From the Sector

In an initiative aimed at enhancing accessibility to certification for small operator groups within the organic textile value chain, the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) is pleased to introduce its ongoing Controlled Supply Chain Scheme Pilot Project. The project, launched in 2022, was strategically developed to overcome the obstacles that often deter small-scale operators from pursuing GOTS certification.

Recognising that administrative complexities and financial burdens can impede these operators, the controlled supply chain scheme (CSCS) system was developed to mitigate these challenges. The supply chain requires an internal control and audit system, and small-scale operations benefit from a streamlined ‘group’ certification process, which reduces costs and eases administrative barriers.

Under the CSCS framework, a supply chain comprised of a minimum of eight and a maximum of thirty small-scale facilities, each with twenty or fewer workers, could be considered a single Certified Entity after a comprehensive risk assessment by their Certification Body (CB). SANKEI MERIYASU, a Japanese textile manufacturer, recently received GOTS certification through this project. SANKEI MERIYASU's success showcases the tangible impact of the CSCS system in empowering small-scale operators.

With the pilot due to be reviewed and evaluated next year, GOTS Managing Director Rahul Bhajekar is optimistic about the future of CSCS systems within GOTS. "The controlled supply chain scheme has the potential for substantial impact, empowering small operators in the organic textile supply chain and revolutionising GOTS certification. Our pilot project is proving that the scheme works as intended, overcoming barriers and expanding opportunities. We look forward to refining and validating the CSCS requirements, in hopes of implementing it fully for all markets in the future.”

China in-store 2023, an official satellite of EuroShop, has drawn to a successful close at the Shanghai New International Expo Center (SNIEC) on 1 December. Over three days 103 exhibitors presented innovative store design and retail solutions attracting almost 14,000 professional visitors.

This year the trade fair focused on high-quality in-store solutions for the first time, offering many inspiring solutions and store-fitting concepts targeted specifically at retailers intending to open premium stores in China or overseas. The Designer Village showcased concepts by leading designers revolving around Visual Merchandising and storefront design solutions. At the “Retail Forum” and “Design Forum” 46 industry experts presented the latest retail and store design trends such as lightweight construction of commercial spaces. The renowned ERDA China Award recognised outstanding store design concepts.

The latest retail technologies on display at China in‑store 2023 included amongst others digital display mannequins, virtual dressers, dynamic lighting systems with shopper identification and AI-based smart shelving and ESL. All of these solutions help retailers improve the in-store user experience, above all of the younger generation.

The next China in-store will be held at the Shanghai New International Expo Centre from 3 to 5 September 2024.

Autoneum’s sustainable, textile and lightweight Propylat technology reduces both interior and exterior noise of vehicles. Propylat was originally developed by Borgers Automotive, which was acquired by Autoneum in April 2023. The versatile technology is characterized by a flexible material composition of natural and synthetic fibers with a high recycled content and contributes to significant waste reduction thanks to its complete vertical integration. In addition, the fully recyclable technology variant Propylat PET is now part of the sustainability label Autoneum Pure.

The ongoing electrification of mobility as well as increasingly strict regulatory requirements for vehicle performance in terms of sustainability and acoustics are presenting new challenges to car manufacturers worldwide. With Propylat, Autoneum now offers another lightweight, fiber-based and versatile technology whose sound-insulating and -absorbing properties as well as high content of recycled materials help customers address these challenges. Propylat-based products not only contribute to reducing pass-by noise and improving driver comfort, but they are also up to 50 percent lighter than equivalent plastic alternatives; this results in a lower vehicle weight and, consequently, less fuel and energy consumption as well as lower CO2 emissions.

Autoneum's innovative Propylat technology consists of a mixture of recycled synthetic and natural fibers – the latter include cotton, jute, flax or hemp, for example – that are consolidated using thermoplastic binding fibers without adding any further chemical binders. Thanks to the flexible fiber composition and the variable density and thickness of the porous material, the properties of the respective Propylat variant, for example with regards to acoustic performance, can be tailored to individual customer requirements. This allows for a versatile application of the technology in a variety of interior and exterior components such as wheelhouse outer liners, trunk trim, underbody systems and carpets. For instance, Propylat-based wheelhouse outer liners significantly reduce rolling noise both inside and outside the vehicle while at the same time offering optimum protection against stone chipping and spray water.

In terms of sustainability, Propylat always contains a high proportion of recycled fibers – up to 100% in some variants – and can be manufactured with zero waste. Thanks to the full vertical integration of Propylat and Autoneum’s extensive expertise in recycling processes, the technology also contributes to a further significant reduction in production waste. Moreover, the Propylat PET technology variant, which consists of 100% PET, of which up to 70% are recycled fibers, is fully recyclable at the end of product life. For this reason, Propylat PET has been selected for Autoneum Pure – the Company’s sustainability label for technologies with excellent environmental performance throughout the product life cycle – where it will replace the current Mono-Liner technology going forward.

