From the Sector

Today, March 30, the European Commission released its long-awaited Strategy for Sustainable Textile, with the ambition to move the sector towards the path of sustainability. EURATEX welcomes the EU ambitions to act on sustainable textiles and investments, in order to change how textiles are made, chosen and recovered, but calls for a smart and realistic implementation. Many European companies have already chosen this path, therefore the strategy should support them in this process, especially considering today’s energy crisis.

The strategy recognises the strategic importance of textiles, which are not only used as apparel or furniture, but applied in cars, medical equipment, agriculture, etc. It acknowledges the European Industry pro-active initiatives to tackle microplastics, to solve challenges of market surveillance and the skills needs. More cooperation is needed for re-use and recycling of textiles and to set up an EU market for secondary raw materials. On this last point, EURATEX ReHubs initiative is developing proposals to size EPR potential, to transform waste into value, and create a new capacity and jobs.

The proposed “transition pathways”, which will translate the strategy into action, will be critical in this respect: how will these sustainability targets be reached, what will the cost for SMEs be, how can companies be supported in that green transition, what about the impact on global competitiveness? These are essential questions to be addressed in the coming months.
The Textile strategy is part of much broader package, including as many as 16 new legislative actions and other policies which will directly impact on textile value chain. In particular the Sustainable Product Initiative Regulation released on March, 30 includes game-changing provisions on Digital Product Passport, Eco-Design, SMEs and Green Public Procurement.  The Regulation has an overwhelming ambition and, to be realistic, it would require a new way of joint working between institutions and business, and which builds on lessons learned on data flow across value chains, interoperability, conformity assessment and effective measures to support SMEs.

If wrongly implemented, such an unprecedented wave may cause a complete collapse of the European textile value chain under the burden of restrictions, requirements, costs and unlevel playing field. On the contrary, the changes ahead can boom the entire textile ecosystem and create a model of successful green and digital transition in manufacturing, which starts in Europe and expands globally.

Already in 2019, EURATEX asked policy makers to work together and remove barriers to circular economy, solve the market surveillance paradox in which laws are made but not checked, and to help create scale economies to make sustainable textiles affordable, hence the norm.

For example, there are 28 billion products circulating per year in EU, which is an impressive task for market surveillance authorities including customs. EURATEX has been stressing non-sufficient market surveillance and it is actively working on solutions for a fair and effective market surveillance of textile products through Reach4Textiles. EURATEX very much welcomes that the European Commission recognizes our work and the need for market surveillance by establishing more harmonised efforts in the EU.

EURATEX also welcomes the establishment of the Digital Product Passport. It has a high potential to improve every step in the textile value chain, from design and manufacturing to recycling and purchasing. At the same time, EURATEX calls the co-legislators to take into account the role of SME’s in this transition and to put forward pragmatic initiatives, supporting SME’s across the EU in a systematic approach.

Alberto Paccanelli, EURATEX President, concludes: EURATEX calls for true cooperation with all policy makers and other stakeholders across the value chains to advise, pressure-test and use this opportunity for a successful transition. Our ambition must be to reconcile sustainability, resilience and competitiveness; we know it can be done”.

ITM 2022, which will be held at Istanbul Tüyap Fair and Congress Center on 14-18 June 2022, will be the first and largest international textile machinery exhibition to be held after a 3-year break. The leading brands of world textile technologies will launch their latest machines at ITM 2022.
The latest ITM Exhibition hosted the world textile industry with 1200 exhibitors from 64 countries and 60,000 visitors from 94 countries. ITM 2022 Exhibition in cooperation with TEMSAD and in partnership with Tüyap Tüm Fuarcılık Inc. and Teknik Exhibitions Inc. plans to set new records as one of the most important global organizations to be organized after the pandemic outbreak period.

The textile industry, which is among the leading sectors in Turkey's exports, demonstrated its power to the whole world, especially during the pandemic outbreak period. Achieving an increase of up to 40 percent in exports of textiles and raw materials, Turkey also broke records after records in medical textile, technical textile, and indoor textile exports.

