From the Sector

Archroma, a leader in specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, is teaming up with COLOURizd™, an innovator specializing in sustainable textile dyeing technologies, to set a new standard for the eco-friendlier production of sustainable textiles.

The new collaboration will enable fabric mills and brands to combine Archroma pigment coloration solutions with the COLOURizd™ QuantumCOLOUR™ yarn-coloring technology to produce high-quality, high-performance textiles with maximum consumer appeal and minimal environmental impact.

Conventional fiber-reactive methods of dyeing cellulosic and synthetic yarns are multi-step resource-intensive processes that use up to 95 liters of water per kilograms of colored yarn and discharge approximately 94 liters of effluent.

In contrast, the innovative QuantumCOLOUR™ process injects pigment and a binder directly into the yarn, using only 0.95 liters of water per kilograms of colored yarn while producing zero effluent. This represents an unprecedented reduction of 98% in water consumption alongside zero wastewater discharge, zero discharge of harmful chemicals, 73% decrease in carbon footprint and 50% reduction in energy use.*

With Archroma, textile manufacturers and apparel brands can add further value to the QuantumCOLOUR™ process with tailor-made system solutions, including JUST COLOR. This formaldehyde-free** pigment coloration system is based on Archroma’s revolutionary Printofix® pigment dispersions and Helizarin® binders to deliver exceptionally soft fabrics with high fastness and durability, while also enabling energy and chemical savings and higher productivity.

* As tested by Peterson Control Union
** Below limits of detection according to industry standard test methods

On June 1, EREMA hosted the EREMA Discovery Day focusing on the post consumer segment from a European perspective. Live demonstrations showcased the latest machine innovations for PET and polyolefin recycling.

The invitation was accepted by around 400 customers and partners, mainly from Europe, to find out about the wide range of recycling technologies for PO and PET plastic waste. The technology that was presented and explained by EREMA experts and guest speakers during lectures in the morning, could then be seen live in-action in the afternoon when the recycling machines were demonstrated in operation. A total of six innovative recycling technologies were on display: INTAREMA® TVEplus® DuaFil® Compact, INTAREMA® TVEplus® RegrindPro® + ReFresher, the COREMA® cascade extrusion system, a VACUREMA® Inline Sheet line equipped with new EcoGentle technology, the new INTAREMA® FibrePro:IV machine, and the PCU-
TwinScrew. These allowed visitors to witness their performance and the high quality of recycled pellets that they produce.

"This wide range of technologies is necessary because the recycling process each of our customers choose depends on the type of plastic, the level of contamination of the input material, and which product will be made using the recycled pellets. Following the expansion of our Ansfelden site and with the new site nearby in St. Marien, we can now demonstrate all these processes, carry out test runs with customers' material and focus on development work independently of our Customer Centre," says EREMA's Managing Director Markus Huber-Lindinger.

EREMA is driving forward research and development work in the company's new R&D Centre. Two halls with a total area of 1,550 square metres and a new office building offering space for 50 workplaces has been built. Here, the company bundles cross-departmental test machines and laboratory facilities for post consumer and inhouse recycling applications. R&D is decentralised at EREMA. Employees from different departments handle process engineering challenges, innovations in mechanical engineering and automation technology - all with the aim of meeting customer requirements and achieving the highest possible quality of recycled pellets.  

On the evening before Discovery Day, EREMA celebrated its 40th anniversary together with customers and partners. A review covered the company's history - from the first workshop in a garage in 1983, to its position today as a innovation pioneer and one of the market leaders.

At the 14th edition more than 4,500 visitors from the retail industry gathered in Mumbai from 1 to 3 June to exchange views on the latest products and solutions specifically for the Indian retail market. Exhibitors on over 7,500 m2 demonstrated where the future of the Indian retail sector is headed. This year's event offered new product segments and profiles, bringing the spotlight to sustainability and focusing on the growth of the overall industry.

