From the Sector

• C.L.A.S.S. launches the Manifesto for Responsible Fashion and kicks off the CALL TO ACTION of C.L.A.S.S. ICON 2021
• What does it mean to be a “game changer” in green fashion?
• What are the false myths of eco-fashion and what are the guidelines for innovating while safeguarding the planet? And how do you tell the story behind a sustainable fashion collection?

An annual competition to reward a visionary creative who combines design, responsible innovation and communication, capable of raising contemporary consumer awareness of the new values of sustainable fashion. This is the Call to Action launched to find the C.L.A.S.S. ICON 2021 by Giusy Bettoni of C.L.A.S.S. in the Smart Voices panel "C.L.A.S.S. ICON: Award and Manifesto for Responsible Fashion", moderated by the green journalist Diana de Marsanich, and starring, on the 10th February, the fashion designer Gilberto Calzolari, recipient of the international award for creative visionaries in the world of fashion C.L.A.S.S. ICON Award 2020, and Federico Poletti, Marketing and Communication Director of WHITE SHOW.

C.L.A.S.S. Manifesto  

During the Smart Voice, the C.L.A.S.S. Manifesto for Responsible Fashion, the 2021 edition of the C.L.A.S.S. ICON competition and the Sustainability Formula were presented.

C.L.A.S.S. ICON Award is an international award for visionary creatives in the fashion world who are able to convey the values of sustainability not only to fashion professionals, but also to the wider public: consumers. "We created C.L.A.S.S. ICON to reward visionary designers who create their collections by combining design, innovation and responsibility and who are able to communicate the values behind their garments authentically and effectively to consumers. It's time for storymaking and storytelling to align, otherwise it's just greenwashing" says Giusy Bettoni.

From 15th of February to 15th of April it will be possible to apply by sending an email to classicon@classecohub.org, with a description and objectives of the brand, the sustainability values adopted and the strategy, the designer's profile, a photo-video story of the latest collection, and any previous awards won (all info on http://www.classecohub.org).

During the panel, designer Gilberto Calzolari, the first winner of the first C.L.A.S.S. ICON Award, shared his vision for responsible fashion and his current projects. "My brand is a laboratory of experimentation. I create fashion to open conversations and change the way people behave and think. My creativity, from the choice of fabrics and processes to the image I decide to communicate, are the weapons at my disposal. Since the beginning, I have been really excited to team up with C.L.A.S.S. in order to share a common and challenging journey, with the perspective to be part of a constantly growing network activating mutual support. I have always thought at my collections as a call to action for a better future and now more than ever my mission as C.L.A.S.S. ICON is to make people understand that commitment and sustainability can and must go hand in hand with beauty and elegance. The adage 'kalòs kai agathòs' is one of the classical teachings that should never be forgotten: aesthetics, in my opinion, is inseparable from ethics. That's why I don't just target professionals, but also the end consumer, fashionistas and beyond" says Gilberto.

"For the first edition of C.L.A.S.S. ICON in 2020 Gilberto was decreed as our chosen one, and the path together was sanctioned at that moment: the sharing of values and visions is an indissoluble bond that keeps us united over time. Like Gilberto, each ICON will be part of a community where together with C.L.A.S.S. will try to make a real smart fashion and above all create an important voice," says Giusy Bettoni.

In support of the C.L.A.S.S. ICON award, C.L.A.S.S. presented its Manifesto for Responsible Fashion, which summarises the values that C.L.A.S.S. has been researching, communicating and developing since 2007: the role of the ethical company and its transparent production, the importance of traceable and healthy products, with total respect for people and the environment. A commitment to a circular economy with a positive impact that also means safeguarding the seas, the ocean, the use of water, energy and resources.

"A Manifesto for fashion with the lowest possible impact on the planet and on people and animals’ health thanks to responsible innovation, perfectly up to the challenges of contemporary lifestyle. This is why I created the Sustainability Formula, which only exists when there is design, responsible innovation and we are able to track and measure the impact of products and processes and communicate the new values in an appropriate way. In a word, when there is knowledge" concludes Giusy Bettoni.
 
