From the Sector

• A unique partnership enabled Lectra to test its revolutionary laser-cutting technology in a real production environment while delivering sustainable competitive advantage to the world’s leading supplier of airbag cushions.

Reaching the next level of growth and performance
Global Safety Textiles (GST) is the leading independent producer of airbag fabric and airbag cushions and supplier to the majority of airbag manufacturers.
Recognized for its long tradition of research and development, GST uses stateof- the-art technology to manufacture technical textiles for a variety of passive safety applications.
With operations on four continents, the German group has a workforce of more than 5,000.
The company’s worldwide operations and resources enable it to fulfill high volumes of orders promptly, providing the global automotive industry with a steady supply of airbag fabrics and cushions.To address GST’s main business challenges and meet their demanding manufacturing specifications, the group evaluated the performance of FocusQuantum OPW for one-piece-woven (OPW) airbag fabric together with Lectra in the pre-launch phase of the advanced laser airbag cutting solution. Following successful testing of Lectra’s advanced airbag cutting technology in a real production environment in Poland, the group then decided to acquire FocusQuantum OPW for implementation in China.

A one-off join testing collaboration on customer premise
The result of a mutually beneficial collaboration between Lectra and its longstanding customer, specifications for laser OPW airbag cutting solution FocusQuantum took into account GST’s exacting requirements. Once the development of FocusQuantum OPW was completed, both companies agreed to conduct joint
testing. “We came to the idea of joint testing when we visited Lectra’s R&D center in Bordeaux,” says Uwe Zimmermann, COO, GST.
“We discussed taking validation of our specifications to the next level. The idea came up to do it directly in a manufacturing environment.”
The extensive testing enabled GST’s experts to certify FocusQuantum as a proven technological platform for the mass production of airbags. “Process capability was a formal part of validations at GST Poland,” recalls Piotr Siwek. Manufacturing Engineering Manager. “It was verified and confirmed that FocusQuantum meets GST’s targets. The biggest improvement over the previous solution was the software, which we also helped Lectra develop. FocusQuantum Suite is one of the biggest advantages.”

Worldwide standartisation and rollout in China
As a result of the successful joint testing, GST decided to proceed with implementation in China. “Because GST aims to become a major player in Asia,
implementation of FocusQuantum in China is the next logical step for us,” explains Zimmermann. “Standardization of all our equipment worldwide is mandatory for us. That’s why we decided to work with a global player like Lectra.” With more than twice the productivity of the previous solution, FocusQuantum
has exceeded GST’s performance targets. The significantly higher level of process capability has both improved cutting quality and reduced the number
of defective cut parts.
“When we compare the unit output and unit cutting cost, we see a real improvement over the previous generation, so we are quite satisfied with the machine,” notes Sky Yang, General Manager, GST China. “It’s more reliable and productivity is significantly higher.”

As the global textile industry’s most comprehensive sourcing summit for the spring / summer season, Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics is naturally the ideal place to find the latest developments in product innovation and sustainability. This is especially true in the fair’s Beyond Denim zone, which this edition will feature over 110 exhibitors from China, Japan, Pakistan, Turkey and elsewhere. Adding to a total of some 3,300 exhibitors from around 22 countries and regions, they provide sourcing options for the entire industry, from fabrics for ladieswear, menswear, suiting, shirting, lingerie and swimwear to high-end wool fabrics, original pattern designs, functional & performance fabrics, sustainability products & services, digital printing technologies, garment & fashion accessories and more.

Denim enriched with volcanic ash: the latest innovation from Orta Anadolu
Volcanic ash is not uncommon in beauty products – it is known as Mother Nature’s skin purifier after all, and used as an exfoliator for example – but it is far less common in the textile industry. Orta Anadolu are set to change that with their BIOWARE denim which is enriched with mineralised volcanic ash to create an odour absorbing effect. This technology captures and absorbs odour compounds that would normally pass through the fabric, neutralising bad bacteria while retaining the helpful bacteria that common deodorisers, which contain harsh substances, normally eliminate. This leads to a more environmentally friendly product that is better for the user’s skin.

Orta will also be presenting BIOCHARGE at Intertextile, which, according to the company, is the world’s first denim fabric for muscle wellness. Infused with minerals, Orta state that BIOCHARGE is medically proven to refresh muscles, relieve muscle tension and optimise body balance. They will also present their BOUNCE stretch range, with high elasticity and a ‘street’ style, while CHRONICLE, another in their S/S 19 range, is a blend of heritage and future styles.