The Indian retail market is one of the fastest growing retail markets in the world and a key driver for the Indian economy, something that was also reflected by numerous positive conversations where fruitful synergies were created and long-term relationships were established. Appealing retail design, shopper marketing strategies and visual merchandising were the highlights of the exhibits on the show floor. The trade visitors were also distinguished by a high level of decision-making skills and brand experience expertise.

Thomas Schlitt, Managing Director, Messe Düsseldorf India, points out: “We are very delighted with the brilliant response received from the retail industry for In-store Asia 2023. The event has yet again made its mark by bringing together relevant business opportunities for both exhibitors and visitors. In-store Asia 2023 had something for everyone looking to network and learn from peers and associates in the industry. The event has always been a key meeting point for bellwethers, innovators, distributors, brands and retailers. The 2023 edition has been greatly appreciated for the futuristic ideas and solutions presented both on the expo floor as well as through the dialogues at the convention. I am certain that the connections made here will result in great business prospects for all.”

Elke Moebius, Director Retail & Retail Technology at Messe Düsseldorf, also draws a positive conclusion: “In-store Asia has again confirmed its position as a platform for retail innovations, impressive customer journeys, and shopper-focused strategies that stage physical stores as vibrant, appealing shopping destinations that can captivate and thrill shoppers. Everyone attending here could feel this sense of new departures and investment in the Indian retail sector.”

The 3-day event was accompanied by a Convention under the heading “Humanise, Hybridise, Hyper Localise Retail Experience” where more than 30 speakers delivered talks on such topics as retail research, visual merchandising, shopper marketing and design innovations, to name but a few. Another highlight was the presentation of the coveted VM & RD Retail Design Awards, for which India’s top talents from the Retail Design, Visual Merchandising and Manufacturing sectors competed with each other in 23 distinct categories of store design and window display. At the VM Challenge, six teams of visual merchandisers from renowned brands and companies demonstrated the day before how they conceptualise and realise a shop window within one hour under a given theme and design brief.

DyStar, a specialty chemical company with a heritage of more than a century in product development and innovation, is announcing the sale of its auxiliary manufacturing site located at Pietermaritzburg, South Africa.

Oakland Polymers Pty Ltd, a local manufacturer, has acquired DyStar’s manufacturing facility and will take over the site to expand their polymer business. Under the sale and purchase agreement, DyStar divested the entire facility, which is approximately 12,000 sqm, to Oakland Polymers and Oakland Properties. DyStar Africa’s operations will continue to lease part of the premises from Oakland for office and warehousing use.

Mr. Xu Yalin, Managing Director, and President of DyStar Group said, “The sale of the manufacturing site at DyStar Africa is part of our ongoing efforts to reconsolidate our business resources in Turkey, Africa & Middle East (TAME) region, with a focus on improving productivity and utilization rates.”

As a result of the acquisition, all employees at the manufacturing site have already been informed. Compensation packages are offered to affected colleagues as well.

Customers have also been informed of undisrupted supply to their orders during the transition period and are further assured of a seamless customer journey going forward when the acquisition is completed.

Carbios will receive grants totaling €54 million from French State via France 2030 and Grand-Est Region to finance construction of world’s first PET biorecycling plant and accelerate R&D activities

Carbios announces that its project has been selected by the French State for funding of €30 million from the French State as part of the investment plan France 2030, and €12.5 million from the Grand-Est Region.  The implementation of this funding is conditional to the European Commission’s approval of the corresponding state aid scheme, followed by the conclusion of national aid agreements. As part of the national call for projects on “Plastics Recycling” operated by ADEME^[1], Carbios’ project to finalize the industrialization of its unique PET biorecycling process has been selected. The reference plant in Longlaville in the Grand-Est region will be the world’s first PET biorecycling plant and is due for commissioning in 2025. This plant will make it possible to relocate to France the production of the two basic components of PET, PTA and MEG^[2], both derived from the Carbios process.

