From the Sector

adidas Originals and Wales Bonner continue their collaborative partnership with the Fall/Winter 2023 collection.

Off-pitch styles include an elevated knit set in mahogany brown alongside football shorts in a sand colored nylon with the iconic Three Stripes contrast. Swapping creative sources of inspiration from the 70s to the 90s, key pieces are rendered in a lightweight nylon fabrication, including a pale sky tracksuit with reflective piping and a black nylon top with a contrasting vivid green knit collar. All pieces are available in unisex sizing.

Marking a departure from previous seasons, the campaign visuals swap evocative landscapes for a more refined, studio setting. Decidedly new, yet still grounded in the adidas Originals by Wales Bonner lexicon, the visuals capture a mix of models and street cast figures, as well as skateboarder Na-Kel Smith, against minimal backdrops. Accompanying the campaign images are a set of short interviews and moving vignettes, with the cast answering interview questions hosted by playwright, actor, and philanthropist, Jeremy O. Harris.

Archroma celebrated 100 years of sulfur dye innovation at its manufacturing and research hub in Castellbisbal, near Barcelona in Spain.

The milestone was marked at an on-site ceremony attended by more than 250 guests, including authorities from the Catalan government, senior Archroma leaders from Spain and overseas, current and former staff, key customers and suppliers and other important stakeholders.

The Castellbisbal site traces its roots back to 1921, when Joan Cardoner Vidal founded a dye manufacturing company that was eventually bought by Sandoz, which was subsequently acquired by Clariant, and later, SK Capital to create Archroma. Its breakthroughs have helped sulfur dyeing technology become a staple in the production of denim, casual wear and workwear fabrics over the past 100 years, with excellent color fastness and cost-efficiency.

Home to a leading research center that has contributed numerous innovations, Castellbisbal is particularly known for the creation of Archroma’s DIRESUL® RDT range in the 1980’s, which entered the market as the first low sulfide pre-reduced sulfur dyes.

Recently, Archroma developed the cutting-edge DIRESUL® EVOLUTION BLACK which enables a significant impact reduction in the dye synthesis, allowing for the creation of new black denim styles.
Among patented technologies from the Castellbisbal-based research team are the DIRESUL® EarthColors and FiberColors dyes, which use waste from the food and textile industries respectively as raw materials. These revolutionary innovations manufactured at Castellbisbal for customers, brands and retailers, help to advance circularity in the textile industry.

The appetite for responsible sourcing shows no sign of slowing with Europe's fastest-growing platform, Source Fashion expanding again for its next edition with a 50% increase in exhibitors to over 320 from around the world.

The gateway to the UK fashion industry, Source Fashion takes place on 18th - 20th February at Kensington Olympia London putting international manufacturers and suppliers at the fingertips of UK brands.

Source Fashion offers a unique experience for decision-makers in buying, sourcing and procurement, with the reassurance of knowing that every exhibitor has been audited to ensure sustainability and transparency remains at the heart of their business model. The next show unites manufacturers from the UK, India, Portugal, Turkey Madagascar, China, Sri Lanka, Nepal, Peru, Philippines, Ethiopia and many more. The show will also see the debut of manufacturers from Mongolia, Lithuania, and Tunisia.

Suzanne Ellingham, Director of Sourcing of Source Fashion says; "Visitors will love the quality, diversity and variety of producers, makers and manufacturers from around the world with the best of the best in terms of high-quality knitted apparel, luxury wool knits, leather, denim, and more across our sectors including Fabrics, Accessories, Sportswear, Garment Manufacturers, Packaging, Yarns, Trims and Fixtures, plus Design & Technology."

Connecting global manufacturers and suppliers to buyers who want the security in knowing every conversation is one that could lead to a new range creation, Source Fashion is the gateway to retail for manufacturers and suppliers from across the world. From raw materials, fabrics, trims, and packaging, all the way through to contract manufacturers offering in house design services, the show brings the inspiration and tools together in one exciting destination to bring new ranges to life.

The July 2023 show welcomed some of retail's biggest names. Buyers, sourcing managers, product developers, technologists, and designers from brands and retailers including John Lewis, Mountain Warehouse, Fila, Selfridges, H&M, Lipsy, Lyle & Scott, Joules, FILA, Perry Ellis, JoJo Mamman Bebe, Monsoon, Fatface, Lulu Guinness, Next, Sainsburys, Vivienne Westwood, Stitch Fix, ASOS, Bella Freud, Burberry, Fat Face, Hackett, Harrods, NBrown, Monsoon and many more came to explore and source from Source Fashion's diverse mix of audited exhibitors.

