From the Sector

• C-star Shanghai vom 02. bis 04. September 2020: Hoher Zuspruch von Ausstellerseite
• BMWI fördert erneut Teilnahme deutscher Unternehmen
• Premiere: EuroShop Retail Design Award China

Der jüngstes Weltwirtschaftsausblick des Internationalen Währungsfonds (IWF) prognostiziert angesichts der aktuellen Coronakrise für das globale Wachstum im Jahr 2020 voraussichtlich einen Rückgang um 3 Prozent, in der EU sogar um rund 7 Prozent. Nicht so für China, wo trotz Covid-19  ein positives Wirtschaftswachstum liegt von 1 Prozent erwartet wird.

Chinas Einzelhandel gewinnt bereits wieder an Vitalität. Laut einer aktuellen Umfrage des chinesischen Handelsverbandes für allgemeine Waren (CCAGM) haben bis zum 13. April 96 Prozent der befragten Unternehmen ihre normale Arbeit wieder aufgenommen, und 46 Prozent von ihnen haben 60-70 Prozent ihrer normalen Verkäufe wieder erreicht. Mehrere chinesische Städte starteten bereits Anfang März Gutschein-Kampagnen, um die Kauflust zu steigern und so den Konsum anzukurbeln. Bemerkenswert ist, dass die Erholung der Einzelhandelsumsätze deutlich schneller als die des Personenverkehrs verläuft.

Diese positive Entwicklung  spiegelt auch die C-star, Shanghai' s International Trade Fair for Solutions and Trends all about Retail, wider, die vom 02. bis 04. September 2020 im Shanghai New International Expo Centre stattfindet. Bis jetzt sind schon 95 Prozent der Stände belegt. Die C-star umfasst folgende fünf Dimensionen: Shopfittings & Shop Furnishings, Store Design & Visual Merchandising, Smart Retail Technology, Lighting, Catering und Hospitality Equipment & Refrigeration Systems. Es wird mit 200 Ausstellern gerechnet, die maßgeschneiderte Lösungen und Produkte speziell für den Handel präsentieren werden. Namhafte Unternehmen wie Futuristic, Changhong, Longsun, Yongcheng, Epson, Shangyoung, Sunmi, Cloud Pick, Lvsunny, Self, Candex, Ganter oder Xovis sind mit an Bord. Spezialisierte Dienstleister, wie Xovis, Koscar, Sunmi, Cloud Pick, DB Scale, Keewin, T-Scale, Kiton, TSD, Adelante und CCL Tech,  konzentrieren sich auf hochmoderne intelligente Einzelhandelstechnologie, um dem Handel innovative Lösungen für die Online- und Offline-Integration anzubieten.

Das Bundeswirtschaftsministerium (BMWi) wird sich auf der C-star erneut mit einem offiziellen deutschen Pavillon beteiligen. Aufgrund der derzeitigen Corona-Situation bietet das BMWi den beteiligten Unternehmen flexiblere Konditionen, d.h. zum Beispiel, wenn es zu Einreisebeschränkungen für Reisende aus Deutschland kommen sollte oder zu einer Verschiebung der Messe, können Aussteller kostenlos zurücktreten. Auch die Anmeldefrist wurde verlängert und zwar bis zum 05. Juni 2020. Interessierte deutsche Unternehmen können sich beim BMWi an Frau Ute AWynhoff wenden: wynhoffu@messe-duesseldorf.de.

Premiere auf der C-star 2020 feiert der EuroShop Retail Design Award China (ERDA China). Das große Vorbild, der EuroShop Retail Design Award wird seit 2008 von der Messe Düsseldorf und dem EHI Retail Institute verliehen, um die weltweit besten Ladenkonzepte auszuzeichnen. Da die chinesische Einzelhandelsbranche gerade in den letzten Jahren ganz eigene chinesische Charakteristika und Designs ausgebildet hat, rufen Messe und EHI nun einen eigenen Award   ins Leben, der die einzigartigen Bedürfnisse der chinesischen Einzelhandelsbranche berücksichtigt. In der Jury sind sowohl internationale als auch nationale Experten vertreten.

Fachbesucher können sich bereits jetzt für die C-star 2020 online registrieren: http://www.c-star-expo.com/en/

Strategic Cooperation in Advanced Materials and Composite Machine Technologies between REACH Group/China and AMAC/Germany

A close cooperation, especially in difficult times like the Covid-19 crisis, is more and more important for sustainable success. Today, Reach Group/China and AMAC/Germany signed a cooperation agreement to
strengthen their business between China and Europe in the field of advanced materials and composite machine technologies.

