From the Sector

• Record high: 12,338 (+19%) GOTS certified facilities in 79 countries in 2021  

Twenty years after its inception, the textile processing standard for organic fibres records new all-time high figures: 18 GOTS Approved Certification Bodies report a total of 12,338 certified facilities (+19%) in 79 countries (+11%).  

Among the countries with the largest increase in GOTS certified facilities in 2021 are Turkey (+61% to 1.799), Italy (+53% to 894), Germany (+19% to 817), Portugal (+35% to 608), France (+22% to 122), Denmark (+14% to 115), Switzerland (+15% to 61), Belgium (+55% to 59), Sweden (+34% to 51) and Vietnam (+264% to 51).

“What seemed utopian to many in 2002 has become a reality in the past 20 years. We have created an organic textile standard, certified by approved certification bodies, which is accepted in all major markets. GOTS is a standard that gives consumers the power to choose truly organic products sourced from sustainable supply chains.” says Claudia Kersten, Managing Director at GOTS. “Despite ongoing difficulties and uncertainty caused by the Covid-19 pandemic, decision-makers continue to pursue their sustainability goals and value GOTS as a tool to accomplish them”.

The results of the annual GOTS Survey among certified entities underline this. Out of 1.114 respondents (+39%), 63% indicated a permanent shift in their sustainability strategy with a focus on the environment and health of their workers and staff.

Growing interest from industry, the public, and the media drove website visits up an impressive 48%. Media exposure grew by 64% and GOTS social media followers across several platforms jumped by 57%.
“As much as we are pleased with the development so far, we don’t intend to rest on our laurels” adds Rahul Bhajekar, Managing Director at GOTS. “In March 2022 we begin revision for GOTS version 7.0 involving all stakeholders including associations, organisations, companies, and individuals to further advance the progressive, innovative, stringent yet practical standard of GOTS”.

• A springboard for entrepreneurs in the composites industry

In a few years, JEC Composites Startup Booster has became a reference for entrepreneurship in the composites industry worldwide. Each year before JEC World, among the startups that submitted their application, 20 of them are selected. 20 finalists from all over the world who will join the leading composites trade show to pitch their project on stage before a panel of expert judges.

This competition is a unique opportunity to network and shine a light on what will be the future of the composites industry so save the date: the two pitches sessions will happen on May 3rd, and the winners will be named on May, 4th at 2.45 pm at JEC World 2022 in Paris as well as online on JEC World Connect platform. This year’s competition is sponsored by Airbus & Mercedes-Benz (Main Innovation Partners) as well as Magna Exteriors (Innovation Partner).

Launched in 2017, Startup Booster has been organized in three different regions (Europe, USA and Asia) and has already fostered the emergence of 500+ innovative projects from 50+ countries, 80 finalists and 30 winners, including Arevo, Continuous Composites, ComPair, Fortify and Vartega…
This challenge not only represents an opportunity to the winners of the trophy but to all the parts involved: participants, jury, official partners and the worldwide audience of JEC World. It brings the entire composites value chain together, creating future business opportunities.

The 20 finalists are divided into two categories:
• Process, Manufacturing & Equipment
• Materials & Products

The jury includes representatives from major manufacturers and investors:
Jelle BLOEMHOF, Head of Manufacturing Technologies of Composite, Airbus
Karl-Heinz FULLER, Head of Future Outside & Materials Mercedes-Benz AG
Florent ILLAT, Head of Safran Corporate Ventures, Safran
Brian KRULL, Global Director of Innovation, Magna Exteriors
Tim VORAGE, Founder and Manager Growth Garage Accelerator , Mitsubishi Chemicals Advanced Materials

Two pitch sessions of 10 presentations each will be held in the Agora stage (Hall 5), on Tuesday, May 3, from 10am to 11.25am (Category: Products & Materials) and from 4.30pm to 5.55pm (Category: Process, Manufacturing & Equipment). Three winners will be chosen by the jury and one winner for the sustainable aspects of the project. The awards ceremony will be held on Wednesday, May, 4th at 2.45 pm.

Category “Products & Materials”
o Blackleaf (France)
o Dongnam Realize (South Korea)
o FibreCoat (Germany)
o FVMat (Israel)
o Ora Graphene Audio (Canada)
o Pangolin Defense (France)
o Phononic Vibes (Italy)
o Revolve (Germany)
o Smart Resilin (Israel)
o Space Walker (Japan)

Category “Process, Manufacturing & Equipment”
o Antefil Composite Tech (Switzerland)
o ANYBRID (Germany)
o Atomic-6 (USA)
o Carbon-Drive (Germany)
o Continuum (Denmark)
o Fibraworks (Germany)
o Herone (Germany)
o RVmagnetics (Slovakia)
o Touch Sensity (France)
o XARION Laser Acoustics (Austria)

Since 11 February 2022, the Industrievereinigung Chemiefaser e. V. (IVC) has been listed in the German Lobby Register under registration number R000411. German Parliament decided in March 2021 to introduce the register.

