From the Sector

Ravel has closed an oversubscribed $8.2 million seed round led by One Small Planet, with participation from AP Ventures, Overlay Capital, Lichen Ventures and existing investors. The funding is intended to move the Seattle-based recycling company from pilot operation towards commercial readiness.

Its Purification Recycling process is aimed at one of apparel recycling's persistent problems: stretch blends. Elastane is widely used in activewear, denim, underwear and other garments, yet even relatively small percentages can interfere with established recycling routes.

Rather than treating the whole textile as a single feedstock, Ravel is developing a separation and purification route for polyester/elastane blends. The company says recovered material can be converted into recycled plastic pellets for renewed use as a raw material.

The next phase will test more than chemistry. Commercial viability depends on throughput, feedstock variability, separation efficiency, energy and chemical inputs, and the quality of the recovered fractions. Ravel plans to validate the process at production scale with textile partners.

The financing adds capacity at a point where recyclers are increasingly trying to tackle blends that mechanical systems cannot readily return to fibre.

Freudenberg Performance Materials and Foshan United Medical Technologies (UMT) will make their first joint appearance at the WUWHS congress in Kuala Lumpur since Freudenberg acquired the Chinese wound-care specialist at the end of July. The combined platform stretches from fibre and nonwoven technologies to finished advanced wound-care solutions.

UMT’s primary dressings include alginate, carboxymethylcellulose (CMC) and chitosan technologies. Alginate variants include silver-containing options for antimicrobial protection, while CMC is used for moisture management and gel formation. Chitosan brings haemostatic and bacteriostatic properties. UMT is also presenting a non-invasive wound-closure system.

Freudenberg complements these primary-care products with Tacnera®, its patented silicone-coated foam-dressing technology. A dual-silicone construction combines secure edge adhesion with a gentler wound-contact layer, while a wave-pattern coating is designed to improve flexibility and exudate management. The wider industrial story is vertical integration: UMT’s capabilities run from fibre production and functionalisation through nonwovens, packaging, sterilisation and regulatory approval.

Researchers from Empa, Eawag and Agroscope have produced the first systematic estimate of how much microplastic is deposited from the atmosphere across Switzerland. For areas below 2,000 metres, the study estimates annual deposition of about 219 tonnes, including roughly 78 tonnes on agricultural land and around ten tonnes directly into water bodies.

The official release identifies loose fibres from functional clothing among the sources that can enter the environment, alongside PET bottles and other plastic products. Sampling was conducted for a full year at five locations, with particles between 20 and 215 micrometres analysed using imaging infrared microspectroscopy. PET, polyethylene and polypropylene were the most frequently detected polymers.

For textiles, the findings matter because they add atmospheric transport to the better-known discussion around fibre release through washing. The work provides a new evidence base for assessing material emissions and mitigation priorities, while the researchers stress that long-term environmental and health effects remain under investigation.

Hamburg Textile Week will present 14 projects from Germany, the Netherlands and Sweden from 1 to 11 October 2026 under the theme “Stoffe mit Zukunft” – Fabrics with a Future. The program focuses on new materials, processes and technologies, including textile energy systems, bio-based materials and interactive fabrics.

Projects range from SkySails kites that generate electricity from high-altitude wind and revoltech’s hemp-residue-based LOVR material to “Talking Textiles,” which translates touch into sound in real time. A Stühmer|Scholz exoskeleton uses textile components as the interface between body and technology. Other exhibits include a curtain woven with thin-film solar cells and work on bio-based dyeing.

Design Zentrum Hamburg is joined by the FABRIC – Future Fashion Lab for talks and workshops, with HAW Hamburg, AMD Akademie Mode & Design, Made auf Veddel and Greenpeace also participating. The format brings research, design, production and circular-design questions into one city-wide textile program.

Dahsheng Company has introduced MORPH, a materials platform that combines foams, textiles, films and functional layers into application-specific engineered systems. Brands can select surface materials, foam cores, colours, density, thickness, perforation and additional functional layers. The platform can be supplied as moulded components, sheet materials or fully integrated material systems, with footwear and sports applications a clear focus.

At the core are DSC’s DREAMCELL open-cell and DURAPONTEX closed-cell foam technologies. The company says more than 100 fabric and colour options are available for the top layer. Depending on the construction, the system can combine comfort, low weight, durability, breathability and impact protection. The emphasis therefore shifts from a single foam or textile to a coordinated multilayer material architecture.

