From the Sector

Fong’s Europe will showcase the advanced features of its THEN Smartflow TSF at ITMA 2023.

These include the machine’s smart fabric transport system which ensures extremely even dyeing of the fabric through accurate control of the nozzle pressure and pump power, with movement through the machine via an PLC-controlled plaiting system and variable chamber adjustment depending on fabric characteristics.

The machine is equipped with a heat exchanger enabling it to heat the dyeing liquor quickly and efficiently, to reduce energy consumption. Its bath preparation unit and chemical dosing system ensure accurate and precise dosing of chemicals, dyestuff and salt, reducing chemical waste and optimising results while reducing process times.

The Smartflow TSF operates with a low liquor ratio of down to 1:2.5 with full loading of synthetic fabrics, which means that it requires less water to dye a given amount of fabric compared to traditional dyeing machines. This not only reduces the consumption of water and steam, but also the amount of wastewater generated.

The machine's control panel is easy to use, allowing operators to programme and monitor processes with ease.

Candour Techtex, a Melegaon JR Group company, is satisfied with the latest coating and lamination line supplied by UK’s Amba Projex and has ordered a second, wider one to meet increasing demand.

Based in High Peak near Manchester, BTMA member Amba Projex has over 40 years’ experience in the design and manufacture of special purpose technical textile machines, with coating and laminating installations around the world.

Amba will be working closely with Candour over the next five years, to establish an Indian technical textiles powerhouse capitalising on the UK technology provider’s long experience in the field.

Formerly Chandni Textiles Engineering Industries, Candour Techtex of the Malegaon JR Group assumed its new name in 2022 to reflect its focus on a wide range of technical textiles at its new plant in Malegaon in the Nashik District of Maharashtra.

The company was founded in 1986 and at its existing plant in Ankleshwar, Gujarat, produces an annual 1.2 million metres of light velvet fabrics mainly for the domestic market for apparel and light home furnishings. In 2020 it also began operations at a plastic moulded components division in Gonde, Nashik, with a capacity of 4,500 tons per annum.

Blackout fabrics
In particular, the new Amba Projex system enables blackout fabrics to be produced efficiently and at scale.

Blackout fabrics are installed in rooms where complete light shielding is required, such as in public institutions like hospitals, and retirement homes, in hotels and conference rooms, and also in the home, especially in bedrooms.

They obtain their light impermeability by a special three-layer blackout coating which works on textiles of all colours. Only the middle layer of the three coatings needs to be black for obtaining the necessary light absorption. The fabrics are usually also treated for permanent flame-retardancy, and also with water or stain-repellent finishes. In addition to locking out light and providing maximum privacy, blackout curtains also help to insulate a home and reduce energy costs, in addition to protecting furniture and carpets from fading due to sunlight exposure.

At ITMA 2023 in Milan from June 8-14, Fong’s Europe will introduce its latest THEN Synergy Airflow and THEN Airjetwin machines, which exploit the principle to provide high-quality, efficient and eco-friendly dyeing processes for a variety of fabrics.

“THEN introduced its first machines with Airflow technology in 1980 and since then we have had wide experience of pretreating and dyeing with Airflow transport systems on all kind of fabrics,” says Fong’s Europe Director of Sales and Marketing Richard Fander. “Our team of engineers has collected data on dyeing processes, results and consumption figures for years and constantly makes use of this accumulated know-how to optimise the processes of our customers.

“The THEN team understands Airflow dyeing processes and technology based on it guarantees the lowest liquor ratio on round shape machines. The transport of fabric by air reduces the liquor ratio compared to every kind of hydraulically driven transport system.”

He adds that while not every fabric can be dyed and treated on Airflow machines with the same handle and appearance as on hydraulic round shape or long shape machines, where it is applicable, it can lead to significant savings of up to 35% in water, 50% in salt, 20% in dyestuffs and 30% in process time.

The THEN Airflow dyeing machines have several features, including several parallel functions for reducing process time. The VPR system shortens the rinsing time and water usage and the robust and homogeneous spraying device in the nozzle ensures a uniform dyeing in the shortest process time. The very short liquor ratio also reduces the use of salt and chemicals.

