From the Sector

• Partnership offers customers access to full-scale garment design, manufacturing and packaging

Ascend Performance Materials has announced a commercial agreement with The S Group, a globally recognized provider of apparel design, development and manufacturing. The alliance will focus on commercialization of Acteev Protect™ antimicrobial yarns, fibers and fabrics, offering customers full-scale supply chain service from garment design to delivery.

The agreement pairs Ascend's world-class manufacturing operations with The S Group’s track record of success in the wholesale and direct-to-consumer apparel industry. “Our customers will now benefit from a revolutionary antimicrobial material combined with end-to-end support to guide a product from ideation to actualization,” said Lu Zhang, vice president of Acteev.

The S Group offers complete supply chain management for apparel brands, including product development, manufacturing, logistics, quality assurance, packaging and order fulfillment. The company lists some of the world’s most recognized brands among its partners, including Lululemon, New Balance and Mack Weldon. Athleisure, performance, scrubs, and seamless products such as intimates, leggings, active wear, socks and gaiters will be available.

Gary Peck, CEO of The S Group, says his team is excited about the commercial potential of Acteev, especially given the new reality of global health concerns. “Garment design has primarily focused on functionality, sustainability and comfort,” said Peck. “The past year has made us all aware that safety can be a valuable feature of fabrics as well, and Acteev checks all those boxes.”

Acteev is Ascend’s patent-pending technology that embeds zinc ions in a polymer to create fibers with long-lasting antimicrobial properties. The result is a fabric that destroys odor-causing bacteria and fungi. Acteev technology is available in a wide range of textiles featuring the flexibility, softness and durability of nylon 6,6.

Recent testing on knit fabric completed at the University of Cambridge has demonstrated that Acteev technology deactivates the virus that causes COVID-19, SARS-CoV-2, with 99.9% efficacy on contact1. Ascend is working with the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration and other governmental agencies to obtain the appropriate regulatory clearances to make specific claims regarding the technology’s antiviral properties.

With the PFAFF 4520, engineers and technicians from PFAFF have designed a full-automatic production line (CE compliant) for processing multi-layer disposable masks, which meets the requirements of "German engineering" in a unique way. The product combines 150 years of expertise in joining textile materials and a concentrated know-how of the PFAFF INDUSTRIAL and KSL brands in the areas of process control, automation and robotics.

The PFAFF 4520 is an investment in a robust and sophisticated production line (MADE IN GERMANY) with an exceptionally reliable working process. In times of Covid-19 it is so important to rely on the right equipment for the mask production and avoid costly readjustments or an unnecessary second investment!

Key facts of the unit:

-    Size of the mask: 175 x 95 mm
-    Output:  3,500 – 4,000 masks per hour
-    1-, 2- or 3 ply processing  (Non-woven/filtration fabric)
-    SPS (PLC) control of the entire mask system
-    Exceedingly quiet working process of the whole unit
-    Ultrasonic welding components from German manufacturers
-    Protective housing for occupational safety of the operator
-    Packing station + printing station for personalized masks (on request)

The machine package also includes important features in the pre- and after sales:

PFAFF technicians ensure the adjustment of the desired customer material (non-woven or similar filter material) and the number of layers (1-, 2-, 3-ply) to the machine and make a "Ready to production" installation of the whole unit at the customer.  A fast service response time in after-sales (by involvement of the PFAFF sales- and service partner on site) ensures a maximum production output.

• Trust the vibes, energy doesn’t lie!

Advanced design and sustainability, innovation, aesthetics and quality, made of “ethical” laces and tights of very high quality standards and a careful look at fashion. Iluna Group, strengthened by this heritage, with a smart approach, carefully selected materials, know-how on processes and particular attention to the ecosystem, is a leader in its sector

With the FW 21-22 collection, Iluna Group focuses on design excellence aimed at perfection driven by this particular historical moment, in which preferring quality over quantity has become necessary: offering ever higher standards of quality is combined with the choice of reducing minimum waste in a way of working that becomes more thoughtful, studied, focused and less hectic.

The range of sustainable products expands by adding to the GRS certified Green Label, the BIOLINE, made with raw materials such as the precious ROICA™ V550 premium stretch fiber which belongs to ROICA Eco-Smart ™ family produced by Asahi Kasei able to combine elasticity and comfort and other benefits in terms of circular economy related to the health of materials, as demonstrated by the Gold Level Material Health Certificate by the Cradle to Cradle Product Innovation Institute, and by the world's first biodegradable polyamide 6.6 yarn AMNI SOUL ECO®, fibers that degrade completely in the environment under anaerobic conditions.

