From the Sector

• Metallic sheen and concealed safety

Net-like structures, metallic sheen, concealed safety, naturally-warming fabrics with Nilit® Heat yarn made of coffee charcoal and PFC-free bio technologies based on renewable raw materials are just some of the highlights of the Schoeller 2019/20 Winter Collection, developed and produced amidst the mountains of Switzerland. Color effects create metallic surfaces on functional textiles and exciting multi-colored looks with richly contrasting reverses.

METALLIC SHINE

The new schoeller®-spirit qualities provide grand style in winter 2019/20. The softly-flowing warp-knitted goods play with transparency and metallic looks. In forest green, silver or copper and aluminized reverse, this season’s  showpieces are also reflective. This play with light continues in the crosswise elastic lightweight with a reflecting dot design. This cool print with concealed safety in two-tone silver grey or khaki green ensures outstanding visibility at twilight. Additional water repellence is provided by the fluorocarbon-free ecorepel® Bio technology, based on renewable raw materials.

WARM FABRICS

The new schoeller®-dryskin qualities ensure a pleasantly warm body climate in winter 2019/20. Thanks to the insulating Nilit® Heat yarn on the interior, which captures and stores the body’s own heat, these fabrics warm the wearer naturally. This unique yarn produced using coffee charcoal posseses antibacterial properties and offers maximum clothing comfort at winter temperatures. The focused pants and jacket qualities in a variety of weights in fresh mandarin, deep aubergine, petrol or light stone also impress with their high abrasion resistance, ideal moisture management and reliable water repellence thanks to PFC-free ecorepel® Bio technology. The same natural heat retention is offered by the cozy schoeller®-naturetec in washable, mulesing-free wool and ecorepel® Bio in dark petrol, navy or rust.

MULTI COLOR

In addition to sustainable fabrics and technologies, winter 2019/20 is dominated by multi-coloration. The highly-elastic multi-colored schoeller®-prestige and schoeller®-dryskinqualities lead to completely new color effects and nuances. Ever-changing, exciting effects result from beautiful mossy greens and dark blue and grey variations to burnt henna and chocolate color combinations. Always with a contrasting color on the reverse, they are real eye-catchers which of course also impress in functional terms. In addition, the schoeller®-dryskin qualities are finished with the PFC-free ecorepel® Bio technology.

Nilit® Heat is a registered trademark of NILIT Ltd.

Intertextile Shanghai concluded its 2017 Autumn Edition on 13 October as the strong business results and praise from the worldwide participants once again affirmed its reputation as the world’s most effective apparel fabrics and accessories trade event in terms of boosting sales and product sourcing. Knowing the fair covered an all-encompassing range of products that cater to all sourcing needs, 77,883 buyers travelled from 102 countries and regions (2016: 73,927, 90 countries and regions) to Shanghai to source. This year, Hong Kong, India, Indonesia, Italy, Japan, Korea, Russia, Taiwan, the UK and the US were the top 10 visitor countries and regions after Mainland China.

Meanwhile, a total of 4,538 exhibitors from 32 countries and regions (2016: 4,553, 29 countries and regions) also enjoyed the surge of business potential brought by this large number of high-quality trade buyers. The strong line-up of exhibitors, including 10 country and region pavilions – France, Germany, Hong Kong, India, Japan, Korea, Milano Unica (Italy), Pakistan, Taiwan and Thailand – as well as 10 Group Pavilions organised by foremost industry leaders like DuPont, Hyosung, INVISTA and Lenzing, presented a full-spectrum of innovative and fashion offerings in 11 halls across 276,000 sqm (gross) exhibition area, an increase of nearly 6% compared to 2016.

While the nature of textile trade fairs has evolved over recent years, exhibitors’ successful results at this year’s Intertextile Shanghai shows that it is still the industry’s most effective order-writing and business development trade show because it remains the event where the global industry gathers to make purchasing decisions. As a result, many exhibitors see the fair as their business growth engine, and reported positive outlooks for sales after the fair.

