From the Sector

From February 8th to 11th, 2023, the third edition of IFCO, Istanbul Fashion Connection will take place in the Istanbul Exhibition Center.

The fair with over 600 exhibitors in 9 halls gives an overview of the new collections in the areas of womenswear, menswear, kidswear, denim, shoes, leather & furs. Separate platforms at IFCO are LinExpo for lingerie and hosiery and FashionIST with a wide range of wedding dresses, evening wear and suits. IFCO Sourcing, a new area at IFCO, offers the opportunity to find numerous companies for sourcing capacities.

Also new is the partnership with Igedo Exhibitions, Düsseldorf, which is responsible for the EUROPEAN SELECTION area at IFCO. International fashion labels present themselves at the fair as part of this participation.

More than 25,000 visitors from over 100 nations from all sales channels, from department stores and boutiques to online platforms from Eastern Europe, the Central Asian markets and the Arabian Gulf region, alongside buyers from Türkiye are expected at the show.

The declared goal of the organizers is to offer a "one-stop shopping solution" with IFCO that shows the creativity of the Turkish fashion scene, enables access to new sales markets and at the same time establishes the connection to potential production partners for supply chain optimization. The competitive advantages of production in Türkiye are evident:
short delivery times, high production quality, young and well-trained employees, the possibility of small minimum order quantities, a vertical textile and clothing industry that allows "one-stop shopping".

The manufacturing sector is an important sector for the industry, with over 80% of companies in Türkiye engaged in this sector. Türkiye has the fastest economic growth among the G20 after Saudi Arabia at 7.6% year-on-year in the second quarter of 2022, according to the Turkish Statistics Authority. Export is one of the most important pillars of growth.

The trade fair concept is being supported by the government with several programs. These include the cooperation with IMA, Istanbul ModaAkademisi, which regularly produces design talents becoming an integral part of the international fashion scene. IMA was founded in 2007 by ITKIB / IHKIB with the help of the IPA I program ((IPA: Instrument for Pre Accession Funds, provided by the EU for the EU candidate countries). Young design talents are brought to the stage at IFCO in cooperation with the ‘’Koza Young Fashion Designers Contest’’.

• Currency-neutral sales up 4%, reflecting continued double-digit growth outside Greater China
• Gross margin down 1.0pp to 49.1% as price increases were more than offset by increased supply chain costs, higher discounting, and an unfavorable market mix
• Operating profit of € 564 million reflecting an operating margin of 8.8%
• Net income from continuing operations of € 66 million negatively impacted by several one-off costs totaling almost € 300 million as well as extraordinary tax effects in Q3

“The market environment shifted at the beginning of September as consumer demand in Western markets slowed and traffic trends in Greater China further deteriorated. As a result, we saw a significant inventory buildup across the industry, leading to higher promotional activity during the remainder of the year which will increasingly weigh on our earnings,” said adidas CFO Harm Ohlmeyer. “We are encouraged by the enthusiasm for the upcoming FIFA World Cup which is already noticeable in our Football revenue growth. And in North America we are gearing up for an exciting upcoming basketball launch.”

In the third quarter, adidas’ currency-neutral revenues increased 4%. While the company experienced high-single-digit top-line growth during the first two months of the period, deteriorating traffic trends in Greater China as well as slowing consumer demand in major Western markets weighed on the revenue development in September. In addition, the company’s decision to suspend its own operations in Russia at the end of Q1 significantly reduced revenues by more than € 100 million during the third quarter, particularly impacting the company’s direct-to-consumer (DTC) business. In euro terms, the company’s revenues grew 11% to € 6.408 billion in the third quarter (2021: € 5.752 billion).

From a category perspective, revenue growth was the highest in adidas’ strategic growth categories Football and Running, both growing at strong double-digit rates. In Football, the jersey launches ahead of the FIFA World Cup 2022 fueled consumer excitement prior to the tournament. Revenues in Running were driven by the latest iterations of adidas’ successful running franchises, including Adizero and Supernova, which both grew more than 50% during the quarter. On the Lifestyle side, the further scaling of the successful Forum and Ozweego franchises led to strong double-digit growth for both product families. At the same time, additional highly limited drops as part of the Gucci and Balenciaga partnerships continued to spark excitement around the adidas brand.   

