From the Sector

This collaborative and educational project showcases the use of waste as a resource and prolonging the life of the garment through color. It came to life thanks to key brands who donated items that were then transformed by Officina39’s Recycrom™ applications into a renewed head-to-toe look that was then displayed as an art installation.

What’s the Recipe for change? For Officina39 and Adriana Galijasevic’s Cocircular Lab, this question gives shape to the collaborative and educational project Circular Explorations, specially presented at Amsterdam Denim Days Festival on April 22-23.

Sharing ground values and a common view on the fashion of tomorrow, Officina39, Italian based Chemistry plus Creativity company for the textile sector, joined hands with Adriana Galijasevic’s Cocircular Lab and influential brands to celebrate the importance of an ongoing commitment towards circularity.

Several donated items – overstock, second-grade production or damaged, unsold pieces – were updated with newly developed applications made with Officina39’s Recycrom™, the one-of-a-kind, patented dyestuffs range made from textile waste. This Circular Explorations capsule is displayed at Denim Days Festival as an art installation, not only to dress people but also to get them acquainted with circularity because they are an important player in closing the loop.

The Recipe for change that emerges from this color research is based on important values and keywords:

• Consciousness – awareness of oneself and one's surroundings
• Courage – the mental or moral strength to venture, persevere, and withstand danger, fear, or difficulty.
• Creativity – the power to imagine and produce new possibilities.
• Connection – a relationship in which a person or thing is linked or associated with something else, the act or state of connecting.
• Collaboration – the act of working together for a common goal.

Combined together, they produce CHANGE, which is a driving force for a better tomorrow.

This collaborative and innovative project that addresses circularity is also in direct support of United Nations Sustainable Development Goals, in particular number 12-Responsible Consumption and Production, number 9-Industry innovation & Infrastructure and number 17-Partnership for the Goals.

At the forthcoming Texprocess, Techtextil and Heimtextil shows taking place in Frankfurt from June 21-24 – members of the Swedish Textile Machinery Association TMAS will be showcasing a range of solutions aligning with the growing trend for more localised and automated textile manufacturing.

Digitalisation and the push for more sustainable, shorter and less expensive supply chains are currently making manufacturing in high-cost countries within Europe more attractive and there have been many other contributing factors to this over the past two years.

The Covid-19 pandemic exposed the vulnerability of many countries to shortages of essential items like PPE while at the same time making the full exploitation of new digital options essential during national lock-downs and long periods of restricted travel. The escalating cost of global transportation, as well as the growth of online retailing and the associated benefits of on-demand digital manufacturing, are further reinforcing the many benefits of short-run and near-shore new operations.

Secure supply
At Texprocess, for example, Eton Systems will be unveiling its latest Ingenious software solution which further enhances the company’s Opta Unit Production System (UPS) introduced in 2021.

“Our automated technology has already had a great impact on the productivity of thousands of garment production lines,” says Eton’s Managing Director Jerker Krabbe. “Our systems help producers across the world to reduce repetitive manual tasks and increase efficiency, which evens out some of the differences between production in high and low-cost countries, making reshoring a feasible option. Creating a diversified production portfolio with a mix of production facilities, some closer to home, makes for a more secure product supply.”

Flexibility
Imogo meanwhile recently installed the first industrial scale dyeing system in Sweden for many years. The Dye-Max spray dyeing line has the potential to slash the use of fresh water, wastewater, energy and chemicals by as much as 90% compared to conventional jet dyeing systems. It is capable of carrying out the application of a wide range of fabric pre-treatments and finishing processes, providing users with unbeatable flexibility in production.

“Here in Scandinavia, we are currently seeing an explosion of companies developing sustainable new cellulosic fibres – many from waste clothing – but a problem is that all of the environmental benefits they deliver can potentially be lost in the further processing, and especially in conventional dyeing,” observes the company’s Founding Partner Per Stenflo. “The Dye-Max system positively addresses this, but interest in it has not just been confined to Europe. We are currently seeing a lot of activity in Turkey – largely as a near-shore partner to European brands – but also in Bangladesh.”

Robotics at Heimtextil
ACG Kinna Automatic specialises in automation solutions for filled products such as quilts, pillows and mattresses and its live demonstrations of robotics in action have proved a magnet for visitors to Heimtextil. This year’s show will be no exception.

“The use of robotics is now standard across many industries dealing in solid goods, but the handling of soft materials such as textiles is a little more complex,” says Managing Director Christian Moore. “Nevertheless, it’s something we have successfully mastered, and our robotic systems are proving highly beneficial to their users. There is no ‘one-size-fits-all’ solution when it comes to automation and our approach is always to carefully examine where it will make the difference in each bespoke system. A focus is on identifying and eliminating bottlenecks which will increase product flows.”