When the nonwoven industry meets at the leading trade fair INDEX in Geneva from 18 to 21 April, Mahlo GmbH + Co KG awaits trade visitors from all over the world to inform them about the right measurement technology enabling more efficient and high-quality production of nonwovens.

With a wide range of sensors, different measuring techniques and the corresponding measuring bridges, practically all tasks regarding the control of basis weight, moisture, thickness, fibre content, and air permeability can be solved in a cost-efficient and practical way.

As an example, Wulbeck mentions spunlace products. They mainly consist of fibres such as cotton, PE, PET or rayon. They absorb light in the near-infrared range. Water and all other materials have different spectral ranges and can thus be distinguished. The near-infrared sensor Infrascope NIR determines the moisture content and the basis weight of different materials by attenuating the light in certain wavelengths. Due to its very high spectral resolution, the sensor can distinguish between components with very similar but not identical IR absorption and achieves high measurement accuracy. "Up to 0.05 g/m2 of the respective coating weight is possible," says Wulbeck.

"We want to support manufacturers in optimising their production processes and thus also the end product," says Matthias Wulbeck, Mahlo product manager for QCS. Because, like many other industries, the nonwoven sector is struggling with challenges such as rising prices for energy and raw materials, long delivery times and uncertain supply chains. In order to continue to produce economically and on time, it is therefore necessary to save resources and avoid faulty production as well as unnecessary process times. "Our Qualiscan QMS measurement and control system helps to do just that."

• Longer parking times for greater efficiency

Since 2018, Oerlikon Barmag has been offering the market’s only currently available concept for high-end home textile applications using the POY and DTY process. The spinning concept with the WINGS HD winding unit in conjunction with an automatic eAFK Big V Multispindle texturing machine manufactures high-titer yarns with maximum machine efficiency.
 
“We have correspondingly modified WINGS HD in order to once again better align the increased requirements of these special yarns to the spinning process and make everyday production even simpler for our customers”, comments Stephan Faulstich, POY Process Technology Manager. The parking times are extremely short when winding high titers. We have increased the parking times by up to three times in the case of the new WINGS HD models. To this end, the parking time for a 300d/384f yarn, for example, has been increased from a standard 6.5 min. to 15.7 min. – and, in the case of a 400d/192f yarn, from 4.3 min. to 10.3 min. This makes the doffing process more even, hence increasing doffing reliability.

At the same time, the draw unit now has a more flexible design, meaning that two-godet operation is also possible in the case of products with low overall titers. This has a positive impact on the winding unit’s energy consumption.

12 POY packages of up to 600d/576f (final) are produced in the spinning process using WINGS HD 1800. This is made possible as a result of an additional godet, which ensures that the high yarn tensions developing in the process are reduced to the yarn tensions common in the case of the winding process to date. At the same time, the newly-developed suction unit with the accompanying yarn cut-ting device (yarn collecting system) ensures – both during string-up and in the event of a yarn break – reliable handling of the yarn with an overall titer of 7,200 den (final).

Whereas DTY yarns up to 1,200 den and with up to 784 filaments have in the past, as standard, been plied from four POY 300d/192f bobbins using DTY machines, high titers can also be manufactured directly using the WINGS HD take-up machine. Combining the WINGS HD and the eAFK Big V allows all available winding positions to be utilized during texturing.

• Formula 1 cars will be cheaper in future

Carbon is the stuff Formula 1 cars are made of, at least the bodywork. But until now, carbon has been expensive. It can be produced more cheaply and efficiently if artificial intelligence monitors the production processes. A camera system combined with artificial intelligence automatically detects defects in the production of carbon fibres. This makes expensive manual inspection of the carbon fibres obsolete and the production price of the carbon fibre can be reduced in the long term.

For this idea, the young engineer Deniz Sinan Yesilyurt received the second prize of the "Digitalisation in Mechanical Engineering" Young Talent Award on 6 December.