From a regional perspective, revenue growth was driven by the company’s Western markets and APAC, which combined continued to grow at a double-digit rate (+12%). In EMEA, revenues grew 7% despite the loss of revenue in Russia/CIS of more than € 100 million. Revenues in North America increased 8% during the quarter driven by a double-digit increase in the company’s DTC channel. In APAC and Latin America, revenue growth accelerated compared to Q2, reaching 15% and 51% respectively, year-on-year. In contrast, the company’s top-line development in Greater China continues to be severely impacted by the challenging market environment, mainly related to the ongoing covid-19-related restrictions. While the company’s own retail revenues in Greater China increased 7% in the third quarter reflecting a robust sell-out, the significant product takebacks reduced the company’s sell-in and resulted in a revenue decline of 27% for the market as a whole during the three-month period.  

Strong bottom-line improvement in 2023  
In 2023, the company expects the non-recurrence of the one-off costs of around € 500 million occurred in 2022 to have a positive impact on the net income development in the same magnitude. In addition, in light of the challenging market environment, adidas established a business improvement program to safeguard the company’s profitability in 2023. As part of this program the company has launched several initiatives to mitigate the significant cost increases resulting from the inflationary pressure across the company’s value chain as well as unfavorable currency movements. In total, the program, which will result in one-off costs of around € 50 million in the fourth quarter of 2022, is expected to compensate cost headwinds of up to € 500 million in 2023. In addition, it is expected to deliver a positive profit contribution of around € 200 million next year. 

adidas announces preliminary results for the third quarter and adjusted its full year 2022 guidance. The company’s new outlook takes into account a further deterioration of traffic trends in Greater China as well as a significant inventory build-up as a result of lower consumer demand in major Western markets since the beginning of September, which is expected to lead to higher promotional activity during the remainder of the year. The new outlook also reflects several one-off costs impacting the company’s bottom-line results in both the third and fourth quarter of the year.

Based on preliminary numbers, adidas’ currency-neutral revenues grew 4% during the third quarter. Currency-neutral sales in Greater China declined at a strong double-digit rate reflecting the continued widespread covid-19-related restrictions as well as significant inventory takebacks. Excluding Greater China, currency-neutral revenues in the company’s other markets combined continued to grow at a double-digit rate during the quarter. In euro terms, the company’s sales increased 11% to € 6.408 billion in Q3. The gross margin declined 1.0 percentage points to a level of 49.1% and operating margin reached 8.8% during the third quarter (2021: 11.7%). Net income from continuing operations was € 179 million in Q3 (2021: € 479 million). The bottom-line development during the quarter reflects several one-off costs totaling almost € 300 million on the net income level. The majority of these expenses reflect the company’s decision to initiate the wind-down of its business operations in Russia. In addition, non-recurring costs related to accelerated cash pooling in high inflationary countries, a recently settled legal dispute as well as higher provisions for customs-related risks also had an adverse effect on the company’s gross profit, operating overheads as well as financial and tax expenses in the quarter.

As a result of the deteriorating traffic trend in Greater China, higher clearance activity to reduce elevated inventory levels (up 63% on a currency-neutral basis at the end of Q3) as well as total one-off costs of around € 500 million on the net income level in 2022, the company reduced its full year guidance. adidas now expects currency-neutral revenues for the total company to grow at a mid-single-digit rate in 2022 (previously: mid- to high-single-digit rate), reflecting double-digit revenue growth during the fourth quarter. This growth will be driven by adidas’ strong product pipeline, support from the FIFA World Cup 2022 as well as easier prior year comparables. The company’s gross margin is now expected to be around 47.5% in 2022 (previously: around 49.0%). Consequently, the company’s operating margin is now forecasted to be around 4.0% in 2022 (previously: around 7.0%). Net income from continuing operations is expected to reach a level of around € 500 million (previously: around € 1.3 billion).

