From the Sector

For the third time, nova-Institute awards the “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year” award in the frame of the “Cellulose Fibres Conference 2023” (8-9 March 2023). The conference advisory board nominated six remarkable products, including cellulose fibres from textile waste, banana production waste and bacterial pulp, a novel technology for producing lyocell yarns and a hygiene product. The innovations will be put to the vote of the conference audience on the first day of the event, with the awards ceremony taking place in the evening. The innovation award “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year 2023” is sponsored by GIG Karasek (AT).

Here are the six nominees
Vybrana – The new generation banana fibre – GenCrest Bioproducts (India)
Vybrana is a Gencrest’s Sustainable Cellulosic Fibre upcycled from agrowaste. Raw fibres are extracted from the Banana Pseudo stem at the end of the plant lifecycle. The biomass waste is then treated by the Gencrest patented Fiberzyme technology. Here, cocktail enzyme formulations remove the high lignin content and other impurities and help fibre fibrillation. The company's proprietary cottonisation process provides fine, spinnable cellulose staple fibres suitable for blending with other staple fibres and can be spun on any conventional spinning systems giving yarns sustainable apparel. Vybrana is produced without the use of heavy chemicals and minimized water consumption and in a waste-free process where balance biomass is converted to bio stimulants Agrosatva and Bio Fertilizers & organic manure.

HeiQ AeoniQ™ – technology for more sustainability of textiles – HeiQ (Austria)
HeiQ AeoniQ™ is the disruptive technology and key initiative from HeiQ with the potential to change the sustainability of textiles. It is the first climate-positive continuous cellulose filament yarn, made in a proprietary manufacturing process and the first to reproduce the properties of polyester and nylon yarns in a cellulosic, biodegradable, and endlessly recyclable fibre.
HeiQ AeoniQ™ can be manufactured from different cellulosic raw materials such as pre- and post-consumer textile waste, biotech cellulose, and non-valorized agricultural waste, such as ground coffee waste or banana peels. It naturally degrades after only 12 weeks in the soil. Each ton of HeiQ AeoniQ™ saves 5 tons of CO2 emissions. The first garments made with this innovative cellulosic filament fiber were commercially launched in January 2023.

TENCEL™ LUXE – lyocell filament yarn – Lenzing (Austria)
TENCEL™ LUXE is LENZING’s new versatile lyocell yarn that offers an urgently needed sustainable filament solution for the textile and fashion industry. A possible botanical alternative for silk, long-staple cotton, and petrol-based synthetic filaments, is derived from wood grown in renewable, sustainably managed forests, and produced in an environmentally sound, closed-loop process that recycles water and reuses more than 99 % of organic solvent. Certified by The Vegan Society, it is suitable for a wide range of applications and fabric developments, from finer high fashion propositions to denim constructions, seamless and activewear innovations, and even agricultural and technical solutions.

Nullarbor™ – Nanollose & Birla Cellulose (Australia/India)
In 2020, Nanollose & Birla Cellulose started a journey to develop and commercialize tree-free lyocell from bacterial cellulose, called Nullarbor™. The name derives from the Latin “nulla arbor” which means “no trees”. Initial lab research at both ends led to a joint patent application with the patent “production of high-tenacity lyocell fibres made from bacterial cellulose”.
Nullarbor is significantly stronger than lyocell made from wood-based pulp; even adding small amounts of bacterial cellulose to wood pulp increases the fibre toughness. In 2022, the first pilot batch of 260kg was produced with 20 % bacterial pulp share. Several high-quality fabrics and garments were produced with this fibre. The collaboration between Nanollose & Birla Cellulose now focuses on increasing the production scale and amount of bacterial pulp in the fibre.

Circulose® – makes fashion circular – Renewcell (Sweden)
Circulose® made by Renewcell is a branded dissolving pulp made from 100 % textile waste, like worn-out clothes and production scraps. It provides a unique material for fashion that is 100 % recycled, recyclable, biodegradable, and of virgin-equivalent quality. It is used by fibre producers to make staple fibre or filaments like viscose, lyocell, modal, acetate or other types of man-made cellulosic fibres. In 2022, Renewcell, opened the world’s first textile-to-textile chemical recycling plant in Sundsvall, Sweden – Renewcell 1. The plant will eventually reach 120,000 tons of annual capacity.

