From the Sector

Rice University mechanical engineer Vanessa Sanchez is developing knitted structures in which sensing, movement and mechanical behaviour are programmed into the textile rather than attached as separate components. Her project, “Programmable 3D-Knitted Soft Robotic Textiles for Human-Centered Mobility,” has received a Toyota Programmable System Innovation Fellowship.

Rice points to applications including vehicle seats that reshape around occupants, garments that assist walking and soft safety systems capable of responding to impending impacts.

The work uses knitting as a manufacturing architecture. By varying yarns, stitch geometry and local structural behaviour, the textile can be designed to produce functions that conventional soft-robotic systems may achieve with separate sensors, actuators or rigid elements.

Three-dimensional knitting is particularly important because form can be created during manufacture rather than assembled from multiple flat components. That approach could reduce seams and interfaces while retaining the softness and conformity expected from textiles.

Sanchez will use the fellowship to develop the programmable structures further and explore mobility-oriented applications.

Kappahl is launching its Autumn 2026 campaign across all markets on 16 September. Built around the existing “We Are Family” platform, the campaign presents a wardrobe of pieces intended to be easy to combine and relevant beyond short trend cycles.

The assortment spans womenswear, XLNT and menswear, with knitwear, denim, tailoring, lace and outerwear. The coat has a specific heritage role, linking the current collection to the company’s origins in Gothenburg in 1953, when founder Per-Olof Ahl opened a store focused on coats.

Editorial relevance: Medium – a current brand-positioning and retail story supported by a product capsule.
s.Oliver has launched a new hero campaign, “Casual Since Forever,” featuring Heidi Klum meeting a younger version of herself from the 1990s. The concept uses the time shift to reinforce the brand’s positioning around enduring casual style.

The campaign is accompanied by a limited-edition vintage capsule that reinterprets 1990s references through casual basics and vintage-inspired designs. The pieces are being sold online and in selected s.Oliver stores, turning the campaign narrative into an immediate product and retail activation.

Established fashion brands increasingly use archive aesthetics and cultural nostalgia not only for communication but as a direct product-development and traffic-driving mechanism.

Indorama Ventures is supplying fabrics woven with deja™ recycled polyester yarn to Thai label KH Editions. Two looks and accessories from the ten-look Spring/Summer 2027 collection will be shown in New York on 15 September during New York Fashion Week.

The collaboration builds on Indorama Ventures’ RECO programme, launched in 2011 and expanded into RECO Collective in 2023. The initiative combines recycled materials and industry support with emerging designers, aiming to demonstrate that circular inputs can meet the quality and aesthetic requirements of internationally presented fashion.

For the wider value chain, the project is a useful example of material innovation being connected to design, brand building and market access rather than remaining a stand-alone recycling story. Commercial scaling will ultimately depend on consistent quality, available volumes and the ability of recycled yarns to work within established fabric and garment production.

Hamburg Textile Week will present 14 projects from Germany, the Netherlands and Sweden from 1 to 11 October 2026 under the theme “Stoffe mit Zukunft” – Fabrics with a Future. The program focuses on new materials, processes and technologies, including textile energy systems, bio-based materials and interactive fabrics.

Projects range from SkySails kites that generate electricity from high-altitude wind and revoltech’s hemp-residue-based LOVR material to “Talking Textiles,” which translates touch into sound in real time. A Stühmer|Scholz exoskeleton uses textile components as the interface between body and technology. Other exhibits include a curtain woven with thin-film solar cells and work on bio-based dyeing.

Design Zentrum Hamburg is joined by the FABRIC – Future Fashion Lab for talks and workshops, with HAW Hamburg, AMD Akademie Mode & Design, Made auf Veddel and Greenpeace also participating. The format brings research, design, production and circular-design questions into one city-wide textile program.

Dahsheng Company has introduced MORPH, a materials platform that combines foams, textiles, films and functional layers into application-specific engineered systems. Brands can select surface materials, foam cores, colours, density, thickness, perforation and additional functional layers. The platform can be supplied as moulded components, sheet materials or fully integrated material systems, with footwear and sports applications a clear focus.

At the core are DSC’s DREAMCELL open-cell and DURAPONTEX closed-cell foam technologies. The company says more than 100 fabric and colour options are available for the top layer. Depending on the construction, the system can combine comfort, low weight, durability, breathability and impact protection. The emphasis therefore shifts from a single foam or textile to a coordinated multilayer material architecture.

For textile developers, the interface between softgoods and foam engineering is the most relevant aspect. Face fabrics, synthetic surfaces, films, foam and backing layers can be engineered together for the end use. That can streamline material development for brands, but it also raises questions around adhesion, long-term durability, recyclability and the end-of-life handling of heterogeneous multilayer constructions.

