From the Sector

Lectra supports the transformation of fashion, automotive and furniture companies by providing them with technological solutions that accelerate their transition to a more efficient and more sustainable Industry 4.0. In February, as part of the launch of its new roadmap, Lectra confirmed the importance of CSR in its strategy and presented its new priority measures for 2023-2025. By joining the UN Global Compact, Lectra demonstrates its commitment to reaching the Sustainable Development Goals of the United Nations.

Over the last few years, Lectra has stepped up its CSR initiatives. In 2011, the company implemented a CSR purchasing charter that covered 98% of its industrial purchases in 2022, excluding Gerber Technology (which was acquired in June 2021). In 2023, the new version of our CSR purchasing charter will be extended to Gerber suppliers, with the objective of enrolling 90% of all our industrial suppliers by 2025. Lectra also favors local procurement and production, as demonstrated by the recent inauguration of its manufacturing facility in Tolland, United States.

Another example: knowing that textiles generate 90% of the CO₂ emissions produced during the total lifecycle of a cutting room, Lectra strives to offer its customers solutions that optimize the use of materials. Lectra's equipment makes it possible to achieve material saving of 5 to 10%. In addition, to better inform consumers about product authenticity and provenant, the company has also expanded its software offer to material traceability, as show by the recent majority acquisition of TextileGenesis’ capital. Lectra is committed to systematically using eco-design principles by 2025 for its new equipment platforms in order to reduce its environmental footprint.

For 2023-2025, Lectra has decided to focus on 5 key areas through 12 measures:

1. MEETING THE HIGHEST ETHICAL STANDARDS
   - Uncompromising business ethics
   - Extension of our CSR purchasing policy
2. DESIGNING ECO-RESPONSIBLE OFFERS
   - Developing eco-designed products and services
   - Supplying products and services that help reduce our customers’ impact on the environment
   - Developing safe, accessible and easy-to-use solutions
3. FOSTERING AN INCLUSIVE, DIVERSE AND STIMULATING WORKING CULTURE
   - Zero tolerance for discrimination and harassment and equal opportunities for everyone
   - A working environment conducive to employee engagement
   - Balance between work and private life
   - Sustainable development of talents, team expertise and professional careers
   - Employees’ health and safety
4. REDUCING THE ENVIRONMENTAL FOOTPRINT OF OUR ACTIVITIES
   - Reducing the environmental impact of our company's activities
5. SUPPORTING FUTURE GENERATIONS
   - Supporting the development of professional skills and the employability of future generations

Following a strong start at the Spring Edition of Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles early this year, global industry players have turned their sights to the next international event in August. As the first Autumn Edition to be held in the wake of China lifting many of its pandemic-related border restrictions, the three-day fair will gather around 1,000 international and domestic exhibitors. Traders looking to meet market demand will be able to source from an extensive range of trending and specialised home and contract textile products from 16 – 18 August 2023.

According to a recent market report, the global home textile market is expected to show a CAGR of 5.6% from 2023 – 2028 to reach USD 174.1 billion by the end of the forecast period. Asia-Pacific has dominated the global market in recent years, with China one of its most significant contributors.^[1]

As a manufacturing hub for home textiles, China is gradually recovering from social and business disruptions caused by the pandemic. Speaking at the recent Spring Edition, Ms Rosemary Li, Domestic Sales Manager of Zhangjiagang Coolist Life Technology Co Ltd, a long-time exhibitor specialised in bio-based and functional bedding products, said: “Since China relaxed its pandemic-related control and prevention measures, after Chinese New Year we have been flooded with orders. With both domestic and export orders increasing, it has been almost impossible for the production line to fulfil the order demand.”

While the spring show’s promising visitor flow was a positive start to the Chinese home textile industry’s post-pandemic era, a higher participation of overseas exhibitors and buyers is expected at the upcoming Autumn Edition

The return of special zones and international pavilions
Later this year in Shanghai, exhibitors will showcase their most up-to-date home and contract textile products, ranging from bedding & towelling, rugs, table & kitchen linen, upholstery & curtain fabrics, editors, home textile technologies and textile design. With a wealth of choices for buyers, several show highlights are listed below:

• Editor & Designer Zone: located in hall 5.1, the zone will feature international, high-end editor and designer brands brought by leading exhibitors J&C, Julai, Qianbaihui, Prestigious, Shanghai Lotus, SohoCut, Yada, and more.
• Country and region pavilions: premium suppliers from Belgium, Türkiye and Taiwan (China) will exhibit quality products in their designated pavilions in hall 6.1.
• Textile Designs: textile design studios from Japan, Portugal and Taiwan (China), namely Amilia Design Studio, Fine Art Inc and Tela's Design Lda, will also showcase their seasonal designs in hall 6.1.