For textile developers, the interface between softgoods and foam engineering is the most relevant aspect. Face fabrics, synthetic surfaces, films, foam and backing layers can be engineered together for the end use. That can streamline material development for brands, but it also raises questions around adhesion, long-term durability, recyclability and the end-of-life handling of heterogeneous multilayer constructions.

DSC does not publish standardised performance values, comparative test data or recycling routes for MORPH in the announcement. Performance and environmental claims should therefore be treated as manufacturer statements at this stage. MORPH integrates textile and polymer functional layers within a single materials-development platform.

PITAKA has introduced a new weaving technique for aramid fibre at a brand event in Berlin. The company is best known for thin smartphone cases and accessories made with aramid. Its new “Trace Form” technique is intended to avoid a completely uniform programmed surface: selected fibres are allowed to drift from their prescribed path so that texture emerges from controlled irregularity.

The first application is the “Wind Over Wheat Trace Form Edition”, with a surface intended to evoke wind moving across a wheat field and offered in three finishes. PITAKA presents the method as an interaction between industrial precision, material response and human judgement. For textile and material developers, the notable point is that a high-performance fibre normally valued for strength and low weight is being used as the visible aesthetic element of the product itself.

The release leaves important technical questions unanswered. It provides no fibre fineness, weave parameters, mechanical data or quantified performance difference versus earlier aramid constructions. It would therefore be misleading to describe the launch as a new performance class. What can be stated is that PITAKA is translating a deliberately variable woven structure into a commercial aramid product and broadening the interface between technical fibres, composite structures and lifestyle design.

The limited Trace Form edition is scheduled to launch on 17 September. For textile-industry coverage, the relevant angle is not the consumer-electronics accessory itself but the material strategy: technical fibres can acquire additional value through construction, surface appearance and tactile expression beyond their conventional performance role.

NC State University is a core partner in the BRIDGES Engine initiative backed by the US National Science Foundation, with up to $160 million available over ten years. A central focus is the development of miscanthus and switchgrass as feedstocks for biobased products.

The plant fibres are intended for applications including automotive, construction and packaging. NC State will contribute techno-economic assessment, sustainability analysis and processing expertise to convert agricultural feedstocks into fibre materials suitable for industrial use.

For technical textiles, the initiative is particularly relevant because it goes beyond laboratory-scale material development and aims to build supply chains, processing capacity and regional markets in parallel.

Fashion for Good announced the launch of Project DW(O)R-X, a collaborative initiative designed to benchmark PFAS alternative durable water- and oil-repellent (DW(O)R) chemistries. Responding to growing market demand for alternatives to PFAS based finishes, the project aims to generate reliable, comparable data that can support informed sourcing decisions and the assessment of emerging chemistries.

Historically, durable water- and oil-repellent (DW(O)R) finishes have been used to help materials stay dry, clean and durable over time. Some formulations have contained per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS), a group of chemicals characterised by their high persistence. As a result, PFAS can remain in the environment for extended periods, bioaccumulate in humans and ecosystems, and have been associated with adverse health effects when exposure exceeds established thresholds. 

Despite the momentum towards PFAS-based alternatives, several challenges remain. First, many currently available alternatives do not match the oil repellency and long-term durability of PFAS-based finishes. Second, there is currently no unified approach to assessing performance, and existing protocols do not always reflect real-world use, making meaningful comparisons between solutions difficult. Third, current benchmarks no longer reflect the capabilities of today’s PFAS alternative solutions; updated benchmarks are needed to identify leading solutions and understand performance gaps, to help inform R&D and scale-up efforts. Finally, as the industry works to identify suitable alternatives, it is essential to carefully assess their environmental and health impacts to minimise the risk of regrettable substitution, where one problematic substance  is replaced by another without sufficient understanding.

To address these core challenges, Project DW(O)R-X will benchmark nine PFAS alternative solutions, ranging from early-stage innovations to established chemistries, across three dimensions: performance, environmental impact, and cost. To support this, project partners have developed a performance framework designed to better reflect real-world use by incorporating multi-condition testing and custom stains relevant to sportswear and outerwear, including soil, sunscreen, and sweat. 