Carbios also announces that it has been granted total funding of €11.4 million from the French State as part of France 2030, of which €8.2 million directly for Carbios (€5 million in repayable advances) and €3.2 million for its academic partners INRAE^[3], INSA^[4] and CNRS^[5] via the TWB^[6] and TBI^[7] joint service and research units. This funding will enable to continue its research into the optimization and continuous improvement of Carbios’ enzymatic technologies.

The plant will secure the sales of the first volumes of recycled PET produced with Carbios’ technology, and to offer its partners recycled PET of the same quality as virgin PET. Once the necessary permits have been obtained, which should be granted by the end of 2023, in line with the announced start of construction before the end of the year, the plant is scheduled to be commissioned in 2025. This will be followed by a period of ramp-up to full capacity. The plant will have a nominal processing capacity of 50,000 tonnes of PET waste per year, equivalent to 2 billion bottles or 2.5 billion food trays.

Selection for funding by the French State through France 2030 and the Grand-Est Region complements the recent announcement of an exclusive, long-term partnership with Novozymes^[8], a leader in enzyme production, one of the main aims is to ensure the supply of enzymes to Carbios’ Longlaville plant and future licensed plants. In addition, Carbios recently secured a first supply source for its future plant by winning part of the CITEO tender for the biorecycling of multilayer trays^[9].

^[1] The French Agency for Ecological Transition
^[2] PTA = purified terephthalic acid; MEG = monoethylene glycol
^[3] French National Research Institute for Agriculture, Food and the Environment
^[4] French National Institute of Applied Sciences
^[5] French National Center for Scientific Research
^[6] Toulouse White Biotechnology – UMS INRAE 1337 / UAR CNRS 3582
^[7] Toulouse Biotechnology Institute – UMR INSA/CNRS 5504 / UMR INSA/INRAE 792
^[8] Cf. press release dated 12 January 2023
^[9] Cf. press release published by Citeo dated 26 April 2023

The fully booked international denim trade show BLUEZONE will celebrate its anniversary. More than 100 denim and sportswear specialists will transform Munich's Zenith area into a blue hotspot on this summer's early July date, which has been repositioned for the first time. Parallel to MUNICH FABRIC START and THE SOURCE and with a supporting program that is as full to the brim as it is relevant, the area on Munich's Lilienthalallee will become the hub of the international fashion community.

2023 is not only BLUEZONE's anniversary year: this summer marks the 150th anniversary of the patenting of jeans, Orta celebrates its 70th birthday in 2023 and denim icon Ruedi Karrer celebrates the 50th of his "The Jeans Museum" in Zurich. Vicunha is celebrating its 55th birthday. BLUEZONE therefore pays tribute to denim in all its facets. CONNEXXION is the appropriate leitmotif of the upcoming event.

"We have a line-up that will almost break the two days: in addition to internationally relevant and well-known exhibitors such as Calik, Denim Authority, Isko, Kurabo, Naveena Denim, NDL, Orta, Royo, Saitex and Sharabati among many others, we will have a 360° degree denim experience park in the completely booked Zenith Area", says Frank Junker, Creative Director & Partner, Munich Fabric Start Exhibitions GmbH. What visitors can expect here, among other things: two seminar sessions by the Transformers Foundation as well as panels and talks with Women in Denim, Mohsin Sajid and The 5 Denim Senses by AMD Düsseldorf, plus installations such as the photo exhibition "The World's best Denim Fades" by Bryan Szabo, founder of the Indigo Invitational, the exhibition by designer Ksenia Schnaider and a special presentation by "The Jeans Museum" Zurich, through which Ruedi Karrer himself will give guided tours.

For the first time, BLUEZONE will take place this summer on the new, earlier dates of July 18 and 19 and not at the end of August / beginning of September as in the past. With this step forward in terms of dates, MUNICH FABRIC START and BLUEZONE are reacting to changed order and collection rhythms and will position themselves in the future at the beginning of the purchasing and sourcing phase.

