From the Sector

Sales expected to be realized in financial years 2020/2021
At ITMA 2019, the Rieter Group signed contracts for seven projects with Cotton & Textile Industries Holding Company, Cairo (Egypt), for a total volume of around 180 million Swiss francs.

The order intake for the first six projects in the amount of around 165 million Swiss francs was booked upon receipt of the down payment on October 7, 2019; sales are expected to be realized in financial years 2020/2021. The order includes deliveries of compact and ring spinning systems and is

• Circularity at the centre

PG DENIM, the designer project by Paolo Gnutti, is ready for several important events scheduled for the autumn with ground-breaking interpretations and a new – increasingly green – business model. The occasion is its participation in the Blue Zone at Munich Fabric Start (Munich, 3-5 September 2019), a space which is increasingly often reserved for companies and projects with a high innovation rate in the world of denim.

PG DENIM at the German exhibition will be presenting important product innovations, but most notably new concepts developed for the S/S 2021 season. The focus here is on circularity, seen from a dual perspective: the product with the no longer traditional alternation of seasons, and a sustainabilityoriented approach.

Seasons meet

The new PG DENIM approach is geared towards overlapping seasonality, with less and less marked separations between projects dedicated to the spring-summer and fall-winter lines. The collections by PG DENIM can thus be increasingly defined as a “mix of products without seasonality”. Its focal points are innovation alongside the concept behind the initial idea, as opposed to just the season. This trend, explains Paolo Gnutti, CEO and R&D Head at PG DENIM, is also due to registering the fact that seasonality – in terms of environment and trends – is changing at an increasingly rapid pace. As a response to this situation, the choice has been made to design new collections starting from macro-trends and presenting fabrics for garments which are “easy to wear”, suitable for both warm and cold temperatures, in a true melting pot  of weights and sizes.

The lines for the previous season are thus reintroduced and restyled playing with weights and sizes, within a range where flock meets ultra-light fabric bases, or where vinyl is combined with typically summer weights which shift the fabric towards the world of “paper” with crispy touches, resulting in extraordinarily lightweight and strong items at the same time. Also the GARAGE DENIM has been upgraded with fluid and smoothed touched for garments which are easy to wear and have a strong personality.

Partnership with The Denim Window

The PG DENIM season is also enhanced by its partnership in The Denim Window project, which has resulted in a limited series of Creative Capsule Collections, derived from the idea of bringing together companies which had already worked or were working together, trying to highlight – through small capsule collections – the best of what had already been produced by traditional businesses. This has resulted  in three trailblazing capsules, two of which designed in partnership by PG DENIM and companies the likes of M&J Group, Cadica and Greenwear. Several copies of these collections have been made to travel the world, and – after the official presentation in July – they will have a special corner, The Denim Window, in the Bluezone at Munich Fabric Start.

The “Circular Programme” and the five “Rs” of sustainability

Also the PG DENIM approach to accountability in production processes has been enhanced by implementing the “Circular Programme”. As part of our corporate vision, Italian-style production is combined with compliance with what have become known as “the five Rs”, that is to say key concepts underlying the design and manufacturing model: Reduce (everything you are not using), Repair (everything you can), Reuse (anything available to you), Recycle (all that is left), Respect (everything around you).

This is the philosophy underlying each individual process at PG DENIM, and leading to new specific programmes which have been its business focus over the past few months:

1) Reducing the environmental impact during the fabric dyeing phase in reaction and sulphurbased processes, where the use of chemicals has been reduced by 40%, water consumption by 50% and CO2 emissions by 60%, which has also resulted in better penetration and a better result in the crocking process. This has led to producing 10 new articles which will be launched on the market.

2) Recycling all waste from processing and after use, creating a range of garments where cotton is actually obtained from regenerating these two kinds of waste. In this regard, PG DENIM for now is the only company on the market able to process with a percentage of recycled product exceeding 60% of the total, whereas the average for this kind of manufacturing is generally about 35%.

As regards regular production, on the other hand, PG DENIM follows stringent international standards, including Dtox, Reach and Gots in all its processing phases, also using BCI cottons and the Organic Cotton Standard for raw materials. Last but not least, it was recently awarded the GRS (Global Recycled Standard) certification.