Adding to buyers’ sourcing options, a multitude of domestic players from different categories will also showcase their respective products. Highlighted exhibitors include top curtain and curtain fabric suppliers Fu-Tex, Hangzhou Aico, Hexin and Xiaoxuanchuang; bedding suppliers Coolist, Huizhou Wah Shing and Yantai North Home; as well as Hightex, Huatex, Maya and Suzhou Roufang from the upholstery and sofa fabric sector.

Fairgoers can also learn more about the upcoming global trends and designs by visiting the ‘2023 – 2024 Intertextile International Lifestyle Trend’ area. In aid of this, Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles has joined forces with NellyRodi™, the renowned French forecasting agency, to present the design theme for 2023 – 2024: ‘ALIVE’. HUMAN CAPITAL, ROUSING COMMITMENT and UNREAL REALITIES are the theme’s three main trends.

^[1] Globe Newswire: Global Home Textile Market Report 2023-2028: Increase in Consumer Spending on Home Renovation and Decoration Bodes Well for the Sector. https://www.globenewswire.com/en/news-release/2023/03/08/2622718/28124/en/Global-Home-Textile-Market-Report-2023-2028-Increase-in-Consumer-Spending-on-Home-Renovation-and-Decoration-Bodes-Well-for-the-Sector.html

Under the motto “People Matter” numerous exhibitors will be presenting innovative solutions and concepts revolving around safe and healthy work at A+A 2023. This year, the overarching theme of the leading international trade fair will be the two megatrends digitalisation and sustainability.    

Furthermore, A+A organisers have changed the hall concept and optimised routing at the exhibition centre: the halls have been clearly segmented according to theme, thereby placing similar products and services in close proximity with each other. This makes it easier for visitors to locate the companies exhibiting ranges of particular interest to them and to find their bearings at the fairgrounds.  

Also new: Halls 16 and 17 will present Corporate Wear and Hall 15 the complete spectrum of components and accessories for manufacturing up-to-date protective wear.      

In addition to a Corporate Fashion Show visitors are in for further exciting forums as well as an extensive congress programme with international appeal: including the 38th International Congress for Occupational Safety and Occupational Medicine as well as the WearRAcon Europe, to be held in Germany for the first time as part of A+A. Likewise, such topics as ergonomics and New Work will be given significantly more visibility owing to new cooperations and expert lectures.  

For the first time, BB Engineering (Germany) was an official subexhibitor of its parent company Oerlikon at ITMA Milan. In addition to man-made fibre spinning (VarioFil® compact spinning line) and fibre-to-fibre recycling (VacuFil® recycling technology), the company focused on introducing its new JeTex® airtexturizing system and left the fair with a pleasing volume of orders.

With the JeTex® air-texturizing system, BBE is expanding its product portfolio in order to be able to offer a finishing technology as well. It is a production line for high-quality air-texturized yarn (ATY). It combines an innovative texturing system developed by BB Engineering as key component with state-of-the-art components by Oerlikon Barmag to ensure fast production speed, the desired effects, and the quality of your product. At ITMA, JeTex® airtexturizing had its market launch.

Regarding the VarioFil® compact spinning line for synthetic fibres, BB Engineering also brought some innovations to ITMA. Higher production capacities per spinning position and improved spin pack lifetime form a new machine generation with increased productivity.

The VacuFil® PET recycling system was launched at ITMA 2019 in Barcelona. Over the last four years, BB Engineering has been working on further development and this time presented its solution for waste-free production of filament yarns. The patented liquid-state polycondensation (LSP) unit Visco+ for viscosity adjustment and control as key component was the main focus.

In general, BB Engineering assesses the ITMA as very positive and full of opportunities. According to company, the number of visitors and the interest in the topics of synthetic fibre spinning, fibre-to-fibre recycling and air-texturizing were continuously high. In addition to many discussions with existing customers and interested parties the medium-sized company recorded a level of incoming orders like never before.

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, was granted status last month as an accredited stakeholder with the United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP), which, among other privileges, will allow representatives from the association to observe the formal ongoing negotiations of the UN Global Plastics Treaty. INDA Government Affairs Director Wes Fisher was on site at the second session of the treaty negotiations formally titled the “second session of the Intergovernmental Negotiating Committee to develop an international legally binding instrument on plastic pollution, including in the marine environment.” The negotiations took place from 29 May to 2 June 2023 at the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) Headquarters in Paris, France.

“We are excited to continue to enhance the capacity of INDA’s government affairs department to better serve the industry on a global scale,” stated Fisher. “We look forward to working with the UNEP to provide technical input regarding ongoing plastics treaty issues specific to the nonwovens industry, and engaging with other UN processes with our new status as an accredited stakeholder.”

