From the Sector

Archroma launches Smartrepel® Hydro SR liq, a new PFC-free* technology for the repellence of water-based stains.

The innovation has been developed in line with the principles of “The Archroma Way to a Sustainable World: Safe, efficient, enhanced, it’s our nature”.

Smartrepel® Hydro SR liq is the latest addition to a range of micro-encapsulated, highly biodegradable, non-PFC based technology offering durable water repellency to all cotton and synthetic fibers, and their blends.

The new Smartrepel® Hydro SR liq has been specifically developed for soil repellent finishes aiming to offer protection against water-based stains such as coffee, red wine and ketchup, in applications such as home textiles, table clothes upholstery, car seats and interior textiles.

The new grade offers the signature Smartrepel® high performance standard: a symbiosis of water protection, soil repellence, breathability and durability – with the soft hand-feel that is sought after by consumers.

The Smartrepel® product range supports the increasing adoption of eco-advanced materials and production processes by textile producers and brand owners adhering to standards such as ZDHC, bluesign and Oeko-tex.

The story started with a huge market demand for the industrial synthesis of Indigo during the late nineteen century. The first Industrial Synthesis of Indigo, Indigo Pure BASF, was successfully manufactured and introduced into the market by BASF in July 1897. It was a significant achievement for the German Chemical Industry.

Over the years, the product has made revolutionary changes to the supply chain. New technologies enabled the transformation of Synthetic Indigo Powder application to pre-reduced DyStar® Indigo Vat 40% Solution. Being the pioneer in the market, the pre-reduced solution set an important industry milestone when it was first launched in 1998.

DyStar’s innovation remains a core catalyst in our chemistry research and development journey. When the DyStar® Indigo Vat 40% Solution was introduced, the core intelligence lies behind the benefits from Sustainability to Health and Safety. The technology transforms Indigo into its soluble Leuco form, making the Indigo dyeing process more sustainable, efficient, and stable in production. In addition, workers in Denim Mills can be assured of product safety as well.

Similarly, in recent modules under Cadira® Denim, DyStar introduced the first salt-free Indigo dyeing process in history. The applied technology completely eliminates hydrosulphite in the application of Indigo.

Textile Groups Urge U.S. to Maintain Penalty Tariffs on Finished Products

The Biden administration should maintain Section 301 penalty tariffs on finished textiles and apparel or risk reversing once-in-a-lifetime nearshoring trends and undermining critical investments and jobs in the U.S. and Western Hemisphere, three key American textile manufacturing groups said today.

In a formal submission to the U.S. Trade Representative’s (USTR) office, which is conducting a four-year statutory review of the tariffs, the associations expressed strong support for the continuation of penalty tariffs on imports from China and warned of the consequences associated with removing the tariffs.

“A key aspect of [the Biden administration’s trade] policy is the need to maintain Section 301 tariffs, absent substantive improvements in China’s pervasive, predatory trade practices,” the groups said. Lifting the tariffs “would also do nothing to achieve the administration’s goal of easing inflationary pressures, as apparel prices out of China continue to hit rock bottom even with the Section 301 tariffs,” they noted.

The submission was filed by the National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) and the Narrow Fabrics Institute (NFI) and Industrial Fabrics Institute (USIFI) – both divisions of the Advanced Textiles Association (ATA).  The associations represent the entirety of the U.S. textile production chain.

“For decades, China’s illegal actions have undermined virtually every domestic manufacturing sector and contributed to the direct loss of millions of U.S. jobs. These devastating state-sponsored practices include intellectual property theft as well as pervasive state-ownership of manufacturing, industrial subsidies, and abhorrent labor and human rights abuses in the Xinjiang region,” they noted. “Cancelling these tariffs would create further unhealthy dependence on Chinese supply chains and embolden future systematic trade abuses as bad actors know that the U.S. will not hold them accountable.”

The tariffs were imposed on China beginning in 2018 in response to China’s continuing IP and related trade violations. China has since failed to comply with an agreement it reached with the United States in 2020.

TEXAID as a professional collector and sorter with roots in Switzerland contributes to this ecosystem to enable the textile-to-textile recycling.  The creation of Swiss Textile Recycling Ecosystem marks a key milestone in the upscaling of Worn Again Technologies’ recycling process technology with technology scale-up partner Sulzer Chemtech in Winterthur. It also supports its ambition to create a circular economy where non-reusable, hard-to-recycle textiles can be reintroduced into supply chains to become new fibers.

