From the Sector

With the next generation of soft and stretchable electronics, reproducible and stretchable conductive inks are playing an increasingly important role in areas such as smart textiles, medical textiles or wearables. Saralon produces a range of stretchable conductive inks including Saral StretchSilver 500 for e-textile applications.

While electronic applications integrated into textiles gain popularity, printed stretchable conductive inks emerge as a transformative alternative for the complicated approach of weaving conductive yarns and fibres.

Just like choosing the right fabric and additives is vital for smart textile development, selecting the right conductive ink matters too. There are challenges to consider, such as conductivity, ink penetration into the fabric, changes in physical properties most importantly stretchability, printing process controllability, and reproducibility. That's why research and analysis are essential when deciding on the best conductive ink for a project.

Together with the Saxon Textile Research Institute e.V. (STFI) Saralon conducted some performance tests benchmarking our Saral StretchSilver Ink against some competitor product.

Results:
Conductivity:
Saral StretchSilver 500 consistently demonstrated superior conductivity, regardless of line width.

Fluctuations at lower widths:
Both inks exhibited fluctuations at narrower printed lines, but the Alternative Ink displayed significantly higher variations.

Reproducibility Insights:
Saral StretchSilver 500 maintained stable resistance at 2mm and beyond, while the Alternative Ink noticeably struggled.

Elongation behaviour:
Saral StretchSilver 500 harmoniously coexists with the textile. Its application has minimal impact on the fabric's stretching properties, ensuring stability. The Alternative Ink, on the other hand, leads to significant changes in textile’s elongation properties. With this ink, stretching demands considerably higher forces.

From June 24 to 28, a delegation of Italian textile machinery manufacturers will be engaged in Turkmenistan for an institutional mission organized by ACIMIT, the Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers, and Italian Trade Agency. The delegation will have some institutional and commercial meetings scheduled in Ashgabat.

For the Italian textile machinery industry, the Turkmen market has high growth potential. Cotton is the third largest export product of the Country, and local authorities aim to develop a robust textile industry capable of processing the locally grown raw material. Significant investments in new equipment will be necessary for the success of this development program. To achieve this goal, the demand for textile machinery and technologies is rapidly increasing.

This is testified by the average annual growth rate of Turkmen textile machinery imports between 2009 and 2023 (+7.3%). Furthermore in 2024-2027 period forecasts by ACIMIT predict a further average annual increase of 5.5%.

Meanwhile, in 2023, the demand for Italian textile machinery from Turkmen companies has grown. Italian exports increased from 600,000 euros in 2022 to approximately 13 million euros the following year.

The Italian companies participating in the institutional mission are: Brazzoli, Color Service, Itema, Marzoli, Mcs, Reggiani Macchine, Salvadè, Santoni.

Messe Düsseldorf Group and PRINTING United Alliance, two important printing technology event organizers, announce a closer working relationship.

Starting in 2024, the partnership of the trade fairs drupa and PRINTING United Expo located in Europe and North America, respectively, will bolster the reach of each brand throughout the industry. Both organizations, with their customer-centric focus, will look to make all their events even more relevant and beneficial to both attendees and exhibitors in the ever-changing printing technology landscape.

PRINTING United Expo 2024 will be held in Las Vegas from September 10-12 at the Las Vegas Convention Center.

Multiple global regulations set to take effect in the coming years have made traceability an imperative for retailers and brands. These include the Digital Product Passport, the Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive, and the New York Fashion Sustainability and Social Accountability Act, to name a few.

While companies are aware of the importance of traceability, research indicates that they are not prepared to comply with upcoming legislation. A recent KPMG survey highlighted that 43% of executives at major enterprises had no visibility or were “largely unclear” about the performance of their Tier 1 suppliers. At the same time, only 28% of companies had clear visibility into Tier 2 suppliers.

TradeBeyond’s recently published Supply Chain Traceability Guide, the latest installment of its Retail Sourcing Report series, highlights the myriad challenges that companies face in implementing effective traceability programs. This report is relevant for all industries, and is especially topical for the apparel and footwear sectors, which are under increasing scrutiny to enhance traceability to ensure sustainability.