In 2023, the company expects the non-recurrence of the one-off costs of around € 500 million occurred in 2022 to have a positive impact on the net income development in the same order of magnitude. In addition, in light of the challenging market environment adidas established a business improvement program to safeguard the company’s profitability in 2023. As part of this program the company has launched several initiatives aimed at mitigating the significant cost increases resulting from the inflationary pressure across the company’s value chain as well as unfavorable currency movements. In total, the program, which will result in one-off costs of around € 50 million in the fourth quarter of 2022, is expected to compensate cost headwinds of up to € 500 million in 2023. In addition, it is expected to deliver a positive profit contribution of around € 200 million next year.

SHIMA SEIKI announces a sales promotion package for the apparel industry together with KDDI, Linking 3D fashion design with cross-reality― realizing digital catalogs, VR showrooms and new customer experience allowing 360-degree viewing without actual samples

Leading fashion technologist SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD. of Wakayama, Japan together with telecommunications company KDDI Corporation of Tokyo, Japan launched "XR Mannequin for APEXFiz," a sales promotion package that links SHIMA SEIKI's APEXFiz design software for the apparel industry with KDDI's XR (cross-reality) technology.

XR Mannequin for APEXFiz will be offered to the apparel industry. Using an XR Mannequin that enables viewers to check product images from any angle in 360 degrees on various devices, XR Mannequin for APEXFiz enables digital catalogues with 3D virtual sample image data of garments designed on APEXFiz design software, 360-degree VR showrooms, as well as digitally extended stores. It also realizes virtual proposals at exhibitions, showroom-style stores with no inventory, and user-friendly purchase experience on e-commerce sites, and more. It also allows users to reduce excess stock at stores and create new sales opportunities.

Eventually, by adding movement to models wearing Virtual Samples and rendering them on a cloud server, customers will be able to view high-resolution virtual fashion shows on their smartphones and other devices.

 Until now, the apparel industry has been making actual product samples in each of the planning and design stages of production. This process not only takes an enormous amount of time and cost, but generates waste of raw materials including fabric that require disposal. At the retail stage, stores also needed to have various sizes and colors in stock to address a wide range of customer preferences, resulting in excess inventory.

With SHIMA SEIKI's APEXFiz, designs can be evaluated without making actual samples, minimizing resources spent on sample production as well as lead time, enabling environmentally-friendly manufacturing.

In May 2022, KDDI developed a high-resolution XR mannequin for apparel sales, with support from Google Cloud. It enables various devices such as store signages and smartphones to check products from any angle in 360 degrees, enabling stores to sell products without maintaining inventory.

SHIMA SEIKI and KDDI combines APEXFiz and XR Mannequin to start providing XR Mannequin for APEXFiz. This brings DX solutions to all stages in the supply chain for the apparel industry, from planning and design to sample making, production, distribution, and retail sales. SHIMA SEIKI and KDDI will continue to create services together that link each other's products, to bring about a sustainable society by reducing excess stock, and providing a customer experience that gives peace of mind when purchasing products.

15,493 visitors from 107 countries attended the second Istanbul Fashion Connection. Over 300 companies showed their collections on more than 15,000 square meters of exhibition space and provided information about their creative collections and their production capacities in the areas of womenswear, menswear, kidswear, denim, shoes, leather and fur, lingerie and sportswear.

There was busy business activity, the ideal near shore capacities combined with the range of fashion collections experienced great demand. Istanbul Fashion Connection was a meeting point with the opportunity for a face-to-face meeting on a common platform. All trade channels were represented at the fair, from large shopping malls and department store groups to wholesalers, international retail chains, multi-brand boutiques and online platforms.

The global turkish exports in the first half of this year amounted to US$ 12.4 billion, which corresponds to an annual growth of 11.6%. In the EU alone, the total for this period is US$7.7 billion, a growth of 14.7%. Mustafa Gültepe, President of the Turkish Exporters Assembly and IHKIB, announced that ready-to-wear exports are to be increased to $40 billion in the medium term.

The organizers are expecting over 600 companies to attend next IFCO. The exhibitors for the sourcing area will take part in a separate hall. Leading companies have already registered with the association for this. Lingerie and bridal/evening wear will also be shown in their own hall, which seasonally only presents itself once a year in Turkey.
The participation of international fashion companies is encouraged, for which IFCO provides the springboard into the Eastern European market.

adidas is adjusting its outlook for the financial year 2022. While second quarter results were somewhat ahead of expectations reflecting continued strong momentum in Western markets and a return to growth in Asia-Pacific, the company has been experiencing a slower-than-expected recovery in its business in Greater China since the start of the third quarter. Previously, the company had assumed that in absence of any major lockdowns as of Q3, currency-neutral revenues in the region would be flat during the second half of the year versus the prior year level. However, given the continued widespread covid-19-related restrictions, adidas now expects revenues in Greater China to decline at a double-digit rate during the remainder of the year.