To cause a paradigm shift in the fashion industry and realize true circularity requires all members of the value chain to be on the same page and working towards the same goals. The Swiss Textile Recycling Ecosystem is a network comprising fabric and textile manufacturers, waste collectors and sorters, as well as retailers, brand owners and technology providers – all coordinated by Swiss Textiles. All these parties will cooperate to make their shared vision of a more sustainable fashion industry a reality, where used textiles can be recycled into new textiles.

TEXAID as a stakeholder in the Swiss Textile Recycling Ecosystem and as leading textile recycling company with over 40 years of experience will support the initiative through collecting, sorting, pre-processing and providing pre- and post-consumer feedstock to the Demonstration Plant. At its headquarters in Schattdorf (CH), TEXAID will investigate possibilities to automate the sorting and pre-processing of textile feedstock for recycling. Currently, TEXAID processes more than 80,000 tons of end-of-use textiles and footwear every year all over Europe and the US.

Due to the impact of the war in Ukraine on the automotive industry and vehicle production as well as of rising inflation, Autoneum is adjusting its corporate outlook for the 2022 financial year. The market recovery will be delayed by current developments.

Since the outbreak of war in Ukraine, new bottlenecks in global supply and logistics chains have been impacting vehicle manufacturer production volumes and thus slowing the revenue and earnings development of the automotive supply industry, especially in Europe. Current developments are accompanied by accelerated inflation and significant price increases on the commodities markets, which have been further exacerbated by the war. These are felt at Autoneum through rising material, energy and transport costs. With regard to the rising costs, automotive manufacturers and suppliers are now required to ensure a fair burden sharing as partners.

In addition, renewed coronavirus-related lockdowns in China are delaying growth in Asia. According to the revised market forecasts1), global automobile production is expected to reach 80.4 million units in 2022, which represents an increase of 4.1% compared to 2021. Growth will thus be significantly lower than was still expected in mid-February.

Autoneum will do its utmost to minimize the impact on the Group. Despite the present challenges, the strategy will continue to be consistently implemented with a focus on innovative and sustainable technologies for growing markets of the future.

Based on current developments and knowledge, Autoneum has updated the forecasts that it presented at the Media Conference, which had not yet included the impacts of the war as outlined above. Autoneum continues to expect revenue to develop in line with the market. For the first half of the year, the Company expects an EBIT margin at break-even level. On the basis of the ongoing collaborative discussions with customers to participate in the sharing of the sharply increased energy and material costs, Autoneum anticipates an improvement in the EBIT margin to 2.0 to 3.0% (previously: 4.0 to 5.0%) for the full year 2022. Free cash flow for 2022 is expected to be in the mid to high double-digit million range.

Autoneum is very well positioned for the transformation of the automotive industry towards e-mobility and sustainability. Our product portfolio is suitable for all drive types, whether internal combustion, hybrid or pure electric vehicles. The medium-term forecasts that Autoneum published in November 2021 remain unchanged positive. The timing of the market recovery will be delayed by current events and will also depend on further geopolitical developments.

Yanfeng, a global automotive supplier, recognized the performance of its European suppliers with its annual Supplier Awards. During a ceremony at the company’s European Headquarters in Neuss, a total of 13 suppliers yesterday received the awards in two categories.

With one Distinguished Supplier award and twelve Supplier Excellence awards in five sub-categories, YF evaluated its suppliers according to several criteria. The company’s vision of technology and innovation, as well as sustainability, were particularly important. Moreover, quality, cost, service and customer satisfaction were also assessed.