Carbon fibres are sought after because of their good properties. They are very light - they weigh up to 50 percent less than aluminium. The combination of low weight and good mechanical properties offers many advantages. Especially in times of the energy transition, lightweight materials like carbon are more relevant than ever before. At the same time, carbon fibres are as resistant to external stresses as metals. However, achieving these good properties of carbon fibres is very complex.

Up to 300 individual fibre strands - bundles of individual fibres - have to be monitored simultaneously during production. If carbon fibres tear, it costs time and money to sort out the damaged fibres. This is just one example of various defects that can occur in the fibres during production.

Therefore, Deniz Sinan Yesilyurt attached a camera to the carbon fibre line that takes pictures of various fibre defects during production and collects them in a database. The artificial intelligence in the camera's information technology system evaluates the fibre defects by assigning the images to predefined reference defects. In doing so, it recognises various fibre defects with a classification accuracy of 99 per cent. The process can also be used in other areas that produce chemical fibres.

Deniz Sinan Yesilyurt received the prize from the German Engineering Federation (VDMA) in Frankfurt am Main, Germany. He is a Bachelor's graduate at the Institut für Textiltechnik (ITA) of RWTH Aachen University. The full title of his bachelor's thesis is: "Development of a Kl-supported process monitoring using machine learning to detect fibre damage in the stabilisation process". The VDMA awarded the prize to a total of four theses from different universities. The prize is awarded for outstanding theses and was offered in Germany, Austria and Switzerland.

TEXCOM has recently started up two new BRÜCKNER POWER-FRAME stenters for knitted fabric with eight compartments and lubrication-free vertical chain and direct gas heating. This is already the 5th BRÜCKNER line purchased by TEXCOM and the successful continuation of the cooperation with BRÜCKNER since 1979. The third member of this successful alliance is the commercial agency, MAPEKO, which has been active for BRÜCKNER for several decades and in the 3rd generation.

With 3 production plants, a commercial office and 6 sales stores distributed around the country, TEXCOM manufactures and distributes knitted fabrics for a highly demanded market, where sports, technical, fashion and workwear fabrics stand out. The company's own developments, such as Twintex, Polisap, Neodry, Sense, Texcom antibacterial, among other brands, are perfect for sports and leisure due to their technical attributes. The company attaches great importance to the fact that all processed materials have the appropriate current environmental certificate (Öko Tex Standard 100, BlueSign and ZDHC)and efficient as well as responsible chemicals are used.

With more than 100 circular knitting machines and a wide range of possibilities for rotary printing, sublimation, lamination as well as special finishes such as antibacterial or hydrophilic, TEXCOM produces premium sports and leisure wear. This includes the official jersey of Argentina's national soccer team.

Rieter is presenting the latest innovations in its systems, components and services at the upcoming India ITME 2022 in Uttar Pradesh (India), taking place from December 8 – 13, 2022.

Autoconer X6
The automatic winding machine Autoconer X6 completes the Rieter ring and compact-spinning systems. The machine serves as the final quality assurance in the ring and compact-spinning process and is key to the performance of the subsequent process stages. The Multilink system with Multilot offers maximum flexibility to handle a different type of yarn.

The latest splicer generation OZ1 and OZ2 provides an optimum splice quality based on an open prism. With only two prisms spinning mills can splice the entire spectrum of cotton yarns as well as blends. They are also used for the splicing of cotton-based elastic core yarns in combination with the Elastosplicer. The splice zone exhibits an impressive elasticity in the fabric.

Compacting Solutions
The Rieter compacting devices include the COMPACTapron, COMPACTeasy and COMPACTdrum. Spinning mills can change quickly between ring and compact yarn and offer customers a broader product range.

Recycling Expertise from Rotor to Ring
Rieter offers solutions for the integration of recycled raw material into yarn production to help close the textile loop and make fashion more circular. Both rotor and ring yarns can be produced with a considerable amount of mechanically recycled fibers.

ESSENTIALorder
Based on existing customer information, the webshop ESSENTIALorder visualizes which Rieter machines andn systems are available inside each spinning mill. It therefore offers a personalized shopping experience and facilitates order management, enabling spinning mills to optimize their internal stock levels.