As a result, adidas now expects currency-neutral revenues for the total company to grow at a mid- to high-single-digit rate in 2022 (previously: at the lower end of the 11% – 13% range). Because of the less favorable market mix due to lower-than-expected revenues in Greater China as well as the impact from initiatives to clear excess inventories in this market until the end of the year, the company’s gross margin is now expected to be around 49.0% in 2022 (previously: around 50.7%). Consequently, the company’s operating margin is now forecasted to be around 7.0% in 2022 (previously: around 9.4%) and net income from continuing operations is expected to reach a level of around € 1.3 billion (previously: at the lower end of the € 1.8 billion – € 1.9 billion range).

So far, the company did not experience a meaningful slowdown in the sell-through of its products or significant cancellations of wholesale orders in any other market. Nevertheless, the adjusted guidance also accounts for a potential slowdown of consumer spending in these markets during the second half of the year as a result of the more challenging macroeconomic conditions.

Despite these headwinds, adidas continues to expect double-digit revenue growth during the second half of the year for the total company. In addition to easier prior year comparables, the acceleration will be driven by adidas’ strong product pipeline, the restocking opportunity with its wholesale customers given unconstrained supply as well as the support from major sporting events.

Based on preliminary numbers, adidas’ currency-neutral revenues grew 4% during the second quarter. This increase was driven by strong double-digit growth in North America and Latin America, high-single-digit growth in EMEA (also double-digit growth excluding negative Russia/CIS impact) as well as a return to growth in Asia-Pacific. In euro terms, sales increased 10% to € 5.596 billion. The company’s gross margin declined 1.5 percentage points to a level of 50.3% and operating margin reached 7.0% during the second quarter (2021: 10.7%). Net income from continuing operations was € 360 million in Q2 (2021: € 387 million) supported by a one-time tax benefit of more than € 100 million due to the reversal of a prior year provision.

Premium Group and JOOR have renewed their partnership to power the SS23 PREMIUM and SEEK trade shows through JOOR’s digital platform, underpinning their belief in the power of a hybrid approach to wholesale.

From 7 - 9 July, buyers visiting the shows in Berlin will be able to learn more about and shop from exhibitors in a new hybrid way. Buyers can discover the full PREMIUM and SEEK portfolio of brands both in-person and online 24/7 by visiting JOOR Passport, JOOR's digital trade show destination.

Premium Group unites its various show locations to one cosmos for SS23 at Messe Berlin. The PREMIUM and SEEK shows will be joined by two further components— The Ground is a D2C creative platform for brands and consumers to meet, connect, and collaborate through one-of-a-kind experiences, engaging content, and innovative products, while FASHIONTECH, features masterclasses and panel discussions from the fashion industry’s most brilliant minds. A calendar of content includes deep dives into strong, successful, and sustainable strategies. As part of the content offer, JOOR will facilitate a masterclass on ‘Digital Wholesale’ and a future-looking roundtable discussion with four leading fashion brands on the FASHIONTECH stage.

Throughout the duration of the show, in-person buyers and visitors will have the ability to shop via the Premium Group mobile app. By simply scanning a brand’s corresponding QR code, visitors will link to the brand’s custom profile on JOOR Passport and be able to shop collections directly on the platform. JOOR Passport will also extend the duration of the shows by up to three months, allowing brands to continue wholesale selling digitally outside the window of the physical show.

JOOR and Premium Group’s flexible hybrid format allows visitors and brands a seamless digital and physical introduction to each other and their collections, the opportunity to connect in an efficient, effective, and longer term way, and the convenience to shop the show 24 hours a day from anywhere in the world.

Brands participating include Drykorn, Closed, Bertoni of Denmark, Veja, Ecoalf, Wrangler and Absolut Cashmere.