Exhibitor opinions
 Ms Erika Jimenez, Development and Purchasing Department, Luca Cuccolini, Spain (SalonEurope)
“A few years ago we decided to explore the Chinese market. Knowing that Intertextile Shanghai is the most comprehensive fair of its kind in Asia, there was no doubt that this would be the fair to expose our brand. Throughout the years we have been satisfied with the visitor flow and business opportunities, especially this year. There has been a good flow of a diverse range of buyers visiting our booth, and we’ve already met with abundant potential buyers on the first day. Our objective is still to get our brand known to local buyers, and by looking at the progress in the first two days, we are even expecting to get orders later on.”

Mr Jean Denerolle, General Manager, Dormeuil, France (Premium Wool Zone)
“There has been lots of visitors coming to our booth on the first two days. Joining Intertextile Shanghai is an effective ways for us to develop the Chinese market. We are happy that the organiser referred a VIP buyer to us. Overall, we succeeded in receiving orders and promoting our brands, so I am pleased with the result this year.”
Mr Max Deery, Global Director, Print Stories Ltd, (for Amanda Kelly Ltd), UK (Verve for Design)
“We are satisfied with the results this year. The Verve for Design zone is well organised, and it’s a busier year compared to last. After day one, we’ve already found more than 10 potential buyers, both old and new customers. We’ve participated in other fairs in Europe as well, and I would say Intertextile Shanghai is in line with these shows, and busier than we expected.”

Mr Luca Maderna, New Age srl, Italy (Verve for Design)
“It’s our 10th year exhibiting in Intertextile. Given the large scale, we can always find new contacts here, and it’s also a great opportunity for us to present our new collection to our regular customers.”
Mr Ederhard Ganns, Managing Director, Union Knopf (HK) Ltd, Germany
“Our target clients are mainly brand owners and resellers. I have successfully met with them and have some promising contacts. We have also developed some new connections with both domestic and overseas customers. Intertextile Shanghai is no doubt the world’s number one show.”

Ms Kang Nan Hee, Assistant Manager, R&D Textile Co Ltd, Korea (Korea Pavilion)
“This is our 10th year at Intertextile Shanghai. Every year, we participate in both the spring and autumn fairs and they have never let us down. Not only can we meet numerous new buyers in each edition, we can also keep pace with the ever-changing market trends in the fabric industry. Besides that, in terms of visitor flow, this fair has always been the strongest. Take this year’s fair as an example. In our estimation, we have already received enquiries from almost 300 buyers and agents on the first two days, which has exceeded our expectations. Therefore, we are expecting some 400 orders in total by end of the fair.”

Mr Taku Ito, Manager, Sojitz Vancet (Shanghai) Trading Co Ltd, Japan (Japan Pavilion)
“We exhibit at this show to find new customers and sales channels in China. We’ve been joining the show for a while now, and we continued this edition as we can always meet new customers – I mean, really ‘new’. This year, there were about 400 companies that visited our booth. It’s also interesting that we are getting more online apparel shops visiting us lately.”

Ms Susan Hon, B2B Marketing Communication Director, North Asia, INVISTA Co Ltd, Hong Kong (Functional Lab & Group Pavilion organiser)
“With the help of Intertextile Shanghai – the most well-known platform in the industry – we can promote our newly launched products more efficiently and enhance the influence of our brand. Our booths were packed with visitors over the three days, with many of them high-quality buyers. Intertextile has always been one of the most important trade fairs for us because of its strength in attracting a wide range of buyers, including an unrivalled number of market-leading brands that no other fairs can offer.”

Mr Martin Yang, Marketing Manager, Nilit Nylon Technologies (Suzhou) Co Ltd, Israel (Functional Lab)
“Our management is satisfied with the results as this is where we can boost our business and sales. On the first day, we’ve already met with nearly 20 potential buyers that are very likely to develop into new orders after the fair. The most attractive trait of Intertextile Shanghai is its ability in gathering large numbers of trade buyers. More importantly, the majority of them are quality buyers who aren’t only our target customers but also keen to place orders. This fair is seen by the industry as the major platform to source as it includes more industry leading suppliers, raw material providers, fabric mills and garment manufacturers compared to other similar fairs, and this is why we are here.”

