From the Sector

For the sixth time now, Oerlikon Nonwoven will be showcasing market- and customer-oriented solutions for hygiene, medical, filtration and other technical applications at the globally-leading nonwovens trade fair INDEX in Geneva, Switzerland. Between March 31 and April 3, 2020, visitors to the trade fair can convince themselves of the Neumünsterbased systems constructor’s extensive product and process know-how.

Comprehensive spunbond portfolio – always the right solution
Oerlikon Nonwoven meanwhile has a very broad range of spunbond technology products and services. The process for manufacturing geotextiles from polyester or polypropylene has been optimized; it is characterized by high production capacities and yields, with simultaneously low energy consumption for producing benchmark nonwoven products.

For the manufacture of hygiene nonwovens, Oerlikon Nonwoven offers its new QSR (Quality Sized Right) systems. Here, the benefits of the Chinese machine construction partner’s nonwoven formation are integrated into the complete solution. The advantage for nonwovens producers: highly competitive solutions at attractive prices with comparably low investment.

Cost-efficiently manufacturing meltblown nonwovens
New, unique and highly sophisticated filter media can be easily and efficiently manufactured thanks to Oerlikon Nonwoven’s optimized meltblown technology. Whether as a stand-alone system with one or several positions, as ‘plug & produce’ installations for already existing systems or in conjunction with other technologies: the Oerlikon Nonwoven meltblown process already enables the cost-efficient manufacture of meltblown nonwovens with the quality requirements of tomorrow. Ever more producers are choosing the meanwhile extensively tried-and-tested and consistently further-developed Oerlikon Nonwoven meltblown solutions.

Airlaid technology for the nonwovens of tomorrow
Pulp or cellulose fibers as raw material for manufacturing nonwovens are currently virtually unrivaled with regards to sustainability and environmental compatibility. The Oerlikon Nonwoven airlaid process is the ideal solution for processing this raw material into high-end products for a wide range of applications. Today, there is huge demand for manufacturing solutions for high-quality, lightweight airlaid nonwovens with economically attractive production speeds and system throughputs. In this area, the patented Oerlikon Nonwoven formation process – which also permits the homogeneous mixing of the most diverse raw materials, while simultaneously guaranteeing superb evenness and homogeneous fiber laying – is setting standards even for nonwovens with low running meter weights. And the benefits of this technology are also increasingly gaining significance in sustainable recycling applications.

P&G patented PHANTOM technology from Teknoweb Materials
Also being showcased at the trade fair stand is the P&G patented PHANTOM technology from Teknoweb Materials, Oerlikon Nonwoven’s strategic partner for hygiene products and wipes. The PHANTOM technology is released to Teknoweb Materials by P&G in worldwide exclusive license. The PHANTOM technology is the superior dry laid alternative technology for manufacturing wet wipes from pulp and polymer fibers, for example. Compared to conventional, known processes, this technology offers superior performances with cost advantage in much more eco-friendly products. Dispensing with hydroentanglement renders subsequent drying of the material redundant. Targeted process management allows the optimal setting of the relevant product parameters such as softness, tenacity, dirt absorption and liquid absorption.

THE S/S 2021 SMART COLLECTION AND STRATEGY: “TEAMING UP IS THE RESPONSIBLE WAY FORWARD”
At Première Vision in Paris, February 11th – 13th Jersey manufacturer TINTEX presents its S/S 2021 collection and a new strategic approach to make the world a better place, a garment at a time in  Hall 5 Booth R50/S43, and Hall 3 Smart Creation Booth S7. “That’s why we decided to update our statement-motto in Naturally Advanced Evolution: a promise and an invitation to work together to develop further collections combining an environment-driven approach with cutting-edge technology.” Says Ricardo Silva, Head of Operations of TINTEX.

“Textile producers and fashion brands should develop their partnership in a much more collaborative way.” Say Says Ricardo Silva, Head of Operations of TINTEX. In a move towards his partners, the company has re-organised its products collection into 4 distinct categories and further evolved its production process in order to guarantee the highest quality and performance of its fabrics and, at the same time, to become more competitive and to allow its clients to orientate better and easily find the most suitable and practical solution. COLLECTION focuses on seasonal proposals while EXPRESSIONS includes a range for all-year-round collections.

