From the Sector

SEEK renews its Give Bag collaboration with the OneWarmWinter homeless initiative

Last year, approx. 100 boxes of donations were collected at SEEK. They were then packed into 500 Give Bags and given out to the homeless as part of the New Year's celebrations at the Heilig-Kreuz-Kirche church in Kreuzberg.

“The charity campaign was an all-out success right from the start and would not have been possible without our partners of many years! We want to take further steps towards sustainability together and gradually distance ourselves from the massive waste in the fashion industry.”– Marie-Luise Patzelt, SEEK Team

There will be collections for donations this season, too. A large container will again be located in front of SEEK, where exhibitors’ donations can be accepted. This season will also see another box for donations at the trade fair itself, as well as at PREMIUM in STATION-Berlin, where more brand and private donations will be collected.

Paris Companies Inc. recently achieved Clean Green re-certification. This re-certification reflects their continued dedication to operational efficiency and sustainability.

Paris Companies Inc. first earned the Clean Green Certification in 2012. Companies that have earned this certification adhere to TRSA-designated water and energy use thresholds and deploy best management practices (BMPs) consistent with the ASTM International environmental laundering standard. Paris Companies’ customers can be assured their uniforms, towels and other reusable linens are washed, dried and finished with processes that maximize sustainability and reduce greenhouse emissions. Clean Green certified operations demonstrate significant commitment to conservation and green operations through these BMPs:

• Recovering heat from drained hot water and heat dispersed from the process of warming water
• Recapturing drained water from rinses for reuse
• Using environmentally friendly detergents
• Removing solids and liquids from wastewater
• Solar energy and energy-efficient lighting
• Recycling programs
• Re-routing trucks to save vehicle fuel
• Spill prevention plans

The Clean Green certification is valid for three years at a time. TRSA inspects laundry facilities seeking certification and approves documentation of their water and energy use and BMP deployment through production reports they submit to auditors during the inspections. TRSA’s certification management protocol includes auditor training by the association’s inspection program administrator.

Sustainability is part of SEEK’s internal make-up and has always been part of the team and community experience. Over 80 sustainable brands make up the brand portfolio, including players like Veja, Dedicated and Kings of Indigo. Experts will be sharing their experiences on this market-defining topic as well, with a host of live podcasts, talks and panel discussions, and will be shaping SEEK’s programme of content.
 
BIG PLAYER: the new SEEK Culture
 
SEEK is Europe’s most successful trade show for pop, street and sneaker culture. This is where the key players meet, where the looks of tomorrow are showcased, modelled and retold, where classics are celebrated, authenticity rules the roost and where icons take their positions alongside shooting stars. SEEK is essential participation for anyone looking to curate a modern, youthful and relevant range.

The shift from a niche event to a large trade show is now complete with a new logo and campaign design. SEEK has emerged from its transformation to reveal that its content and visual look are as relevant as ever!  

Together with creative agencies Karl Anders and Haebmau, the SEEK team has been working for weeks on the brand’s new branding. The result: a visual concept with a strong message.

“The handshake is the right imagery and commitment to our stance and that of the SEEK community.”

“SEEK stands for strength and business just as much as for communality and good vibes! ‘Get Along’ articulates a feeling of agreement, of moving forward and getting to grips with things. We all want to shape a positive future for our industry – as partners and by joining forces.”, explains Fashion Director Maren Wiebus.

CREATIVE CONNECTION: Karl Anders and Haebmau
 
The Hamburg-based agency Karl Anders, which was established by Claudia Fischer-Appelt and Lars Kreyenhagen, was commissioned to come up with the creative concept and design language for the logo and campaign.

“With the new look we are entering a new era for SEEK as a brand. Lots of brands have chosen a design using Helvetica in recent years,” says Claudia Fischer-Appelt, Creative Director at Karl Anders. “We are now signalling a clear shift in another direction. Confident, bold and independent. With the logo we are inviting the viewer to play with the linear layout in their head; we are breaking viewing habits, making a statement and revving things up a gear. SEEK, there it is.”
 
The artwork is the result of a process of in-depth debate with the SEEK brand that took place over several weeks both within the team and also with the support of lifestyle agency Haebmau. Workshops, research and analyses ultimately led to a new, strong brand identity. SEEK is focussed on both established and new players and stands for the WE.

