From the Sector

The Group leading facility GENESIS, to drive a new path: when responsible quality means social development

The third time at the Kingpins China Tour (Guangzhou – Hangzhou I September 4 & 6), has been the chance to present the new strategic path undertaken by GENESIS:M&J GROUP. The Group’s leading facility GENESIS aims to explore new business possibilities in the Chinese market through innovative and sustainable developments, showing the interconnections between quality production and a truly responsible approach, one that must also become socially conscious.

GENESIS:M&J GROUP obtained two prestigious LEED Platinum certifications in recent years, and June 2019 saw them being granted the LEED Earth for the Genesis Washing Ltd. facility, confirming its ability to stay at the forefront of quality apparel manufacturing, providing reliability and top-notch services. For the new edition of the Kingpins China Tour, the company has undertaken new developments in terms of responsibility, intended on a double track: improving the eco-conscious production processes while taking significant initiatives in terms of social responsibility.

• Transaction completed in Ingolstadt
• Extraordinary profit contribution after tax of EUR 60 million expected
• Board of Directors approves submission of building application for Rieter CAMPUS in Winterthur
• Project volume of around CHF 80 million expected

Rieter completed the real estate sale in Ingolstadt (Germany) to GERCHGROUP AG of Düsseldorf (Germany) on September 13, 2019. As reported in December last year, Rieter expects an extraordinary profit contribution after tax of around EUR 60 million from this transaction.

The employees in Ingolstadt will move into a new building in the second half of 2021. Rieter will thus create a modern working environment for innovative research and development work and the respective support functions.

On September 13, 2019, the Board of Directors of Rieter Holding Ltd. has made the decisions required for the building application regarding the Rieter CAMPUS project to be submitted in good time. The Rieter CAMPUS in Winterthur will consolidate customer center, product and technology development and administration. Rieter expects to implement the project with a project volume of around CHF 80 million. Archaeological excavations and the demolition of the building “Werkhalle 40” are currently underway.

The Rieter CAMPUS will make an important contribution to the implementation of the innovation strategy and thus to the successful further development of the company. Approval of the building application is expected in spring of 2020.

“CO.LAB was created as a prompt answer responding to the very end-users increasing demand for responsible and sustainable products.” Explains C.L.A.S.S. founder GiusyBettoni. “From here, we realised it was fundamental to create an innovation wardrobe and smart platform open to companies willing to make a difference in the textile and fashion business. We teamed up with TINTEX, the leading manufacturer of ‘naturally advanced’ jersey fabrics, and other leading  garment manufacturers such as Becri, Confetil and Pedrosa & Rodriguesto create a multileveled set of skills ranging from fabrics making to style development, production as well as marketing and communication. All in name of design driven by sustainability.”

partner confirms start-up date of the project in Thailand

With the recently announced plans to establish a lyocell production facility in Thailand, the Lenzing Group is taking an important step in meeting the strong demand for lyocell fibers and is further strengthening the company´s position as an industry leader in the specialty cellulosic fibers market. The proposed plant will be the largest lyocell plant in the world, with an annual capacity of 100,000 tons. The total investment volume for the first production line, including infrastructure and site development, amounts to approximately EUR 400 million. Up to four such lines can be potentially integrated and operated on the site. The project is of great importance to Lenzing as it is the first step in bringing lyocell production to Asia, featuring the largest markets, the most important customers and the most extensive growth potential in specialty fiber production.

 Global Health Exhibition is Saudi’s first healthcare trade platform for the global market and takes place in Riyadh from 10 to 12 September. Saudi Arabia is considered a growing market particularly in the healthcare sector and this exhibition is the response to this development. Over three days visitors can discover the latest products and developments from more than 180 companies from 25 countries. Trevira GmbH is also exhibiting at this show in order to present innovative fabrics from 13 of its customers made from flame retardant fibres and yarns.

In terms of quality, functionality, colouring and hygiene, the requirements on modern furnishing concepts in the healthcare sector are becoming more and more demanding. Perfectly matched materials and colour concepts in the interior help to provide good orientation for the residents and create more attractive spaces. In addition, the use of appropriate textiles such as curtains, drapes, blinds and sliding panels, fabric-covered dividing panels, upholstery and bedding textiles, can improve the room acoustics, protect your privacy and let the room appear in a pleasant light. In healthcare environments where hygiene and cleanliness are of particular importance, antimicrobial textiles may be used.

The 2019 World Textile Forum closes its doors after two successful and exciting days.

