From the Sector

With over 5,000 tailored installations for a range of industries installed in over 60 countries, Eton Systems, headquartered in Gånghester, Sweden, has established a reputation as a clear leader in the field of complete material handling systems.

At ITMA 2019 in Barcelona from June 20-26th, the company will be demonstrating a complete installation based on a future production concept, with advanced software providing real-time information covering every aspect of the process.

“Our systems are a natural fit with the major Industry 4.0 networked manufacturing plants that are now being constructed worldwide for sectors such as the garment and home textiles manufacturing and automotive industries,” says Eton’s Sales and Commercial Director Roger Ryrlén. “We have had a very busy last 12 months, with more major projects in the pipeline. We understand, however, that one solution does not fit all situations, which is why we think in terms of custom-made solutions matched to specific customer needs. Buying a system from us, is buying a solution and a partnership. Each system includes support, service, training and knowledge built on more than 70 years of experience. When a customer invests in an Eton System the increased efficiency normally results in savings of between 40-60%.”

A typical system consists of overhead conveyors with individually-addressable product carriers which automatically steer their way through programmed operation sequences. They are monitored by a computer providing all the necessary data for optimally measuring and managing processes. The systems are also highly flexible and can be rapidly modified to changes in the production line or the need for expansion.

Options for smart factories
Eton’s Flexible Productivity Concept (FPC) is based on two system platforms with a wide range of options, including:

• Multiple rails for sorting at workstations.
• Buffering
• Automatic loading devices, pick-ups and work delivery robots.
• Bridges and elevators that link systems and floors.
• Historical links to products after completion.
• Module-based software.

Via an addressable product carrier, an Eton system transports all the components of a complete product through the manufacturing process.

Eton Systems will be at stand A214, in Hall 2 at the Barcelona exhibition.

• Challenging market environment due to low prices for standard viscose, less favorable exchange rates and higher raw material and energy prices
• Very positive development of specialty fiber business with revenue share exceeding 45 percent
• Dividend proposal of EUR 3.00/share plus a special dividend of EUR 2.00/share
• Results for 2019 expected at about the level of 2018 despite a significantly more demanding market environment

The Lenzing Group’s business developed well in the 2018 financial year. A significantly more challenging market environment led to a decline in revenue as well as earnings compared with the record results of the previous year. This was primarily caused by lower selling prices for standard viscose, exchange rate effects as well as higher raw material and energy costs.

Group revenue declined by 3.7 percent compared with the previous year to EUR 2.18 bn. The predicted challenging market environment for standard viscose, plus less favorable exchange rates and a slight decline in sales volume were the key contributing factors. EBITDA (earnings before interest, tax, depreciation and amortization) was down by 24 percent to EUR 382 million due to price increases for key raw materials and higher energy and personnel costs. The EBITDA margin dropped from 22.2 percent in the 2017 financial year to 17.6 percent in the reporting year. EBIT (earnings before interest and tax) fell by 36 percent to EUR 237.6 mn, leading to a lower EBIT margin of 10.9 percent (2017: 16.4 percent). Net profit for the year after one-off effects dropped by 47.4 percent from EUR 281.7 mn in the previous year to EUR 148.2 mn. Earnings per share equaled EUR 5.61 (2017: EUR 10.47).

The Management Board and the Supervisory Board will propose a stable dividend of EUR 3.00 per share plus a special dividend of EUR 2.00 per share at the upcoming Annual General Meeting. In total, the paid dividend will amount to EUR 5.00 per share, corresponding to a dividend payment to shareholders of roughly EUR 133 mn.

• HPR is the highest status a plant can achieve for fire risk prevention and protection
• The site Beaulieu Fibres International is the fourth in the Beaulieu International Group to reach HPR status
• Underlines Group’s commitment to risk prevention at B.I.G. sites & to reinforcing our strong business contingency plan

Beaulieu Fibres International, one of the leading polyolefin staple fibre producers, is pleased to announce the achievement of Highly Protected Risk (HPR) status for its production site in Wielsbeke, a designation that means a facility meets the highest industry standards for property protection.