THE SS 2021 COLLECTION is imbued with sustainability, innovation and a collaborative attitude. The new range comprises 24 new references built focusing on responsible materials – including recycled or recyclable (100% same raw material), tactile finishes and active performances with smart and cutting-edge technical background. “The main area we developed for the S/S 2021 collection was carefully selected starting from the inputs we had from our partners during some of the most successful collaborations in the past 2 years,” adds Ana Eusebio, designer.

And just to keep the conversation about sharing innovation at best, TINTEX is officially shading the light on its Coating Unit that, thanks to continuous investments, will be able to deliver Naturally Advance Solutions in terms of finishings, not just for TINTEX but also for woven producers that are aligned with the corporate commitment. Come to discover TINTEX portfolio of smartly developed coatings at its booth at Smart Creation, hall 3.

The Oerlikon Manmade Fibers segment will be presenting itself at the Egy Stitch & Tex 2020 between March 5 and 8, 2020 in Cairo – with a clear focus on the needs of the African market. In Hall 1, Stand B2 The Oerlikon Barmag and Oerlikon Neumag experts will also be showcasing the comprehensive product and service portfolio of the world market leader for manmade fiber systems at the stand of Oerlikon’s representative ATAG Export & Import.

The spotlight of the Oerlikon Manmade Fibers segment’s trade fair attendance will be on two core technologies: the new generation of Oerlikon Barmag eAFK Evo texturing machines is to be unveiled within the African market for the very first time. It promises higher speeds and productivity with consistently high product quality, along with lower energy consumption and simpler operation vis-à-vis comparable market solutions. In particular, the numerous value-added features include two that convince with cutting-edge technology: the optimized, innovative EvoHeater and the EvoCooler, a completely newly-developed active cooling unit.

The second technology focus offers new opportunities for the Egyptian market and the Middle Eastern markets in particular: with Oerlikon Neumag’s BCF S8 monocolor and tricolor system, the segment will be unveiling its new carpet yarn production flagship. Superlative spinning speeds, up to 700 individual filaments, finer titers of up to 2.5 dpf – the performance data and technological finesse of the new system have already made a huge impression at numerous trade fairs and roadshows over the past year. The tricolor’s core component is the new, patent-pending Color Pop Compacting unit (CPC-T) for even more flexible and more even color separation. With the CPC-T, individually-controllable air pressures for each color provide pre-tangling, which accentuates the colors and hence makes more than 200,000 different shades possible. Whereas it has been very difficult to manufacture strongly color-separated or color-accentuated BCF yarns from polyamide 6 to date, this will in future be possible thanks to the CPC-T system. As a result of the new design, the CPC-T is now also suitable for processes with low yarn tensions.
 
Expanded product offering for manufacturing carpet yarns
Know-how covering all relevant technologies deployed in manmade fiber spinning plants enables Oerlikon – as the world’s only manufacturer – to expand its range of products and services for making carpet yarns. The POY- and texturing-based system concept is designed for a carpet and home textiles segment that demands particularly soft and bulky polyester yarns with BCF-like properties. Here, the aim is to produce yarns with titers of max. 1300dtex and typically more than 1,000 filaments, with typical products including, for example, 1300dtex f1152, 660dtex f1152 and 990dtex f768. The machine concept comprises the well-known WINGS HD POY winder, along with the eAFK Big-V texturing machine.

Innovative Prozessbandkonstruktionen als sicherer Schutz gegen Elektrostatik und Anhaftungen

Zur größten globalen Vliesstoffmesse, der INDEX in Genf, unterstreicht die technische Weberei GKD – Gebr. Kufferath AG (GKD) einmal mehr ihre ganzheitliche Beratungs- und Engineering-Kompetenz für die Nonwovens-Industrie. Getreu der Unternehmensvision, nur solche Produkte und Lösungen zu schaffen, die die Welt gesünder, sicherer und sauberer machen, präsentiert GKD hier ein umfassendes Spektrum an Gewebe- und Spiralgliederbändern für die Vliesformierung, -trocknung und -verfestigung. Im Mittelpunkt des Messeauftritts stehen zwei wegweisende Entwicklungen: CONDUCTO® 7690 mit metallischen Multifilen und antihaftbeschichtete Glashybrid-Gewebebänder. Abgerundet wird der Messeauftritt durch maßgeschneiderte Filtermedien aus Metallgewebe, die in Zentralfiltern, Spinnbalken und Anblassieben der Polymerfiltration nachweislich neue Maßstäbe setzen. Zu allen Themen stehen die langjährig erfahrenen GKD-Experten bei der INDEX für vertiefende Gespräche zur Verfügung.

