From the Sector

Bemberg presents fabric innovations and collaborations with fashion brands from the US and beyond

Bemberg will present a full range of new fabric innovations at Première Vision New York. These include manufacturers from around the world including Brunello S.p.A. and Cotonificio Albini S.p.A. from Italy, as well as luxury linings already installed at the Bemberg Lining Showroom in the heart of the Garment District hosted by CHH America. Relevant to report, the luxury yarn dyed jacquard linings made in Japan that can be customized following brands’ designs. While usually minimums are not met by emerging brands and start-ups, Bemberg decided to cooperate with a Japanese producer to offer customized yarn dyed Jacquard lining starting from 55 yards, per colour. Indeed, Bemberg will offer attractive designs, precious aesthetic while keeping its usual technical performances and the precious touch.

“On show in New York there is the whole process of sustainable fashion making,” explains Junshu Furusawa, Sales of Bemberg. “Indeed, through these fabric suppliers, we will be showcasing also new premium brand fashion range adoptions and collaborations with brands such as CAALO that is making its mark in the outerwear market with its Sustainably produced Functional-Luxury proposal

The participation at Première Vision New York is the second step of a global tour pointing to some of the most cutting edge design innovations on planet Fashion. #Bember2020 kicked off in Florence for Pitti Uomo, the next appointments will be ISPO in Munich. At each ‘sustainable pit-stop’ the company will showcase a different aspect of its multitasking and sustainable imprint.

In Florence, Bemberg™ presents an 8-pieces tailoring collection commissioned to and developed with students of the renowned Scuola Triennale di Alta Sartoria Maschile dell’Accademia Nazionale dei Sartori in Rome as well as with prominent lining manufacturers as Brunello S.p.A., Gianni Crespi Foderami S.p.A., Tessitura Marco Pastorelli S.p.A. and Manifattura Pezzetti Srl.

“We couldn’t have started the new year in a better and most promising way!” Says TAKESHI IITAKA, president of Asahi Kasei fibers Italia. The Japanese brand of regenerated cellulose fibers has tasked students at the Accademia Nazionale dei Sartori excellences. The designers of tomorrow created 8 contemporary clothing teaming up with prominent lining manufacturers that offered premium jacquard, striped and dotted materials in vivid colors that follow the seasonal trends. Yarn dyed options made unique by impactful contemporary designs that create interesting contrasts with the tailoring proposals.

In occasion of the fair Bemberg™ team will present “The Bemberg™ book”, a unique resource able to present the versatility of the precious fiber through partner’s material developments.

Oerlikon Neumag promises more flexibility in the color pattern design of carpets with the latest carpet yarn system BCF S8 at DOMOTEX 2020 in Hanover. All trade fair visitors can convince themselves of the possibilities for product differentiation in Hall 11, Stand A36.

Multi-colored carpets are becoming increasingly popular and the desire for significantly more flexible color mixing variants for product differentiation is increasing. Oerlikon Neumag has focused on this and developed the BCF S8, a platform that leaves nothing to be desired when it comes to the color separation of tricolor yarns - from mélange to strongly separated.

Over 200,000 different shades out of three colors
The core component in this process is the new, patent-pending Color Pop Compacting Unit (CPC-T) for an even more flexible and even color separation. Individually controllable air pressures per color in the CPC-T provide a pre-tangling, which results in an accentuation of the colors and thus enables over 200,000 different shades.

Color Pop Compacting also for PA6 yarns
Until now, it was difficult to produce highly color-separated or accentuated BCF yarns from polyamide 6, but in the future, this will be possible thanks to the CPC-T. Thanks to the new design, the CPC-T is now also suitable for processes with low thread tensions.

Bemberg™ supports the new generation of Italian sartorial style

In Florence, Bemberg™ presents an 8-pieces tailoring collection commissioned to and developed with students of the renowned Scuola Triennale di Alta Sartoria Maschile dell’Accademia Nazionale dei Sartori in Rome as well as with prominent lining manufacturers as Brunello S.p.A., Gianni Crespi Foderami S.p.A., Tessitura Marco Pastorelli S.p.A. and Manifattura Pezzetti Srl.

“We couldn’t have started the new year in a better and most promising way!” Says TAKESHI IITAKA, president of Asahi Kasei fibers Italia. The Japanese brand of regenerated cellulose fibers has tasked students at the Accademia Nazionale dei Sartori excellences. The designers of tomorrow created 8 contemporary clothing teaming up with prominent lining manufacturers that offered premium jacquard, striped and dotted materials in vivid colors that follow the seasonal trends. Yarn dyed options made unique by impactful contemporary designs that create interesting contrasts with the tailoring proposals.