Accreditation provides non-governmental organizations with observer status to the United Nations Environment Assembly, UNEP, and its subsidiaries. Accreditation will bring many advantages to INDA with respect to participation in the work of UNEP’s Governing Bodies, such as the United Nations Environment Assembly of UNEP and the Committee of Permanent Representatives.

UN Global Plastics Treaty negotiations have garnered significant attention from both industry and environmental groups. At least three more negotiation sessions are expected with the goal of finalizing a treaty by the end of 2024.

CIRCULOSE® production at Renewcell 1, Ortviken has been certified to Recycled Claim Standard (RCS) version 2.0. The RCS is an international, voluntary standard that sets requirements for third-party certification of recycled input and chain of custody. The primary goal of the RCS is to increase the use of recycled materials.

Building off previous RCS certification of the CIRCULOSE® pulp at the Kristinehamn recycling plant, this achievement further solidifies Renewcell’s mission to change the global textile industry and make it circular and sustainable.

The CIRCULOSE® pulp process conforms to the RCS 100 standard developed by Textile Exchange, a global non-profit organization advancing preferred fibers and materials.

A recycled content claim can only be made for materials that have been recovered or otherwise diverted from the solid waste stream. The certification process requires partners to comply with standards at every step of the supply chain, starting with the raw material (or recycling) suppliers and ending with the end seller in a business-to-consumer transaction.

Freudenberg Performance Materials Apparel (Freudenberg) announces the 37xx PES Series – a range of interlinings that offer the classic feel of cotton combined with the modern features of enhanced durability, increased yields, and low-temperature fusing. With a 100% PES base and special finish, these OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100 Class I certified products open new possibilities for the business and smart casual segments.

Crafted from a 100% PES base with a special finish, these new interlinings boast enhanced durability and better resilience and recovery over traditional cotton interlinings. The 37xx PES Series interlinings offer the added advantages of no visible impurities or foreign fibers, along with low temperature fusing, reducing the risk of yellowing in the finished product. Compared with cotton interlinings, the 37xx PES Series also offers increased yields of up to 150 cm in width and are more cost effective than traditional cotton interlinings, allowing for easier and more efficient manufacturing.

Apart from the material qualities, the 37xx PES Series offers unmatched consumer safety. Produced at its Nantong, China factory, Freudenberg ensures optimal quality control of the 37xx Series. Furthermore, the interlinings are OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100 Class I certified, making them safe for even the most sensitive skin types, including for babies.

The 37xx PES Series currently includes the 3738 and 3755 products, offered in 115 g/m2 and 165 g/m2 weights, respectively. These can be fused with other fabrics and interlinings to create the precise hand feel for garments.

ECHA’s Enforcement Forum agreed to launch an EU-wide project to check that products sold online comply with REACH restrictions and the requirements of the Classification, Labelling and Packaging (CLP) Regulation. Its subgroup on Biocidal Products Regulation, BPRS, agreed to launch a project on labelling of biocidal products.

The Enforcement Forum including its BPR subgroup (BPRS) is a network of enforcement authorities from the EU and EEA. They are responsible for coordinating the enforcement of the REACH, CLP, PIC, POPs and the Biocidal Product Regulations with the aim of protecting our health and the environment while ensuring a level playing field for companies across the EU market.

Inspections in this REACH-EN-FORCE (REF)-13 project will take place in 2025. The objective is to check that products, such as toys, common household goods or chemicals, sold online comply with REACH restrictions. Inspectors will also check that mixtures are classified, labelled and packaged in line with CLP and that online offers include the required information about the hazards of the mixture. Inspectors may also check compliance with restrictions under the Persistent Organic Pollutants (POPs) Regulation and the Restriction of Hazardous Substances (RoHS) Directive.

The online sale of chemicals is an area of high non-compliance. In a previous Forum project (REF-8), inspectors often found that mixtures and articles sold online contained restricted hazardous substances, including those causing cancer. The project found that 78 % of controlled mixtures or articles did not fulfil the conditions of REACH restrictions.

In the upcoming project, inspectors can rely on stricter rules governing online sales, such as the Digital Services Act and General Product Safety Regulation. These new laws are expected to make enforcement stronger.

The Forum’s subgroup on Biocidal Products Regulation (BPRS), agreed that the next major enforcement project on biocides (BEF-3) will focus on controlling the correctness of product labels for biocidal products. Inspectors will check that the information on the labelling of biocides corresponds to that what has been authorised and included in the Summary of Product Characteristics. Inspectors may also check the presence and quality of information in the Safety Data Sheets, where it is required for biocidal products.