Maximale Prozesssicherheit und Anlagenverfügbarkeit entscheiden in der Vliesstoffindustrie über Wirtschaftlichkeit der Produktion und Produkterfolg. Eine zentrale Aufgabe übernehmen dabei Transport- und Prozessbänder von GKD durch anlagen- und produktspezifisch ausgelegte Gewebekonstruktionen und Werkstoffe.

Spunlaid-Vliesformierung: Metallische Ableitung auch für Hygieneprodukte
Mit CONDUCTO® 7690, einer Gewebekonstruktion aus Polyester-Monofilen und metallischen Multifilen, ist es GKD gelungen, Elektrostatik ableitendes Metall so aufzubereiten, dass es auch für anspruchsvolle Medizin- und Hygieneprodukte risikolos einsetzbar ist. Das jüngste Mitglied der CONDUCTO®-Familie ermöglicht eine bis zu zehn Mal höhere Ableitung elektrostatischer Aufladung als herkömmliche Bänder. Die webtechnisch auf der Bandrückseite eingebrachte Metallfaser hat keinen Kontakt zum Produkt. Das flexible Garn aus Edelstahlfasern korrodiert nicht, ist robust und biegewechselfreundlich. Zugleich optimiert es die Ableitung elektrostatischer Aufladung in bisher nicht gekanntem Maße. Diese Eigenschaften paart die neue Gewebekonstruktion mit den bekannten Vorteilen aller CONDUCTO®-Formierbänder: hoher Mitnahmeeffekt, homogene Vliesbildung, optimale Vliesabnahme und einfache Reinigung.

Vliesverfestigung und -trocknung: Jahrelange Laufzeit ohne Anhaftungen
Ein deutliches Plus an Prozesseffizienz kennzeichnet die Erfolgsbilanz der antihaftbeschichteten Glashybrid-Gewebebänder von GKD: Im mehrjährigen Praxiseinsatz als Ober- und Unterband haben sie in anspruchsvollen Thermobonding-Prozessen mit stark klebenden Produkten die hohen Erwartungen an Prozessperformance und Produktqualität weit übertroffen. Die einlagige Gewebekonstruktion aus Metalldrähten im Schuss und Glasfaserlitze als Kette macht die Bänder zu energieeffizienten Leichtgewichten. Jahrelange Laufzeit, minimierte Reinigungsintervalle und hohe Fertigungsgeschwindigkeit unterstreichen ihre Wirtschaftlichkeit. Auch bei großen Arbeitsbreiten oder starken Schrumpfkräften des Produktes überzeugen die Glashybrid-Gewebebänder durch exzellente Querstabilität und Laufeigenschaften. Ihre vollständige hochwertige PFA-Beschichtung schützt Drähte, Litzen und Kreuzungspunkte sogar bei stark klebenden Produkten oder dem Einsatz von BiCo-Fasern vor Anhaftungen aller Art. Glashybrid-Gewebebänder sind Temperaturbeständig bis 250 Grad Celsius und längen sich nicht.

Converting: Praxisbewährte und leistungsstarke Alternative
Kundenspezifisch angepasste Spiralgliederbänder aus eigener Fertigung ergänzen die bewährte Prozessband-Palette von GKD. Insbesondere bei sehr breiten oder schnelllaufenden Anlagen, auf denen Hygieneprodukte hergestellt werden, sind die Spiralgliederbänder oftmals eine attraktive Alternative. Mit hoher Luftdurchlässigkeit und Formstabilität unterstreichen sie einmal mehr die ganzheitliche Prozess- und Transportbandkompetenz von GKD.

Polymerfiltration: Lange Standzeiten, präzise Filtration
Im Zentralfilter verleihen prozessabhängig ausgelegte, mehrlagige Metallgewebesiebe von GKD den Siebwechslern lange Standzeiten. Die aus bis zu sechs Lagen Optimiertem Tressengewebe gefertigten Filterronden oder -kerzen überzeugen durch hohe Schmutzaufnahmekapazität, feine Abscheideraten und geringe Verblockungsneigung. Im Spinnbalken optimieren anwendungsindividuelle Medien in Langfiltern oder Ronden die Filtration des Schmelzflusses und verlängern gleichzeitig die Standzeiten der Spinndüsen. Anblassiebe aus Wabenträgerplatten, die beidseitig mit speziell veredelten Gewebekonstruktionen bestückt werden, gewährleisten durch eine homogenisierte Strömung gleichmäßigen Faserfluss.