Ranking in the top three in the most important market for the European textile machinery manufacturers, Turkey also attracted attention with its production performance during the troublesome pandemic outbreak. Many European machinery manufacturers, who spoke highly of Turkey's performance, announced that their machinery sales to Turkey increased in 2020 and 2021. Turkish textile companies, which increase their production capacity because they were unable to keep up with the demands, continue their new investments and modernizations.

Leading brands of textile technologies such as Picanol, Itema, Toyota, Saurer, Rieter and Trützschler are among the companies that will exhibit their latest innovations at the ITM 2022.

The vision of the OEKO-TEX® Association, which was founded in March 1992 through a partnership between the Hohenstein Research Institute and the Austrian Textile Research Institute (OETI), is still reflected today in the organization's core values: trust, safety, and sustainability. For three decades, OEKO-TEX® has pursued the goal of building trust for companies and consumers and enabling them to make responsible decisions to protect people and the planet. "Our services bring transparency to the international textile and leather industry supply chains," says OEKO-TEX® Secretary General Georg Dieners. "They enable all stakeholders to make mindful decisions that help preserve our planet for future generations."

OEKO-TEX® market leadership
In 1992, 20 years before the United Nations announced the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs), OEKO-TEX® launched STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX®, now one of the best-known labels for product safety.
"It emerged from the Schadstoffgeprüft nach ÖTN 100(tested for harmful substances according to ÖTN 100), developed by OETI in 1989 to address increasing public interest in textile ecology and health," the Austrian Textile Research Institute reminds us. The limit values and test methods on which STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX® is based were internationally standardized and are adapted to the latest scientific findings and legislation at least once a year - a principle that is applied to all OEKO-TEX® standards. Prof. Dr. Stefan Mecheels, the owner of the textile testing service provider Hohenstein, adds: "From the very beginning, we have considered the needs of all players in the textile value chain and continue to create solutions for current and future market requirements."

At least seven SDGs are firmly integrated into the OEKO-TEX® product portfolio. For example, Good Health & Well-Being (SDG 3) and Clean Water & Sanitation (SDG 6) are reflected in the STeP by OEKO-TEX® factory certification, and Responsible Consumption & Production (SDG 12) and Climate Action (SDG 13) are implemented through the comprehensive MADE IN GREEN by OEKO-TEX® product label.

Today, the international association consists of 17 independent research and testing institutes focused on textile and leather, with contact offices in over 60 countries. They are responsible for the joint development of the test methods and limit values in the OEKO-TEX® Standards and carry out laboratory tests and factory audits according to globally uniform specifications. These comprehensive product and process audits to ensure appropriate risk management, consumer and environmental protection, and legal compliance. With their wide-ranging research and development, the accredited OEKO-TEX® test institutes provide important insight for innovations within the textile and leather industry. They work in close cooperation with manufacturers and make a significant contribution to the development of high-quality textile and leather products at all stages of the value chain.

Mirror of social and political development
Being close to the market, and ideally, one step ahead is essential to supporting companies who are adapting to constantly changing conditions and meeting consumer expectations. Therefore, the development of OEKO-TEX® is not only a reflection of scientific knowledge but also of social and political trends. The focus is always on standardizing sustainable action and measures and making it easier for the industry to quickly and comprehensively implement sustainability goals.

Exchange with third parties is particularly valuable for this purpose. OEKO-TEX® participates in various international multi-stakeholder initiatives such as the Organization for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD), the Partnership for Sustainable Textiles, the ZHDC (Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals), and Greenpeace.
In addition to cooperation with external multi-stakeholder initiatives, the OEKO-TEX® International Advisory Board (IAB) meets annually. The core function of the IAB is to help review consistent and market-oriented Standards development proposals by the OEKO-TEX® Working Groups. In addition, OEKO-TEX® is conducting a public stakeholder consultation to gain further insights from all interest groups, which it will integrate into further development of the Standards.
Using three decades of experience for the future
The founding goal of enabling responsible choices that preserve our planet for future generations has become increasingly urgent over the past 30 years. So, OEKO-TEX® is even more resolute than ever in developing comprehensive solutions. We stand by industry and consumers as a trusted partner for the challenges ahead. In addition to the IMPACT CALCULATOR launched in January 2022, which helps STeP by OEKO-TEX® certified production facilities reduce their carbon emissions and water consumption, this summer, the association will launch a service to help companies transition to the upcoming Due Diligence Laws.

