From the Sector

Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Solutions recently hosted its highly anticipated Innovation and Technology Day at the Deltin Hotel in Daman by end of January 2025. The event attracted over 300 participants, including industry experts, partners, and stakeholders, who gathered to explore the latest advancements and trends in the manmade fibers industry in India.

Customer Event in Daman, India
The Innovation and Technology Day commenced with a warm welcome and introduction by Wolfgang Ernst, Chief Sales Officer (CSO) at Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Solutions, and Debabrata Ghosh, Head of Sales at Oerlikon Textile India. They provided an overview of the Indian market and its challenges.

“The Indian textile industry, particularly the chemical fiber sector, is experiencing significant growth and transformation. This development is driven by increasing production capacities, strategic investments, and a shift in global consumption patterns”, said Ghosh. India's production of manmade fibers (MMF) is robust, with annual outputs of 4.8 million tons of Polyester Filament Yarn (PFY), 1.7 million tons of Polyester Staple Fiber (PSF), 0.7 million tons of viscose, 0.2 million tons of Polyamide 6 (PA 6), and 25 thousand tons of acrylic. Additionally, the country boasts substantial capacities for PET bottles and films, growing at rates of 7% and 15% per annum, respectively. The Indian market is witnessing significant expansions in PTA (Purified Terephthalic Acid) capacity, with major projects underway by Indian Oil Corporation, GAIL, MCPI, Reliance Industries, and the Adani-Indorama joint venture. These expansions are set to increase the PTA capacity from the current 6.296 million tons to over 14 million tons by 2030.

Market Dynamics and strategic investments
“The global consumption landscape is shifting towards India and emerging Asia, driven by rising incomes and changing demographics. By 2050, India and emerging Asia are expected to account for 30% of global consumption at purchasing-power parity (PPP), up from 12% in 1997. This shift underscores the growing importance of these regions in the global economic landscape”, Ghosh continuous. Significant investments are being made to enhance production capacities and integrate advanced technologies. Indian Oil Corporation, in a joint venture with MCPI, is establishing a 900 TPD continuous polymerization unit in Odisha, supported by substantial government subsidies. Similarly, the Adani Group, in partnership with Indorama, is entering the petrochemical sector with a $3 billion PTA plant in Maharashtra.

Challenges and Opportunities
Despite the positive outlook, the industry faces challenges such as ensuring cost efficiency, scalability, and the seamless integration of new technologies into existing production processes. However, the sector is optimistic about improving profitability, driven by favorable supply-demand dynamics and strategic investments. “The Indian textile and chemical fiber industry is poised for significant growth, supported by strategic investments, capacity expansions, and a favorable global consumption shift. These developments position India as a key player in the global textile market, driving towards a sustainable and prosperous future”, said Ernst.

After the introduction about the current market situation, the event continued with numerous technical presentations in which Oerlikon and its partners presented their technological and solution expertise along the textile value production chain “From Melt to Yarn, Fibers and Nonwovens”.

“To spin an excellent yarn, you need the prefect melt”, said Moderator André Wissenberg, Head of Marketing, Corporate Communications, and Public Affairs at Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Solutions. How this can be produced using extrusion or continuous polycondensation technology was demonstrated by the keynote speakers Sven Streiber, Regional Sales Director at Oerlikon Barmag, Deepak Lokre, Head of Engineering at Oerlikon Textile India, and Matthias Schmitz, Head of Engineering Recycling Technology at BB Engineering (BBE).

The second session focused on Oerlikons technology partner for manmade fiber spinning mills. Presentations covered topics such as enhancing manmade fiber production with innovative air engineering, automatic handling solutions and quality inspections, as well as air texturizing solutions. Notable speakers included Praveen Kumar Singh, Managing Director of Luwa India, and Luca Lacitignola, Sales Director at Irico Gualchierani Handling (IGH), Simone Ducceschi, Sales & Project Manager at Thema Systems, as well as Ralf Morgenroth, Head of Engineering Textile Machinery at BBE.

The third session delved into solutions for producing the perfect fibers and yarns, with a focus on Oerlikon Barmag POY/DTY, FDY, IDY technologies as well as Oerlikon Neumag BCF and staple fiber line plants. Presentations were delivered by Philip Jungbecker, Head of R&D, and Guido Dresen, Regional Sales Director, both at Oerlikon Barmag, as well Chetan Bhagat, General Manager Sales, and Sameer Mehrotra, General Manager Service at Oerlikon Textile India. Ralf Morgenroth added further insights of the compact spinning solution VarioFil from BBE.

