From the Sector

• The Green Revolution: How Microfactories Can Change the Face of Fashion by Mark Sollman, Product Manager EMEA, Mimaki Europe

With the all-important COP26 Climate Change Conference having taken centre stage in November, there is no time like the present for the fashion world to rally together in stepping up sustainability efforts and getting carbon emissions under control. Globally, the fashion industry is now estimated to account for around 10 percent of greenhouse gas emissions and 20 percent of wastewater , making the pursuit of greener production methods more pertinent than ever before. Thankfully, we are seeing a new era of production enter the fashion arena, with the increasing emergence of technologically advanced, highly automated microfactories.

Along with reducing unnecessary waste through on-demand production, microfactories have a smaller ecological footprint than traditional garment production and require no water use during the production process, making it not only a faster solution, but a greener one too.

Last year’s FESPA saw Mimaki team up with fashion designer Carolina Guzman to bring her designs to life in real time at the show, setting up its own working microfactory live on-site to take her designs from screen to garment within just a day. Guzman’s designs were created using Mimaki’s TS100-1600 Sublimation Printer, before being transferred to textile, digitally cut and finally pieced together. Devised with a string of ethical and environmental objectives threaded throughout, the microfactory also exclusively utilised eco-friendly Greentex fabric, and any remaining material was donated to Sheltersuit: a wind- and waterproof coat that can be transformed into a sleeping bag, which is provided free of charge to homeless people and refugees.

Through working with a number of strategic partners – including transfer printing expert, Klieverik; paper solutions specialist, Neenah Coldenhove; and digital cutting equipment provider, Summa – Mimaki was able to produce a collection of unique, high-quality garments live on the stand during the tradeshow, demonstrating to visitors from more than 100 countries some of the key reasons that microfactories seem set to change the future of fashion…

Unparalleled speed and versatility
Where traditionally, apparel manufacturing has centred on a production chain model of sourcing materials and producing garments in bulk, microfactories are now enabling on-demand, on-location production, making it possible to create everything from unique, one-off pieces and samples right through to entire product lines – all at unprecedented speeds. This means greater flexibility and customisation, enabling designers to modify or update designs and respond to market trends as they occur.

Simplified supply chains and minimised risk
The microfactory setup brings production in-house and on-demand, minimising the cost of not only storing stock, but also of shipping it and responsibly disposing of unsold items. Where recent geopolitical events have highlighted the fragility of global supply chains, microfactories offer a unique independence from these systems, empowering garment manufacturers to future-proof their businesses, become less reliant on external systems and suppliers, and reduce the risk of disruptions.

A boosted bottom line and a greener future
Facilitating savings in a whole line of resources, from physical storage and production space to time and energy, microfactories ultimately have the potential to significantly increase profitability for garment manufacturers, with the additional benefit of being easily scalable as production increases. Perhaps even more compelling, however, are the environmental considerations. Demonstrated on a small scale through Mimaki’s recent project, the environmental benefits inherent to microfactory production will have an even greater impact as it becomes more prolific and commonplace throughout the fashion world, with the potential to effect meaningful environmental change as adoption increases in the years to come.

Maruti Printing transformed its business as the first printer in India to adopt the latest LED-UV curing technology from AMS Spectral UV, a Baldwin Technology Company. The hybrid system, which includes traditional UV modules, has been in production for nearly two years and has significantly expanded the offset printer’s capabilities for its customers, including adding the ability to print on all types of plastic substrates.

Not only does Maruti have the distinction of being an LED-UV trailblazer in India, but it also is first in the market to upgrade a high-speed, high-performance Heidelberg Speed Master 72F+L six-color printer with coating tower—which prints up to 15,000 sheets per hour—with AMS Spectral UV’s high-power AMS XP9-I Series LED-UV and P3 Smart UV curing modules.

Established in 1986 and headquartered in Ahmedabad, Gujarat, Maruti serves customers throughout India, providing offset printing of scratch cards, banners, booklets, brochures, calendars, danglers, pamphlets, posters, stickers and envelopes.

In January 2020, Maruti took delivery of two AMS XP9-I Series LED-UV modules to cure colors in the interdecks. The modules are ideal for the highest-speed curing situations that require consistent peak intensity to the substrate, which is the case for Maruti’s offset printing standard of perfection with every cure.

