From the Sector

• Organic cotton project with thriving prospects

Dibella is participating in a joint project to promote organic cotton cultivation in India. The project aims to protect organic cultivation through targeted training measures and by paying premiums to small farmers, to support the conversion from conventional to organic cotton, to increase crop yields and at the same time to achieve better fibre quality.

The demand for organically grown organic cotton is growing rapidly, but crop yields are lagging well behind global demand. The Alliance for Sustainable Textiles (Berlin), initiated by Development Minister Dr. Gerd Müller, therefore wants to increase organic cotton volumes for its member companies with practical solutions. In cooperation with the Deutsche Gesellschaft für Internationale Zusammenarbeit (GIZ), it is now promoting a forward-looking project for which Dibella provided the impetus.

"In India, it is mainly micro-farms and village cooperatives that are active in organic cotton cultivation. Conversion of additional land and sustainable management could increase yields and fibre quality of organic cotton. The Chetna Organic initiative, with which we have been working successfully for many years, advises the farmers in these processes. It supports the farmers and village communities with targeted education, training and practical assistance in organic farming, thus preparing the ground for better income and living conditions for the families," says Ralf Hellmann, Managing Director of Dibella.

Several alliance partners - Dibella, Fairtrade Germany, GIZ, Organic Cotton Accelerator (OCA) and Tchibo - have taken the exemplary initiative as an opportunity to promote the cultivation and expansion of organic cotton in India. In cooperation with Chetna Organic, they focus on supporting Indian women's cooperatives, women farmers and families in the production of organic cotton as part of the "Organic Cotton Pilot Project". Tchibo and Fairtrade subsidise micro-farms during the conversion phase of the fields (the fibres are only recognised as organic cotton four years after conversion) and contribute to the provision of GMO-free seeds, which have become a scarce commodity in India. Together with Dibella, they finance training courses that teach the optimal use of natural rainfall as well as efficient, ecological cultivation methods, which subsequently lead to improved fibre quality. In addition, they commit to purchasing Fairtrade organic cotton for many years.

Ralf Hellmann: "The pilot project enables us to expand our Dibella Good Textiles collection because it guarantees us long-term access to fair-trade organic cotton. At the same time, it improves the living conditions of the small-scale farmers and their families. We therefore hope that "Organic Cotton" will also set a precedent in other cotton growing regions and bring organic farming forward in India."

Satzungsgemäß fand am 24. Juni 2021 die 147. ordentliche Generalversammlung der Bremer Baumwollbörse statt. Das alte Präsidium ist auch das neue und wurde in bisheriger Zusammensetzung vom Vorstand wiedergewählt.

Stephanie Silber, Geschäftsführerin der Otto Stadtlander GmbH, bleibt als Präsidentin weiter im Amt, ebenso die Vizepräsidenten Jens D. Lukaczik, geschäftsführender Gesellschafter des Serviceunternehmens Cargo Control Germany GmbH & Co. KG in Bremen, Ernst Grimmelt, geschäftsführender Gesellschafter der Spinnerei und Weberei Velener Textil GmbH in Velen, Nordrhein-Westfalen und Fritz A. Grobien, geschäftsführender Gesellschafter der Albrecht, Müller-Pearse & Co. Trade (GmbH & Co.) KG, Bremen.

Neuwahlen des Vorstands
Während der Generalversammlung fanden die Neuwahlen des Vorstandes statt.
Vizepräsident Fritz A. Grobien, Albrecht, Müller-Pearse & Co. Trade (GmbH & Co.) KG, Bremen, schied turnusgemäß aus dem Vorstand aus und wurde neu in das Gremium gewählt. Auch Jean-Paul Haessig, Asian Cotton Traders PTE Ltd, Singapur, wurde erneut in den Vorstand berufen.

Weitere Mitglieder im Vorstand sind Hannes Drolle, Getzner Textil AG, Bludenz/Österreich, Henning Hammer, Otto Stadtlander GmbH, Bremen, in Shanghai verantwortlich für das Asiengeschäft, Jan Kettelhack, Hch. Kettelhack GmbH + Co. KG, Rheine, Konrad Schröer, Setex-Textil GmbH, Hamminkeln-Dingden, Peter Spoerry, Spoerry 1886 AG, Flums, auch in der Funktion als Vertreter der Schweizer Textilindustrie, Roland Stelzer, Gebr. Elmer & Zweifel GmbH & Co. KG, Bempflingen sowie Axel Trede, Cotton Service International GmbH, Bremen. Als beratendes Mitglied ist Manfred Kern als Repräsentant der Vereinigung Textilindustrie Österreich im Vorstand vertreten.