Mr Syed Kamran Shah, Marketing Manager, Soorty Enterprises (Pvt) Ltd, Pakistan (Beyond Denim)
“Our objectives are to establish connections with Chinese brands and manufacturers, as well as to learn buyers’ expectations in this market. We are happy with the visitor numbers, and Intertextile Shanghai is where buyers really come to make purchasing decisions. Buyers came to talk to us and run tests on our fabrics afterwards, and usually within 2-3 months’ time, we will receive orders. We also like the idea of the Beyond Denim hall as it ensures the effectiveness of gathering and getting in touch with our target buyers.”

Mr Štěpán Kučera, Managing Director, Preciosa Components, China (Accessories Vision)
“This has been Preciosa’s third consecutive appearance at the autumn edition of Intertextile Shanghai, where we continue to see an increase in attendance by our target customers, namely high-end fashion brands from both the Chinese and international markets. Among the 200-plus buyers we met on the first two days of the fair were domestic fashion brands, sourcing managers of overseas brands, garment producers, as well as OEMs & ODMs, and we are more than satisfied with the results. Compared to similar fairs in which we have participated, Intertextile has a stronger focus on sourcing and manufacturing. International brands tend to send their sourcing teams, while local manufacturers and vendors also source here.”

Ms Shanshan Lu, Client Manger, Beijing Ecocert Certification Centre Co Ltd, China (All About Sustainability)
“As Intertextile Shanghai is the largest fair of its kind, we can always find our target customers here which are manufacturers from the Greater China area and the Asia Pacific region. The All About Sustainability zone has enhanced the exhibiting effectiveness as it creates a strong theme that attracts the right visitors to our booth. I think the visitor flow is stronger than last year. On day 1 alone, we received enquiries from over 10 potential customers which included old and new accounts. Moreover, by sharing our certifications in the seminar, our brand got further promoted in the fair. All in all, we are very pleased with this year’s outcome and very likely will return again next year.”
Worldwide buyers impressed with the unparalleled range of sourcing options on offer
While the exhibitors highly valued the fair’s ability in attracting quality, genuine buyers from around the world, these buyers were pleased to find all categories of apparel fabrics and accessories products from the entire industry under one roof.

Buyer opinions
Mr Johnny Lau, Head of Material Management, Quiksilver Asia Sourcing Ltd, Hong Kong
“The strongest trait of Intertextile Shanghai is its scale and aptitude in gathering the entire industry in one place. I believe no matter which sector of the industry or market you belong to – suiting, casual wear or ladieswear; high-end or fast fashion – you are ensured to find the right suppliers here. The fair houses a full-spectrum of suppliers which ease the sourcing process for purchasing departments like us. To maintain brand competitiveness, it is getting more important for us nowadays to know about suppliers and manufacturers from around the world, so we were also impressed with the fair’s internationalism and had unexpected returns from this trip.”

Mr Luis Alfonso Yepes Londono, Manager, Yetex SAS, Columbia
“Among all trade shows, Intertextile Shanghai is the most influential one for my business, even compared to the European shows. Not only can I find local suppliers, but the fair literally puts brands from around the globe under one roof. This morning I discussed with three local companies that match my interest. Their fabrics were of good quality and competitive pricing, so I will soon make a decision and place orders.”

Ms Zhou Jie, General Manager, Shenzhen New Look Fashion Co Ltd, China
“Intertextile Shanghai is a comprehensive trade fair, and what’s unique about this fair is its unparalleled ability in gathering both domestic and premium international apparel fabrics and accessories suppliers. Therefore, the sourcing options in this fair cater to all market demands. I can say Intertextile is a fair that all fashion brands can’t miss as one can definitely find all kids of materials here. We sent over 10 colleagues from the sourcing and design departments to this year’s fair and sourced around 80% of the fabrics we need for the next season’s collection from about eight exhibitors.”

The next Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics is the Spring Edition, held from 14 – 16 March 2018.
Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics is co-organised by Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd; the Sub-Council of Textile Industry, CCPIT; and the China Textile Information Centre. For more details on this fair, please visit: www.intertextileapparel.com. To find out more about all Messe Frankfurt textile fairs worldwide, please visit: www.texpertise-network.com.