To cure ink, as well as a growing variety of LED coatings, Baldwin’s AMS Spectral UV modules can be located after print units, or in the press delivery after the coater. When inks and coatings are cured with LED-UV, they become instantly dry via photopolymerization, allowing for printing on any substrate, including plastics and metallized stocks. Plus, work can be immediately finished and sent to the bindery once it comes off the press, without the need for heat, spray powder or drying time.

In addition, Maruti took delivery of two P3 Smart UV curing modules for installation at the end of the press to cure any type of UV coating and expand the company’s scope of coating compatibility to general UV coatings in order to offer its customers the widest range of UV printed choices in the Indian market.

The P3 Smart UV housings are completely liquid-cooled to ensure safe, consistent performance and increased uptime, and modules feature a universal design, so that any unit can fit any print unit location. P3 modules can be changed, inspected and cleaned quickly and easily, without tools, and lamps slide and lock into place smoothly and securely.

The durability of the equipment and its chipset was a critical deciding factor in India’s climate. The latest-generation power-and-control cabinets are dust- and moisture-resistant, allowing them to withstand extreme heat and humidity, as well as powder and airborne contaminants, making the equipment ideal for operation in stressful conditions anywhere in the world. AMS Spectral UV’s latest generation of LED chips, designed for the highest-intensity curing applications, enable the curing of LED inks and coatings at record-setting speeds. They are built with resilient components, and the semi-conductor components are sealed, which allows the chips to work in a variety of rugged environments. Additionally, integrated circuits incorporated into the design electronically protect the LEDs and the entire system.

• FM Global ‘Highly Protected Risk’ Achievement Award for Komen site, Belgium
• Completes HPR Award status for B.I.G. YARNS’ European production facilities
• Fifth plant in Beaulieu International Group to attain HPR Award

B.I.G. YARNS is proud to announce the attainment of a FM Global ‘Highly Protected Risk’ Achievement Award (HPR Award) for its yarn production facility in Komen, Belgium.

The HPR Award is assigned by insurer FM Global, Beaulieu International Group’s insurance partner of the past five years in its on-going dedication to property loss prevention. A worldwide team of engineers focuses on providing assistance and protection of B.I.G.’s assets, helping the Group to achieve a higher level of risk protection. The FM Global assessment considers implementation of measures to protect against fire, natural hazard, mechanical breakdown of machinery and also cyber risks. The local team worked diligently over the last five years to implement all the FM Global recommendations.

Emmanuel Colchen, General Manager B.I.G. YARNS, comments: “Achieving the prestigious HPR Award recognizes the commitment of the teams at B.I.G. YARNS and the wider Beaulieu International Group to proactive risk management and contingency planning to ensure the safety and protection of our workplaces. Safeguarding property is a key element in enabling us to provide business continuity for our customers in demanding sectors like automotive, commercial contract and residential flooring.”

B.I.G. YARNS’ Komen production facility is the fifth plant at B.I.G. to receive HPR status - the highest level a plant can achieve for fire risk prevention and protection.

The Yarns division of Beaulieu International Group achieved HPR status for its other European site in Comines, France, in 2017.

• Order intake of CHF 975.3 million (first half of 2020: CHF 250.7 million).
• Sales of CHF 400.5 million (first half of 2020: CHF 254.9 million).
• EBIT of CHF 9.0 million and net profit of CHF 5.3 million

The first half of 2021 has been characterized by a strong market recovery in combination with a regional shift in demand for new machinery and systems. Rieter anticipates a normalization of the demand for new systems in the coming months. The company assumes that spinning mills will continue to work at high-capacity levels.

For the full year, Rieter expects sales to be above CHF 900 million.

The realization of sales from the order backlog continues to be associated with risks in light of bottlenecks in material deliveries and freight capacities as well as the ongoing pandemic in key markets for Rieter.

In recent years, Rieter has implemented its strategy based on the cornerstones of innovation leadership, strengthening the components, spare parts and services businesses, and adjusting cost structures.

Crisis management in the pandemic year of 2020 was aimed at protecting employees, fulfilling customer commitments, ensuring liquidity, and also strengthening the market position for the time after the pandemic as well as retaining the ability to benefit from the incipient market recovery.

The focus for 2021 remains on the implementation of this strategy. The measures for crisis management relating to the protection of employees and fulfilling customer commitments are still in effect in countries that continue to be affected by the pandemic.

The Rieter Board of Directors has approved the implementation of the CAMPUS project. The Rieter CAMPUS comprises a customer and technology center as well as an administration building at the Winterthur location. It will make an important contribution to the implementation of the innovation strategy and to the enhancement of Rieter’s technology leadership position.