In addition to launching its new and expanded website, A. Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co. KG has issued two new publications celebrating the achievements of its major customers.

The first edition of Monforts World of European Textiles profiles a range of companies at the forefront of manufacturing in Europe serving a wide range of end-use markets – from high-end silk and polyamide fabrics for the luxury brands to nonwovens and technical textiles for digital printing, protective clothing, wallcoverings and more.

The seventh edition of Monforts World of Denim meanwhile charts the latest developments from the global market leaders in denim production. Monforts enjoys a global lead in the supply of finishing technology for the denim industry and is currently extremely busy responding to the interest shown at ITMA 2019 in its new CYD yarn dyeing system for this market.

Both publications are now available to download from the new website at: https://www.monforts.de/en/latest-news-media/downloads/

National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) President and CEO Kim Glas is testifying at a public hearing today in support of the administration’s efforts to crack down on China’s abuse of intellectual property rights through the use of the Section 301 mechanism, while also calling on the administration to include finished apparel and home furnishings in any retaliatory tariffs against China.

Glas is joining several other NCTO member companies today to testify at a U.S. Trade Representative hearing as part of the administration’s consideration of the Tranche 4 of retaliatory tariffs on U.S. imports from China.

From the machine to the assistant
"With our groundbreaking new M-TYPE DELTA sewing system, we redefine industrial sewing and enable solutions that were previously unthinkable," says Dietrich Eickhoff, CEO of the Dürkopp Adler Group, at the world premiere at the Texprocess 2019 in Frankfurt: "The sewing machine becomes an assistant, partner, helper and communicator. This is a significant difference to all previous machine concepts and offers an incredible number of new possibilities! "

The new M-TYPE DELTA sewing system is a fully digitized industrial sewing machine for materials such as leather, upholstery and technical textiles. Thomas Brinkhoff, Director of Marketing Dürkopp Adler Group, explains: "We produce the perfect seam with this machine, whatever the situation, without the need for conversion." This is ensured by the new smart sewing kinematics, which immediately achieve the best sewing results without having to mechanically change the machine.

The training of the operator is reduced to the absolute minimum, because the machine shows the user with video support what to do and how to do it right. With sophisticated sensor technology, the M-TYPE DELTA ensures that virtually no loss of valuable materials occurs through bad stitches or missing threads.

An integrated usage- or time-controlled maintenance assistant indicates upcoming work. Service work can be documented in the machine and retrieved at any time. This reduces machine downtime to an absolute minimum.

"Anyone who wants to sew individualized products industrially can gain the decisive competitive advantage with this sewing system," emphasizes Dietrich Eickhoff, "because the M-TYPE DELTA is perfectly prepared for use in the necessary machine networks such as our QONDAC system."

At ITMA 2019 in Barcelona from June 20-26 FONG’S Europe, a member of CHTC FONG’S International Group, will be providing details of its new THEN Supratec LTM hydraulic long-tube dyeing machine.

This machine is distinguished by the ability to vary the angle of the Then Flexkier for either dry (jet) or wet (overflow) mode dyeing, in order to optimise the dye liquor ratio – from 1:15 down to 1:4 – depending on the materials being dyed.

This translates into considerable savings in auxiliaries, water and energy.

The Supratec LTM is suitable for the treatment of both woven and knitted fabrics ranging from the most sensitive articles to heavyweight materials within the weight range of 25 g/lm to 380 g/lm, and operates at very low tension due to the extremely low lifting height between the variable nozzle and the plaited fabric.

“Existing Supratec machines on the market are providing excellent performance for a wide range of delicate synthetic fabrics, from polyester to polyamide with high content of elastane,” says FONG’S Europe Director of Sales and Marketing Richard Fander. “Heat-setting can often can be avoided, which improves the handle of the material and saves costs and the lengthwise-elongation of the fabric being treated is lower than on winch-driven machines.”

