From the Sector

Growth, digitalisation and re-commerce – the forthcoming INNATEX (the international trade fair for sustainable textiles) is devoted to highly topical themes. From 20 to 22 January 2024 at the Messecenter Hofheim Rhein-Main near Frankfurt, over 200 exhibitors will be meeting up with retailers, experts and journalists. The motto for the winter trade fair is GROW, representing the call for sustainable, social and commercial growth that will not be possible without the green fashion movement.

Optimistic expectations despite the challenges
According to Alexander Hitzel, INNATEX Project Manager, and the organisers, MUVEO GmbH, various new trends are opening up that might, if exploited strategically, unlock new business areas. These range from ‘quiet luxury’, travel, internationalism and focused storytelling to services for specific target groups. On the Monday, members of the expert panel will be discussing re-commerce with the Hessen Retail Federation in the Community Lounge.

From storytelling to digital tools – the INNATEX themes
“Second-hand is in fashion,” says Julia Frings of IFH Köln. “Sales of used and recycled products have been on an upward trend for some years now and with the rising importance of sustainability, their relevance will continue to grow. There is great potential in this area for the trade to reach new target groups and expand the range on offer. To be successful, though, it is essential to have a concept tailored to the needs of consumers.”

Alongside Julia Frings of IFH Köln, other Federation panellists will include Steffen Riegel of Hessnatur. The first Lounge Talk at the start of INNATEX will deal with Strategies for Sensible Growth, borrowing from the motto for the fair. This topic will be followed by Fair Wages in the Global South, Storytelling as a Strategy, and Digital Trends.

Brand portfolio and partners of INNATEX
The collaboration with the Hessen Retail Federation, like that with Fashion Changers and Greenstyle Munich, has already proved its worth at previous fairs, as a way of adding variety to a well balanced fair programme. The new collaborative partners include AMD Academy of Fashion and Design (AMD) in Wiesbaden, the Fashion Campus 2030 Initiative and the Enterprise Europe Network (EEN, a network promoting internationalisation among smaller and medium-sized businesses).

The brand portfolio includes fashion for all generations, tastes and occasions. Labels exhibiting for the first time include businesses such as Fuza Wool from Denmark with its high quality traditional knitwear, and the hemp-based accessories of 8000Kicks from Portugal. The DESIGN DISCOVERIES comprise Anfisa Roumelidi, C/OVER and Consci.

Twice a year ISPO recognizes innovative fibers, fabrics and components that are used to manufacture sports apparel. Two innovations from Hologenix have scored wins in the ISPO Textrends Fall/Winter 2025/2026 Awards: CELLIANT® with REPREVE® Nylon, introduced with textile solutions provider UNIFI®, makers of REPREVE®, and CELLIANT® Print. They were both Selections in the Fibers & Insulations Category.

CELLIANT with REPREVE Nylon
CELLIANT with REPREVE Nylon consists of CELLIANT infrared (IR) technology embedded into REPREVE. REPREVE creates high-quality fibers made from 100% recycled materials, including post-consumer plastic bottles and preconsumer waste. CELLIANT with REPREVE Nylon is strong and durable with great stretch and a silky hand. It is ideal for underwear, stockings, tights/leggings, socks, seamless knits, baselayers and many other categories. With CELLIANT’s ability to convert body heat into infrared energy, improving local circulation and cellular oxygenation, it also provides performance for outdoor/sportswear, outerwear, swimwear among other categories. This is the second carrier type for CELLIANT with REPREVE, as it was introduced in polyester last fall and won three awards.

CELLIANT Print
CELLIANT Print makes the natural blend of IR-generating bioceramic minerals more widely available from Hologenix as a printed coating, expanding the uses of the technology. Traditionally, CELLIANT has been embedded directly into fibers, yarns and fabrics. However, for its print applications, CELLIANT fine mineral powder can be adhered to many different fabric types as a topical coating, making CELLIANT Print a versatile and cost-effective solution. Key CELLIANT partners, such as Under Armour with their UA RUSH™ line, and KT Tape with its PRO Oxygen™ kinesiology tape utilize CELLIANT Print. Safe and CELLIANT® Print CELLIANT® with REPREVE® Nylon durable, CELLIANT Print has undergone mechanical testing for wash tests and can be confirmed to last the useful life of the product, for 50+ washes.

adidas Originals and Wales Bonner continue their collaborative partnership with the Fall/Winter 2023 collection.