HPR status was awarded by FM Global, Beaulieu International Group’s (B.I.G.) industrial property and business interruption insurer for the past three years. The company offers B.I.G a unique concept that supports the Group in reducing its exposure to loss and increasing its business resilience. A dedicated worldwide team of engineers focuses on providing assistance and protection of its assets, helping the Group to achieve a higher level of risk protection.

The Beaulieu Fibres International site produces high performance fibres for a large variety of applications and market segments. It scored exceptionally well in its FM Global assessment which focused on aspects including fire protection, protection against natural hazards, mechanical breakdown of machinery, cyber risks and consequent business interruption.

Its overall risk mark of 83 ranks it within the top 25% of its industry for fire risk prevention and protection.

Commenting on the Award, Maria Teresa Tomaselli, Global Sales Director Fibres, said: “This HPR fibre production site reinforces strongly our supply chain security and demonstrates our engagement towards our customers and partners. Our contingency planning and risk management are essential, well-considered elements within our long-term business strategy to demanding sectors such as Automotive, Geotextiles, Flooring industries.”

Gianluca Croci's priority will be to support Lectra's French customers in their transformation towards Industry 4.0
Lectra announces the appointment of Gianluca Croci as Managing Director, Lectra France. Based in Paris, Gianluca Croci reports to Fabio Canali, President, Southern Europe & North Africa.

Gianluca Croci has more than 20 years of experience in the fashion industry. He began his career in 1998 in the department store chain La Rinascente before joining the Giorgio Armani group in 2002, where he managed, from 2006 to 2015, the Belgian and French subsidiaries. Gianluca Croci later held management positions for major fashion and luxury brands, such as Roberto Cavalli and Marcolin, and was recently the Sales & Marketing Director for Technogym France, a designer of sports equipment.

Gianluca Croci will fulfil Lectra's promise to fashion companies in France: to facilitate the digitalization of their know-how in order to empower them to make a successful transition to Industry 4.0. This ambition is being realized by the 2018 launch of the revolutionary solution, Fashion On Demand by Lectra, which enables fashion companies to customize a garment or make it to measure. This end-to-end personalization offer—the first of its kind—complements a portfolio that is known to solve the pressing challenges confronting the fashion industry. The latest, Kubix Link, developed by Kubix Lab, a start-up acquired by Lectra in January 2018, is an innovative platform for managing product information.

"France is known worldwide for being a leader in fashion and technological innovation. It is a country where brands, retailers and manufacturers have already begun their transformation towards Industry 4.0. I am proud to support our customers’ pursuit of greater connectivity and collaboration in their operations, as well as in assisting them to make the shift to personalization," says Gianluca Croci.
Gianluca Croci and his teams are committed to providing their French customers with the high level of expertise and service that characterizes Lectra's value proposition.
Gianluca Croci's efforts are also tied to the dynamic activities of Lectra Southern Europe & North Africa. There are many synergies in the region’s fashion industry, ranging from the sharing of expertise between French and Italian companies to the integration into their ecosystem of the Moroccan and Tunisian subcontractors.

"Our regional organization enables us to be closer to our customers’ challenges and to provide them with the support they need to achieve their ongoing targets. Gianluca Croci will lead the French teams and contribute to the region's growth," says Fabio Canali. "His extensive experience with major Italian and French companies brings new energy to the development of Lectra France.”
Gianluca Croci is a graduate of the European Institute of Business Administration (INSEAD), Fontainebleau (France), and the Catholic University of the Sacred Heart, Milan (Italy).