With a content stage dedicated to presenting and discussing the latest trends, innovations, and topics in responsible and sustainable manufacturing from internationally renowned industry professionals, as well the inspirational Source Catwalk shows, Source Fashion is the must-attend event for the fashion community.

On display at Sculpture by the Sea, the land art event that brings the Sydney coastline to life every year, is “Seabilia”, Elena Redaelli’s latest work created using waste fabric from Sitip’s production processes. A creation that draws attention to the environment and its fragility in the face of human activity, “Seabilia” is a reminder of how precious yet delicate this balance is, and how humans must become mindful of their actions before the effects end up being completely irreversible.

Sitip's commitment to environmental sustainability struck a chord with Elena Redaelli, and a meeting between the Bergamo-based textile company and the artist from Erba, Italy, led to “Seabilia”, a work that will be displayed as part of Sculpture by the Sea on Tamarama Beach near Bondi in Sydney.

It’s one of the most popular events to take place in this corner of Australia, attracting half a million visitors who flock to these Aussie beaches to admire more than one hundred works created by artists from all over the world.

Held since 1997, this event captures the imagination of its visitors for three weeks each austral spring and, thanks to the vast area it covers, has earned the title of largest annual sculpture exhibition in the world.

The 2023 edition, scheduled to take place from 20 October to 6 November, will feature Elena Redaelli's work created using waste Native-Cosmopolitan Kyoto fabric which, having failed the company's quality control tests, was donated to the artist.

A post-consumer recycled circular knit fabric composed of 89% recycled polyester (PLR), 11% elastane (EA), and weighing 240 grams, the Native-Cosmopolitan Kyoto is made from recycled yarns derived from plastic waste that’s been recovered from the environment, particularly from the sea and from recycling centres. The fabric is Bluesign, GRS (Global Recycled Standard) and OEKO-TEX certified, attesting to Sitip's commitment to environmental responsibility and protection.

During the process, the artist hand-cut the waste fabric and crocheted the pieces together using recycled cotton and other types of thread.

In the creative mind of the artist, the genesis of “Seabilia” arose from deep in the ocean where tiny creatures inhabit the darkest, least explored parts of the planet. A place where the rhythm of life for the inhabitants is marked by silence and obscurity, while waves and tides agitate the surface above. The life of the ocean, such a vast and imposing environment, is impacted every single day by human activity, slowly weakening its delicate balance. “Seabilia” is intended to act as a reminder of how precious yet extremely fragile this balance is, and how humans must become more aware of the consequences of their actions before it’s too late and such a vital asset is lost forever.

“Following Emersione, a work that was exhibited at the Ex Ateneo in Bergamo during Fiber Storming, a textile art exhibition organised by ArteMorbida Textile Arts Magazine and curated by Barbara Pavan, Seabilia is the second art project where I’ve had the opportunity to utilise SITIP's fabrics. – explains the artist, Elena Redaelli. As it was going to be displayed on the rocks at Tamarama Beach, my installation needed a durable, elastic fabric with structural characteristics capable of withstanding ocean winds and sudden changes in weather. Using waste Native-Cosmopolitan Kyoto fabric was the obvious choice, not just because of its very high quality, but also, and more importantly, because it’s made from recycled yarns derived from plastic waste that’s been recovered from the environment, often even from the sea itself. The different textures and shades of white enabled me to create a varied work that, despite the almost monochromatic tones, conjures a diverse range of tactile sensations. The biomorphic modular composition evokes skeletons of sea creatures that appear to have been deposited onto the rocks by a wave and left there to wither in the blazing Australian sun.”

Once again Tonello will be present their technologies and partnerships at Kingpins from October 18-19.

DyeMate, the ozone, THE Laser
DyeMate is Tonello's new "patent-pending" technology that reinterprets the traditional indigo garment dyeing process, by making it automatic and repeatable, efficient and sustainable: carried out in a nitrogen atmosphere, without oxygen, with controlled reduction and oxidation, to achieve results that are perfectly comparable, in terms of authenticity and "aesthetic flavor," to those of denim that fades and becomes vintage with the passage of time.

Tonello will present a collection of garments with super bleach effects. With OBleach, EGO and O-Zone triad redefined the garment bleaching process, including no harmful chemicals such as chlorine and permanganate, in favor of sustainable and healthy production.

The entire collection will be embellished and finished with aesthetic solutions and details: the natural overdyeing of Wake, the ultra-thin graphics made with THE Laser Lab, the reproducible breakages of THE Laser T and TM.

Collections, design, collaborations
The MSP - Most Sustainable Product - collection, developed together with Kingpins and Denim House, designed by Piero Turk and Serena Conti, and processed in Tonello's Research and Development Center with the latest responsible finishing technologies, returns this year.