DSC does not publish standardised performance values, comparative test data or recycling routes for MORPH in the announcement. Performance and environmental claims should therefore be treated as manufacturer statements at this stage. MORPH integrates textile and polymer functional layers within a single materials-development platform.

DeSL has launched a Digital Product Passport solution built directly on product, material, supplier, quality and certification data managed in Product Lifecycle Management. The approach addresses a central challenge in emerging DPP requirements: companies need to combine information from multiple functions while retaining evidence of where data came from, how it was approved and whether supporting documentation remains valid.

Rather than creating a separate static passport record, DeSL generates the DPP from the current approved information held in PLM. Published information therefore remains connected to its underlying product and supplier records, version history and approvals. This can become particularly important when material composition, suppliers, certifications or quality information change during the product lifecycle.

The platform can combine product specifications, materials, supplier information, declarations, inspections and certifications. DeSL’s AI document intelligence is intended to analyse supporting documents, identify required information and expiry dates, and compare documentation with information maintained in PLM. Passports can be generated at the appropriate product level and delivered via QR codes, portals, retail systems and open APIs. Different audiences can receive different information while still drawing from the same governed product record.

For fashion and textile companies, the important shift is conceptual: DPP compliance becomes a master-data and governance challenge rather than simply a publishing task. The software announcement does not prove automatic compliance with every future regulatory requirement. It does, however, demonstrate a credible architecture in which product passports are generated from the same data used for product development, quality, supplier management and compliance.

At Booth 50, Eastman will present U.S.-produced Naia™ staple fibers and filament yarns for casualwear and activewear, supporting closer collaboration across the regional value chain.

As brands and retailers explore more diversified and responsive sourcing networks, the Naia™ from Eastman brand is strengthening its engagement with the textile and apparel value chain across the western hemisphere. From August 18 to 20, the company will participate for the first time in Apparel Sourcing Show Guatemala, a regional meeting point for apparel sourcing, manufacturing and nearshoring.

Produced in the United States, Naia™ offers regional manufacturers, brands and sourcing teams a cellulosic fiber option within the western hemisphere, creating opportunities for direct dialogue and new collaborations across the regional textile and apparel supply chain.

At Booth 50, Eastman will showcase both Naia™ staple fiber and filament yarn offerings for casualwear and activewear. A key focus of the presentation will be Naia™ On The Move, an application designed for active, everyday wear and built around Naia™ Renew staple fiber, made with 40% GRS-certified recycled materials* and 60% sustainably sourced wood pulp. The application demonstrates how Naia™ fiber blends can deliver next-to-skin comfort, breathability and a soft hand feel, together with moisture management and quick-dry performance. 

Developed to help garments stay fresh and comfortable throughout the day, Naia™ On The Move highlights the versatility needed for urban lifestyles, where changing temperatures, humidity and active routines call for adaptable apparel solutions. 

“The western hemisphere is becoming an increasingly important part of the sourcing conversation,” said Chad Doub, Global Segment Market Manager, Casual Wear and Home at Eastman. “Our participation in Guatemala gives us the opportunity to build new relationships and explore how Naia™ staple fibers and filament yarns can support innovative fabric developments for casualwear and activewear. We believe Naia™ On The Move, our application designed for this segment, is particularly well suited to the needs of the region and of the brands sourcing here, where versatility, comfort and performance are increasingly important.”

The Apparel Sourcing Show brings together businesses operating across the textile and apparel supply chain, including textiles, machinery, accessories, services and manufacturing. Eastman’s participation also builds on its engagement with the Americas Apparel Producers’ Network.

Following the 2026 pro:Americas Annual Conference in May, the Guatemala show represents another step in the company’s efforts to connect with businesses developing more integrated supply chains across the region.

Fashion for Good announced the launch of Project DW(O)R-X, a collaborative initiative designed to benchmark PFAS alternative durable water- and oil-repellent (DW(O)R) chemistries. Responding to growing market demand for alternatives to PFAS based finishes, the project aims to generate reliable, comparable data that can support informed sourcing decisions and the assessment of emerging chemistries.

Historically, durable water- and oil-repellent (DW(O)R) finishes have been used to help materials stay dry, clean and durable over time. Some formulations have contained per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS), a group of chemicals characterised by their high persistence. As a result, PFAS can remain in the environment for extended periods, bioaccumulate in humans and ecosystems, and have been associated with adverse health effects when exposure exceeds established thresholds. 

Despite the momentum towards PFAS-based alternatives, several challenges remain. First, many currently available alternatives do not match the oil repellency and long-term durability of PFAS-based finishes. Second, there is currently no unified approach to assessing performance, and existing protocols do not always reflect real-world use, making meaningful comparisons between solutions difficult. Third, current benchmarks no longer reflect the capabilities of today’s PFAS alternative solutions; updated benchmarks are needed to identify leading solutions and understand performance gaps, to help inform R&D and scale-up efforts. Finally, as the industry works to identify suitable alternatives, it is essential to carefully assess their environmental and health impacts to minimise the risk of regrettable substitution, where one problematic substance  is replaced by another without sufficient understanding.