Sparkle sustainable sanitary pads – Sparkle Innovations (United States)
Globally, around 300 billion period products are discarded every year, resulting in millions of tons of non-biodegradable waste. Since most conventional sanitary pads contain up to 90 % plastics, they do not biodegrade for around 600 years. Sparkle has designed sustainable, plastic-free, biodegradable and compostable Sparkle sanitary pads. From product to packaging, they are made up of around 90 % cellulose-based materials with top sheet, absorbent core, release paper, wrapping paper and packaging made of cellulose-based fibres. Whether Sparkle pads end up in a compost pit, are incinerated or end up in a landfill, they are a more sustainable alternative compared to conventional pads that contain large amounts of plastics, complex petro-chemical based ingredients and artificial fragrances. When tested according to ISO 14855-1 by a leading independent lab in Europe, Sparkle pads reached over 90 % absolute biodegradation within 90 days in commercial composting conditions.

Art meets sustainable fashion in the third edition of the project "CirculART", the initiative that sees companies, artists and fashion designers working together with Cittadellarte - Fondazione Pistoletto, showing how new balanced forms of production, design and sharing can be explored through a careful choice of materials and of sustainable supply chains. Three key concepts underpin the circularity of sustainable fashion and therefore this project: Reduce - reducing the consumption of raw materials, Reuse - reuse of raw materials, Recycling - regeneration.

The project CirculART is conceived and developed in collaboration between Fashion B.E.S.T. and UNIDEE Residency Programs, and led by the Foundation's team of curators.

Fashion B.E.S.T. - Better Ethical Sustainable Think-Tank, Cittadellarte - Fondazione Pistoletto’ sustainable fashion office, was created by artist Michelangelo Pistoletto and Franca Sozzani. Since 2009, B.E.S.T. has been working on the development of sustainability in the textile sector, to lead to a contamination between art, which assumes social responsibility, and the world of fashion, which is looking to define a new ethical and sustainable model.

CirculART proposes a new link between fashion and art, engaging both in a conscious and innovative combination of sustainability, sensitivity, beauty and union. The project links territory and production factories, bringing together actors from the different sectors making up the textile supply chain that work on the basis of a circular economy with companies that have chosen to embrace the ideal of sustainability and develop an innovative business model.

The protagonists of this year’s edition are two international artists and two international fashion designers, selected through an open call launched by Cittadellarte: Augustina Bottoni, Lucia Chain, Huge Sillytoe and Rebecca Sforzani, young talents called upon to create a work with fabrics produced by partner companies, focusing on dialogue and on the enhancement of the textile industry production chain.

In early 2023, the programme will give the four selected artists the opportunity to visit and work actively with the partner companies that have joined the initiative.
These are: Achille Pinto S.p.a, manufacturer of textiles and textile accessories for the main international fashion brands; Albini Group, Europe's largest manufacturer of cotton fabrics for shirts; Erica Industria Tessile, a leading company in the creation of textile prints, original and customised designs; Filatura Astro, eco-sustainable regenerated yarns; G2B S.r.l., a chemical and environmental analysis laboratory working with vertical cultivation from which indigo is obtained; Lampo by Ditta Giovanni Lanfranchi S.p.A., leader in the creation and production of zips for fashion; Lanificio Fratelli Cerruti, a Biella-based weaver for haute couture; Lenzing, world leader in the production of fabrics made from fibres derived from renewable wood raw material; Milior, a producer of high quality fabrics; Officina +39 – Chemistry plus creativity, a chemical company with thirty years' experience dedicated to research and chemical application in textiles; Tessuti di Sondrio, a factory inspired by the century-old local textile tradition of processing cotton, linen, hemp and wool; Tintoria Emiliana, garment-dyed production and sustainable practices; Zegna Baruffa Lane Borgosesia, a manufacturer of 100% Made in Italy fine combed and carded yarns.

IFCO, Istanbul Fashion Connection taking place from February 8th to 11th, 2023 is fully booked. Over 600 exhibitors present themselves on 45,000 square meters in the Istanbul Exhibition Center and will be giving an overview of the new collections in the areas of womenswear, menswear, kidswear, denim, sportswear, night dresses, wedding dresses, lingerie, socks, leather and furs in 9 halls.

