From the Sector

On the occasion of the 15-year anniversary of the inaugural Global Fashion Summit, Global Fashion Agenda (GFA) has released a special edition of the Fashion CEO Agenda  — a strategic resource designed to steer fashion organisations towards achieving a net positive industry by 2050. In line with the 2024 theme of Global Fashion Summit, ‘Unlocking the Next Level’, this year’s Fashion CEO Agenda presents five pivotal opportunities for fashion executives and the industry at large to unlock transformative impact for people and planet.

In the 15 years since the inception of Global Fashion Summit in 2009, sustainability has evolved from a peripheral concern to a central focus in the fashion business landscape, prompting significant strides across the industry. Despite this progress, the alarming escalation of global warming and exponential rise in clothing production demand urgent and collective action from fashion industry leaders.

Unlocking the next level of positive impact necessitates a comprehensive understanding of interdependencies and system-wide solutions. The 2024 edition of the Fashion CEO Agenda aims to empower fashion leaders and the wider industry to embrace five key opportunities:

• Operationalising Sustainability
• Redefining Growth
• Activating Consumers
• Prioritising People
• Mobilising Based on Materiality

Drawing from the five priorities of the Fashion CEO Agenda — Respectful and Secure Work Environments, Better Wage Systems, Resource Stewardship, Smart Material Choices, and Circular Systems — this special edition highlights five cross-cutting opportunities that will help achieve the next level of progress on these priorities.

Tailored for fashion brands, retailers, and producers, this edition of the Fashion CEO Agenda differs from previous editions as it focuses on challenging norms and amplifying efforts, and serves as a crucial inflection point for the industry to foster positive outcomes for both society and the environment. By upholding the rights of workers, championing diversity and inclusivity, redefining success metrics, and reshaping growth paradigms, profound transformation is possible.
 
Federica Marchionni, CEO, Global Fashion Agenda, says: “The Fashion CEO Agenda 2024 aims to help leaders to shift their mindset, providing clear unlocks for embracing the challenges for future proofing their businesses and operations. I urgently encourage leaders to work closely with cross-functional teams, use empathy, and a values-based approach that prioritises the planet and the well-being of the people. By doing so, we secure the foundation of our businesses and deliver not only financial returns but also positive impact on the world around us.”

Through renowned events, impact programmes, and thought leadership publications, GFA consistently convenes industry pioneers, shares tangible case studies, disseminates best practices, and highlights practical tools. While recognising the enduring utility of these resources, stakeholders are now encouraged to build upon existing insights and embrace increasingly sophisticated, holistic, and human-centric opportunities to unlock the next level of industry transformation across the entire value chain.

The Fashion CEO Agenda 2024 is an openly accessible resource and available to download at the GFA’s website

The Supervisory Board of Lenzing AG appointed Dr. Walter Bickel as a member of the Managing Board and Chief Transformation Officer of Lenzing AG with effect from April 15, 2024 until December 31, 2025. The experienced manager will strengthen the Lenzing Managing Board and will be responsible for the further development and implementation of the performance program. Lenzing AG’s existing performance program was successfully initiated by the Managing Board in autumn 2023 and focuses on positive free cash flow, strengthened sales and margin growth, and sustainable cost excellence. The appointment of a separate member of the Managing Board for the performance program underlines its importance for the economic recovery of Lenzing AG and will make a significant contribution to achieving the goals. In addition, this ensures that the existing Managing Board can devote all the necessary resources to its core tasks in sales, operations and finances.

Dr. Walter Bickel is an expert in implementing yield increase programs. He has decades of leadership experience in management consulting and in leading positions in industrial companies. As a member of top management, he has successfully supported comprehensive performance programs at companies such as KUKA, Treofan and Syntegon. At Lenzing, Walter Bickel will further advance and accelerate the performance program, which has already made important contributions to improving earnings, and tap into additional performance improvement potential aiming for a significant sustainable increase of Lenzing’s earning power and competitiveness.