F = D x I x S x C
F= Fashion
D=Design
S=Sustainability
C=Communication

Swedish commission dyeing company 7H Färgeri is looking to propel itself to the forefront of sustainable fabric production with the installation of the first industrial scale imogo Dye-Max spray dyeing line.
Currently under construction, the line will be delivered in the first week of March to the 7H plant close to the Swedish city of Borås. It will have a full working width of 1.8 metres with an operating speed of up to 50 metres for the reactive dyeing of cellulosic fibre-based fabrics. In addition, it will be capable of carrying out the application of a wide range of fabric pre-treatments and finishing processes, providing the company with unbeatable flexibility in production.

A proven Mini-Max laboratory unit for pre-determining application volumes and colour matching will also be delivered as part of the contract.

With the potential to slash the use of fresh water, wastewater, energy and chemicals by as much as 90% compared to conventional jet dyeing systems, the DyeMax has gained considerable attention since the concept was outlined and a prototype machine constructed in 2019.

Pilot scale trials have subsequently been carried out with many well-known international textile companies and their brand partners.
The application unit of the Dye-Max consists of a closed chamber containing a series of spray cassettes with precision nozzles for accurate and consistent coverage, in combination with the patented imogo Pro Speed valve that controls the volume to be applied.

Control and precision
“We are achieving an extremely low liquor ratio of around 0.5-1 litres per kilo of fabric and we fully control the pickup, applying precisely what is required to the specific fabric,” says imogo founding partner Per Stenflo. “Compared to traditional padders there is no contamination of the dyebath or dilution of the dye liquor to worry about.
Fast changeovers with virtually no waste together with a high production speed enable a high productivity and unmatched production flexibility. The system is also equipped with an exhaust system and droplet separator to ensure that the environment around the unit is safe and free from particles.

The imogo Mini-Max meanwhile frees up valuable production time by avoiding wasteful pre-runs. The user simply sets the recipe with the Mini-Max and transfers the parameters to the Dye-Max recipe database for the system to be fully production ready.

7H Färgeri was founded in 1935 and has established itself as the Nordic region’s most complete dyeing and processing plant, specialising in technical and functional textiles for the automotive and soft furnishings sectors, as well as functional and protective clothing.

The family-owned business is now run by brothers Johan and Peter Engelmann.
“We are pleased to be pioneering a sustainable first for the dyeing industry,” said Johan Engelmann. “Our goal is to offer the market products and services with the highest quality in the most climate-smart and sustainable way, and imogo’s spray technology will give us the opportunity to offer innovative new services and products to both existing and new customers. It will be a very exciting journey.”

World Congress on Textile Coating
On February 12th Per Stenflo will make a presentation entitled ‘Transforming Textile Dyeing’ during the online World Congress on Textile Coating which is held over four days, between February 11th and 19th.

• Inspiring Interiors

Textiles are an inseparable part of the interior as they give a room atmosphere and good acoustics. But which fabric is best suited for which purpose? This month's drapilux  recommendation is drapilux835 and is aimed at classic and modern hotels as well as offices, healthcare facilities and hospitals.

• Nature-inspired lightness: drapilux 835

The translucency of drapilux 835 conveys openness, lightness and a sense of character. This  was  how  Holger  Schön,  Commercial  Property  Manager  at drapilux, described the series. That is the reason why this fabric, with its versatile floral patterns, adorns the four walls of the commercial property manager’s own home: “We live in the suburbs in a rural setting. Consequently, we chose a design with poppies, as this pattern harmonises well in the natural surroundings in which we live.” The fabric also plays a part in the hygiene chain thanks to the intelligent added function of drapilux bioaktiv. Silver ions on the surface of the fibres kill over 99 percent of any bacteria located on textiles.

Lectra announces its plan to acquire the entire capital and voting rights of US-based Gerber Technology. A key Industry 4.0 player in the fashion, automotive and furniture industries, Lectra designs smart industrial solutions – software, equipment, data and services – that help brands, manufacturers and retailers develop, produce and market their products.

The acquisition, if and when consummated, would allow Lectra to complement its market position and continue to enhance its offerings based on Industry 4.0 technology that will enable its customers to boost the productivity and profitability of their operations. After the French work council of Lectra is consulted and the binding documentation is signed, completion of the acquisition shall remain subject to merger control clearance and other customary conditions and shall be submitted to Lectra shareholders for approval.

The proposed combination would occur at an opportune time for both companies and their customers. The current uncertain economic climate and unprecedented challenges that fashion, automotive and furniture companies are facing due to the COVID-19 pandemic make it more important than ever for them to transform, digitalize and optimize their operations.

