From the Sector

A focus on customer service, aligned with the drive to constantly innovate, has long ensured that the member companies of TMAS – the Swedish texile machinery manufacturers’ association – stay well ahead of the curve.

“All of the Swedish textile machinery companies are doing really well in major markets such as Europe, China, India and the USA,” says TMAS Secretary General Therese Premler-Andersson. “They are now gathering forces to prepare for the most important show – ITMA 2019 in Barcelona in June. I expect to see new players and partnerships as we enter the industry 4.0 era for real. We are ready to display an even higher degree of the real time monitoring of processes, automation, flexible customisation, and the incorporation of robots into production lines.  Our customers expect a lot of in terms of knowledge and our ability to customise and offer turnkey solutions.”

The forward-looking attitude of the Swedish companies is perhaps best summed up by Reimar Westerlind, the owner, since 1961, of ACG Gruppen.
At the age of 90, Reimar still travels to his office every day to oversee the operations of the diverse companies operating under the ACG umbrella.
“Everything now is about automation and digitisation,” he says. “We have to be on that track or we will be lost – innovate or die.”

Robotics
One ACG Gruppen company moving rapidly forward with new innovations in this area is ACG Kinna, which at ITMA 2019 will be providing dramatic live demonstrations of its new robotic pillow filling system.
This has the ability to fill and finish some 3,840 pillows per eight-hour shift, which is a considerable improvement on what is currently possible with existing systems, resulting in significant savings in both labour and energy for busy home textile businesses.

At ITMA 2019, Eton will be demonstrating a complete material handling solution with advanced software providing real-time information covering every aspect of the process.
“Our systems are a natural fit with the major Industry 4.0 networked manufacturing plants that are now being constructed worldwide for sectors such as the garment and home textiles manufacturing and automotive industries,” says Eton’s Sales and Commercial Director Roger Ryrlén.

Sensors
Advanced senor developments are playing a large part in moving many areas of the textile industry forward too.
Eltex of Sweden, for example, is achieving considerable success with its yarn fault detection and tension monitoring systems across a range of sectors, including the tufting of carpets, the creeling of woven materials and even the production of woven reinforcements for the composites industry.

At successive ITMA shows, IRO AB has also consistently introduced new milestones in the field of yarn feeding technology for weaving machines, and ITMA 2019 will be no exception.
“Following significant investment in our R&D capabilities, we have been making great progress in further boosting the efficiency and performance of our expanding X3 range,” says IRO AB Managing Director and Chairman of TMAS Mikael Äremann. “I can’t remember a time since the 1980s when we had so many new innovations to unveil at an ITMA, and I’m greatly looking forward to the positive response to them we are anticipating in Barcelona this June.”

Resource savings
ITMA 2019 will meanwhile see the launch of TexCoat G4 – the next generation of Baldwin Technology’s non-contact precision application system for fabric finishing. The TexCoat G4 enables a continuously high-quality and productive textile finishing process with zero chemistry waste and minimised water and energy consumption.
The non-contact spray technology brings a range of advantages including single or double-sided application,  the elimination of Foulard bath contamination, low wet pick-up levels leading to the elimination of drying steps, zero chemistry waste in changeovers of chemistry, colour or fabric, and the possibility of batch reporting, visibility of pad loading, chemical usage etc.

Other TMAS companies exhibiting in Barcelona include Texo AB, whose wide-width weaving looms make the belts for machines on which half of the world’s paper is made, ES-Automatex, which specialises in bespoke automation concepts and Svegea, a company leading the field in a number colarette machines and cutting and slitting equipment.

“At the last ITMA in 2015 in Milan, there was much talk about Industry 4.0 technologies but certainly from the perspective of TMAS, ITMA 2019 will be the place for concrete solutions as to how data and the new tools we have available can be exploited to the full,” says Therese Premler-Andersson. “There is already much more networking between the companies, with software very much the enabler and common interfaces bringing ideas closer together. We are greatly looking forward to further exchanges of ideas when meeting with customers old and new in Barcelona.”

The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) held its 16th Annual Meeting March 19-21 in Washington, DC.  Elected as NCTO officers for 2019 are:

• Chairman – Leib Oehmig, CEO of Glen Raven, Inc.
• Mr. Oehmig is CEO of Glen Raven, Inc., based in Glen Raven, North Carolina.  Glen Raven is an innovative leader in textile research and development, dying, spinning, weaving and finishing, and distribution and logistics.
• Vice Chairman – David Roberts, CEO of CAP Yarns, Inc.
• Mr. Roberts is CEO of CAP Yarns, Inc., based in Clover, South Carolina.  CAP Yarns is a specialty yarn manufacturer and a leader in developing unique yarns for the knitting and weaving industry.

