From the Sector

Join this webinar session with Kornit CEO Ronen Samuel and CMO Omer Kulka that will take place on Monday, 23rd March 2020 at 2:00 PM CET. To learn more about what the Softener is, how it works, and why it presents a great many opportunities for making the fashion industry more eco-friendly, more reactive to emerging demands, and more conducive to efficient and versatile business models.

We'll be presenting you with:

• our new NeoPigment™ Robusto Softener solution for Presto, the company’s system for digital, pigment-based roll-to-roll direct-to-fabric decoration. Kornit’s pigment-based print process can help companies achieve their sustainability goals. Traditional rotary reactive ink six-color printers use 60-80 liters of water per linear meter, and digital reactive ink for fashion designs use 14-40 liters; Kornit’s award-winning* NeoPigment™ Robusto ink set, which is both GOTS and ECO PASSPORT by OEKO-TEX® certified, is waterless.
• the Presto - Kornit’s Presto solution eliminates the need for pre- and post-treatment of fabric and allows for high-quality printing on an extraordinarily broad variety of fabric types and applications.

Please register for our webinar Here 

NCTO Supports Administration’s Proposals on Economic Stimulus in Coronavirus Response; Rejects Importer Attempts to Remove China 301 Tariffs on Finished Products

The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO), representing the full spectrum U.S. textiles from fiber through finished sewn products, issued a statement today welcoming the Trump administration’s proposals on an economic stimulus package to gird the economy against the impact of the coronavirus outbreak. But the organization urged officials to reject any attempts by importers to remove China 301 tariffs on finished products as part of any relief package.

“The president has outlined the need for a broad economic stimulus package that would include various tax incentives to help impacted industries and workers. We support the administration’s efforts to bolster the economy as a response to the coronavirus outbreak, while opposing add-ons to any stimulus package designed to exploit the crisis,” said NCTO President and CEO Kim Glas.

As part of a Phase One deal with China, the administration reduced duties on finished apparel and textile products implemented on Sept.1 from 15 percent to 7.5 percent.

Finished apparel, home furnishings and other made-up textile goods equate to 93.5 percent of U.S. imports from China in the sector; while fiber, yarn, and fabric imports from China only represent 6.5 percent, according to government data.

A close eye on quality with the Eye Compact II

Eltex of Sweden AB, a member of TMAS, the Swedish textile machinery association, reports solid success with its Eye Compact II yarn monitoring system for carpet tufting machines, since its launch at ITMA 2019 in Barcelona last June.

The sensor units of the Eye Compact II,Brian Hicks, Eltex CEO explains, have been successfully miniaturised to approximately a third of the size of those with the established Compact system, allowing them to be mounted on the very latest high speed tufting machines that are graphics driven, with limited space at the puller rollers.

Early stage prevention
Unlike the sensor systems that are employed at later positions on tufting machines – in order to detect faults in the formed fabric – Eye Compact II technology is about prevention at an earlier stage, through the detection of missing yarns.

Critically, the sensors need to be installed after the last puller roller and before the tufting needles, because otherwise the roller could still be feeding yarns that will not been successfully taken by the needles. This is only possible with the extremely slim Eye Compact II units, which can also be positioned either above or below the rollers.

Guarantee
Another benefit is that the sensors can be arranged more closely together, with each of them monitoring 16 yarn positions, and their robustness ensures that once fitted, there is little the technicians or operators need to do.

Automatic
The Eye Compact II system easily learns pattern changes and displays the number of yarns involved to the operator for confirmation, and different parameters for different yarns groups can also even be set if required. With its research and development work primarily carried out at its headquarters in Osby, Sweden, and North American sales and service operated from its subsidiary in South Carolina, the manufacturing plant of Eltex has been located at Templemore in Ireland since 1976, providing significant advantages in terms of high flexibility and logistical services to customers on both sides of the Atlantic.

The conference on sustainability in production, trade and consumption will take a second round: On March 24, 2020, the Weser-Kurier’s conference SUSTAIN will take place in the run-up to the International Cotton Conference once more. The Bremen Cotton Exchange is again cooperating partner of this event. The theme “City and Change – the Future of the Textile Retail Trade” is on focus this year.