Market leader Oerlikon Neumag has its finger firmly on the pulse of their customers with the new Color Pop Compacting unit (CPC-T) for the BCF S8 carpet yarn plant, which is now available for the Polyamide 6 process. The new solution, which was on show from 10-13 January 2020 at the Domotex 2020 in Hannover, attracted great interest from many trade visitors.

Following the trend for multicolored carpets, BCF S8 sets new standards in regards to color separation. The plant, launched as a tricolor solution at last year’s ITMA in Barcelona, makes anything possible – from mélange to strongly separated. It promises carpet yarn producers even more flexible color mixing variants for product differentiation. The core component in this process, the Color Pop Compacting unit (CPC-T), offers more than 200,000 different color shades from three colors. The innovation, which has been filed for patent, is available for polypropylene and polyester polymers as well as for the polyamide 6 process.

Polyester, recycling polyester and fine titers are on trend
During numerous conversations with customers, Martin Rademacher, Head of Sales Oerlikon Neumag, observed a noticeable trend for polyester in the carpet industry even outside the USA. Sustainable solutions are equally sought after: “Our customers increasingly demand plants that can process recycled polyester,” explains Martin Rademacher.

The Manmade Fibers segment presented an additional solution by Oerlikon Barmag for polyester applications that need fine single filament titers from 0.5 dpf and high filament counts: Puffy, soft polyester filament yarns with BCF-similiar properties are produced on the basis of a POY and texturing process. Core components of the processes are the POY take-up unit WINGS HD as well as the new texturing machine eAFK Big-V.

• Investment of approx. USD 1.3 bn in 500,000 t dissolving wood pulp plant
• Key milestone to structurally strengthen cost leadership position
• Significant step towards carbon neutrality

The Lenzing Group and Duratex announced that they will build a 500,000 t dissolving wood pulp plant in the State of Minas Gerais, near Sao Paulo (Brazil). The start-up is planned for the first half of 2022. In the joint venture, Lenzing holds a 51 percent, Duratex a 49 percent stake. The expected industrial CAPEX will be approx. USD 1.3 bn. The project is financed through long-term debt. The corresponding financing contracts are expected to be concluded at the end of the first quarter of 2020.

Key milestone to structurally strengthen cost leadership position
The new dissolving wood pulp plant strengthens the Lenzing Group’s backward integration and cost position as well as its specialty fiber growth in line with its sCore TEN corporate strategy. The single-line dissolving wood pulp plant with an annual nameplate capacity of 500,000 tons will be the largest and most competitive production facility of its kind. Dissolving wood pulp is a key raw material required for manufacturing Lenzing’s biobased fibers. The joint venture will supply the entire volume of dissolving wood pulp to the Lenzing Group.

“Wood-based cellulosic fibers offer an important contribution to enhance sustainability in the textile industry. In line with its corporate strategy sCore TEN, Lenzing is committed to drive organic growth in this market. With this investment, we will become more competitive, act more independently and subsequently strengthen our market position. The trust and support of the main shareholders of Lenzing and Duratex were of great importance for this key project”, states Stefan Doboczky, CEO of the Lenzing Group.

Strong focus on sustainability
In planning the new production facility, particular importance was given to sustainability aspects. The joint venture secured FSC®-certified plantations1 covering an area of over 44,000 hectares to provide the necessary biomass. These plantations operate completely in accordance with the guidelines and high standards of the Lenzing Group for sourcing wood and pulp. The plant will operate among the highest productive and energy-efficient in the world and will feed the 40 percent of excess bioelectricity generated on site as “green energy” into the public grid. With this project, Lenzing sets a milestone in its strategy to carbon neutrality.

After becoming the first company in the world awarded both the rigorous EU Ecolabel and Nordic Swan Ecolabel, ISKO has recently reached another important milestone in its long-standing responsible journey: it has become the first Turkish denim manufacturer awarded with STeP by OEKO-TEX® modular certification system.

The certification results in a powerful tool to implement the company’s Responsible Innovation™ approach. This mindful and holistic vision tackles environmental and social responsibility to reach the goal of a 100% sustainable and ethical denim production, based on three main pillars – creativity, competence and citizenship.

“Responsibility and innovations go hand in hand, at ISKO,” explained Senior Sustainability and CSR Executive Ebru Ozkucuk Guler, “To be awarded with such a prestigious certification is proof that one has to look at the big picture: sustainable actions need to involve and take into account the entire value chain, in the long run, considering not only production steps but also the development of a healthy and safe work environment. It is the perfect ending to a very fulfilling year, we are eager to see what 2020 will bring.”