• Innovative BCF S8 platform technology opens up new carpet yarn industry markets for Oerlikon Neumag customers

World premiere at the DOMOTEX World Trade Fair for Carpets and Floor Coverings in Hanover: between January 11 bis 14, 2019‎, Oerlikon Neumag will be showcasing its innovative new development, the BCF S8, to a wide audience for the very first time in Hall 11, Stand B36. Whether commodities or niche products – the new BCF S8 platform technology offers manufacturers of BCF carpet yarns decisive arguments for responding to constantly rising cost pressures and the trend for greater efficiency and quality in fiercely-competitive markets. World record: the system achieves never-seen-before spinning speeds and is able to simultaneously spin up to 700 filaments and produce fine titers of up to 2.5 dpf. This superlative performance is guaranteed by numerous individual innovations in the new platform and, for the first time, also in a new human-machine interface (HMI)-based control system, which opens the door to the digital age of smart carpet yarn manufacturing wide. At the ITMA ASIA 2018, the Oerlikon Manmade Fibers segment had already announced that it would be presenting revolutionary solutions in 2019 – both in hardware and software. And the DOMOTEX marks only the start.

According to manufacturer information, the new BCF S8 is the most efficient Oerlikon Neumag BCF system of all times. “We have succeeded in achieving a new level of greater productivity and even broader product diversity. These allow our clientèle to better cater to changing market requirements and achieve a competitive edge in tough market conditions”, explains Martin Rademacher, Vice President Sales Oerlikon Neumag. As a pre-taste, the machine specialists from Neumünster are serving up performance figures and results from comprehensive trials conducted at their own BCF technology center as well as from two pilot systems which have been tried and tested within the market for months now.

BCF S8 performance in numbers
With up to 700 potential filaments per yarn end, the BCF S8 is raising the benchmark considerably compared to the Oerlikon Neumag S+ BCF system (400 filaments) that has dominated the global market to date. Oerlikon Neumag guarantees fine titers of up to 2.5 dpf. Furthermore, the process speed is higher than ever before – 3,700 m/min (winder speed). This permits throughputs of up to 15 percent greater compared to predecessor technologies. Overall, system efficiency is 99 percent – almost unbeatable. True to the Oerlikon Segments Manmade Fibers segment e-save philosophy, energy savings of up to 5 percent per kilogram of yarn are achievable.

BCF S8 innovations – from straight yarn paths to large cooling drums

This comprehensive progress has been achieved with numerous smart innovations. To this end, one key element above all has been optimized. The yarn path from the spinning system to the new, large cooling drum has now been almost completely straightened. This yarn path, unique to the BCF market to date, ensures that the individual filaments are subjected to minimum friction, hence once again considerably reducing yarn breaks and optimizing the overall production process. Especially noteworthy here are the, for the first time, straight yarn inlet in the texturing head – guaranteeing superior yarn quality.

And the considerably reduced distance between the heating godet duo and the texturing head also has a positive impact on the texturing process. It ensures a more even twist to the yarn and reduces the compressed air consumption. Furthermore, the texturing chambers can be removed individually, which additionally shortens servicing times. The now closed units also provide the best possible protection for the texturing jets and lamellar chambers.

The 800-mm diameter cooling drum optimally and gently cools the filaments. And this has a positive influence on the yarn quality. The new cooling drum is now equipped with a V groove for all polymers (PET, PA6 and PP) as standard.

The RoTac3 tangling unit, already established within the market, once again reduces the compressed air consumption by around 50%, while the newly-developed Witras III-37 winder achieves production process speeds of 3,700 m/min.

First intuitively-operable human-machine interface (HMI)
The new BCF S8 is the first Oerlikon Manmade Fibers segment system equipped with the innovative human-machine interface (HMI) for intelligent controlling and monitoring. In this case, the interface between man and machine has been oriented on the daily requirements of users in BCF production. With its new ‘look and feel’, it supports intuitive operation and offers direct access to important information as well as actual and target values at each take-up position by means of a touch screen. A completely new ‘alarm philosophy’ also simplifies troubleshooting and malfunction analysis. “This smart HMI system is a logical step in the digitalization of our products”, explains Dr. Friedrich Lennemann, Vice President R&D Oerlikon Neumag.