Propylat-based components are currently available in Europe, North America and China.

EURATEX welcomes the unanimous vote in support of the new rules of origin under the PEM Convention, as a historic achievement. Facilitating trade and investments in the “PanEuroMed” region (covering 27 EU member states and 24 partner countries in the neighbourhood region)¹ is top priority region for the EU, as trade with these countries accounted for €677 billion in 2023. For the EU textile and clothing sector, the region represents 35% of its exports and 21% of its imports.
 
In 2013 the European Commission adopted a package of proposals aimed at increasing trade between the European Union and neighbouring countries in the Pan-Euro-Mediterranean (PEM) region. The proposal introduced modernised rules of origin of the PEM convention, lifting the prohibition of duty-drawback and introducing the principle of “full cumulation”.

Today, after ten years of intense negotiations which EURATEX supported, the European Commission reached a full and final agreement with all PEM partners. This is a landmark achievement that will unlock the full potential of the Euro-Mediterranean area as the biggest and most integrated region of advanced manufacturing and trading of sustainable textiles and clothing. The rules adopted today will accelerate the integration of T&C supply chains and boost T&C production and trade within the region, both in the East and Southern borders of the EU. In a moment when companies are looking at moving their production from Asia to nearby, like-minded and more reliable countries , it is very timely to have the PEM Convention implemented.

EURATEX’s President, Mr Alberto Paccanelli, commented: “This is a strategic trade deal that can help European companies recover from the multiple crisis which we face since 2020”. He continued “We call on the European Union to not stop here, but keep up the efforts to secure trade deals that are good for European companies and their competitive position in the world. The next objective should be the adoption of the EU-Mercosur Agreement and a conclusive settlement of all trade disputes with the United States”.    
 
According to Director General Dirk Vantyghem, “today’s unanimous vote in favour of the modernised PEM rules is good news for our industry.. We should now engage with these partner countries to fully exploit the potential of these new rules. EURATEX is ready to engage in an industrial dialogue with the companies from the PEM Countries to facilitate their transition to the new framework”.

¹ The PanEuroMed contracting parties are: the EU, the EFTA States (Switzerland, Norway, Iceland and Liechtenstein), the Faroe Islands, the participants in the Barcelona Process (Algeria, Egypt, Israel, Jordan, Lebanon, Morocco, the territories of West Bank and Gaza, Syria, Tunisia and Turkey), the participants in the EU's Stabilisation and Association Process (Albania, Bosnia and Herzegovina, the Republic of North Macedonia, Montenegro, Serbia, Kosovo), the Republic of Moldova, Ukraine.

• Sophie BALMARY is appointed Director of Human Resources and Legal Affairs, and member of the Executive Committee

Carbios announced the appointment of Sophie Balmary as Director of Human Resources and Legal Affairs. Her mission will be to support the growth of Carbios' organization and operations: to steer organizational changes, develop talent and contribute to the development of a stimulating and fulfilling working environment, as well as to secure Carbios' operations within the framework of its industrial and commercial development. Sophie Balmary joins the Executive Committee and reports to Emmanuel Ladent, Chief Executive Officer of Carbios.

Trained as a lawyer, Sophie Balmary began her career at Renault in 1995, contributing to major projects involving changes to the Group's legal structure and mergers & acquisitions. In 2003, she joined the Renault Group's Human Resources Department, taking on various responsibilities, including Recruitment for France, managing the establishment of Head Office and Social Relations for France. In September 2017, she joined Michelin as Director of Social Relations, France. Her previous experience at Renault was crucial in strengthening social dialogue within Michelin by combining responsibility, agility, and social cohesion, capitalizing on her legal skills and in-depth understanding of industrial and human issues.

Rieter has opened its first Repair Services station in Tashkent, Uzbekistan, on December 1, 2023. It will enable both faster repair turnaround and minimum production downtime.

The station’s capabilities cover both mechanical and electronic repairs for all types of Rieter machines, including spinning and winding. In addition, the repair station has a warehouse where critical parts, such as control units, sensors and drives are stocked to ensure quick turnaround times for repairs. The new service station will operate in collaboration with Textile Service Solutions.

Rieter’s global Repair Services network comprises 25 repair stations in 19 countries. Each repair station is fully equipped with the testing and calibration equipment required to provide the highest quality repairs. Certified Rieter repair services engineers perform both on-site and in-workshop repairs, using original Rieter repair components and spare parts. The new Repair Services station in Tashkent complements Rieter’s presence in Uzbekistan, providing state-of-the-art repairs and sustainable solutions combined with dedicated support to local customers.