For over 50 years, Gerber Technology has used its proprietary technologies and deep domain expertise to provide integrated software and automated hardware solutions to companies around the world, including over 100 Fortune 500 companies in 134 countries.

The strategic combination of Gerber Technology and Lectra will create a premier advanced technology partner, able to quickly meet changing customer needs and deliver even more value through seamlessly integrated solutions. Together, the two companies will have a large installed base of product development software and automated cutting solutions in operation, with a worldwide presence and a long list of prestigious customers.

Consolidating the two companies’ research and development capabilities will enable the combined company to accelerate development of Industry 4.0 technologies and help its expanded customer base seize the full potential of these innovations.
Integrating the technology of the two companies will endow them with the resources to anticipate and address rapidly changing market conditions.

Key transaction terms

Under the proposed acquisition, Lectra would acquire all outstanding shares of Gerber Technology on a cash-free debt-free basis for an upfront payment of 175 million euros – through a combination of cash and debt – plus 5 million newly issued Lectra shares to AIPCF VI LG Funding, LP (“AIPCF VI LG”), an affiliate of American Industrial Partners that is Gerber Technology’s sole shareholder. This would represent a total amount of about 300 million euros based on Lectra’s closing share price on February 5, 2021. No contingent consideration is contemplated.

Gerber Technology’s revenues was 165 million euros in 2020.

Thanks to the strong value creation deriving from significant synergies, Lectra expects the transaction to be accretive for shareholders from 2022.

Upon closing, Daniel Harari would own c. 14.6% of the Lectra shares and AIPCF VI LG would own c. 13.3%.

Lectra’s Board of Directors would welcome a director representing AIPCF VI LG.

Daniel Harari would continue to be the Chairman and Chief Executive Officer of Lectra. Gerber Technology Chief Executive Officer, Mohit Uberoi, would assume special advisor to Daniel Harari role until end-2021.

Lectra’s shareholders would be invited to vote on the issuance of the 5 million new Lectra shares reserved to AIPCF VI LG at a dedicated Extraordinary Shareholders’ Meeting which is currently expected to be held on April 30, 2021. A report containing additional information will be made available to the shareholders prior to the Extraordinary Shareholders’ Meeting.

Lazard is acting as exclusive financial advisor to Lectra, and Latham & Watkins as legal counsel to Lectra.

Goldman Sachs is acting as exclusive financial advisor to AIPCF VI LG, and Ropes & Gray LLP, Baker Botts LLP and Gide Loyrette Nouel A.A.R.P.I. as legal counsel to AIPCF VI LG.

2020 results, update on the 2020-2022 strategic roadmap and guidance for the coming years will be disclosed on February 10, 2021.

Lectra management will discuss the transaction, provide forward-looking guidance for the combined company upon closing of the transaction and answer questions from the financial community during the February 11, 2021 webcast Analyst Conference meeting in French starting at 8:30 am (CET - Paris).

International technology Group ANDRITZ has received an order from Lotus Teknik A.Ş., Turkey, to supply a neXline wetlace CP (carded pulp) line for the production of biodegradable, plastic-free wet wipes. Lotus Teknik A.Ş. is a leading nonwoven roll good producer and a member of the Sapro group. Sapro is based in Istanbul, Turkey, and is one of the top three producers of wet wipes globally.  

The neXline wetlace CP line is equipped with state-of-the-art stock preparation equipment, including approach flow and fan pump, opening and blending, TT card, wetlaid forming unit for pulp application, a hydroentanglement system, filtration unit, dewatering, and through-air drying. All components are perfectly designed to produce a first-class biodegradable wipe. The line is scheduled for start-up by the end of 2021.

ANDRITZ developed the new neXline wetlace CP line in order to serve the new market trend of sustainable wipes. Lotus Teknik supported the development from a roll goods producer and converter perspective. The partnership follows the successful installation of an ANDRITZ high-capacity spunlace line some years ago. The Wetlace CP new generation of production technology for biodegradable wipes has resulted from ANDRITZ’s extensive knowledge and considerable history of providing technologies for wood-based industries, spunlace and wetlaid roll goods, and the strong collaboration with Lotus Teknik.