“I have known SEEK since it was in its infancy, so to me it was always like a little brother of the large, successful PREMIUM. Quirky and different, always interesting but somehow not quite so imposing,” says Markus Bublitz, Executive Creative Director at Haebmau. “SEEK today is more grown-up, confident and sharper. Thanks to its position in the market, which it has conquered over the years, it no longer needs to please everyone but can afford to be controversial. This can offer space for new, creative ideas.”

SEEK is edgy, clean-cut and unpolished.

We are all about statement design, new classics, denim and sportswear. SEEK is the trade show event for the fashion community. SEEK knows who calls the shots; it boosts sales and is the place for the next generation of decision-makers to get together. Unlike all the others, SEEK is unconventional and the antidote to boring.

• Customer Story
• Technology takes uniform making to the next level
• To meet new challenges in the professional garment market and preserve over a century of savoir-faire, Balsan chose Lectra to modernize its production tools.

The challenge

A Groupe Marck company, Balsan designs and manufactures corporate and ceremonial clothing, tailored and customized uniforms, and personal protective equipment and clothing for the public and private sector which comply with international standards. The biggest challenge is to meet the new expectations of customers who seek increasing levels of customization with ever-shorter time-to-market deadlines.
The professional garment sector is subject to the same pressures as prêt-à-porter, and Balsan’s challenge was to produce customized clothing more quickly using intelligent manufacturing methods.

Results

Balsan was a pilot partner for the Fashion On Demand by Lectra solution. This alliance allowed Groupe Marck to take a new approach, involving not only the use of Fashion On Demand by Lectra’s connected cutter, but upstream software solutions as well, which are configured based on the company’s needs to best match its work methods while updating and accelerating the production process. “Using a measurement chart, Fashion On Demand by Lectra allowed us to generate well-adapted and customized patterns with which to produce our garments. The solution also provides extensive flexibility: we can send the model to the cutter, select the cutting orders and  even group them by fabric, and detect defects and launch re-cuts when necessary. This improves overall performance and delivers estimated productivity gains of 7%”. Stéphane Quiniou, Industrial and Quality Director, Groupe Marck

Lectra's response

Balsan was a pilot partner for the Fashion On Demand by Lectra solution. This alliance allowed Groupe Marck to take a new approach, involving not only the use of Fashion On Demand by Lectra’s connected cutter, but upstream software solutions as well, which are configured based on the company’s needs to best match its work methods while updating and accelerating the production process.

Heimtextil will launch the new 2020/2021 trend season with the general theme “WHERE I BELONG”. For the official Heimtextil Trend Preview, Stijlinstituut Amsterdam director Anne Marie Commandeur  introduced the new design themes. The presentation in the run-up to Heimtextil (7-10 January 2020) took place at the Textile Museum’s Textile Lab in Tilburg, the Netherlands on 11 September 2019 and was streamed worldwide.

This season, Stijlinstituut Amsterdam is responsible for the Trend Book content and Trend Space implementation at the upcoming international trade fair for home and contract textiles. Alongside Stijlinstituut Amsterdam, London-based studio FranklinTill and Danish agency SPOTT trends & business contributed to the 20/21 global forecast for perspective-related interior design. Together with the Heimtextil management team, these Trend Council participants gave insights into future styles during a workshop.

At the annual international Trend Council workshop, identity was an ever-present topic: part of a broader discussion on gender and cultural diversity, on tolerance and curiosity. Today, the self-identification process seems more complex than ever. Identities are now formed through experiences that take place simultaneously, on different levels. Locally, nationally, globally, both online and offline. Identity therefore can consist of many different layers. In fact, individuals can all have multilayered identities.

Heimtextil Trends 20/21 Overview:

MAXIMUM GLAM

Pleasure seekers revel in layering theatrical influences and glamorous showtime aesthetics, forging a fantastic marriage between the crafted and digitally rendered. Textiles show a ‘more is more’ attitude through a mash-up of glam, gradients and spectrums, fake fur, pile and fringe, jacquard weaves and fantastic prints. The flashy, kitsch colour range becomes brutally glam thanks to electric sheen, synthetic shimmer, digital glitch and artful blur. A riot of clashes and rebellion.

PURE SPIRITUAL

Idealists seek perfection and purity, restoring equilibrium by connecting with the uber-natural. They embrace technology for good while shifting between realism and mysticism in pursuit of a personal haven. To address a renewed bond with nature, organic matter, raw materials and pure textiles are selected which show nature’s traces, organic structures and irregularities. Shades are created from the earth and cultured by man. An elemental and pure range reflects the source of their existence.