This approach will enable the group to test a performance framework built on combining various standardised methods. The insights generated can help establish a common reference point for the industry: brands and mills can use it to inform internal decision-making, while chemical companies can rely on it to substantiate performance claims.

The project brings together an exciting group of industry stakeholders, including leading brands adidas and C&A, manufacturing partners Shahi Exports, Paradise Textiles, Positive Materials and Wujiang Fuhua Fabric Co., alongside technology providers Archroma, Daikin Chemicals Europe, Dow, Dryfiber, Jintex, Lamoral Coatings, Pulcra Chemicals, Rudolf, and vandeyk.tech. Performance testing will be conducted by SGS. 

“The challenge for the whole industry isn’t just phasing out PFAS: it’s ensuring we don’t replace it with something equally concerning that we understand less well. Right now, brands and mills are navigating this transition without updated benchmarks to compare these alternatives. Project DW(O)R-X gives them the data they need: performance testing that reflects real-world use, comprehensive impact assessment, and a better understanding of cost structures. This is how we enable informed decisions and genuine progress toward safer chemistry at scale.” Katrin Ley, Managing Director at Fashion for Good.
 
“We have not allowed the intentional use of PFAS in our products for many years. However, phasing out PFAS across the sector requires coordinated action across the value chain. A responsible transition depends on shared changes in manufacturing practices, supported by accessible and reliable alternatives that are understood and available at scale. Project DW(O)RX provides a rigorous benchmarking framework to evaluate alternatives across performance, environmental impact and cost. By collaborating with other brands and partners, we are contributing to a shared knowledge base that supports progress towards safer chemistry, while maintaining the quality and durability our customers expect.” C&A External Affairs

SGL Carbon and X-energy announced a binding agreement to double SGL’s production capacity for medium-grain isotropic graphite (“NBG-18”), a specialized material central to X-energy’s Xe-100 high-temperature gas-cooled reactor. X-energy and SGL Carbon’s agreement would expand the supply chain for a critical long-lead material, supporting execution of X-energy’s commercial pipeline.

Under the agreement, X-energy will invest up to $8 million in milestone-based payments to support new facilities and equipment upgrades at SGL’s site in Chedde, France, enabling the facility to produce graphite billets for up to eight new Xe-100 reactors per year. SGL Carbon has concurrently agreed to expand U.S. capacity for machining of billets into graphite blocks, helping to ensure greater supply chain continuity for a safety-critical material. Full execution would double European manufacturing capacity for NBG-18 by 2030, with additional capacity investments under consideration across multiple regions to further debottleneck initial billet production.

The expansion builds on a 10-year Supplier Framework Agreement established in January 2026, which included an initial three-year award valued at over $100 million for X-energy’s first commercial projects. The first NBG-18 graphite blocks produced under this award at SGL’s site in Chedde have since been shipped to SGL sites in the United States, for machining into components. This follows a successful prototyping campaign which began earlier this year, consisting of non-nuclear testing and validation at X-energy’s Technology and Advancement Center in Frederick, Maryland (USA) in advance of final production.

“Commercializing new nuclear at scale rests first and foremost on our ability to significantly expand the new nuclear supply chain, a challenge that extends beyond any one company, supplier, or nation,” said J. Clay Sell, CEO of X-energy. “We look forward to driving this work forward with SGL, and to engaging with potential partners who share our bold vision for a robust, resilient, U.S. and allied nuclear supply chain.”

“By jointly expanding our production capacity for nuclear-grade graphite, we are reinforcing the importance of our partnership and ensuring reliable supply to X-energy. For SGL Carbon, this agreement is a strategically important step that strengthens our position in the highly specialized growth market for nuclear-grade graphite, underscores the importance of our graphite expertise for safety-critical applications, and opens up attractive opportunities for further growth,” said Andreas Klein, CEO of SGL Carbon.

NBG-18 is a nuclear-grade graphite central to the Xe-100 design, functioning as a neutron moderator, and a structural component of the pebble-bed core. The material was first developed for South Africa's Pebble Bed Modular Reactor program, and later the U.S. Department of Energy's (“DOE”) Next Generation Nuclear Plant project, two direct predecessors to X-energy’s Xe-100. Through these, X-energy’s and SGL Carbon’s own initiatives, NBG-18 has undergone extensive qualification work for commercial nuclear operation, gathering operational data that helps to validate the material’s performance over decades of high-temperature operation.

