From the Sector

On 21st October the Managing Director of Officina+39 Andrea Venier has joined a panel discussion in the prestigious arena of the Kingpins24 Digital Show. He contributed to the discussion with his and Officina+39’s point of view on “Water Conservation”, together with Emrah Özkorkmaz from Bregla and Taimur Malik from Stylers International, with Edward Hertzman from Sourcing Journal & Rivet as moderator.

Water crisis remains one of the top issues for humanity and 90% of the world's natural disasters are related to water. Officina+39 has been working hard to rethink the way water is used throughout the denim processes: Andrea's contribution emphasized the company’s practical and consolidated experience in this field, as in recent years their main objective has been to drastically reduce water use in line with UN SDG6.

Andrea pointed out how “fashion industry is still currently deeply rooted in a linear approach: make, use, dispose.” Accordingly to Andrea and Officina+39, the fashion world is becoming aware of this reality and is trying to reinvent itself in order to decrease the use of this precious resource and its negative impacts but there is still work to do in order to redesign a better sustainable model, where circularity should represent the new sustainability: circularity not only when it comes to the materials, but also to water.

In the textile industry water is used as the vehicle for colors and chemical auxiliaries but luckily today many technologies aim at significantly reducing water consumption. Officina+39 is really focused on this target: Andrea explained that “Officina+39 has developed the AQUALESS MISSION, a process suitable for conventional machines that leads to a 75% reduction of the water typically used in denim and garment laundry processes, using a waterless technology and saving costs for producers.”

Despite the start-up cost of investing in the development of sustainable technologies may discourage some in the industry, it is about time to realize that these actions cannot be delayed and that we will increasingly hear about water scarcity, water stress and water risk.

Andrea stated: “It is necessary to develop water management strategies and systems in any company: today there is ISO 14000 related to environmental management, but I believe that governments, brands and related organisations should think about an ISO related just to water management. In this way, every company can understand how much value can be generated in the medium-term and how much money could be saved by investing in this kind of technologies. To create new standards related to water management, we must change the approach.”

For its FW 22/23 collection, ECOSENSOR™ by Asahi Kasei Advance presents a high-tech fabric collection, which implements a new generation of values, with the aim of keeping nature, body and mind in harmony.

The whole collection is focused on advanced technology and environmental responsibility. Thanks to ECOSENSOR™ by Asahi Kasei Advance’s unique value-chain based on recycling technology, most part of its yarns are certified by the renowned GRS (Global Recycled Standard). Even the dyeing and finishing phases - key moments for  performance wear - have been certified by international labels such as bluesign® and OEKO-TEX® Standard 100.

The collection is composed of 7 outerwear fabric, 22 sportswear fabrics and 7 innerwear fabrics.

Among the compositions of the fabrics, dominant are the recycled polyamide (58%) and polyester (39%) yarns. The stretch component present in 22 articles of the collection is based on ROICA™ EF by Asahi Kasei - the sustainable recycled stretch yarn made from pre-consumer waste. In addition, 8 fabrics of the FW22/23 collection are made of Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei - the high-tech yarn born from the transformation of cotton linters through a fully circular, transparent and traceable process with an amazing precious hand, optimal moisture management characteristics,  whose end of life guarantees its biodegradability and it also carries GRS certification.

The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) President and CEO Kim Glas issued a statement following President Biden’s remarks on the global supply chain crisis and stressed the importance of investing onshoring and nearshoring:

"We appreciate President Biden’s call to ensure we are building more resilient and reliable supply chains and to invest in our manufacturing industries here at home, in his address earlier today.

There is a reason we got into this mess and there is a reason we have a global supply chain crisis. Years of offshoring production in a race to the bottom –exacerbated by predatory trade practices that have undermined so many manufacturing industries--has led to a tipping point. In fact, it was not too long ago that nurses in New York City and beyond were wearing garbage bags as gowns as our overreliance on Chinese production chains exposed severe fragilities in keeping our health care workers safe during the height of the pandemic.