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, announced three recipients for the INDA Lifetime Service Award and Lifetime Technical Achievement Awards. David Powling, Paul Latten, and Arnold Wilkie are being recognized for their key contributions to the advancement of the nonwovens industry and INDA.

David Powling and Paul Latten will receive their awards at the World of Wipes® (WOW) International Conference, June 18th beginning at 4:30 pm
Arnold Wilkie will receive his award at the RISE® Conference, October 1st at 4:30 pm.

The Award recipients are:

David Powling
David Powling has worked for Kimberly-Clark Corporation for nearly 25 years and has been a contributor to the Wipes Task Force and Technical Committees at INDA and EDANA for over 15 years. Powling served as Chairman of the INDA Wipes Task Force from 2009-2013. His work on these committees include developing the first and second edition of the Flushability Guidance Document (GD) and he was later instrumental in the roll out of the third and fourth edition GDs. Throughout this time, Powling coordinated activities with Kimberly-Clark Corporation to provide critical supporting data, as these flushability test protocols were developed.

Powling has been actively involved in collection studies where he was key in framing the work packages of those studies, collating and analyzing the data, and drafting reports. These collection studies include: Moraga, CA (advisor); Maine – Part #1 and Part #2 (hands-on); Jacksonville (hands-on); and the Northern and Southern California studies in 2023, which combined, was the largest study to date. Powling led the charge in the California study and was personally involved in identifying 1,745 samples.

Powling has been a key technical contributor to the INDA Government Relation efforts that has resulted in labelling regulations in multiple U.S. states. He has also been an active participant in efforts to develop an ISO standard for flushable products.  In this effort, he was a test method sub-team leader during the preparation of the proposed ISO standard responsible for organizing appendices of existing flushability methodologies. Additionally, Powling has been awarded, or has pending, 25+ U.S. patents, including many covering the development of dispersible wet wipes.

Paul Latten
Paul Latten has been an active member of the nonwoven and fiber industries for over 35 years. Most recently he has led innovation at Southeast Nonwovens, commercializing more than 75 new nonwoven products per year. Prior to joining Southeast Nonwovens, Latten held senior leadership positions with Basofil, Consolidated Fibers, Invista, and KoSa (and Trevira and Hoechst Celanese precursors to KoSa.)

Latten has a successful career of reinvigorating company R&D efforts by instilling a focus on customer-centric innovation. He is an inventor of record for a number of patents and pending applications. Latten has given numerous presentations on innovative nonwoven materials, at events such as INDA’s World of Wipes® (WOW) International Conference, RISE® (Research, Innovation & Science for Engineered Fabrics), the VISION International Conference, and the Converting and Bonding (CAB) Conference.

His recent innovations have been diverse in scope and include nonwovens for use in hydrogen fuel cells, moisture detection media, proprietary wipe designs, and natural fiber-based packaging. Aside from new fiber and nonwoven products, Latten has championed process innovation that has resulted in tangible output gains that broadened the market opportunity for his current and prior companies.

Latten’s portfolio of innovations has spanned across the nonwoven markets, often involving wetlaid and drylaid nonwovens. These include materials for moisture detection, synthetic papers, fuel cell cathodes, protective covers for treats, melamine nonwovens for surface treatment, and the development of binder fibers. His work also touched upon disposable hygiene applications entailing dry-laid web containing hollow synthetic fibers to improve absorbent core fluid uptake.

Latten has been a board member of INDA for multiple terms and served as Chairman in 2008-2010. Additionally, he has contributed to many INDA conference planning committees, helping drive the success of these events.