A constantly evolving market and new global challenges ask for exciting concepts that unite the most forward-thinking players of the industry. For the show in January 2019, SEEK enters the next level with its TRADE UNION concept.
“At SEEK, we always look for new strategies to meet the demands of our valued buyers and brands”, explains SEEK Director Maren Wiebus. “Within that community spirit, TRADE UNION was created to enhance business opportunities for both sides. Moving away from a classic competitive model, SEEK’s TRADE UNION is about defining goals collaboratively – and achieving them together.”
 
SEEK’s 10th Anniversary marks an important moment not just for the event itself, but also for the TRADE UNION movement: with further development and relocation into the foyer of Arena Berlin, which highlights and strengthens this cooperative approach. Relevant buyers will be provided with special services and be able to reach an even more targeted brand audience what makes all parties benefit from this individual concept.
With his distribution agency Haptiques Felix Engelmann supports the TRADE UNION idea from the beginning and emphasizes the time saving aspect: “The few days in Berlin are always very important for my company so that I aim to max the business days as much as possible. The SEEK team is very empathic about the market needs and already started talking about the new concept inside of SEEK several seasons ago. We are looking forward to work with our partners and colleagues in an extra space where we are able to value the time and make the life of buyers, press and brands easier.”

And Engelmann is not the only fan of this concept that Wiebus and team developed together with their long-term partners.
''The TRADE UNION is a fantastic concept aimed at giving brands with a true heritage an opportunity to sit together in one personal space. We feel that this will give our brands an opportunity to be shown in the best light possible, within a relaxed environment,” explains Joe Sharpe, Sales Director at Options. “We’re excited to be a part of the Trade Union and looking forward to seeing existing and potential clients in January.

Oerlikons business unit Nonwoven will cooperate with the Chinese machine and plant manufacturer Shaoyang Textile Machinery for nonwoven solutions in the hygiene market. This was announced by the Manmade Fibers segment at ITMA ASIA + CITME 2018.

The aim of both cooperation partners is to jointly advance the international sales of Spunmelt lines for hygiene applications in the field of disposable nonwovens outside China.
Oerlikons business unit Nonwoven will be responsible for the entire project in the future. To this end, the Neumünster-based company will contribute its know-how in plant engineering to the partnership. Additionally, Oerlikon acquires the CE certifications of all exported Shaoyang Spunmelt lines. Oerlikon will also be responsible for product and process guarantees and will provide worldwide customer services outside China. Shaoyang Textile Machinery, on the other hand, supplies the Spunmelt plant technologies.
"With Shaoyang Textile Machinery, we have found a renowned Chinese plant manufacturer with extensive know-how in the construction of Spunmelt plants for hygiene applications, which achieves international standards with its nonwoven qualities," explains Oerlikon Manmade Fiber Segment CEO Georg Stausberg.
Rainer Straub, Head of Oerlikons Nonwoven Business Unit, adds: "The partnership with Shaoyang Textile Machinery enables us to gain a foothold in the highly competitive hygiene market. Our many years of engineering experience guarantee our customers production lines according to international
standards for high-quality nonwovens".

• 16-18 October 2018, Kay Bailey Hutchinson Convention Center, Dallas, TX

A skateboard, architectural panels and a rigid roof for boats – all three products rely on CHOMARAT composite reinforcements. The three designs will be on display at CAMX Expo in the demonstration area of COMPOSITES ONE, partner of CHOMARAT and leader in composites distribution in North America. CHOMARAT’s reinforcements enable to give unique properties to these three applications.

Proof positive: reinforcements offer design flexibility & improved mechanical performance

These three applications give CHOMARAT the opportunity to demonstrate the performance of its uniquely designed reinforcements in real time. “The skateboard combines Rovicore™, the multi-function closed-mold reinforcement developed by CHOMARAT, with C-Weave™, its woven carbon fabric that offers both structural performance and aesthetics to the design. Rovicore™ provides the permeability, while C-Weave™ provides the carbon aspect,” explains Brian Laufenberg, president, CHOMARAT North America.

