From the Sector

Flocus™ offers a range of kapok textile materials such as fibers, yarns, textiles and nonwovens, which provide the textile industry with a naturally sustainable and regenerative alternative which has not been available before.

Kapok is a natural fiber, traditionally used by local population for fillings but with no large scale applications until Flocus™ founding. Beside kapok several interesting properties, there were some limits that had been inhibiting the possibility to use it at a larger scale and build a supply chain on textile products based on it: kapok fibers are short stapled ones (2-4 cm length), very light and empty inside: for this reason they incorporate air and made the spinning attempts unsuccessful.

Flocus™ pioneers sustainable and regenerative textile solutions based on kapok fiber, and it is creating a responsible supply chain for kapok.

With one of the most advanced technologies in the market, FLOCUS™ can spin the highest kapok percentage, offer yarns in the thinnest counts with the possibility of low minimum order quantity per blend.

Flocus™ Kapok offers products which can reduce the presence of animal and synthetic products in the market, utilizing a completely natural alternative without abandoning functionality.

The Flocus™ team works in partnership with companies who want to investigate the use of the eco-responsible fibers and is testing the wide range of applications of Flocus™ kapok stuffing, yarns, fabrics, nonwovens for thermo and sound insulation, waddings, foam replacement, medical, automotive and technical uses and others.

Financial Year 2020

As a consequence of the COVID-19 pandemic, Rieter closed the 2020 financial year with sales of CHF 573.0 million, which corresponds to a decrease of 25% compared to the previous year (2019: CHF 760.0 million). Due to the low sales volume, a loss of CHF 84.4 million was recorded at the EBIT level while at the net profit level the loss was CHF 89.8 million. In view of the loss in the 2020 financial year, the Board of Directors proposes that shareholders waive the payment of a dividend for 2020.

Order intake of CHF 640.2 million in the 2020 financial year was 31% down on the previous year (2019: CHF 926.1 million). Following the significant slump in demand in the second quarter of 2020 (CHF 45.7 million), order intake recovered in the third quarter (CHF 174.4 million) and improved further in the fourth quarter (CHF 215.1 million).

At the end of 2020, the company had an order backlog of about CHF 560 million (December 31, 2019: about CHF 500 million).

Business Groups
Sales of the Business Group Machines & Systems amounted to CHF 295.8 million in 2020, which corresponds to a decrease of 24% compared to the previous year. Due to the low volume and taking into account the expenditure on the ongoing innovation program, the business group recorded a loss of CHF 72.4 million at the EBIT level. Order intake in the reporting year was CHF 363.9 million (-35% compared to the previous year).

The Business Group Components with sales of CHF 174.3 million (-24% compared to the previous year) achieved a profit of CHF 1.4 million at the EBIT level before restructuring charges. EBIT after restructuring charges was CHF -5.5 million. The order intake with CHF 169.1 million (-24% compared to the previous year) was just below sales.

The Business Group After Sales achieved sales of CHF 102.9 million (-27% compared to the previous year) and a positive EBIT of CHF 1.8 million. Order intake was CHF 107.2 million (-24% compared to the previous year). Over 60% of spinning mills were shut down in the second quarter of 2020, with a corresponding impact on the demand for spare parts.

Dividend
Due to the loss of CHF 89.8 million at the net profit level in the 2020 financial year, the Board of Directors proposes that shareholders waive the distribution of a dividend.

Outlook
Rieter expects the market recovery that began in the second half of 2020 to continue in 2021. The company expects an order intake in the first half of 2021 exceeding that of the previous half year (second half of 2020: CHF 389.5 million). Thanks to the improved capacity utilization, Rieter is planning short-time working in only a few areas in the first half of 2021. Nonetheless, as already announced, Rieter still anticipates that sales in the first half of 2021 will be below the break-even point. In connection with the high order backlog at the beginning of 2021, Rieter expects an operating profit for the full year 2021.