Initial NBG-18 production is intended to support X-energy’s first commercial deployment of the Xe-100 reactor, a proposed four-unit plant in partnership with Dow Chemical Company under the Advanced Reactor Demonstration Program of the United States Department of Energy (DOE), with additional capacity secured for follow-on projects to support manufacturing readiness for safety-critical, long-lead materials. SGL Carbon’s and X-energy’s partnership is part of a growing, diversified portfolio of experienced suppliers supporting Xe-100 deployment, as well as the continued development of a global industrial supply chain.

“You can’t see it or hear it – and that’s exactly why it’s ideal for this application,” says Stefan Wallner, Automotive Sales Manager at JUMBO-Textil. The Textation Group subsidiary specializing in technical narrow textiles is an expert in elastics and produces, among other things, components for automotive suppliers, such as rebound strap, release strap, and tensioning braids. Many of these products remain hidden from view. Built-in into the seat or behind a trim panel, they reliably fulfill their function: tensioning, holding, adjusting, fixing ... The textile components work behind the scenes – lightweight, quiet, and durable.

Invisible High-Performer
One of these “invisible high-performers” is a cleverly designed functional tape. The combination of an elastic and a non-elastic woven tape serves as a flap fastener for a card pocket in the seatback. The force-elongation behavior can be precisely controlled by specifying the dimensions and materials of the elastic tape. The non-elastic tape ensures stability at the rubbing points and silent operation.

The flap is held in place by two such combination tapes, which are installed in a crisscross pattern in the seatback. The non-elastic tapes are threaded through a slit in the flap and folded and sewn on the other side so that they are securely anchored behind the slit. The elastic tapes are hooked into precisely defined holes in the seatback. The holes are cut out using laser cutting. Thanks to the sealed hole edges, they are stable and durable. This complex component goes unnoticed by vehicle passengers. Only for the brief moment when they open the flap, one to two centimeters of the non-elastic woven tape flash into view from the side.

Close cooperation, precise specifications
Auto Leder Atelier GmbH, or ALEA for short, uses this high-quality functional tape from JUMBO-Textil. The specialist in interior finishing – from lamination to leather upholstery – manufactures high-quality interior components in series production for car manufacturers and Tier 1 suppliers in the luxury and premium segments, including leather seats and trim for some of the world’s most renowned car brands." Strength-elongation behaviour, flame retardancy, surface properties … – no parameter must deviate from the final sample. The textiles must deliver the performance for which they are designed, right down to the very last fibre. “As a solutions provider, we supply narrow textiles that are precisely tailored to the respective requirements – from environmental conditions to the installation situation – and deliver exactly what the customers need in each case. For ALEA’s functional tape, we have developed a special variant with two different tape widths and produced samples with the exact project-specific properties,” explains Wallner. “A detailed understanding of the customer’s project is essential for this.”
    
Regular on-site discussions
ALEA also attaches great importance to the partnership. “As well as their impeccable appearance, feel and sound, our leather products offer maximum functionality. Every detail counts, whether visible or hidden,” emphasises Mario Haufe, COO of ALEA. “Our partner, JUMBO-Textil, supplies highly functional, ready-to-fit components for our products. That is why we work with the company based in North Rhine-Westphalia. And experience shows that this result also depends on good collaboration with the supplier. Only those who understand us, our expectations, our production conditions and the component’s installation requirements can supply us with components that fit perfectly into the product and our processes.”

JUMBO-Textil was on site at ALEA when the project began. The development team in Sprockhövel therefore knows exactly how the colleagues in Hofstetten work and what they need. All the specifications for the specialised functional tape were precisely defined jointly. JUMBO-Textil then developed several possible solutions, from which the ALEA team was able to choose the perfect option. “As a result, even the prototype for the first installation trial was quite close to the final solution,” explains Haufe. “This was once again an excellent example of collaboration that benefits everyone: us, the car manufacturer and, ultimately, all those travelling in the vehicle who stow their tablet – or whatever else they have with them – safely in the seatback flap.”

• Combination of elastic and non-elastic materials
• Available in various widths
• Available in customer-specific colours
• Holes created by laser cutting or interlaced during the braiding process
• Ready to use: pre-assembled, e.g. with a sewn-on flat plastic profile
• With sewable plastic
• Elastic material: natural rubber
• Flame-retardant finishing