At JEC Asia 2017 (1-3 November), the international textile group CHOMARAT will receive a JEC Innovation Award in the Sports & Leisure category for its C-PLY™ Hexagonal with visual & structural stitching. “CHOMARAT provided NEILPRYDE and COBRA with its C-PLY™ Non-Crimp Fabric (NCF) technology to help them manufacture an innovative windfoil board, and we are very proud to be rewarded with our partners”, says Pascal JOUBERT DES OUCHES, Sports Equipment Market Director at CHOMARAT.

C-PLYTM HEXAGONAL COMBINES NEW CARBON LOOK AND PERFORMANCE

The unusual stitching of this carbon multiaxial NCF reinforcement combines visual appeal and mechanical performance. C-PLY™ Hexagonal is an innovative carbon NCF with a unique stitching yarn designed to be visible within the resin and to capture resin colour pigments. The stitching yarn also improves fracture toughness compared to standard NCF.
“We researched the right stitching yarn among multiple options before coming up with a tailor-made yarn solution. C-PLY™ Hexagonal provides a unique honeycomb carbon design that appeals to end users”, adds Philippe SANIAL, R&T Director at CHOMARAT.

A WIDE RANGE, FROM AERONAUTICS AND AUTOMOTIVE TO SPORTS & LEISURE APPLICATIONS

Originally dedicated to the design of aerospace and automotive parts, the concept is now successfully applied to the sports & leisure sector. In this innovative windfoil board construction, tows are spread to create thin plies, which are then stitched with precise ±45° angles. The C-PLY™ NCF structure respects the fibre alignment and is optimized in terms of fibre angles and ply weights, thanks to unique spreading technology. The result is a leading-edge carbon NCF reinforcement allowing structural design benefits, premium surface quality and overall parts cost savings. “Bringing a new carbon visual signature for our high-performance C-PLY™ range of NCF is a key to boost retail sales in the whole sports & consumers product industry”, concludes Pascal JOUBERT DES OUCHES.

As a combined effort of the CSI color team and DyStar’s technical experts, DyStar and CSI are launching the first 2 issues of the Sustainable Color and Trend magazine with Cadira® color palettes.

This new magazine inspires Designers and Color Managers by offering palettes and color combinations that are Eco-friendly and Inspired by Nature. Not only does the magazine include a wide range of color palettes, but also color validation in CSI’s Relative Color Popularity (RCP) information as well as sustainable dye recipes that have been formulated based on the Cadira resource optimization process.

The Cadira Concept is a module in DyStar’s Resource Efficiency program. It helps to considerably shorten lead times and reduce water, waste and energy consumption. Cadira Concepts have been developed for different substrates and dyeing procedures. This launch focuses on both reactive dyeing of cotton as well as polyester & recycled polyester dyeing.

The reactive-issue – Inspired by Nature – offers color palettes with softer, muted tones, levels of neutrals and earthy shades of green. The recipes are based on DyStar Levafix® and Remazol® combined with Sera® chemicals for an optimized dyeing and wash-off process.

The Polyester issue offers more vibrant color options with saturated colors and brights for active wear and outdoor clothing and accessories. The recipes are based on Dianix® dyes and the dyeing process can be optimized by use of the Optidye® PES program.

“We are conscious about our environment so we wanted to create a magazine with an ecological color and optimized processes so that our customers can pick the right color that will help them reduce their environmental impact in the design process.” Says Ron Pedemonte, VP of Sales and Marketing Americas.

CSI will fcus more on color palettes with ecological dyes and low impact processes when offering color and trend information to customers in the future. More eco-friendly color palettes will be available very soon.

More information about CSI color trends and the Cadira process is available in the DyStar Website and CSI Website. www.dystar.com / www.csicolors.com

Among the winners, the Gold Winner Award distinguishes further the EarthColors range - out of the 330 entries - as one of the most innovative products of the industry in what is one of the highlights of the OutDoor Show held in Friedrichshafen, Germany, until June 21, 2017.
EarthColors are Archroma's patent-pending new method of creating warm ternary shades from nature. These high performance dyes are synthesized from natural waste products of the agriculture and herbal industries, such as almond shells and rosemary leaves, replacing the oil-based raw materials typically used in dyestuff manufacture. Earthcolors are available in a range of six dyes, covering a palette of natural shades. They are fully traceable from the source to the shop – thanks to NCF chip attached on the clothing hangtag.
Visitors at Archroma's booth (A4-306) will also be able to discover why company’s such as Kathmandu and Flocus who have selected EarthColors. The technology will also be on display in a special exhibition and on the official website of the OutDoor show.
“We are extremely proud to receive one of the most prominent Awards in the outdoor industry”, commented Nuria Estape, Head of Marketing & Promotion for Archroma’s Brand & Performance Textile Specialties business, after the ceremony. “The OutDoor Industry Award will surely help us convince more brands and retailers to explore and adopt more nature-friendly solutions from Archroma.”