Following various cases of suspected corruption and the rather poor marks by Transparency International for the German federal states in a lobby ranking, calls for greater transparency had grown louder. The Lobby Register Act came into force on 1 January 2022 after it had been agreed by the political parties of CDU/CSU and SPD in long negotiations. Now the act obliges professional lobbyists to make an entry in the publicly accessible register, providing details about their clients and financial expenditure.

Since the IVC has already been registered in the European Transparency Register for several years on a voluntary basis, the Frankfurt-based industry association of major man-made fibre manufacturers in Germany, Austria and Switzerland is in favour of all initiatives that lead to more transparency in lobbying.

According to IVC's 1^st Chairman Klaus Holz (managing director of Trevira GmbH), the IVC sees the existing act as a first step towards strengthening the acceptance of organisations which seek and maintain political contacts. Holz deplores that many gaps and exemptions remain at the time being. He emphasizes: "It is up to the German legislator to bring about equal treatment of every stakeholder in the political arena in Berlin as quickly as possible, so that all those involved can meet on an equal footing."

Dr. Wilhelm Rauch, managing director of the IVC, adds: "We are also active on behalf of our industry throughout Europe for all issues relating to environmental protection and REACH. Therefore, it is essential for our work to know which organisations and persons we encounter in these efforts."

Sappi, a leading provider of sustainable woodfibre-based packaging materials, is expanding production of its successful Fusion Topliner grade to its flagship mill in Gratkorn, Austria. The Fusion Topliner – a white virgin fibre liner for high-quality corrugated packaging – will also continue to be manufactured at Sappi’s Ehingen mill in Germany. With this project, Sappi isn’t just expanding its production capacity in the corrugated board business. By offering the same product quality from both mills, Sappi is bringing production closer to its customers – to guarantee a sustainable and short supply chain in the heart of Europe.

• Sappi’s Fusion Topliner virgin fibre liner strengthens brand image and impact, and demand continues to grow
• Capacities are now being expanded through significant investment at Gratkorn mill, Austria
• Volumes will be enlarged in the next months to ensure reliable customer supply

Just a decade ago, there were only two options on the market for coated white corrugated liners: either kraft liner made from high-quality raw materials and with a very low recycled content, or test liner, which consists almost exclusively of recycled paper. As an alternative, Sappi developed its Fusion Topliner, now the most widely used corrugated liner made from pure virgin fibre. It is recommended for applications such as premium quality consumer goods packaging and POS displays – where high visual impact and differentiation are key. The product also stands out with exceptional strength and versatility.

Sappi’s Fusion Topliner has been successful on the market for many years. Demand for the product has continued to grow, due to its exceptional characteristics for print quality and finishing. Production is now being expanded from the German mill in Ehingen to include Sappi’s flagship mill in Gratkorn. The available capacities are now being expanded to include the production of Fusion Topliner in addition to existing graphic papers. Volume availability will be increased month by month to support the expected growth of our customers, and to satisfy large requirements in the corrugated board business.

• The 16th World Pultrusion Conference will be postponed to 5-6 May 2022

The EPTA – European Pultrusion Technology Association in cooperation with the American Composites Manufacturers Association (ACMA) will postpone the 16th World Pultrusion Conference to 5-6 May 2022 due to the corona situation and the postponement of the JEC World, with which there is a close partnership.

This conference takes place every two years and is the meeting point of the European and worldwide Pultrusion Industry. More than 25 international speakers from Belgium, Germany, France, Spain, The Netherlands, Turkey, UK and the USA will present practical presentations about innovative applications, technologies and processes. Equally current market trends and developments are on the agenda.
This World Pultrusion Conference takes now place on 5-6 May 2022 in Paris, France. The presentation language will be English. The program, further details and registration information is available at www.pultruders.com.

Latest trade data (January-September 2021) show a dramatic drop of imports and exports of textile goods between the EU and UK, with significant losses for companies on both sides. The situation is likely to get worse, as the full customs regime between UK and EU has entered into force on 1 January 2022. EURATEX calls on the European Union and the United Kingdom to effectively cooperate to remove the issues in the EU-UK Trade agreement that prevent smooth trade flows.  

