From the Sector

• Spunbond, meltblown and composite structures for new market opportunities

RadiciGroup is participating with its Advanced Textile Solutions business area at Index in Geneva from 18 to 21 April 2023. Among the Group’s products showcased are spunbond and meltblown for different application sectors, such as roofing, construction, automotive, HO.RE.CA. and filtration.

“The key message we are bringing to the fair is sustainability,” noted Enrico Buriani, CEO of the Nonwovens division of RadiciGroup Advanced Textile Solutions. “Those who already know us know that, for many years, the Group has been focused on proposing low environmental impact products and processes where sustainability is scientifically measured or certified by independent third parties. Our company is dedicated to nonwovens, which, by the way, are produced using 100% renewable energy. We have expanded our portfolio of innovative solutions for customers interested in realizing projects with sustainability as an essential requirement.”

Respunsible® is a spunbond brand manufactured from recycled polypropylene. A preliminary Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) study was carried out by RadiciGroup to demonstrate the correlation between the reduction in environmental impact and the percentage increase in recycled material. The final results demonstrate that a variable percentage of from 50 to 70% recycled material leads to a reduction in CO2 emissions of from 30 to 40%, compared to a fabric made of 100% virgin material, without comprising high technical performance.

Additionally, since RadiciGroup has achieved ISCC PLUS certification (International Sustainability and Carbon Certification), it can offer bio, biocircular or circular polypropylene spunbond and meltblown nonwovens, in which the sustainable polypropylene is biomass balanced. This certification signifies traceability along the supply chain and verifies that the certified companies meet high environmental and social standards.

“Since 2020, we have had a technologically advanced meltblown production line,” Mr. Buriani concluded. “This allows us to make composite structures, sold under the brand name Radimelt®. Now our goal is to expand our filtration applications, diversifying and developing new business, for instance vacuum cleaner bags or HVAC (heating, ventilation and air conditioning) system filters, where we can meet the high efficiency and mechanical resistance demanded, thanks to our latest generation technology.”

The diabetic community has always been a priority for Hologenix, creators of CELLIANT® infrared technology, so the company embarked on an initial study to test the hypothesis that the technology can positively impact diabetic patients with vascular impairment, now published in Journal of Textile Science & Engineering. Another study is underway as well with more research on the horizon.

According to statistics cited in the International Diabetes Federation Diabetes Atlas, 9th edition, globally, close to a half billion people are living with diabetes and that number is expected to increase by more than 50 percent in the next 25 years.
 
The introduction of the study in the Journal of Textile Science & Engineering also reports that diabetic patients frequently suffer from a combination of peripheral neuropathy and peripheral artery disease, which particularly affects their feet. It further states that it has been estimated that the lifetime risk for the development of foot ulcers in diabetic patients can be as high as 25 percent and that the risk of amputation is 10 to 20 times higher than in non-diabetic subjects.
 
The study was performed by Lawrence A. Lavery, D.P.M., M.P.H., a Professor in the Department of Plastic Surgery at UT Southwestern Medical Center. His clinic and research interests involve diabetic foot complications, infections and wound healing, and he participated in the conception, design, implementation and authorship of the Journal of Textile Science & Engineering study.  

CELLIANT technology is a patented process for adding micron-sized thermo-responsive mineral particles to fibers, in this case polyethylene terephthalate (PET) fibers. The resulting CELLIANT yarns were woven into stockings and gloves containing either 82% CELLIANT polyester, 13% nylon and 5% spandex or for the placebo, 82% polyester with no CELLIANT, 13% nylon and 5% spandex. CELLIANT products absorb body heat and re-emit the energy back to the body as infrared energy, which is non-invasive and increases temporary blood flow and cell oxygenation levels in the body.

The objective of the study was to “evaluate changes in transcutaneous oxygen (TcPO2) and peripheral blood flow (laser Doppler, LD) in the hands and feet of diabetic patients with vascular impairment when CELLIANT gloves and stockings are worn.” While there was not a statistically significant result across all subjects, the study did show that some patients wearing CELLIANT stockings for 60 minutes had an increase of as much as 20% in tissue oxygenation and 30% in localized blood flow. According to the study’s conclusion, “the trends that were observed in favor of CELLIANT stockings suggest that a larger well-designed clinical trial should be undertaken and may provide evidence of clinical efficacy in treatment of the diabetic foot.”
 