NCTO is a Washington, DC-based trade association that represents domestic textile manufacturers.  

• U.S. employment in the textile supply chain was 594,147 in 2018.  
• The value of shipments for U.S. textiles and apparel was $76.8 billion in 2018.  
• U.S. exports of fiber, textiles and apparel were $30.1 billion in 2018.  
• Capital expenditures for textile and apparel production totaled $2.0 billion in 2017, the last year for which data is available.

Geringes Gewicht, Verzicht auf Kabel und eine hochautomatisierte Fertigung maximal individualisierter Bauteile: Die gedruckte Elektronik bietet der Luftfahrtbranche viele Vorteile. Auf dem LOPEC Kongress 2019 geben Dennis Hahn vom Flugzeugbauer Airbus und Max Seißler vom Beratungs- und Technologieunternehmen Altran einen Überblick über die besonderen Anforderungen an fliegende Bauteile. Gemeinsam arbeiten sie am Standort Hamburg mit gedruckter Elektronik für die Flugzeugkabine. Im Interview erläutern sie die Herausforderungen und Visionen.

F: Seit wann interessiert sich die Luftfahrtbranche für gedruckte Elektronik?

Dennis Hahn: Hochschulforscher haben schon vor 20 Jahren erkannt, dass gedruckte Elektronik für den Flugzeugbau interessant ist und ihre Ergebnisse bei Airbus vorgestellt. Die Materialien entsprachen damals aber noch nicht den extrem hohen Sicherheitsanforderungen der Luftfahrt. Aber seitdem hat sich viel getan. Zusammen mit zwei Fraunhofer-Instituten und Altran haben wir Demonstratoren entwickelt und gemeinsam mit Altran weisen wir gerade nach, dass die gedruckte Elektronik reif ist für Anwendungen in der Luftfahrt.

F: Welche konkreten Anforderungen müssen die Materialien erfüllen?

Dennis Hahn: Wir untersuchen zum Beispiel die Entflammbarkeit. Dafür werden die Folien, auf die wir die Elektronik drucken, für 15 Sekunden über eine offene Flamme gehalten, wieder entfernt und müssen sich, wenn sie Feuer gefangen haben, innerhalb von 14 Sekunden selbst löschen – ein harter Test für Kunststoffe. Wie sich eine Kombination aus Folie, Tinte und Coating verhält, können selbst unsere Brandexperten nicht vorhersagen. Deswegen mussten wir zahlreiche Materialien testen.

Max Seißler: Wir haben zwar von Anfang an versucht Risiken zu minimieren und Materialien verwendet, die bereits luftfahrtzertifiziert sind. Aber wenn wir diese Werkstoffe für andere Anwendungen und in neuen Kombinationen einsetzen, kommen Tests hinzu. Und die Entflammbarkeit ist nur ein Thema. Die Bauteile müssen beständig sein gegen Feuchtigkeit und Kondenswasser, gegen aggressive Reinigungsmittel, Insektizide, extreme Temperaturen, Vibrationen und mehr.

Dirk Büscher, Inhaber der Marc Cain Agency Düsseldorf, wurde zum neuen Vorstandsmitglied des Fashion Net Düsseldorf e.V. gewählt. Neben Klaus Brinkmann (bugatti GmbH), Angelika Firnrohr (Geschäftsführerin Fashion Net) und Uwe Kerkmann (Wirtschaftsministerium NRW) ist mit Dirk Büscher eine weitere Person aus der Modebranche im Vorstand vertreten, dessen Erfahrungen den Verein bereichern.

Nach seiner Station als Area Sales Manager und Key Account Manager bei René Lezard, ist Dirk Büscher seit über 14 Jahren erfolgreicher Inhaber der Marc Cain Agency Düsseldorf. Sein lokaler Bezug zur Stadt Düsseldorf und sein beeindruckendes Know-How über die Modebranche machten ihn zum geeigneten Kandidaten für diese Position.

„Ich habe die wichtige Arbeit von Fashion Net e.V. immer schon sehr gern unterstützt, da ich es richtig finde, den Modestandort so umfassend strategisch zu positionieren und so viele Aktivitäten umzusetzen. Als Vorstand werde ich beruflich wie auch persönlich mein Bestes geben, um die Themen der Landeshauptstadt Düsseldorf in Sachen Mode noch mehr zu pushen.“, so Dirk Büscher zu seiner neuen Position als Vorstandsmitglied.