US Denim Mills blend tomorrow’s technology with yesterday’s style
Another innovative denim firm exhibiting at Intertextile Shanghai, and another blending old and new, is US Denim Mills. According to the company, their collection at the fair will “harness tomorrow’s textile advances to revitalise the great style visions of the past by adding fashion, comfort, performance and sustainability advantages to authentic denim looks.” This collection includes:

• Selvedge: using the company’s legacy selvedge looms to produce bi-stretch ‘SelvedgeX’ while experimenting with blends of natural yarns and high-tech fibre blends in its ‘HeritEdge+’ range
• Stretch: including ‘Flex 360’ bi-stretch denim with a slight cross-bias freedom, and ‘Modern Stretches’ with a higher stretch range for intense comfort
• SoftWear: advanced finishing treatments for superior soft touch from natural fibre blended yarns and softness-selected weaves
• Sustainable: new additions to the range of recycled and natural ‘GreenEgo’ denims

Kipas Denim step up their sustainability efforts
Well aware of the effect denim production has on the environment, Kipas Denim’s multi-faceted programme to address this is one of the most comprehensive in the denim sector. Their recycled yarn initiative includes recycling waste yarn from the production process, while it also takes waste cotton yarn and blends it with REPREVE® fibres to create an eco-friendly denim fabric. Kipas also uses BCI cotton and organic cotton, and targets each to be 15% and 5% of total consumption, respectively. Furthermore, their Conservablue technology aims to reduce the environmental impact of the dyeing process by eliminating the use of rinsing overflow boxes before and after the indigo dye boxes, as well as ensuring 100% of applied dyestuff remains on the yarn in the rinsing bath.

As well as the overseas offerings, a wide range of domestic denim exhibitors covering all price and quality points will also feature in Beyond Denim. Some of the more notable brands participating include Advance Denim, Black Peony, Guangzhou Foison and Prosperity Textile.

Denim’s ‘next move’ to be debated in INVISTA panel discussion
The market is changing and so must apparel and textile manufacturers. Low prices and discounts are no longer driving sales the way they used to. Today’s consumer wants better quality, appreciates new technology and is evolving their casualwear style. This is the premise behind the INVISTA-sponsored panel discussion which will take place on day 1 of the fair. Titled ‘Denim’s Next Move – New Opportunities to Keep Growing Sales of Jeans and Casualwear at Retail’, participants will learn what consumers really want in jeans and casualwear, the return of chinos and new fabric technologies that are energising casualwear.

The panel will be moderated by Jane Singer, Director and Head of Market Development at Inside Fashion. Panellists will include representatives from Advance Denim, Guangzhou Conshing Clothing Group, Prosperity Textile and Texhong who will share their latest innovations that will help brands and retailers drive sales and profits.

In addition to Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics, four other textile fairs also take place at the National Exhibition and Convention Center: Yarn Expo Spring, Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles – Spring Edition, fashion garment fair CHIC and knitting fair PH Value.

At the upcoming ISPO exhibition, SITIP are pleased to introduce BEHOT, a SITIP Heat Generating Technology for fabrics that has been licensed from the unique ROICA™ StretchEnergy™ System by Asahi Kasei and is already adopted by Santini that is offering Premium cycle wear Made in Italy since 1965.

SITIP is a leading Italian textile company specialized in high-tech and function-rich innovations for sport, technical underwear, shapewear, beachwear, footwear components, protective helmets, and in particular Velcro-receptive fabrics for mechanical fastening systems and a number of innovative technical fabrics for other industrial end-uses, all made through key manufacture technologies that include weft & warp knit fabric innovations.

Further, SITIP has more recently launched 16 unique trade brands, each one specialized in highly advanced innovation solutions designed to fit both market and the discerning needs of the contemporary consumer.

Santini is offering to the market a multi-panel thermal bib tight for the coldest winter training. Made with the special BeHot fabric by Sitip, constructed with the ROICA™ StretchEnergy™ active performance material, it not only insulates, but generates up to 2 degrees of heat as you workout as certified by CeRism, Outdoor Sport Research Centre at Verona University. Complete comfort and protection thanks to the Acquazero by Sitip treatment that ensures you stay dry even in the most challenging conditions.

