From the Sector

The DyStar Group has released its 2017 – 2018 Sustainability Performance Report. Into its eighth edition, the report marks the progress of the global company that aspires to become the world’s most sustainable and responsible supplier of colorants, specialty chemicals, and services in the textile industry, but has also embarked on the business with food dyes and chemicals through its recent acquisition in USA.
The latest DyStar’s Sustainability Performance Report is the first of their reports prepared in accordance with the most trusted and widely used reporting framework – Global Reporting Initiative (GRI) Standards: Core Option.

The 2020 Target
2017 marks the seventh year of DyStar’s journey towards reducing the production footprint by 20% for every ton of production by the year 2020. This goal encompasses the resources used for production including energy, water, and raw materials as well as addresses their corresponding outputs – greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions, waste and wastewater. Results across most key performance indicators were positive, with four of the six 2020 targets being successfully met or surpassed.
In terms of the energy consumption and GHG emission, DyStar is farther from its original desired target primarily due to the impacts from three newly acquired production sites. However, intensive efforts are underway to ensure that the company’s less efficient acquisitions are provided the essential support to align with the rest of the company. DyStar is optimistic that all six targets are achievable by 2020.

Creating Responsible Products & Services
As part of DyStar’s long-term goal to imbed sustainability across the industry, they will also be focusing on expanding its sustainability services. This includes the opening of more Texanlab offices, an ISO 17025 certified, specialized testing laboratory across South Asia to provide end-to-end solutions throughout the whole supply chain.

Stepping Up on Cooperation with NGOs
Increasingly, DyStar is strengthening their partnerships with the Non-Governmental Organizations (NGOs). The 2017 report features an in-depth guest interview with the NGO China Water Risk, on how can suppliers like DyStar can be a role model in creating sustainable fashion.
To encourage and facilitate sustainable practices among its suppliers, DyStar also conducts sustainability-related supplier surveys. For instance, DyStar is cooperating with the Institute of Public & Environmental Affairs (IPE), one of the most established Chinese NGO, to expand the framework of their supplier questionnaire. In recognition of its efforts, DyStar received top ranking in the CITI transparency list for industrial chemicals from IPE, placing them well ahead of many other industry peers.

Embracing Diversity, Engaging Communities
Also, to help meet clients’ demand and demonstrate its responsibility and care in the food and beverages industry, DyStar is implementing a supplier diversity program to support businesses in the USA that are at least 51% owned by minority groups, women, veterans and people with disabilities.
Highlighting DyStar’s commitment to the communities they operate in, the company encourages volunteerism among employees, and for the year of 2017, DyStar employees devoted a total of 205 volunteer hours towards community projects, which also served as a meaningful collective experience for employees to form closer bonds.

Working Together Towards Long-Term Solutions
As an industry frontrunner, DyStar and its leaders are committed to driving sustainability across the
industry. However, significant challenges remain, and the stakeholders of this industry need to work together to derive long-term solutions. CEO of DyStar Group, Mr. Eric Hopmann emphasized, “It is imperative for the entire industry to improve collectively, not individually, and our ability to do so may determine the long-term profitability of the industry as a whole. It is my belief that effective partnerships coupled with stronger support and incentivization from leading companies within this industry could be key to creating a new – and much needed – equilibrium.”

To access DyStar’s sustainability reports, visit http://www.dystar.com/sustainability-reports/.

• Italian expertise, research and green innovation.
• METALBOTTONI ups the stakes with one-of-a-kind interpretations, to enhance its market presence.

At Première Vision Accessories (Paris, 19-21 September) the company presents the new collection VÀNITA, a mix of leatherwear and sportswear, based on Made in Italy craft, with an increasingly wide and coordinated range.

Based on product experience, combining new trends in accessories. The METALBOTTONI strategy is enriched with product novelties which aim at exploring new existing market segments. A strategy which increasingly leads great artisan production skills to meet constant research and expansion of the range, with the world of sportswear becoming more and more pivotal; without forgetting the important sustainable innovations of the NO IMPACT protocol.