ROBOspin
The piecing robot ROBOspin reduces personnel requirements in the ring spinning section by 50%. The robot also attains productivity increases thanks to higher spindle speeds at equal or higher efficiency.

SSM NEO-FD
SSM is presenting NEO-FD, the assembly-winding machine for precision wound packages for twisting. It meets all requirements for efficient production. The machine features the auto-doffing option and the online back-pressure system for low and high package densities.

Temco CoolFlow Disc
Temco’s CoolFlow texturing discs offer longer lifetime thanks to a brand-new geometry and the latest polyurethane technology. The texturing discs now generate a disc surface that operates at a lower temperature, resulting in slower ageing and abrasion. Further benefits are more stable yarn quality, higher productivity, and an overall process cost reduction.

The identification of profitable new niche markets has been central to the success and continuous expansion of Germany’s Dolinschek, a leading knitting, dyeing and finishing specialist, located in Burladingen in Baden-Württemberg.

“There is so much more to textiles than just clothing,” says Theo Dolinschek, who runs the company with his brother Erwin. “We handle many different technical materials such as automotive components, geotextiles and wallcoverings, but also those for more unusual applications such as inlays for extractor hoods, cut protection fabrics and even wool felts which are employed as insulation on wind turbines.

“We have also recently started to produce compression stockings in a variety of colours, because not everyone wants them black, beige or skin coloured. The most important product areas for us now are in sportswear, corsetry and lingerie, as well as orthopedic and medical products, workwear and protective clothing, but in addition, many other technical applications.”

The Dolinschek brothers moved their business to the historic site of the former Ambrosius Heim textile company in Burladingen in 2001 in order to expand. At the time, the company – founded by their father in 1980 as a textile wholesaler before moving into dyeing – employed just 13 people. Within a year, the company had bought additional space at the site.

Now, with Theo in charge of technology and sales, and Erwin responsible for production, the company employs almost 100 people and operates on an integrated site of 35,000 square metres.

In 2005, a laminating department was established by the company and since 2012 investment in knitting machines has been ongoing.

“The further we went into vertical integration, the more of our own products we were able to position on the market and so we were also able to make ourselves more independent,” says Theo. “We have continued to develop and today we can produce high-quality fabrics for many fields, with 42 knitting machines, 36 dyeing machines, three stenter frames and many other production and processing machines.”

Dolinschek has also developed its own proprietary TMG dyeing machines which have subsequently been successfully sold to many other companies all over the world. There are currently 11 of these machines  in operation at the Burladingen site and around 45 installed at other companies.

For finishing technology, however, the company relies on Monforts, and has installed a new seven chamber Montex TwinAir stenter range with a Montex®Coat coating unit in knife execution, enabling the coating of dimensionally stable knitted fabrics with polyurethane or acrylate. Another unique feature is the Teflon-coated (non-stick) transportation belt through the system.

The Montex line is also equipped with integrated heat recovery and exhaust gas purification to ensure the most resource-efficient processing available on the market. The exhaust air goes from the Monforts heat recovery system into an existing air/water heat recovery system and then into an electrostatic precipitator.

Highly-intuitive Monforts Qualitex visualisation software allows all machine functions and process parameters to be assessed and controlled easily.

International technology group ANDRITZ has received an order from Welspun Advanced Materials, India, to supply a Metris predictive maintenance system for its spunlace production line at the Telangana plant. This will be the first Metris solutions system to be installed in a spunlace line in India.

The integrated Metris platform developed by ANDRITZ uses smart sensors as an energy self-sufficient and seamless support solution to monitor machine conditions continuously, even in areas that are difficult to access. As a result, analysis of the data collected allows clients to pinpoint every possible issue upfront and helps to enhance line performance.

The Metris predictive maintenance system will enable Welspun Advanced Materials to increase its operating efficiency by:

• avoiding unexpected line shutdowns, thus increasing performance
• enabling easy operation along the entire line
• optimizing maintenance organization and planning

This order follows the start-up of the newly installed, complete high-speed ANDRITZ spunlace line at the Telangana plant.