Order Intake Continued to Recover in the Fourth Quarter of 2020:

• Order intake increased to CHF 215.1 million in the fourth quarter of 2020 and reached a total of CHF 640.2 million in the 2020 financial year
• As expected, sales of CHF 573.0 million in the 2020 financial year were significantly down on the previous year
• EBIT margin of around -15% and net profit of around -16% of sales expected
• First half of 2021 still heavily impacted by the COVID-19 pandemic
• Change to the Group Executive Committee

Rieter posted a globally and broadly supported order intake of CHF 215.1 million in the fourth quarter of 2020. Thus, the recovery that began in the third quarter of 2020 after the slump in demand in the second quarter continued (order intake second quarter: CHF 45.7 million, third quarter: CHF 174.4 million). Overall, Rieter’s annual order intake for the 2020 financial year totaled CHF 640.2 million, which corresponds to a decrease of 31% compared to the previous year.

At the end of 2020, the company had an order backlog of about CHF 560 million (December 31, 2019: about CHF 500 million).

As expected, as a consequence of the economic effects of the COVID-19 pandemic, the Rieter Group closed the 2020 financial year with considerably lower sales than in the previous year. According to the first, as yet unaudited figures, total sales of CHF 573.0 million were achieved, which corresponds to a decrease of 25% compared to the previous year (2019: CHF 760.0 million).

Order Intake by Business Group
All three business groups were affected by the slump in demand in the second quarter of 2020 due to the COVID-19 pandemic. Despite the recovery in order intake in the third and fourth quarters of 2020, the weak second quarter was only partially offset.

The Business Group Machines & Systems was particularly hard hit by the effects of the pandemic, with a year-on-year decline of 35%. The Business Groups Components and After Sales each recorded a 24% reduction in order intake.*

Sales by Business Group
The exceptional market situation in 2020 gave rise to a significant decline in sales in all three business groups. Accordingly, reluctance to invest and deferred deliveries by customers caused sales in the Business Group Machines & Systems to decline by 24% compared to the previous year.

Due to COVID-19, a large number of spinning mills stopped production worldwide. This led to low demand for spare parts and wear parts, especially in the second and third quarters of 2020. Accordingly, compared to the previous year, sales in the Business Groups Components and After Sales fell by 24% and 27% respectively in the 2020 financial year.*

Sales by Region
With the exception of Turkey, all regions were affected by the low demand as a consequence of the COVID-19 pandemic.*

EBIT Margin and Net Profit
In the 2020 financial year, Rieter anticipates an EBIT margin of around -15% (2019: 11.2%) and net profit of around -16% of sales (2019: 6.9%). As of December 31, 2020, Rieter had liquid funds of exceeding CHF 280 million and unused credit lines in the mid three-digit million range.

First Half of 2021 Still Heavily Impacted by the COVID-19 Pandemic
Thanks to the improved capacity utilization, Rieter is planning short-time working in only a few areas in the first half of 2021. Nevertheless, Rieter expects sales in the first half of 2021 to be below the break-even point.*

Change to the Group Executive Committee
With effect from March 1, 2021, the Board of Directors of Rieter Holding Ltd. has appointed Roger Albrecht as Head of the Business Group Machines & Systems and a member of the Group Executive Committee.*

Annual General Meeting April 15, 2021
The 2021 Annual General Meeting of Rieter Holding Ltd. will take place in Winterthur on April 15, 2021.*

*See attached document for more information.

Polyester and its applications are omnipresent in our everyday lives. Whether as beverage bottles, film packaging, high-tech sports shirts or safety belts, polyester excels with its excellent mechanical properties and inexpensive production. However, the constantly rising demand requires responsible handling of global resources. For this reason, it is not only ‘virgin polyester’ generated from crude oil that is exclusively the raw material for manufacturing, so too is polyester recycled from post-production and post-consumer waste. Processing production waste also helps cut raw material, disposal and transport costs, hence increasing efficiency.

BB Engineering has developed an innovative solution for the recycling of post-production polyester fibre waste, called VacuFil. Decades of experience in the areas of extrusion, filtration and spinning systems have been bundled into a new, innovative core component – the vacuum filter. It unites gentle large-scale filtration and controlled intrinsic-viscosity build-up for consistently outstanding melt quality. The attached vacuum swiftly and reliably removes volatile contamination and ensures a controlled IV-increase. Comprising an inline viscosity measuring unit connected with the vacuum unit the IV can be controlled continuously and reliably. Hence, producers are able to generate that specific kind of recycled polyester they need for their application.