No Impact becomes “Committed Accessories”

The guideline for restyling the METALBOTTONI range over the past two years has been the recent implementation of the NO IMPACT corporate sustainability protocol, which has just acquired a new “dress”, associated with the following pay-off: “Committed Accessories”. It is a way of underscoring the constant green development of the company over the past few years, in terms of process and product: use of recycled raw materials, development of finishing without chemicals, implementation of processes which today have allowed to reduce electricity and water consumption to almost zero.

Moreover the range of NO IMPACT proposals for this season has expanded to include not only new metal finishing but also leather label completely made from processing scrap, thus establishing Metalbottoni as “partner for branding elements” also in terms of sustainability. Pure Made in Italy and constant expansion of collections towards sportswear The great skill in metal processing, which for sixty years now has characterised the top-of-the-range quality of METALBOTTONI products, is now combined with constant research work conducted by our in-house Style Office, resulting in new collections which are more and more in line with the trends emerging from major trade fairs. Maintaining a presence on strong markets (central Europe, Northern Europe and United States), increasing the depth of segments and intercepting new ones. This is the main goal also chosen for the Première Vision Accessories Exhibition where, alongside the autumn-winter 2019/2020 collections, there will be a preview of VÀNITA, the new collection dedicated to leatherwear and more.

METALBOTTONI is proving to be one of the most dynamic companies in the accessory industry.

Over the past two years, in fact, it has introduced numerous product and process innovations, aiming at increasing its range especially as regards sportswear accessories. This trend was driven by a substantial increase in demand by read-to-wear and luxury brands in the past two seasons, and today it means new proposals which account for 35% of the range for METALBOTTONI. New collections have been presented in the past two seasons expressly dedicated to the sportswear world, namely GRAVITA, the first line designed by the company for pressure buttons, and MÀRYA, the new beachwear collection. Also the line called LABORA, the classic collection of accessories for fashion and ready-to-wear has been constantly enhanced with proposals combining style and technical performance. This mix of fashion and sport elements is increasingly evident in the company’s product range, for example in the combination of different materials, using metal with nylon or other resins to create new and unique accessories.

Vànita: beyond leatherwear, a world of accessories

The meeting between fashion, luxury and sportswear has produced VÀNITA, the brand new collection which presents a new approach to accessories dedicated to leatherwear, from an allround perspective from luxury to sportswear. Developed starting from solid product research by the company’s in-house Style Office, VÀNITA is a true meeting of styles and elements, a combination of high product standards with unique elegance. This line introduces one-of-a-kind visions for accessories, exploring highly original pathways dedicated to the world of leather. The VÀNITA proposal ranges from accessories for leatherwear and small leatherwear, to those for shoes, bags and the sportswear worlds. There are two main lines within this collection: one is expressly designed for the world of luxury, the other has a more technical and sporty approach. A true mix between artisan metal processing, based on the great METALBOTTONI expertise in this sector, and “ingredients” such as nylon, rubber finishes or innovative 3D processing, which are often combined together.

“Our goal is to offer an increasingly comprehensive range which allows us to explore new segments on the markets where we are present” - says Gregorio Valli, CEO and President of METALBOTTONI S.P.A – “a ‘recipe’ which should be able to integrate our unmatched product expertise with a constant expansion of our range and continuous implementation of our pathway towards corporate responsibility and sustainability”.

Aachen researchers have developed the adaptive textile facade green.fACade, which was presented on 2^nd August 2018 in the Aachen Faculty of Architecture of RWTH Aachen University, Germany. green.fACade is installed in front of a building like a second skin and can permanently reduce nitrogen oxide pollution in cities.

