From the Sector

Stahl, an active proponent of responsible chemistry, has been awarded the highest EcoVadis Platinum rating, placing it within the top 1% of companies assessed by EcoVadis. The award underlines Stahl’s commitment to collaborating with its partners to reduce its environmental impact and build a more responsible and transparent supply chain.

EcoVadis is a globally recognized evidence-based assessment platform that reviews the performance of more than 90,000 organizations across key sustainability criteria. These include environmental impact, labor and human rights standards, ethics, and sustainable procurement practices. The latest report from EcoVadis highlights Stahl’s positive progress across all these areas and builds on the Gold rating achieved by the company in 2021. Stahl’s 2030 target is to maintain the EcoVadis Platinum rating by working closely with its value-chain partners to help them reduce their environmental impact – including by supporting their transition to renewable feedstocks. In 2021, 80% of Stahl’s total spend on raw materials was supplied by EcoVadis-rated suppliers.
 
The new EcoVadis rating comes as Stahl accelerates its efforts to ensure a more responsible and transparent supply chain. Recent steps toward this goal have included establishing a dedicated Supply Chain Transparency division within the company’s Environmental, social, and governance (ESG) department. The division will be tasked with coordinating a new product development framework that prioritizes the responsible sourcing of raw materials. Furthermore, in July 2022, Stahl submitted a new greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions reduction target, including a specific commitment regarding the company’s Scope 3 upstream emissions. Stahl aims to reduce these by at least 25% over the next 10 years, compared with the base year (2021). Stahl expects to achieve this reduction primarily by working with its suppliers to replace fossil-based raw materials with lower-carbon alternatives.

• Integrated Sustainability Report 2021 – 2022 published

DyStar, a leading specialty chemical company released its twelfth annual Sustainability Performance Report. The report is prepared in accordance with the updated GRI Standards 2021: Core option. DyStar continues to adopt the Integrated Reporting <IR> framework to communicate how the group has successfully created tangible value across multiple stakeholder groups in six major capitals.

DyStar reports that they have inched themselves closer to some of their 2025 target of reducing the environmental footprint by 30% for every ton of product, from 2011 levels. Here are some key highlights for FY2021:

• Recorded more than 29% increase in revenue compared to 2020
• Zero workplace fatalities, high-consequence injuries, and work-related ill health
• 40% reduction in Greenhouse gas (GHG) emission intensity, compared to 2011
• 37% decrease in wastewater emission intensity, compared to 2011

The Group was able to remain resilient and steer itself toward optimistic growth and recovery from the global pandemic in FY2021. In face of recent geopolitical events and macroeconomic factors such as soaring energy costs, DyStar and the wider supply chain will continue to face challenges. As a result, the company believes it is crucial to stay committed to their 2025 Sustainability goals to continue generating value for all stakeholders in the longer term, well beyond these turbulent times.

The report communicates DyStar’s progress towards its sustainability agenda and material topics. As part of our commitment to environmental sustainability, only an e-magazine and a PDF version will be made available for download from www.DyStar.com/sustainability-reports/

• Monomaterial solution contains renewably-sourced polypropylene from the Bornewables™ portfolio of circular polyolefins
• Trexel employs its proprietary MuCell® technology to deliver a range of lightweighting benefits
• EverMinds™ in action: reuse and design for recycling are focus of value chain collaboration

Borealis and Trexel, an expert in foaming injection and blow moulded parts, announce that they have co-developed a new plastic bottle based on a grade from the Bornewables™ portfolio of polyolefins made using renewable feedstocks derived 100% from waste and residue streams. The lightweight bottle – which will be showcased at the Borealis stand at the K 2022 (from 19 to 26 October 2022 in Düsseldorf) – is reusable and fully recyclable. It boasts a significantly lower overall CO₂ footprint because it is composed of renewably-sourced feedstock and produced in the foaming process.

The Bornewables™ portfolio of circular polyolefins helps reduce the carbon footprint while offering material performance equal to virgin polymers. Using Bornewables grades allows for design freedom and colour flexibility, and helps retain a premium look and feel. The grades – which are commercially available in Europe – help conserve natural resources because they are derived solely from waste and residue streams, for example from used cooking oil. Reusing waste already in circulation instead of fossil fuel-based feedstocks enhances the sustainability of applications made using the Bornewables grades.