Shirt and trpousers or blouse and skirt – clothing is an instrument of expression, a social must and a major factor of consumption. Internet and debates on climate change have changed the indicators. On the one hand, textile online trade is booming, while local stores have come under pressure to an increasing degree and cities are on the search for new ideas. On the other hand, consumers increasingly ask for products considering aspects of fairness and ecology during production. Manufacturers and stores have to react. These subjects are on focus during the Sustain that takes place on Tuesday, March 24, 2020 in Bremen in the Glocke.

Exciting keynote speakers and panel guest from fashion, science and the textile industry
Sustain will feature outstanding speakers from the economy, politics and society discussing for instance the possibilities of new techniques in stationary retail trade, the compatibility of fair production with business interests of manufacturers as well as the question whether consumers are willing to pay the additional costs of sustainability. These are themes that influence the vitality of the cities just as the purchase decisions of the consumers.

Prof. Dr Niko Paech, Professor of Economics, Wolfgang Krogmann, Advisory Director Primark, Urs-Stefan Kinting, Managing Partner of the Zero Group, Model & TV Presenter Alena Gerber, Rolf Heimann, CEO Hessnatur Stiftung, Kai Falk, Managing Director Communication of the German retail association Handelsverband Deutschland and many others confirmed their participation.

Riri and Coeurdor announce that they are creating the largest metal accessories group dedicated to the high-end luxury brands. The combination of the two companies will result in a unique value proposition, offering the full range of metal trims. This will allow luxury brands to simplify their supply-chain and benefit from unique innovation capabilities, including new technology like 3D printing and stainless steel. They will also rely on a production network that spans from France, Italy, Switzerland to Portugal, offering maximum flexibility and security of supply adapted to the fashion market requirements.

Founded in 1951 and headquartered in Maîche (France), Coeurdor is a manufacturer of metal accessories for the luxury industry. The company is specialized in surface finishings and manufacture of metal products for Luxury leather goods, with production facilities in France and Portugal. The company is well-known for the quality of its products, its innovation capabilities and strong customer relationships.

Founded in 1936 and headquartered in Mendrisio (Switzerland), Riri is a well-known brand, producing zippers and buttons, through Riri and Cobrax brands, mostly for the high-end luxury market. Riri is the privileged choice of many brands in light of high quality of the creations released season after season, ever-ending effort in terms of innovation, personalization of details and high service levels. The company has a world commercial presence, with commercial offices in Paris, New York City, Los Angeles, Hong Kong and Shanghai and four manufacturing sites across Switzerland and Italy.

Robert Jeambrun, Chairman of Coeurdor said: “We are very excited to open this new chapter of our history together with Riri. We believe the two organizations share the same values, including a focus on innovation and dedication to high service levels for our customers. Crossing our path with Riri will enable us to continue our growth story and increase our financial means, becoming the supplier of choice of high-end luxury brands.”

Renato Usoni, CEO of Riri Group said: “We are welcoming the Coeurdor family. The alliance of the two groups will create a new leader in the market with a unique business model and industrial means capable of supplying all metal pieces needed by our clients, from zippers to buttons and metal trims, all at once. The combined offering will be highly synergetic and will allow our clients to better industrialize their supply chains and benefit from unique innovation capabilities.”

The Trevira CS joint booth at Heimtextil 2020 was once again a success.

Trevira looks back on a successful trade fair appearance at Heimtexil 2020. The concept of a joint booth together with customers along with the presentation of product innovations and a special exhibition dedicated to the contract sector has once again proved its worth. Trevira hosted 31 co-exhibitors thus increasing the number of participants again compared to last year. Members of the entire textile value chain were present at the Trevira stand: from the fibre production and yarn manufacture, to the colouring, weaving and warp and weft knitting stages, to the textile editor.

Klaus Holz, CEO Trevira GmbH: „We are pleased about the very positive feedback we got on our joint booth at Heimtextil 2020 from our customers and the visitors to our stand. It shows that our concept is successful and that the booth works well as a market place for Trevira CS.”