Arnold Wilkie
Arnold Wilkie has a distinguished career in advancing yarn, fiber, and nonwoven technologies since 1970. Since 1988, he has been President and Owner of Hills, Inc. where he has sustained their innovative culture. Wilkie has over 40 patents and applications covering yarns, bicomponent fibers, ultra-fine fibers, nanofibers, dissolvable filaments, meltblown nonwovens, and polymer processing innovations. He established Hills as a leading innovator in bicomponent fiber nonwovens and in the equipment to produce these materials. During Wilkie’s time leading Hills, their pilot capabilities have become well-known and highly regarded for enabling material innovations.

Many of his patents pertain to the development of equipment solutions that enable the production of complex bi- and multi-component fiber structures. These solutions include the method of forming a continuous filament spun-laid web, the method and apparatus for producing polymer fibers and fabrics including multiple polymer components, the method and apparatus for controlling airflow in a fiber extrusion system, and controlling the dissolution of dissolvable polymer components in plural component fibers.

Arnold Wilkie, President, Hills, Inc., earned his bachelor’s degree in Mechanical Engineering from the University of Tennessee and an MBA from the University of West Florida. He is a licensed Professional Engineer in Florida, and has been engaged in the synthetic fibers industry since 1970. The first 17 years were with the Monsanto Company, where he held positions in Fiber Process Engineering, Fiber Product R&D, and Product Management. Since 1988, he has been a majority Owner and President of Hills, Inc., a 52-year-old company located in West Melbourne, Florida, specializing in the development, manufacture, and supply of advanced custom fiber extrusion equipment. Wilkie has been involved with and supported The Nonwovens Institute, since its founding in 1991 as the Nonwovens Cooperative Research Center (NCRC), with Hills joining as a Member in 2001

Victoria Beckham's new collection for Mango, which coincides with the brand’s 40th anniversary, will go on sale internationally on April 23th, 2024.
The collaboration is part of Mango’s new 2024-26 Strategic Plan Elevate lever, which aims to reinforce the company’s differential value proposition based on aspirationalism, quality and its unique style.

Mango is teaming up with Victoria Beckham to launch a new capsule collection, which will be available internationally on April 23, 2024. Victoria Beckham x Mango has been designed by Victoria Beckham and reflects the essence of the designer's eponymous label, considered the perfect blend of classic British luxury with a subtle contemporary twist, as well as the shared values of both fashion brands, such as quality and femininity.

The new collection, which coincides with Mango's 40th anniversary, is the latest in a series of collaborations with other brands, artists and talents including SIMONMILLER, Camille Charrière, and Pernille Teisbaek. It follows the latest edition in Mango’s Capsule collection, a collection of eventwear for woman differentiated by the quality of its materials and finishes, which was released in March 2024 after being launched in 2023.

Mango’s collaboration with Victoria Beckham is part of the new Strategic Plan 2024-26, which aims to generate total turnover of more than 4 billion euros by 2026 through a differentiated value proposition, strong expansion drive, and improving sales in existing stores and online channels, as presented by the company last March.

The collaboration supports Elevate, one of the core pillars of the Plan. Elevate focuses on promoting a differential value proposition in all lines through aspirationalism, quality and a unique style designed in Barcelona, with excellent customer service. Since its inception, Mango has a very clear DNA and its own design and style proposal, whose main attribute is a positioning of superior quality to its competitors.

Toros Greenhalgh becomes General Manager of the new KARL MAYER subsidiary in Türkiye

In October 2023, the KARL MAYER GROUP established its own site in Bursa, Türkiye, thus increasing its presence in one of its most important markets. KARL MAYER TURKEY will meet increasing customer demands for after-sales service, spare parts (Care Solutions), and academy, in the sectors of warp knitting and warp preparation, while KARL MAYER’s long-standing regional representative ERKO focuses on machine sales.

Toros Greenhalgh was appointed General Manager of KARL MAYER TURKEY on February 1st of this year. Holding a degree in mechanical engineering and materials science from the University of Birmingham, he comes with experience in the fields of industrial plant construction management, renewable energy technologies, and the distribution of medical devices. For the past seven years he has been active in the sector of textile machinery through ERKO with particular focus on KARL MAYER machine sales, service, and spare parts.