The design is completed with breathable mesh braces for added comfort and a reflective pixel detail on the leg to improve visibility in low light conditions. BeHOT represents a special combination of a highly refined type of knitted construction combined with this unique ROICA™ Premium Stretch yarn function, and has been especially developed for this new high-function concept.

Reinach, Switzerland, 30 October 2017 - Archroma, a global leader in color and specialty chemicals, today announced its first-ever collaboration with Kathmandu, the well-known New-Zealand born and based outdoor brand. Kathmandu selected Archroma and its EarthColors range of plant-based dyes to create a new capsule collection of the brand’s signature hoodie.

Archroma’s EarthColors range recently came to public attention for being the Gold Winner of the OutDoor Industry Award 2017, Sustainable Innovations category, where Kathmandu also presented their first hoodies just off of the production line. Archroma’s EarthColors is a line of patented plant-based dyes, sourced from up to 100 percent renewable resources. Archroma developed EarthColors using non-edible waste products, from agriculture and herbal industries, to replace petroleum derived raw materials; which are the conventional raw materials used to synthesize dyes currently. This gives brands an alternative when looking for more natural ways of dyeing garments.

Archroma and Kathmandu teamed up to create an exclusive “vintage casual” look.

The colors available in the capsule collection: slate blue, burnt olive and burlwood rose, are made from the non-edible parts of nutshells, almond shells, rosemary, saw palmetto, bitter orange and beetroot, left over from agriculture industry or herbal extraction. The collection is available online at www.kathmandu.com.au.

“We are very proud and grateful that Kathmandu selected Archroma’s EarthColors for their first incursion into the world of nature-based colors,” comments Paul Cowell, Head of Brand Marketing in Archroma’s Brand & Performance Textile Specialties business. “Kathmandu will surely inspire other brands and retailers to explore and adopt eco - advanced innovations. With the help of Kathmandu, Archroma is again showing the apparel industry the way to go, one collection at a time. Because it’s our nature!” “We have been using recycled materials for over 20 years and we are constantly looking for new technologies to develop more sustainable outdoor gear, adds Manu Rastogi, Textile R&D and Responsible Materials Manager for Kathmandu. “Dyeing techniques using plants have been around for centuries, but they require adding huge amounts of mordants* and fixatives**, which could lead to water pollution.

They also tend to have poor light and wash fastness which is undesirable for the consumer and does not promote article longevity. So when we heard about Archroma’s EarthColors, we were immediately excited by what is probably the first technology allowing colors to be synthesized from plants rather than petroleum while keeping similar performance.” Kathmandu selected Archroma and its EarthColors range of plant-based dyes to create a new capsule collection of the brand’s signature hoodie. (Photographs: Kathmandu) Archroma’s EarthColors is a line of patent-pending plant-based dyes, sourced from up to 100 percent renewable resources. (Photo: Archroma)

Kathmandu® Registered trademark
*alum, iron, copper, tin, chrome
** salt, tannings, vinegar

• INVISTA to showcase ‘Innovative Attitude’ at Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics
• Innovative INVISTA products, findings from a new textile industry IP protection survey, in-depth consumer insights and fashion trends will be revealed

INVISTA, one of the world’s largest integrated producers of polymers and fibres, will showcase the innovative attitudes enabling it to maintain a leading position in the textile industry at the upcoming Rendez-Vous 2017 at October’s Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics – the world’s most influential apparel event. INVISTA Rendez-Vous will showcase innovative INVISTA products, offer consumer insights and reveal the results of a textile industry IP protection survey.

INVISTA Rendez-Vous 2017 will be held at Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics 11 – 13 October at the National Exhibition and Convention Center in Shanghai, with INVISTA occupying two booths in hall 5.2 E49 and hall 7.2 E55. 

As a global authoritative trade show in textile industry, Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics has been a platform for INVISTA to communicate with players across the value chain for 23 years. This year’s event will be no exception. The rich and vivid content delivered at the show will focus on INVISTA’s Innovative Attitude to consumers, partners as well as the whole industry.

To build a healthy and sustainable marketing environment, INVISTA cooperated with a number of media organisations to conduct a survey on IP protection in the textile industry. The results will be revealed during a seminar entitled ‘Innovation and IP: An Avenue for Sustainable Textile Industry Development’, which will be held on 11 October, 2:45 – 3:45pm in the Textile Dialogue area in hall 5.2. Representatives from textile industry associations, legal firms and INVISTA will share the findings and offer insights during what will undoubtedly be one of the highlights of INVISTA Rendez-Vous 2017.