Product novelties were presented in an Innovation Park. Under the headline “Recycling at Trevira” the fibre producer presented its sustainable product range and diversified approaches to recycling: flame retardant fibres are produced from residual materials, which are reprocessed in an agglomeration plant. The recyclates are then deployed in the spinning facility to make new, high-quality products consisting of 100 % pre-consumer recycled material. Recycled, flame retardant filaments are produced from PET bottles and have a recycled content of 50 %. Standard polyester spun-dyed filament yarns are also available in a recycled version. Produced from PET bottles these yarns have a recycled content of 100 %.

In order to produce flame retardant fabrics which are also high-performing  in outdoor applications, Trevira now offers six more colours in addition to the existing colour range of 24 UV-stable, spun-dyed filament yarns. Trevira had been awarded the „Brandenburger Innovationspreis Kunststoffe und Chemie 2019“ for this innovation.

Cationic dyeable fibres and filament yarns enhance the Trevira portfolio of flame retardant specialties. They are used to create melange designs in fabrics, which still represents a strong trend in the home textile sector.

To meet the ever more complex demands of the market for more flexibility in design and additional functions as well as for sustainable products Trevira has introduced an enhanced Trevira CS branding concept, consisting of the three brands Trevira CS, Trevira CS flex und Trevira CS eco. Assigned according to product features, all of them stand for tested safety.

In the AZL Workgroup "High-Performance SMC", a project was developed in cooperation with M-Base, the IKV and the AZL partner network for the efficient and standardized provision of engineering data for SMC. Within the scope of the project, companies can participate in the definition of the required characteristic material data, the guidelines for the production of test specimens and the test specifications.
Sheet Moulding Compounds (SMC) are used in various application areas such as vehicles, electronics, construction and infrastructure.

Driven by the requirements to reduce the production costs of lightweight components, a new generation of SMC components with high mechanical properties is of highest relevance. SMC offers enormous potential to realize structural components with good lightweight characteristics at significantly reduced costs compared to conventional continuous fiber-reinforced components.
In order to further establish SMC in broad industrial applications companies participating within the AZL Workgroup recognized the value of a data bank for data harmonization of SMC to provide the possibility of easily finding the right material with its characteristics for the needed specific requirements.

“The segment of SMC is with 250,000 tons production per year the largest composites market in Europe. I am very pleased that we start now with the project of data harmonization along the complete value chain. The goal is to have a similar data base as already established by Campus® for thermoplastics and thermoplastic composites. Only with a reliable set data we can convince the engineering experts to use SMC in a larger variety of applications,” says Dr. Michael Effing, Chairman of the Board of AVK and Composites Germany.

As of right now a databank for engineered thermoplastic materials (by Campus®) already exists and is offering an immense value.
Under the lead of M-Base, Dr. CEO Erwin Baur who has successfully established the CAMPUS database, the AZL, IKV and companies along the value chain of long fibre reinforced SMC initiated to build a CAMPUS-compatible data structure and material characterization methodology during the High-Performance SMC Workgroup Meetings.

DOMO Chemicals, a global leading player in engineering nylon materials towards sustainable solutions, today announced its transition plan for the function of Chief Executive Officer. The Board of Directors of DOMO has appointed Yves Bonte to succeed current CEO Alex Segers during February 2020. Mr. Segers has held the CEO position at DOMO since the Company started its chemical activities in 1994 and will continue to play an important role in the transformation of Solvay’s European Performance Polyamide and DOMO into one company. Closing of the acquisition of Solvay’s European performance Polyamide Business by DOMO is expected to take place on January 31st.

Alex Segers commented, “I feel privileged to have been given the opportunity to work with the DOMO team over the past twenty-six years, which has really been an incredible journey. We are now entering the next level for the company by integrating very soon the European Performance Polyamides Business from Solvay. In Yves we have found the ideal person to pass the baton to. We look forward to a seamless transition.”