All the sectors have been already suffering a significant loss in the past year and textiles has been no exception. Compared to the same period in 2020, between January and September the EU recorded a dramatic fall in imports (-44%, corresponding to almost € 2 billion) and in exports (-22%, corresponding to € 1.6 billion). The data show that the most impacted EU countries on the export side are Italy, Netherlands, Belgium and Germany while on the import side the most impacted countries are Germany, Ireland and France. Among the T&C sectors, clothing articles are facing the most severe drop in both imports and exports, corresponding to a total trade loss of more than € 3.4 billion over the 9 months period. Despite these alarming figures, the UK continues to be the most important export market for EU textiles and clothing.

Concerning the impact on the UK textiles sector, in May 2021 the UK Fashion and Textile Association’s (UKFT) surveyed 138 businesses, including leading UK fashion brands, UK textile manufacturers, wholesalers, fashion agencies, garment manufacturers and retailers.

The results of the survey showed that:

• 71% currently rely on imports from the EU
• 92% are experiencing increased freight costs  
• 83% are experiencing increased costs and bureaucracy for customs clearance
• 53% are experiencing cancelled orders as a result of how the EU-UK agreement is being implemented
• 41% had been hit by double duties  
• The vast majority of the surveyed companies declared they are looking to pass the increased costs on to consumer in the next  6-12 months

The above situation is expected to get worse. Since 1 January, full customs controls are being implemented. It means that export and import rules have become stricter: products should already have a valid declaration in place and have received customs clearance. Export from Britain to the EU must now have supplier declarations and the commodities codes changed.  

EURATEX calls on the European Union and the United Kingdom to effectively cooperate to address, solve and remove the issues in the EU-UK Trade agreement that currently prevent smooth trade flows between the two sides of the Channel. It is causing considerable losses for textile companies both in the EU as well as in the UK. 

Asia's largest fashion fair, CHIC SPRING SHANGHAI, will postpone the event planned for March to April 14-16, 2022. The latest worldwide pandemic developments due to the new virus variant Omicron prompted the CHIC organizers to take this step.

With this relocation, the organizers are also taking into account the interests of international exhibitors and visitors. In addition to various international joint stands, Germany will also be represented with a GERMAN PAVILION. The trade fair team is working on innovations at the trade fair with the highest priorities and will now focus the entire marketing on the new date.

CHIC SPRING is the showcase for the latest trend developments in fashion and offers trade visitors a concentrated overview. CHIC SPRING as a fashion and lifestyle fair shows the areas of womenswear, menswear, kidswear, denim, shoes and bags, accessories, designers and streetwear in clear segments at the National Convention & Exhibition Center in Shanghai.

CHIC is organized by Beijing Fashion Expo Co. Ltd. and China World Exhibitions, supported by the China National Garment Association, the China World Trade Center and the Sub-Council of the Textile Industry (CCPIT).

In view of the exponential worsening of the pandemic situation worldwide and the accompanying tightened travel and contact regulations, the consumer goods fairs Christmasworld, Paperworld, and Creativeworld are cancelled for January 2022 and Ambiente for mid-February 2022. The regionally-oriented trade fair Nordstil from 15 to 17 January 2022 in Hamburg will take place at the present time.

The easing of the pandemic situation that was still hoped for in December is no longer in sight. Instead, the situation is deteriorating worldwide with an enormous, unforeseeable dynamic. This extreme deterioration due to the spread of the Omicron virus in Europe and Germany currently makes it impossible for Messe Frankfurt, as organiser of the leading international trade fairs Christmasworld, Paperworld, and Creativeworld, as well as Ambiente, to keep their dates in Frankfurt at the end of January and in mid-February 2022.

The four events, consisting of Christmasworld with its focus on seasonal and festive decorations, Paperworld and Creativeworld with their product ranges for paper, office supplies, stationery and hobby, craft and artists' requisites and Ambiente with its cross-sector range of products for the table, kitchen and housewares, furnishing and decorative accessories, home furnishing concepts, gifts and fashion accessories, are the recognised leading trade fairs in their sectors and open the trading year in their respective segments. Even in a reduced numerical form, the four trade fairs would still have been the leading events worldwide for their respective product segments.