The award recipients from Europe were:

Distinguished Supplier Award:
- BASF Polyurethanes GmbH, Germany

Supplier Excellence Award – Quality:
- Industrias Alegre S.A., Spain

Supplier Excellence Award – Customer Satisfaction:
- DSSI International, LLC, Slovakia
- SIGIT d.o.o., Serbia

Supplier Excellence Award – Sustainability:
- HOFFMANN + VOSS GmbH, Germany

Supplier Excellence Award – Technology and Innovation:
- SemsoTec GmbH, Germany
- Lightworks GmbH, Germany

Supplier Excellence Award – Service:
- CTP, Czech Republic
- Milsped d.o.o., Serbia
- Prewave GmbH, Austria
- Schneider Electric SE, France
- SPARETECH GmbH, Germany
- Weber GmbH & Co. KG, Germany

Vom 29. bis 30. September 2022 findet die 36. International Cotton Conference Bremen statt. Organisatoren der Tagung sind das Faserinstitut Bremen e. V. und die Bremer Baumwollbörse. Die International Cotton Conference ist eine der bekanntesten internationalen Fachtagungen rund um das Thema Baumwolle und die größte wissenschaftliche Baumwollkonferenz weltweit. Die Teilnahme an der Konferenz wird sowohl in Präsenz direkt in Bremen als auch online möglich sein. Die Registrierung ist ab jetzt möglich.
 
Die Internationale Baumwolltagung findet im Jubiläumsjahr der Bremer Baumwollbörse statt. Der Verband wurde 1872 gegründet wurde und feiert in diesem Jahr seinen 150. Geburtstag. Die Feierlichkeiten werden auch auf der Tagung Einzug halten, unter anderem mit einem großen Gala-Dinner und einer Ausstellungseröffnung in dem Bremer Übersee-Museum.

Höhepunkte der Tagungs- und Jubiläumswoche

• Erste Verbandstreffen und Arbeitsgruppen am 27. bis 28. September 2022 in der Bremer Baumwollbörse, im Faserinstitut und online
• Offizielle Eröffnung der 36. International Cotton Conference Bremen am 29. September. Der Tagungsort ist diesmal die Handelskammer zu Bremen, direkt am Markplatz und in Nachbarschaft der Baumwollbörse. Die Handelskammer vertritt seit 1451 die Interessen des Bremer Handels.
• Am gleichen Tag findet die Eröffnung einer Baumwollausstellung zur Kulturgeschichte des Rohstoffs in Vergangenheit, Gegenwart und Zukunft im Übersee-Museum Bremen statt.

 
Die Baumwolltagung:
Nachhaltigkeit und Klimaschutz
Im Mittelpunkt des Programms der Internationalen Baumwolltagung Bremen stehen wesentliche Fragen der Nachhaltigkeit im Baumwollanbau, der Baumwollqualität aber auch der Verwendung von Baumwolle sowie ihrer Verarbeitung zu innovativen Textilien und anderen Produkten. Eine besondere Rolle spielen der Klimaschutz und die Fähigkeit der Baumwollpflanze, Kohlenstoff im Boden klimaneutral zu speichern. Zur Überprüfung der Bodengesundheit werden vermehrt digitale Verfahren eingesetzt.
 
Kreislaufwirtschaft, Transparenz und Rückverfolgbarkeit
Darüber hinaus beschäftigt sich die Tagung mit Prozessen der Kreislaufwirtschaft, bei denen moderne Methoden des Textilrecyclings im Mittelpunkt stehen. Auch die biologische Abbaubarkeit von Baumwolle wird erneut eine zentrale Rolle spielen. Last but not least greift die Tagung Fragen der Transparenz und Rückverfolgbarkeit innerhalb der Beschaffungskette auf und stellt effiziente, digital gesteuerte Kontrollmethoden vor.
 
Innovative Produkte aus Baumwolle
Des Weiteren soll die Diskussion über neue und innovative Verarbeitungsmöglichkeiten von Baumwolle Zeichen setzen und das Interesse an diesem biologisch abbaubaren und nachwachsenden Rohstoff steigern.
 
Keynotes auf dem Punkt
Wie immer dürfen auch die Keynotes mit Spannung erwartet werden, bei denen Branchenpersönlichkeiten Herausforderungen innerhalb der Weltwirtschaft und der Politik kritisch thematisieren.

AkzoNobel has updated its Q2 outlook based on the impact of the evolving business environment, including the effect of China lockdowns and the slower start to the EMEA DIY season.

Overall demand signs for paints and coatings remain robust, with North America still constrained in raw material availability and logistics, but sequentially improving. In Europe in particular, macro-economic uncertainty related to consumer confidence has increased.