The researchers achieve the reduction of harmful nitrogen oxides (NO and NO2) by coating the facade with titanium dioxide. Titanium dioxide acts as a photo catalyst and enables the oxidation of nitrogen oxides to form washable nitrate (NO3-). Since the facade is also greened, it contributes to the conversion of carbon dioxide into oxygen by photosynthesis. In addition, a green facade creates an optical resting point in the cityscape and reduces urban heat through evaporation cooling. The enclosed pictures demonstrate how the introduction of green.fACade can have an effect. Picture 1 shows the Aachen Central Bus Station after, picture 2 before the possible introduction of green.fACade.

green.fACade is part of the innovative research project "adaptive textile facades", which uses the special properties of textiles. Thanks to its design, textiles can let sunlight and air through, thus contributing to a modern, aesthetic building design. A new feature of the research project is that further elements such as the titanium oxide coating or sun protection elements are integrated into the textile facade and placed in front of the existing building facade. The adaptive textile facade acts independently and thus reduces energy consumption through the positive climatic effects on the building facade.

"Adaptive Textile Facade" is part of a current research series with the aim of developing innovative facade constructions that are climate-neutral and increase the comfort of local residents. The research team consists of the three RWTH fields of architecture (Faculty of Architecture, PhD student architect M.Sc. Jan Serode), medicine (University Hospital RWTH Aachen, Clinic for Ophthalmology, Prof. Dr Walter) and textile technology (Institut für Textiltechnik, Prof. Dr Gries) and was able to contribute its expertise in the best possible way.

This summer the research team was supported for the first time by the Munich architectural office Auer Weber, represented by managing director Philipp Auer: "For us architects, developments in the field of textile outer shells are a special challenge. Here, highly developed textile materials and processing methods are combined with the lightness and grace of fabrics. Adaptive textile facade elements will increasingly turn the "building shell" into a "building skin", a system that not only offers weather, heat and sun protection, but is in constant intelligent exchange with its environment".

The great importance of these topics for the public was documented by the presence of Kirsten Roßels, representative of the Department of Economics, Science and Europe of the city of Aachen.  Ms Roßels explains: "As the city of Aachen, we are delighted with the innovative and future-oriented project ideas that are being developed at Aachen University, such as the adaptive textile facade. These developments underline the importance of Aachen as a city of science and I would appreciate it if these and other technologies could also become visible in Aachen in the future".

Prof. Dr Gries from the Institut für Textiltechnik sums up: "As textile researchers, we see a great opportunity to develop concrete solutions for our urban living spaces together with renowned experts from other disciplines. I'm sure we can make the urban climate more pleasant and reduce pollution."

• Product innovations, thought-leadership and the new certifications.
• A set of strategic green actions, aimed at increasing transparency and traceability in the company and throughout the industry.

Garmon Chemicals relaunches its commitment to an increasingly green and transparent use of chemicals. The new goal for the company, which in January 2018 has become part of the US Kemin Industries group, is to embark on an actual journey towards sustainability, integrating product innovation with increasingly distinctive strategic actions.

There are three main innovations spearheading Garmon’s commitment. The partnership with the ground-breaking project Alliance for Responsible Denim in the exclusive workshop “Doctor Visits”, held in London June 12. The new ISO 14001:2015 and ISO 9001:2015 process certifications.  The innovative “Stretch Care” collection which features a whole package of eco-compatible solutions, specific for finishing in the world of stretch fabrics.

In partnership with Alliance for Responsible Denim for the “Doctor Visits” workshop
On June 12, in London, the stage was set for “Doctor Visits” an event-workshop organized by Alliance for Responsible Denim focusing on the dissemination and promotion of best practices for sustainable manufacturing. The meeting was dedicated to six selected denim brands, which had a chance to meet the greatest experts in the finishing of indigo fabric.

Garmon Chemicals made available its inimitable experience as technical partner for finishing, as well as conducting team sessions with the Jeanologia staff, a leading company for eco-sustainable technological solutions. The six brands brought the finishing recipes of their Never out of Stock styles, to receive support and recommendations from the experts about the most innovative alternatives in terms of sustainability. The goal was to show the brands new possibilities to migrate towards more responsible finishing, improving their recipes as well. This was a way to reaffirm how ecodriven innovations can also increase finished product quality.
 