Tonello will also present another project: ONE Denim. A collection that aims to combat resource waste in the denim industry by demonstrating concretely how many new denim garments could be made from a single fabric by optimizing processes and choosing appropriate technologies and production methods. The fabrics chosen are from Sharabati Denim, the design is by Piero Turk, and the collection is processed by Tonello.

SA-KE
This project was born out of a dialogue between Tonello's technology and the creativity of British designers Sadia Rafique and Kelly Harrington, who produced as many as 70 artworks that are partly physically present at Kingpins and partly published in a book-zine that tells the philosophy and logic of this unique and original work. A work that combines technology, expressive research and all new forms of image generation, across the boundary between natural and artificial, but still totally human.

adidas and IVY PARK unveil the final installment of their collaboration together, titled IVY PARK NOIR.
The new range represents a culmination of the two brands’ work together, combining adidas’ athletic and functional excellence, with IVY PARK’s signature emphasis on shape, and trend-defying creative vision. Using a singular, black color palette, IVY PARK NOIR intentionally draws focus to fabric, fit and texture, cultivating enduring elegance through sensual, material play.

Considering all chapters of an active way of life- from warm up, to cool down- the collection elevates one’s everyday pursuits through a mix of tight and loose fitting styles. Fabrications include luxurious embossed leather, exposed mesh and lacquered latex that combine to create a complex yet sophisticated capsule. Standout pieces include body-con cropped top and pant, relaxed 3-D molded knit sweatsuits, multifunctional jackets, and the IVY PARK signature jersey.

IVY PARK NOIR’s offering includes footwear that re-imagines a new era of style and function. Sleek molded and debossed elements add an architectural foundation to the collection’s sneakers, while a chunky, over the knee boot offers utilitarian fantasy.

After four decades in the packaging industry, the Manjushree Group is entering the Indian nonwovens market. The entrepreneurs rely on a flexible RF Smart Composite line from Reifenhäuser Reicofil to meet very different customer requirements.

The Manjushree Group operated a blown film line for packaging materials for the tea industry in the eastern part of India as early as 1983. In the years that followed, Manjushree Technopack Ltd. developed into one of the largest suppliers of solutions for rigid plastic products in South Asia - and the family business grew into a group with several business segments. In 2018, the entrepreneurial family repositioned itself: it sold its previous core business to a financial investor and established Manjushree Ventures with footholds in start-up financing, real estate business, and manufacturing - the largest of which is Manjushree Spntek as a producer of high-quality spunmelted fabrics.

Since February 2023, Manjushree Spntek has been producing high-performance spunmelts on an RF Smart Composite line from Reifenhäuser Reicofil - benefiting both from many years of experience in the packaging industry and from experience with Reifenhäuser's blown film lines. "We know a lot about plastic extrusion, for example when it comes to line operating parameters such as temperature and pressure. Processing is similar in both industries," explains Rajat Kedia. "The main difference is the distribution of the products: In plastic packaging, we had an established customer base and sold a lot of material to the big consumer goods manufacturers. The nonwovens market in India, on the other hand, is still forming, with thousands of small companies currently getting involved." These serve customers in their regions, such as hospitals.

The RF Smart Composite line is a standardized spunmelt line for smaller and emerging markets. The line produces nonwovens of the highest Reicofil quality with appropriately adapted throughput. This makes it ideally suited for applications in hygiene and medical technology and, with typically 8,200 annual production hours, it is extremely reliable. In addition, operators can start production quickly because in many cases the line can be integrated into existing buildings.

Before production could start, Manjushree built a new production building in Bidadi, a town an hour's drive from Bangalore International Airport. The building is designed to be sustainable: It uses natural light and fresh air, has comprehensive contamination control, and obtains almost all of its energy from renewable sources. Reifenhäuser Reicofil then installed, commissioned and tested the RF Smart Composite line.

Since February 2023, Manjushree Spntek has been producing high-quality spunmelted nonwovens, including ultra-soft fabrics and fabrics with special coatings for customers in the hygiene and medical industries. The material can be used, for example, for baby diapers and feminine hygiene products, but also for medical articles ranging from surgical gowns to surgical drapes.

Modern lifestyles require more than just functionality. Consumers are seeking products that offer a perfect balance between protection and comfort. The FLEX SHIELD collection offers a range of textiles that provide these functions without compromising on freedom of movement to maximize the wearer’s experience.

The Flex Shield Collection reflects Schoeller’s commitment to creating textiles that empower individuals to embrace their activities with confidence, knowing their gear will not fail and is designed for challenging conditions.

Every article in the collection is equipped with at least one of Schoeller’s pioneering textile technologies. These innovations ensure breathability, thermal regulation, as well as wind and water resistance.