On September 9 and 10 renowned speakers and experts from the textile business gathered in Zurich to discuss opportunities in the changing textile world. Exciting talks and keynotes illustrated new possibilities for a more sustainable and digital textile industry. While one part of the versatile program focussed on “Sustainable Sourcing” with speakers such as Robert van de Kerkhof (Lenzing AG), Heinz Zeller (Hugo Boss), Daniel Gemperle (Calida) and Anna Maria Rugarli (VF), the topic of “Digital Production” became the centre of attention later thanks to experts like Torbjörn Netland (ETH), Maximilian Kürig (Karl Mayer), Maria Neidhold (Spoonflower) and Holger Max-Lang (Lectra). They offered new perspectives on the sustainable future of the textile industry, presenting innovative sustainable production and business models. The subsequent panels furthered the knowledge exchange between both attendees and speakers and led to lively discussions.

Swiss Textile Federation, Swiss Textile & Fashion Institute STF and Gherzi Textil Organisation would like to thank all attendees and look forward to the next World Textile Forum!

• Empowering fashion with responsible R&D, cutting edge finishing and a Made in Italy design imprint

Paris - “The soul of sustainable fashion is an alchemy, a combined commitment and an act of responsibility”. This is the motto ‘embossed’ in the collections and the values of Italian Converter. At Première Vision, the leading manufacturer celebrates its 25th anniversary and presents E.C.O. KOSMOS, a cross-collection, a brand-new ‘green line’ range’ and a winning formula shining a light on the company’s responsible path and unique ‘blend’ for the fashion of tomorrow.

The acronym E.C.O. stands for Ecologic, Conversion, Optimisation; three unique concepts and values that truly embody Italian Converter DNA: sustainability, transformative process and quality improvement.
For over 25 years, Italian Converter creates high-quality materials for some of the leading fashion and accessories brands. “Made in Italy and sustainability are part of our DNA.” Says Costantino Karazissis, founder of Italian Converter. “We believe that responsible sourcing and processes as well as a deep research into new technology pathways and a market-savvy taste for material design must be the starting point.”

At the core of the company’s responsible alchemy is also the constant research for the perfect balance of 100% Made in Italy materials. “We proudly collaborate with 120 skilled employees producing new hybrid material innovations daily, attracting partnerships from the best high-end brands both in Italy and abroad”.

Toupe and brick red E.C.O. Graffiti (100% linen) on E.C.O. Aurora (cotton and AMNI SOUL ECO®)

E.C.O. KOSMOS is entirely traceable, transparent, 100%made in Italy. The collection walks through a very complete and balanced range sustainable materials - from natural to eco high tech ones- that are transformed, enriched and valued in 9 high-tech cutting-edge innovations thanks to the Italian Converter expertise.
•    The natural line starts from bases of cotton bonded with AMNI SOUL ECO®, an enhanced polyamide 6.6 that degrades within 5 years instead of decades, as other conventional ones do.
•    The stretch innovations start from bases in GRS-certified Newlife™, a cutting-edge premium recycled polyester created using a High-Tech Conversion Model. Thanks to a mechanical process, used plastic bottles are turned into a top-quality polymer and yarn which is 100% traceable and 100% Made in Italy. The whole process takes place within a 100 square km area in Piedmont in Northern Italy.
 
All the references make use only of water-based resins and Standard 100 by OEKO-TEX® certified dying. The result, is resistant and transpiring solutions which come with bold and high-performing features, with a soft touch or even with a silky, yet strong, and enveloping feel. The designs range from rustic to contemporary and nod to jacquard, ‘authentic look’ and ‘drill’ hints. An ideal solution for footwear, apparel and leather goods.

Long story short? No compromises. E.C.O. Kosmos reflects design, innovation and responsible values, as well as 100% Italian Converter know-how.
 
“But this is just the beginning,” adds Karazissis. “The next step we are going to implement in the E.C.O. Kosmos cross-collection is a progressive integration of our triple-expertise, processes and R&D.” A sustainable step forward, a leap woven into a deep expertise a story to-be-continued. For a better future, this is for sure.

At CAMX Expo, Chomarat is showcasing its range of carbon reinforcements, including live demos: a rocket fairing mold, a kayak paddle and a flat panel will be on display in the demonstration area of Composites One, a partner of Chomarat. The Chomarat carbon range is also available in the USA through Composites One’s distribution network.

DEMONSTRATING THE UNIQUE PROPERTIES OF CHOMARAT’S REINFORCEMENTS
For the rocket fairing mold, the kayak paddle and the flat panel applications, Chomarat’s C-WeaveTM carbon reinforcement offers a unique and excellent visual appearance and structural performance at the same time. “In addition to C-WeaveTM, the kayak paddle comprises another reinforcement: G-flowTM, the 2-in-1 reinforcement for infusion to strengthen the vacuum-flow,” explains Travis Irvin, Sales Manager and Closed Mould Process Expert at Chomarat.