• more than 600 exhibitors
• almost 25,000 visitors, with a nearly 50% share of international visitors: mostly from Russia & CIS countries, Europe and Middle East/North Africa
• trend of increasing exports of Turkish textiles to the EU, record figure of US$ 20.3 billion reached in 2021, trend will continue in 2022

More than 25,000 visitors from about 100 countries attended the kick-off event of Istanbul Fashion Connection. Over 600 companies presented their collections on more than 35,000 square meters of exhibition space and provided information about their creative collections and production capacities in the areas of womenswear, menswear, kidswear, denim, shoes, leather and fur, lingerie and bridal and evening wear.

Turkey is seeing record figures in garment exports, one of the four engines of Turkey's industry with the EU as the largest export market. In 2021 alone it shows an increase of almost 20% compared to 2020. The momentum in Turkey's industry has been accelerated by the pandemic. Delivery bottlenecks could be bridged and near shoring becomes a competitive advantage.

With Istanbul Fashion Connection, the Istanbul Ready-to-Wear and Apparel Exporters' Association (IHKIB) in cooperation with the Istanbul Chamber of Commerce is launching an international fashion platform with a biannual rhythm for Turkish and international manufacturers. The next event will take place from August 24th to 26th, 2022.

• The 16th World Pultrusion Conference will be postponed to 5-6 May 2022

The EPTA – European Pultrusion Technology Association in cooperation with the American Composites Manufacturers Association (ACMA) will postpone the 16th World Pultrusion Conference to 5-6 May 2022 due to the corona situation and the postponement of the JEC World, with which there is a close partnership.

This conference takes place every two years and is the meeting point of the European and worldwide Pultrusion Industry. More than 25 international speakers from Belgium, Germany, France, Spain, The Netherlands, Turkey, UK and the USA will present practical presentations about innovative applications, technologies and processes. Equally current market trends and developments are on the agenda.
This World Pultrusion Conference takes now place on 5-6 May 2022 in Paris, France. The presentation language will be English. The program, further details and registration information is available at www.pultruders.com.

Under the ClusterXchange pilot scheme, the EXTRATEX partnership organised a 5-day exchange in Czech Republic, hosted by CLUTEX (cluster for technical textile).

15 participants visited strategic and innovative companies in the field of smart materials and advances technologies, as well as research centres and the Liberec University.

During the exchange, 92 B2B meetings were organized between local companies and the exchange participants, with 75% of the contacts established leading to follow-ups after the conclusion of the exchange. This collaboration laid the foundation for potential cross-border and cross-sector business collaboration, and participants of the physical exchange improved their competences in the field of smart materials and advanced technologies.

According to a testimony from the company Bipier Srl, their participation in the exchange allowed the establishment of two important working relationships with Bcb Informatica Y Control and Vyskummy Ustav Chemickych (Research Institute for Man-Made Fibers). This cooperation wil allow Bipier Srl to equip their machines with quality temperature control, and to expand the distribution of their products.

The new claim “Crafted Elegance” embodies Bemberg™’s values of preciousness, uniqueness, quality and refined aesthetic blended with innovation and responsible values. In 2021 Bemberg™ celebrates nine decades of commitment to deliver true timeless beauty, style and touch thanks to its responsible innovation heritage and soul. And today it relaunches a new gender aesthetics that speaks about contemporary values of transparency, inclusivity and sustainability.
 
Bemberg™ is all about joyful comfort, premium values delivering an unparalleled wellbeing. It’s the one-of-a-kind material that offers design, beauty, innovation and responsibility all at once.

Its heritage talks about premium high-quality lining for formal and sportswear, but the contemporary and worldwide journeys and designers’ cooperation are talking about fashion, outerwear, innerwear dedicated to contemporary consumers.
 
Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei is the brand name of the regenerated cellulose fiber made from the smart tech transformation of cotton linters - short downy fiber enfolding cotton seeds. It is pre-consumer materials obtained from manufacturing process of cotton oil that are converted through a traceable and transparent closed loop process, taking place in Nobeoka, Japan, the only plant producing Bemberg™ at worldwide level. So, the Bemberg™ DNA is really based on a circular economy approach.

Bemberg™ fiber is the key ingredient of some of the most cutting-edge design innovations on planet Fashion, proving to be a sustainable, responsible and innovative material.

The Bemberg™’s 90th anniversary signs also another important moment for the company. Mr. Koji Hamada is appointed as new CEO of Asahi Kasei Fibers Italia. Mr. Hamada has a strong connection to the Italian market having already spent more than 5 years in the Gallarate’s headquarter working in close contact with all partner of the territory.

The 2022 Spring Edition of Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles is set to return to the National Exhibition and Convention Center (Shanghai) from 9 – 11 March 2022. The fair, once again held concurrently with Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics – Spring Edition, Yarn Expo Spring, CHIC and PH Value, will continue to offer a one-stop trading platform for businesses during the traditional peak sourcing season of the Chinese home textile industry.

The fair provides an opportunity for suppliers to tap into the fast growing Chinese home textiles market and allows prospective buyers to meet their sourcing needs. Following the success of the 2021 edition, which attracted 18,951 trade buyers and 216 exhibitors to participate in this leading industry event, the upcoming spring fair will once more focus on finished products. Nevertheless, a wide range of items are also on offer including bedding & towelling, rugs, table & kitchen linen, home textile technologies, textile design and more.

The Home Textile Products for Campus & School Zone, as well as the Feather & Down Product Zone, will roll out again in the spring show after they were launched in the last edition. The Campus & School Zone was introduced to fulfil the rising market demand for domestic student bedding: “The current demand in China for student bedding is high. There are around 8 million new university students and 16 million secondary school students each year, and nearly all university students and 70% of secondary school students need bedding, equating to over 19.2 million sets needed each year,” Mr Shi Xiangyu, Department Manager at Yantai Pacific Home Fashion Co Ltd, a 2021 exhibitor, outlined.  

Helping businesses to reach their target buyers
Ms Weiqing Peng, Trade Department Supervisor of Wujiang City Yunjie Textiles Co Ltd commented on how the 2021 fair has helped them during the challenging times caused by the pandemic: “We treasure this opportunity to communicate with customers face to face. Buyers usually need to touch the fabrics in person. Many domestic companies are enthusiastic about exhibiting here, and we’ve been really busy as many new and old customers came to our booth. This fair is very popular with the whole industry supply chain.” Mr Leo Chen from Yantai Pacific Home Fashion Co Ltd also applauded the fair for helping them to “reach some big brands in China and explore more cooperation opportunities.” 

It looks like a normal shirt, but it has it all: The new SmartTex shirt uses integrated sensors to transfer physiological data from astronauts to Earth via a wireless communication network. In this way, the effects of the space environment on the human cardiovascular system will be evaluated and documented, especially with regard to long-term manned space missions. Developed by the German Aerospace Center (DLR) in cooperation with DSI Aerospace Technology, the Medical Faculty of Bielefeld University and textile research partner Hohenstein, SmartTex will be tested for the first time as part of the Wireless Compose-2 (WICO2) project by German ESA astronaut Dr. Matthias Maurer, who will leave for his ‘Cosmic Kiss’ mission on the International Space Station (ISS) for six months on October 30, 2021.

"We were already able to gain valuable insights into the interaction of the body, clothing and climate under microgravity conditions during the previous projects Spacetex (2014) and Spacetex2 (2018)," explains Hohenstein Senior Scientific Expert Dr. Jan Beringer. The insights provided at the time by the mission of ESA astronaut Dr. Alexander Gerst have now been directly incorporated into the development of the new SmartTex shirt at Hohenstein. "Matthias Maurer can wear his tailor-made shirt comfortably on his body during his everyday work on the International Space Station. For this, we used his body measurements as the basis for our cut development and the production of the shirt. We integrated the necessary sensors as well as data processing and communication modules into the shirt's cut in such a way that they interfere as little as possible and are always positioned in the right place, regardless of the wearing situation. This is the prerequisite for reliably measuring the relevant physiological data." The SmartTex shirt is intended to provide a continuous picture of the vital functions of astronauts. This will be particularly relevant for future long-term manned space missions to the Moon and Mars.