The new ISO certifications: increasingly high standards
Garmon Chemicals is also pleased to announce that it has been awarded two important certifications for compliance with ISO international standards as regards safety, reliability and quality. Reference is made here to ISO 9001:2015, a certification which sets international criteria for quality management systems, and most notably, to ISO 14001:2015, a standard acknowledged worldwide stipulating all requirements for an environmental management system. This certification, in particular, helps organizations improve their environmental management performance levels through a more efficient use of resources as well as by reducing production waste. Indeed ISO 14001:2015 mandates that an organization should take into account all aspects relevant to its core business. Amongst assessed parameters there are: air pollution, managing water resources and discharge, waste management, soil contamination, mitigation and adjustment to climate change, as well as an efficient use of resources.

These certifications, once again, provide evidence of the constant commitment on the part of Garmon for an increasingly sustainable use of chemicals, aimed at truly reducing its impact on humans and the environment.
    
A commitment which comes to life in the new “Stretch Care” collection
Introduced on the occasion of the Kingpins exhibition in April 2018, the new “Stretch Care” collection is a line of products completely dedicated to enhancing the qualities and performance of stretch fabrics. The special formulations developed for this line, with their cutting-edge raw materials, are especially suited for treatments with a high eco-compatibility rate; at the same time they optimize the production process. It is worth mentioning in particular the innovative Geopower NPS (= no pumice stone), a compound which helps eliminate pumice stone from denim washings, thus reducing environmental costs and impacts. Another ground-breaking product is Avol Oxy White, the innovative bleaching agent designed to achieve localized effects on denim. Thanks to its composition it is an ecologically advanced product whose environmental impact has been reduced to a minimum, a real challenge to the use of potassium permanganate which tends to be pervasively used as part of industrial processes.

“We firmly believe in developing sustainable chemistry” – concludes Donald Mulazzani, Marketing and Business Development Director at Garmon Chemicals – “not only in terms of product, but also as evidence of our responsible approach on several levels. In this way, we want to contribute to disseminating what will need to be the best practices in the future, for the whole industry”.

• More than EUR 100 mn investment in sustainable production technology until 2022
• Lenzing is committed to improving the textile and nonwoven industries as a leader in sustainable fiber solutions
• UN-Sustainable Development Goals as guiding principles for Lenzing’s sustainability agenda
• All Lenzing sites strive to fulfill the EU Ecolabel standard by 2022

The Lenzing Group, producer of botanic fibers from wood, expands its environmental leadership commitment. As a leader in wood-based cellulosic fibers, Lenzing has particular responsibility and ambition to help raising the bar in sustainability in the textile and nonwovens industries. To fulfill this vision, Lenzing is continuing its ambitious roadmap by investing more than EUR 100 mn in sustainable manufacturing technologies and production facilities until 2022.
 
Lenzing’s circular operating models with closed loop production processes set the standard in the industry. In order to further extend the environmental leadership, a major part of this investment will focus on closed loop production technologies for the expansion of the sulfur recovery systems. The second area of investment will be in improving the effluent treatment units. In addition, Lenzing will upgrade its energy usage to more sustainable solutions reducing its greenhouse gas emissions due to the construction of a gas boiler at its site in China. This investment strengthens Lenzing’s sustainability leadership at its Viscose facility in Nanjing.
 
The investments underline Lenzing’s commitment to the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals (SDG) as guiding principles for its sustainability agenda. One of the most significant SDGs for the company is SDG 12: Responsible production and consumption.
 
Stefan Doboczky, Chief Executive Officer, comments: “The textile and the nonwoven industries face fundamental challenges related to sustainability. Lenzing is passionate to take a leadership role in addressing this and making the world a better place. Our holistic approach to sustainability underpins this scope. The new eco-investment program is a major step forward in our ambitions.”
 
“The United Nations Sustainable Development Goals are a universal call for a sustainable economy that protects the planet and ensures prosperity and well-being for all people”, states Lenzing Chief Commercial
Officer Robert van de Kerkhof. “With our REFIBRA™ technology, Lenzing is innovating to support a more circular, bio-based economy, contributing in particular to SDG 12”, he adds.
 