The report highlights retail’s slow progress in achieving transparency, as evidenced by the Fashion Transparency Index, which found that the average transparency score across 250 of the world’s largest brands and retailers was just 23%. That suggests that progress on transparent disclosure of social and environmental data is still lagging.
 
The report shows that brands fall short on most key measures of sustainability and traceability, including publishing a responsible code of conduct and providing visibility into their Scope 3 carbon footprint. The United Nations Economics Commission found that only a third of the top one hundred global clothing companies track their own supply chains. One of the obstacles is complexity. More than two-thirds (69%) of fashion companies report that complexity of their global business networks is an obstacle to visibility.

In addition to a lack of visibility, false sustainability claims are also rampant. Greenpeace found that in the apparel and footwear sector, 39% of sustainability claims are false or deceptive. Lack of third-party verification of ESG measures is also rampant.

The highest scoring brands in the 2023 Fashion Transparency Index included luxury brands such as Gucci and retailers such Target Australia, Kmart Australia, OVS, and Benetton. These companies back up their commitment with solid action on multiple measures of traceability.

Along with legislative requirements, consumers are a key driving force pushing companies to improve their traceability initiatives. McKinsey research found that 66% of consumers consider transparency to be a key factor when making a purchase decision and 73% of consumers would pay more for products with transparency into production and sourcing.

The report also highlights key challenges to overcome in the journey to traceability, including effective communication between stakeholders, compliance with new regulations, technology barriers, and data complexity.

On the positive side, the industry is responding with sophisticated technology, including software systems that incorporate artificial intelligence and blockchain-enabled traceability, which provide the required visibility and compliance.

Traceable fiber technology, which allows for traceability from the material origin of a product until its end-life, provides the option of a “fiber-forward” rather than a “product backward” approach to achieving traceability.

Aside from the regulatory and consumer drivers, there is a strong business case for implementing traceability, which includes cost savings, operational efficiency, brand protection and reducing supply chain risk. As such, TradeBeyond expects a rapid evolution in traceability programs across industries, especially in those that lag in best-practices.

While there has been considerable progress in recent years toward accurately tracing the complete origins of products, much more needs to be done. Brands and retailers must intensify their efforts to stay compliant with escalating regulations and align with evolving consumer preferences.

Breaking new ground in plastics recycling means assessing the value chain from end to end. The big opportunities for the future are in fine-tuning the individual process steps; from the collection of recyclable materials to the recycling process and the end product. This is where the cooperation of Lindner and the EREMA Group comes in, officially launched following the 50/50 founding of the holding BLUEONE Solutions in August 2023 to which shares of Lindner Washtech were contributed. The expertise of EREMA, a manufacturer of extruders and filtration solutions for plastics recycling and the largest company within the EREMA Group, has now been combined with the expert know-how from Lindner Washtech, a leading provider of all-in-one solutions for shredding, sorting and washing plastic feed materials.

Data transfer ensures more efficient recycling processes
Process control is an especially important aspect of plastics recycling, which is why standardising the process control system was what the two companies focused on first. "Together, we have developed a platform that allows data to be exchanged between the extruder and the washing system," says Manfred Hackl, CEO of the EREMA Group at IFAT in Munich. "This enables us to analyse the data more precisely so that effective improvement measures can be deduced." All key parameters are taken into account and monitored via a digital interface. For example, it is possible to use information relating to the current throughput of the EREMA Pre Conditioning Unit to optimise the washing process as soon as possible so that it can compensate for fluctuations in capacity and achieve a significant increase in output. This data transfer represents a new step on the roadmap to digitalization.

High efficiency due to smart energy management
"To ensure sustainable recycling, it is necessary to find the right process for each application and to make sure that the individual process steps are perfectly coordinated," emphasizes Michael Lackner, Managing Director of Lindner. Coordinating the process steps has already achieved initial success in energy management, and a clear example of this is heat recovery. "We use the latent heat generated during the extrusion process as an energy source for the washing and drying process," explains Lackner. "This enables our customers to sustainably reduce their energy costs and carbon emissions".