Dirk Büscher ersetzt das ehemalige Vorstandsmitglied Philipp Kronen, welcher nach neun erfolgreichen Jahren leider aus persönlichen Gründen aus dem Vorstand ausgeschieden ist. Das Fashion Net Düsseldorf dankt Herrn Kronen für die Zusammenarbeit.

Feb. 2019 Event Targets Laundry Execs, Upper Management Teams Serving Hospitality and Hotel Lodging Markets

Anthony Melchiorri, the renowned hospitality expert, creator and host of The Travel Channel shows Hotel Impossible, Hotel Impossible: Five Star Secrets and Hotel Impossible: Showdown once thought of opening his own hotel laundry when he was fresh out of the Air Force and entering the hospitality industry. Attendees at TRSA’s inaugural Hospitality Conference, Feb. 20-21, 2019, will hear about that and more when Melchiorri delivers the keynote address at the Walt Disney World’s Coronado Springs Resort in Lake Buena Vista, FL. Melchiorri’s 20 years of hospitality industry experience and resultant successes has provided a wealth of insights and actionable steps that he will share during his presentation, How to Build Your Personal Brand.

TRSA has added the Hospitality Conference to its growing professional-development opportunities in response to member requests for enrichment specific to this rapidly-growing market. Attendees for this event, which is targeted to laundry executives and their upper management teams who serve the hospitality and hotel lodging markets, will benefit from opportunities to build skills, learn best practices from industry leaders and spend time collaborating and sharing information. Agenda highlights include these general session topics:

• Contracting with Group Purchasing Organizations (GPOs)
• Hospitality Market Research
• Understanding Hospitality Textiles

Panel discussions pay professional growth dividends in the form of networking and information-sharing. The TRSA Hospitality Conference’s agenda includes these interactive opportunities:

• CEO Panel: Hospitality Market Trends
• Customer Perspectives: Benefits and Challenges of In-House (OPLs) and Outsourcings
• Making the Case for Outsourcing Laundry Services and Closing In-House or On-Premise Laundries (OPLs)

Day two of the agenda will consist of tours at these state-of-the art central Florida plants: Walt Disney World Textile Services Resort Linen Plant and Hotelier Linen Service. Following the plant tours, management teams will offer debriefing sessions that allow for comparison of operations, thereby enriching the discussion of alternative approaches to similar tasks among conference attendees.

Early-bird registration pricing for this event is open now through Jan. 11, 2019. An additional 10% off registration for three or more who register from the same company is also available. Visit www.trsa.org/hospitality for additional information. The full TRSA professional development calendar for 2019 can be viewed at www.trsa.org/calendar.

ERIC PIERREJEAN, CEO OF JEC GROUP

Mr. Eric PIERREJEAN, who joined the company in January, has been appointed Chief Executive Officer, succeeding to Mrs. Frédérique MUTEL. He will be in charge of the further development of the company after two decades of growth under Mrs. MUTEL leadership, dedicated to the development and the promotion of the composite materials industry. Before joining JEC Group, Eric PIERREJEAN was Division General Manager at Comexposium from 2011 to 2017. Prior to this, he spent much of his career in sales and marketing positions, spending more than 15 years in the automotive sector (BMW Group, Land Rover) as well as in the sports goods industry (Nike).

ADELINE LARROQUE, EVENTS DIRECTOR FOR EMEA

Mrs. Adeline LARROQUE joins JEC Group as Show Director JEC World and EMEA Events with more than 15 years of Global work experience as she has worked in several countries such as USA, UK, China, India, Qatar and UAE where she has developed a strong skill set in exhibitions and events management. After a successful experience at Reed Exhibitions France and China managing numerous exhibitions in the Aerospace, Material, Security, Maritime, Logistics, Construction and Medical industries, she then worked for Qatar Tourism Authority as Head of Exhibitions driving growth for the Doha Jewellery Show, Qatar Motor Show and Women Fashion exhibitions. Lately, she worked for the Events division of the Daily Mail Group supervising the Abu Dhabi International Petroleum Exhibition and Conference as Event Director.

