From the Sector

The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO), representing the full spectrum of U.S. textiles from fiber though finished sewn products, provides initial comments on the Phase One deal on 301 tariffs reached between the United States and China today.

“We look forward to reviewing the details of the agreement as it becomes available, including the intellectual property enforcement mechanisms agreed to by both countries.  We have long supported the administration’s efforts to re-balance our trade relationship with China that has significantly eroded our U.S. manufacturing base for decades,” Kim Glas, President and CEO of the National Council of Textile Organizations said.

The proposed announcement means that 301 duties on textile inputs will remain at a 25 percent tariff. Meanwhile, penalty duties on finished apparel and textile products implemented on Sept. 1st will be reduced from 15 percent to 7.5 percent, and proposed duties on finished products set to be put in place on Dec. 15th will no longer go into effect.

“NCTO has strongly supported applying tariffs on finished products as key negotiating leverage since textile and apparel production is a key pillar of the Chinese manufacturing economy.  Finished apparel, home furnishings and other made-up textile goods equate to 93.5 percent of U.S imports from China in our sector, while fiber, yarn and fabric imports from China only represents 6.5 percent, according to government data.  Today’s announcement reduces tariffs on finished products at the same time it keeps tariffs in place on key inputs that aren’t made in the U.S. such as certain dyes, chemicals, and textile machinery. We believe a wiser approach would be to maintain penalty duties on finished Chinese products while reducing 301 duties on key inputs that are used by U.S. manufacturers. Doing so will maintain maximum leverage on China to reach a more comprehensive and enforceable intellectual property agreement, while reducing input costs for U.S. manufacturers.  As domestic textile companies fight to compete with China and their illegal trade practices, it is important that U.S. manufacturers should be the first to see penalty duties removed on inputs not made in the United States.

As we review this Phase One agreement, it is important that the administration strike the proper balance of maintaining its leverage with China by keeping duties on finished product until a final strong and enforceable deal with China is completed.  We look forward to reviewing and analyzing the deal in more detail.”

Myant Inc. and Osmotex AG have agreed to enter into a joint venture for the commercialization of Osmotex’s HYDRO_BOT active membrane technology across various textile-based applications. The integration of HYDRO_BOT with Myant’s existing portfolio of textile-based sensing and actuating capabilities opens up new possibilities across a wide range of domains including sweat/moisture management and thermal regulation.

HYDRO_BOT technology is capable of moving 200 liters of fluid across a square meter of textile every hour via an electroosmotic process, providing a practically limitless ability to manage moisture in textile applications. Applied in conjunction with Myant’s existing capability to deliver heat via textile and to achieve effective passive moisture wicking via novel knitted structures, the combination of technologies is poised to dramatically improve the ability to regulate body temperature in applications such as personal protective equipment for workers in heavy industry, protective gear for workers in hot desert-like climates, performance wear like snow suits or skiing apparel in cold climates, footwear, motorcycling apparel, and more. In addition to apparel, significant market opportunities exist in the moisture management as applied to the automotive industry and in the healthcare industry.

“The creation of this joint venture between Myant and Osmotex reinforces our mission to develop textiles as bidirectional interfaces to the human body capable of optimizing health and performance across all spheres of life,” said Tony Chahine, founder and CEO of Myant. “Our team is excited to begin integrating HYDRO_BOT into our textiles and bringing this transformative technology to market.”

“We are excited to be working together with Myant to realize the full potential of the HYDRO_BOT technology,” said Joacim Holter, Managing Director and Chairman of the Board for Osmotex AG. “Myant’s ability to integrate our technology and to produce at scale all under one roof made them an ideal partner to help make our vision a reality.”

• Acquisition drives market growth
• Additional sales channel for BASF customers and partners
• Access to new materials and technologies for customers of BASF and Sculpteo

To continue to expand its position as a leading service provider in the additive manufacturing sector, BASF New Business GmbH has formally agreed to acquire the online 3D printing service provider Sculpteo. The agreement was signed on November 14, 2019 and is expected to become effective in the next few weeks pending regulatory approval by the relevant authorities. The acquisition of the French 3D printing specialist based in Paris and San Francisco will enable BASF 3D Printing Solutions GmbH, a wholly-owned subsidiary of BASF New Business GmbH, to market and establish new industrial 3D printing materials more quickly. Sculpteo’s management team fully supports the acquisition and will remain in place to provide customers and partners with this expanded service spectrum.

For around a decade already, Sculpteo has operated an online platform with integrated production for the manufacturing of prototypes, individual objects, and serial production components with a range of different additive manufacturing technologies. Customers in various industrial sectors around the world use the Sculpteo service to produce new components rapidly and reliably.