The main pavilion of the show will be located in the International Hall (hall 5.2), where three of INVISTA’s most innovative products will be on show. Visitors will experience the latest possibilities offered by LYCRA® MOVESTM BRA, LYCRA® MOVESTM LEGGINGS and LYCRA® MOVESTM HOSIERY.

LYCRA® MOVESTM BRA

According to consumer research conducted in 2016, bra products in China’s domestic market don’t match consumer demands in a host of critical areas, including support, comfort and aesthetic design. To address these concerns, streamline the industry and consolidate its leadership, INVISTA is launching LYCRA® lastingFIT technology for bra wings. In addition, INVISTA’s cutting-edge technology can contribute to meeting specific quality standards in bra wing fabrics, enabling Chinese consumers to experience higher levels of comfort and the appropriate support they expect from a bra in different occasions.

LYCRA® MOVESTM LEGGINGS

INVISTA’s longstanding commitment to legging fabrics will also be on display at Rendez-Vous. INVISTA’s LYCRA® MOVESTM LEGGINGS has already spawned LYCRA® SPORT Power-Comfort-Energy (PCE™) index-certified fabrics, which are now commercially available.

The revolutionary fabrics present excellent recovery performance for LYCRA® SPORT legging products. They also offer the industry an opportunity to develop a number of targeted segment markets – from compression and medium compress to light compression leggings.

LYCRA® MOVESTM HOSIERY

LYCRA® MOVESTM HOSIERY is all about fabric technology innovation. Due to excellent properties, such as anti-laddering, fit and durability as well as comfortable waistbands, INVISTA’s LYCRA® FUSIONTM technology has already been widely adopted in China’s hosiery sector.

A Packed Pavilion

At the LYCRA® MOVESTM Denim pavilion in the Beyond Denim hall (7.2), visitors won’t just see the innovative denim products offered by INVISTA; they will also learn about three themes highlighted through consumer insights – fit, shape and embracing heat & cold. There will also be a special session outlining the latest woven bottom trends, hosted by INVISTA experts.

Introduced commercially in 2010, LYCRA® dualFX® dual core yarn technology provides denim with super stretch and super recovery that fits all day and every day. It effectively prevents seam slippage and uneven fabric surfaces, keeping denim looking good, feeling comfortable and fitting, which in turn creates new denim fabric applications and fashion trends in the China market.

Last But Not Least

An interactive program, that includes visitors uploading pictures they take at the INVISTA booth to the official INVISTA WeChat account, will give every visitor a chance to win a special INVISTA gift. Visit INVISTA at hall 5.2 E49 and hall 7.2 E55 from 11 – 13 October at Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics 2017.

Offering continuous process improvement for automated leather cutting, Versalis LeatherSuite V6 is a step toward an Industry 4.0-ready cutting room for makers of leather vehicle seating and interiors and leather furnishings. The new version of Versalis LeatherSuite enables companies to boost productivity, achieve exceptional cut quality and expand data monitoring capabilities. With Versalis LeatherSuite V6, furniture manufacturers can increase productivity by up to 6%, while automotive suppliers can increase theirs from 8% to 15%.
Versalis LeatherSuite V6 delivers greater precision than ever before for superior leather cutting quality. For that purpose, the new software suite embeds enhanced cutting algorithm addressing latest challenges faced by furniture and automotive customers.
The latest Versalis LeatherSuite’s expanded capabilities also enable manufacturers to manage a wider range of production indicators throughout the cutting process. Developed with the input of Lectra’s automotive and furniture customers, the latest version of the Versalis software suite offers enriched data for process optimization and streamlined execution, enabling manufacturers to reach operational excellence objectives and monitor production. LeatherSuite also empowers manufacturers with decision support, through customizable reports highlighting key performance indicators. Accurate and reliable analyses can be viewed at a glance thanks to the suite’s built-in data modeling.
“With this release, Lectra marks a milestone in terms of customer experience and productivity,” states Céline Choussy Bedouet, Chief Marketing and Communications Officer, Lectra. “Versalis LeatherSuite V6 is the technology enabler that allows producers of cut leather parts to leverage maximum performance from the Versalis cutting room solution.”