• License agreement concluded for promising technology
• Integration into the digital spinning suite ESSENTIAL
• Implementation of digital strategy further advanced

The Rieter Group concludes a license agreement with WW Systems on November 5, 2020 and will integrate the Brazilian company's promising product into its digital spinning suite ESSENTIAL. "OptCotton" from WW Systems offers the only software system worldwide that enables an even blend of cotton for the spinning process. With this cooperation, Rieter is taking an important step forward in implementing its digital strategy and offering its customers further added value in yarn production.

"OptCotton" eliminates variations in quality between cotton blends that are being prepared for the spinning process. In this way, standardized quality yarn can be produced efficiently in the spinning process. From the arrival of the bales in the warehouse to their use in the blowroom line, “OptCotton” manages the entire blending process with no need for categorization. This results in increased efficiency in storage and logistics as well as machine performance.

Integration into the digital spinning suite ESSENTIAL
By integrating this solution, Rieter strengthens its digital spinning suite ESSENTIAL. Access to bale-related fiber data and raw material information opens up new possibilities for controlling the spinning mill. In combination with the existing modules ESSENTIALbasic, ESSENTIALmonitor, ESSENTIALmaintain and ESSENTIALpredict, this optimizes the entire spinning process and raises digital intelligence to a new level.

• On October, 20th, 2020, the State Prize for Innovation was awarded to the Lenzing Group for their LENZING™ Web Technology.
• Lenzing thus received the highest award for particularly innovative achievements in Austria.

Lenzing – On Tuesday, October 20, 2020, the Lenzing Group was awarded the coveted “State Prize for Innovation”. Lenzing emerged as the winner with its project LENZING™ Web Technology and thus received the highest recognition for particularly innovative achievements in Austria. The novel process combines fiber and nonwovens production in only one step, setting new standards in terms of efficiency, circularity and ecological sustainability. Margarete Schramböck, Federal Minister for Digital and Economic Affairs, presented the award to Gert Kroner, Vice President Global Research & Development.

“This award is a great recognition of our work. Our goal is to grow continuously with sustainable innovations and to look beyond our fibers, to the needs of our customers and partners and to the needs of consumers worldwide. With the LENZING™ Web Technology we have created an exciting and promising solution for eco-friendly products in line with our corporate strategy sCore TEN and support consumers in their daily needs in a sustainable way”, says Stefan Doboczky, Chief Executive Officer of the Lenzing Group.

Biodegradable nonwovens for a clean environment

The pollution of the environment by plastics is one of the most urgent problems of our time. Every day, millions of hygiene products and wipes around the globe end up in garbage and sewage. Most of them consist of up to 80 percent polyester or other fossil, non-biodegradable materials and therefore pollute the environment. With the LENZING™ Web Technology, Lenzing has developed a patented technology to counter this problem: Sustainable and eco-friendly nonwovens are produced from the renewable raw material wood. These are not only plastic-free, they also score points for their particularly high environmental friendliness. “Thanks to a unique self-bonding mechanism, in which the filaments bond with each other during the spinning process, binders, which are found in many nonwovens, are no longer needed. As a result, the nonwovens produced with LENZING™ Web Technology are 100 percent biodegradable and do not pollute either humans or the environment”, says Gert Kroner, Vice President Global Research & Development of the Lenzing Group.

The Austrian State Prize for Innovation is awarded annually by the Federal Ministry for Digital and Economic Affairs to the most innovative Austrian company. In 2020, the competition took place for the 40th time.

During the Innovate Textile & Apparel (ITA) virtual textile machinery show which will run from October 15th-30th 2020, Monforts will be emphasising its leadership position in three key fields – advanced coating, denim finishing and fabric sanforizing.

With its multi-head capability, the latest Monforts texCoat coating system provides flexibility with an unprecedented range of options and a wide range of modules available.

Refinements
“Since we acquired the coating technology that our systems are based on we have made a lot of refinements and all of them are reflected in higher coating accuracy and the resulting quality of the treated fabrics,” says Monforts Head of Technical Textiles, Jürgen Hanel.
“Our systems have the shortest fabric path from the coating unit into the stenter and we have all variations of coating application systems too – and all of these options are available in wider widths, with the engineering and manufacturing from a single source here in Europe.”