The exceptional natural dyes proposed are made with vegetable dyes extracted from various plants, with a color chart that now has 14 shades, all with solidity within the OEKO TEX® Standard 100 and all GOTS certified. No chemical product is used for the dyes, including the softening finish, for which an equally natural product is used.

All the products of the Iluna Group collections can be made in a recycled or organic variant.

Iluna Group participates to Milano Unica and digitally at all sector fairs, a new way of communicating that together with the use of social media - accompanied by the launch last year of the official website and e-commerce with all the collections and the ilunamasks.com site dedicated to the sale of the exclusive Iluna masks - it can be transformed from a necessity to a great resource and an opportunity to enhance a 360° sustainable attitude. Iluna, even before the pandemic, has always considered the sustainable aspect a priority in its work and now, in the light of this new landscape, the many years of experience gained benefits the company by pushing it to place itself more and more as a precursor of sustainable innovation.

The constant commitment to responsible solutions makes Iluna Group the only lace manufacturer to use - since 2017 - transformed stretch in the entire range of its elastic laces. Iluna Group excellence is based 100% on responsible innovation, guaranteed by the most important certifications. The creation of smart lace, strictly Made in Italy, is also Global Recycled Standard (GRS) certified. Today Iluna is a reference point for international markets and boasts products with OEKO-TEX® Standard 100 certification.

Masks yes, but with comfort, safety and also style: Cifra, Iluna Group, Rosti and Sitip launch masks with a fashion touch with the premium stretch fiber ROICA™
 
Big companies are updating their productions with high-performance and high technical characteristics masks, result of their historical experience and thanks to an exceptional partner in common: the premium stretch fiber ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei. And the solidarity race continues to donate them to hospitals and to the Red Cross
 
Forced to keep most of the face covered and often for a long time during the day, solutions that are above all performing and comfortable become increasingly necessary.

And solutions that are also a manifestation of our personality, which remains hidden and entrusted to the mere expression of the eyes. Walking on the streets we sometimes even don’t even recognize each other, since we are so hidden; and the desire to minimize the situation often takes over, together with that desire to make us recognizable, to possess and express an identity anyway. For fans of escaping homologation (now more than ever mandatory and for this reason even more difficult) “rescue comes” - and this is the case to say it - from illuminated companies who have thought about creative solutions for those with masks has to do all day, at home, at work, during sports and in leisure time. To feel more comfortable, there are many proposals: more “street style” for sports addicted and young people - inside and outside -, more elegant and sophisticated for women.

Textiles companies have joined the fight against Covid-19 engaging a strong and decisive personal and productive battle, which has seen many of them transform and convert their production units for the production of masks and gowns intended for medical personnel and the community.

Some of the most established excellences of the textile sector as Cifra, Iluna Group, Rosti and Sitip have made use of the precious collaboration of ROICA™, the premium stretch fiber by Asahi Kasei. ROICA™ is the innovative and smart premium ingredient chosen by these companies to guarantee even more comfort, thanks to an exceptional top-level component that gives elasticity for perfect adherence to the skin. Each of the companies then declined its production according to its specificity. And this is their important contribution.

Cifra presents the eco-sustainable version of the mask, the ECO-MASK™, which combines the high performance of Cifra knitting technology with the sustainability of the materials used. The 100% regenerated yarns create a 100% sustainable mask with 83% ECONYL and 17% ROICA™ V550 elastomer, the stretch fiber certified Cradle to Cradle Gold Health Level which allows excellent and lasting printability, as well as advantages regarding the circular economy as it does not release harmful substances into the test environment according to the Hohenstein Environmental Compatibility certification.

Iluna Group, European leader in the production of lace, has recently donated 400 protective “smart”  made with ROICA™ EF, the world first GRS - Global Recycled Standard – certified elastomer and which uses 58% of pre-consumer recycled content, mixed with Q-NOVA® by Fulgar. Multi-use, washable, bacteriostatic, breathable and water-repellent prevention masks gave to San Gerardo Hospital in Monza to answer to the Call to action launched on March 19th by the green journalist Diana De Marsanich, with the responsible and innovative materials expert Giusy Bettoni of C.L.A.S.S. Eco Hub, the fashion designer Marina Spadafora of Fashion Revolution Italia and the entrepreneur Simona Roveda of LifeGate. Iluna Group also announces the launch of the website dedicated to the direct sale of the different kind of masks all made with three layers, antibacterial and anti-drip treatment and washable up to 10 times. Iluna Group has also created the “smart” masks made with ROICA™ EF, the world first GRS - Global Recycled Standard – certified elastomer and which uses 58% of pre-consumer recycled content, mixed with Q-NOVA® by Fulgar.