With the Lenzing Group sustainability targets announced in 2018, Lenzing strives to upgrade all its production sites to the ambitious European Ecolabel standard by 2022. As a result, Lenzing is one of the first companies to commit to a global sustainability-oriented manufacturing standard.

Wolford is recognized for high quality Skin wear and is a favorite among fashion influencers. Wolford realizes that when it comes to luxury, consumers expect brands to be responsible. In response, Wolford understands sustainable luxury is a new brand ingredient and are dedicated to expanding their collections each season and infusing responsible materials.

This July at Interfiliere, gain a sneak peek into the launch of Wolford’s Aurora collection of leggings and pullovers that are Cradle to Cradle gold certified, first one in the world! The new styles created use premium stretch yarn belonging to the ROICA™ Eco-Smart family, the world’s first yarn awarded Cradle2Cradle Material Health Gold Level Certificate and Hohenstein Environment compatibility certification, which provides evidence of compliance and offers confidence as a responsible choice. In addition to premium stretch yarn from ROICA™ Eco-Smart family, the Aurora pieces are made using two other responsible fibers, Lenzing Modal® a cellulosic fiber derived from sustainable forestry, and infinito® by Lauffenmühle, a specially modified oil based biodegradable polymer.’

Instead of using new materials, Wolford’s new collection is developed to return the ingredients back to the cycle, they simply borrow them for the lifetime of the product, which supports responsible product ingredient sourcing. At the end of the Aurora collection product lifecycle, Wolford will return them to an industrial composting station to naturally breakdown without releasing harmful environmental substances. Wolford is committed to becoming part of the solution and activating change as they continue to explore responsible material innovations.

Be sure to attend Première Vision NY Smart Talk on July 17th, 2018 at 2:00p to meet to Wolford’s own Andreas Roehrich, Director, Product Develoment & Innovation to discuss technology and Wolford’s quest to become a responsible luxury brand.
 

Exhibitors from over 30 countries participating at Kenya's Biggest Int'l. Multi-Sector Trade Exhibition

The largest international trade exhibition in Africa for multi-sector products, equipment and machinery will take place at KICC, Nairobi, Kenya from 04 - 06 September with record breaking numbers. Exhibitors and trade visitors are said to increase by 27% and 24% respectively at the 21st edition of the Kenya International Trade Exhibition (KITE). The exhibition has grown in stature from its inception 22 years ago, as the key networking and sourcing platform for the industries. As the largest event of its kind, it ensures direct access to over 150 exhibitors from 30 countries and more than 12,000 trade visitors.

With an amazing array of products and services from all over the world, it gives visitors the opportunity to source cutting edge products and services as well as learn about and discuss the latest market trends. There is no other related trade exhibition in East Africa that delivers the same quality, quantity and variety of buyers and distributors.

Concentrating on some of the largest growth categories within the multi sector industry, Kenya International Trade Exhibition (KITE) 2018 has five distinct sub categories, namely: FOODAGRO, MEDEXPO, PPPEXPO & INDUSMACH which will cover the food, hotel & agricultural sectors, medical & pharmaceuticals, plastic, printing & packaging sector, the industrial and finally the consumer sector. Being centrally located, Kenya emerges as one of the largest importers in Africa. Kenya also has the largest economy in east Africa and is a regional financial and transportation hub.

FILPUCCI GROUP proceeds along the path of commitment towards an ever more responsible innovation. The group takes part in the 83rd edition of Pitti Filati (June 27-29, 2018) with unique products, high-end knitwear and creative yarns, all resulting from the authentic Smart Innovation the company has been long committed to.
 