Making the most of synergies along the value chain
Synergies need to be used to establish the quality standards specified for each end application. "The key question is how we can improve the end product and increase the overall efficiency of the recycling process at the same time," agree Manfred Hackl and Michael Lackner. This will only work if companies work together along the value chain. The industry leaders can already point to several examples where together they have improved recycling processes and made it possible to move away from downcycling. "An example of this is the recycling loop of HDPE starting material, which is processed into high-quality, food-safe rHDPE pellets using our two technologies," says Lackner. Lindner Washtech and EREMA continue to work intensively together to develop strategies for upcycling plastics and increase recycling rates.

The Salvation Army has launched a Take Back Scheme Fashion campaign featuring stylish looks from their generously received clothing donations. As the largest charity owned textile collector in the UK, the Scheme is operated by the trading arm of the charity (SATCoL) who have partnered with some of the largest retailers and brands in the UK including John Lewis and Tesco.
 
The Take Back Scheme is the perfect way for people to support the fashion circular economy while shopping online or instore with their favourite brands.  The campaign invites the public to be part of a drive to reduce waste and extend the useful life of products.

The fashion forward campaign features a collection of garments styled by fashion stylist Karl Willet. Karl is known for his elegantly classic, yet contemporary vision and the images for this campaign nod to his classic styles that stand the test of time.

Karl works with celebrities from across the music/film industry including Paloma Faith, Jermaine Jackson and Geri Halliwell to name a few. Karl shared, “Styling looks with second-hand clothing is a fun and creative way to express your personal style. It’s important to embrace sustainability because not only does it reduce environmental waste, but it also encourages individual style and is affordable. The Take Back Scheme is a way to make a positive difference.”
 
The donated garments featured in the campaign, were specially chosen to reflect The Salvation Army colours of red, white and black, and the charity’s message of hope. SATCoL has made their Take Back Scheme even more accessible with 2 in-store offerings and 12 clothing banks available online, so customers can donate their unwanted items on the go. Each year, The Salvation Army collects around 65,000 tonnes of textiles, diverting them to good uses and raising funds.

The profits raised from the resale of these donations is given to The Salvation Army to continue their work across the UK.

Monforts, which is celebrating its 140th anniversary this year, will exhibit a Montex stenter chamber with an integrated overhead heat recovery unit at the forthcoming ITM textile machinery exhibition in Istanbul from June 4-8.

The heat recovery unit on display at the stand of Monforts partner Neotek is just one of a range of energy saving options the company is now providing for both new and existing line installations.

Monforts Montex stenters and Thermex dyeing ranges are industry standard for the fabric finishing industry, providing many advantages in terms of production throughput and especially in energy efficiency and savings.

coaTTex
At ITM, Monforts will also introduce its latest coaTTex coating unit, dedicated to air knife and knife-over-roller coating. For single-sided application with paste or foam, the versatile coaTTex is suitable for both incorporation into existing finishing ranges as well as installation with new Monforts lines, especially Montex stenter systems.

A wide range of coatings can be applied to fabrics for providing functions such as waterproofing, liquid and gas protection and breathability, in addition to foam lamination and coating, including black-out coating.

Central location
“In Turkey we are very strongly supported by our representative Neotek, our solution partner on the ground for service, installation and commissioning, providing specialised and rapid help to all of our customers,” says Monforts Area Sales Manager Thomas Paeffgen. “ITM is always one of the most important exhibitions for Monforts, for meeting customers not just from Turkey, but across the Middle East and Central Asia, as well as Bangladesh, India and Pakistan.

“Istanbul’s centralised position makes it accessible to the majority of the major textile manufacturing hubs and as we mark our 140th anniversary in 2024, having been founded back in 1884, the ITM show will provide us with the ideal opportunity to celebrate with colleagues and customers all together in one location.”

The Trevira CS brand is celebrating its debut at Clerkenwell Design Week (CDW), which takes place in London from May 21-23 2024. The brand is particularly targeting interior architects, interior designers, and contract furnishers to present its innovations on sustainability. Trevira CS stands for flame retardant fabrics that have been tested for fire safety. They also offer numerous sustainable properties.

The London borough of Clerkenwell is home to more creative businesses and architects per square mile than anywhere else in the world, making it one of the most important design hubs in the world. To celebrate this rich and diverse community, Clerkenwell Design Week has created a unique opportunity to showcase the world's leading interior design brands. With more than 600 events in over 160 showrooms, more than 11 curated exhibitions, stunning installations, talks and a supporting program, CDW has established itself as the UK's leading design festival. The Trevira CS stand is part of the "German Collection - home to German Contemporary Design", which brings together a leading selection of renowned German brands.
 