ACTIVE URBAN

Urban dwellers confront the challenges of the fast paced, shape-shifting, man-made environment by searching for utilitarian, adaptable solutions. They value tech performance while making smart use of  available and renewable resources. Functionality is prioritised, while looking cool and working well remains key. Interior/sportswear hybrid textiles show smooth surfaces and a fun mash-up of graphic textures. The palette shows uniform blue, asphalt grey and caterpillar yellow.

HERITAGE LUX

Preservers of historic legacies treasure sensuousness alongside the uncanny, enlightenment together with darkness, for a whole new immersive experience. This new narrative translates to a love for luxury and splendour, decoration and embellishment. Finding beauty in history and nature through ornamental patterning and alluring surface enhancement. Reflecting on ancient history results in a palette featuring enigmatic blood red, sapphire and a lustrous mother-of-pearl.

MULTI-LOCAL

Hyper-locals go global, celebrating inclusivity over appropriation, honouring traditional craftsmanship and adjusting the world’s gaze to embrace exchange, creative integrity and diverse identities. Indigenous style meets global influences. This is a celebration of crafted and decorative pattern, from tribal and folkloric to geometric and abstract. Textile colours become part of a wider cultural narrative, linked to local community, cultural heritage and private identity.

You can find more Information here

At Munich Fabric Start, TINTEX introduces a new holistic approach to creating textiles that is built on the company’s DNA since 1998 for market leading, natural based, smart and responsible innovation

TINTEX is a unique fabric expert in materials and processes, and is introducing new levels of service to the market. First with the new Colorau® Natural Dye commercial innovation, and secondly with the TINTEX E-Commerce service that connects creativity with easy, direct-to-designer product sourcing.

The third innovation expands the company vision and influence into garment production with the SMART WARDROBE CO.LAB, a new supply chain cooperation working with three leading Portuguese makers.

But first you come and enjoy the unique touch and feel of the latest TINTEX Naturally Advanced fabrics with on-trend innovations enhanced by the new non-salt Colorau® Natural Dye process. This award-winning coloration technology fuses science, and creative innovation as a responsible evolution of better products that can now supply batches over 20kg.

The new A/W 20/21 collection starts from the concept of “WEME”: a Naturally Advanced offer that represents a multifaceted world. WE and ME refers to more than just the individual, but also about community and a collective spirit that seeks to grow the intellectual and spiritual individual needs in a responsive and collective way. It is a nuanced platform to discover a range of unique developments that embody the TINTEX identity through responsible innovation and creativity. Smart ingredients and processes drive innovation enhanced by the TINTEX unique dyeing and finishing expertise.

In January, the SEEK-team called on its exhibitors to donate pieces from their previous seasons’ collections and, together with One Warm Winter, used these donations to make up the first Goodie Bags for the homeless. For the summer Fashion Week it’s now all about trainers and the GIVE BAG initiative.

To help the campaign circulate in even bigger circles, the charity crew has been expanded to include four sneaker stores located across Germany. Hand on sneaker-loving heart: how many pairs does almost every sneaker fan have that could be put to better use on the streets rather than sitting gathering dust in a wardrobe? Acribik in Cologne, Allike in Hamburg, Overkill in Berlin and TINT in Munich: from 26 June to 16 July all these four stores are offering sneaker wearers the chance to give this or that pair of trainers their freedom, and therefore ensure that they will be worn by someone who really needs them.

Following its successful beginnings in summer 2018 and its expansion in January 2019, TRADE UNION will be developed yet further as a dedicated space for selected brands and agencies.
 
“TRADE UNION is very close to our hearts,” explains SEEK Director Maren Wiebus. “Being able to work together to fill a space with life, interact with customers and products, and tell authentic stories in a laid-back, relaxing atmosphere – this open-minded, collaborative approach is ultra-modern and of the minute in its simplicity. We are all in the same big boat and can consider ourselves lucky that colleagues and customers are and have become friends. Together, we can achieve a lot this way.”

It has always been integral to SEEK’s DNA to continually work with partners and friends to develop new concepts that are perfectly suited to the demands of the market. The carefully curated setting of TRADE UNION, featuring brands such as Eat Dust, Porter-Yoshida & Co and Knickerbocker, is especially popular with the top buyers.
 