To this end, the exclusive VIEW Premium Selection, also organized by Munich Fabric Start Exhibitions GmbH, will move to the previous MFS date and on September 13 and 14 - then for the first time also on the Zenith grounds - will offer the market an additional, later ordering opportunity as RE:VIEW.

"Policy makers need to consider that global dimension."
 
EURATEX released its 2023 Spring Report, which analyses latest trade flows for textiles and clothing products.

In 2022, EU trade in textiles and clothing has exceeded, for the first time in history, the €200 billion mark. This record growth of total trade is mainly due to a sharp increase of clothing imports (+36,6% in value), especially from China and Bangladesh, which outweighs Europe’s positive export performance. As a result, the EU’s trade deficit in textiles and clothing has increased to €70 billion, which is 48% higher than the year before.

Such a growing deficit is a cause for concern; the objective of the EU’s Industrial Strategy to strengthen resilience and “strategic autonomy” is not happening. Instead, the dependency has increased, and becomes critical in certain raw materials and fibres.

It also challenges the Commission’s ambition is to promote – and prevail – high quality and sustainable textile products on the Single Market – regardless where they have been produced. With imports now reaching €140 billion, it will be a challenge to effectively control the quality and compliance over these imports. Market surveillance will need to be stepped up massively, without becoming a barrier to trade.

The efforts on the EU’s export performance need to be strengthened, so as to rebalance the European trade relations with the rest of the world. EU companies are world leader in high end fashion products and in technical textiles. More needs to be done to support their activities in established markets but also emerging economies. For instance, the ongoing FTA negotiations with India should focus on improving market access and ensure “fair” competition with local companies.

The EURATEX Spring Report highlights significant differences between trade in value and in volume. EU’s export of textile products has increased by 13% in value, but actually dropped by nearly 7% in volume. This obviously reflects the very high inflation figures from last year, caused initially by the rising energy prices and changing central bank policies. This in turn leads to uncertainty with the consumer, resulting in low demand and gloomy prospects for the entire value chain.

Director General Dirk Vantyghem commented on these latest figures: “This report confirms once again that “textiles” is one of the most globalised sectors of the European economy, and hence the importance of taking that global dimension into account, when designing EU and national policies. Failing to do so may have a devastating effect on the global competitiveness of the European textile industry.

Looking forward, he added: “It is essential to stabilise inflation, restore consumer confidence and ensure a level playing field for all operators in the textile industry. On that basis, European companies can prosper and offer quality jobs to 1.3 million workers”.

A total of 20 European fashion and design schools took part in the 2nd “Fashioning Sustainability” competition organized by Freudenberg Performance Materials together with Macpi and Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei, two co-branding partners in the textile industry.

Freudenberg invited talented young designers to create and submit their ideas for sustainable clothing. The initiative aims to show that sustainability is a key factor in the fashion industry.

Two of the most innovative outfits from each school were selected for the final round and presented to an international jury at the “Bagni Misteriosi” event location in Milan in May. Fashion design experts and opinion leaders as well as journalists were invited to select the most sustainable designs in the categories of “Technology” and “Design”.

The winners
First place in the “Technology” category went to Judith Marquant while the second to Jagoda Sokolowska, both students of the fashion school Esmod in Paris. Ilaria De Martino, from the fashion institute Modartech, Italy, and Xiaodan Liao from Polimoda, Italy, were awarded first and second place in the “Design” category. The first-place winners received €2,000, while the second places won €1,000.

All participants benefited from the platform to network with leading players in the garment industry and learn more about concrete steps for embracing sustainability. Creating true sustainability in the fashion industry means reducing the material flow of clothing, addressing both sustainable production and consumption.