During the Covid-19 pandemic, ACG Kinna drew on all of its automation know-how and extensive network of contacts to build a new nonwovens fabric converting and single-use garment making-up plant in a matter of weeks, in order to supply the Swedish authorities with urgently-needed medical gowns.

Instant colour
Localised textile production is also booming in the USA, where Coloreel has recently secured multiple orders for its instant thread colouration technology via its US partner Hirsch.

“Coloreel technology enables the high-quality and instant colouring of a textile thread while it is actually being used in production and can be paired with any existing embroidery machine without modification, while also making it possible to produce gradients in an embroidery for the first time,” explains VP of Sales Sven Öquist.

“Advanced rapid colour formulation software and high-speed drive technology allow a single needle to carry out what it previously required many multiples of them to do – and with much more consistent stitch quality. By instantly colouring a recycled white base thread during production, our system enables complete freedom to create unique embroideries without any limitations. Colour changes along the thread can either be made rapidly from one solid colour to another, or gradually, to make smooth transitions or any colouring effect desired. This provides big benefits when it comes to sustainability and design creativity.”

Milestone
Svegea will be promoting its latest EC 300 collarette cutting machine at Texprocess 2022. This machine is used by garment manufacturers around the world for the production of tubular apparel components such as waistbands, cuff and neck tapes and other seam reinforcements. With its E-Drive 2 system and fully automatic FA500 roll slitter, the EC 300 has an output of around 20,000 metres per hour.

“Advances in automation are only making the specialised, bespoke machines we engineer even more efficient and we are expecting a very busy year,” says Managing Director Håkan Steene. “The garment components our collarette cutters produce make it logical for them to be integrated into the operations of making-up operations, wherever they are.”

Sensors
The advanced yarn tension monitoring technologies of Eltex of Sweden meanwhile play an essential role in rectifying defects in  weaving, tufting and composite reinforcement operations.

“A correct tension of the warp and weft threads ensures proper machine operation,” explains Eltex Global Marketing and Sales Manager Anoop K. Sharma “The constant tension monitoring and automatic control of the tension of the thread help to overcome unnecessary problems.

“We continue to make advances in both the hardware and software of our tension monitoring systems, such as the EyE™ for the warping process. With the EyE™, the yarn tension values from all yarns are continuously updated and displayed on screen. In addition, tension values outside the warning level are indicated both on the sensor’s LEDs and on the screen for complete quality control. No fabric can be woven without the appropriate and correct tension.”

• Dye Sublimation Papers that bring colour to life

At the upcoming FESPA Global Print Expo 2022 (31 May to 3 June) in Berlin, leading specialty papers manufacturer Sappi will be showcasing its extensive portfolio of coated and uncoated dye sublimation papers, containerboard and silicone base papers. At Europe’s most significant trade fair for screen and digital printing, large-format printing and textile printing, visitors to stand 4.2-D20 will have an opportunity to see for themselves the many qualities and diverse applications of Sappi’s papers:

• Experience the comprehensive portfolio of sublimation papers
• Learn about Sappi’s plans to support further market growth
• See the benchmark products for corrugated board production
• Explore the full range of silicone base papers

Investment in increasing production capacities for sublimation papers
Sappi’s theme for this year’s FESPA Global Print Expo is “Seed. Thrive. Earn.” Sappi, one of the world’s leading manufacturers of speciality papers, has indeed planted a seed by recognising the rapidly growing importance of sublimation papers for digital transfer printing. The company recently announced that it will be investing a sum in the low double-digit million euros over the next two years in the expansion of its “Centre of Excellence” for speciality papers at its Carmignano site in northern Italy. The investment aims to increase production capacity to support further growth of the dye sublimation paper business. It will also further improve the company’s first-class service, while shortening delivery times.

Comprehensive product portfolio of sublimation papers for a multitude of applications
Thanks to previous investments, Sappi is ideally positioned to offer an extensive portfolio of dye sublimation papers for digital transfer printing. These are constantly being improved and adapted to the latest market requirements and ongoing developments in sustainability. Sublimation papers are used in the fashion, home textile, sportswear and sports equipment sectors as well as in the soft signage and hard substrates industries.

This year, all papers will be displayed with new designs and materials to give visitors the best possible overview and insight into the numerous application possibilities adapted to a variety of machine types and speeds. In addition to Sappi Basejet, an uncoated sublimation paper, the complete Transjet brand product family will be presented.