The product range of flame-retardant Trevira® filament yarns now also includes 30 spun-dyed, UV-stable yarns, which are particularly suitable for outdoor use in fabrics in the hospitality sector and on cruise ships due to their high light fastness and UV resistance. They also score points for their sustainable properties, as the fabrics made from them can be produced in a more environmentally friendly way than textiles made from conventional yarns.

Trevira CS fabrics are also available in recycled versions. They consist of fiber and filament yarns that are obtained in various recycling processes. Fabrics made from these yarns can obtain the Trevira CS eco trademark. The prerequisite for this is a recycled content of at least 50%.

• Revenue up 5.7 percent year-on-year to EUR 658.4 million
• EBITDA more than doubles year-on-year to EUR 71.4 million
• Free cash flow of EUR 87.3 million (compared with minus EUR 132.3 million in the first quarter of 2023) and thereby positive for the third consecutive quarter
• Performance program shows positive effect on revenue, EDITDA, and free cash flow
• Lenzing confirms EBITDA guidance for 2024

The Lenzing Group, a leading supplier of regenerated cellulose for the textile and nonwovens industries, recorded a further improvement in fiber sales volumes in the first quarter of 2024. An expected recovery in markets relevant for Lenzing has to date failed to materialize. Fiber prices remained at a low level. Although the costs of raw materials and energy continued to decrease, they remained higher than in the pre-crisis 2019 year.

Outlook
Even though the IMF has upgraded its growth forecast for 2024 from 3.1 percent to 3.2 percent, a number of risks remain for the global economy: potential geopolitical shocks, persistently higher inflation and key interest rates, as well as market risks emanating from the Chinese real estate market are currently considered to be the most relevant.

General inflation and falling incomes in real terms are continuing to exert a negative impact on consumer sentiment. A recovery in the consumer clothing market, which is important for Lenzing, will also depend on a further normalization of stock levels.

The currency environment is expected to remain volatile in regions relevant to Lenzing.

In the trend-setting market for cotton, a stable price trend is expected for the 2023/2024 harvest season.

Earnings visibility remains limited overall.

Revenue and earnings in the first quarter exceeded Lenzing’s expectations, despite the persistently difficult market. Lenzing is ahead of schedule with the implementation of its performance program. By appointing a separate Managing Board member, the projects identified to date are to be implemented even more rapidly, and new potentials are to be leveraged. Lenzing expects that these measures will increasingly contribute to further earnings improvement over the coming quarters compared to the first quarter of 2024.

Taking the aforementioned factors into consideration, the Lenzing Group confirms its guidance for the 2024 financial year of year-on-year higher EBITDA.

In structural terms, Lenzing continues to anticipate growth in demand for environmentally responsible fibers for the textile and clothing industry as well as the hygiene and medical sectors. As a consequence, Lenzing is well positioned with its “Better Growth” strategy and plans to continue driving growth with specialty fibers as well as its sustainability goals, including the transformation from a linear to a circular economy model.

The Lenzing Group has achieved outstanding results in the Higg Facility Social & Labor Module (FSLM) certification for five of its production sites. This involved measuring the social impact of production in areas such as wages, working hours, health and safety and treatment of employees.

One of Lenzing's key sustainability goals is to obtain a valid, independently audited and accredited social standard certificate for each of the Lenzing Group's production sites by 2024. This goal is pursued through the Higg Facility Social & Labor Module (Higg FSLM), which assesses social and labor-related conditions. In 2023, more than 7,200 companies worldwide underwent this audit, with Lenzing's result placing it in the top 25 percent of all verified Higg FSLM facilities.

A recent study by the Society for Applied Economic Research in Innsbruck (Austria)¹ emphasises Lenzing's responsibility as an important employer. The Lenzing Group creates a total of 25,292 jobs in the five countries in which it operates production facilities. This figure includes not only employees, but also indirect jobs - because every direct job created creates more than two additional indirect jobs in other sectors of the economy.

1 GAW Wirtschaftsforschung: Economic and Regional Importance of the Lenzing Group in 2023; March 2024