• Currency-neutral sales down 3% as supply constraints reduce top-line by € 400 million
• Western markets continue to show strong momentum with combined currency-neutral sales growing 13% across North America (+13%), EMEA (+9%) and Latin America (+38%)  
• Gross margin down 1.9pp to 49.9% driven by significantly higher supply chain costs
• Operating margin of 8.2% reflecting additional investments into brand, DTC, and digital
• Net income from continuing operations reaches € 310 million
• FY 2022 outlook for revenue and net income confirmed at the lower end due to the impact from covid-19-related lockdowns in Greater China

“In the first quarter, consumer demand for our brand and products was strong in all Western markets. Our combined sales in North America, EMEA and Latin America grew at a double-digit rate. Backed by an exceptionally strong wholesale order book and relentless focus on driving growth in our own DTC channels, we expect this positive development to continue for the rest of the year,” said adidas CEO Kasper Rorsted. “In the East, we will return to growth in Asia-Pacific in the second quarter, while we expect the challenging market environment in Greater China to continue. With strong double-digit growth in the vast majority of our markets, representing more than 80% of our business, we are well positioned for success in 2022. “

For the full press release, see attached document.

• Revenue Increases to HK$8,316 Million with Net Profit After Tax Surging Significantly
• Recording a Turnaround to HK$381 Million
• Re-Establishes ESPRIT’s Market Leadership

ESPRIT HOLDINGS LIMITED has announced its audited financial annual results for the year ended 31 December 2021, highlighted by a significant increase in both revenue and profit attributable to shareholders of the Company to HK$8,316 million and HK$381 million respectively, in which the profit attributable to shareholders of the Company also recorded a turnaround versus the loss attributable to shareholders of the Company of HK$414 million for the six months ended 31 December 2020. Gross profit margin was 48.6%, 7.0% higher than the Corresponding Period. Please refer to the Company’s results announcement for the Current Year for further details.

Such financial improvement was attributable to various reasons, including (i) the new infrastructure and strategies instituted by the current management team; (ii) improvement in sales with higher gross profit margin; (iii) positive results of efficient cost control measures; (iv) improved inventory management; and (v) growth in E-commerce.

Although revenue in the Current Year was affected by lockdowns in the Company’s major European markets during the first quarter of 2021, and due to increased restrictions on entry requirements into stores during the fourth quarter of 2021, the Group generated revenue via three main channels: E-commerce, wholesale, and owned retail stores. As the ESPRIT brand website and third-party E-commerce partners continued to trade during lockdown, a large portion of the Group’s sales were generated online. This business model allowed it to mitigate some of the negative impacts of the Pandemic in the retail segment. Another driver of growth came from selling fewer discounted products from the Company’s retail business compared to 2020.

The Group has not forgotten the ESPRIT mission and long-standing commitment to sustainability. The Company has continued to work tirelessly towards developing cutting-edge materials that set new standards in terms of environmental sustainability. The Company has formulated and further advanced its ESG strategies to establish ESPRIT as an industry pioneer. Such strategies involve the greater use of sustainable fibers, developing new and innovative product options that support a circular economy, and ensuring environmental awareness is a key message that underpins all of the Group’s projects. To achieve these objectives, the Management has identified four key pillars of growth (Sourcing and Procurement; Marketing and Product; IT, Internet, and E-commerce; and The ESPRIT Brand Story) that are paramount in maintaining the loyalty of existing ESPRIT patrons and attracting new customers.

Looking ahead, the global economy is anticipated to be negatively affected by the lingering effects of the coronavirus pandemic and the conflict in Ukraine. The already unstable logistics industry and disrupted supply chain will likely be further impacted, which in turn will result in higher logistic service costs. Despite the unfavorable global economic outlook, the Group believes that under the leadership of its current management and with the support of dedicated staff members, the Company is on track to ongoing profit growth.

For the summer events at the Berlin exhibition center, the Premium Group is relying on a new mix of fashion, business, content and entertainment.

The State of Style & Culture
The Premium Group is expanding its portfolio in the summer to include the consumer festival THE GROUND in addition to the existing PREMIUM and SEEK trade fairs and is presenting numerous innovations for the long-awaited reunion of the industry in Berlin.