To address these core challenges, Project DW(O)R-X will benchmark nine PFAS alternative solutions, ranging from early-stage innovations to established chemistries, across three dimensions: performance, environmental impact, and cost. To support this, project partners have developed a performance framework designed to better reflect real-world use by incorporating multi-condition testing and custom stains relevant to sportswear and outerwear, including soil, sunscreen, and sweat. 

This approach will enable the group to test a performance framework built on combining various standardised methods. The insights generated can help establish a common reference point for the industry: brands and mills can use it to inform internal decision-making, while chemical companies can rely on it to substantiate performance claims.

The project brings together an exciting group of industry stakeholders, including leading brands adidas and C&A, manufacturing partners Shahi Exports, Paradise Textiles, Positive Materials and Wujiang Fuhua Fabric Co., alongside technology providers Archroma, Daikin Chemicals Europe, Dow, Dryfiber, Jintex, Lamoral Coatings, Pulcra Chemicals, Rudolf, and vandeyk.tech. Performance testing will be conducted by SGS. 

“The challenge for the whole industry isn’t just phasing out PFAS: it’s ensuring we don’t replace it with something equally concerning that we understand less well. Right now, brands and mills are navigating this transition without updated benchmarks to compare these alternatives. Project DW(O)R-X gives them the data they need: performance testing that reflects real-world use, comprehensive impact assessment, and a better understanding of cost structures. This is how we enable informed decisions and genuine progress toward safer chemistry at scale.” Katrin Ley, Managing Director at Fashion for Good.
 
“We have not allowed the intentional use of PFAS in our products for many years. However, phasing out PFAS across the sector requires coordinated action across the value chain. A responsible transition depends on shared changes in manufacturing practices, supported by accessible and reliable alternatives that are understood and available at scale. Project DW(O)RX provides a rigorous benchmarking framework to evaluate alternatives across performance, environmental impact and cost. By collaborating with other brands and partners, we are contributing to a shared knowledge base that supports progress towards safer chemistry, while maintaining the quality and durability our customers expect.” C&A External Affairs

Circ announced that the first men's denim collection featuring TENCEL™ | Circ® with REFIBRA™ technology is now available at H&M, marking the commercial delivery of this unique pilot project first announced in October 2025. Featuring two styles available across the UK, Scandinavia, Central Europe, Eastern Europe, South Europe, Turkey, North America, Mexico, Canada, and the Middle East, the launch brings TENCEL™ | Circ® with REFIBRA™ technology into H&M's standard men's denim assortment for the first time.

The collection explores a fully integrated supply chain approach from textile waste to pulp to shelf, bringing together Circ’s textile-to-textile recycling technology, Lenzing’s fiber production expertise, AGI Denim’s manufacturing capabilities, and H&M’s global retail platform. Each garment contains TENCEL™ Limited Edition Lyocell fibers produced with 30% Circ® pulp recycled from textile waste.

"This launch is proof that recycled textile fiber is ready for mass-market supply chains," said Peter Majeranowski, CEO of Circ. "Seeing TENCEL™ | Circ® with REFIBRA™ technology in H&M's standard men's denim assortment is a milestone the industry has been working toward. It validates that next-generation recycled materials can move through existing supply chains at the quality that global retail demands."

“This collaboration highlights that by bringing together players of all steps across the textile supply chain will result in circular garments available to consumers. We are proud to work with pioneers like Circ to showcase innovation on a pilot production level, making fibers available for commercial garments. We continue to keep our commitment to exploring collaborations with innovators, bringing new TENCEL™ fibers on the market via pilot-scale productions.” explains Caroline Ledl, Senior Director Product Operations at Lenzing Group.

The two-style collection, available in both light and dark wash denim, is the result of a collaboration between Circ and Lenzing to integrate advanced textile recycling into fiber production, demonstrating a path to scale up. Circ's recycling technology separates blended textile waste, including cotton-polyester garments that have historically been unable to be recycled, into two material streams: dissolving pulp and polyester monomers. The resulting Circ pulp is fed into Lenzing's lyocell production process alongside wood from certified or controlled sources, yielding a fiber that carries both the TENCEL™ brand and the REFIBRA™ technology designation, Lenzing's framework for incorporating pre- and post-consumer textile waste into new fiber.

Thiscollaborative project between a legacy sustainable fiber producer and a next-generation textile-to-textile recycler — with H&M as the retail partner bringing it to shelf — reflects a model that advocates have long argued is the most viable path to scaling circular textiles: incumbent infrastructure and emerging technology working in concert, rather than in parallel.