One highlight is the schoeller®-ceraspace^TM technology, which owes its outstanding protective properties to a unique composition of special ceramic particles anchored in a polymer matrix. The ceramic particles are nearly as hard as diamonds and are firmly attached as a 3-dimensional coating to the textile. A textile with schoeller®-ceraspace^TM abrasion resistance performs significantly better than high-quality leather in terms of abrasion resistance. A fabric equipped with schoeller®-ceraspace^TM can also be more engineered to fulfill the required stretch properties, and its production process results in significantly less waste material compared to leather.

Since the rapid growth brought about by the pandemic, the technical textiles and nonwovens markets are stabilising towards a new normal – one in which technological innovation, sustainable development, and intelligent manufacturing are the most sought-after qualities. Held from 19 – 21 September 2023 at the Shanghai New International Expo Centre, the fair amplified this new industry direction, both through its fringe programme and across the booths of the 40,000 sqm show floor. With a nearly one-third increase from 2021, 467 exhibitors representing 13 countries and regions engaged a significantly international visitor flow, numbering 15,542 total visits from 52 countries and regions. Suppliers showcased up-to-date products for multiple application areas, with various equipment, technical textiles and nonwovens for agriculture, automotive, protective apparel, and medical and hygiene especially prevalent.

Speaking at the fair’s close, Ms Wilmet Shea, General Manager of Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd, had an optimistic outlook for the future of the sector: “Sustainability and innovation often go hand-in-hand, and walking through the various halls, zones, and pavilions these past few days the evidence for this was widespread. With environmental protection more important than ever, and buyers across application areas increasingly sourcing eco-friendly solutions, our exhibitors were well-placed to meet that demand. This fair is consistently at the leading edge of technological progress, and with the global and domestic markets showing signs of improving further, we are already looking forward to what we can offer at next year’s edition.”  

With many overseas exhibitors making a comeback, this year’s fair was marked by the return of the Taiwan Pavilion and the 40-exhibitor strong European Zone. Beyond the international areas, domestic pavilions were organised by Beijing Guanghua, China Hang Tang Group, Funing, Jiujing, Shenda, Tiantai, Xianto, and Xiqiao, showcasing nonwovens for various sub-sectors, including filtration and medical. Valuable insights were exchanged at multiple fringe events, including the 11th China International Nonwovens Conference, the Advanced Technical Textiles Industry Chain Synergistic Innovation Development Forum, various events covering marine textiles and rope netting, and the “Kingsafe Dangs” National University Students' Nonwovens Development and Applications Showcase. Visitors, meanwhile, were pleased with the innovation on show across the entire platform.

The fair’s product categories cover 12 application areas, which comprehensively span a full range of potential uses in modern technical textiles and nonwovens. These categories also cover the entire industry, from upstream technology and raw materials providers to finished fabrics, chemicals and other solutions. This scope of product groups and application areas ensures that the fair is an effective business platform for the entire industry.

Founded in 2013, NOPINZ is a UK-based manufacturer of clothing for cyclists and triathletes. The company's first product was the ‘SpeedPocket’, a product that allows competitors to attach their race numbers more easily (and with ‘no pins’) while improving the all-important aerodynamics. Soon recognising the customer demand for premade attire with incorporated number pockets, the company embarked on a mission to manufacture these new product lines itself. Today, NOPINZ boasts a diverse portfolio, with 60% of its products made in-house, catering to a growing customer base across the UK and international markets. NOPINZ creates speed suits for some of the world’s top cycling teams, as well as competitive amateurs.

NOPINZ places a strong emphasis on sustainability and is committed to minimising its environmental impact. Using a microfactory approach gives better oversight and control of the manufacturing process, including sourcing materials sustainably and locally where possible, reducing transportation, and improving access to recycling. “Our ‘zero to landfill’ policy, means that we reduce our wastage where possible and either recycle or donate excess product to charity,” Blake adds. “We hope to become a B-Corp company in the future.”

“We tested out a few printers, before we ultimately settled on Mimaki,” Blake Pond, the founder of NOPINZ explained. Now the company’s line-up entirely consists of Mimaki’s textile dye sublimation solutions.
“During our search we prioritised the ability to produce fluorescence and accurately replicate colours. Customers often come to us with existing kit made by other manufacturers, which they want to match, so accurately replicating colour is extremely important. And even without existing kit, customers occasionally ask for specific pantone colours. When it comes to cycling kit, colour is often pivotal when considering where to buy from.”

As two flagship dye sublimation printers, both the TS300P-1800 and TS55-1800 are equipped to print on the various technical fabrics that are needed for cycling attire and faithfully reproduce colours to meet customer expectations.