The participation at Pitti is the first of a global tour pointing to some of the most cutting edge design innovations on planet Fashion. The next appointments include ISPO in Munich and Première Vision New York.

At each appointment the company will showcase a different aspect of its multitasking and sustainable imprint.

Following an in-depth analysis of the current business situation conducted by the new Group Management, Autoneum expects a net loss in the high double-digit million range for the full year 2019 due to the situation in North America and related one-time charges from impairments. Therefore, achieving the communicated mid-term targets will take more time.

A comprehensive assessment by the new Group Management focusing on Business Group North America and taking into account the course of business from January to November 2019 led to a revaluation of the situation. It has become apparent that the problems in North America are not limited to two US plants and deficient ramp-ups there. Accordingly, a comprehensive turnaround program focusing on operational excellence and the improvement of cost structures is being developed and implemented in Business Group North America.

As a result of the slowdown in the automotive industry and the continuing low market level forecasted in the medium term, the cost structure at the Group’s headquarters in Winterthur, Switzerland, has been adjusted, among other things, by selective staff reduction. To further reinforce new mobility activities, they will be concentrated at the Research and Technology Center in Winterthur. This will include the relocation of the Competence Center New Mobility from Sunnyvale (CA), USA, to Winterthur.

Due to the continuing losses of Business Group North America, Autoneum expects a net loss for the financial year 2019 in the high double-digit million range. In addition to current operating losses, this also includes one-time charges from impairments which are not cash-effective. To achieve the Group’s mid-term targets announced in March (“2019 Year of tidying, 2020 Year of transition, 2021 Return to sound profitability level), an additional year will therefore be needed.

The Bangladesh international player presents its unique eco-innovation path and a specialhigh-end capsule collection in collaboration with PG DENIM.

GENESIS:M&J Group comes back at the Denim Première Vison London (3-4 December) marking a positive end of the 2019, with new objectives for the future. The leading facility of the Group has affirmed itself as one of the most reliable international garment manufacturer, especially in denim market, and now it is time for another leap forward. The aim is to target more in depth the high fashion denim market in Europe with renowned proposals towards a more authentic, comfortable and sustainable denim offer.

The first output to underline the new approach is the high-end capsule collection realized in collaboration with PG DENIM, that premiered at the show
A collection where the great industrial experience and quality in garment manufacturing of GENESIS meets, in a perfect and inspiring contamination, the 100% Italian artisanal craft and unique interpretation of PG DENIM fabrics. A complete co-branding that has given life to unique garments with dedicated tags and hangtags, to show a fashionable, sustainable and high-quality final output, entirely produced in Bangladesh. The perfect meeting to provide a great example of how this collaborative path with European top-quality player could lead to a new positioning for the company.

The improvements achieved by GENESIS are enhanced also in the s/s 2021 collection with new trends involving eco-conscious fabrics such as organic cotton, recycled fabric and polymer, realizing blends with natural fibers like hemp & linen while working also with a wide variety of biodegradable materials. Technical fibers are also on the spotlight with an increasing importance gained by proofed lightweights such as waterproof. Moods like hyper blue, natural cotton colors, flat bright indigo mid shades or urban grey and reactive layers dominates the feeling of the new collection. In terms of looks and treatments the collection has developed several unique interpretations such as engineered garments, digital laser patterns, wester silhouettes, workwear, soft dyes, contemporary stripes, dirty green cast and eco-acid wash. A kaleidoscopic collection where technology and tradition meet one unique big trend: more sustainable than ever.

Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co. KG will be providing information on its extensive range of coating and finishing technologies for the production of nonwovens and technical textiles at the forthcoming Techtextil India exhibition.

“India is already a very important market for Monforts and there are exciting prospects ahead for Indian manufacturers of technical textiles, who are well positioned to capitalise on growth opportunities,” says Monforts Head of Denim Hans Wroblowski, who will be at the Monforts stand in Hall 4, booth C52 at the show. “India has one of the largest working-age populations in the world and a complete textile value chain for both natural and synthetic fibres.”

In addition, he adds, India’s government, through its Ministry of Textiles, has been actively promoting the growth of technical textiles through various programmes based on investment promotion, subsidies, the creation of infrastructure and the stimulation of consumption.

As a result, India’s Ministry of Textiles is forecasting that the growth of technical textiles in the country will be over 18% annually in the next few years, from a value of US$16.6 billion in 2018 to US$28.7 billion in 2021.

Value addition

High value-added technical products such as wide-width digital printing substrates, carbon fabrics for high-performance composites, filter media, flame retardant barrier fabrics and heavy-duty membranes are now being coated on Monforts texCoat ranges and finished with the company’s industry-leading Montex stenters.