The reusable new bottle developed by Borealis and Trexel retains its value over many life cycles thanks to the use of Trexel’s proprietary technology in tandem with Bornewables grades; as a material solution, the new bottle minimises the use of valuable raw materials. Moreover, converters consume less energy in the production process when using the MuCell® technology. The bottle thus helps close the loop on plastics circularity by way of design for recycling, the use of renewable feedstocks, and excellent material performance across multiple life cycles.

Turkish company, Makroser Tekstil specialises in manufacturing digitally printed carpets and over the years has become one of the leading suppliers in the sector. Utilising Mimaki’s high-performance TS300P-1800 sublimation transfer printer since 2020, the company has optimised their production potential to meet increasing customer expectations in this growing digital textile carpet market.

Alongside carpets, the company also offers other solutions to the carpet industry by producing backing and other materials

Acting as both a seller and a supplier, Makroser Tekstil has an approximate monthly output of 150,000 square meters of final product and sells about 70-80,000 square meters of intermediate goods per month. “Our market has four main pillars, including chain market groups, export, e-commerce and our own retail network. We have gained serious momentum in the sales of our final products in recent years, and we attach great importance to our sales and marketing processes, in addition to production, so to increase our profitability. We are currently exporting 35-40% of our production, and our branding and e-commerce activities show that we are making significant improvements”, says Makroser Tekstil’s co-founder, Talha Güldest.

Makroser Tekstil decided to invest in a Mimaki TS300P-1800 sublimation transfer printer back in August 2020, with the aim to strengthen their position in the digitally printed carpet market. “The investment in the TS300P-1800 has enabled us to have the capacity to respond quickly to e-commerce orders,” Güldeste commented. “Product quality is the main criterion in the supplies we provide to both online and retail outlets. We made this investment because we saw that we would increase our quality and customer satisfaction in the carpets we print. The Mimaki printer met our expectations, providing the results we wanted from the very first print after installation.” Considering the increased demand, Güldeste aims to further boost their printing capacity with investment in several more Mimaki printers.

Freudenberg Performance Materials Apparel (Freudenberg) is pleased to announce the establishment of the Apparel Technical Solution Center – Asia at its Nantong factory in China to expand the company’s innovation capabilities. With floor space of 900 m2, the new center offers technical expertise and innovations to apparel customers from nearly all apparel segments in Asia and around the world.

New capabilities with the Apparel Technical Solution Center – Asia
Committed to bringing enhanced technical support and services tailored to customers’ needs, the dedicated Apparel Technical Solution Center – Asia (ATSC) is equipped with cutting-edge technology. This includes a wide variety of fusing and bonding machines, laser and ultrasonic cutters, specialized sewing machines for sportswear applications, fiber filling machines for insulation applications, and washing and dry-cleaning machines that meet GB and AATCC standards.

The ATSC offers technical know-how to help customers design complex apparel solutions. In particular, it furthers Freudenberg’s dedication to joint innovations with sportswear customers and to finding technical solutions for performance applications.

Further innovation at the Nantong factory
The factory was moved to the Nantong Economic and Technological Development Area to meet increased production demand with state-of-the-art technological capabilities. Covering an area of nearly 50,000 m² with cotton interlining, bi-elastic fusible interlining, and preformed materials production lines, the new site went into operation in 2021.

Dedicated to continuously improving production quality, the new factory also includes an innovative online defect detection system. This system enables defect information to be captured in real time and sent to operators for immediate adjustments, increasing the rate of bi-elastic interlinings and shirt interlinings. Furthermore, the online weft density automatic adjustment system helps improve the stability of the drying process and the quality of semi-finished products.

Freudenberg Performance Materials (Freudenberg) is presenting its sustainable Evolon® product range for reusable technical packaging for highly-sensitive parts at Fachpack 2022 in Nuremberg, Germany from September 27-29. The microfilament textiles offer improved surface protection for molded plastic parts, painted parts and so-called class A parts, thus providing customers with significant savings potential.

Evolon® RE is the most sustainable product in the portfolio. It contains the highest percentage of recycled PET and has a smaller carbon footprint. The new Ultra Force range from Evolon® offers extremely high mechanical strength and eliminates the need for PVC in the transportation and protection of large, heavy parts. Freudenberg has developed the ESD range (electro-static discharge range) for the packaging of sensitive electronic components: it offers permanent electro-static discharging and its surface resistivity can be customized.