The CORE İSTANBUL, the new designer space at IFCO, will showcase the latest creations from Istanbul Fashion Week designers, such as Arzu Karpol, Aslı Filinta, Ceren Ocak, Gül Ağış, Çiğdem Akın etc. At IFCO Brands market leaders such as İpekyol, Damat, Kiğılı, Altınyıldız, B&G Store, Lufian, Jakamen or Tudors fly the flag and use the trade fair as a platform to expand their international customer network. LinExpo, a separate platform for lingerie and hosiery at IFCO, presents 140 manufacturers and FashionIST offers a wide range of wedding dresses, evening wear and suits, over 100 brands are shown here.

IFCO Sourcing offers the opportunity to network with manufacturing companies such as Talu, Zevigas, Bozkurt, Bilce Tekstil, Gelişim, Karar, Akademi, Bozpaor Demezoğlu. These international manufacturers provide insight into their performance profile in terms of production, delivery times, etc.
The manufacturing sector is an important branch of the economy for the industry, over 80% of the companies in Türkiye are active in this sector. Many competitive advantages result from production in Türkiye, such as short delivery times, the possibility of small minimum order quantities, high production quality, young and well-trained employees. However, Türkiye also has a lively and creative design scene and high-quality fashion brands that are redefining the image of "Made in Türkiye". IFCO brings these brands to the stage and puts the Turkish fashion world in a new light.

The program offers seminars and lectures. The special focus is on the topic of sustainability, which is curated by Ekoteks Laboratorium, the association's sustainability institute. Accademia de la Moda and WGSN give latest trend information. Up to ten shows will take place on the catwalk in the Fashion Show Center, including presentations showcasing their latest collections.

In combination with Texhibition, the trade fair for fabrics, trimmings and yarns, which takes place from March 8th to 10th, 2023 in the Istanbul Exhibition Center, ITKIB / IHKIB offers with IFCO the complete offer for the international textile industry and trade.

The Munich Fabric Start Exhibitions GmbH announces the programme for the upcoming editions of MUNICH FABRIC START (24 to 26 January 2023) and BLUEZONE & KEYHOUSE (24 and 25 January 2023).
From 24 to 26 January 2023, visitors can expect a range of the latest trends, fabric, accessories and denim highlights from around 900 international exhibitors, an event programme with expert panels, keynotes and trend lectures, as well as numerous networking opportunities.

Economic Environment
Conflicts, inflation, recession, energy crisis, massive inequality, climate change - how companies can position themselves securely in a volatile market environment - this is deciphered by trend analyst David Shah in his key note "Self-Empowerment" and numerous industry experts, futurologists and leading fashion editors in the lecture series "The Status Quo of Fashion" by strategy and communication consultants Alex Vogt and Jana Kern.

Next to David Shah (View-Publications), the panel will include Siems Luckwaldt (CAPITAL and BUSINESS PUNK, RTL Germany), Shamin Vogel (WeAr Global Magazine), Ben Hanson (The Interline), Maria Cristina Pavarini (The SPIN OFF) and Carl Tillessen (DMI)

Digital Era
From digital colour apps, digital twins and virtual models to 3D simulation and virtual dressing rooms - the world of digital fashion will not only be discussed in numerous lectures in Munich, but also brought to life in the new Assyst Experience. Whether it's Carola Seybold, Head of Global Key Accounts at Pantone, Jan Hilger from Roland Berger, Arndt Johannes from Verce, Dr. Stefan Hauswiesner, CEO of Reactive Reality or the experts of the panel "Textilfabrik X.0 - New Marketing Buzz Words or One Step Ahead": everyone will be looking at virtual fashion from a different angle and providing insights into the latest state of the art. In her trend presentation "The weird & wonderful world of fashion cores" at BLUEZONE, Angela Velasquez (Rivet) sheds light on how viral TikTok trends are reshaping denim merchandising.

Sustainable Future
Digitisation and sustainability - the third major theme of the event programme - could not be more closely intertwined. Lisa Lang, Director of Policy & EU Affairs Orchestrator of EIT Climate KIC in an interview with Muchaneta ten Napel (Shape Innovate) kicks things off about the importance of a green transformation for the industry. Other topics in focus: Liv Simpliciano from Fashion Revolution gives an overview of where the world's biggest fashion brands and retailers stand in terms of transparency. Tricia Carey from Renewcell, David Shah (View-Publications), Lien van der Schueren and Guy Buyle (CISUTAC & HEREWEAR), Mateusz Wielopolski (Circulix) and Mario Malzacher (Circular.Fashion) critically discuss whether the circular economy is really the solution for everything or just a placebo. Circular ecosystems are also presented by Franziska von Becker from Hachmeister & Partner.