Off-pitch styles include an elevated knit set in mahogany brown alongside football shorts in a sand colored nylon with the iconic Three Stripes contrast. Swapping creative sources of inspiration from the 70s to the 90s, key pieces are rendered in a lightweight nylon fabrication, including a pale sky tracksuit with reflective piping and a black nylon top with a contrasting vivid green knit collar. All pieces are available in unisex sizing.

Marking a departure from previous seasons, the campaign visuals swap evocative landscapes for a more refined, studio setting. Decidedly new, yet still grounded in the adidas Originals by Wales Bonner lexicon, the visuals capture a mix of models and street cast figures, as well as skateboarder Na-Kel Smith, against minimal backdrops. Accompanying the campaign images are a set of short interviews and moving vignettes, with the cast answering interview questions hosted by playwright, actor, and philanthropist, Jeremy O. Harris.

ISKO provided their latest innovation in material science to British designers, Priya Ahluwalia, Masha Popova, Chet Lo and Aaron Esh, for the London Fashion Week SS24 season.

Alongside supplying their latest denim fabrics, ISKO opened its doors to its London-based product development centre, Creative Room London, for finishing and washing of their final designs as well providing expertise and knowledge in denim design and construction.

Priya Ahluwalia
For Ahluwalia’s Spring Summer 24 collection, entitled Acknowledgements, Creative Director and founder Priya Ahluwalia’s research led her on a journey of creative rediscovery.
ISKO’s Ctrl+Z fabric, which is made entirely from recycled and regenerated fibres, was used to create the flower motif denim showcase within 3 looks across jeans and jackets. This development contains no virgin cotton and uses a minimum of 60% recycled materials and the remainder is regenerated cellulose fibres while still giving a look and feel identical to traditional denim and speaks to Ahluwalia’s ongoing commitment to sustainable design and business practices.

Chet Lo
This season, Chet Lo took an active stand in reclaiming the power lost during his youth, healing the childhood wounds inflicted by a society that sidelined differences instead of celebrating them.
ISKO’s Ctrl+Z fabric and specialist lasering techniques from ISKO’s Creative Room was used across three looks featuring signature Chet Lo erotic laser prints across denim bottoms.

Aaron Esh
The SS24 season marked the brand’s debut at London Fashion Week, a homecoming of sorts for Esh, who was born and raised in the heart of the British capital, studied at Central Saint Martins and became a finalist at the LVMH Prize earlier this year. The early impulses of Aaron Esh remain steadfast: clothes that combine establishment rigour with the rebellious spirit of youth culture, devotedly crafted for a generation who feels somewhere in-between.
Aaron created bootleg denim ripped jeans made entirely from ISKO Denim using R-TWO50 fabric, which comprises a minimum of 50% pre and post-consumer recycled content. The designer noted the addition of denim accompanied by leathers add a new level of depth to their latest collection.

Masha Popova
Masha Popova’s sophomore catwalk outing, MONSTER was a “seasonless” offering that combines Autumn Winter 2023 and Spring Summer 2024.
Masha continued her obsession with denim manipulation, using various finishings including over-dyeing, flocking, patchwork, scratching and fraying in a variety of colours from vibrant green to silver across jeans, tops and jackets, all developed with the help of ISKO’s Creative Room, London.

Biella Yarn’s new Fall/Winter 24/25 collection presents two collaborations. Both collaborations start with one common inspiration: with the clash of different cultures and the distant exotic markets. Rug making, fur-crafts and artisan hand work inspire patterns and textures which are translated into knitted fabrications and 3D designs.

MRC Knitwear Research Lab created these textures and patterns by using a small selection of very classic yarns and working them in special techniques to create rich textural fabrications. Each garment focuses on a special technique and combination of yarns and colours and show how versatile a single yarn can be.

The garments were knitted mainly with Victoria Nm 2/30 (100% Merino wool extrafine, 19.5 μ, anti-shrinkage). Victoria Nm 2/30 was used in an array of different techniques and on different gauges - from 14gg ribs, that have a beautiful drape to more tactile fabrics such as 3-dimensional stitches on 12gg and heavily patterned inlay jacquards on the 14gg Shima Seiki SRY. Within these inlay jacquard’s BaltoroPro Nm 2/28 (70% Merino wool extrafine, 19.5 μ, anti-shrinkage 30% Polyester GRS High Bulk) was selected as an inlay yarn - a special wool blend which helps create bulky 3-dimensional fabrications that remain lightweight. The classic Brisbane Nm 2/60 (100% Merino wool Superfine, 17.5 μ, anti-shrinkage) and new boucle yarn Fluffy Nm 14 000 (81% Merino wool extrafine, 19.5 μ, anti-shrinkage, 19% Polyamide) were worked together in fine plush jacquards to give an effect of shaved patchwork furs.

