From the Sector

The appetite for responsible sourcing shows no sign of slowing with Europe's fastest-growing platform, Source Fashion expanding again for its next edition with a 50% increase in exhibitors to over 320 from around the world.

The gateway to the UK fashion industry, Source Fashion takes place on 18th - 20th February at Kensington Olympia London putting international manufacturers and suppliers at the fingertips of UK brands.

Source Fashion offers a unique experience for decision-makers in buying, sourcing and procurement, with the reassurance of knowing that every exhibitor has been audited to ensure sustainability and transparency remains at the heart of their business model. The next show unites manufacturers from the UK, India, Portugal, Turkey Madagascar, China, Sri Lanka, Nepal, Peru, Philippines, Ethiopia and many more. The show will also see the debut of manufacturers from Mongolia, Lithuania, and Tunisia.

Suzanne Ellingham, Director of Sourcing of Source Fashion says; "Visitors will love the quality, diversity and variety of producers, makers and manufacturers from around the world with the best of the best in terms of high-quality knitted apparel, luxury wool knits, leather, denim, and more across our sectors including Fabrics, Accessories, Sportswear, Garment Manufacturers, Packaging, Yarns, Trims and Fixtures, plus Design & Technology."

Connecting global manufacturers and suppliers to buyers who want the security in knowing every conversation is one that could lead to a new range creation, Source Fashion is the gateway to retail for manufacturers and suppliers from across the world. From raw materials, fabrics, trims, and packaging, all the way through to contract manufacturers offering in house design services, the show brings the inspiration and tools together in one exciting destination to bring new ranges to life.

The July 2023 show welcomed some of retail's biggest names. Buyers, sourcing managers, product developers, technologists, and designers from brands and retailers including John Lewis, Mountain Warehouse, Fila, Selfridges, H&M, Lipsy, Lyle & Scott, Joules, FILA, Perry Ellis, JoJo Mamman Bebe, Monsoon, Fatface, Lulu Guinness, Next, Sainsburys, Vivienne Westwood, Stitch Fix, ASOS, Bella Freud, Burberry, Fat Face, Hackett, Harrods, NBrown, Monsoon and many more came to explore and source from Source Fashion's diverse mix of audited exhibitors.

With a content stage dedicated to presenting and discussing the latest trends, innovations, and topics in responsible and sustainable manufacturing from internationally renowned industry professionals, as well the inspirational Source Catwalk shows, Source Fashion is the must-attend event for the fashion community.

Digital fashion outlet Otrium announces the launch of a dedicated garment refurbishment and repair programme for damaged returns following a successful pilot scheme. The initiative is being run in partnership with Bleckmann, experts in supply chain management for fashion and lifestyle brands. Working with Bleckmann’s team of circular fashion experts from The Renewal Workshop, Otrium is taking the next step in its strategic journey to help reduce the number of that might ultimately end up in landfills or destroyed.
 
Most of the returns that Otrium currently receives can be easily restored and put back on sale. However, in rare cases, returned items are damaged. “Preventing waste is an important part of Otrium’s DNA, and thanks to our partnership with Bleckmann and their Renewal Workshop team, we can now repair the majority of damaged returns and put them back into circulation,” said Kevin Carolan, Director of Logistics at Otrium. “We are happy that we can use our position in the fashion supply chain to create lasting change and accelerate towards our mission of reducing the volume of garments that go to landfill.”

Since 2020, Otrium is exploring refurbishment and repairs with their third-party logistics provider Bleckmann. In April 2023, both partners started a three-month pilot at Bleckmann’s facility in Almelo, the Netherlands, to expand the programme with a broader range of repairs and optimised processes through data use. During the pilot, the Renewal Workshop team at Bleckmann refurbished more than 1,000 returned garments, shoes and accessories for Otrium each month.