High-quality containerboard products for corrugated board applications
For applications such as promotion displays, high-quality packaging or e-commerce cartons, Sappi offers a portfolio of coated and uncoated liner qualities. These guarantee brilliant colour reproduction as well as excellent contrast and improved readability. The 100 per cent virgin fibre Fusion range liners are today’s premium solutions for displays, consumer packaging, shelf-ready packaging and trays. With their homogeneous surface and high whiteness, the virgin fibre liners fulfil all the requirements for strong brand impact at POS.

A full spectrum of silicone base papers
Silicone base paper products complement Sappi’s portfolio at this year’s FESPA. Developed as release liners for self-adhesive applications such as automotive foiling, outdoor advertising and office materials, they offer exceptional siliconization properties as well as easy and efficient processing.

On the 25th of March ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei invited its strategic European partners to the Triennale Design Museum for the first ROICA™ Summit, with the aim of sharing its global strategy and to consolidate relationships that are key to the Asahi Kasei global vision of its fiber and business.

Among the speakers Senior Executive Manager Mr. Shinichiro Haga and its successor Mr. Takehiro Kamiyama, who will take on the new role after more than thirty years in the Asahi Kasei Corporation and more than three years at ROICA™. Together they opened the floor by explaining the ROICA™ business strategy, which is based on three main steps:

1. Continue to speed up ROICA™ responsible innovation  
2. Continue to speed up ROICA™ international partnerships with a strong focus on responsible innovation
3. Continue to push a new generation of communication where its story making will align with an authentic and consumer driven storytelling based on values.

Then, Mr. Shinohe Hiroaki Chief Marketing Officer Europe, introduced the new production strategy at global level  together with  its program of partnerships, plus the marketing and communication programs for the next year and beyond in synergy with Giusy Bettoni at C.L.A.S.S.

“We are extremely pleased to be here with our European partners, thanking them for the continuous valuable cooperations that made ROICA™ so special, and sharing with them which will be our next steps in order to be leading responsible innovation. This is a very precious moment, during which we are able to talk face to face and install long-lasting relationships, with the aim of supporting the apparel industry by making premium stretch becoming a key player for wellbeing values, which are extremely precious for the contemporary consumer. And this will be part of sport, lingerie, hosiery , fashion and swimwear wardrobes thanks to the ROICA™ special new generation of premium stretch innovations” affirms Shinohe Hiroaki.

Hologenix® announces that its newest innovation has achieved two recognitions. In addition to being a Top Ten winner in the Fibers & Insulation Category of ISPO Textrends Fall/Winter 2023/24, pure white CELLIANT has been shortlisted in the Drapers Sustainable Fashion 2022 Awards. The company is sharing the spotlight with recognized brands such as H&M, Sweaty Betty and Timberland. According to Drapers, the leading authority on fashion retailing in the UK since 1887, which sponsors these awards annually, this year they received the most entries ever, making them very competitive.

To create pure white CELLIANT rPET fiber, Hologenix developed a strategic partnership with the Ireland-based Wellman International Limited, a fully owned subsidiary of Indorama Ventures. Indorama Ventures is investing $1.5 billion on sustainability initiatives, allowing them to recycle 50 billion PET bottles globally by 2025 to support the growth of the circular economy. Wellman International has been a pioneer of recycling technologies for almost 50 years, offering specialist solutions for the medical, hygiene, automotive, home care and apparel sectors.  

Pure white CELLIANT rPET fiber is sustainably manufactured, with a low-impact supply chain. It is achieved by embedding bioceramic materials, that are naturally derived and ethically sourced, into fibers, yarns and fabrics. Wellman International has converted 100% of pure white CELLIANT Polyester production into rPET. This conversion to rPET has been implemented across all CELLIANT product categories, replacing traditional polyester and dramatically enhancing CELLIANT’s sustainability initiatives.

Pure white CELLIANT is recognized as a Class 1 medical device in the European Union and is able to carry the CE mark. Like CELLIANT, pure white CELLIANT captures and converts body heat into infrared energy, powering bio-responsive textiles. This energy is reflected back to the body, resulting in increased local circulation and cellular oxygenation. These advantages have a variety of wellness benefits, including stronger performance, faster recovery and better sleep, as well as many functional properties such as thermoregulation, quick-dry properties and odor inhibition.  

Wellman International distributes pure white CELLIANT fibers across Europe, the Middle East, Africa, Asia and the USA.

Archroma, a leader in specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, has announced the launch of a collaboration with the University of North Carolina Greensboro (UNCG) and its Consumer, Apparel, and Retail Studies (CARS) department, aiming to further the education of its students in the area of color management expertise.