• Christian Bruch and Stefan Fida proposed to serve as new members of the Supervisory Board
• Hanno Bästlein and Christoph Kollatz will resign from their positions on the Supervisory Board at the upcoming Annual General Meeting

Prior to the Annual General Meeting of the publicly traded company Lenzing AG scheduled for April 17, 2019, the Nomination Committee dealt with the future composition of the Supervisory Board. It has proposed that the Annual General Meeting appoint Christian Bruch to serve on the Supervisory Board. Mr. Bruch has been a member of the Executive Board of Linde AG since 2015 and a member of the Management Committee of Linde plc since 2019. The graduate in mechanical engineering will contribute his extensive experience in plant engineering and various technical and management positions in internationally operating industrial companies. The Viennese lawyer Stefan Fida has also been nominated as a future member of the Supervisory Board.

As previously announced, Hanno Bästlein will resign from his position on the Supervisory Board at the upcoming Annual General Meeting in order to be able to increasingly devote his attention to his own business activities. Christoph Kollatz will also step down from the Supervisory Board for professional reasons at the Annual General Meeting in April 2019.

“We would like to thank Hanno Bästlein and Christoph Kollatz for their dedicated work on the Supervisory Board of Lenzing AG. Thanks to their expertise, they made a major contribution to important strategic decisions in the company. During his four years as Chairman of the Supervisory Board, Hanno Bästlein decisively supported the strategy of the Lenzing Group and thus contributed to the enhanced resilience of the company based on the expansion with specialty fibers”, says Stefan Doboczky, Chief Executive Officer of Lenzing AG.

• HPR is the highest status a plant can achieve for fire risk prevention and protection
• The site Beaulieu Fibres International is the fourth in the Beaulieu International Group to reach HPR status
• Underlines Group’s commitment to risk prevention at B.I.G. sites & to reinforcing our strong business contingency plan

Beaulieu Fibres International, one of the leading polyolefin staple fibre producers, is pleased to announce the achievement of Highly Protected Risk (HPR) status for its production site in Wielsbeke, a designation that means a facility meets the highest industry standards for property protection.

HPR status was awarded by FM Global, Beaulieu International Group’s (B.I.G.) industrial property and business interruption insurer for the past three years. The company offers B.I.G a unique concept that supports the Group in reducing its exposure to loss and increasing its business resilience. A dedicated worldwide team of engineers focuses on providing assistance and protection of its assets, helping the Group to achieve a higher level of risk protection.

The Beaulieu Fibres International site produces high performance fibres for a large variety of applications and market segments. It scored exceptionally well in its FM Global assessment which focused on aspects including fire protection, protection against natural hazards, mechanical breakdown of machinery, cyber risks and consequent business interruption.

Its overall risk mark of 83 ranks it within the top 25% of its industry for fire risk prevention and protection.

Commenting on the Award, Maria Teresa Tomaselli, Global Sales Director Fibres, said: “This HPR fibre production site reinforces strongly our supply chain security and demonstrates our engagement towards our customers and partners. Our contingency planning and risk management are essential, well-considered elements within our long-term business strategy to demanding sectors such as Automotive, Geotextiles, Flooring industries.”

• Lectra provides fashion companies with breakthrough solution that enables them to personalize at ready-to-wear production speed

Paris – Lectra launches its ‘Fashion On Demand’ offer, empowering industry players to uncover new business opportunities brought about by the strong demand for personalization in the fashion industry. Lectra is enabling its customers to produce on demand for the first time ever with an end-to-end offer that automates the entire personalization process from product development to final cutting stages. ‘Fashion On Demand by Lectra’, based on Industry 4.0 principles, is a fruition of four years of R&D with a hundred-strong team of experts, as part of Lectra’s strategic roadmap announced in 2017. There will be a progressive global rollout starting from January 2019.

The digital revolution has prompted consumers to demand personalized products and experiences nowadays. This is an advantageous business model for fashion companies, as it allows them to accurately match supply with demand, and solve a host of problems that regular business models usually face. By simply knowing ahead of time what and how much their consumers want, companies can produce in precise quantities and avoid overstocking and markdowns. In addition, as consumers pay upfront for their orders it improves cash flow for businesses. Fashion companies can use personalization as a way to outshine their competitors and earn consumer loyalty, by offering one-of-a-kind products that make their customers feel exclusive.