In addition to the “smart” masks, available for women, men and children, Iluna Group has created two special versions of Lace Masks, covered with refined lace. One embroidered on a cotton base and one with soft microfiber.

Rosti, historic knitwear factory based in Brembate specialized in the design and production of cycling clothing with the best technical fabrics and the most advanced technologies, has put its experience at the service of the production of protective masks washable up to 20 times, made with Sitip fabric and with the anti-drop treatment Ecoacquazero®. Fascinating and protective like a second skin, the masks are sold in a pack of 10 pieces with captivating, colorful, geometric and original graphics, designed for every personality.

Rosti masks contain the premium stretch fiber ROICA™ Resistance, a family of premium stretch yarn with particular performances of resistance and durability.

• The PREMIUM GROUP in Berlin is cancelling its PREMIUM and SEEK trade shows for this summer season, as well as the FASHIONTECH conference – in collaboration with the leading global digital B2B marketplace, JOOR, there is still a guaranteed trading option.

Due to the coronavirus crisis, in April the dates of the PREMIUM GROUP’s events were provisionally moved from the original schedule of 31 June-2 July 2020 to 28 -30 July. Now, the Federal and State governments have decided to cancel large-scale events with over 1,000 visitors until 31 August 2020.
     
A statement from Anita Tillmann, Managing Partner of the PREMIUM GROUP: 

“We greatly regret the decision of course, especially after the success of our January events. The ban on large-scale events has been around for some time and has been publicly discussed. It hurts us to do it, but we are also conscious of our responsibility. If cancelling our trade shows, conferences and parties contributes to the safety of our customers and visitors, then we have to take this step.
 
We are in close contact with all our brands and partners and have spent the last four weeks discussing possible approaches, concepts and new focal topics for the summer. The bottom line is that digitalisation is clearly the focus. It’s all about using the time over the next few months sensibly. The timing for brands and retailers is now right – all market participants are aware of the necessity of this.

We have been working closely with JOOR, the leading B2B marketplace globally, for around a year, after successfully integrating our own digital platform, Veee.com. JOOR has digitalised the entire procurement process and ensures a seamless, functioning wholesale process on an international scale – both for brands and retailers.
 
We shall shortly be offering webinars on this and can offer our customers an optimal, digital ordering solution so as to use this time of the pandemic efficiently. We are very happy with this option and our year-long investment in the topic of digitalisation. This has come good for us now.
 
Our trade show formats have been about more than just ordering for a long time now. They are about encounters, emotion, inspiration, communication and, finally, the fashion community getting together. Although lots can take place digitally nowadays, it doesn't replace physically meeting up in person. We have seen this more than ever in the present situation.
 
We are going to work on new concepts for 2021, and we will liaise with the key stakeholders in Berlin and with all others too to ensure we hit the ground running again. We’re taking on the challenge and will come back to the industry when we have news.”

Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles – Autumn Edition will return from 24 – 26 August 2020 at the National Exhibition and Convention Center (Shanghai), organised by Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd; the Sub-Council of Textile Industry, CCPIT; and the China Home Textile Association (CHTA). Stepping into its 26th edition, the trade fair will provide exhibitors the perfect opportunity to introduce new products and expand their distribution networks, as well as serving as a source of information and inspiration for professionals in every aspect of the industry.
 
Celebrating its 25th anniversary last August, the Autumn Edition of Intertextile attracted 1,147 exhibitors from 27 countries & regions, as well as 35,390 trade buyers from 117 countries & regions (2018: 104), reflecting the increasing internationalism of Messe Frankfurt’s textile fairs in China, and the growing opportunities for international suppliers to meet a wide range of buyers in Shanghai. The trade fair’s capacity to attract large and diverse crowds has reinforced its status as the leading business platform for the home textile industry in the Asia Pacific region.
 
In the next edition, a large collection of quality Chinese companies, as well as premier overseas brands will once again present the entire spectrum of home and contract textile products including:

• Textile editors
• Whole Home Products
• Windows & Upholstery
• Bedding, Bath, Kitchen & Table
• Carpets & Rugs
• Sun-Protection
• Wallcovering
• Digital Print & Technics
• Fibers, Yarns & Chemicals
• Textile Designs

Opportunities abound in China’s home textiles market
 
“The upcoming Autumn Edition of Intertextile is set to offer suppliers and buyers the best platform to capture new business opportunities, especially as we continue to focus on bringing together more key players from the textiles, interiors, architecture and hospitality sectors in China and internationally,” Ms Wendy Wen, Senior General Manager of Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd said.
 