The new location Messe Berlin will become the Premium Group cosmos, a holistic inspirational hub for all relevant topics related to fashion, trends, retail, lifestyle, marketing, digitization, sustainability, metaverse and more.

In July, brands and partners can also present themselves to end consumers for the first time as part of the new event THE GROUND, 'Direct to Consumer'. Consumers get access to THE GROUND, while trade visitors are invited to view the full range and be inspired throughout the site.

PREMIUM: New tripartition with new segments
In order to be able to show all relevant segments of advanced contemporary fashion even better and more holistically, the PREMIUM portfolio will be divided into three new areas from the summer. With the segmentation into High, Icon & Volume, large, commercially successful brands as well as more focused designer brands, newcomers and smaller innovators will now find their place. Here the PREMIUM fashion team advises all partners in detail in order to guarantee ideal positioning and the possibility of storytelling.

SEEK: Premiere of the SEEK Conscious Club
Sustainability has been part of the culture of the SEEK brand since it was founded 12 years ago. With the new SEEK Conscious Club, in addition to the SEEK area with well-known and new SEEKERS, a dedicated area for sustainable brands is being created. SEEK offers them the stage and space to grow and the attention to optimally spread brand values. The international SEEK community is represented by niche brands as well as commercially successful players. And the established TRADE UNION for brands with a particularly sharp sales strategy will once again have an exclusive area in the new location.

THE GROUND: Festival for Style & Culture
With the new Direct to Consumer Festival THE GROUND, the Premium Group is now also inviting Gen-Z, Gen-Y and Culture Pioneers once a year. Music acts, panels and live talks with well-known speakers and influencers, creative workshops, sports and wellbeing sessions are intended to inspire, enrich, enlighten and inspire exchange: entertainment, edutainment and experiences.

THE GROUND turns live streams into live encounters, consumers into co-creators and classic retailers into strategic marketing and event partners. Here, through emotional experiences and unique showcases, brands can be experienced and interested customers become loyal brand fans. Topics relevant to society and generations, such as fashion, sports, beauty & well-being, metaverse & gaming, will be featured in the area as well as in talks and master classes as part of the FASHIONTECH content format.

"In order to remain sustainable, we want and need to merge B2B and D2C and create a place - a marketplace for ideas and products - where brands, retailers and consumers come together and learn from each other. For the first time, we are offering holistic reach, synergy and network effects,” explains Jörg Arntz, Managing Director Premium Group.

“B2B and D2C will take place in parallel on one site, although of course there will still be an area for professionals only, i.e. exclusively for the industry. The D2C area is accessible to both end consumers and trade visitors. In addition to our trade fairs, we create new content from which our visitors and exhibitors benefit.”

During the event, which will take place from Thursday to Saturday for the first time, it will be about exchange, trends, inspiration and emotion, new brands, the further development of well-known players, creative collection presentations and of course what the fashion world and its protagonists * inside: joy and passion. In order for this to work and for the long-term existence of the new event concept in Berlin to be guaranteed, everyone involved is asked, challenged and responsible.
 
Selected brand highlights:
American Vintage // Aigner // At.p.Co  // Ben Sherman // Blue de Geñes // Buffalo // Camper // C.O.F. Studio // Copenhagen Studios // Coster Copenhagen // Crep Protect // Denham // Dstrezzed // Drykorn // Ecoalf 1.0 //  Edwin // Ellesse // Fabienne Chapot //  Fleurs de Bagne // Floris Van Bommel // Gant //  Happy Socks // Helene Galwas // Herrlicher // Hiltl //  Horizn Studios // Ilse Jacobsen // Izipizi Paris // Kangaroos // Kennel & Schmenger Schuhmanufaktur // Keen // K-Swiss // Lee // Merz b. Schwanen // Moss Copenhagen // Nautica  // Novesta // Nudie Jeans //  O My Bag // Pantofola D’Oro 1886  // People of Shibuya // Palladium // Pendleton Woolen Mills // Puma // Property Of //  Reyn Spooner // Sandqvist // Saucony // Studio Seidensticker // Stutterheim // Sofie Schnoor // Steve Madden // Thinking Mu // Ucon Acrobatics //  Uniform Bridge // Veja // Womsh // Wool & Co // Wrangler// Yaya // Zespá