CYD
Denim finishing is meanwhile a field in which Monforts has an undisputed lead and it has been working closely with its many partners in the key denim manufacturing countries of Bangladesh, Brazil, China, India, Mexico Pakistan and Turkey to develop advanced solutions. The latest of these is the CYD yarn dyeing system.
“CYD is based on the proven Econtrol® dyeing system for fabrics*,” explains Monforts Head of Denim Hans Wroblowski. “It integrates new functions and processes into the weaving preparatory processes – spinning, direct beaming, warping and assembly beaming, followed by sizing and dyeing – in order to increase quality, flexibility, economic viability and productivity. The CYD system has been developed in response to a very strong market demand.”

Pre-shrinking
Monforts has also recently delivered a significant number of its latest Monfortex sanforizing lines to customers around the world.
Sanforizing is vital to final fabric quality, pre-shrinking it by compressing prior to washing, to limit any residual or further shrinkage in a made-up finished garment to less than 1%, for perfect comfort and fit over an extended lifetime.

As with industry-leading Montex stenters, Monfortex lines benefit from the latest Qualitex 800 control system which allows all parameters to be easily automated via the 24-inch colour touchscreen, including production speed, control of all fabric feed devices, rotation spray or steaming cylinder options, the width of the stretching field and the rubber belt pressure. Up to 10,000 separate process parameter records can be generated and stored by the data manager.

*Econtrol® is a registered mark of DyStar Colours Distribution GmbH, Germany.

Mountains of waste, plastic-infested oceans, negative CO2 footprints – the need for more sustainable ways of living has never been more urgent. Consequently, it is logical that recycling solutions are becoming increasingly important within the textile industry. This was also tapped into at the first virtual Global Fiber Congress in Dornbirn with a session that focused specifically on the topic. In front of around 400 participants, Markus Reichwein, Head of Product Management at Oerlikon Barmag, also spoke about solutions currently on the market.

As one of only manufactureres, the Oerlikon Group’s Manmade Fibers segment offers the entire mechanical recycling chain –from preparing the recycled materials, producing the melt all the way through to the textured package. Here, the company utilizes the VacuFil solution supplied by its subsidiary Barmag Brückner Engineering (BBE) –which, in addition to mastering bottle-to-bottle and bottle-to-textile processes, is also able to process textile waste into chips. This permits the running of textile production operations very much in line with the zero-waste philosophy.

VacuFil ensures a stable process in the case of recycled quality yarns
The reliable removal of contaminants is vital for a stable and efficient spinning process and outstanding yarn quality. At the same time, stable operating conditions with minimal fluctuations are essential. The greatest challenge here is the differing qualities of the bottle flakes fed into the system, as the extrusion process is barely able to balance these fluctuations. Here, the VacuFil concept counters with blending silos, which reduce the differences in the viscosity of the polymers considerably and guarantee high yarn and fabric quality.

The VacuFil concept is installed upstream to an Oerlikon Barmag POY system, which transforms the recycled melt into filament yarn of the accustomed high quality. As texturing solutions, Oerlikon Barmag offers its state-of-the-art automatic eAFK-series systems, including the latest generation of the eAFK Evo, which was unveiled at the ITMA Barcelona last year. Yarn manufacturers wishing to continue texturing manually can use the eFK series.

With the VarioFil R+, producers of smaller batches now also have a compact system with an integrated recycled materials preparation unit at their disposal. The system offers a special extrusion system for bottle flake materials, the very latest metering and mixing technology for spin-dying and expanded 2-stage melt filtration. The four spinning positions are each equipped with an Oerlikon Barmag 10-end WINGS POY winder.

While mechanical recycling has already been extensively developed, chemical recycling for mixed fabrics is still presenting the textile industry with huge challenges. The Oerlikon Group’s Manmade Fibers segment is currently working on solutions and concepts for transforming these fabrics into new textiles.

• There is an urban legend that hemp canvas was used to make the very first pair of Levi’s jeans.
• While this is a myth that originated in the counterculture of the 1960s, hemp is without doubt the fibre of the moment for the denim industry.

At the second Kingpins24 virtual denim show that was broadcast from New York on June 23rd and 24th, the sustainable benefits of hemp fibre were referenced by many Monforts customers who are now including it in their collections, including AGI Denim, Artistic Milliners, Black Peony, Calik, Cone Denim, Naveena Denim Mills (NDM) and Orta.