Präsidentin Stephanie Silber sagte anlässlich der Generalversammlung: „Nach mehr als einem Jahr in der Pandemie zeigt sich: Baumwolle hat sich als resilient erwiesen. Natürlich sind die Auswirkungen der Covid-19 Pandemie nicht spurlos an der Branche vorbei gegangen. Aufträge wurden storniert, Unternehmen kämpfen mit der Insolvenz. Aber durch die gesamte Wertschöpfungskette hindurch haben Menschen an Lösungen gearbeitet und die Innovationskraft der Baumwollindustrie demonstriert. Die Nachfrage hat sich relativ schnell wieder erholt. Dies ist eine gute Basis für die kommende Saison, die hoffentlich unter normaleren Bedingungen stattfinden kann. Aktuell hat die Branche mit der logistischen Situation eine große Herausforderung. Knappe Containerverfügbarkeit und ausgebuchte Schiffsrouten verzögern die globalen Lieferketten weltweit.“

• The Techtextil and Texprocess trade fairs have a positive view of the future and invite the sector to take part at Frankfurt Fair and Exhibition Centre from 21 to 24 June 2022.
• Exhibitors who register well in advance benefit from an early-booking discount.

The dates for the next editions of Techtextil and Texprocess have been set and the leading international trade fairs for technical textiles and nonwovens and for the processing of textile and flexible materials are set to attract exhibitors and trade visitors from all over the world to Frankfurt am Main from 21 to 24 June 2022. Thus, the fairs are shifting the biennial cycle of events from odd to even years, which fits in perfectly with the sector’s international event calendar. Companies that book exhibition space at one of the two trade fairs no later than 31 August 2021 benefit from an early booking discount. “We see the future in a positive light and are confident that we will finally be able to give the sector the opportunity to meet and exchange ideas and information in June 2022. The desire for personal encounters, direct communication and new impressions is growing from day to day”, says Olaf Schmidt, Vice President Textiles and Textile Technologies.

Elgar Straub, Managing Director, VDMA Textile Care, Fabric and Leather Technologies, emphasises that, “Texprocess and Techtextil are the world’s foremost trade fairs for our innovative sector by a large margin. Both events offer customers an unrivalled overview of state-of-the-art innovations and technological developments – and beyond. Particularly when it comes to the latest trends for sustainability and digitalisation, Texprocess and Techtextil in Frankfurt represent the most important, future-oriented market. This makes it all the more important for both the exhibitor and visitor sides of the sector that we have the opportunity to obtain an overview of the latest market developments, to exchange ideas and information and to initiate new business. We are very relieved about this and hope that, next year, we will once again have the chance to generate new momentum for our sector in the international market.”

For the first time, Techtextil and Texprocess will occupy the western sector of Frankfurt Fair and Exhibition Centre with a total of four exhibition halls and, with a hybrid format, offer the best of both the physical and immaterial worlds: personal communication, virtual networking opportunities and maximum digital coverage. With a comprehensive hygiene and safety concept, Messe Frankfurt will ensure that all visitors and exhibitors can take part safely and with a good feeling.

Fibre Extrusion Technology Ltd of Leeds, UK has now commenced construction of a new purpose-built Research & Development Centre to enable continued growth through innovation. This modern two-storey development will be situated on the adjacent site, providing state-of-the-art facilities, including a Visitor Centre and enhanced Process Development Laboratory (PDL) for client testing and product development. Central to FET’s success has been its ability to provide customers with advanced facilities and equipment, together with unrivalled knowledge and expertise in research and production techniques. The new expanded premises will further improve this service.

Clients frequently spend several days on site participating in development trials and technical sales meetings, so the Visitor Centre is designed to make their stay more efficient and comfortable. Sales, administration and design departments will also be housed in the new building.

The addition of the Visitor Centre will free up a considerable amount of space for production and other facilities in the existing premises. This major refurbishment phase for the existing premises is scheduled for completion at the end of 2021. As a result, FET’s manufacturing capacity will increase by more than 50% to cope with customer demand.  

Substantial year-on-year growth has driven this initiative and FET’s current order book in excess of £10million has provided the opportunity for equipping the company infrastructure for the future. Sustainability has been at the forefront of FET’s growth, supporting customers in their development of sustainable textiles and this principle is reflected in the choice of building materials and products for the Visitor Centre wherever possible.

It is expected that the new Visitor Centre will be opened in the first quarter of 2022.