The study also notes that “There have been no documented or observed side effects of wearing CELLIANT stockings, and they are relatively inexpensive compared to conventional pharmaceutical interventions.”

Hologenix has embarked on a more comprehensive trial, “Study to Evaluate CELLIANT Diabetic Medical Socks to Increase Tissue Oxygenation and Incidence of Complete Wound Closure in Diabetic Foot Wounds” – NCT04709419, which focuses on the impact of CELLIANT technology to potentially improve tissue oxygenation and wound healing outcomes.
 
“We are excited to explore whether future studies of infrared, with its most common biological effects of increased localized blood flow and cellular oxygenation, could result in a breakthrough in diabetic patients with vascular impairment,” said Seth Casden, Hologenix Co-founder and CEO. “We see a huge potential opportunity with this research for helping to fulfill our core mission of improving people’s health and well-being by potentially reducing the impact of diabetes, and we are actively seeking partners to expand our research efforts.”

SABIC will present its portfolio of PURECARES™ and TRUCIRCLE™ materials for the healthcare and hygiene market at INDEX™23 from April 18 to 21 in Geneva, Switzerland, under the theme of ‘Collaborating for sustainability and innovative solutions’.

At INDEX, SABIC will highlight a joint project with two market leaders, using certified circular polymers from the TRUCIRCLE portfolio in recyclable films for feminine hygiene, baby care and disposable medical applications. In all of these cases from diapers to surgical drapes and medical gowns, the sustainable materials can serve as direct drop-in alternatives with no compromise in production efficiency and product performance.

Further examples on display at the company’s booth will feature TRUCIRCLE solutions for facemasks, including an N95 design that localizes the value chain with SABIC® PURECARES PP spunbond and meltblown polymers in Saudi Arabia. SABIC provides complete solutions for facemask production as part of its localization strategy and has been a key enabler of the Saudi Made initiative. Also shown will be a closed-loop facemask developed in collaboration with industrial and research partners in Europe.

The company’s PURECARES polyolefin products are based on technologies free of both tris (nonylphenyl) phosphite (TNPP) and phthalates. Consumer comfort is achieved by using SABIC polypropylene (PP) and polyethylene (PE) polymers for bi-component fibers to answer multiple needs for soft and loft handfeel nonwovens, enabling easy lamination to other building blocks on medical nonwovens or absorbent hygiene applications.

In addition, SABIC produces TRUCIRCLE certified circular polymers for its PURECARES PP and PE portfolio with feedstock based on advanced recycling of mixed and used plastic that would otherwise typically not be suitable for mechanical recycling processes. These more sustainable solutions can be adopted in downstream processes as direct drop-in alternatives to incumbent materials with no compromise in production efficiency, purity and product performance.

On the sidelines of the Intertextile Shanghai fair, the Swedish textile-to-textile recycling innovator Renewcell and the leading Chinese viscose manufacturer Tangshan Sanyou announced the next step in their partnership to make fashion circular that stretches back to 2018.

The two companies’ new shared ambition is to offer manufacturers and brands Circulose® viscose fibers made from 100% recycled textiles in commercial quantities starting in 2024. The collaboration has been facilitated by Ekman Group, Renewcell’s exclusive global trading partner.

“I am very happy to announce this acceleration of our long-standing partnership with Tangshan Sanyou. They were the first commercial producer of Circulose®-based fibers in the world, and the first to commit to sourcing significant volumes from us. Now, they aim to also be the first to commercialize 100% Circulose® content fibers” said Patrik Lundström, CEO of Renewcell, adding "I applaud Tangshan Sanyou’s vision and support to scaling next gen raw materials like Circulose®.”

The announcement, which follows the recent start of deliveries of 100% recycled textile Circulose® pulp from Renewcell’s newly opened Renewcell 1 recycling plant, is the result of successful validation of Circulose®’s quality in production at Tangshan Sanyou’s commercial-scale manufacturing lines. Tangshan Sanyou would strive to finish the mission of producing commercial volumes of 50% Circulose® content fibers during 2023 and work towards achieving the delivery of 100% Circulose® content branded viscose fibers to selected fashion brands and manufacturers starting in 2024. The two companies will cooperate to market the fibers globally using Renewcell’s Circulose® ingredient brand name.