Gregory De Clerck, Managing Director of Domo Investment Group and Member of the Board of DOMO Chemicals commented, “I would personally like to thank Alex for his leadership in the successful growth and transformation of DOMO from an upstream nylon 6 specialist into a full integrated engineering materials company developing innovative and sustainable solutions in the Polyamide Industry. We are excited to welcome Yves Bonte to DOMO as the new CEO and Chairman of DOMO Chemicals. We believe he is the ideal person to lead the next chapter of the Company’s growth and transformation process. Alex will continue to significantly contribute to the success of new DOMO.”

Yves Bonte joins DOMO from Yara, the leading fertilizer company and a provider of environmental solutions where he held the role of Executive Vice President Industrial recently named New Business since January 2010, and was responsible for a business generating appr. 20% of Yara’s total revenue of 12.9 billion USD. Prior to Yara, he held a variety of business leadership, commercial and operations roles at Lyondell Basel and Exxon Chemicals. Since 2018 Yves is as Board Member of DOMO.

“I have a true passion for innovation and sustainability, and I am thrilled to join DOMO as its next CEO,” Yves Bonte commented. “The Company has established itself as a leader in sustainable polyamide based on its strong technology-driven product portfolio with a solid foundation to further build upon. I believe DOMO is uniquely positioned to support its customers’ manufacturing processes in a cost effective and sustainable manner. The recently announced long-term strategy and planned investment will position DOMO to reach new levels of growth and success.”

The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) released the following statement on the Phase One Deal on 301 tariffs signed today by the U.S. and China.

“While we are still studying the details of the deal signed today, we applaud the administration for finally pressing China for a more rational and equal trade relationship,” said NCTO President and CEO Kim Glas. “Our industry has been severely damaged by China’s predatory practices over the past 30 years and we are anxious to see a new era of sound trade principles and balanced trade.

At the same time, we question the last-in, first-out approach to the tariff reductions.  In our sector, this means that the penalty 301 tariffs on finished apparel and sewn products--the areas where tariffs have the most potential to effect reforms in China while bolstering the Western Hemisphere supply chain-- are cut in half while U.S. manufacturers continue to face full tariffs on certain inputs and equipment not available domestically.”

• Investment of approx. USD 1.3 bn in 500,000 t dissolving wood pulp plant
• Key milestone to structurally strengthen cost leadership position
• Significant step towards carbon neutrality

The Lenzing Group and Duratex announced that they will build a 500,000 t dissolving wood pulp plant in the State of Minas Gerais, near Sao Paulo (Brazil). The start-up is planned for the first half of 2022. In the joint venture, Lenzing holds a 51 percent, Duratex a 49 percent stake. The expected industrial CAPEX will be approx. USD 1.3 bn. The project is financed through long-term debt. The corresponding financing contracts are expected to be concluded at the end of the first quarter of 2020.

Key milestone to structurally strengthen cost leadership position
The new dissolving wood pulp plant strengthens the Lenzing Group’s backward integration and cost position as well as its specialty fiber growth in line with its sCore TEN corporate strategy. The single-line dissolving wood pulp plant with an annual nameplate capacity of 500,000 tons will be the largest and most competitive production facility of its kind. Dissolving wood pulp is a key raw material required for manufacturing Lenzing’s biobased fibers. The joint venture will supply the entire volume of dissolving wood pulp to the Lenzing Group.

“Wood-based cellulosic fibers offer an important contribution to enhance sustainability in the textile industry. In line with its corporate strategy sCore TEN, Lenzing is committed to drive organic growth in this market. With this investment, we will become more competitive, act more independently and subsequently strengthen our market position. The trust and support of the main shareholders of Lenzing and Duratex were of great importance for this key project”, states Stefan Doboczky, CEO of the Lenzing Group.

Strong focus on sustainability
In planning the new production facility, particular importance was given to sustainability aspects. The joint venture secured FSC®-certified plantations1 covering an area of over 44,000 hectares to provide the necessary biomass. These plantations operate completely in accordance with the guidelines and high standards of the Lenzing Group for sourcing wood and pulp. The plant will operate among the highest productive and energy-efficient in the world and will feed the 40 percent of excess bioelectricity generated on site as “green energy” into the public grid. With this project, Lenzing sets a milestone in its strategy to carbon neutrality.