Beaulieu International Group invites EuroGeo7 attendees to discover geotextile solutions promoting greater sustainability for future civil engineering projects. Specialists from Beaulieu Fibres International (BFI) and Beaulieu Technical Textiles (BTT) will present high-performance geosynthetics through high tenacity fibres for lightweight, nonwoven geotextiles, and a range of high durability woven geotextile solutions with an environmentally beneficial impact.

“We are delighted to sponsor EuroGeo7 and to be finally on-site, following a two-year postponement of the event. EuroGeo7 is bringing the geotextile community together to further promote and develop geosynthetics in a fast changing global economy striving for growth while reducing its carbon footprint along the supply chain, " comment from Jefrem Jennard, Sales Director Fibres, and Roy Kerckhove, Sales Director Technical Textiles. “Geotextiles provide highly versatile, durable and natural resource-saving alternatives in large infrastructure works, and offer durable protection in erosion control and waste/water management projects. We are continuously developing our fibres and finished engineering textiles with proven sustainability-enhancing benefits to progress product development and customer sustainability goals on fossil carbon reduction, while taking concrete steps to reduce our own environmental footprint.”
 
Sustainability improvement is key to the long-term strategy of Beaulieu International Group, and it is committed to supporting the geotextile industry by targeting and accelerating change and communicating the sustainable performance of its products. The UN Sustainable Development Goals are integrated into its business and are the foundations of the new Route 2030 Sustainability Roadmap.

For manufacturers of nonwoven geotextiles, BFI’s high-tenacity HT8 staple fibres enable customers to achieve nonwovens with high mechanical performance at reduced fibre weight. The HT8 high tenacity fibres are designed in a way that customers can meet the industry durability standards for a longer service lifetime, supporting more sustainable design and resource reduction over time. BTT’s woven geotextiles are amongst the most sustainable in the industry and provide a wide range of functions, including separation, filtration, reinforcement and erosion control.

BFI and BTT have conducted lifecycle assessments to calculate their activities' carbon footprint and solutions and have received external recognition for their ongoing sustainability efforts. For example, in 2022, BFI was awarded a Silver EcoVadis sustainability rating, and BFI and BTT are proud recipients of the Voka Charter for Sustainable Entrepreneurship 2022.

The world’s largest fashion brands and retailers must increase transparency to tackle the climate crisis and social inequality, according to the latest Fashion Transparency Index.

The seventh edition of the Fashion Transparency Index ranks 250 of the world’s largest fashion brands and retailers based on their public disclosure of human rights and environmental policies, practices, and impacts, across their operations and supply chains.

• Brands achieved an average score of just 24%, with nearly a third of brands scoring less than 10%
• The majority of brands (85%) do not disclose their annual production volumes despite mounting evidence of clothing waste around the world
• Most major brands and retailers (96%) do not publish the number of workers in their supply chain paid a living wage

The Index reveals insights into the most pressing issues facing the fashion industry, like:

• As new and proposed legislation focuses on greenwashing claims, almost half of major brands (45%) publish targets on sustainable materials yet only 37% provide information on what constitutes a sustainable material.
• Only 24% of major brands disclose how they minimise the impacts of microfibres despite textiles being the largest source of microplastics in the ocean.
• The vast majority of major brands and retailers (94%) do not disclose the number of workers in their supply chains who are paying recruitment fees. This paints an unclear picture of the risks of forced labour as workers may be getting into crippling debt to accept jobs paying poverty wages.
• While many brands use their channels to talk about social justice, they need to go beyond lip service. Just 8% of brands publish their actions on racial and ethnic equality in their supply chains.

Despite these results, Fashion Revolution is encouraged by increasing supply chain transparency among many major brands, primarily with first-tier manufacturers where the final stage of production occurs, e.g. cutting, sewing, finishing and packing. Nine brands have disclosed their first-tier manufacturers for the first time this year. It is encouraging to see significant progress across market segments including luxury, sportswear, footwear and accessories and across different geographies.

Fashion Revolution’s co-founder and Global Operations Director Carry Somers says: “In 2016, only 5 out of 40 major brands (12.5%) disclosed their suppliers. Seven years later, 121 out of 250 major brands (48%) disclose their suppliers. This clearly demonstrates how the Index incentivises transparency but it also shows that brands really are listening to the millions of people around the world who keep asking them #WhoMadeMyClothes? Our power is in our persistence.”