As per the agreement, Archroma will donate its color management tools for their design projects, gaining hands-on expertise that equips them for successful careers in the fashion and textiles industries.

The students will have access to a complete set of the ready-to-use color library developed by Archroma for cotton and polyester. The library, well known among fashion designers and stylists as the Color Atlas by Archroma®, which was launched in 2016 to provide off-the-shelf color inspiration that can be implemented in production with just a few clicks.

Today, the Color Atlas contains 4’320 colors applicable on cotton poplin, almost the double compared to similar tools available to textile and fashion specialists, and 1,440 colors on polyester.

Beside the physical Color Atlas library, the students in the CARS program will also have access to the full digital files for use in the industry-leading 3D fashion design and development software Browzwear VSticher.

The students will be able to use the Color Atlas books and the digital data as a color selection resources to use in a variety projects and assignments.

• Kornit Digital Introduces High-Volume Digital Production Solution for Vibrant Decorative Designs on Polyester and Polyester-Blended Apparel
• Kornit Atlas MAX Poly to Transform Professional and Recreational Sportswear, Teamwear, and Sports Brands; Injecting Life into Apparel with Power of Design Across Full Color Gamut

Kornit Digital Ltd. (NASDAQ: KRNT) (“Kornit”), a worldwide market leader in sustainable, on-demand digital fashionx and textile production, introduced today its distinctive Kornit Atlas MAX Poly system – an industry-first direct-to-garment (DTG) solution delivering superior-quality digital decoration for vibrant, colorful design on polyester and poly-blended apparel.

Kornit’s Atlas MAX Poly capitalizes on the demand for fashionable, unique sportswear and apparel. As the industry emerges from a post-pandemic environment in which athletic and leisurewear became mainstream, there is increasing demand for apparel combining polyester and poly-blends with vivid designs across a range of colors. Atlas MAX Poly can transform the multi-billion-dollar professional and recreational sports apparel and teamwear markets, limited today by limitations in mass customization of polyester.

“Kornit Atlas MAX Poly is a game-changer,” said Omer Kulka, Chief Marketing Officer at Kornit Digital. “As fashion and sports apparel merge, there’s new opportunity for innovative fashion on polyester, currently the fastest-growing textile vertical. For the first time, recreational sportswear, promotional, and sports brands can embrace vibrant and colorful design with Kornit’s proven MAX technology – setting superior quality standards for on-demand production previously not possible.”

Unveiled during Kornit Fashion Week Tel Aviv 2022, Atlas MAX Poly incorporates Kornit’s field-proven MAX technology for high-quality premium decoration, process automation, and smart autonomous quality control. With Kornit’s XDi decorative applications, Atlas MAX Poly enables endless designs and creativity on polyester, and empowers new styles for multiple effects and unlimited combinations such as emulating threadless embroidery, high-density vinyl, screen transfer emulations, and 3D effects.

The solution is compatible with mesh and plain fabrics, including brushed polyester, while maintaining durability and breathability. It brings the highest throughput for on-demand polyester decoration, reducing total cost of ownership to drive profitability. Customers gain competitive advantage via Pantone color-matching and a wide color gamut including neon colors for bright and vibrant impressions, using single-step mechanisms minimizing production footprints while maximizing versatility.

Beyond superior quality, graphics, color, and application variety, Kornit Atlas MAX Poly offers efficient, reliable, profitable end-to-end polyester production via:

• Kornit’s ActiveLoad automated garment-loading and pallet adjustment for repeatable, high-quality output with minimal errors reducing time and waste, eliminating operator ramp-up and boosting throughput up to 20%.
• Seamless integration with KornitX Global Fulfillment Network, enabling a pixel-to-parcel-to-doorstep experience. This unleashes untapped demand for polyester short-run production, personalization, and disruptive direct-to-fan and direct-to-recreational business models.
• Integration with KornitX’s workflow ecosystem and Kornit Konnect™ dashboard, optimizing process visibility and control, adding data-driven insights for production floor efficiencies.

Cobra International, leading manufacturer of advanced composite products for the water sports, automotive, marine, UAV, and industrial sectors, reinforces its long collaboration with the JEC Group by designing and manufacturing this year’s JEC Composites Innovation trophies. Cobra has designed and manufactured 35 composite material trophies for the JEC Composites Innovation and Start Up Booster competitions which will be presented during the 2022 awards ceremonies and throughout other JEC Group events in 2022.