The Mechanical Engineering Industry Association (VDMA) has awarded two prizes to graduates of the Institut für Textiltechnik (ITA) of RWTH Aachen University - the dissertation prize and the creativity prize of the Walter Reiners Foundation of German Textile Machinery 2018. ITA alumnus Dr Benjamin Weise was awarded the dissertation prize for the development of novel fibres for textile charge storage devices. For their work on a guide to 4D product design, Jan Merlin Abram and Aalon Tal (both ITA students) were honoured with the creativity prize. The dissertation prize is endowed with €5,000 whilst the creativity prize contains a one-year scholarship of €250 per month. Peter D. Dornier, President of the Walter Reiners Foundation and Chairman of the Management Board of Lindauer DORNIER, presented the awards on the 18 September 2018 at the 18th Textile Machinery Forum in the Digital Capability Center in Aachen, Germany.

Graphene revolutionizes all-in-one - supercaps, reduction of terahertz radiation and antistatics

In his dissertation "Development of graphene-modified multifilament yarns for the production of textile charge storage devices", laureate Dr Benjamin Weise developed novel fibres made of polyamide and graphene and further processed them into textile surfaces. The newly developed polyamide graphene fibres are featuring a multitude of advantages:

• Due to their high performance in the charge storage area, they are predestined for use in double-layer capacitors, so-called super capacitors, or supercaps in short. Compared to lithium-ion batteries, supercaps offer significantly higher power density and a longer lifetime as no chemical reactions are taking place. towing to the graphene platelets in the filaments, it is now possible for the first time to integrate a charge storage device directly into a textile without having to sew in a rechargeable battery. This new fibre is therefore suitable for prospective use in smart textiles, for instance in a textile defibrillator.
• The new graphene-modified polyamide fibres can attenuate inident terahertz radiation up to 25 % of their original intensity. Terahertz radiation, for example, offers transmission rates of 100 Mbit/sec and is therefore of high interest for high-performance wireless communication. However, the radiation could damage sensible electronics as in aircrafts if this technology will be used widespread. Consequently, the shielding of the radiation is of high importance, e.g. in the form of fibre composite components in the aircraft, which protect the on-board electronics.
• As the fibres are showcasing a dissipative electrical conductivity, personal protective equipment is another prospective field of application.  

The development of a pilot process for graphene-modified fibres and the production of textile demonstrators are novel and disruptive attainments of Dr Weise’s PhD thesis and the reason for the award ceremony to him. Due to its outstanding properties, the European Union is funding research on graphene within the frame of the "Graphene Flagship" with an overall budget of one billion Euro (source: http://graphene-flagship.eu/project/Pages/About-Graphene-Flagship.aspx).

Modular product design of 4D products is now possible in simplified form

How can three-dimensional products change their shape over time and thus become "four-dimensional"? The students Jan Merlin Abram and Aalon Tal provide answers to this question in their project work "Leitfaden zur Auslegung hybrider morphender Textilien am Beispiel eines Scharniers" (Guidelines for the Design of Hybrid Morphing Textiles Using the Example of a Hinge), for which they were awarded the creativity prize. In their work, the students offer a guideline for the development of a four-dimensional textile from the idea to the demonstrator. Four-dimensional textiles, for example, consist of a hybrid material of elastic textile on which three-dimensional structures are printed. The fourth dimension describes the change in shape and/or a property over a defined period of time (= morphing).  This change is caused by external influences such as light and heat.

Every year, the Foundation of the German Textile Machinery awards prizes for the best dissertation, diploma or master's thesis and the creativity prize for the smartest student research project. Further prizes were awarded to Eric Otto, ITM Dresden, and Susanne Fischer, Reutlingen University.

Frédérique MUTEL has just been promoted to the rank of Officer in the Order of the Legion of Honour by decree of the President of the French Republic, on 13 July 2018.

Frédérique MUTEL dedicated herself to advanced technologies at Dassault Group Sogitec, Accenture, Thales and Blenheim before joining the company JEC, recently created to develop composite materials, in 1997.

From 1997 to 2018, Frédérique MUTEL, President of JEC Group, made a major contribution to the composites industry. Her pioneering and unifying work helped to secure the international exposure of this industry.

Contact Frédérique MUTEL
Email: frederique.mutel@orange.fr
Tel: +33 6 80 70 78 71

Bally, the historic Swiss luxury brand is pleased to announce the appointment of two key figures to its executive team, completing the process of strategic redevelopment begun last year with the transfer of the Creative, Merchandising and Marketing offices from London to its new showroom in Milan.

Effective immediately, Eva Quirrenbach joins Bally as Chief Marketing Officer following a term in New York as Vice President of Global Brand Marketing at Tory Burch, having previously occupied strategic roles within the Tod’s Group in both Italy and the United States. Eva is a recognised expert in all aspects of international branding and marketing within the luxury sector, and with her proven understanding of consumer behaviour, she played an integral role in the development and acceleration of the digital footprint and in supporting global brand development at Tory Burch.