“With hundreds of high-end labels on the platform, we needed an efficient solution tailored to the needs of a wide range of products – from shoes and coats to bags,” explained Marlot Kiveron, Head of Sustainability at Otrium. “The Renewal Workshop team worked closely with us to develop a streamlined and scalable process that could grow in line with our ambitions, delivering like-new repairs at the speed of e-commerce. Their combination of purpose, professionalism, agility and expertise makes them the ideal partner for this kind of project.”
 
Bleckmann’s integrated data capabilities were also crucial to the success of the partnership. “Data collection and analysis can be vital in demonstrating the commercial viability of sustainability initiatives,” said Tamara Zwart, Director of Renewal at Bleckmann. “Using our advanced stock tracking systems, we determined that 70% of the renewed Otrium stock had been sold within seven weeks. We’re all delighted with the results!”
Furthermore, carbon-tracking software Vaayu calculated that on average, a refurbished return sold on Otrium avoids 2.760kg of carbon emissions and 69g of waste proofing that this programme can have a positive impact on both: the planet and the business.

Having established the business case, the team decided to expand the initiative beyond the pilot phase. “This project is a milestone in our sustainability journey,” concluded Marlot. “It’s a key part of our ongoing commitment to finding more ways to reduce our environmental impact while helping to ensure that more clothes get worn. By the end of 2023, we aim to repair at least 25,000 damaged garments. Together with Bleckmann and their renewal experts, we’re well on our way to proving that this circular business model can be a valuable part of our future growth.”

As a leading company in the collecting, sorting, reselling and recycling of post-consumer textile waste, TEXAID has enabled the recycling of post-consumer textile waste into new textiles and clothing. Working together with brands and retailers, TEXAID and our partners are continuing to take action to shift from a linear to a circular system.

Since 2022, TEXAID has partnered with Triumph International, operating their in-store collection program, “Together We Grow”, for 160 stores across Austria, Denmark, France, Germany, the Netherlands and Switzerland. Given the success of the program, starting April 2023, in-store take back has been expanded to an additional 108 stores across Belgium, Czech Republic, Hungary, Luxembourg, Poland, Portugal, Sweden and Spain. Customers bring in their worn garments and TEXAID manages the collected clothing in alignment with the EU waste hierarchy, sending each item to its next most sustainable lifecycle. TEXAID is pleased to be partnering with Triumph International to offer in-store take back, at scale, across Europe. For every 5 kg collected, Triumph plants a tree in partnership with Treedom.

To move away from the linear system and enable products to be made out of post-consumer textile waste, TEXAID continues to expand its offering for in-store collection programs throughout Europe and the USA.

Every year, the internationally widespread and renowned Pantone color system releases the trend colors for the coming seasons with the Pantone View Colour Planner to show which color tendencies the fashion world is indicating. Pantone shows whether next season will be gaudy, pastel, nude, dark or earth-tone. The lifestyle-oriented color trend forecast offers seasonal inspiration, lead colors, color harmonies, and application ideas by material and product, providing plenty of ideas in advance for anyone designing women's and men's fashion, sportswear, cosmetics, interiors, industrial products, or multimedia content.

These trends are part of the newly released CHT Fashion News Spring/Summer 2024. Inspired by Pantone, CHT creates three different focus color worlds to realize your ideas color-wise. To ensure that these trend colors can also be precisely implemented and realized in practice, CHT offers the exact recipes in various product ranges at the same time.

With these clear recipe sheets, the desired shade can be easily dyed. There is something for every sector, from recipes for garment and polyamide dyeing to polyester, cellulose and printing, as well dye selections to support the achievement of C2C Certified® textiles.

Fashion News is available digitally as an e-paper on CHT ePaper Portal or in printed version on request.

Global Fashion Agenda (GFA) presented a new online film series: Fashion Redressed. Produced by BBC StoryWorks Commercial Productions, the captivating series intends to inspire the industry to take action to transform the way we produce and consume fashion.