• Successful measures to fight against the COVID-19 pandemic with a focus on the safety and health of employees, customers and partners and securing sustainable business development
• Implementation of strategic investment projects and climate targets progressing on schedule – launch of first TENCEL™ branded carbon-zero fibers
• New level of transparency in the textile industry: introduction of blockchain technology
• Target setting: Lenzing raises the bar even higher and sets new sustainability goals

The Lenzing Group presented its Sustainability Report 2020 on April 22, 2021, World Earth Day. Featuring the title “Stand up for future generations”, Lenzing once again emphasized its commitment to taking responsibility beyond the products it makes. The non-financial report, prepared in accordance with the reporting standards of the Global Reporting Initiative (GRI) and the Austrian Sustainability and Diversity Improvement Act (NaDiVeG) and reviewed by KPMG Austria GmbH Wirtschaftsprüfungs- und Steuerberatungsgesellschaft, illustrates how the company is responding to the global challenges of our time.

The 2020 financial year of the Lenzing Group was largely dominated by the COVID-19 pandemic. Lenzing took short-term measures to safeguard its business operations and mitigate the effects of fiber prices and fiber demand which came under increasing pressure. The priority was to protect employees and strengthen long-term partnerships with suppliers and customers. Following the current fight against the coronavirus and its consequences, the company continues to move ahead determinedly to achieve its sustainability targets, also against the backdrop of such a difficult market environment.

With the implementation of its science-based targets, the Lenzing Group actively contributes to mastering the problems caused by climate change. In 2019, Lenzing made a strategic commitment to reducing its greenhouse gas emissions by 50 percent per ton of product by 2030. The overriding target is to be climate-neutral by 2050.*

The launch of the first carbon-zero TENCEL™ fibers certified as CarbonNeutral® products in accordance with The CarbonNeutral Protocol – the leading global framework for carbon neutrality – represents another important milestone from the reporting year. As of June 2021, Lenzing will also market the first VEOCEL™ branded lyocell fibers as certified CarbonNeutral® products.

Promoting the circular economy
Lenzing also sets standards for the entire fiber, textile and clothing industry with respect to the circular economy which is of such crucial importance in climate and resource protection. In order to enhance resource efficiency and offer a solution for the global problem of textile waste, the company developed the REFIBRA™ recycling technology. REFIBRA™ is the only technology in the world enabling the production of new lyocell fibers on a commercial scale from cotton scraps derived from manufacturing cotton clothing as well as from used garments. In this way, an important contribution is made to promoting circularity in the textile industry.*

New level of transparency in the textile industry
In addition to environmental protection, the issue of transparency along the supply chain poses a major challenge to the textile industry. Working in cooperation with TextileGenesis™, Lenzing offers an innovative solution to ensure greater transparency on the basis of blockchain technology. Following several successful pilot projects with renowned fashion brands, this digital platform was ultimately launched in 2020 to enable the traceability of textiles, from the fiber to all stages of production and distribution. Thanks to the innovative Fibercoin™ technology of the TextileGenesis™ platform, Lenzing and its partners are able to issue so-called “blockchain assets” in direct proportion to the physical fiber deliveries of the brands TENCEL™ and LENZING™ ECOVERO™. These digital assets function like a “fingerprint” and thus prevent adulteration.*

Target setting: Lenzing raises the bar even higher
The Lenzing Group operates in line with three strategic principles within the context of its “Naturally positive” sustainability strategy: partnering for change, advancing circularity and greening the value chain.*

*See attached document for more information..

International technology Group ANDRITZ has received an order to supply four new needlepunch lines for nonwoven production from Chongqing Double Elephant Microfiber Material Co., Ltd., China. These lines are scheduled for installation and start-up in the fourth quarter of 2021.

The needlepunch lines by ANDRITZ are designed to process islands-in-the-sea fibers dedicated mainly to the production of high-quality synthetic leather products. Once completed, the lines will produce 30 million meters a year of microfiber nonwoven materials.

The production lines are equipped with an ANDRITZ carding machine and the newly developed Profile® crosslapper as well as the advanced-technology ProWid closed-loop system from ANDRITZ. The system can monitor the weight uniformity (CV%) of the entire product online and predict the weight distribution changes caused by the bonding process. In addition, the web weight can be reduced by controlled stretching, which solves the issue of fiber accumulation at the edges caused by traditional crosslapping methods. Both the weight and the uniformity of the product can be automatically adjusted via the closed-loop function as set on the ANDRITZ gauge.

Chongqing Double Elephant Microfiber Material Co., Ltd., wholly owned by listed Wuxi Double Elephant Microfiber Materials Co., Ltd., is located in the Changshou National Economic and Technological Development Zone of Chongqing City. The company is active in the research, development and manufacture of microfiber materials, polyurethane synthetic leather and polyurethane resin.