• ITM of TU Dresden – your research partner in the field of virtual product development at ISPO Munich
• ISPO Munich Online 2021 – the world´s leading sports business platform from February 1st to 5th 2021

The Chair of Assembly Technology for Textile Products of ITM presents itself for the first time at ISPO Munich Online 2021 – showcasing its expertise in the field of virtual product development. Its know-how in the determination of material parameters, digital data processing, and data transfer will be presented as well as its competencies in 3D/4D body shape recording via scanning, data animation for the 3D product development for functional clothing, and simulation for wear comfort/usage visualization. The Chair of Assembly Technology for Textile Products of ITM has manifested its leading global position in the virtual product development sector by successfully completing a variety of national and international interdisciplinary research projects.

Researchers of the Chair of Assembly Technology for Textile Products have been actively involved in the preparation and digital representation of material samples for the ISPO Textrends Forum. Thus, the material parameters of the ISPO Textrends Award textiles were determined for 3D fit simulations in Vidya (Assyst/Vizoo), automatically analyzed, and digitally processed by the specially developed "Material Analyzer" software. This software in addition to other state-of-the-art CAE infrastructure, such as the recently installed 4D Scanner Move4D, are essential for the further establishment and promotion of its leading position in the field of digitalization and virtual product development for garments for high-tech applications.

The researchers involved eagerly await future collaborations in this promising field of research. This pilot project presented at ISPO 2021 was coordinated by the company FOURSOURCE Group GmbH, thus enabling the characterization and 3D visualization of the award-winning materials that are presented to all visitors at ISPO 2021.

Order Intake Continued to Recover in the Fourth Quarter of 2020:

• Order intake increased to CHF 215.1 million in the fourth quarter of 2020 and reached a total of CHF 640.2 million in the 2020 financial year
• As expected, sales of CHF 573.0 million in the 2020 financial year were significantly down on the previous year
• EBIT margin of around -15% and net profit of around -16% of sales expected
• First half of 2021 still heavily impacted by the COVID-19 pandemic
• Change to the Group Executive Committee

Rieter posted a globally and broadly supported order intake of CHF 215.1 million in the fourth quarter of 2020. Thus, the recovery that began in the third quarter of 2020 after the slump in demand in the second quarter continued (order intake second quarter: CHF 45.7 million, third quarter: CHF 174.4 million). Overall, Rieter’s annual order intake for the 2020 financial year totaled CHF 640.2 million, which corresponds to a decrease of 31% compared to the previous year.

At the end of 2020, the company had an order backlog of about CHF 560 million (December 31, 2019: about CHF 500 million).

As expected, as a consequence of the economic effects of the COVID-19 pandemic, the Rieter Group closed the 2020 financial year with considerably lower sales than in the previous year. According to the first, as yet unaudited figures, total sales of CHF 573.0 million were achieved, which corresponds to a decrease of 25% compared to the previous year (2019: CHF 760.0 million).

Order Intake by Business Group
All three business groups were affected by the slump in demand in the second quarter of 2020 due to the COVID-19 pandemic. Despite the recovery in order intake in the third and fourth quarters of 2020, the weak second quarter was only partially offset.

The Business Group Machines & Systems was particularly hard hit by the effects of the pandemic, with a year-on-year decline of 35%. The Business Groups Components and After Sales each recorded a 24% reduction in order intake.*

Sales by Business Group
The exceptional market situation in 2020 gave rise to a significant decline in sales in all three business groups. Accordingly, reluctance to invest and deferred deliveries by customers caused sales in the Business Group Machines & Systems to decline by 24% compared to the previous year.

Due to COVID-19, a large number of spinning mills stopped production worldwide. This led to low demand for spare parts and wear parts, especially in the second and third quarters of 2020. Accordingly, compared to the previous year, sales in the Business Groups Components and After Sales fell by 24% and 27% respectively in the 2020 financial year.*

Sales by Region
With the exception of Turkey, all regions were affected by the low demand as a consequence of the COVID-19 pandemic.*

EBIT Margin and Net Profit
In the 2020 financial year, Rieter anticipates an EBIT margin of around -15% (2019: 11.2%) and net profit of around -16% of sales (2019: 6.9%). As of December 31, 2020, Rieter had liquid funds of exceeding CHF 280 million and unused credit lines in the mid three-digit million range.