Members of the Jury:
Cristiano Zanetti, Sales Director Italy, Freudenberg Performance Materials
Maurizio Cazzin, Male Modeller, Maison Giorgio Armani
Riccardo Bullio, Apparel Industrial Division Director, Dolce & Gabbana
Caterina Cuoghi, Industrial Director, Area NYC
Simone Bigi, Style and Product Office Manager FAY line, Gruppo TOD’S
Roberto Cibin, Model and Pattern Development Manager, Caruso
Bruno Landi, Sales Director, Vitale Barberis Canonico
Luisella Allegretti, Pattern Designer Boss MW Business Specialist, Hugo Boss
Eugenio Balordi, Product Manager, Maison Margiela
Ettore Pellegrini, Sales and Marketing Manager, Asahi Kasei Fibers Italia

NDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, announced four recipients for the Lifetime Service Award and Lifetime Technical Achievement Awards. Jan O’Regan, Seshadri Ramkumar, Jim Robinson, and Ed Thomas are being recognized for their key contributions to the growth of the nonwovens industry and INDA.

Jan O’Regan: INDA Lifetime Service Award
Jan O’Regan was the Director, Strategic Initiatives and Nonwovens Marketing, for Cotton Incorporated and retired in 2022. In this capacity, she uncovered new opportunities for cotton to bring value into the nonwovens industry. Her work included leading efforts in strategic planning, technical and market project management, and sharing new ideas and results with the global supply chain.
O’Regan spent over four decades in the nonwovens industry in various roles, including sales, marketing, strategic planning and business management. Market responsibilities included consumer and industrial markets on regional, national, and global teams. Over the most recent years, she applied these broad experiences to new markets for cotton in nontraditional applications.
Serving and volunteering with INDA for decades, O’Regan most recently chaired the World of Wipes® committee, which she efficiently organized to produce innovative conferences for the wipes industry.  She was a frequent speaker at INDA, INSIGHT, EDANA, and other events, and for nearly two decades was a go to source of information for cotton fibers in nonwovens and hygiene. O’Regan earned a BS in Textiles and Business, summa cum laude, from Penn State University and an MBA from New York University’s Stern School of Business.

Seshadri Ramkumar: INDA Lifetime Technical Achievement Award
Seshadri Ramkumar has over twenty-five years of experience within the technical nonwovens space, conducting industry leading research and educating nonwovens professionals at Texas Tech University (TTU).  At TTU, he established the Nonwovens Laboratory. Many of Ramkumar’s students have gone on to become technical leaders within their organizations and the nonwovens industry.
Ramkumar has numerous patent and invention disclosures, including Fibertect® toxic chemical decontamination wipes which have been recognized by the American Chemical Society as a notable success of federally supported innovation, endorsed by Lawrence Livermore National Laboratory, and adopted by multiple branches of the military.
In addition to many peer-reviewed publications, articles, and columns collectively over 500, including one on nanofibers that has been cited over 2,100 times, Ramkumar has contributed his expertise on the editorial boards of multiple fiber, nonwoven, and textile journals. Ramkumar has also organized conferences for nonwovens and textiles and actively promoted INDA and its technical training offerings for over 20 years.
He is a longtime member of the INDA Technical Advisory Board, been recognized by TAPPI, Society of Dyers and Colorists (UK), the Textile Institute (UK), and the Textile Association (INDIA), and received numerous awards from TTU.
Ramkumar holds a Bachelors of Technology (Textiles), Graduated with Distinction, and a Masters of Technology (Textiles), University First Rank in the Discipline, Anna University, and a Ph.D. (Textile Materials) from the University of Leeds, UK.

Jim Robinson: INDA Lifetime Technical Achievement Award
Jim Robinson has 33 years in the absorbent hygiene industry, including 28 years as a Technical Service Manager at BASF. He led technical teams that focused on the application of superabsorbent polymers (SAP) in hygiene products. Robinson has extensive knowledge of SAP applications, absorbent core formation, and hygiene article design, performance and testing. While with BASF, Robinson led efforts with multiple external companies to provide co-supplier solutions to hygiene converters.
Robinson’s extensive understanding of test methods and test method development led to his coordinating the establishment of fitness for use standards of adult incontinent products with the National Association for Continence and involvement in development and review of absorbent product test methods with INDA/EDANA. He is also an active contributor to INDA’s Technical Advisory Board and Hygienix organizing committee and was a contributing developer in establishing the INDA Absorbent Hygiene Training Course. Robinson has provided numerous presentations at INSIGHT, Hygienix, and RISE on performance and interactions of absorbent system components.
Recently, Robinson has been consulting and contributing to the success of multiple start-ups including those having been nominated for INDA product awards. Robinson has a BS in Chemistry from Hampden-Sydney College and an MS in Chemistry from Duke University.