BASF will develop the existing Sculpteo 3D printing platform further into a global network. For customers and partners, BASF 3D Printing Solutions will thus be able to offer an additional channel for marketing their services and expanding their own customer bases.

"Through the acquisition of Sculpteo, we can provide customers and partners with even faster access to our innovative 3D printing solutions. In addition, our customers will benefit from an extended range of services”, explains Dr. Dietmar Bender, Managing Director BASF 3D Printing Solutions. “Together with Sculpteo, we are pursuing our goal of establishing additive manufacturing as a proven technology for industrial mass production", says Bender.

Combining the strengths of both companies will provide Sculpteo's existing customers with access to a more extensive portfolio of 3D printing materials. "We are excited to join the BASF team and thus benefit from BASF’s outstanding R&D to provide our customers with innovative solutions”, says Clément Moreau, CEO and Co-Founder of Sculpteo. Moreau will stay with Sculpteo as CEO.

Beyond this, the Sculpteo Design Studio and BASF’s technical experts will collaborate to be able to support customers in their 3D printing projects from the early planning phase right through to the final printed part. This will enable BASF to offer its customers end-to-end industrial 3D printing solutions.

The 11th Bangladesh Denim Expo attracted 99 exhibitors from 11 countries and once again proved itself the most significant show of its kind in Bangladesh. In total there were 5,692 visitors – a remarkable achievement.

The great and good of this diverse industry once again descended on the expo which illustrated, once again, that the denim sector of Bangladesh is in rude health.

In this edition exhibitors displayed fabrics, garments, threads, machinery, finishing equipment and accessories, positioning the show as a true representation of Bangladesh’s denim industry - the second largest denim exporter to the EU and third largest to the United States. The expo also saw other participating countries including china, Japan, Italy, India, Singapore, Brazil, Spain, Pakistan, Turkey and Germany.

Responsibility was the theme of the 11th Bangladesh Denim Expo. Founder and CEO Bangladesh Denim Expo Mostafiz Uddin said: “It is the duty of all stakeholders in the denim industry to acknowledge their responsibility and to analyse the business practices for the benefit of all.”

Special features: over 30 top clients at a joint stand and a special exhibition highlighting trendsetting textile concepts for the contract market

Trevira, which manufactures high-quality, flame retardant polyester fibres, will be repeating its successful joint booth concept at the upcoming Heimtextil fair, due to take place from 7-10 January 2020 in Frankfurt. Together with 32 of its major customers, Trevira will be located on a stand of over 2000 msq in Hall 4.2.

The participants of the Trevira CS joint stand will cover the entire textile value chain: from the fibre production and yarn manufacture, to the colouring, weaving and warp and weft knitting stages, to the textile editor. Trevira’s customers will present their latest Trevira CS products for home and contract textiles at individual stands, demonstrating their contribution to the value chain. This year, Trevira welcomes a new partner to its Heimtextil stand, design and engineering specialist ima-tuve.

“We’re excited that our joint fair booth has proved to be so popular and that we are increasing the number of Trevira CS customers joining us for Heimtextil year on year. This means that we can once again look forward to displaying the extensive range of possibilities and applications available in Trevira CS,” said Trevira CEO Klaus Holz.

Trevira’s joint booth, which will be situated in Hall 4.2, immediately next to the Messe Frankfurt exhibition “Interior. Architecture. Hospitality”, will also feature a special showcase, “Textile Future by Trevira CS” especially for the contract market. To curate this special display, Trevira is proud to have secured a collaborative partnership with renowned Berlin design company studio aisslinger. The studio is known for its outstanding work in experimental and product design, innovative materials and architectural concepts.  As a designer, studio founder Werner Aisslinger is particularly interested in how the newest technologies and unusual materials can be integrated into product design. Besides a focus on furniture, his most recent projects include interior design concepts for hotels and workspaces.

As of October 1st, 2019, the Netherlands-based global market leading manufacturer of advanced automation equipment and solutions for composites, Airborne, strengthens its activities particularly in German speaking countries, the so-called D-A-CH region, comprising Germany, Austria and Switzerland with Dr. Michael Effing from AMAC. The Dutch company is looking for specialised partnerships to develop and deepen its international business opportunities in the aerospace and automotive markets.