“Since we acquired the technology that our coating units are based on in 2015, we have made a lot of refinements,” says Hans. “All of these developments are reflected in higher coating accuracy and the resulting quality of the treated fabrics. At the same time, our latest multi-functional coating heads offer an unprecedented range of options, with a wide range of modules available.”

The texCoat user interface is now equipped with the unique Monforts visualisation system and the magnetic doctor blade has greater power reserves. Options include a carbon fibre-reinforced composite coating drum with a more scratch-resistant surface and maximum rigidity and remote control which simplifies exact adjustment for the operator.

Montex stenters in special executions are meanwhile ideal for the drying and finishing of both technical woven fabrics and nonwovens and characterised by high stretching devices in both length and width.

“The European-built Montex range of stenters has earned its leading position in the technical textiles market due to the overall robustness, reliability and economy of these machines,” Hans concludes. “Whatever the intended end-product – and we continue to discover potentially new areas in which technical textiles can be utilised all the time – we have the machine specification and know-how to turn ideas into reality. In India we also benefit from the strong sales and service support of A.T.E. Enterprises.”

Texchtextil India takes place alongside World of Composites at the Bombay Exhibition Centre in Mumbai from November 20-22.

C.L.A.S.S. discloses five key and influencing brands with unique outfits already available in the market, that demonstrate how smart materials are able to deliver eco hi-tech valuable innovations. 

Five, completely different, contemporary lifestyles!

Among the first adopters of E.C.O. Kosmos shines Gilberto Calzolari, a luxury prêt-à-porter brand Made in Italy with a responsible soul, whose style is represented by the demi-couture dress: fresh, glamorous and romantic. Precious fabrics, complemented by the highest quality in production techniques and tailoring craftsmanship, bear the hallmarks of a brand with a strong identity that is in tune with the needs of contemporary living and reclaims the values of environmental sustainability as well as elegance and excellence typical of luxury Made in Italy. Supported by the CNMI Fashion Trust due to its environmental committment and unique design, the brand chose two materials of the E.C.O. KOSMOS cross-collection for the SS 2020 presented during MFW: the E.C.O. AURORA 50% AMNI SOUL ECO® -50% Standard 100 by OEKO-TEX® certified Cotton canvas and the E.C.O. SONICA Newlife™ stretch satin.

Closed: the German brand, founded in1978, focuses on great designs, small details and pure quality to create understated and advanced denim looks totally handmade in Italy. Closed selected the new amazing Candiani ReLast line, the range of market fresh responsible denim products whose objective is to introduce a 100% transformed innovative solution. The partnership between ROICA™ and Candiani generated a very special ROICA™ yarn realized only for Candiani. A premium stretch yarn that is boasting a GRS (Global Recycled Standard) version 4 certification, thanks to its high percentage of recycled content and appropriated process of transformation.

Within the premium brand adoptions of Bemberg™ shines Martin Greenfield, one of the world's most renowned tailor company. The company, founded in 1977 by Martin Greenfield, realizes hand tailored men’s clothing to meet the requirements of innovative designers, specialty retailers, costume designers, stylists and individuals. For finest made-to-order as well as made-to-measure suits,100% built by hand in their Brooklyn Factory, they choose Bemberg™ Yarn Dyed Lining produced in Italy and Japan for its soft versatility, unique precious touch and exquisite comfort.

My.Suit: Since My.Suit was founded in 2008 in NYC, their philosophy has been simple: provide their clients with a better way to buy a suit.  Their made-to-measure suits and tuxedos offer a better fit than traditional off-the-rack alternatives by accommodating as many different body types as possible, and can be made in a variety of fabric and style options to suit individual needs.  My.Suit utilizes a vertical business model: fabric mill, suit manufacturing, and retail locations, to provide a quick delivery time at an attractive price point. My.Suit has been using Bemberg™ lining to add style and comfort to their suit jackets for over a decade.  With a wide range of colors and designs, Bemberg lining complements their extensive fabric selection and helps us to create visually stunning suits that feel great and provides a personalized option to their clients.

un-sanctioned™ is an innovation-driven performance running apparel brand newly launched in September, 2019; founded on the belief that it’s time for running to give back to the environment all runners take so much joy from.  In partnership with Miti-Spa, un-sanctioned™ has developed and launched with two initial sustainable performance running fabrics called [ BottleKnit™ ] — a 100% recycled polyester made from plastic bottles. And [ WasteKnit™] — a 100% upcycled polyamide made from industrial waste blended with ROICA™ EF yarn for uncompromising smart stretch performance.

“Authenticity wins: climbing business in a sustainable way” – the discussion targeted the importance of communication and transparency for today’s industry, promoting responsibility and innovation.