Consumer demand in the Deco DIY channels in Europe – which represent 40% of total Deco EMEA revenue – got off to a slow start in Q2, subsequently impacted by inventory reductions in the DIY channel. In June, Deco DIY channel demand improved back to 2019 levels. Despite share gains and our Deco Professional business performing as anticipated, the total Q2 operating income for our Decorative Paints segment is expected to be down by approximately €50 million versus expectations entering the second quarter.

COVID-19 lockdowns in China during Q2 impact both paints and coatings. This impact was mainly on our coatings business, while paints was able to almost offset by progressing with its geographical expansion initiatives. The re-opening in June is showing a positive rebound, but not enough to catch up on all the missed revenue in the quarter, resulting in a negative operating income impact of approximately €40 million for the quarter, versus expectations entering Q2.

AkzoNobel continues to focus on achieving its €2 billion adjusted EBITDA target for 2023, despite the volatile market environment having a material impact on the company’s Q2 2022 financials.

Für Studierende des Departements Design & Kunst der Hochschule Luzern ist die Werkschau ein Highlight am Ende des Studiums. Nach zwei Jahren Pandemie findet die Ausstellung erstmals wieder ohne Einschränkungen statt: Sie läuft vom 24. Juni bis 3. Juli 2022 in Luzern-Emmenbrücke. Ab 18. Juni läuft die Abschlussausstellung des Master Kunst in Brunnen SZ.

Was haben Botticellis Blumen, eine Öko-Matratze und ein Tessiner Kehrrichtsack miteinander zu tun? Sie sind alle an der Werkschau Design & Kunst der Hochschule Luzern zu sehen: Rund 200 Design-, Film- und Kunst-Studierende zeigen ihre Abschlussarbeiten an der öffentlichen Ausstellung.
Die Werkschau findet vom 24. Juni bis zum 3. Juli 2022 am Hochschulstandort 745 Viscosistadt in Luzern-Emmenbrücke statt. Die 23 angehenden Absolventinnen und Absolventen des Master Kunst stellen zudem ihre Werke bereits am 18. und 19. sowie vom 23. bis 26. Juni in Brunnen SZ aus.

Erstmals ist die Werkschau in Luzern-Emmenbrücke vollständig analog. Die letzten zwei Jahre lief sie coronabedingt online oder als eingeschränkt zugängliche Ausstellung. «Das ist der krönende Abschluss für unsere Studierenden», sagt Jacqueline Holzer, Direktorin des Departements Design & Kunst. «Ihre Abschlussarbeit ist die Visitenkarte für eine Karriere als Filmemacherin, Textildesigner oder Künstlerin. Es freut mich daher sehr, dass sie ihr Können einer grossen Öffentlichkeit vor Ort zeigen dürfen.»

Die ausgestellten Bachelor- und Master-Arbeiten weisen eine enorme Breite auf, wie Werkschau-Leiterin Ursula Bachman erläutert: «Viele Arbeiten kreisen um Nachhaltigkeit, Flucht und Migration oder Gesundheit – alles Themen, die die Gesellschaft insgesamt beschäftigen und die unsere Absolventinnen und Absolventen aus einer ungewohnten Perspektive behandeln.»

ACG Nyström, a member of TMAS, the Swedish textile machinery association, will demonstrate the automated Talon 75 multi-ply cutter at the forthcoming Texprocess exhibition in Frankfurt, Germany, from June 21-24.

The Talon 75 is capable of cutting up to 7.5cm of compressed materials common to the sewn products and technical textiles industries. The machine is engineered to automatically pull stacked material plies from the spreading table to a modular, bristle-block conveyor bed for reciprocating knife cutting of patterns. Precise system operations with state-of-the-art motion control communications offer an industrial-strength solution.

Industry 4.0 ready
Eastman’s Talon multi-ply cutting systems are Industry 4.0 ready and equipped with the latest in condition based predictive maintenance technology. Their robust design utilises motors and amplifiers that automatically detect changes in critical components to notify operators well in advance of maintenance prompts. Also on display in Frankfurt will be Eastman’s ES-960, a material spreader capable of fast and easy spreading heights up to 20cm.

Members of TMAS will be showcasing a range of solutions aligning with the growing trend for more localised and automated textile manufacturing at the forthcoming Texprocess, Techtextil and Heimtextil shows which are all taking place in Frankfurt from June 21-24.