During the live demos, architectural panels using Rovicore™ and a rigid boat roof in RTM will also be made. “With 60 years of expertise in designing composite reinforcements, CHOMARAT demonstrates that its reinforcements offer excellent mechanical performance and design for a large number of projects in sectors as diverse as sport and leisure, marine and building,” adds Travis IRVIN, Sales Manager and Closed Mould Process Expert at CHOMARAT.

Meet CHOMARAT teams at BOOTH V39 and see Live demos in the COMPOSITES ONE demonstration area at CAMX 2018 EXPO

The Aachen Center for Integrative Lightweight Production (AZL) of RWTH Aachen University is installing a new ENGEL injection molding system in its technical center. Engel Deutschland GmbH – in cooperation with the ENGEL Centre for Lightweight Composite Technologies in Austria – will install the 2-component injection molding system with turning plate and 17,000 kN clamping force in 2019. This machine setup is the basis for further developments of efficient inline-combination technologies using different kinds of polymer performance materials.

The ENGEL injection molding system will enable innovative combinations of already established fiber-reinforced plastics (FRP) processes and the development of new individual processes. The focus is on increasing resource efficiency in lightweight production. With the new equipment, new research and development initiatives can explore the more efficient use of materials, which are eventually the key to the mass production of lightweight components. The research will address multi-material systems, continuous processes, process chains as well as self-optimizing processes.

Dr.-Ing. Michael Emonts, Managing Director of the Aachen Center for Integrative Lightweight Production (AZL) is looking forward to realizing new innovative lightweight production process with the new injection molding system: “This new injection molding system offers us as specialists for lightweight production technology in cooperation with the injection molding experts of the Institute of Plastics Processing – the IKV – the opportunity to establish hybrid processes for industrial lightweight applications. The system will expand our existing machinery in the AZL Technical Center and will be available as an important platform for lightweight production research at RWTH Aachen University.”

Being a Partner of the AZL, ENGEL has already been working closely with the AZL for many years as a Partner Company of the AZL Partner Network. Dr. Stefan Engleder, CEO of the ENGEL Group, emphasizes the importance of close collaboration with technical universities and especially with the AZL: “The AZL provides great conditions for industry-related research activities in the field of lightweight composites as it is characterized by a strong interdisciplinary approach. It benefits from the great infrastructure and the collaboration with well-known institutes of the RTWH Aachen University. ENGEL is looking forward to working together with the AZL on developing efficient lightweight composite mass production processes.”

In addition to the numerous composite and lightweight equipment at the RWTH Aachen Campus, the AZL Technical Center comprises large-scale equipment for the development of processes for lightweight production, such as a composite press from Schuler Pressen GmbH with 18,000 kN clamping force.

Archroma, a global leader in color and specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, will be presenting its innovative denim solutions for manufacturers and brands at DenimsandJeans India 2018, on August 1 & 2, in Bangalore, India.

Just two months after the DenimsandJeans Vietnam show, Archroma will again showcase its unique combination of technologies for denim effects and colors, from fiber to finish, from the authentic roots of indigo to the most innovative and eco-advanced solutions.

At the India show, Archroma’s expert team will also present its coatings and washing solutions aiming at bringing denim creativity to a whole new dimension.
Visitors at the booth will be able to see an “illustration collection” of exciting indigo casts.

DENISOL®, BRINGING INDIGO BACK TO ITS ROOTS - NOW ANILINE-FREE*
Archroma’s Denisol® range is a newly developed pre-reduced liquid indigo solution that is manufactured in Archroma’s award winning ‘zero liquid discharge’ manufacturing plant in Pakistan. Denisol® Indigo 30 liq is compliant with major official eco-standards and requirements from retailers, brands and fashion leading companies and helps to produce fabrics suitable for current eco-labeling such as bluesign® and GOTS.

Responding to demands for a non-toxic alternative to the dyes that are used for the iconic and traditional indigo blue that consumers associate with denim and jeans, Archroma just announced the upcoming new Denisol® Pure Indigo 30.