United Carton Industries Company (UCIC), a leader in Saudi Arabia's packaging industry, is achieving a breakthrough advancement in digital print for corrugated packaging with the installation of an EFITM Nozomi C18000 six-colour, single-pass LED inkjet printer from Electronics For Imaging, Inc. The new printer will bring exciting opportunities for UCIC to enter new market segments, expand its customer base, and create a competitive advantage in the region.
 
"UCIC's priority is to meet customer expectations, which are constantly increasing due to ever changing market conditions," said UCIC President Mohnish Rikhy. "New technologies such as digital printing with EFI's Nozomi C18000 printer help us meet these demands and stay ahead of the competition."

Following an in-depth analysis of the current business situation conducted by the new Group Management, Autoneum expects a net loss in the high double-digit million range for the full year 2019 due to the situation in North America and related one-time charges from impairments. Therefore, achieving the communicated mid-term targets will take more time.

A comprehensive assessment by the new Group Management focusing on Business Group North America and taking into account the course of business from January to November 2019 led to a revaluation of the situation. It has become apparent that the problems in North America are not limited to two US plants and deficient ramp-ups there. Accordingly, a comprehensive turnaround program focusing on operational excellence and the improvement of cost structures is being developed and implemented in Business Group North America.

As a result of the slowdown in the automotive industry and the continuing low market level forecasted in the medium term, the cost structure at the Group’s headquarters in Winterthur, Switzerland, has been adjusted, among other things, by selective staff reduction. To further reinforce new mobility activities, they will be concentrated at the Research and Technology Center in Winterthur. This will include the relocation of the Competence Center New Mobility from Sunnyvale (CA), USA, to Winterthur.

Due to the continuing losses of Business Group North America, Autoneum expects a net loss for the financial year 2019 in the high double-digit million range. In addition to current operating losses, this also includes one-time charges from impairments which are not cash-effective. To achieve the Group’s mid-term targets announced in March (“2019 Year of tidying, 2020 Year of transition, 2021 Return to sound profitability level), an additional year will therefore be needed.

• Elleti Group takes center stage at Denim PV to present a special project realized in partnership with MYR, and to share a selection of iconic garments belonging to M.O.D.E, the company’s Museum of Denim.
• Collaboration will be the main theme of the two-day event, involving not only the leading company’s expertise in garment-making but also its tradition, starring M.O.D.E in its firstever collaboration with a trade show and in Alessio Berto’s  RE-TRACE workshops series.

London – When it comes to long-established traditions in the denim industry, Elleti Group stands out as one of the main key players: strong in the business since the 80’s, the company is highlyspecialized in laundry and garment-making services while covering the entire denim production cycle in its eleven production hub.

Its heritage and approach define a valuable and renowned legacy that is now taking stage at Denim PV on December 3rd and 4th. For the occasion, Elleti Group joined forces and knowledge with MYR, start-up program conceived to digitalize the creative process and connect users, suppliers and final consumers through a digital platform. Both companies will be in the Garments and Finishings area - booth C3,  howcasing an exclusive project to highlight their creativity and competences.

Starting from a selection of bold designs, entirely envisioned and developed with MYR software, Elleti Group worked to recreate their look and fit on six garments, manufacturing each piece according to its signature innovative and responsible approach. Featuring forefront machinery and cutting-edge processing solutions, this relies on a continuous research effort focused on granting high-quality products while increasingly reducing their knock-on effect on both workers and the environment.

The result turned out to be very impactful and inspiring, with denim solutions which proved the mastery of the leading Italian company in the art of washing, cutting and stitching the iconic blue fabric, as well as the great support that MYR software provided in the development of the collections.

M.O.D.E. x Denim PV: an exclusive exhibition to explore the history of denim

Opened on June 19th, M.O.D.E. – Museum of Denim Elleti Group – is a precious resource located within the company’s Headquarters in San Bonifacio (Italy). Here are 106 pieces dating between the second half of the XIX century and the 70s, resulting in an invaluable testimony of how denim evolved through the centuries. For the first-ever collaboration of the Museum with a trade show, a selection of 20 historical garments is exploring three research areas. These are meant to focus on:

• The brand identity of jeans through the main evolutions at Lee;
• The influence of WWII on the design, the creation and the wearing of clothing;
• The history of overall.