The race of the new sustainable materials of the future will be opened by Kirsi Terho from Infinited Fiber, Kuben Edwards from Onezero8, Marianne Uddman from Trustrace and Simon Angel, Sustainable Innovations Curator of MUNICH FABRIC START in a panel discussion with Muchaneta ten Napel (Shape Innovate). New products for a sustainable future in the denim industry will be discussed at BLUEZONE.
Another highlight: In cooperation with the Transformers Foundation, an expert panel will also be held at BLUEZONE on both days of the trade show.

Trends Spring.Summer 2024
Gerd Müller-Thomkins, Carl Tillessen and Niels Holger Wien from the Deutsches Mode Institut (DMI) see a "vibe shift" - a turning point. They will analyse what this means for fashion in their trend presentation on Wednesday. The Women's Fashion Trends SS 24 with the must haves of the season will be analysed by Karin Schmitz from the Trend Forecast Institute Peclers Paris - from the glamorous appearance in everyday life, to the play with gender identity, to simplicity combined with functionality and mobility.

Carbios and Novozymes announced an exclusive long-term global strategic partnership. This major agreement ensures the long-term production and supply of Carbios’ proprietary PET-degrading enzymes at an industrial scale for the world’s first biological PET-recycling plant due to start production in 2025 in Longlaville (France), as well as Carbios’ future licensee customers.
 
Carbios and Novozymes have had a partnership since 2019 to develop enzyme-based solutions and address  the sustainability challenge of plastic pollution, both within PET-recycling[1] and PLA-biodegradation[2].  Building on the current Joint Development Agreement (JDA), under the new agreement, Carbios and Novozymes will extend their collaboration to develop, optimize and produce enzymes that will subsequently be supplied by Novozymes to all licensees of Carbios’ technology.  The new agreement grants both parties exclusivity in the field of the partnership.
 
The strategic partnership supports the large-scale industrial deployment of Carbios’ patented PET-recycling technology starting with Carbios’ future industrial reference unit in Longlaville (France), which will be the world’s first biological PET-recycling plant. Construction will begin later this year, and both building and operating permits having been filed with local authorities.  Production at the plant is set to start in 2025 and the processing capacity will be 50,000 tonnes of waste per year.

In its 30th year of dedication to safer textiles and leather, OEKO-TEX® has created a new brand identity. The global certifier of textile and leather products and production worked with branding agency Schwitzke ID to build the clear and unified OEKO-TEX® World.

Based on scientific principles, OEKO-TEX® has been promoting transparency in the textile and leather industry for three decades. Transparency is essential for enabling companies and consumers to make responsible decisions. “The new branding reflects the active, solution-oriented and positive approach. With our independent test institutes, we certify to clear, globally uniform criteria, which we communicate openly," says Inga Bleyer, Global Head of Marketing. "Our new look is clear, consistent and transparent."

The most visible change is the new OEKO-TEX® logo, based on a geometric square and an organic circle, which reflect the scientific approach of OEKO-TEX® and the nature it aims to protect. The logo typo is supported by a stylized, organic form reminiscent of natural structures, such as leaves, drops or textile loops. The reduced colour palette highlights the umbrella brand with a new OEKO-TEX® Green plus black and white. A related colour palette supplements communication about OEKO-TEX® products. The product logos are subordinate to the umbrella brand, creating a unified hierarchy.

The lengthy transition period through 2024 considers sustainability. Customers should start the conversion now and may use any existing labels through the end of 2024.

Avgol®, an Indorama Ventures Limited company, has been honoured with the Supplier Excellence Award by leading global brand Procter & Gamble.

The award was in recognition of Avgol, a leader in the manufacture of high-performance nonwoven fabric solutions, ‘being a notable and valuable supplier over the last fiscal year’ to the P&G Baby Care Business Unit.