Reach Group, based in Shanghai is a comprehensive group company present in the composite industry since 1996. AMAC is an expert advisor and business enabler in composite solutions based in Aachen, Germany.
Now the companies want to cooperate in the field of materials on Thermoplastic composites, bio-based materials, materials for additive manufacturing, additives for high performance and in the field of composite machine technologies on tape placement solutions, continuous lamination machines, 3D-printing as well as on advanced automated thermoset processing.

The cooperation will be presented at the next China Composite Expo on September 2-4, 2020 in Shanghai.

Rest of the Mills to Complete Assessments and Comply by 2023

Sateri’s mill in Fujian, China, has been verified to comply with the European Union Best Available Techniques (EU-BAT) standard. Verified by independent consultant Sustainable Textile Solutions (STS), a division of BluWin Limited (UK), the parameters of the standard assessed included resource utility efficiency, wastewater discharge and air emission.

In the assessment report, STS noted that all of Sateri Fujian’s mill parameters assessed were within the range of EU-BAT limits. Notably, its energy intensity, sulphur to air, and chemical oxygen demand (COD) were well under EU-BAT norms. With the use of cutting-edge technologies for air emissions control, the total sulphur recovery rate is over 98%. Sateri Fujian accounts for over 20% of Sateri’s annual total production capacity.
The compliance with EU-BAT standard comes on the back of several key manufacturing and product related industry certifications and standards which Sateri has attained. These include OEKO-TEX®’s MADE IN GREEN, STeP, and STANDARD 100. Sateri is one of the world’s first viscose producers to complete the Higg Facility Environmental Module (FEM) 3.0 assessment. Sateri is also part of the multi-stakeholder Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) manmade cellulose fibre working group, which is developing guidelines to reduce environmental emissions. As a founding member of the Collaboration for Sustainable Development of Viscose (CV), Sateri is supporting the development of CV’s 2025 Roadmap which considers industry best management practices and global certification standards.

Perlon®, A Serafin Group company is continuing to produce its’ quality filaments at all five sites for its’ customers in the current challenging climate. Production in China has been operating again as normal since the beginning of March after having to be temporarily halted due to the spreading of COVID-19. Production is now back up to 100%.

Production in Germany at our sites in Munderkingen (Baden-Wuerttemberg), Bobingen (Bavaria) and Wald-Michelbach (Hesse) as well as in the USA is continuing to run without any constraints. Therefore all sites are working to full capacity to fulfill all our customer orders. In particular, in the paper machine clothing area is showing an increase in sales which offsets a reduced demand in other areas such as automotive.

In the current situation, the company is doing everything it can to fulfill its’ responsibility as an employer and also as a business partner. Therefore all hygiene measures at all our sites have been significantly increased so that our employees are protected as well as possible. There is hand sanitizer in every department and all of our production lines are disinfected several times a day. It has been explained to employees, what they should do in the current climate in order to minimize risk. Where possible employees are able to work from home. Perlon® has approximately 650 employees in Germany, over 80 in the USA and more than 100 in China.

High demand for monofilament for the paper industry.

The paper industry is currently experiencing a rise in demand worldwide – and Perlon® is also benefitting from this, as customers need even more high-quality monofilament and twisted yarns for the tensioning of paper machines. For the paper machine clothing field, Perlon® produced filaments are used to manufacture press fabric, which can be used either as a conveyor belt or for moisture removal on a paper production line. Due to the high mechanical strain through the presses, polyamide monofilaments or twisted yarns are therefore almost always used. Paper industry customers have increased their production recently. Whether it’s boxes to cope with the increased demand for online deliveries or paper for hygiene purposes (which everybody can identify with), there is an increased demand worldwide. The dental, hygiene and food preparation fields are also experiencing increased demand. To this end, Perlon® offers filaments for the manufacture of toothbrushes and high-quality cleaning system brushes.

HeiQ, winner of the Swiss Technology Award and Swiss Environmental Award, launches HeiQ Viroblock NPJ03, an antiviral and antimicrobial textile treatment that is tested effective against coronavirus.

Since its inception 15 years ago, HeiQ has forged a solid innovation track record helping brands improve textile products. Catalyzed to action by the global fight against Coronavirus, HeiQ launches HeiQ Viroblock NPJ03, an antiviral and antimicrobial textile treatment which is proven effective against human coronavirus (229E) in face mask testing, significantly enhancing the antiviral log reduction from 2.90 of untreated face masks to 4.48, over 99.99% reduction of virus infectivity. (Remarks: a log reduction of 2 is equivalent to 100 times the effectiveness).