China’s virtually unlimited and unrealistic pricing power coupled with its subsidies and lack of enforceable environmental standards strips benefits and undermines policy objectives, and leaves us in an untenable situation of overreliance on a foreign supply chain for critical products and raw materials. This must change.

We must hold China accountable for predatory trade practices that have offshored our industries and our jobs. We must onshore and nearshore more textile and apparel production chains out of Asia to the U.S. and also to Western Hemisphere trade partners. This has a multitude of benefits to ensure more reliability in production and also has remarkable job benefits to U.S. manufacturers and our allied trading partners who adhere to higher labor and environmental standards. Further, it will help address the migration crisis and grow better paying jobs.

Now is the time to we need to unlock long-term commitments to source product from the USA and from our Hemispheric partners.  If we moved another 10 percent of global production to the U.S. and the Hemisphere, imagine the benefits that could be achieved.  Ensuring further verticalization and investment in all aspects of the industry, from raw materials to finished products, is good for the American economy and workers in the U.S. and in the region.

Our industry stands ready to help and provide the solutions to onshore and nearshore these production chains that benefit manufacturing workers, the U.S. economy, our Western Hemisphere allies, and consumers.   Further, onshoring and nearshoring these critical production chains has remarkable benefits for the environment and addresses the growing, systemic and alarming issues associated with climate change.  

It is critical that supply chains mitigate risks so that we are never in this situation again.  We appreciate President Biden recognizing the value of onshoring these critical production chains and stand ready to work with the administration in these efforts."

Fashion 4 Development and C.L.A.S.S. Eco Hub are pleased to announce the launch of their digital platform called “The Reclothe’s Platform”. The digital platform, which is a joint venture between the two companies, is expected to add significant value to all the stakeholders in the fashion and lifestyle industry. The core objective of the Reclothe’s Platform is to be a one-stop source of information and guide for professionals and students in the fashion and lifestyle industry.

The ReClothe platform will feature current innovators highlighting the practices & solutions for textile and manufacturers, pushing the industry towards a greener and more sustainable standard. The platform will lead members into scalable and more responsible manufacturing processes, driving responsible innovation practices across all aspects of the supply chain, measured and proved.
 
The joint venture was created in 2021 by Fashion 4 Development and C.L.A.S.S. Eco Hub to support the United Nations Office of Partnerships for the Sustainable Development Goals. Both Fashion 4 Development and C.L.A.S.S. Eco Hub are recognized for their experiences working from broad perspectives to advance the sustainability transformation

Baldwin Technology Company Inc. will showcase its new portfolio of optimized LED-UV curing, IRdrying and automated cleaning solutions—all specifically designed for corrugated high-graphics printers—at the European Federation of Corrugated Board Manufacturers (FEFCO) Technical Seminar, held October 20 to 22 in Copenhagen, Denmark.

Baldwin’s FlexoCleanerBrush™ removes hickeys in four seconds and can clean plates within three to four minutes, increasing print quality and providing a cleaner, safer work environment. This automated cleaner removes fibers, debris and fine lines from printing plates at the beginning, during or at the end of a job, allowing printers to achieve optimal quality with minimal downtime—Baldwin has a proven track record of enabling significant productivity improvements for its long list of customers. Designed to replace all manual activities, this cleaning system eliminates skin contact with wash agents, increasing workers’ safety.

For wide-format flexo corrugated box printing, Baldwin’s AMS Spectral UV has engineered CorruCure™, a new generation of LEDUV technology that offers more than a 60% reduction in power consumption in an ultra-compact UV lamp head. This revolutionary solid-state curing system, designed specifically for corrugated LED printing, emits almost no heat or ozone, and accommodates width-switching. It also enables the curing of high-value decorative solutions, such as full-gloss, spot and matte coating effects on a variety of corrugated substrates, making it the ideal addition for product enhancement.