As part of the company's international expansion, the growing French market is becoming increasingly important. This is why the textile company is now broadening its organisation: since mid-October 2023 Maike Bruns joined the sales team in France on a permanent basis.

The communications graduate has already lived in Paris and most recently promoted sales and market development in an Amsterdam start-up in the healthtech sector.

At Dibella, her focus will be on representing the company on the French market, supporting the existing team and jointly expanding the French customer base.

The advisory board of A+A in Düsseldorf, an international trade fair for safety, security and health at work, will soon be under new leadership. Stefan Brück, CEO and Chairman of the Board at UVEX SAFETY GROUP GmbH & Co. KG, Fürth, who has been a member of the A+A advisory board for 7 years, will be the new Chairman. In this position he succeeds Klaus Bornack, Managing Director at Bornack GmbH & Co. KG, who successfully headed the advisory board for 12 years. The handover of office will take place during A+A 2023.

Stefan Brück has developed the Uvex Safety Group into one of the innovation leaders in the international PPE industry. He will assume his future task with over 30 years of industry experience under his belt and is already looking forward to the new challenge.

“My short and medium-term aim is to move such themes as sustainability but also new technologies and innovations even more into focus in occupational safety. This also includes digital products and solutions such as AI, Virtual Reality or Augmented Reality applications,” explains Stefan Brück and goes on to say: “I look forward to contributing to develop A+A further as the world-leading trade fair and to increasing the social, economic and ecological relevance of PPE on a global scale all year round.”

“Grow Your Couture” by Piero D'angelo, the winning project of the IMAGINING SUSTAINABLE FASHION (ISFA) competition was announced during a webinar broadcast on 18 May attended by Giusy Bettoni CEO of C.L.A.S.S. Eco Hub, Anna Detheridge President of Connecting Cultures and ISFA ambassadors Valentina Suarez, co-founder and CEO of Universo Mola and Vishal Tolambia winner of the 2022 edition.
 
Piero D'angelo's project was the best among the 110 proposals received after the international call for proposals launched on 27 October 2022.
 
Piero D'Angelo, 36, a graduate in Fashion Womenswear from the Royal College of Art in London and in Textile Design from Central Saint Martins, is a Fashion and Textile Designer with a research focus on biotechnology in the fashion industry. In 2022 he founded his Fashion & Textile Design studio experimenting with a multidisciplinary approach on the importance of natural materials and Biodesign. From 2018 to 2022 Piero D'Angelo was a resident and then Product Researcher & Developer at Open Cell (Biotech Research Park), a biotech start-up community in London. He was awarded the Dorothy Waxman Textile Design Prize in 2015 and semi-finalist for the LVMH Prize in 2020.
 
In his communication project, 'Grow Your Own Couture' D'Angelo imagines a future scenario where it will be possible to grow one's own clothes through living organisms such as lichens that are able to absorb pollution. But the project also wants to communicate a return to nature and above all care and protection towards it. In fact, the user is not simply a user of fashion, but through a kit is part of the process of growth, care and creation of the garment, thus abandoning the traditional paradigms of fashion. The project wants to completely re-imagine the way fashion could be designed, produced and used, proposing not only a product, but also a system that wants to collaborate with nature instead of polluting or exploiting it.

Lectra’s Annual Shareholders’ Meeting held on April 28 appointed two new Directors, Karine Calvet and Pierre-Yves Roussel for a four-year term. They both will become members of the Strategic Committee, replacing Bernard Jourdan, Lead Director, and Anne Binder. Karine Calvet also becomes a member of the Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) Committee.

With its new strategic roadmap for 2023-2025, the Group aims to use its expansion – mainly due to the acquisition of Gerber in June 2021 – to accelerate its growth, significantly increase the share of SaaS in its sales, and seize opportunities for external growth. Supported by the commitment of its staff and recognized by its customers, Lectra will also be at the forefront of a more sustainable future.