First Half of 2021 Still Heavily Impacted by the COVID-19 Pandemic
Thanks to the improved capacity utilization, Rieter is planning short-time working in only a few areas in the first half of 2021. Nevertheless, Rieter expects sales in the first half of 2021 to be below the break-even point.*

Change to the Group Executive Committee
With effect from March 1, 2021, the Board of Directors of Rieter Holding Ltd. has appointed Roger Albrecht as Head of the Business Group Machines & Systems and a member of the Group Executive Committee.*

Annual General Meeting April 15, 2021
The 2021 Annual General Meeting of Rieter Holding Ltd. will take place in Winterthur on April 15, 2021.*

*See attached document for more information.

From the drinking water and food industries through water management and mining to the automotive and aviation sectors, mechanical filtration processes are used in almost every industry. As different as the methods, dimensions and special requirements of the filtration process are in each case – technical textiles and often tubular filters are almost always used. This means that tubular filters and narrow textiles by vombaur contribute to the safe and reliable separation or treatment of substances in the widest variety of filtration processes.

Individual solutions
The requirements placed on the textile, the material, the flow rate and the loading capacity of the filters depend on the respective use: a tubular for dewatering soil needs to withstand different forces than a tubular filter for the beverages industry. On the other hand, the latter needs to meet the highest hygiene standards. Because the requirements are so individual, vombaur develops customised filtration textiles for its customers all over the world.

Seamless tubular filters
At vombaur, filter media are round woven seamlessly on unique looms. As a result, they have identical surface properties all around and over the entire length, such as flow rate, loading capacity, shrinkage behaviour or material thickness

Narrow textiles for fabricating filter media
"We manufacture our narrow textiles from a wide variety of high-tech yarns. Sometimes monofilament yarn is used, sometimes multifilament, sometimes spun yarn. Like the type of weave, we select the raw materials depending on the function they need to fulfil," emphasises Gert Laarakker, Sales Manager at vombaur. "So that our filtration textiles reliably perform the job they are supposed to perform. Clean. Safe. Sturdy."

Sorpol Ltd., a leading importer and distributor of industrial raw materials in Israel, has launched a website to sell Acteev Protect™ masks, made in the USA by polyamide manufacturer Ascend Performance Materials. The two companies also plan to partner in the distribution of Acteev surgical masks, N95 respirators, nonwoven media and textile fabrics as they become available.

Laboratory tests have demonstrated Acteev fabric effective at deactivating 99.9% of the viruses SARS-CoV-2, the cause of COVID-19, and H1N1, a flu virus. Acteev technology also eliminates bacteria and fungi.

Ofer Soreq, Sorpol’s marketing director, said the Acteev Protect line fits in neatly with the mission of the company.

Recent testing on Acteev fabric completed at the University of Cambridge has demonstrated that Acteev technology deactivates the virus that causes COVID-19, SARS-CoV-2, with 99.9% efficacy on contact. Ascend has submitted several masks designs to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency and the U.S. Food and Drug Administration to obtain the appropriate regulatory clearances to make specific claims regarding the technology’s antiviral properties in the United States.

In addition to antiviral, antifungal and antibacterial protection, the washable, reusable masks are lightweight, breathable and odor-fighting, making them comfortable to wear during a long shift at work or for outdoor workouts.

Acteev Protect shows promise for use beyond masks, according to Ascend. The technology was originally developed for workout wear, and now the company is working on textile applications ranging from gloves to scrubs to high-end athleisure

With the industrial use of solar energy, Lenzing sets new standards regarding decarbonization in the fiber industry.

The Lenzing Group plans Upper Austria’s largest ground-mounted photovoltaic plant on an area of around 55,000 m². The groundbreaking ceremony is scheduled to take place in summer 2021. After the expected commissioning in the second half of 2021, the plant's output will amount to 5.5 MWpeak. With approximately 16,000 modules, the plant will generate nearly 5,500 megawatt hours per year. This corresponds to the average annual electricity demand of more than 1,700 households and is unique in Upper Austria on this scale.

The photovoltaic plant is an important symbolic milestone for Lenzing on its way to becoming a CO2-neutral manufacturing site. This project is part of Lenzing’s global energy concept, which aims to provide electricity from 100 percent renewable sources in order to reduce CO2 intensity by 50 percent already in 2030 and to be globally climate neutral in 2050.

"The great challenges of our time need answers. As a leading company in innovation and sustainability, we are proactively contributing to the achievement of climate targets and setting new standards for our industry," explains Stefan Doboczky, CEO of the Lenzing Group. “In addition to ongoing major investments in CO2 neutral sites such as Thailand and Brazil, innovative projects at existing sites are bringing us one step closer to climate neutrality.”