Lastly, Baldwin’s FlexoDry2™ infrared dryer, developed for corrugated flexo printing presses, utilizes patented Diamond IR lamps capable of reducing energy consumption by up to 30%, when compared to traditional IR dryers with aluminum or gold reflectors. Dramatically improved drying enhances color definition, and reduces or eliminates marking, while allowing full-speed printing. The system offers an optional integrated hot-air knife with temperature control to provide better surface drying. Taking safety into consideration, the FlexoDry2 comes with an integrated safety light curtain as standard and an optional camera vision system.

DyStar is pleased to announce the release of its eleventh annual Sustainability Performance Report. The report is written in accordance with the GRI Standards: Core option, while using the Integrated Reporting <IR> framework to communicate how DyStar drives value creation across multiple stakeholder groups in six capital categories, namely financial, manufactured, intellectual, natural, human capital and social capital.

In FY2020, COVID-19 has continued to present its challenges, such as the shortage of raw materials and rising freight costs. Gloomy global demand has also resulted in some raw and product material wastage in production plants worldwide, leading to increased non-hazardous waste output for FY2020. DyStar recognizes these global factors in play and will continue to make active efforts within the organization’s capability to reduce its environmental footprint in the years ahead.

The Group has set its sight on achieving the 2025 sustainability target of reducing its production footprint by 30% from 2011 levels for every ton of production. “We will continue to innovate and develop a wide range of products and processes that improve environmental performance and reduce carbon footprint across our value chain”, said Mr Xu Yalin, Executive Board Director of DyStar Group.

Mr Eric Hopmann, CEO of DyStar Group added: “We are also developing various projects in anticipation of future demands from customers as well as adopting more environmentally friendly technologies and improve our workflows and processes. Some of our projects include traceability programs, adopting renewable energy technologies, and digitalizing our business processes.” Understanding the importance of collaborative efforts to drive sustainability across the value chain, DyStar seeks to continually support industrial innovations and develop strategic partnerships to work towards becoming a sustainable and trusted leader in the industry.

Denim ingredient brand ISKO™ announces R-TWO™50+. Part of Responsible Innovation™, R-TWO™50+ creates high-quality denim that is less harmful to the natural world.

R-TWO™50+ reduces carbon emissions by as much as 45% and water usage by as much as 65%. An exclusive yarn spinning technology, patented by ISKO, uses a minimum of 50% recycled materials to reduce reliance on natural resources.

The fabrics are stronger and more durable, and have a good shape recovery, a soft cotton hand feel and dry up to 20% more quickly.
R-TWO50+ fabrics also have the Global Recycled Standard (GRS) certification, which provides standardised verification for recycled materials.

ISKO is also one of the first in the fashion market to achieve an ESG (Environmental, Social, and Governance) scoring, which measures companies’ sustainability and societal impact.

Buildings are responsible for approximately 40% of all energy consumption and 36% of CO2 emissions in the EU. Improving energy efficiency in buildings therefore has a key role to play in achieving the ambitious goal of carbon neutrality by 2050 set out in the European Green Deal. A new briefing from the European Pultrusion Technology Association (EPTA) discusses how composite materials can help improve the thermal performance of the building envelope to satisfy increasingly stringent energy efficiency regulations. The EPTA report, Opportunities for pultruded composites in energy-efficient buildings, explains how pultruded profiles offer durable,  low maintenance solutions which can help reduce both operational and embodied carbon emissions from buildings in applications including energy-saving windows, thermal break connectors, and solar shading and cladding systems.   