Every day we express ourselves through our clothes. Encompassing cultures, personalities, traditions and beliefs, fashion is core to how we present ourselves to the outside world. But our consumption of fashion and clothing is pushing our planet and societies to its limits. Fashion trendsetters and pioneers are working to meet this challenge head-on with game-changing ideas. At the heart of this is the question: how can we keep expressing all we do through fashion, but without hurting the planet?
 
Focused on finding the answers, Fashion Redressed, comprises multiple films that showcase organisations from across the fashion and textile industries. Launched on a BBC.com microsite, the series spotlights the innovations across the world that are influencing the new seasons of fashion, featuring a collection of stories that depict tailor-made solutions to fit us and our planet.
 
The 11 self-contained branded films showcase a range of participants including: eBay, Elk, The Ellen MacArthur Foundation, Vestiaire Collective, Spinnova, Lenzing, Faherty, FarFetch, Waste2Wear, Colorifix and Forest Stewardship Council. Each film focuses on a bespoke solution that can benefit us and the planet. From the scientist taking inspiration from silk-spinning spiders in Helsinki and the duo taking a deep dive into the genetic makeup of colour in Cambridge, to the pre-loved clothes being brought to life on a global platform from Paris and the importance of cultural appreciation in Arizona, fashion gathers the most creative and innovative minds. This series expresses the dynamism and creativity of the fashion world, spotlighting the people weaving change into the fibres of fashion and those who are working to find the stylish side of a more sustainable sector.
 
The series was unveiled ahead of GFA’s landmark event – Global Fashion Summit: Boston Edition – on 27 September. The forum will bring together fashion stakeholders for agenda-setting discussions and productive meetings on critical environmental and social issues.

Deakin University has signed a partnership agreement with Geelong-based company Xefco as part of its Recycling and Clean Energy Commercialisation Hub (REACH) to conduct new research to transform how our clothing, including jeans, get their colour.

Jeans are one of the most worn garments in the world, but they are also one of the least environmentally friendly, taking around 75 litres of water to dye just one pair.

Deakin’s work with Xefco is helping to explore if a waterless manufacturing process can replace the water intensive processes the clothing industry has used for hundreds of years. The new technology in development is called ‘Ausora’.

Associate Professor Alessandra Sutti, from Deakin’s Institute for Frontier Materials, said it was exciting to be on the commercialisation journey with Xefco, working with the company to discover what is possible and hopefully reduce the world’s fashion footprint.

“If successful, the Ausora technology, which colours fabrics without the need for large quantities of water, will put us a step closer to more efficient and sustainable clothing manufacturing,” Associate Professor Sutti said.

Xefco CEO Tom Hussey said the company’s new pilot plant, housed at Deakin in Geelong, will test different materials, including specialised fabrics such as waterproof items like outdoor jackets and jeans.

“This is the first stage of Xefco’s vision for the technology, with the REACH project focused on demonstrating the commercial viability of the technology at pilot scale and developing processes so it can be scaled up for commercial production,” Mr Hussey said.

“Together, Deakin and Xefco will push the limits of innovation and see what is possible.”
Xefco’s pilot plant is co-located with Deakin researchers at ManuFutures, the state-of-the-art advanced manufacturing hub at Deakin’s Waurn Ponds campus.

Founded in 2018 Xefco now employs 17 people and its products are already making a difference across the world. Its XReflex technology, which reduces consumption of insulation materials, is being used by some of the world’s leading apparel and fashion brands including The North Face.

Backed by a $50 million grant from the Australian Government’s inaugural Trailblazer Universities Program, with industry and university support taking the total project value to $380 million, REACH is facilitating the development of greener supply chains and accelerating business success as markets move from a throughput economy to a circular economy.

Textil Santanderina, a manufacturer of quality fabrics with controlled traceability, launched its Advanced Black denim collection in collaboration with Archroma.