Chinese protective masks producer Suzhou Bolisi is the lead adopter of HeiQ Viroblock NPJ03. Treated masks will be available on the market as early as this April. American legwear manufacturer Kayser-Roth is planning to add the technology to their new product, Ghluv hands protector, while Lufeng from China is evaluating the technology on other types of fabric used for garments.

HeiQ Viroblock NPJ03 is a unique combination of vesicle and silver technologies designed to inhibit the growth and persistence of bacteria and viruses. The HeiQ vesicle technology targets lipid- enveloped viruses, such as coronavirus, providing rapid virus deactivation, while the HeiQ silver technology inhibits the replication of both bacteria and viruses. HeiQ Viroblock NPJ03 can be applied to a wide spectrum of textile surfaces including face masks, air filters, medical gowns, curtains, drapes and more. HeiQ also has a range of highly wash-durable antimicrobial and odor control textile technologies, called HeiQ Pure, combining silver-based and bio-based materials for all fabric types.

• Move is in line with global growth strategy with a strong focus in the Asia Pacific region
• Zhejiang plant will be able to produce 50,000 tons of nylon compounds annually in the longer term
• Plant will be located in the convenient transportation port area of DuShan Pinghu city

DOMO Chemicals, a leading producer of high - quality engineering materials for a diverse range of markets, has announced plans for a new state - of - the - art plant in Zhejiang, China. The new plant will be capable of producing 50,000 tons of sustainable and innovative engineered nylon compounds each year. The company signed a new factory project through “cloud contract” with PingHu DuShan port Economic Development District on February 20, 2020. Production is expected to commence in the fourth quarter of this year.

DOMO Chemicals will invest €12 million in the new plant, which will have more than 11,500 m 2-floor space. The company plans to install multiple production lines at the first stage of development, which would offer an estimated capacity of 25,000 tons/year. There will be enough additional space available to cope with future demand requirements. The move is in line with the company’s global growth strategy with a strong focus on the Asia Pacific (APAC) region.

ISKO presented its 100% responsible platform, R-TWO™.

The denim ingredient brand hosted a special panel to discuss some of the advancements in technology that are making the fashion industry more responsible: from R-TWO™ to automated laser technology.

With the fashion industry being considered one of the world’s most polluting businesses-sectors, collaborating and knowledge sharing are key in finding solutions for a better future. Fully aware of this scenario, ISKO was the headline sponsor at The Drapers Sustainable Fashion Forum brings together responsible players to discuss what can be done to tackle the industry’s environmental and social issues through innovation and creativity.

Sharing knowledge, collaborating for change.
As evidence of its Responsible Innovation™ approach, ISKO presented the R-TWO™ program, its latest
responsible achievement. Stemming from the mill’s holistic vision, R-TWO™ represents a great example of how reducing, reusing, and recycling strategies can be implemented in a textile business to improve its  environmental performance.
The R-TWO™ reduces the amount of raw material sourced by using a blend of reused cotton and recycled polyester – both certified –, improving sourcing efficiency throughout the entire field-to-fabric production.
Reused cotton is certified with the Content Claim Standard – or CCS – from the Textile Exchange. As for recycled polyester, it can be either Recycled Claim Standard (RCS) or Global Recycled Standard (GRS) certified, depending on the content percentages. Together with this cutting-edge and fully responsible program, ISKO also uses automated laser
technology developed in partnership with Jeanologia.

“How technology can help make the fashion industry more sustainable”:
On March 11th, ISKO hosted a discussion about ways, to make the fashion industry more responsible
The panel was moderated by David Shah, consultant on design and marketing development, Publisher and CEO at Metropolitan Publishing BV and Associate Professor at ARTez (Arnhem, the Netherlands) and Associate Professor at Renmin University, (Beijing, China). The talk involved Keith O’Brien, ISKO Marketing & Business Development Manager, Victoria Soto, Jeanologia Custom Technology Consultant and Filippo Ricci, Fashion Open Studio Program & Partnership Manager.

Net result impacted by operating losses and high impairments in North America

In 2019, Autoneum grew organically by 2.5% and has thereby significantly outperformed the declining market. In Swiss francs, revenue rose slightly to CHF 2 297.4 million. However, as previously communicated, operational inefficiencies in North America and impairments on fixed assets in that region had a particularly strong impact on profitability and led to a net loss of CHF –77.7 million. The Board of Directors therefore proposes that no dividend bedistributed for the 2019 financial year. Based on the new turnaround program launched in North America at the beginning of this year, significant profitability increases are expected for 2020.