Avgol CEO Tommi Bjornman said receiving the honour from P&G for the first time is a source of great pride for the company. “The assessment process for the award focuses on us as the supplier showing outstanding contributions across a range of key categories,” he said. “I am delighted and proud that the Avgol team was unanimously identified as being strongest in terms of our collaboration with the customer, as well as in our continuous improvement efforts across all regions of P&G’s global Baby Care program.

“It was heartening that, in making the award, P&G further noted that Avgol’s efforts have significantly assisted in their own commercial growth during a challenging period for the Hygiene market,” he said.

In 2018, Indorama Ventures Limited (IVL), a leading petrochemicals producer and global integrated leader in PET and fibres, acquired majority ownership of Avgol, resulting in a focused and faster growth of Avgol Nonwovens.

“With the combined financial, technical, commercial strength and expertise of Avgol and IVL, Avgol has been working hard to develop innovative products, putting sustainability front and centre in our plans for the future and ensuring we deliver the very best product and service to our customers around the world,” said Tommi Bjornman.

The second edition of The Modern Artisan initiative has been supported by C.L.A.S.S. with its strategic sourcing, mentoring and presence during the official launch happened at the beginning of November at the Dumfries House, part of The Prince's Foundation. Two days to introduce a capsule that reflects the initiative’s commitment to advance sustainability in luxury fashion, preserve heritage textile skills and creates a new culture where respect, beauty and innovation are blended together. They also demonstrate the shared ambition of YOOX NET-A-PORTER and The Prince’s Foundation to preserve the planet for future generations. The Modern Artisan aims to position artisanship as a viable and attractive career path for upcoming generations, equipping them with the skills to help shape a more circular industry.

The 10-month paid programme supports eight British and Italian graduates through the end-to-end process of designing, handcrafting, and bringing a more sustainable luxury collection to a global market. During the programme, they were given the opportunity to showcase their work to His Majesty, then The Prince of Wales, at Dumfries House.

The 13-piece capsule marks the culmination of the second edition of The Modern Artisan, YOOX NET-A-PORTER’s and The Prince’s Foundation’s pioneering flagship training programme, which commenced in 2019. Building on the success of 2020’s first collection launch, this year’s YOOX NET-A-PORTER for The Prince’s Foundation capsule achieves a number of new milestones in YOOX NET-A-PORTER’s Infinity sustainability journey. It is the first collection to align 100% with the Infinity Product Guide, its sustainability and circularity design guidelines, and its first ever carbon neutral collection.

The design is inspired by Highgrove Gardens, run by The Prince's Foundation and renowned for sustainable and organic approaches to agriculture and horticulture. The Artisans were supported by industry experts from YOOX NET-A-PORTER, The Prince’s Foundation, and several mentoring designer brands, including Gabriela Hearst, Nanushka and Stella Jean among others.

ANDRITZ has organized a customer day fully dedicated to the absorbent hygiene products value chain on November 09, 2022. This event took place at the ANDRITZ Diatec premises in Pescara, Italy, with a variety of key players from the nonwovens industry coming from all over Europe and beyond.

At this event, attendees benefited from live demonstrations of converting lines, market and nonwoven production insights, a panel discussion on sustainability, and networking opportunities, including:

• Recent market situation, trends, and some food for thoughts
• Technology insights for nonwoven roll-good production: Spunjet Soft, Air-Through Bonding, and Spunlace
• Company tour with live demonstration of converting lines
• Panel discussion on sustainability accompanied by important industry players around the value chain

Archroma announced the renewal of its EcoVadis “Platinum” status and further improvement of its overall rating.

Following an assessment by EcoVadis, covering 21 criteria grouped into 4 themes - Environment, Labor & Human Rights, Ethics, and Sustainable Procurement - Archroma further improved its score by 4 points (from 78/100 to 82/100), thanks in particular to its ongoing efforts in sustainable procurement, focusing on supply chain transparency and best practice sharing with suppliers and industry peers.

More details on Archroma’s sustainable sourcing activities can be found in the company’s Sustainability Report for its fiscal year 2022, released on 8 December 2022. The report includes an assurance report by KPMG, who conducted a limited assurance on several core ESG metrics, including CO₂ emissions, water intake, occupational safety and gender diversity. Archroma passed the audit successfully, providing another validation of the company’s commitment to its ESG objectives and roadmap.