Ed Thomas: INDA Lifetime Technical Achievement Award
Ed Thomas retired after 39 years, with 32 years in the nonwovens industry, and has remained active teaching the Intermediate Nonwovens Training Course for INDA and The Nonwovens Institute at North Carolina State University, as well as providing consulting services to the industry.
Thomas’ experience includes Process Engineering Manager and Plant Management, DuPont; Technical Director, Reemay; VP of Research and Operations, VP of Operations and Technology, and Global VP of Research and Development for Fiberweb/BBA Nonwovens; and Head of Research and Product Development, First Quality Nonwovens.
Thomas holds 10 U.S. nonwoven patents and he and his teams have been awarded more than 250 patents for numerous and diverse innovations that have played significant roles in the success of the nonwovens industry. These include applications for the global hygiene market, industrial nonwovens, and filtration media.
During his career, Thomas has presented several keynote addresses and papers to industry conferences, participated in North Carolina State University’s Nonwovens Cooperative Research Center (NCRC) prior to it becoming The Nonwovens Institute (NWI), INDA’s Technical Advisory Board, INDA’s Sustainability Committee, and was Vice Chair of NWI’s Industrial Advisory Board prior to retirement and remains an Emeritus member.
Thomas received his mechanical engineering degree from SUNY Buffalo.

At ITMA 2023, XORELLA, a specialist in steam setting and conditioning equipment for yarns and fabrics, will launch XO AUTOMATION for the double door XO SELECT conditioning machine series, and XO SOLID, a new machine series to complement XO SMART, XO TREND and XO SELECT machines.

XO AUTOMATION
The new XO AUTOMATION system consists of roller conveyor systems for loading and unloading two-door XO Select conditioning machines. Additional pallet wrapping machine with a turntable, weighting station, label printer, safety fence and security system can complete the system. The XO Select controller and automation system can handle and store individual customer-specific material and packing programmes.  

XO SELECT and XO AUTOMATION are designed for yarn steaming on multiple pallet dimensions and heights up to 2,650mm. The linear material flow passing conveyor and steaming machine avoids any mix between steamed and un-steamed materials. XO AUTOMATION fills the gap between the XO automated moving platform and the fully automated transport system – from spinning hall to warehouse.

XO SOLID
The new cubical XO SOLID combines a high loading space of 1,800mm x 1,700mm x 4, 000mm (H x W x L) through double row pin trolleys or pallets for easy manual loading of six units on floor level without a pit or platform. XO SOLID is therefore designed for installations on upper floor levels. The new frame design combines all necessary components factory preinstalled on a single frame, for easy ‘plug and play’ installation at the customer site. Additional smaller steamer dimensions for two and four loading units are also at the planning stage.

The new XO SOLID incorporates all the renowned features of XORELLA machines based on the long term experience in high temperature dyeing vessel production of FONG’s, including:

• A Siemens controller with OPC UA interface and XO data tool for batch storage.
• A XO EcoPac waterless claw pump or two-stage water ring vacuum pump.
• A high energy efficient accumulator for steam, electric and combined heating.
• Vessel and piping in world-class stainless steel.
• European key components such as pumps, heating elements, valves and sensors

Established in Switzerland in 1967, XORELLA became known in the global textile industry for its innovative indirect steaming system. Since 2002 the company has been a member of the CHTC Fong’s International Group, and a member of SINOMACH Group (China National Machinery Industry Corporation) since 2019.