The 2022 trophies are designed and produced by Cobra’s Design and Development department - the in house team that supports Cobra’s mass production operations with specialist expertise in product design, industrial design & prototyping. The sweeping curves of the trophies are influenced by perfume bottles, linking back to JEC’s French cultural heritage.  The design also combines a pallet of different materials to symbolise the JEC Group’s complete coverage of the composites sector. Acrylic, upcycled teak production waste from the furniture industry, Innegra™, flax, carbon, and aramid materials have been combined with Sicomin’s GreenPoxy 33 bio-resin to reference the award programme’s combined focus on innovation and sustainability.

The JEC Composites Innovation Awards are presented annually, recognising, and rewarding the most cutting-edge and ingenious projects that exploit the full potential of composite materials. Over the last 20 years, the JEC Composites Innovation and Startup programs have celebrated both innovation and partnership. The JEC Group will announce the winners for the 2022 JEC Composites Innovation awards on April 26th in Paris and in live streaming, and the Start-up Booster winners on May 3rd at JEC World.

“Cobra is delighted to reinforce its partnership with JEC Group, sponsoring and manufacturing the JEC trophies for 2022,” comments Danu Chotikapanich, CEO, Cobra.  “These are two of the most prestigious and respected awards programs within the composites industry and one that also matches Cobra’s ongoing commitment to innovation and sustainability improvements. Working with the latest bio resin technology, natural fibre reinforcements and upcycled composite and wood production waste materials our Design and Development team have created some stunning trophies for this year’s award season.”

Nonwovens line specialist Reifenhäuser Reicofil presented its portfolio of high-performance and sustainable nonwovens under the slogan "Living Nonwovens" at IDEA 22 at the Miami Beach Convention Center in Florida from March 28 to 31, 2022.

In terms of sustainability, Reicofil offers various approaches to save fossil raw materials, such as the processing of bio-based raw materials as an ecological alternative - for diapers, for example. Here, the topsheet material, made of bulky, soft, and industrially compostable High Loft nonwovens, meets maximum hygiene requirements. For industrial applications, high-strength nonwovens can be processed even from up to 90% PET flakes from post-consumer waste.

Another highlight was the so-called BiCo technology. In this process, two different raw materials are combined in one fiber in the spunbond process, creating a bimetal effect and causing the fiber to crimp. This opens the door for manufacturers to completely new product properties that are unattainable with monofibers.

Nonwoven-film composites with low grammage
For the medical sector, Reicofil showcased its leading solutions for high-barrier medical protective clothing and - together with its sister business unit Reifenhäuser Cast Sheet Coating - the pioneering Ultrathin Coating production process, which enables customers to produce film-nonwoven-composites more cost-effectively and thus competitively.

Smart digitization
With the c.Hub, the new data platform of the Reifenhäuser Group, Reicofil offers its customers a digitization solution that is tailored to the requirements of nonwovens production.

In 2021, nonwovens production in Greater Europe increased in volume by 2.0% to reach 3,120,967 tonnes (and 87.6 billion square metres).

EDANA, the international Association serving the nonwovens and related industries today released its statistics on Nonwovens Production and Deliveries for 2021. Following the impressive growth recorded in 2020, the updated figures for Greater Europe (incl. Western and Eastern Europe countries, Turkey, Belarus, Russia and Ukraine) highlight again the ability of the European industry to innovate and to invest in order to meet the challenges of the pandemic crisis.

In 2021, nonwovens production in Greater Europe increased in volume by 2.0% to reach 3,120,967 tonnes (and 87.6 billion square metres). Since 2019, the European output increased by nearly 9%.

Jacques Prigneaux, EDANA’s Market Analysis and Economic Affairs Director commented “This 2% average growth is in line with European forecasts disclosed in October 2021 in our Global Nonwoven Markets 2020-2025 report. In 2021, significant growth areas for nonwovens were recorded in building construction (+17.4%), agriculture (+11.3%), electronic materials (+10.1%) and air filtration (+9.1%). Countering this, a further decline of -1% was recorded in automotive interior applications. In some market segments, a comparison with the pre-COVID situation is probably more relevant. This is particularly true in hygiene, medical and wipes nonwovens, which were almost flat or slightly decreasing compared to the level reached in 2020, but still much higher than in 2019”.

He added: “Looking at the different production processes of nonwovens, various trends were observed in 2021. The production of fiber-based materials, including Drylaid, Wetlaid, and Airlaid technologies, recorded divergent growth rates (respectively +2.4%, +1.1% and -4.8%), and spunmelt nonwovens recorded a growth rate of +3.1%. In Drylaid, the highest growth in tonnes was observed in needlepunched, with a 6.4% increase. The production of drylaid-hydroentangled, which peaked in 2020, was at the same level a year later”.