Environmentally friendly recycling solutions
The fourth session highlighted environmentally friendly recycling solutions, featuring insights from Sven Streiber and Sudipto Mandal, Sales and Marketing Manager at Oerlikon Textile India, and again Matthias Schmitz, BBE. They provided a detailed portfolio overview in the field of mechanical and chemical recycling. The new partnership between Oerlikon Barmag and Evonik was also presented to the audience. Finally, this was followed by a session on customer services and digital solutions, where Michael Ruebenhagen, Head of Global Service Sales and Ivan Gallo, Digital Solutions, both at Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Solutions discussed current upgrade and retrofit options, the Digital Academy, and the future of digitalization in manmade fiber spinning mills. Shared Kulkarnie, General Manager Service Sales & Workshops, as well as Chandru Gurbaxani, Digital Solutions, performed together with their German colleagues.

The event concluded with closing remarks again from Wolfgang Ernst, who provided a global market overview and outlook for 2025. Final remarks were given by Atul Vaidya, Managing Director of Oerlikon Textile India. Finaly the event ended with a gala evening with more than 500 participants featuring a fashion show, music, dancing, and excellent food, supported by Decathlon and Garden Vareli.

TrusTrace, a market-leading platform for supply chain traceability and compliance in the fashion and textile industry, is participating in Textile Exchange’s test pilot project, to evaluate a multiparty Trackit™ system.

The pilot is set to run throughout 2025, marking a significant step forward in advancing traceability and transparency within the textile and apparel supply chain. The project aims to test the performance of an interoperable traceability framework that functions across diverse technology platforms. It is designed to minimize the burden on supply chain operators while maintaining a strong and credible standards system to adapt to an evolving legislative landscape.

Contributing to the Trackit™ pilot project
The TrusTrace platform is built to improve interoperability and works with multiple enterprise systems and data formats. In 2024 the platform gathered primary data on more than 12.9 million global transactions for more than 1.2 billion units, from more than 60,000 suppliers.

TrusTrace’s ability to aggregate, validate, and standardize supply chain data across various ecosystems ensures that brands have access to up-to-date, high-quality data — a critical enabler for making informed decisions to manage supply chain and brand risk, ensure compliance, and drive more sustainable practices. The test pilot aligns with TrusTrace’s vision of empowering brands to know, prove and improve the impact of their supply chain.

Unlocking the Benefits of Digitized Supply Chains
The Trackit™ test pilot aims to not only analyze interoperability of a multiparty system; but also to provide a foundation for supply chain innovation by enabling:

• Efficient data sharing: Streamlining collaboration across diverse stakeholders, from suppliers to brands.
• Informed decision-making: Providing brands with real-time visibility into their supply chains to address environmental and social risks effectively.
• Credible sustainability reporting: Ensuring brands can meet emerging legislative and regulatory requirements with robust and verified data.

Fashion for Good announced "Closing the Footwear Loop," a major initiative bringing together 14 leading fashion and footwear brands and their existing circularity programmes to tackle the industry's complex circularity challenges. This collaborative project aims to enable the transformation of footwear's current linear "take-make-dispose" model into a circular one, driving innovation across the value chain.
 
Participating brands include: adidas, DEICHMANN, Dr. Martens, Footwear Innovation Foundation (affiliated with FDRA), Inditex, lululemon, ON, Otto Group, Puma, Reformation, Target, Tommy Hilfiger, Vivobarefoot, and Zalando.
 
Footwear: A Complex Challenge
The global footwear industry churns out 23.8 billion pairs of shoes  annually, a figure that highlights both its scale and its environmental footprint. Each shoe is composed on average of more than 60 different components , ranging from fabrics and plastics to rubber and adhesives, intricately assembled to meet performance, aesthetic, and cost demands. This complexity, however, hinders the adoption of circular practices, leaving the sector lagging behind in circular innovation compared to other areas of fashion.
 
While consumers and the industry alike are increasingly calling for more circular solutions, the reality is stark: the most recent studies conclude that approximately 90% of footwear ends up in landfills , contributing to an ever-growing mountain of waste. Unlike other areas of fashion where innovation has been more readily integrated, footwear's multi-material construction and complex design complicate efforts to sort, disassemble, or recycle effectively.
 