While on-demand production is an attractive business model that presents little financial risk, today, fashion companies are encountering huge barriers to entry for this market. Without the savoir-faire and appropriate technology, many companies have to rely on their standard supply-chain infrastructure that lacks the flexibility to create and produce these products. As a result, they have to develop independent workflows for each product, incurring additional production costs, prolonging lead times and even jeopardizing their existing production lines. By having longer delivery times, they face the risk of upsetting their loyal customers who have paid premium prices for their personalized products.

‘Fashion On Demand by Lectra’, is a game changer for the industry. Drawing from 45 years’ experience of working with international retailers, manufacturers and brands, Lectra developed this offer to break down these barriers and empower fashion companies to meet the specific needs of their digitally savvy clientele with best-in-class solutions. ‘Fashion On Demand by Lectra’, available in the form of two packages, one dedicated to made to measure, and the other to customization, is a turnkey solution that automates on-demand production right from order reception to production development stages and the cutting room. Companies can define the product customization criteria and range for each item depending on the package (such as altering product characteristics for customization and pattern adjustments for made to measure) and launch production processes right from the get-go, without interfering with their standard workflows.

Empowering customers through industrial intelligence 2/2

“Personalization, or rather, on-demand production, is going to be an industry-wide phenomenon. It is hence Lectra’s duty, as an Industry 4.0 pioneer, to think ahead of time, and spearhead this movement. Keeping our customers’ best interests in mind, we’ve worked with renowned personalization specialists from different countries to develop this solution. With ‘Fashion On Demand by Lectra’ we’re doing the unthinkable. For the first time in the fashion industry, there will be a comprehensive personalization solution that will be able to perform under the same market conditions as the ready-to-wear segment and produce the same, if not better, results,” says Daniel Harari, Chairman and Chief Executive Officer, Lectra.

This disruptive offer gives fashion companies a 360°-view of the entire personalization process, providing them with the visibility to streamline multiple production processes and manage complex individual demands from custom order to cut piece. Thanks to the supply-chain flexibility that companies gain with this innovative Lectra solution, they will be able to expand their product range and offer more variety, be it womenswear, menswear or childrenswear, and appeal to a broader audience and jump on trends without interrupting their existing production processes. They will not have to waste time on consolidating and communicating information from one production stage to another. This ensures smooth process flows and hence, quick delivery times that can compete with those of standard products.

PMsExciting news out of ISPO Munich, this year ROICA™ premium stretch innovations will be showcased within ISPO Brandnew, the biggest platform for sporty startups worldwide. The ROICA™ booth will have a new centralized position at ISPO Munich, with an even more centralal position, to lead the way toward responsible innovation. Make certain to visit the fantastic new collections created by ROICA™ partners that combine; function and contemporary values for the modern customer. Asahi Kasei, the leader in sustainable stretch guaranteed to wow ISPO attendees with the ROICA Eco-Smart™ family, an innovative range of the world's first responsibly made premium stretch fibers.
ROICA™ smart yarns are focused perfectly on responsible performance for the active sportswear, swimwear and athleisure categories. ROICA™ proudly presents sustainable solutions boasting impressive certifications:

• Global Recycled Standard (GRS) owned by Textile Exchange
• Cradle to Cradle Certified™ Gold Level for Material Health and Hohenstein Environment Compatibility Certificate - ROICA™ breaks down without releasing harmful substances.

ROICA™ will present The Modern Wardrobe concept in well-defined categories at ISPO:

• ROICA™ WARDROBE, fashion collections for Summer 2019 with beautiful premium stretch solutions.
• ROICA™ INNOVATION GALLERY, the latest textile performance innovations from partner mills that inspire creativityA rich fabric range that includes revolutionary ROICA Eco-Smart™ family of stretch fibers that are sustainably designed and the unique ROICA Feel Good™ family that promises a new level of well-being
• ROICA™ CLOSET: new garment designs from our experimental lab that highlight functional ROICA™ families.
• ROICA™ NOVELTIES DISPLAY, discover the latest ROICA™ innovations.