“Over the years, Intertextile has been evolving from a traditional trade fair to an immersive and interactive experience that inspires and engages attendees. Today, the fair is more than a business platform; it also delivers state-of-the-art home trends, valuable networking opportunities, as well as innovative and strategic solutions for brand development through a series of fringe programme events,” Ms Wen further explained.
 
As one of the selected exhibitors featured in the Talks & Tours series at the 2019 fair, Mr Thomas Luys, Sales Manager of LIBECO-LAGAE: “We had quite a diverse range of visitors, including an increase in e-commerce buyers, but also more traditional upholstery fabrics buyers. Our booth was also part of the Talks & Tours, so it was important to tell our story to a diverse range of visitors on this tour.”
 
 
To find out more about this fair, please visit: www.intertextilehome.com.
For more information about Messe Frankfurt textile fairs worldwide, please visit: http://texpertise-network.messefrankfurt.com.

Berlin - 200 exhibitors, around 1,000 visitors and over 20 speakers from Germany and abroad – the ATSG textile fair premiered in Berlin from 11 to 13 September 2019 brought together exhibitors, speakers and trade visitors from all over the world. Jason Prescott, CEO of JP Communications, said he was satisfied with the event at the Estrel Conference Center: "The first step has been taken, now we will establish the ATSG as an important event of the Berlin fashion and textile world".

The ATSG was the first fair of its kind in Germany. "There are many fashion trade fairs for sale from wholesale to retail. Berlin has so far lacked an event for companies of all sizes, including micro-brands and small fashion labels," continues Jason Prescott. The exhibited product categories included fabrics, technical clothing, mixed and knitted fabrics, home textiles, leather, natural and synthetic fibres, readymade goods and fashion accessories. Visitors to major European fashion brands as well as small, independent brands from the Berlin fashion scene were able to take a close look at raw materials and finished garments and discuss their ideas personally with the exhibitors. In parallel, China Textile Brand Show (Berlin), sponsored by Chinese Ministry of Commerce (MOFCOM), made its debut bringing in more than 150 superb Chinese manufacturers with their best collections for Germany and EU market.

Opening Ceremony, Lectures and Fashion Show

The ATSG was opened by Chinese government representatives and international association delegates. More than 20 lectures on the three days provided the latest impulses for thought and discussion. In their lectures and panel discussions, speakers from all over the world presented current positions on topics such as "All China? Or is there more to it?", "Application examples of artificial intelligence in the fashion industry", "Optimal logistics concepts for Europe", or "The importance of sustainability in the European fashion industry".

Wilson Zhu, COO at Li & Fung, one of the world's largest trading houses based in Hong Kong, explained in his keynote speech his view on the digitization of global supply chains: "From raw materials in the textile factory to consumer tracking: In retail, every step of the value chain is determined by digitization.

Companies need to be close to consumers and their supply chains must enable a seamless flow of data and information from start to finish". Customers and their requirements have also changed: "They want to know about origin, recyclability and production standards and use their information to adjust their purchasing behavior accordingly.” Other speakers included Jeff Streader of the brand investment platform Go Global and Salman Khokhar of Brand Lab Kollective Moda. The fashion show on the second day featured creations by local Berlin labels (Damur, Danny Reinke, Aline Celi, Yoona Tech) as well as Asian brands exhibiting at ATSG.

Successful kick-off

Exhibition organiser Jason Prescott draws a positive balance: "Looking back on the three days, I am very proud of what went well. Which has been confirmed for us: We're on an exciting path, have taken our first steps here in Berlin and will continue to develop the exhibition." The creators of ATSG 2019 are taking ideas for the year 2020 with them, especially from the many intensive discussions with exhibitors and visitors: "The ATSG has offered visitors and exhibitors a unique opportunity to identify new growth strategies, look around for market partners, learn from each other and establish networks. We are very pleased that the concept was used here in Berlin," concludes Chase Vance, Director of JP Communications.

Anita Tillmann on the new season, new topics and a new generation.

“We’re feeling a special vibe in Berlin at the moment. The new generation is cool, fresh, engaged. Despite the fact that we, in our 40s, 50s and up, wear the same sneakers and almost the same look as our children, it's a long time since we topped the cool list. We need the young crowd, these stars of tomorrow, their style, their ideas and their unconventional and open ways of thinking. Everyone should come to Berlin to meet them, listen to them, or at least watch them. If you only look to the past you won't create a good future.”