Both REF-13 and BEF-3 projects will be prepared in 2024, inspections are planned for 2025 and reports are expected to be published in 2026.

During the meeting, the Forum members elected a new chair and vice chair. Henrik Hedlund (SE) will start as the Forum chair and Katja vom Hofe (DE) and Maria Orphanou (CY) will be the vice chairs as of 21 June 2023. Its biocides subgroup elected Helmut de Vos (BE) as chair and Jenny Karlsson (SE) and Eugen Anwander (AT) as vice chairs.

• The A+A Expert Talks head into their third round

On 20 June 2023 between 10.00 am and 11.30 am experts from the fields of sustainability, circular economy, environmental protection as well as corporate fashion and product management will be presenting lectures and discussing the topics of sustainability in supply chains, standardisation and quality seals as well as the associated challenges and solutions in cooperation with German Fashion. They will thereby provide a platform for the exchange of knowledge, experience and innovative approaches.

The focus on sustainability and the circular economy reflects the growing relevance of these topics in the world of work. More and more companies recognise the need to make their business practices more sustainable and optimise the use of resources.

This Expert Talk will be presented by Irina Olm, In-House Lawyer & Counsel of GermanFashion Modeverband Deutschland e.V. and Expert for Circular Economy and CSR, who will contribute her know-how on the European level.  

Benjamin Helfritz, Head of Quality in Digital and Green Transformation, DIN – German Institute for Standardisation, will introduce participants to the new standards for the Green Transition.  
The Digital Product Passport (DPP) is needed for both the green and digital transition. However, it will only achieve its full added value if interoperability is ensured between existing and emerging systems. The use of the DPP promotes more sustainability and digital progress.

Henk Vanhoutte, Secretary General, European Safety Federation (ESF) and Lucia Mendori, Regulatory Affairs Associate / Chair ESF Working Group Sustainability will present practical examples and concrete application factors for sustainable PPE as well as solutions for sustainable jobwear. They will provide an overview of survey results from their members regarding various sustainability aspects – pointing to how the industry is treating this important topic but also flagging up the limits to the sustainability of PPE.

Lena Bay Høyland, Product Director of the Swedish workwear manufacturer Fristads Kansas will share the sustainability strategy of her company which has committed to minimise its environmental impact by targets and effective measures. The progress made by Fristads Kansas was measured using concrete figures and audits. This is a use case highlighting the innovations and challenges associated with sustainable jobwear.

By organising the Expert Talks the leading international trade fair A+A jointly with its strategic partners from the German Federal Association for Occupational Safety and Health (Basi), Fraunhofer IPA, German Fashion (Modeverband Deutschland e.V.), DGUV (Germany Statutory Accident Insurance), BAuA (Federal Agency for Occupational Safety and Health), BMAS (Ministry of Labour and Social Affairs), IVPS Interessenverbund Persönliche Schutzausrüstung e.V. (PPE Stakeholder Association) as well as IFA (Institute for Occupational Safety) will provide its community with a networking and information platform.

On the side-lines of the three-day fair, Techtextil India’s 2023 edition scheduled from 12th –14th September, will be hosting SITRA’s Expo on Medical Textiles called MEDITEX^TM2023 - an exclusive pavilion that focuses on medical textiles with live demonstrations and high-growth application areas offering a global platform for business opportunities.

Medical textiles are fabrics that are used in the healthcare industry for a variety of purposes ranging from maintenance of hygiene, prevention/control of infection to saving the life of critically ill patients. In recent years, the demand for medical textiles has been growing in India due to rise in geriatric population, accidents and life style diseases. Besides, various initiatives of Governments, increased awareness about hygiene, medical tourism and advancements in textile technology are driving the growth of medical textile industry in India. According to a report published by Ministry of Textiles on the Indian Technical Textiles market, the market potential of medical textiles market at 5% is valued approximately at USD 1.125 billion in the year 2021-22.
 
SITRA is a Textile Research Association, sponsored by the industry and supported by the Ministry of Textiles (MoT), with the contribution to the textile industry for more than 65 years. Its Centre of Excellence for Medical Textiles, established by MoT in 2008, has been organising MEDITEX - an International Medical Textile Expo cum Conference in 2014 and 2018 respectively. This exclusive fair for medical textiles has been offering a global platform for business opportunities in the varied application of medical textiles which has witnessed a good participation from the industry. For 2023, the expo will be held as a part of Messe Frankfurt India’s Techtextil India 2023.

Target topics based seminars, supported by Ministry of Textiles, Government of India would also be held concurrently along with the exhibition wherein the speakers would be discussing about current and evolving technologies in medical textiles. Stakeholders and visitors to the conference as well as the exhibition would get to witness and benefit from world class, state-of-the-art medical textiles products/machineries and technologies.