Airborne’s focus is on high-end composite components, at high production rates at radically low conversion costs. Airborne is building up a suite of automated solutions for the manufacturing of composites with the aim to radically reduce costs and touch labour, minimize the footprint and use of material, and improve the time to market for their clients. The company offers i.a. solutions in automated honeycomb potting, automated kitting and automated lamination of thermosets and thermoplastics. In order to develop new business opportunities in the D-A-CH region for the end-markets aerospace and automotive, Airborne is cooperating with AMAC to accelerate the process of locating suitable partnerships.

Dr. Effing, CEO of AMAC GmbH confirms: "As a first step for the establishment of Airborne on the German market, we just signed their membership at AZL in Aachen which will help to connect with over 80 companies and latest research developments. In the framework of theirstrategy to strengthen the supply to the aircraft sector, Airborne will also exhibit at the Aircraft Interiors Expo in Hamburg from March 31st to April 2nd 2020.”

Direct-to-garment system for polyester “is ideal for handling a wide variety of products in small quantities, which should help us attract new customers” says Image Magic CEO

Kornit Digital (Nasdaq: KRNT), announced that Tokyo-based Image Magic has installed two Kornit Avalanche Poly Pro systems, expanding its longstanding digital direct-to-garment capabilities to imprint polyester and poly-blend fabrics. The move supplements Image Magic’s continuous development of internal efficiencies, and increases capacity for an operation that has observed 40% year-over-year growth. The brand serves a mix of corporate clients, including some of Japan’s leading apparel brands, and general consumers via a predominantly internet-based sales model.

Using the eco-friendly NeoPigment™ Olympia ink set, Kornit Avalanche Poly Pro was developed to extend digital design complexity, color gamut, and durability to polyesters, which have grown in popularity as a result of sportswear and “athleisure” trends.

The Board of Directors of Autoneum Holding Ltd has appointed Matthias Holzammer, the former, long-term Head of Business Group Europe, as CEO with immediate effect. He is taking over from Martin Hirzel, who will be leaving the Company in agreement with the Board of Directors. Since the existing problems in North America are proving more challenging than expected, the Group's operating result in the second semester of 2019 will not improve, contrary to previous forecasts.

Matthias Holzammer has already demonstrated his operational expertise as the Company’s Head of Business Group Europe, which he successfully restructured from 2012 on and transformed into a highly profitable Business Group. Due to the severe operational and commercial issues in North America, the turnaround and improvement of results will take more time than expected. Matthias Holzammer will devote himself to this task with the highest priority, in order to return the Business Group and the Group back to profitability as quickly as possible. "In view of the current challenges in North America and the volatile global market environment, Matthias Holzammer is the ideal choice to lead the Company as CEO with his industry experience, knowledge of Autoneum and track record in restructuring”, said Hans-Peter Schwald, Chairman of the Board of Directors of Autoneum Holding Ltd.

Berlin - 200 exhibitors, around 1,000 visitors and over 20 speakers from Germany and abroad – the ATSG textile fair premiered in Berlin from 11 to 13 September 2019 brought together exhibitors, speakers and trade visitors from all over the world. Jason Prescott, CEO of JP Communications, said he was satisfied with the event at the Estrel Conference Center: "The first step has been taken, now we will establish the ATSG as an important event of the Berlin fashion and textile world".

The ATSG was the first fair of its kind in Germany. "There are many fashion trade fairs for sale from wholesale to retail. Berlin has so far lacked an event for companies of all sizes, including micro-brands and small fashion labels," continues Jason Prescott. The exhibited product categories included fabrics, technical clothing, mixed and knitted fabrics, home textiles, leather, natural and synthetic fibres, readymade goods and fashion accessories. Visitors to major European fashion brands as well as small, independent brands from the Berlin fashion scene were able to take a close look at raw materials and finished garments and discuss their ideas personally with the exhibitors. In parallel, China Textile Brand Show (Berlin), sponsored by Chinese Ministry of Commerce (MOFCOM), made its debut bringing in more than 150 superb Chinese manufacturers with their best collections for Germany and EU market.

Opening Ceremony, Lectures and Fashion Show

The ATSG was opened by Chinese government representatives and international association delegates. More than 20 lectures on the three days provided the latest impulses for thought and discussion. In their lectures and panel discussions, speakers from all over the world presented current positions on topics such as "All China? Or is there more to it?", "Application examples of artificial intelligence in the fashion industry", "Optimal logistics concepts for Europe", or "The importance of sustainability in the European fashion industry".

Wilson Zhu, COO at Li & Fung, one of the world's largest trading houses based in Hong Kong, explained in his keynote speech his view on the digitization of global supply chains: "From raw materials in the textile factory to consumer tracking: In retail, every step of the value chain is determined by digitization.