A selection of 26 fashion industry top players to discuss how digitalization is impacting companies’ value, one of the most important parameter to be considered when talking about business. This was the fifth edition of the CEO Roundtable, promoted by Fashion and eBusiness, which took place on November 7th at Palazzo Parigi, Milan.

The denim ingredient brand ISKO, always first in line when it comes to supporting the industry in the development of best practices, was among the event’s main partners. The company shared its long-standing and well-established commitment to Responsible Innovation™, taking part in a panel tackling new models to blend together authenticity and innovation and thus responsibly succeed in business.

Fashion Magazine CEO&Editor-in-chief Marc Sondermann hosted the discussion, which started at 9.20 a.m. and involved Elena Faleschini, ISKO Global Field Marketing Manager, along with Nicolas Bargi, Save the Duck Founder&CEO, Francesca Toninato, 7 For All Mankind CEO and Stefano Modellini, Diana E-commerce Corporation Founder&CEO.

• A naturally advanced collection, a cutting-edge coloration technology, and a brand-new collaborative business model.
• TINTEX stands out at PERFORMANCE DAYS, the functional fabric fair for the sourcing in sports, work and corporate wear.
• Performance Days, Munich, November 13th -14th, 2019 –booth C08 / hall C1

The leading jersey manufacturer brings a new holistic and sustainable approach spun from the company’s DNA and woven in the mission to create Naturally Advanced fabrics.

The WEME collection - A/W 20/21
The new statement collection goes beyond intellectual and spiritual individual needs to embrace a communal vision blurring ‘we’ and ‘me’, ‘conscious’ and unconscious’, responsible innovation and creativity. Developed around the concept sub-collections ID, Superego and EGO, the range comes in electric and active tones and combines smart ingredients and processes to drive innovation by harnessing the company’s unique dyeing and finishing expertise.

The new fabrics are made from a mix of new generation fibers that enhance free movement such as REFIBRA™ by Lenzing, Q-NOVA® by Fulgar and the unique GRS certified premium stretch ROICA™ EF.  The smartcel™ powered ID sub-collection is defined by striped structures that simulate flaws on initially smooth and perfected surfaces and provides soothing, anti-inflammatory effects thanks to the inclusion of zinc oxide, provides soothing, anti-inflammatory effects. The “EGO” selection comes in rich purples, calm lilacs and feminine yellows and features natural fibers such as organic wool. The “Superego” is available in unique styles and colours, achieved thanks to Colorzen® and the Naturally Clean® finishing. Together these enhance the natural beauty of cotton and cellulosics eliminating harsh treatments and optimizing clean surfaces with vivid colors, and an exquisitely smooth hand feel. Transformed materials take such as ECOTEC® by Marchi&Fildi take the lead saving up to 77.9% in water compared with regular cottons.

COLORAU®
TINTEX’ cutting edge color technology which received the Sustainable Solution award in the May 2019 edition of Techtextil debuts in Munich. COLORAU®  was created with a Portuguese consortium constituted by premium realities and gives life to responsibly colored fabrics with antimicrobial properties, using natural dyes extracted from different types of natural plants resources that do not use salt in the production.

COLORAU® uses only compounds of natural origin such as thyme, boldo, peppermint, chestnut and gambier in the production of functional and sustainable textiles in a variety of fibers such as cotton, lyocell and wool. An eco-efficient and low temperature surface treatment improves the affinity between the textile substrate and these natural compounds. The technology features a selection of “performing” extracts for appropriate color fastness to light and washing as well as color durability and antimicrobial functionality.

CO.LAB

TINTEX is proud to announce CO.LAB, a smart and collaborative business model and a totally new supply chain developed in coordination and with the support of C.L.A.S.S.. The first sustainable and PETA-Approved collections are 100% traceable without compromising on quality and style. As co-leader and founding actor, TINTEX has invited Becri, Confetil and Pedrosa & Rodrigues, 3 leading companies, each producing specialized garment styles. The new collections are:

1. The ECOPERFORMER by TINTEX with Confetil collection meets the values of millennials and generation Z consumers. Sustainable, multitasking, gender neutral and designed to fit contemporary urban lifestyle. The collection comprises modern soft sports garment with fully transparent innovation values. The range flexes its muscles with the best sustainable and high-performative materials for comfort, ease and style. All selected fabrics are PeTA APPROVED VEGAN. Designed to win.
2. ‘LEGACY H20’ by TINTEX with Becri is 100% traceable and focuses on responsible water-management.
3. ‘SENSING SMARTS’ by TINTEX with Pedrosa & Rodrigues, a next-to-skin soft and sensual range of materials enhancing wellbeing and comfort while harnessing an innovative and responsible way of using chemical products for a greener and safest future.