Mr. Zhang Dongbin, Executive Vice General Manager of Tangshan Sanyou Chemical Fiber, says, "Through the collaboration with Renewcell, we have achieved to use Circulose® made from recycled cotton in the production of our viscose fibers, which is great beneficial to improving resource utilization efficiency and lowering carbon footprint of the industry. It has brought a huge impact in the sustainable fashion industry. We will continue putting efforts in forming good interaction between consumers, brands and enterprises, convey the concept of circular sustainable fashion, promote the greening of textile industry, and ensure a more sustainable way to ensure the sustainable development of the textile industry. Protecting the global ecological environment by applying sustainable solutions is our common goal."

When the nonwoven industry meets at the leading trade fair INDEX in Geneva from 18 to 21 April, Mahlo GmbH + Co KG awaits trade visitors from all over the world to inform them about the right measurement technology enabling more efficient and high-quality production of nonwovens.

With a wide range of sensors, different measuring techniques and the corresponding measuring bridges, practically all tasks regarding the control of basis weight, moisture, thickness, fibre content, and air permeability can be solved in a cost-efficient and practical way.

As an example, Wulbeck mentions spunlace products. They mainly consist of fibres such as cotton, PE, PET or rayon. They absorb light in the near-infrared range. Water and all other materials have different spectral ranges and can thus be distinguished. The near-infrared sensor Infrascope NIR determines the moisture content and the basis weight of different materials by attenuating the light in certain wavelengths. Due to its very high spectral resolution, the sensor can distinguish between components with very similar but not identical IR absorption and achieves high measurement accuracy. "Up to 0.05 g/m2 of the respective coating weight is possible," says Wulbeck.

"We want to support manufacturers in optimising their production processes and thus also the end product," says Matthias Wulbeck, Mahlo product manager for QCS. Because, like many other industries, the nonwoven sector is struggling with challenges such as rising prices for energy and raw materials, long delivery times and uncertain supply chains. In order to continue to produce economically and on time, it is therefore necessary to save resources and avoid faulty production as well as unnecessary process times. "Our Qualiscan QMS measurement and control system helps to do just that."

The Premium Group have announced a repositioning of its flagship trade shows PREMIUM and SEEK.
     
The first change is the relocation of the event to its iconic location: the Station Berlin. The venue is a historic place, which has served as the home of the Premium Group trade shows in the past.
The event will also be shortened to two days instead of three days, with new opening hours from 10 am - 10 pm including networking events and parties. This is a reflection of the changing times and the need to provide more efficient business and networking opportunities for exhibitors and visitors, maximizing their time and investment.

PREMIUM and SEEK will be held together and focus on curated trends, lifestyle brands, and sophisticated fashion collections. The CONSCIOUS CLUB remains one of Europe's biggest platforms for sustainability in fashion showcasing promosing brands and developments. Brands, retailers, and visitors can expect a more surprising, and streamlined event. The booth concept will be limited to a maximum size of 100 sqm, with a new sustainable booth system.

The summer editions of PREMIUM, SEEK, and the CONSCIOUS CLUB will take place on the 11th & 12th of July 2023 in Berlin.

The Global Organic Textile Standard is pleased to announce the release of GOTS Version 7.0, which features an expanded scope of environmental and social criteria while maintaining a standard that is practicable for industrial production and appropriate for a wide range of products. During the regular year-long revision process, international stakeholders with expertise in organic production, textile processing, textile chemistry, human rights and social criteria, as well as representatives from industry, NGOs and civil society organisations, contributed to the new Version 7.0 through multiple consultation rounds. Final decisions were made by the multistakeholder GOTS Standard Revision Committee.

GOTS Version 7.0 provides a comprehensive solution for companies who want to produce organic textiles ensuring compliance with environmental and human rights due diligence along the entire supply chain, from field to finished product. With full traceability from origin to destination, GOTS certification provides an efficient means of verifying genuine sustainability efforts. GOTS 7.0 introduces new requirements to conduct risk-based due diligence of Certified Entities’ own operations and their supply chains based on the UN Guiding Principles for Business and Human Rights and the OECD guidelines. The Social Criteria section was substantially revised to include a broader human rights-focused approach. GOTS 7.0 now allows recycled organic fibres as additional materials. Key requirements, such as certified organic fibre content, a general ban on toxic and harmful chemicals such as PFAS, conventional cotton and virgin polyester restrictions, and social compliance management, are maintained in GOTS Version 7.0.