The structures and patterns were transitioned into the world of 3D designs by Shima Seiki Italia. The design software APEXFiz®, developed by Shima Seiki, not only allows for shaping but also converts them into knitted patterns. By replacing physical samples, virtual samples reduce time costs, and materials that would otherwise be wasted. Yarnbank®, Shima Seiki's platform for yarn and spinning research, has been the primary source of Suedwolle Group's digitized yarns used in the 3D models.

In Fall/Winter 2023, Y-3 (partnership between adidas and Yohji Yamamoto) returns to present the third chapter of its year long exploratory narrative – with the subversive label taking athletic iconography, silhouettes, and materials and recontextualising them through through the lens of Yohji Yamamoto’s renegade design vision.

Inspired by adidas’ inimitable sporting legacy, Chapter 3’s apparel collection sees Y-3 evolve the collegiate motifs of previous seasons, for an entirely new context. Drawing on vintage varsity style lettering, an array of graphics are applied to jackets, t-shirts, and hoodies, in kettle stitch embroidery, chenille patches, puff prints, and engineered knits. A curated offering of quilted pieces, with cutlines inspired by the adidas Originals Aloxe tracksuit, completes the apparel highlights with a selection of jackets, vests, skirts, and pants.  

The collection is then rounded out by a host of bold accessories including elevated totes, gym bags, backpacks, body bags, knit beanies, caps, and more.  

Having traversed Yohji Yamamoto’s homeland of Japan for the brand’s Spring/Summer 2023 campaigns, the seasonal story journeys to adidas’ mother country of Germany, to capture Berlin’s unique, energetic, and prolific creative community. Shot by local photographer, Lengua, and motion director Thyago Sainte, the stills, moving images, and short film spotlight an enigmatic cast of musical figures that call Berlin home in personally resonant locations.

The Board of Directors of Rieter Holding Ltd. unanimously has appointed Oliver Streuli to the Group Executive Committee of Rieter Group as Chief Financial Officer, effective August 1, 2023.

Oliver Streuli was from June 2019 until April 2023 CEO at PCS Holding AG in Frauenfeld (Switzerland), a private institutional investment company, where he was responsible for developing the investment strategy as well as the financial and strategic supervision of the industrial portfolio companies. He was also project manager for the IPO on the SIX Swiss Exchange at Stadler Rail AG, Bussnang (Switzerland). Previously, he held different positions at UBS.

He is currently a member of the Board of Directors of Swiss Steel Holding AG, Lucerne (Switzerland), and of Autoneum Holding AG, Winterthur (Switzerland).

Oliver Streuli was a member of the Board of Directors of several industrial and financial portfolio companies of PCS Holding AG in Switzerland, in Austria and in Türkiye, which are active in fields of electric propulsion systems, green mobility and rolling stock leasing.

Oliver Streuli was born in 1988 and is a Swiss citizen. He holds a Master’s degree in Accounting and Finance from University St. Gallen (HSG),

With the short slogan ‘NOW’ INNATEX, which takes place from 29 to 31 July 2023 at the Exhibition Centre in Hofheim-Wallau, enters the summer season. The 52nd International Trade Fair for Sustainable Fashion close to Frankfurt am Main is using the slogan to express the urgent need for a sustainable transformation in the fashion industry.

Lounge Area with new themes and collaboration partners
Alongside its well established and constructive partnerships with, for example, the Hessen Retail Federation and Mirjam Smend of Greenstyle Munich and Pureviu, the organisers MUVEO GmbH have entered into a new collaboration agreement with Fashion Changers. The two heads behind this Berlin-based initiative, Nina Lorenzen and Vreni Jäckle, will be holding and moderating two Lounge Talks on the Saturday. On the Sunday and Monday, the other partners will be contributing to the programme with additional experts.

“We are currently discussing several themes for the Lounge Talks, such as size inclusivity and branding strategies for fashion businesses in the digital age,” says Alexander Hitzel, Project Manager for INNATEX. “The new Community Lounge, which brings together the Talks, DESIGN DISCOVERIES and information stands with experts, first appeared in the winter. We still shan’t be putting together a non-stop programme, though, because as an ordering fair INNATEX continues to focus on concentrated working.”