Felix Engelmann has supported the concept right from the off through his marketing agency Haptiques, and is full of passion and on board again with the concept this season.
“The TRADE UNION concept really came off for us in January. We worked well with our partners; the vibe was positive and nicely relaxed. I’m expecting the atmosphere in the summer to be just as fantastic and I’m sure it’ll be a good occasion with friends, partners and employees.”
 
In July, buyers can look forward to an expanded portfolio including Red Wing Shoes, a brand from Minnesota. European Marketing Manager Rik van Dijk comments:
“We can't wait to attend the inspiring setting, because our buyers really feel at home there. We need a location where you can take a step back, find a quiet place to sit and talk to everyone. The extra space at the TRADE UNION guarantees this. We’ve only heard good things from friendly brands and we’re really looking forward to the trade show.”

Composite reinforcement specialist Chomarat will exhibit its latest woven and multiaxial carbon fibre reinforcements at JEC World 2019. "Prepregs are used in the most demanding markets, such as aerospace or the automotive industry. Due to their high performance, Chomarat’s carbon fabrics are highly considered by prepreggers. Compared to standard solutions, the multiaxial reinforcements developed by the group offer Chomarat’s converter customers significant productivity gains. With its production sites in France, Asia and the United States, Chomarat is able to supply its customers and guarantee the same high level of quality in all countries," explains Group Managing Director Michel Cognet.

C-WEAVE™ - THE QUALITY AND RELIABILITY BENCHMARK
In just a few years, prepreggers have come to consider Chomarat's C-WEAVE™ carbon-fibre fabrics as a benchmark for surface-finish quality and processability.
The reinforcement contributes to productivity and reliability during the prepregging process. Helen Doughty, Director at SHD Composites, testifies: “The consistent high quality of C-WEAVE™ has been a key part of SHD Composite Materials continued success and growth.”
"Prepreg users often manufacture Class A surface parts for demanding applications, and they need excellence and reproducibility," explains Chomarat’s Prepreg Market Manager Ulrike Salmon.

C-PLY™: GOING FURTHER WITH CARBON MULTIAXIALS
The advantages of multi-axial reinforcements are now well established - oriented axes, absence of resin-rich areas allowing a high fibre content, and improved mechanical tensile and/or bending performance thanks to the non-crimp fibres.
By developing its C-PLY™ range, Chomarat further demonstrates that multiaxials are a real asset in terms of performance and appearance. "Chomarat strives to minimize marking on parts and to optimize surface quality through fibre spreading and the use of suitable stitches. C-PLY™ can also integrate aesthetic functions by using the assembly seam as a graphic design", continues Ulrike Salmon.
These new advantages are important for the automotive, sports-equipment and consumer-electronics markets, which seek to combine premium quality and productivity.

A constantly evolving market and new global challenges ask for exciting concepts that unite the most forward-thinking players of the industry. For the show in January 2019, SEEK enters the next level with its TRADE UNION concept.
“At SEEK, we always look for new strategies to meet the demands of our valued buyers and brands”, explains SEEK Director Maren Wiebus. “Within that community spirit, TRADE UNION was created to enhance business opportunities for both sides. Moving away from a classic competitive model, SEEK’s TRADE UNION is about defining goals collaboratively – and achieving them together.”
 
SEEK’s 10th Anniversary marks an important moment not just for the event itself, but also for the TRADE UNION movement: with further development and relocation into the foyer of Arena Berlin, which highlights and strengthens this cooperative approach. Relevant buyers will be provided with special services and be able to reach an even more targeted brand audience what makes all parties benefit from this individual concept.
With his distribution agency Haptiques Felix Engelmann supports the TRADE UNION idea from the beginning and emphasizes the time saving aspect: “The few days in Berlin are always very important for my company so that I aim to max the business days as much as possible. The SEEK team is very empathic about the market needs and already started talking about the new concept inside of SEEK several seasons ago. We are looking forward to work with our partners and colleagues in an extra space where we are able to value the time and make the life of buyers, press and brands easier.”

And Engelmann is not the only fan of this concept that Wiebus and team developed together with their long-term partners.
''The TRADE UNION is a fantastic concept aimed at giving brands with a true heritage an opportunity to sit together in one personal space. We feel that this will give our brands an opportunity to be shown in the best light possible, within a relaxed environment,” explains Joe Sharpe, Sales Director at Options. “We’re excited to be a part of the Trade Union and looking forward to seeing existing and potential clients in January.