Some of the changes in Version 7.0 include:

• GOTS and the Manual for the Implementation of GOTS were restructured, and sections were grouped to reflect the standard’s scope.
• New due diligence criteria ensures that Certified Entities address their actual and potential negative impacts on human rights and the environment.
• GOTS Environmental Criteria, Product Stewardship, and Environmental Health and Safety (EHS) requirements will also apply to the subcontractors of chemical formulators.
• Criteria for the incoming organic material have been made stricter.
• Quinoline is included among the prohibited substances and some existing restrictions have been made tighter such as of “aniline, free”, residue limit is decreased to 20 mg/kg from 100 mk/kg.
• GOTS 7.0 reduces the permissible quantity of recycled synthetic (polymer) fibres in its certified products, taking into account the disadvantages associated with recycled synthetics, such as microplastics and poor quality.
• In the pursuit of circularity, GOTS will allow use of recycled GOTS Goods waste as an additional fibre in its certified products.
• GOTS Human Rights and Social Criteria will now require Certified Entities to respect internationally recognised human rights protocols, including the International Bill of Human Rights and other international human rights treaties.
• Criteria concerning Discrimination, Violence and Harassment were revised to make them more comprehensive and include the International Labour Organisation (ILO) Violence and Harassment Convention (C190).
• Certified Entities are now required to develop a plan to cover the living wage gap.
• GOTS Occupational Health and Safety criteria were revised to consider best international practices and recommendations from the ILO.

For more information, see the following documents:

• GOTS Version 7.0
• Change Log GOTS 7.0
• Change Log Manual for the Implementation of GOTS 7.0
• Guideline for the new structure of GOTS 7.0

Carbios announces its membership of the Ellen MacArthur Foundation’s Network. Carbios shares the Foundation’s commitment to accelerate the transition to a circular economy, especially in the areas of plastics and fashion. By joining the Ellen MacArthur Foundation’s Network, Carbios will connect with other leaders within the Foundation’s leading circular economy network of businesses, policymakers, academia, innovators, and thought leaders worldwide.

Carbios fully adheres to Ellen MacArthur Foundation’s vision for a circular economy for plastic. Its biorecycling and biodegradation technologies already match the actions defined by the Foundation:

• Eliminate all problematic and unnecessary plastic items
• Innovate to ensure that the plastics we do need are reusable, recyclable, or compostable
• Circulate all the plastic items we use to keep them in the economy and out of the environment

Through ambitious collaborative projects, plastics and fashion are two topic areas for the Foundation and are also at the heart of Carbios’ activities. Providing actionable solutions to support brands’ ambitious commitments for sustainable packaging and textile industries, Carbios has founded two consortiums: one in the packaging industry established with L’Oréal in 2019, which has since been joined by Nestlé Waters, PepsiCo and Suntory Beverage & Food Europe; another created in 2022 in the textile industry with apparel and fashion brands On, Patagonia, PUMA, PVH Corp. and Salomon. Together, the consortium members develop solutions promoting the recyclability and circularity of their products.

Joining the Ellen MacArthur Foundation’s Network takes Carbios’ circular economy actions one step further. Carbios recently underscored its commitment to circularity and environmental responsibilities by publishing its first Sustainability Report at the end of 2022^[1]. In 2019, Carbios’ biorecycling and biodegradable solutions were among the first innovations to be labelled “Efficient Solution” by the Solar Impulse Foundation^[2].

^[1] Cf. press release dated 15 December 2022
^[2] The Solar Impulse Foundation has identified over a thousand clean and profitable solutions that are economically viable and can be implemented on a large scale.