For example, during the BEAT experiment (Ballistocardiography for Extraterrestrial Applications and long-Term missions), Matthias Maurer will be the first astronaut to wear a T-shirt equipped with sensors that measure his ballistocardiographic data such as pulse and relative blood pressure. For this purpose, the sensors were calibrated in the :envihab research facility at the DLR Institute of Aerospace Medicine in Cologne. Details on the contraction rate and opening and closing times of the heart valves, which are normally only accessible via sonography or computer tomography, can also be read from the data material. The goal is to study the effects of the space environment on the human cardiovascular system. To be able to analyse these effects realistically, Matthias Maurer's ballistocardiographic data will be recorded before, during and after his stay on the ISS. For the future, a technology transfer of the SmartTex shirt for application in the field of fitness or even in telemedicine is conceivable.

Wireless Compose-2 (WICO2)
The project was planned and prepared by the German Aerospace Center (DLR) and its cooperation partners DSI Aerospace Technology, Hohenstein and the University of Bielefeld. The wireless communication network reads sensor data and can determine the position of people and objects in space by propagation times of radio pulses. It is also available as a platform for several experiments on the ISS. The determined data is temporarily stored within the network and read out at regular intervals by the astronauts. These data packets are then transferred to Earth via the ISS link and analysed by the research teams. It can generate its own energy from artificial light sources via solar cells.

ESA astronaut Dr. Matthias Maurer in summer 2021 during preliminary talks on the Cosmic Kiss mission in DLR's :envihab in Cologne. © DLR

Sensors measure physiological data during a test run on Earth. © DLR

With the "SmartTex" shirt, astronauts can wear the necessary sensors comfortably on their bodies. © DLR

Dr. Jan Beringer, Hohenstein Senior Scientific Expert. © Hohenstein

• DiloGroup looks forward to participating in the Techtextil India show 2021.

DiloGroup offers tailor-made production systems from one supplier and will inform at this forum in the German pavillon about its portfolio and the latest equipment developments from fibre opening to the finished felt.

A new, simplified elliptical needle beam drive makes Hyperpunch technology also attractive for standard application. Hyperpunch HαV allows a more uniform stitch distribution in the preneedling process especially in combination with the new needle pattern 6000X. In a complete needling line this felt homogenization process can be improved further by using the new needle pattern 8000X which is a milestone in the needle pattern development process and results in endproduct surfaces with low markings over a wide range of advances/stroke.

The “3D-Lofter” which was first presented during ITMA 2019 in Barcelona offers a wider range of nonwovens applications by exploring the third dimension. A series of single web forming units which work according to the aerodynamic web forming principle deliver defined fibre masses in varied patterns on a base needlefelt. A stress oriented production of technical formed parts resulting in fibre savings or patterned DI-LOUR or DI-LOOP felts are two examples for this technology which explores new application areas for needlefelts.

The 3D-Lofter technology may also be used “inverted” for filling up bad spots in web mats and thus achieves a better homogeneity of e. g. spunlace, thermobond or airlay products. The DiloLine 4.0 concept offer I4.0 modules which not only support the user but also facilitate quality control and maintenance by a maximum data transparency in production and control of operation. The Dilo solutions “Smart Start” for a fully automatic start of the production line or “DI-LOWATT” for energy savings are accompanied by Siemens solutions which can be selected via App or Data Cloud “MindSphere”.

With more than 370 installations delivered to the nonwovens industry worldwide, DiloGroup has the necessary know-how and the complete equipment portfolio to engineer the perfect production line for any product specification. The efficiency of Dilo production lines is the result of long-term research work and experience. Apart from machines for needling technology we offer in cooperation with partner companies also production lines including thermobonding and hydroentangling components.