Research, style and fashion are key words for the world-renown Tuscan company, which unveils an always more responsible approach both at a corporate level and in terms of offer.
Here are some key elements to prove Filpucci’s relentless commitment:

• The GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) and OCS (Organic Content Standard) certifications obtained by the Filpucci dyeing plant add to the Clear to Wear (CTW) standard developed by Inditex Group and achieved in 2014 and to the Detox commitment, which was signed in February, 2016.
• Not only the best raw materials, but also an established knowhow in the fields of dyeing and finishing, always under the key concept of Responsible Innovation. This concept extends to each and every FILPUCCI collection and their ever-increasing offer, the roughly twenty innovative new items, the Woolen line of carded yarns and the real spearhead of premium fashion, the Collection. Among this season’s new offer: Baby Camel Re.Verso™, RWS- certified merino organic wool, Re.Verso™ cashmere, organic silks and FSC-certified viscose.
• The achievement of further certifications such as the FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) for viscose shows the care and respect towards the ecosystem as a whole, guaranteeing a product derived from a forest or a plantation forest in the respect of strict environmental, social and economic standards. The RWS (Responsible Wool Standard) finally guarantees the use of wool coming from livestock managed under rigorous criteria oriented towards the wellbeing of animals and the reduction of environmental impact.
• Filpucci Group is all about a constant vocation towards new generation values and a reliable, traceable and transparent manufacturing process, as shown by the Re.Verso™ circular economy supply chain, of which the group is a unique ambassador in the field of high-end/low-impact knitwear yarns.

With absolute quality always in mind, FILPUCCI GROUP represents a corporate model that has made of sustainability a real mission, embarking on complex paths that have brought great results with fashionable textile solutions lead by ethnical and sustainable values. Thanks to this, Filpucci’s products have become part of Patagonia Collections, an important acknowledging from the brand’s part, whose managers stated: “We are always on the hunt for the highest performing, lowest impact materials. We were thrilled to find Re.Verso ™ (95/5 transformed) Cashmere yarn from Filpucci. It allowed us to create a range of products with the insulative and soft properties of cashmere while adhering to our mission statement; build the best product, cause no unnecessary harm.”
FILPUCCI GROUP’s commitment is evident and it moves forward thanks to the passion towards responsible and innovative paths that contribute to turning the group into a reliable partner, symbol of quality and excellence.

Filpucci is also a C.L.A.S.S. (Creativity Lifestyle And Sustainable Synergy) partner.

For Schoeller Summer 2020 everything flows smoothly. The fabrics move with a fluid lightness in a closed ecological cycle. Upcycled products with ECONYL® yarn and the PFC-free ecorepel® Bio technology based on renewable raw materials are two ecological highlights of the 2020 Summer Collection, which is being developed and produced in the heart of the Swiss mountains. Color effects turn the functional textiles into exciting multicolors with contrasting reverses and fresh, modern plain colors that can easily be combined.

REGENERATED ECONYL® YARN
The textiles manufactured by Schoeller using ECONYL® yarn made from regenerated material are genuine upcycled products. The ECONYL® Reclaiming Program of Aquafil S.P.A. reduces global waste by collecting recyclable materials from landfill sites and the world’s oceans and returning them into the production cycle. The resulting yarn is no different from conventional textiles in terms of quality and appearance. The Schoeller fabric family with ECONYL® yarn encompasses a complete package with diverse exciting qualities such as ultra-light, bi-elastic schoeller®-dynamic (e.g. for windbreaker blousons), very soft, fine schoeller®-dryskin (e.g. for high-tech shorts) and lightweight schoeller®-WB-400.

ECO-CREATED
New, supersoft soft-shells with ECONYL® yarn are available with different backings and weights depending on the situation. The lightest schoeller®-WB-400 radiates a sense of summer in fresh tones such as melon, oxygen blue or khaki with a smooth jersey reverse in contrasting colors, also made from ECONYL® yarn. A slightly heavier quality surprises in classic black with an elegant, navy blue reverse, while the Bordeaux nuance of the soft-shell with its brushed reverse in stone grey feels warm, soft and cozy. The fluorocarbon-free ecorepel® bio-technology, based on renewable raw materials, offers sustainable water repellence.