Green Fashion is NOW: Creativity and mood of optimism in the industry
In the community, Hitzel says he perceives an attitude that is far from lethargic, due to the recent crisis-laden years. Among the 220+ exhibitors, several are expanding or even doubling their stand areas. Some labels are announcing entirely new lines as part of their market response. And even traditional textile producers are revealing fresher looks, getting into discussions with suppliers and testing new materials.

“We are excited about the summer fair, because we are already noting an extraordinary degree of creativity and dynamism – which is good!” comments Hitzel. “We need a sustainable counterweight to ultra-fast fashion more than ever.”

Newcomers and labels exhibiting for the first time still have until 1 June 2023 to apply to be DESIGN DISCOVERIES.

• 1Q23 Performance Summary
• Revenue of US$4B, an increase of 3% QoQ and a decline of 9% YoY
• Reported EBITDA of US$301M, an increase of 269% QoQ and decrease of 62% YOY
• Operating cash flows of US$201M
• Net Operating Debt to Equity of 1.00x
• Reported EPS of THB 0.14

Indorama Ventures Public Company Limited (IVL), a global sustainable chemical producer, reported improved quarterly earnings as headwinds continue to ease from the previous quarter’s peaks, although still below normalized levels. The company continues to focus on enhancing its global competitiveness as the full benefit of China’s reopening spurs volumes through the year, and as volatile energy costs and the destocking trend by customers begin to normalize.

Indorama Ventures achieved Reported EBITDA of $301 million in 1Q23, an increase of 269% QoQ and a decline of 62% YoY. Sales volumes dropped 8% YoY amid the heavy destocking trend that is impacting the chemical industry globally, although volumes rose 5% QoQ as the pace of destocking begins to slow from the peak in 4Q22. With China reopening from pandemic lockdowns and economic activity increasing, there has been marginal improvement in benchmark spreads, albeit below historical levels. In Europe, the warmer-than-expected winter contributed to lower energy prices and alleviated the cost pressures faced last year.

The Group reported an overall decline in Q1 earnings on a year-on-year basis as continued destocking by customers kept sales volumes below consumer consumption levels. CPET posted Reported EBITDA of $142 million, a 74% decrease YoY as sales volumes dropped 9%. Fibers segment achieved Reported EBITDA of $32 million, a decrease of 69% YoY as all three verticals reported declining sales. Integrated Oxides and Derivatives (IOD) segment posted a 4.4% growth in YoY Reported EBITDA to $128 million as volumes rose 4.4% YoY.

From March 15-16, 2023, the spring edition of PERFORMANCE DAYS kicked off on the fairgrounds of Messe München. With around 2,685 visitors, the event organizers were particularly pleased with numbers up on the previous winter fair. High attendances were also evident at the Expert Talks on both days, which provided information on the latest color and fabric trends, news on developments in sustainability and new technologies from fiber manufacturers. The focal points of the show were marked by the PERFORMANCE FORUM, which showcased the fabric highlights for the spring/summer 2025 season as well as the two PERFORMANCE AWARD and ECO PERFORMANCE AWARD winners.

After the kick-off event in Munich in March, the industry now looks forward to the follow-up fairs in Portland from April 4-5, 2023 and in Shanghai, April 10-11, 2023.

New concept starting October 2023: Premiere for highlighted focus on footwear
As part of the upcoming PERFORMANCE DAYS, which will once again take place at the Messe München exhibition center on October 4-5, 2023, the event organizers will no longer focus explicitly on sustainable functional textiles and accessories, but will also focus on the footwear market.

To support the integration of the footwear market into the trade fair events in Munich, Portland, New York and Shanghai, the organizers have brought on board two industry specialists, Nina Conrad and Rucky Zambrano.

Nina Conrad has been active as a sustainability consultant in the textile and leather industry for many years, specializing in traceable and local supply chains. Her core business is the production of leather and leather goods derived from animals raised on certified organic farms. She is also a founding partner of the Sustainable Leather Foundation and co-founder of the Fibershed subsiduary DACH.

Rucky Zambrano is a industrial designer and expert. When he got to know Vibram in 1992, he shifted his career to footwear for reasons of passion. For 13 years now, Zambrana and Vibram have been a driving force in the footwear market and made the leap from performance to fashion, as witnessed with the Merrell Chameleon, the Prada Luna Rossa boat shoe sole or the latest Vibram FiveFingers models. He is currently responsible for footwear for the Finnish children’s outdoor brand Reima.