Sammlung, Aufbereitung und Wiedereinsatz von Sekundärrohstoffen funktionieren bei klassischen Rohstoffen wie Glas oder Stahl bereits sehr gut. Für einige Wertstoffströme müssen Recyclingtechnologien noch weiterer entwickelt werden, um eine ressourceneffiziente Kreislaufwirtschaft zu etablieren. Dazu gehören beispielsweise Kunststoffe oder Batterien. Die neue Informationssammlung des VDI Zentrums Ressourceneffizienz (VDI ZRE) „Innovative Recyclingtechnologien“ informiert u.a. über Abläufe, neue Entwicklungen in der Entsorgungs- bzw. Recyclingbranche und Förderprogramme für ausgewählte Rohstoffe.
 
Höhere Recyclingquoten sind notwendig, um mehr Wertstoffe im Kreislauf zu führen. Jedoch stellen heterogene Stoffströme, zersplitterte Lieferketten, aufwändige gesetzliche Vorgaben und weitere Faktoren eine effiziente Kreislaufführung vor Herausforderungen. Lösungen gibt es bereits. Einige innovative Recyclingtechnologien werden schon erfolgreich in der Praxis umgesetzt. Weitere sind im Forschungsstadium oder als Pilotprojekte in der Erprobung. Hier setzt die Online-Sammlung „Innovative Recyclingtechnologien“ des VDI ZRE an.

Mit innovativen Technologien Ressourcen sparen
In der Online-Sammlung werden für die Kategorien Kunststoffe, Batterien und Akkumulatoren, Elektrogeräte sowie PV-Module zunächst das Recyclingpotenzial und die Besonderheiten für eine Kreislaufführung aufgeführt. Ein Blick auf den Stand der Technik zeigt aktuelle Möglichkeiten und die Herausforderungen beim Recycling.

Die Vorstellung innovativer Recyclingtechnologien beleuchtet, wie Kreislaufwirtschaft für diese Stoffe ermöglicht, bzw. ressourceneffizient gestaltet werden kann. Viele konstruktive Ansätze sind jedoch noch im Forschungs- und Pilotstadium. Der Handlungsbedarf ist weiterhin hoch. Hier unterstützen weiterführende Informationsangebote z.B. bei der Suche z.B. Fördermöglichkeiten und Netzwerken.

Erstellt wurde die Online-Sammlung „Innovative Recyclingtechnologien“ im Auftrag des Bundesumweltministeriums. Sie wird regelmäßig erweitert. Abrufbar ist sie unter: www.ressource-deutschland.de/themen/kreislaufwirtschaft/innovative-recyclingtechnologien/

• Longer parking times for greater efficiency

Since 2018, Oerlikon Barmag has been offering the market’s only currently available concept for high-end home textile applications using the POY and DTY process. The spinning concept with the WINGS HD winding unit in conjunction with an automatic eAFK Big V Multispindle texturing machine manufactures high-titer yarns with maximum machine efficiency.
 
“We have correspondingly modified WINGS HD in order to once again better align the increased requirements of these special yarns to the spinning process and make everyday production even simpler for our customers”, comments Stephan Faulstich, POY Process Technology Manager. The parking times are extremely short when winding high titers. We have increased the parking times by up to three times in the case of the new WINGS HD models. To this end, the parking time for a 300d/384f yarn, for example, has been increased from a standard 6.5 min. to 15.7 min. – and, in the case of a 400d/192f yarn, from 4.3 min. to 10.3 min. This makes the doffing process more even, hence increasing doffing reliability.

At the same time, the draw unit now has a more flexible design, meaning that two-godet operation is also possible in the case of products with low overall titers. This has a positive impact on the winding unit’s energy consumption.

12 POY packages of up to 600d/576f (final) are produced in the spinning process using WINGS HD 1800. This is made possible as a result of an additional godet, which ensures that the high yarn tensions developing in the process are reduced to the yarn tensions common in the case of the winding process to date. At the same time, the newly-developed suction unit with the accompanying yarn cut-ting device (yarn collecting system) ensures – both during string-up and in the event of a yarn break – reliable handling of the yarn with an overall titer of 7,200 den (final).

Whereas DTY yarns up to 1,200 den and with up to 784 filaments have in the past, as standard, been plied from four POY 300d/192f bobbins using DTY machines, high titers can also be manufactured directly using the WINGS HD take-up machine. Combining the WINGS HD and the eAFK Big V allows all available winding positions to be utilized during texturing.