CRAFTING STORIES.
“Berlin feels reckless, flexible, sometimes wonderfully aimless, unconstrained and unpredictable, which gives my creativity a huge boost. I am fascinated by always meeting people from all over the world who have chosen to make Berlin their base so that they can be free and creative, because Berlin offers the space to do that – whether in a studio, or at WeWork or Berghain.”

CHANGING STORIES.
“Only 9 per cent of the 9.1 billion tonnes of waste plastic that accumulates around the world was recycled and 12 per cent was incinerated. We give talks daily on the theme of avoiding plastic and we are working with the City of Berlin on concepts for a plastic-free Fashion Week. Only together can we shake things up.”

TELLING STORIES.
“Emotionalisation begins at the trade show stand rather than in-store. If the sparks don't fly at the trade show it will be tricky to tell the brand story or implement the presentation of the brands across the sales areas. Firstly, the aim is to use key looks and storytelling to capture buyers’ attention and make statements. We are working together with the brands on showcasing differentiating factors and genuinely presenting something new. Secondly, we recommend bringing young sales staff along to Berlin as well, to internalise this dynamic as well as the brand stories; and to then make these stories come alive for end consumers across the sales areas.”

• Patented technology with bluesign®, ECO PASSPORT, and Skin Friendly certification

Polyester sport and functional textiles treated with Sanitized® Odoractiv 10 are protected against “permastink”. Already a holder of the Swiss Technology Award, the Sanitized® Odoractiv 10 odor-management technology can now carry the bluesign® sustainability label, the Skin Friendly certification from the Hohenstein Institute and the ECO PASSPORT by OEKO-TEX® label. SANITIZED AG has been a bluesign® system partner for over 10 years.

An unwelcome odor can quickly develop in polyester sport and functional clothing, even if freshly washed. This is “permastink”. It’s a challenge to the textile industry as it generally reduces the attractiveness and market opportunities of sport and functional clothing made from polyester.

The patented, non-biocidal Sanitized® Odoractiv 10 technology provides specific solutions and sales arguments for the end products. It works in two ways: The odor-causing bacteria can’t stick to the textile surface and are washed out completely in a normal wash cycle. This is due to the anti-adhesive “coating” applied in the padding process. This effect has been proven in a test procedure developed in cooperation with EMPA (Swiss Federal Laboratories for Material Science and Technology). Secondly, the treatment has an adsorbing effect. The odors are “trapped” and repeatedly expelled during a normal wash cycle.

No binder, no nano
Another characteristic: The treatment with Sanitized® Odoractiv 10 doesn’t apply an additional binder system. As with all of our products, SANITZED AG uses no nano technology. The safety and tolerability have been confirmed by the Skin Friendly certification from the Hohenstein Institute and ECO PASSPORT by OEKO-TEX® label. These have now been joined by the bluesign® accreditation.

Archroma, a global leader in color and specialty chemicals, recently entered in a partnership with Carlin, the world’s very first trend forecasting agency founded in 1947, aiming to promote the use of Archroma’s exclusive color inspiration tools to fashion designers and stylists in France.

Under the terms of the new partnership, Carlin will use the ‘Color Atlas by Archroma®’ color references in the Carlin’s 16 publications per year, including the InMouv trend books. Carlin will also use the Color Atlas during its color workshops, and Carlin and Archroma will organize regular conferences and events for fashion brands in major French cities, including Paris.
The partnership agreement also appoints Carlin as Archroma’s sales agent for its color management products in France, including the Color Atlas by Archroma® color library and related tools. Archroma’s color management services will continue to be sold through the existing channels.

The Color Atlas by Archroma® uses complementary tools to enhance creative possibilities for designers and brands. It incorporates the six-volume ‘Color Atlas’ Library, with over 4,300 colors on cotton poplin; the two-volume ‘Color Atlas Compact’ for improved portability; and the ‘Color Atlas Online’ which enables you to take an image with your smartphone and identify the closest Color Atlas shades.
“Just like designers, brands, retailers, manufacturers and Carlin, we are passionate about color trends,” explains Chris Hipps, Global Director of Archroma Color Management Services. “We redefined the concept of a color library for the textile industry with our Color Atlas, an essential and inspirational reference that gives creatives options that they had never dreamed of. With our new partnership with Carlin we’ll be able to share our Color Atlas and our passion for color with a new audience.”

“Carlin is at the forefront of trend forecasting,” explains Edouard Keller, Head of International Sales, Carlin. “And that includes the use of color. Archroma offers a suite of services and tools that are both practical and instantly available for our clients; this is what makes their solution so attractive to us. Our partnership with Archroma will empower us to share the advanced Color Atlas and associated tools with creatives throughout France, helping them to unlock their creativity with color.”