The Advanced Black collection by Textil Santanderina uses Archroma’s new DIRESUL® EVOLUTION BLACK LIQ dyestuff to produce on-trend authentic black denim apparel with sustainability and resource savings. In addition to allowing fashion and apparel brands to choose eco-friendlier alternatives that demonstrate their commitment to protecting people and planet, Textil Santanderina’s new Advanced Black denim range also offers unique shade and wash-down effects.

Based on synthesis technology developed by Archroma, DIRESUL EVOLUTION BLACK LIQ delivers an overall impact reduction to 57%*, measuring its effect on human health, ecosystems and resources compared to standard Sulfur Black 1 liquid. Unlike traditional synthesis processes, it does not produce any ammonia, sodium salts waste or liquid effluents, and water consumption in the synthesis process is reduced by 73% for massive savings. The new DIRESUL dyestuff, when adopted with the full Archroma coloration system, delivers a new black color with on-tone wash-down effect and cleaner effluent at the mill.

Textil Santanderina and Archroma previously collaborated to produce Textil Santanderina’s aniline-free** indigo denim collection with the use of DENISOL® PURE INDIGO.

*As determined by Ecoterrae, a leading Spain-based sustainability consulting firm, through a Life Cycle Analysis (UNE-EN ISO 14044:2006) at the synthesis stage, using the ReCiPe 2016 Impact calculation methodology.
**Below limits of detection according to industry standard test methods.

With its flagship formats PREMIUM and SEEK, the Premium Group kicks off into a new season. And the team around Jörg Arntz, Maren Wiebus, Franziska Diers and Marie-Luise Patzelt have big plans again: new insider round tables outside the main dates, structured brand portfolios, an expanded content programme, new meeting spaces, exclusive tours for buyers and much more. The next editions will take place on 16 and 17 January at Station Berlin.

With the redefined and successful July editions this summer, the makers of the Premium Group have shown how proactively change can be realised: only 2 days instead of 3, a new-old location, new brand portfolios and fresh concepts. And the next Berlin experience is going to be even more attractive and profitable.

Registration for brands and buyers is now open and the team cordially invites the entire fashion and creative scene to set new standards together, to meet and to strengthen a platform from which everyone can benefit. For the first time, PREMIUM and SEEK will not take place at the same time as Berlin Fashion Week. The scheduling of Berlin Fashion Week and the event formats of the Premium Group are a result of the respective business and calendar model. Nevertheless, the team will continue to be in close contact with the organisers of Berlin Fashion Week.

Harnessing the synergy of the Texpertise Network of Messe Frankfurt and its global apparel flagship, the co-organisers of the Vietnam International Trade Fair for Apparel, Textiles and Textile Technologies (VIATT) recently held a joint press conference on 28 August 2023, the first day of Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics – Autumn Edition. Discussing the inaugural fair’s comprehensive, business-friendly nature, representatives of both Messe Frankfurt  and VIETRADE spoke in glowing terms about the potential of ASEAN’s new platform for the entire textile industry. Set to launch the spring sourcing season, the fair will take place from 28 February – 1 March 2024 at the Saigon Exhibition and Convention Center (SECC), Ho Chi Minh City.

For its first edition, the fair is expected to attract over 500 exhibitors and around 35,000 visitors to an 18,000 sqm exhibition space. Ms Wendy Wen, Managing Director of Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd, considered the show’s importance on a worldwide scale: “Serving as a supplementary trade fair to our existing events in China, VIATT will effectively extend our market reach into South East Asia. We’ve designed it to reinforce our global Texpertise Network, spanning the entire textile value chain. The network, which links over half a million textile professionals globally and organises more than 50 international textile trade fairs across 11 different countries, will lend its full support to the fair.”
 
She continued: “In line with this commitment, we will harness our more than 30 years of experience organising Intertextile in China, and extend to the fast-growing textile sector in Vietnam. Intertexile has grown to be by far the most influential series within our Texpertise Network, covering a broad range of resources in apparel fabrics, home and contract textiles."
 