“Hemp is an easy to grow fibre which requires no irrigation, no fertilizers, no herbicides and no chemicals,” says Allan Little, Director of Product Development for Cone Denim, which has recently launched its Sweet Leaf collection featuring the fibre. “Significantly, it also uses fifty per cent or even less water than cotton in cultivation.”

It can also bring some new aesthetics to denim too, he adds.

“Hemp has a unique colour and adds a different cast to our indigo, the drape and texture of the fabrics is different and it even adds  a bit of a unique hand, so combined with its sustainable credentials we are proud to be bringing the Sweet Leaf collection to the market.”

US supply chain

Cone is currently sourcing its hemp from France, but with much of its manufacturing now in Mexico – and with the introduction of the US Farm Bill in 2018 which has legalised the growing of legal hemp – is exploring the possibility of investing in the US supply chain.

“With US hemp we’re really at the R&D phase,” Little emphasises. “It’s a unique crop, so coming up with the right stalk to provide the right fibre is challenging. We’ve experimented with different types of seed and various methods of decortication.”

Decortication, he explains, is the mechanical removal of the outside layer of the hemp stalk to useable fibre on the inside. A second process, cottonization, is necessary to make the fibre suitable for spinning, because compared to cotton, hemp is longer, stiffer, and less flexible.

100% success

At the end of 2019, Naveena (NDM), headquartered in Karachi, introduced fabrics featuring up to 51% hemp content in blends with Tencel and recycled polyester and this year has developed the first 100% hemp denims.

“The response to the fabrics we showed last year was incredible and we were looking forward to the response to this latest development – which everyone was asking for – at the Kingpins show in Amsterdam, which unfortunately was unable to go ahead,” says NDM’s Director of Marketing Rashid Iqbal. “We produced initial samples in an undyed state because we were not sure how the wet spun yarn would react in the dyeing, but I’m happy to say we have had success in this respect and are now able to provide one hundred per cent indigo dyed hemp denim.”

Environmental benefits

“Differentiation is the key in the highly-competitive denim industry and we have assisted our customers with trials and optimised processing parameters for a range of different fibres, including hemp, both at our Advanced Technology Centre in Germany and at their own mills around the world,” says Hans Wroblowski, Monforts Head of Denim. “Given the environmental benefits of hemp, and the liberalisation of its cultivation in many parts of the world, the interest in it now comes as no surprise. We have the technologies and know-how to help our customers to fully maximise their hemp denims at all post-weaving stages of production.”

Monforts has a dominant position in the field of denim finishing with its well proven Montex stenters. It has been enjoying further recent success with its Eco Line concept based on two key technology advances – the Eco Applicator and the Thermo Stretch.

The latest Monforts innovation for denim is the CYD yarn dyeing system. This technology is based on the effective and established dyeing process for denim fabrics that is now being applied for yarn dyeing.

The CYD system also integrates new functions and processes into the weaving preparation processes – spinning, direct beaming, warping and assembly beaming, followed by sizing and dyeing – to increase quality, flexibility, economic viability and productivity. A full CYD line is now available for trials at the company’s Advanced Technology Centre.

The Oerlikon Barmag Huitong Engineering joint venture, part of the Oerlikon Manmade Fibers segment, recently commissioned a polycondensation system which feeds a polyester industrial yarn system. The future operator will be industrial yarn manufacturer Jiangsu Solead New Material Group Co. Ltd., which is placing its trust in the Oerlikon Manmade Fibers ‘From Melt to Yarn’ total solution philosophy.

This successfully concludes the first phase of this major project. Oerlikon Barmag Huitong Engineering installed the polycondensation system, which has a capacity of 600 tons a day, at Jiangsu Solead New Material Group Co. Ltd. in the Chinese Jiangsu Province. This will be connected to an Oerlikon Barmag industrial yarn spinning system with a 350-ton-a-day capacity. The new systems will be deployed to produce predominantly high-tenacity (HT) yarns for use in agricultural, infrastructure, transport, security and outdoor applications. These systems can be used to manufacture yarns with up to 3 x 6,600 dtex of high yarn quality with simultaneously high production efficiency. Furthermore, low-shrinkage yarns for coating textiles and so-called LDI yarns (high-tenacity, low-denier industrial yarns) for industrial sewing yarns, among other things, are also manufactured.