More key findings from the Fashion Transparency Index 2022:

Progress on transparency in the global fashion industry is still too slow among 250 of the world’s largest fashion brands and retailers, with brands achieving an overall average score of just 24%, up 1% from last year
For another year, the initiative has seen major brands and retailers publicly disclose the most information about their policies, commitments and processes on human rights and environmental topics and significantly less about the results, outcomes and impacts of their efforts.

Most (85%) major brands still do not disclose their annual production volumes despite mounting evidence of overproduction and clothing waste
Thousands of tonnes of clothing waste are found globally. However, brands have disclosed more information about the circular solutions they are developing (28%) than on the actual volumes of pre- (10%) and post-production waste they produce (8%). Brands have sat by as waste importing countries foot the bill, resulting in serious human rights and environmental implications.

Just 11% of brands publish a responsible purchasing code of conduct indicating that most are still reluctant to disclose how their purchasing practices could be affecting suppliers and workers
Greater transparency on how brands interact with their suppliers ought to be a first step towards eliminating harmful practices and promoting fair purchasing practices. The poor performance on transparency in this vital area is a missed opportunity for brands to demonstrate they are serious about addressing the root causes of harmful working conditions, including the instances where they themselves are the key driver.

Despite the urgency of the climate crisis, less than a third of major brands disclose a decarbonisation target covering their entire supply chain which is verified by the Science-Based Targets Initiative
Many brands and retailers rely heavily on garment producing countries that are vulnerable to the impacts of the climate crisis, yet our research shows that only 29% of major brands and retailers publish a decarbonisation target covering their operations and supply chain which is verified by the Science Based Targets Initiative.

Only 11% of brands publish their supplier wastewater test results, despite the textile industry being a leading contributor to water pollution
The fashion industry is a major contributor to water pollution and one of the most water intensive industries on the planet. Only 11% of major brands publish their wastewater test result, and only 25% of brands disclose the process of conducting water-related risk assessments in their supply chain. Transparency on wastewater test results is key to ensuring that brands are held accountable for their potentially devastating impacts on local biodiversity, garment workers and their communities.

Most major brands and retailers (96%) do not publish the number of workers in their supply chain paid a living wage nor do they disclose if they isolate labour costs
Insufficient progress is being made by most brands towards ensuring that the workers in their supply chain are paid enough to cover their basic needs and put aside some discretionary income. Just 27% of brands disclose their approach to achieving living wages for supply chain workers and 96% do not publish the number of workers in their supply chain paid a living wage. In response, we have joined forces with allies across civil society to launch Good Clothes, Fair Pay. The campaign demands groundbreaking living wage legislation across the garment, textile and footwear sector.

In 2015, adidas Originals launched the NMD silhouette – taking cues from the brand’s inimitable archive in order to create a shoe that disrupted the sneaker world at the time. Six years later and the Trefoil has returned with an updated take on the original innovator, channeling the very same independent mindset to present the  NMD V3.

Built for a life in motion, the NMD V3 reimagines its own iconic heritage with a distinctly forward thinking vision. The silhouette features a re-engineered mesh that wraps around the foot, a transparent heel clip, and BOOST cushioning that’s partially encapsulated in a TPU shell. The NMD V3 also comprises an upper made with a high-performance yarn which contains at least 50% Parley Ocean Plastic – re-imagined plastic waste, intercepted on remote islands, beaches, coastal communities and shorelines – and 50% recycled polyester.

Freudenberg Performance Materials is introducing Freudenberg Friction Inserts to trade visitors at WindEnergy, the leading trade fair for the international wind energy industry. Freudenberg Friction Inserts is a unique technology aimed at increasing the power density of wind turbines.

The Freudenberg Friction Inserts (FFI) technology is based on a special very thin nonwoven carrier material coated on one side with hard particles. The FFI are customized to fit each application, in terms of both the geometry and the construction parameters of the connection. As they do not create a gap they can be applied exactly where they are needed.

When placed in the joint, these hard particles penetrate into the surfaces of the two joining parts creating a micro interlock, thus reliably increasing the friction coefficient and achieving higher torque transmission in connections. This results in higher performance and a significant improvement in the efficiency of wind turbines. In addition, it enables the downsizing of components without compromising performance, reducing weight and material.

FFI help to improve the reliability of connections and thus of the entire wind turbine. Furthermore, they eliminate slipping and prevent fretting of connections.

Other examples of applications for FFI are highly loaded flange connections between the rotor shaft and gearbox, connections between the main bearing and the machine carrier housing, the gearbox to generator, or at the pitch gear or ring gear. They increase the friction co-efficient between two components.