ADVANCED DENIM, TOWARDS WATERLESS DENIM DYEING
Consider this: The water needed to produce one pair of jeans is said to be ~ 11'000 liters(1). With approximately 167 million pairs of jeans produced monthly(2), that is 1,837,000,000,000 liters of water consumed every month in the process!
Based on the Denim-Ox and Pad/Sizing-Ox dyeing processes, Archroma’s multi-awarded ADVANCED DENIM, dyeing technology allows savings of up to 92% in water, 87% in cotton waste and 30% in energy, compared to a conventional denim dyeing process.

The technology has been adopted by brands like Patagonia and received the prestigious 2012 ICIS Innovation Award and Innovation with Best Environmental Benefit Award.

• Optisul® C, “soft colors” made easy
  With Optisul® C dyes, denim manufacturers can produce soft denim colors in continuous dyeing processes, as well as on coating and printing. Optisul® C affinity-free, sulfide-free dyes can easily be combined with each other to create garments suitable for wash-down treatments in a wide array of easily achievable and reproducible soft colors.
  They are suitable for GOTS and bluesign® approval.
• Diresul® RDT Ocean Blues, ocean-themed bright sulfur blue dyes
  Archroma’s Diresul® RDT Ocean Blues are a collection of vibrant, ocean-themed bright sulfur blue dyes. These best-in-class dyes and their auxiliaries bring out the best of indigo, improve workability, dyeing consistency and process safety.
  They can be combined with Denisol® Indigo 30 liq in bottoming/topping manufacturing routes for avant-garde blue styles.
• Diresul® blacks & greys, a cosmos of greys and deep black and navies
  Archroma’s dye portfolio of conventional and black Diresul® specialties allow to create a universe of greys and deep black and navies. From superficial to solid blacks for both extreme wash-down and stay black effects.

EARTHCOLORS, TRACEABLE FROM NATURE TO FASHION
The EarthColors patented range of “biosynthetic” dyes for cotton and cellulose-based fabrics, which are made from waste left over by the agricultural and herbal industry after extraction, such as almond shells, saw palmetto, or rosemary leaves. The latest NFC technology used on the end-product hangtags enables transparency and traceability through the supply chain to consumers.
The EarthColors allow to produce the earth tones that are coming strong: red, brown and green colors. They have been adopted by brands such as Patagonia, Kathmandu and G-Star, and won an OutDoor Industry Award 2017.

COATING, A WHOLE UNIVERSE OF COLORS AND EFFECTS
Archroma’s dye and chemical specialties portfolio allows to create exciting colors and effects using coating applications, from exclusive sulfur dyes and pigment specialties that help highlighting the indigo look, to functional finishes that give performance to denim garments - using water-based, formaldehyde-free or ultra-low formaldehyde polymers.

SOLUTION PACKAGES FOR SUSTAINABILITY
Archroma recently introduced the ONE WAY Process Simulator, the last update of a calculation tool that supports its ONE WAY Sustainability Service introduced back in 2012. The new, online software can be used to mimic and compare products and processes, and thus calculate the ecological and economical profile of the final end-product.
Archroma’s portfolio of ZDHC MRSL-compliant chemicals and dyes is integrated into the ONE WAY calculation tool since 2013.
“It is time to make denim in a whole different way; denim that brings together innovation, sustainability and creativity,” says Anjani Prasad, Head of Sales India, Archroma. “Brands around the globe are exploring how to make fashion in a cleaner and safer way, and Archroma has the solutions to do just that, to create denim with a soul.”
Visit Archroma at DenimsandJeans India 2018 at t at Hotel Lalit, Bangalore, India, on August 1 & 2, 2018.
* Below limits of detection

(1) Arjen Y. Hoekstra, The Water Footprint of Modern Consumer Society
(2) American Chemical Society, www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2012/06/120619123753.htm.
Denisol®, Optisul®, Diresul® are trademarks of Archroma registered in many countries.
© 2018 Archroma