WHITE MATTER
The dominant features of summer 2020, alongside sustainable textiles and technologies made from natural materials, are inspired multicolors. The comfortable, multicolored schoeller®-WB-400 qualities produce completely new color effects and create a cheerful look – both for outdoor activities and in urban sportswear. The combination of melon, ocean green and stone grey with white changes the mood of the original colors and lends the textiles an unexpectedly chalky, summery look. Another striking feature is the lightweight, white jersey backing, which is only revealed at second glance.

AUGMENTED ORIGINALS
The presentation of the authentic schoeller®-dynamic qualities is no less lively, ranging from mossy green tones and blue nuances through to the brown variations of tree bark. The multicolors combine perfectly with plain fabrics and are impressively functional thanks to the PFC-free ecorepel® bio-technology, which also provides reliable water repellence. The basic qualities of the lightweight schoeller®-dryskin trousers and jackets are given a touch of elegance in the form of a discreet sheen and fashionable colors. In soft blues and greens, these supple all-rounders are highly wear resistant and offer ideal moisture management through the microfibers on the inside. They also feature ecorepel® bio-technology for water repellence.

Archroma, a global leader in color and specialty chemicals, has presented an aniline-free* denim indigo dye at the recent Planet Textiles 2018 Conference in Vancouver, Canada. The brand new dye provides a non-toxic way to produce the traditional, iconic indigo blue that consumers associate with denim and jeans.
Currently, aniline impurities are an unavoidable element of producing indigo-dyed denim. Unlike other chemical impurities, aniline is locked into the indigo pigment during the dyeing process and therefore cannot be washed off the fabric.

Scientific testing has shown that aniline impurities are toxic to humans, causing skin allergies, damage to major organs and genetic defects, as well as being linked to cancer. Aniline is also toxic to aquatic life, which is an issue as two thirds of the 400 metric tons of aniline waste on an annual basis ends up in the environment as wastewater discharge. The toxic chemical is therefore starting to feature on the restricted substance lists (RSL) of some major clothing brands and retailers. “We have tested denim garments and found that aniline concentrations are frequently higher than expected,” says Alexander Wessels, CEO, Archroma. “This could put some manufacturers over the limits agreed on their RSLs.”

True to its commitment to take on innovation challenges, Archroma decided to take a closer look at the issue with its R&D experts, and developed an alternative system that is aniline free*.
“At Archroma, we continuously challenge the status quo in the deep belief that we can make our industry sustainable,” continues Alexander Wessels. “By removing a hazardous impurity from the denim supply chain, we aim to protect the workers who create denim, the consumers who wear denim, and the environment with cleaner waterways.” The Denisol® Pure Indigo 30 dye is the latest in a long line of sustainable innovations for denim started in 2009. That year, Archroma introduced its ‘Advanced Denim’ technology which uses up to 90% less water during the dyeing process. “Being not indigo but sulfur based, ‘Advanced Denim’ itself was an aniline free solution too!”, adds Alexander Wessels. For designers and brand owners who long for authentic indigo inspiration, the new Denisol® Pure Indigo 30 now also makes it possible to produce indigo-dyed denim without high levels aniline impurities. Archroma successfully tested Denisol® Pure Indigo 30 at Absolute Denim mill in Thailand. “During the testing everything performed exactly the same as it would with conventional indigo,” says Vichai Phromvanich, Board Member, Absolute Denim. “There was just one important difference: no aniline.”

“We’ve had an overwhelming positive reaction from the industry in sneak previews and during the launch at Planet Textiles,” continues Alexander Wessels. “As a responsible industry leader, we believe it’s important to actively look for eco-advanced solutions that are attractive and at the same time cost-efficient for clothing brands, retailers and end-consumers.”

Archroma will make the Denisol® Pure Indigo 30 dye in the most sustainable way as possible. The new dye will be produced in Archroma’s facility in Pakistan, a plant that made the headlines in 2012 for being what Archroma believed to be the industry’s first zero liquid discharge plant.