Other live demos of skateboards will demonstrate the potential for high-volume production with RovicoreTM, the famous glass sandwich reinforcement created by Chomarat. ”RovicoreTM is always at the forefront of technology for LRTM process,” he adds.

Moreover, Chomarat is displaying a motorcycle helmet with exposed carbon and a very light kayak paddle, highlighting the properties of C-WeaveTM. A tennis racket using C-PLYTM will also be displayed at the show.

• Pioneering pilot project conducted with Hong Kong based brand Chicks
• A large majority of consumers wants brands to disclose their supply chain
• Transparency ensured from fiber-to-retail

The Lenzing Group has made a huge leap forward in introducing blockchain technology, allowing for a new level of transparency and traceability in the textile industry. After joining the platform of the technology company TextileGenesis™ earlier this year, the world market leader in specialty fibers made from the renewable raw material wood presented the first pilot at this year’s Fashion Summit in Hong Kong on September 05, 2019. This pioneering pilot project was conducted in close cooperation with TextileGenesis™, WWF and Hong Kong based brand Chicks.

• Circularity at the centre

PG DENIM, the designer project by Paolo Gnutti, is ready for several important events scheduled for the autumn with ground-breaking interpretations and a new – increasingly green – business model. The occasion is its participation in the Blue Zone at Munich Fabric Start (Munich, 3-5 September 2019), a space which is increasingly often reserved for companies and projects with a high innovation rate in the world of denim.

PG DENIM at the German exhibition will be presenting important product innovations, but most notably new concepts developed for the S/S 2021 season. The focus here is on circularity, seen from a dual perspective: the product with the no longer traditional alternation of seasons, and a sustainabilityoriented approach.

Seasons meet

The new PG DENIM approach is geared towards overlapping seasonality, with less and less marked separations between projects dedicated to the spring-summer and fall-winter lines. The collections by PG DENIM can thus be increasingly defined as a “mix of products without seasonality”. Its focal points are innovation alongside the concept behind the initial idea, as opposed to just the season. This trend, explains Paolo Gnutti, CEO and R&D Head at PG DENIM, is also due to registering the fact that seasonality – in terms of environment and trends – is changing at an increasingly rapid pace. As a response to this situation, the choice has been made to design new collections starting from macro-trends and presenting fabrics for garments which are “easy to wear”, suitable for both warm and cold temperatures, in a true melting pot  of weights and sizes.

The lines for the previous season are thus reintroduced and restyled playing with weights and sizes, within a range where flock meets ultra-light fabric bases, or where vinyl is combined with typically summer weights which shift the fabric towards the world of “paper” with crispy touches, resulting in extraordinarily lightweight and strong items at the same time. Also the GARAGE DENIM has been upgraded with fluid and smoothed touched for garments which are easy to wear and have a strong personality.

Partnership with The Denim Window

The PG DENIM season is also enhanced by its partnership in The Denim Window project, which has resulted in a limited series of Creative Capsule Collections, derived from the idea of bringing together companies which had already worked or were working together, trying to highlight – through small capsule collections – the best of what had already been produced by traditional businesses. This has resulted  in three trailblazing capsules, two of which designed in partnership by PG DENIM and companies the likes of M&J Group, Cadica and Greenwear. Several copies of these collections have been made to travel the world, and – after the official presentation in July – they will have a special corner, The Denim Window, in the Bluezone at Munich Fabric Start.

The “Circular Programme” and the five “Rs” of sustainability

Also the PG DENIM approach to accountability in production processes has been enhanced by implementing the “Circular Programme”. As part of our corporate vision, Italian-style production is combined with compliance with what have become known as “the five Rs”, that is to say key concepts underlying the design and manufacturing model: Reduce (everything you are not using), Repair (everything you can), Reuse (anything available to you), Recycle (all that is left), Respect (everything around you).

This is the philosophy underlying each individual process at PG DENIM, and leading to new specific programmes which have been its business focus over the past few months:

1) Reducing the environmental impact during the fabric dyeing phase in reaction and sulphurbased processes, where the use of chemicals has been reduced by 40%, water consumption by 50% and CO2 emissions by 60%, which has also resulted in better penetration and a better result in the crocking process. This has led to producing 10 new articles which will be launched on the market.

2) Recycling all waste from processing and after use, creating a range of garments where cotton is actually obtained from regenerating these two kinds of waste. In this regard, PG DENIM for now is the only company on the market able to process with a percentage of recycled product exceeding 60% of the total, whereas the average for this kind of manufacturing is generally about 35%.

As regards regular production, on the other hand, PG DENIM follows stringent international standards, including Dtox, Reach and Gots in all its processing phases, also using BCI cottons and the Organic Cotton Standard for raw materials. Last but not least, it was recently awarded the GRS (Global Recycled Standard) certification.