Karine Calvet is Vice-President EMEA responsible for Partners at AVEVA, a subsidiary of Schneider Electric. She began her career at CGI in 1993 and has spent most of it in IT: sixteen years in services companies, seven years in telecommunications, and six years in software. She has had leadership roles in telecommunications environments for leading global companies (CGI, Capgemini, Alcatel-Lucent, Verizon, Microsoft and currently Schneider-Aveva), focusing on digital transformation. Karine Calvet served as Head of Industry at Capgemini, then managed worldwide teams at Alcatel-Lucent as Vice-President, Eastern Europe then at Verizon as Managing Director. Her time at Microsoft strengthened her software expertise, her direct and indirect channels skills, and her experience in IT services. In the last two years, as Vice-President, Southern Europe then Vice-President, Partners and Alliances at Schneider-Aveva, Karine Calvet has worked closely with industrial companies to help them meet the challenges of operational efficiency, safety, cost management, sustainability and decarbonization by taking advantage of digitalization.

Pierre-Yves Roussel has been CEO of leading US fashion label Tory Burch since January 2019. He began his career in investment banking with HSBC in Brussels, then at Morgan Stanley in London. In 1990, he joined management consulting firm McKinsey & Company in France, where he led numerous consultancy assignments in the fashion, luxury, distribution and media sectors in Europe and Asia. In 1998, he was elected Partner then, in 2004, Global Senior Partner (Director). In 2004, he joined the LVMH Group Executive Committee as Executive Vice-President, Strategy and Operations, reporting directly to Bernard Arnault. In 2006, he was appointed Chairman and CEO of LVMH Fashion Group, one of the LVMH Group’s five branches of operational activity. From 2006 to 2018, he was Chairman of the Board of the brands Céline, Givenchy, Loewe, Kenzo, Pucci, Rossimoda, Marc Jacobs, Donna Karan, Berluti, JW Anderson and Nicolas Kirkwood. He has also been a member on several prestigious fashion juries including Andam, CFDA Fashion Incubator, and the LVMH Fashion Prize. He was a member of the management committee of the Chambre Syndicale de la Mode et de la Couture from 2010 to 2018. In 2018, he left the LVMH Group to take up the post of CEO – based in New York – of the company Tory Burch. Founded by his wife in 2004, the private family-run company has more than 350 stores worldwide, 13 retail websites, and nearly 5,000 employees.

Effective March 1st, Ib Jensen takes over from Jan Secher as Chief Executive Officer of Perstorp Group, a specialty chemicals company headquartered in Malmö, Sweden and since 2022 part of PETRONAS Chemicals Group Berhad (PCG).

Ib Jensen is a highly respected senior industry executive with a long career as CFO and extensive experience from M&A and integration of acquired companies, something that will be required in the next phase for Perstorp.

After more than 9 successful years as the CEO of Perstorp Group, Jan Secher has decided to step down. This decision is based on a personal direction set more than a year ago, prior to the acquisition by PCG, allowing for a full search process to be conducted for his replacement. Ib Jensen has been CFO of Perstorp for the past year and was considered the most qualified candidate based on his knowledge of the company, long term experience of the specialty chemicals industry and high level of appreciation in both Perstorp as well as in PCG. Previous experience include CFO and executive roles within Finance and IT at companies such as Arxada, Lonza, Syngenta, Danisco and LEGO.

Jan Secher remains in the CEO role until March 1st and will thereafter serve as an advisor to the new CEO and the Chairman, focusing on strategy and transferring external relationships. Monica Jönsson, currently deputy CFO, will take on the role as CFO when Ib Jensen assumes the position as CEO. PCG is fully committed to the Executive Leadership Team of Perstorp and expects the team to continue the successful integration work as well as dealing with the volatile global macro situation.