“Economic and population growth mean energy demand is set to rise, making energy efficiency measures even more critical,“ comments Dr Elmar Witten, Secretary of EPTA. “Regulations and standards will continue to push for lower U-values for building elements, driving the increase use of materials and designs which minimise operational carbon emissions. Pultruded profiles offer an attractive combination of properties for designers of energy-efficient buildings – low thermal conductivity to minimise thermal bridging, together with excellent mechanical performance, durability, and design freedom.“  
 
It is estimated that today, roughly 75% of the EU building stock is energy inefficient, meaning that a large part of the energy used goes to waste. This energy loss can be minimised by improving existing buildings and striving for smart solutions and energy efficient materials for new builds. Areas of focus include improving glazing systems, better insulation of envelope components, and reducing unwanted solar heat gains. The low thermal conductivity of composites is being exploited in components and structures that help to minimise energy required for space conditioning. 

• Energy-saving windows and doors
• Thermal break connectors and structural assemblies
• Solar shading systems
• Rainscreen cladding and curtain wall facades
• Building a sustainable future

Hexcel has collaborated with HP Composites S.p.A (HP Composites), a world leader in the production of carbon fiber components for automotive and motorsports, to develop carbon fiber Class A body panels. Hexcel HexPly® XF surfacing technology is being extensively used by the Italian component producer to manufacture external body panels and other components for supercars such as Alfa Romeo’s stunning new supersport sedans, the Giulia GTA, and GTAm.

With five production plants in Italy, HP Composites has built an impressive track record of high-performance composite successes on both road and racetrack. HP has combined this processing expertise with Hexcel HexPly® XF3 surfacing material, HexPly® M47, and HexPly® M49 prepregs, working to the highest standards set by the most prestigious supercar OEMs and leading motorsport teams.

Hexcel’s automotive composites portfolio is the result of decades of industry experience and the creation of strategic partnerships to develop and optimize leading-edge technologies. HexPly XF3 is an epoxy prepreg surface material, developed with processing input from the HP Composites team to address the challenges of producing high-quality Class A automotive body panel surfaces with excellent resistance to aging tests.

Applied as the first ply in the mold and after curing at 120-180˚C in an autoclave, HexPly XF3 produces a smooth part surface with no porosity, that requires minimal preparation for painting.

HexPly XF3 is supplied in an easy-to-handle roll format with good tack and drapability. After curing, it can be easily prepared for painting with a rapid sanding process. HP Composites has incorporated automated robotic sanding techniques for this finishing stage with the paint-ready HexPly XF3 surface providing excellent paint adhesion according to EN ISO 2409.

HP Composites typically uses autoclave processing for HexPly XF3 parts, maximizing weight savings and structural performance of the final components. In addition, HP has also developed its own proprietary press and compression molding processes, including Air Press Moulding® technology, compatible with HexPly XF3 and other HexPly prepregs for higher volume production series that require increased production rates.

“Our long-term experience has given us a detailed understanding of the critical features that influence how prepregs and surfacing technologies interact with different production processes,” said Abramo Levato, General Manager, HP Composites S.p.A. “The relationship we have with Hexcel is both highly technical and highly supportive. As a result we have a complete material package for high-quality Class A body panels that are formulated specifically with our requirements in mind.”

“Combining the expertise of HP with a strong technical interaction and collaborative dialogue, Hexcel and HP were together able to develop the optimum HexPly XF surfacing technology,” said Claude Despierres, VP Sales and Marketing, Hexcel. “With HexPly XF3 we satisfy the toughest industry standards.”

Suominen has launched a second nonwoven product, HYDRASPUN® Regal, that has received the Fine to Flush Manufacturer’s Generic Certificate from Water UK. HYDRASPUN® Regal was developed to meet the increasing need for flushable wipes that are dispersible according to the Water UK’s flushability standard.

HYDRASPUN® Regal is made of plastic free and biodegradable raw materials, containing only cellulosic fibers. It also has a low-level carbon footprint due to its high pulp content.

Suominen was one of the first nonwoven substrate manufacturers to receive the Fine to Flush Manufacturer’s Generic Certificate from Water UK. The first certification was granted for HYDRASPUN® Royal in Spring 2020.