This challenge is exacerbated by a lack of reverse logistics infrastructure and the absence of design principles that prioritise circularity. Current practices largely focus on linear production models — manufacture, use, and discard — failing to address the lifecycle of products. The sector's lag in scaled innovation compared to apparel underscores the urgency for systemic change, as the environmental consequences of inaction continue to mount.  
 
While this complexity presents a significant hurdle, brands are already exploring innovative solutions, including material science advancements and take-back programs, to address these challenges and pave the way for more circular footwear.

These individual efforts complement the collaborative work within “Closing the Footwear Loop”, creating a synergistic approach to driving industry-wide change.

Fashion for Good is working with ecosystem partners The Footwear Collective, Global Footwear Future Coalition (GFFC), and Global Fashion Agenda to drive a collaborative approach across the industry.  
 
Closing the Footwear Loop was born out of Pioneering the Future of Footwear and addresses multiple key intervention points: lack of end-of-life infrastructure, complex multi-material designs, and a need for unified circularity approaches. This project will deliver:
 

• Detailed mapping of European footwear waste streams (in collaboration with Circle Economy), providing crucial data on volumes, materials, rewearability, and recyclability. (Report & business case assessment due 2025)
• A roadmap towards circular footwear design, developed with Fashion for Good Alumni circular.fashion, outlining principles for material selection, durability, recyclability, repairability, and responsible chemical management. (Guidelines due 2025)
• Validation of end-of-use innovations, including trials and impact assessments, to overcome current bottlenecks and drive industry-wide adoption. (Recycled material outputs due 2026)

The European Commission’s communication on e-commerce - adopted by the college of Commissioner’s today- rightly acknowledges the growing challenges posed by the surge of direct-to-consumer imports, particularly through online marketplaces. Non-compliant and unsafe products undermine consumer safety, environmental sustainability, and the competitiveness of law-abiding businesses. The urgency of this issue is underscored by findings from the REACH for textiles project, which revealed that 16% of 400 tested products failed to comply with EU legislation. These figures highlight the critical need for stronger enforcement measures to prevent unsafe products from reaching EU consumers.

To address these concerns, enforcement of the Digital Services Act (DSA) and the Digital Market Act (DMA) must be strengthened, ensuring that e-commerce platforms assume legal responsibilities for the products they offer as well as fair competition in the single market is guaranteed. Additionally, the removal of the de minimis rule and frontloading parts of the Customs Code reform is critical to rapidly closing loopholes that allow non-compliant goods to enter the EU market unchecked. Enhanced coordination with Member States and industry stakeholders can increase the effectiveness of our enforcement efforts. Investment in digital tools such as the Digital Product Passport is essential to increase transparency, safeguard fair trade practices, and reinforce consumer trust.

EURATEX welcomes the Commission's decision to take coordinated action, together with the Consumer Protection Cooperation Network, against Shein. The association is also pleased to collaborate on a Digital Fairness Act to strengthen consumer protection in the digital sphere.

EURATEX fully supports the Commission’s commitment to stricter enforcement and urges immediate implementation of these measures to create a level playing field and ensure a safe, sustainable, and competitive e-commerce environment. Director General Dirk Vantyghem concluded: “With billions of garments entering the EU every year, we simply need a more solid system to monitor compliance of these products. EURATEX is looking forward to working together with the European Commission to achieve these important goals.”

The Aachen-Dresden-Denkendorf International Textile Conference 2025 will take place on November 27 and 28, 2025 at the Eurogress Aachen.

The conference program includes plenary lectures and themed sessions in the areas of

• Sustainable Textiles and Circular Textile Economy
• Bio-based Fibers
• Synthetic High-Performance Fibers
• Artificial Intelligence in the Textile Sector
• Textile Production
• Smart Textiles & Applications
• Textiles for Medicine & Health Care
• Technology Transfer & Start-up Pitches
• Fiber Composites and Lightweight Construction
• Best-Practices – Examples from Collaboration Projects between Academia and Industry
• Functionalization & Finishing

Those who want to contribute to the conference program and submit an abstract for a talk or poster presentation, find further information about the conference and the call for abstracts (including the submission form) on the conference website.

The Call for Abstracts for oral presentations ends on May 5, 2025.
The Call for Abstracts for poster contributions is open until June 31, 2025.