• Elasticated melange tape by JUMBO-Textil for exacting requirements

Reliable functionality, select aesthetics, exceptional comfort – the new elasticated melange tape from JUMBO-Textil can really do a lot – and looks extremely good doing it.

Great functionality and an elegant design
To create this innovative elasticated tape, different premium-quality yarns are woven into a high-performance tape for especially exacting demands in terms of comfort and visual appeal. The elasticated material offers amazing performance and robustness beyond its elegant, shimmering melange look and its pleasant, fabric-like feel.

•    Ideal for all applications on visible textile surfaces
•    Premium fabric-like aesthetic and feel
•    Shimmering melange effect
•    Can be manufactured in many individual types and fabrications
•    Additional designs possible: water repellent, flame retardant, etc.
•    For applications in vehicle interiors, functional clothing, the furniture industry, medical technology, and much more

Wide range of applications in numerous industries
The new melange tape is specially designed and made for all visible applications: from multimedia holding tapes or document retainers in vehicle interiors to the functional and attractive cuff on sleeves, trousers or braces of outdoor or work clothing through to tensioning straps on backpacks, in exoskeletons or upholstered furniture.

"Elasticated tapes are often developed and considered primarily from a functional point of view. In our case it is different: our new melange tape combines great functionality with an elegant design and shows that elasticated narrow textiles can also be aesthetic highlights," as Patrick Kielholz, Business Development Manager at JUMBO-Textil emphasises. "The potential applications for our melange tape are almost limitless. Exciting solutions are available for almost all industries."

The most important properties at a glance:

Colours: grey melange, black melange; optionally, various other colour options
Sample: single-colour melange; optionally, longitudinal stripes, melange
Width, Standard: 40.0 mm
Width, Customized: 10 mm – 320 mm
Elasticity: up to 60%

• On 22.03 STOLL will offer a webinar through the online platform of Fashion Council Germany on the topic of digitalisation and sustainability in STOLL flat knitting.

Webinar Description
Digitalisation and sustainability are becoming increasingly essential for the success and existence of fashion companies. The flat knitting industry with its immense flexibility and diversity offers many opportunities for digital solutions and sustainable practices. In this webinar, Karl Mayer Stoll will share how digital design tools enable more sustainable knitwear development.

Fashion Council Germany
The FCG is the patron to strengthen the German fashion and design landscape for a visionary, technological & sustainable future in a global market.
The Fashion Council Germany represents the interests of fashion "designed in Germany". Founded in January 2015 in Berlin. On the initiative of national industry experts, the Fashion Council Germany promotes German fashion design as a cultural and economic asset and supports young designers from Germany. In addition to the promotion of young designers, special attention is paid to education, sustainability and fashion technology as well as to the promotion of cross-disciplinary dialogue and networking. Against this background, the Council carries out essential lobbying work in politics, business and culture, strives for visibility and emphasises the global relevance of fashion design and Germany as a fashion location at home and abroad.

Since the beginning of last year, the FCG offers workshops on various business topics in the fashion industry. Until further notice, all FCG seminars will take place online due to the Corona crisis.

Reinach, Switzerland, and Westlake, Ohio, 2 February 2021 - Archroma, a global leader in specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, today announced a strategic partnership with technology innovator CleanKore, aiming to advance sustainable dyeing processes throughout the denim supply chain.

The agreement will allow Archroma and CleanKore to promote the benefits of each other’s technologies. This includes Archroma’s robust catalog of dyes and specialty chemicals along with CleanKore’s patented process of dyeing yarns at the denim mill that completely eliminates the need for potassium permanganate (PP) spray and laser booster to achieve the bright white abrasion effect in the garment finishing process. The result is a large and circular bright white core with a small ring of indigo dye. The technology does not just eliminate the chemicals associated in the PP spray and laser process, which is much safer for denim workers, it also allows to save significant amounts of water and energy throughout the manufacturing process from fabric to garmenting.

CleanKore initially looked at eliminating potassium permanganate due to its being classified as hazardous if inhaled or ingested, or in case of contact with the skin or the eye. It is also considered very toxic to aquatic life. No new equipment or capital expenses are needed to implement the CleanKore technology, which works on all denim fabric, including dark indigo, sulfur top/bottom and sulfur black.

This is where Archroma comes into the picture. Its global technical team of denim coloration specialists will provide support to denim mills seeking to implement the CleanKore technology and develop the desired looks and effects - with the right colors and chemical systems for their production set-up.