However, the exponential increase in the number of infections worldwide in a very short period of time and the accompanying multitude of developments and decisions that are clearly outside the organiser's sphere of influence have led to a significant deterioration in the general conditions and necessary prerequisites for holding the four leading trade fairs as major events of international relevance at the end of January and in mid-February 2022 respectively. These developments include the classification of Germany as a high-risk area and the associated travel warnings and international and intercontinental travel restrictions in countries such as India, Japan and the United States, as well as the corresponding quarantine obligations. Equally important are the steadily rising infection figures and the accompanying urgent appeal, among others by the Robert Koch Institute and the expert council of the German Federal Government, to continue to reduce contacts to a minimum and to cancel all major events. At present, there are even further international fears that the critical infrastructure will not be maintained due to the highly contagious Omicron variant. The majority of exhibiting and visiting companies at Christmasworld, Paperworld, and Creativeworld as well as Ambiente are currently reacting to this overall situation with travel and trade fair attendance bans for reasons of duty of care towards their employees to protect them from health risks. The global willingness to travel is dropping enormously at the moment.

There are no plans to postpone the event. Detlef Braun, Member of the Executive Board of Messe Frankfurt, explains: "Since the trend-oriented order cycles of the international consumer goods industry require an annual event at the beginning of the year, a shift to the second half of the year would not meet the needs of the exhibiting companies and visitors."

Nordstil to be held in Hamburg from 15 to 17 January 2022
In the interests of the sectors involved, the planning and implementation of Nordstil from 15 to 17 January 2022 is not affected. This trade fair will take place in the Free and Hanseatic City of Hamburg at this time due to other general conditions for local implementation. However, the extremely volatile situation is continuously reviewed and assessed in close exchange with the relevant local authorities and industry partners.

Messe Frankfurt's digital platforms for business success
Messe Frankfurt has already been actively helping retailers to help themselves since 2019 with Nextrade, the first order and data management platform for the home and living sector, and Conzoom Solutions, an information platform for the global consumer goods sector. "A second year without appropriate ordering, inspiration and networking formats poses considerable and in some cases existentially threatening challenges for retailers worldwide," Braun explains. "With our digital offers, we are specifically supporting our partners in industry and trade in this volatile situation. In addition, we will continue to put all our energy and optimism into safe and promising trade fairs. Because there is no substitute for meeting in real life."

Information on the planning of the Frankfurt consumer goods fairs for 2023 will be announced at the beginning of February 2022.

• More than 30 leading pioneers of the chemical and material sector welcome the latest political papers from Brussels, Berlin and Düsseldorf

The political situation for renewable carbon from biomass, CO2 and recycling for the defossilisation of the chemical and materials industry has begun to shift fundamentally in Europe. For the first time, important policy papers from Brussels and Germany take into consideration that the term decarbonisation alone is not sufficient, and that there are important industrial sectors with a permanent and even growing carbon demand. Finally, the need for a sustainable coverage of this carbon demand and the realisation of sustainable carbon cycles have been identified on the political stage. They are elemental to the realisation of a sustainable chemical and derived materials industry.

The goal is to create sustainable carbon cycles. This requires comprehensive carbon management of renewable sources, which includes carbon from biomass, carbon from Carbon Capture and Utilisation (CCU) – the industrial use of CO2 as an integral part – as well as mechanical and chemical recycling. And only the use of all alternative carbon streams enables a true decoupling of the chemical and materials sector from additional fossil carbon from the ground. Only in this way can the chemical industry stay the backbone of modern society and transform into a sustainable sector that enables the achievement of global climate goals. The Renewable Carbon Initiative’s (RCI) major aim is to support the smart transition from fossil to renewable carbon: utilising carbon from biomass, CO2 and recycling instead of additional fossil carbon from the ground. This is crucial because 72% of the human-made greenhouse gas emissions are directly linked to additional fossil carbon. The RCI supports all renewable carbon sources available, but the political support is fragmented and differs between carbon from biomass, recycling or carbon capture and utilisation (CCU). Especially CCU has so far not been a strategic objective in the Green Deal and Fit-for-55.

This will change fundamentally with the European Commission's communication paper on “Sustainable Carbon Cycles” published on 15 December. The position in the paper represents an essential step forward that shows embedded carbon has reached the political mainstream – supported by recent opinions from members of the European parliament and also, apparently, by the upcoming IPCC assessment report 6. Now, CCU becomes a recognised and credible solution for sustainable carbon cycles and a potentially sustainable option for the chemical and  material industries. Also, in the political discussions in Brussels, the term “defossilation” is appearing more and more often, complementing or replacing the term decarbonisation in those areas where carbon is indispensable. MEP Maria da Graça Carvahlo is among a number of politicians in Brussels who perceive CCU as an important future industry, putting it on the political map and creating momentum for CCU. This includes the integration of CCU into the new Carbon Removal Regime and the Emission Trading System (ETS).