2019 was an extremely challenging year for the automobile industry. The continuing weakness of the global economy, ongoing trade disputes and the increasing regulation of mobility impacted vehicle demand negatively. But 2019 was also a year of change for Autoneum internally. An in-depth analysis carried out by the new Group Management in the fall showed a need to reevaluate the Group’s performance over the short- to medium-term. In Business Group North America, the operational and commercial problems have proven more extensive than originally assumed. As a result, the turnaround program launched in spring 2019 was replaced at the beginning of 2020 with a dedicated and far more comprehensive program for the North American sites.

Revenue growth despite a shrinking global market
As a result of weak demand, the number of light vehicles produced worldwide fell again sharply in 2019 compared to the previous year; whereby the decline of almost –6% was much steeper than in 2018. Thanks to numerous production ramp-ups and a favorable model portfolio, Autoneum generated organic revenue growth1 of 2.5%, despite the global market cooling. Revenue consolidated in Swiss francs rose by 0.7% from CHF 2 281.5 million to CHF 2 297.4 million.

Profitability2 impacted by operational inefficiencies and impairments
Operational inefficiencies in North America and impairments on fixed assets in this region were the main reason for the – first-ever – negative net result in 2019. In addition, the sharp drop in automobile production in Europe and China as well as associated lower utilization of production capacities in the affected Business Groups also burdened the Group’s profitability. EBITDA excluding IFRS 16 effects decreased to CHF 126.0 million (2018: CHF 197.2 million), which corresponds to an EBITDA margin of 5.5% (2018: 8.6%). One-time charges from impairments in the amount of CHF –68.0 million had a negative impact on EBIT, reducing it to CHF –32.9 million (2018: CHF 114.1 million). Without these one-time charges, EBIT amounted to CHF 35.0 million. The EBIT margin 1 Change in revenue in local currencies, adjusted for hyperinflation. 2 The figures for the 2019 financial year include IFRS 16 effects. Autoneum Management Ltd . Media Release . March 4, 2020 Page 2/5 excluding impairments was at 1.5% in 2019, and taking those into account the margin decreased to –1.4% (2018: 5.0%).

Supply bottlenecks eliminated. All production lines back to full operation.

Following its temporary cutting back of production at the Nanjing site in China, Lenzing has now once again ramped up operations on all production lines to reach full capacity. Recently supply shortages of important raw materials arose as a result of intense transport controls in connection with the current situation surrounding the coronavirus. For this reason, output from two production lines was scaled back for a short time. All production lines are now fully operational again after the successful resumption of the required supplies to the manufacturing facility.

In the latest short film released on the Monforts YouTube Channel – captured at the recent Denim Première Vision show in London – some of the leading global manufacturers discuss their initiatives for more sustainable denim production.

Cone Denim, based in Greensboro, North Carolina, for example, can lay claim to having put in place its first environmental control measures back in the 1940s when the company first started recycling its water.

“It was a method of efficiency even back then, eighty years ago,” says Gabriel Magopat, of the company’s UK customer service centre, “but  producing high quality products is another method of being sustainable and of being efficient, and I think that’s what Cone stands for. We have an amazing history.”

Cone Denim is known for its signature S Gene® stretch denims which have traditionally incorporated polyester components to provide the stretch. It has now partnered with Intrinsic Advanced Materials of Gastonia, also in North Carolina, to introduce patent-pending CiCLO stretch polyester fibres into its denim collections. 

While still being synthetic based, CiCLO polyester is able to biodegrade in marine environments, wastewater treatment plants and landfill conditions, at rates similar to natural fibres like wool. 

This more sustainable solution for stretch is also being introduced to China for the first time by another leading denim supplier, Advance Denim.

“Advance Denim is spending its resources on being the most technologically advanced company in China, and also the most sustainable,” says Mark Ix, the company’s Director of Marketing. “We are investing heavily in our manufacturing to save both water and chemicals to create cleaner products.”

Monforts denim customer Berto is a family-owned company with its main denim mill in Bovolenta, a small rural town near to Padua in the north east of Italy, where respect for the environment has always been a must.

“The family has always been focused on respect for the environment,” says Berto’s Marketing Manager Francesca Palento. “In particular, we have a river next to the company from which we take our water for production and we then return it cleaner than it was before. We are also now producing GOTS and Global Recycling Standard jean produced with yarns made from our own internal waste production.”

Pakistan’s Soorty has recently received Cradle to Cradle Gold certification – the most stringent and exacting sustainable standard currently in existence – for its Pure D range of denims. These are produced using the company’s proprietary Zero Waste Water dyeing technology, in combination with the most advanced Monforts finishing machines. 

“Our very latest collection is called Climate Jeans, because every single product we now produce draws attention to the climate emergency we are living through right now,” says Eda Dikman, Soorty’s Marketing Communications Manager. “Sustainability is very important to us because we produce at scale and all of the actions we take reflect on the planet.”