Companies need to be close to consumers and their supply chains must enable a seamless flow of data and information from start to finish". Customers and their requirements have also changed: "They want to know about origin, recyclability and production standards and use their information to adjust their purchasing behavior accordingly.” Other speakers included Jeff Streader of the brand investment platform Go Global and Salman Khokhar of Brand Lab Kollective Moda. The fashion show on the second day featured creations by local Berlin labels (Damur, Danny Reinke, Aline Celi, Yoona Tech) as well as Asian brands exhibiting at ATSG.

Successful kick-off

Exhibition organiser Jason Prescott draws a positive balance: "Looking back on the three days, I am very proud of what went well. Which has been confirmed for us: We're on an exciting path, have taken our first steps here in Berlin and will continue to develop the exhibition." The creators of ATSG 2019 are taking ideas for the year 2020 with them, especially from the many intensive discussions with exhibitors and visitors: "The ATSG has offered visitors and exhibitors a unique opportunity to identify new growth strategies, look around for market partners, learn from each other and establish networks. We are very pleased that the concept was used here in Berlin," concludes Chase Vance, Director of JP Communications.

Artisan craft, experience and high eco-technological specialization: the great tradition of fabrics for shirts which styles the future.

Search for quality, the ability to interpret elegance and a product inspired by tradition, though always trendy: these are the distinctive traits which define the vocation of Canclini 1925, a point of reference worldwide for shirt fabric manufacturing. This expertise is implemented through dynamic creativity and 100% Made in Italy artisan  craft. These are the foundations which make the history and capability of Canclini 1925 unique, as standard bearer for everlasting style.

All this results from an authentic family tradition which, for three generations, has been the driving force of the company, shaping each collection. This passion is at the service of tireless search in terms of style and technology which underlies the whole Canclini 1925 innovative approach. The goal is to offer, through its fabrics, an inimitable experience, “creating wellbeing” and emotion through touch alone, respecting the environment and humans.

Founded in 1925, Canclini has always been a company able to combine extraordinary creativity and product care, established as a silk factory in the Como region. This tradition was renewed in the 1960s with the shift to the cotton sector, aiming more and more at customer service, developing a partnership and trust relation. Working with Canclini 1925 means reaching into the tradition of a family which has always been passionate about its work, dynamic, creative and focused on continuous innovation.

These are distinctive and qualifying elements in the Canclini 1925 approach. An approach which, in line with the research and development pathway on which the company has always invested substantial resources, also involves considerable attention the topic of environmental and social accountability. This commitment is confirmed by numerous and prestigious certifications in the company portfolio, starting from the careful selection of raw materials to its social commitment. More specifically, Canclini 1925 has been awarded the GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard), SUPIMA COTTON (the Pima “Gossypium Barbadense” cotton, classified as Extra-long Staple) certifications, following the Standard 100 by OECO-TEX®, BCI (Better Cotton Initiative) and GRS (Global Recycle Standard). A comprehensive range of tools which, combined with its in-house know-how and expertise capital, enhances the portfolio of Canclini 1925 branded innovations.

This accountability approach also encompasses the social area with the association “Un sorriso in più” (“One extra smile”). Founded and managed by the company, it is a non-profit organisation engaged in projects which include assistance in nursing homes to elderly persons without family ties, as well as in the support to children living difficult and disadvantaged family situations, focusing its activity on “human life quality”. The uniqueness generated by this meeting between tradition and innovation is the driving force behind corporate research, as well as the truly distinctive reason for its style and technology development. The high-performance looms and technologies used make the company strong and flexible enough for contemporary market requirements. The trademark passion of the Canclini family completes the picture within which the company operates, true to an approach which is at the same time artisan and high-tech, a point of reference in Italy and worldwide.

Thanks to its substantial manufacturing capacity, Canclini today is present on all of the most influential shirt markets worldwide, and – with its new Blue 1925 line - also in the denim world. In this way the company has succeeded in positioning itself among major players in textile manufacturing, authentically Italian because of its farsighted  business vision, care for details and production flexibility. It is the approach which – over the years - has allowed the group to take over important enterprises in the sector, for example Hausmann-Moos and Profilo Tessile, Maglificio Mida and Grandi & Rubinelli.
According to Simone Canclini, CEO of Canclini 1925: “What characterises the Canclini 1925 spirit is first and foremost genuine passion driven by our inspiring principles: quality, style and service. These elements have allowed us to become and remain a point of reference worldwide, to rediscover the everyday – basic and exciting – emotion of choosing a special shirt”.