 Patagonia’s Clean Color Collection is a new capsule collection that Patagonia has just released in the last days of April. The products in the collection have been colored with dyes made from natural sources, including, along with other supply sources, EarthColors by Archroma, a range of dyes synthesized from agricultural waste.
Many of Patagonia’s synthetic dyes use less water, energy and CO2 when compared with conventional processes, however Patagonia is always looking for ways to do less environmental harm. The company, who already collaborates with Archroma for the Patagonia Denim collection based on Archroma’s Advanced Denim, therefore contacted Archroma to have a closer look at Archroma’s EarthColors dyes. The selected EarthColors dyes are the gorgeous Palmetto Green and Citrus Brown colors made respectively from non-edible palmetto green parts and bitter orange peels left over from agriculture industry or pharmaceutical extraction.

EarthColors is a line of plant-based dyes, sourced from up to 100 percent renewable resources. The colors change and fade over time, which is part of what makes these dyes unique.
“We are so proud that, once again, Patagonia has chosen Archroma’s eco-advanced dyeing technologies for their newest sustainable clothing endeavor,” comments Paul Cowell, Head of Brand Marketing in Archroma’s Brand & Performance Textile Specialties business. “We at Archroma are committed to challenge the status quo in the deep belief that we can make our industry sustainable. Because it’s our nature! Trail blazers like Patagonia bring us invaluable support in accelerating sustainable concepts in the textile value chain. Together we are showing the apparel industry the way to go, one collection at a time.”

“These products reflect Archroma’s commitment to delivering responsible products and solutions, and underscore our key principle as a company that we continuously challenge the status quo in the deep belief that we can make our industry sustainable,” stated Miquel Vila, Head of Technical Service, Brand & Performance Textile Specialties, EMEA. At the booth, Archroma will highlight in particular the following solutions and innovations:

COLOR
Archroma will be displaying its Printofix TF high-performance pigment preparations for outdoor applications. These are mainly suited for synthetic fabrics that are specifically developed for sunshades, camping tents, umbrellas and industrial applications where other dyes cannot meet the very high requirements of light and weather fastness. Printofix TF pigment preparations are easy to handle and allow the creation of colors that can resist light, weather, ozone or heat.

FIRE PROTECTION
Archroma made a commitment back in 2011 to use only non-halogenated technologies for its global range of Pekoflam products. This range is ideally suited to help customers face today’s ecological challenges and fulfill ever stricter safety regulations, regardless of the application. The company’s non-halogenated portfolio includes select products that are assessed for compliance to labels such as GOTS or OEKO-TEX(1) Standard 100 and that are in line with today’s global requirements for industrial and consumer safety.

REPELLENCY & RELEASE
Archroma's innovative next-generation fluorochemical alternative is PFOA-free* C6 Nuva N supporting the switch away from long-chain fluorotelomer products that may contain PFOA (perfluorooctanoic acid). These products provide long-lasting and excellent repellency and release effects, are easy to handle and non-sensitive regarding compatibility with other finishing chemicals. They allow covering the full spectrum of repellency and release needs in technical textile applications.

They also can be combined with finishing specialties, such as Pekoflam fire retardants, Nuva N and Smartrepel release and repellence solutions, and Sanitized(2) antimicrobial products. These products allow for more sustainable, tailor-made coating solutions for applications such as technical textiles, automotive, nonwoven, personal protective equipment and sportswear. With its diverse selection of advanced, sustainable and customizable solutions, Archroma is ideally positioned as the system supplier of choice for textile mills and nonwoven manufacturers. As Miquel Vila puts it: “Visit us at Techtextil to learn more about products that offer cutting-edge functionality while also being safer and more environmentally friendly. It's our nature!”