With Vietnam’s largest international airport and seaport, and its proximity to other textile producing countries and regions, Ho Chi Minh City is strategically located to hold an event of this nature. The city attracts 35%^[1] of Vietnam’s foreign direct investment projects, and is the venue of choice for a significant portion of the country’s trade fairs.
 
Discussing the event’s potential, Mr Vu Ba Phu, Director General of Vietnam Trade Promotion Agency (VIETRADE), said: “Vietnam has emerged as one of the leading textiles exporting countries worldwide, with particularly high growth in the past 10 years, ranging from 15% to 20% yearly. As companies seek to diversify supply chains, and Vietnam introduces lucrative trade agreements, the market is predicted to attract even more investments. A big importer of textile machinery, fabrics, and yarns and fibres, green production and durable goods have become increasingly important. VIATT 2024 will be an important hub helping suppliers and buyers in all categories to meet, source and unleash the full potential of this market.”
 
A comprehensive Vietnam-based textile fair is an attractive proposition for manufacturers and sourcing professionals alike. Exhibitors from around the world will showcase a full spectrum of apparel fabrics, yarns and fibres, and garments; the latest innovations in technical textiles and nonwovens, textile processing, and printing technology; as well as a wide range of home and contract textiles.
 
Apparel fabrics, yarns and fibres, and garments
This sector will contain quality exhibitors from Vietnam, ASEAN, and beyond, providing buyers with numerous, diverse sourcing options in apparel textile sub-categories such as accessories, casualwear, denim, lace and embroidery, ladieswear, pattern designs, shirting, sportswear, suiting, and many more.
 
Technical textiles and nonwovens, textile processing, and printing technology
With application areas that include everything from automotive, aerospace and shipping, to construction, healthcare and safety, products on display will include innovative machinery, as well as some of the latest developments in smart textiles, such as wearable technology, sensors, and advanced materials.
 
Home textiles
Exhibitors will feature high-quality bed linens, towels, curtains, and much more, suitable for visitors sourcing for both residential and commercial applications. The diverse collections of home textiles will be enhanced by globally on-trend interior designs and in-demand, organic materials.
 
The Vietnam International Trade Fair for Apparel, Textiles and Textile Technologies (VIATT) is organised by Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd and the Vietnam Trade Promotion Agency (VIETRADE). Covering the entire textile industry value chain, the inaugural edition will be held from 28 February – 1 March 2024 at the Saigon Exhibition and Convention Center (SECC), Ho Chi Minh City.

^[1] ‘Investing in Ho Chi Minh City’, October 2022, Vietnam Briefing, retrieved August 2023, https://www.vietnam-briefing.com/news/investing-in-ho-chi-minh-city-why-the-megacitys-industry-economy-and-policy-are-key-to-developmen.html/

adidas and Manchester United Football Club announce the extension of their partnership. Manchester United commenced a historic agreement with adidas at the start of the 2015/16 season, reuniting after 23 years.

The new deal increases the focus on the Manchester United women’s team since their reintroduction in 2018 – continuing Manchester United and adidas’ commitment to drive the women’s game forward.

Manchester United Chief Executive Officer, Richard Arnold said:  
“The relationship between Manchester United and adidas is one of the most iconic in world sport , forged through a shared commitment to style, flair and, most importantly, high performance.

“With its roots in the 1980s, our partnership has been reinvented over the past decade with some of the most innovative designs and technology in sportswear. We are now looking forward to refreshing this powerful partnership again through the remainder of this decade and into the 2030s.”  

Chief Executive Officer at adidas, Bjørn Gulden, said:  
“We are extremely proud to announce the extension of the contract with Manchester United. adidas and Manchester United are two of the most important brands in International Football and it is very natural for us to continue our cooperation. We will combine tradition and innovation to please both the players and the fans.