CleanKore estimates that the technology allows to save up to 15 liters of water per garment, or the equivalent to the drinking needs of 5 people per day, and up to 0.51 kWh of energy per garment, or the equivalent of five 100-watt light bulbs on for 1 hour. The CleanKore technology also leads to a 10% to 20% increase in production throughput, as a result of a faster garment wash-down and the elimination of PP spray.

For CleanKore CEO Darryl Costin Jr., the announcement comes at an ideal time for CleanKore: "We have successfully proven the technology with mill partners such as Arvind and other denim mills in Pakistan, Bangladesh, China, Vietnam, Thailand and the United States. The response from the industry has been overwhelmingly positive. Having a partner in Archroma, one that is highly respected for their innovation and emphasis on sustainability throughout the industry, will allow us to take CleanKore to the next level.”

Umberto Devita, Global Indigo Manager at the Archroma Global Competence Center for Denim & Casualwear, adds: "CleanKore is perfectly aligned with the 3 pillars of 'The Archroma Way to a Sustainable World: Safe, efficient, enhanced'. 'Safe' through the elimination of a potentially harmful substance and the protection of the denim workers, 'Efficient' through the reduction of resource consumption, improved productivity and cost-effective profile. And 'Enhanced' through the gorgeous colors and effects allowed with Archroma's innovations and systems, in particular our aniline-free* Denisol® Pure Indigo and Diresul® sulfur dyes. We look forward to help promoting an innovation that will help with many of the challenges facing our denim customers throughout the world. Because it’s our nature."

First edition of JEC Summit Sports & Health – Connect, an online event platform devoted to medical and sports equipment manufacturers using composites, ended last week going above and beyond its set goals. JEC Summit Sports & Health – Connect brought together professionals from the whole composites value chain and allows decision-makers to evolve and inspire through a subsequent event program. This summit was the first in a long line of events devoted to composites in the Sports and Health industry that are to come within the next two years.

The three-day event was conceived as a forum to gather composites professionals, affiliates, and high-profile speakers to share their expertise in composites materials involved in creating state-of-the-art medical devices and sports equipment.

“Following the enforced postponement of many trade shows, we took the step of becoming the first organizer to stage an online event dedicated to composites in the sports and health industry. We put together a high-level conference agenda and speaker roster, and devised some great ideas for virtual networking, said Christian Strassburger, Event Director at JEC Group. “I could not be prouder of what we achieved with many delegates from Europe and Americas tuning in, including representatives from more than 36 countries. I would also like to take this opportunity to thank all our sponsors and partners. Their trust, support, and input were a crucial part of both the quality and success of the summit.”

The event attracted an audience of more than 1,100 professionals from the composites industry, from 36 countries, and helped organize 216 pre-arranged one to one meetings between buyers and sellers via our dedicated online meeting rooms, this without mentioning informal networking between participants. It reached these numbers, as participants logged on in considerable numbers to learn from the insights and ideas of the unparalleled line-up of high-level speakers who took part in the summit’s twenty-track conference.

The agenda for the JEC Summit Sports & Health – Connect featured tracks on current trends and Innovations in sports & health composite applications, with keynotes delivered by Dominic LeBlanc Senior Concept Engineer, at Callaway Golf, Christophe Lecomte, Director of Biomechanical Solutions R&D, at Össur, Fleur Jong, Professional Sprinter, and Co-founder of the Para Athletics Foundation and Damiano Salvatori, Materials Research Engineer, at the Straumann Group.

The panel of high-profile experts from Europe and America offered perspectives and inspiration for the next generation of medical and sports devices made of composites materials. The line-up included Bjorn Ivar Austrem, Technical Director, at Madshus, Laurine Calistri, Research Engineer, at Proteor, Anatole Gilliot, CEO of Suprem, Julien Duplay, Composites Methods Engineer, at Decathlon, Eric Jackson, President of Apex Watercraft, Stéphan Vérin, General Secretary, at EuraMaterials, Maximilian Segl, Principal Expert Composites, and Johannes Wölper, Development Engineer, both from Ottobock, and Matthew Dickinson, Senior Lecturer in Engineering, at University of Central Lancashire. Christos Karatzias, at Mitsui Chemicals Europe and Anthony Bert, at Helicoid Industries.

And one cannot omit the international startups that pitched all through the three-day event: ProsFit (Bulgaria), Alchemy (Greece), moi composites (Italy), Mercuris (Germany), Arevo/Superstrata (USA), Checkerspot/WNDR Alpine (USA), Ambrocio (Finland) Nairoby (Argentina). All gave inspiring and promising perspectives in the sector and what to look for in the near future.