As the new policy documents are fully in line with the strategy of the RCI, the more than 30 member companies of the initiative are highly supportive of this new development and are ready to support policy-maker with data and detailed suggestions for active support and the realisation of sustainable carbon cycles and a sound carbon management. The recent political papers of relevance are highlighted in the following.

Brussels: Communication paper on “Sustainable Carbon Cycles”
On 15 December, the European Commission has published the communication paper “Sustainable Carbon Cycles” . For the first time, the importance of carbon in different industrial sectors is clearly stated. One of the key statements in the paper is the full recognition of CCU for the first time as a solution for the circular economy, which includes CCU-based fuels as well. The communication paper distinguishes between bio-based CO2, fossil CO2 and CO2 from direct air capture when addressing carbon removal and it also announces detailed monitoring of the different CO2 streams. Not only CCU, but also carbon from the bioeconomy is registered as an important pillar for the future. Here, the term carbon farming has been newly introduced, which refers to improved land management practices that result in an increase of carbon sequestration in living biomass, dead organic matter or soils by enhancing carbon capture or reducing the release of carbon. Even though the list of nature-based carbon storage technologies is non-exhaustive in our view, we strongly support the paper’s idea to deem sustainable land and forest management as a basis for the bioeconomy more important than solely considering land use as a carbon sink. Surprisingly, chemical recycling, which is also an alternative carbon source that substitutes additional fossil carbon from the ground (i.e. carbon from crude oil, natural gas or from coal), is completely absent from the communication paper.

Berlin: Coalition paper of the new German Government: “Dare more progress – alliance for freedom, justice and sustainability”
The whole of Europe is waiting to see how the new German government of Social Democrats, Greens and Liberals will shape the German climate policy. The new reform agenda focuses in particular on solar and wind energy as well as especially hydrogen. Solar energy is to be expanded to 200 GW by 2030 and two percent of the country's land is to be designated for onshore wind energy. A hydrogen grid infrastructure is to be created for green hydrogen, which will form the backbone of the energy system of the future – and is also needed for e-fuels and sustainable chemical industry, a clear commitment to CCU. There is a further focus on the topic of circular economy and recycling. A higher recycling quota and a product-specific minimum quota for the use of recyclates and secondary raw materials should be established at European level. In the coalition paper, there is also a clear commitment to chemical recycling to be found. A significant change for the industry is planned to occur in regards to the so-called “plastic tax” of 80 cents per kilogram of non-recycled plastic packaging. This tax has been implemented by the EU, but most countries are not passing on this tax to the manufacturers and distributors, or only to a limited extent. The new German government now plans to fully transfer this tax over to the industry.

Düsseldorf: Carbon can protect the climate – Carbon Management Strategy North Rhine-Westphalia (NRW)
Lastly, the RCI highly welcomes North Rhine-Westphalia (NRW, Germany) as the first region worldwide to adopt a comprehensive carbon management strategy, a foundation for the transformation from using additional fossil carbon from the ground to the utilisation of renewable carbon from biomass, CO2 and recycling. For all three alternative carbon streams, separate detailed strategies are being developed to achieve the defossilisation of the industry. This is all the more remarkable as North Rhine-Westphalia is the federal state with the strongest industry in Germany, in particular the chemical industry. And it is here, of all places, that a first master plan for the conversion of industry from fossil carbon to biomass, CO2 and recycling is implemented. If successful, NRW could become a global leader in sustainable carbon
management and the region could become a blueprint for many industrial regions.

Cologne (Germany), and Online  ++ more than 70 participants registered - 250 expected ++

Cellulose fibres are a true material miracle as they offer a steadily expanding, broad range of applications. Meanwhile markets are driven by technological developments and policy frameworks, especially bans and restrictions on plastics, as well as an increasing number of sustainability requirements. The  presentations will provide valuable information on the various use-opportunities for cellulosic fibres through a policy overview, a special session on sustainability, recycling and alternative feedstocks, as well as the latest developments in pulp, cellulosic fibres and yarns. In addition, examples of non-wovens,  packaging and composites will offer a look beyond the horizon of conventional application fields.

The third session of the conference, "Sustainability and Circular Economy", highlights crucial issues with regard to the overall goal of keeping the environmental impact of cellulose fibres low. A core theme of the session is the responsible use of wood and forests. With this objective, the five speakers of the session discuss the importance of circular concepts for cellulose feedstocks. Exciting insights into the important "Hot Button Report" are offered by Canopy. The "Hot Button Report” enables the producers of cellulose fibres to better understand the impact their raw materials have on forests and the climate development worldwide.

Final program: https://cellulose-fibres.eu/program/