“Eva is an excellent addition to the Bally team. The combination of a consolidated experience and understanding of luxury brands along with her background driving the strategic development of successful global projects make her the ideal leader to drive Bally's commitment to unified commerce on a global level".
Frédéric De Narp, Bally Group CEO

Bally has moved to a three-pronged regional strategy and as such is also pleased to announce the promotion of Silvia Onofri to a new role as CEO for the EMEA region, in addition to her current role as Vice President of Global Wholesale. During her time in Bally, Silvia has obtained outstanding results entering top tier multi-brand doors around the world and increasing Bally's footprint in Travel Retail to make the brand a global leader in the field.

Silvia has extensive experience in the global fashion and luxury industry, having first joined the Bally team 10 years ago, following key marketing roles in Bulgari.

“Silvia has the unique benefit of intimately understanding the Bally brand and it’s DNA, and having proven experience in forging new relationships with the world’s leading retailers and their customers. With this invaluable expertise in hand, I am confident that she will infuse the EMEA Retail division with enthusiasm, professionalism and unique market insights to take Bally to the next level in these crucial markets” -
Frédéric De Narp.

The arrival of Eva Quirrenbach and the promotion of Silvia Onofri are part of Bally Group CEO Frédéric de Narp’s ongoing strategic vision to infuse Bally’s prestigious brand identity with heightened dynamism, appeal and allure.
Both roles report directly to Bally’s Group CEO, Frederic de Narp.

On Thursday, March 22nd, C.L.A.S.S., with support from the Council of Fashion  Designers  of  America  (CFDA),  hosted  an  intimate  gathering  of  fashion’s  industry  leaders, educators, designers and members of the press to celebrate An Evening of Smart Innovation.

The event was beautifully orchestrated by Ginger Design, an exceptional team of Italian creatives, filmmakers, food and  textile  designers  as  a  way  to  create  a  unique  immersive  experience  telling  the  story  of  C.L.A.S.S.’ visionary journey. Thus, providing guests with an awareness and chance to embrace knowledge related to four key areas that set new standards for fashion vital to C.L.A.S.S.’ business philosophy:  Heritage, Smart Innovation, Circular Economy and Design Responsibility.

Imagination and responsibility at the forefront of the event, guests entered to view a film by Cristina Picchi that  represented harmony  between the various  phases  of  the  textile  process  and  the  cycles  of  natural elements.

The piece de resistance was a three-dimensional installation designed by Cécile Feilchenfeldt that  contained  exquisite  knits  allowing  guests  to  walk  through  the area to  inspire creativity and explore the  limitless possibilities using innovative  smart  materials.  So,  with  responsible  design  in  mind  the guests  were  able  to  touch  and  feel  the  luxurious  smart  textiles supported  by  sustainable  credentials  from  Bacx  by  Centro  Seta, Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei, ECOTEC® by Marchi & Fildi, Organic Cotton  Colours,  Re.VerSo™,  ROICA™  by  Asahi  Kasei,  TINTEX Textiles, and Zignone. The new generation of beautiful cottons, rich silks, lush wools and opulent cashmeres showcased throughout the C.L.A.S.S. event currently available to the market.

Giusy Bettoni and the C.L.A.S.S. team from Milan and New  York, as well as several of their partner representatives from around the globe  were  on  hand  to  engage  designers  and  educators  and answer   questions   related   to   smart   materials   and   processes. Designers  and  educators  were  pleased  to  learn  about  the  new C.L.A.S.S. e-commerce site dedicated to emerging designers and fashion  startups,  as  well as  new  details  regarding  C.L.A.S.S. Education  as  a  university   learning  resource,  co-founded   with James  Mendolia,  FIT  Professor,  MFA  Fashion  Design  and  FIT Sustainability Council Member.

Attendees included: Julien Labat, president of Edun and Marilyn Balkaransingh Director of  Fabric  R&D of  Edun, J.R.  Campbell  and  Young  Kim  Thanos of Kent State’s School of Design and Merchandising, Lisa Smilor and Stephanie  Soto of  CFDA,  Nomi  Dale  Kleinman of  FIT,  Susan Easton, founder   of   From   the   Road,   Nicole   Fischelis,   Heron Preston, Luciana Scrutchen of Parsons School of Design and Kay Unger, chair of the Board of Governors for Parsons, among others.