Faster and more cost-effective carbon fibre production - the technology of the start-up CarboScreen comes a good deal closer to this dream. The founders Dr. Musa Akdere, Felix Pohlkemper and Tim Röding from the Institut für Textiltechnik (ITA) of RWTH Aachen University are using sensor technology to monitor carbon fibre production, thereby doubling the production speed from the current 15 to 30 m/min in the medium term and increasing turnover by up to €37.5 million per year and system. This ground-breaking development also impressed the jury at the ITMF at their Annual Conference in Keqiao, China, and was honoured with the ITMF StartUp Award 2023 on 6 November 2023.

Dr. Musa Akdere accepted the award on behalf of the CarboScreen founding team.

Carbon fibres can only develop their full potential if they are not damaged during production and further processing. Two types of fibre damage occur more frequently during fibre production: Superficial or mechanical damage to the fibres or damage to the chemical structure.

Both types of damage cannot be optimally detected by current means or only become apparent after production, to name just two examples. This leads to higher production costs. In an emergency, faulty production can even lead to plant fires. For this reason, and to ensure good production quality, the system is run at 15 m/min below its production capacity for safety reasons. However, 30 m/min or more would be possible. With the sensor-based online monitoring of CarboScreen, the production capacity can be doubled to 30 /min. This would lead to higher production, resulting in lower manufacturing costs and wider use of carbon fibres in mass markets such as automotive, aerospace and wind energy.

To meet future demands on the amount of textile waste which needs to be collected and sorted, as well as the demand on recycling feedstock, it is necessary to match the demand and need for sorting of waste in Europe and create cost efficiency sorting capacities with larger scale and automation are necessary.

In an online session “Redefining Textile Waste Sorting: Impulses and findings for the future of next-gen sorting facilities” Texaid and partners talk about the current state of development and the challenges for the future.  Anna Pehrsson (Texaid), Gesine Köppe (ITA Augsburg GmbH) and partners present the results of a Technology Assessment conducted within The Transform Textile Waste into Feedstock Project (initiated by TEXAID within the ReHubs initiative) to assess the best available sorting techniques and process.

Details:  
December 4th 2023
12:30-13:30pm   
Online
For registration follow the link.

The programme committee is now accepting paper proposals for the Dornbirn GFC Global Fiber Congress 2024. They will be accepted through 15 February 2024

TOPICS
Fiber innovations
Is the core focus, including all applications like apparel, home, automotive, technical textiles etc. Nonwoven applications itself show very high innovative potential and will be part of this group. Natural fibers like cotton, wool and others will enrich the wholistic approach in the fibres space. Raw materials for the manmade fibre production like Pulp and upstream materials for synthetic fibers will extend this core pillar.
 
Circular Solutions & Recycling & Sustainability
Due to rising awareness of the climate change and the implementation of the “Green Deal”, “Sustainable Development Goals”, “ESG” and other, this pillar became enormously relevant over the years including:
sustainability in general for textiles and nonwovens, new and upcoming sorting- and separation technologies, mechanical recycling and chemical recycling and other ways forward.

Energy Solutions
As energy is becoming significantly important for the whole value chain in terms of costs and sustainability, there will be a strong focus on energy innovations at the next congress.  
 
Emerging Tech
Topics around Digitalization, AI, Transparency and Traceability will get high influence in the value chain and thus open up new approaches in innovation.

Archroma is again partnering with ISPO Academy to inspire promising young design talents in a four-day Masterclass held alongside ISPO Munich 2023 to explore this year’s theme, “CIRCULARITY – Create | Adapt | Revive.”

ISPO Munich is a leading trade fair for the sports industry. It is expecting to welcome more than 50,000 visitors and over 2,000 exhibitors to the Trade Fair Center Messe München from 28-30 November.

Conceived as a bridge between education and industry, the ISPO Academy Masterclass gathers top students from design and fashion schools to collaborate on new sportswear concepts. The aim is to encourage multidisciplinary thinking and future-oriented approaches. The event includes support from industry innovators, including Archroma’s Color Management business, and culminates in a public presentation in which the Masterclass participants present the workshop results to the ISPO audience on November 29.

Sponsoring the Masterclass for the fifth time, Archroma will equip the teams with The Color Atlas by Archroma® to enable them to use a library of 5,760 colors for cotton and polyester fibers to develop their concepts in compliance with leading international eco-standards. The Color Atlas will help the students to both explore new perspectives at the design stage and prepare their presentations with colors that accurately communicate their vision.