From the Sector

The final program will provide valuable information on the various use-opportunities for cellulosic fibres through a policy overview, a special session on sustainability, recycling and alternative feedstocks, as well as the latest developments in pulp, cellulosic fibres and yarns. In addition, examples of non-wovens, packaging and composites will offer a look beyond the horizon of conventional application fields.

You can expect to see the “Top 6” candidates of the “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year 2022” in Cologne. For the second time, the innovation award will be granted to the innovative cellulose fibre industry for developing new technologies and applications. All producers and inventors along the entire value chain from feedstock to the final product are invited to join the competition. The Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year 2022 Award will be voted for by conference delegates as well as online participants on the afternoon of 2 February.

The internationality of this Cellulose Fibres gathering is reflected in its colourful line-up of international speakers. 42 speakers from 12 countries will demonstrate the differences in regional development paths and their transferability to other areas.

You can view the final program here.

Indorama Ventures Public Company Limited (IVL), a global sustainable chemical company, has been awarded the Platinum Medal by EcoVadis Sustainability Assessment. The company also achieved first place in ChemScore, which ranks the world’s 50 largest chemical companies’ environmental credentials.

EcoVadis, a leading rating agency focusing on sustainability in the supply chain, awarded IVL its Platinum Medal, one of the highest awards for sustainability performance. IVL ranked in the top 1% of all companies assessed worldwide, with above industry-average performances in all four assessment areas, including environment, labor & human rights, ethics and sustainable procurement. IVL has continuously improved its ranking over five years, from the top 3% that it achieved in 2017.

ChemScore, which assesses one of the world's biggest chemical companies’ environmental impact and management of hazardous chemicals, is a respected sustainability benchmark in the chemical sector. IVL ranked 1st among 50 chemical companies accessed.

Mr. Yash Lohia, Chief Sustainability Officer at Indorama Ventures, said, “Recognition by EcoVadis and ChemScore marks another milestone in IVL's sustainability journey. We view sustainability not only within our business, but also across our supply chain. Working with suppliers to improve practices and supporting our customers to achieve sustainability targets helps build the sustainability mindset throughout our sector. This collective action contributes toward the UN Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs). The awards are dedicated to our teams as they continue to do better in achieving our vision of being a world-class sustainable chemical company making great products for society.”

• Focus now on digital fair platform

The PERFORMANCE DAYS team regrets having to cancel at short notice the physical edition of PERFORMANCE DAYS which was scheduled to take place on December 1-2, 2021 at the Messe München exhibition center. Right up until today, the event organizers of PERFORMANCE DAYS were in the final stages of preparations for the fair. The goal of being able to realize a fully booked fair with a portfolio like in pre-pandemic times seemed to be within reach. The political regulations agreed in Bavaria from November 19, 2021 and the heavily restricted constraints associated with an incidence of 1000 have far-reaching consequences for PERFORMANCE DAYS. As a result of the current sharp rise in the number of infections in Munich, the planned winter edition must now be cancelled as a precaution. The focus now is now completely on the digital fair on December 1 and 2, 2021.

The new measures are scheduled to come into effect in Munich from the middle of this week, which would lead to very short-term changes. The organizers of PERFORMANCE DAYS therefore see themselves in the responsibility to enable a minimum of planning security as well as a responsible handling of the given situation with this decision.

“Exceptional situations require exceptional decisions – making these all the more difficult. After experiencing a very successful and surprisingly well-attended fair with the Functional Fabric Fair by PERFORMANCE DAYS in Portland, Oregon last week, we have tried everything possible up to the last moment and firmly believed that we would finally set a further positive milestone with the physical edition of PERFORMANCE DAYS in Munich. We fulfilled all the requirements, updated our hygiene concept several times to comply with the dynamically changing measures and took all the necessary precautions for a safe event. Unfortunately, current developments do not allow us to host the trade fair event next week, since the undisputed top priority is the protection and health of our visitors. Now our focus turns to the full implementation of the Digital Fair on December 1 and 2, 2021”, explains Marco Weichert, CEO of PERFORMANCE DAYS

Focus on digital platform
The PERFORMANCE DAYS team is now investing all its efforts into implementing the Digital Fair on December 1 and 2, 2021. As part of THE LOOP, those interested have the opportunity as of now to view online the fabric innovations and news for the Winter Season 2023/24, this year’s Focus Topic “Sustainable Nylon” and the latest color trends. In the Marketplace, visitors will be able to view the numerous exhibitor products, including the PERFORMANCE FORUM’s curated sustainable fabric highlights. In order to present the fabrics to visitors as realistically as possible in terms of feel, design and structure in digital form, the PERFORMANCE FORUM has been equipped with new 3D-technology, including innovative tools such as 3D images, video animations and downloadable U3M files. Throughout the Digital Fair, exhibitors and fair visitors can look forward to extensive networking opportunities. For example, as part of the extensive digital supporting program on December 1, with various expert talks, discussion rounds and speakers via livestream, moderated by Charles Ross live from the studio. On December 2, the “sustain & innovate” conference on this year’s Focus Topic “The Sustainable Future of Nylon” will kick off with discussions and panels, moderated by Astrid Schlüchter, Editor-in-Chief of SAZsport and SPORTSFASHION by saz.  

A very special thank you goes out to the entire PERFORMANCE DAYS community with its exhibitors, visitors and partners for their active support, trust, loyalty and understanding in these still extraordinary times. The team looks forward to the Digital Fair on December 1 and 2, 2021 and further ahead to meeting you all personally on April 27 and 28, 2022 at the summer edition of PERFORMANCE DAYS live in Munich.

Indorama Ventures Public Company Limited issued a THB 10 billion triple-tranche Sustainability-Linked Bond, showcasing the company’s long-standing commitment to sustainable growth. It is the largest SLB issued in Thailand and the first offered to both institutions and high-net-worth investors.

The bond is part of IVL’s financing strategy across a range of instruments linked to the company’s sustainability targets. It is aligned with internationally accepted standards including International Capital Markets Association’s (ICMA) Sustainability-Linked Bond Principles and the Loan Market Association’s (LMA) Sustainability Linked Loan Principles.

The SLB is linked to IVL’s performance of reducing GHG emissions intensity by 10% by 2025 (from a 2020 base), increasing recycling of PET bale input to 750,000 tons per year by 2025, and achieving 25% renewable electricity consumption in 2030.

The triple-tranche structure includes 5-, 7-, and 10.5-year tenors, offering coupons of 2.48%, 3.00% and 3.60% per year respectively, targeting asset managers, commercial banks, insurance companies, cooperatives and high-net-worth individuals. With the orderbook peaking at over THB 17.8 billion due to strong interest in the sustainability-linked instrument, oversubscription was around 3x over the planned issuance amount of THB 6 billion with a green shoe option of THB 4 billion. In view of the strong orderbook from the investors, the company decided to exercise the green shoe option and increased the issuance to THB 10 billion, setting a new benchmark as the largest SLB transaction in Thailand. IVL appointed Bangkok Bank, Kasikorn Bank, Krungthai Bank, Siam Commercial Bank, and The Hongkong and Shanghai Banking Corporation Limited, Bangkok Branch as arrangers and bookrunners for the transaction.

On 23 September 2021, the bond was assigned an AA- rating and a “stable” outlook by TRIS Rating following a strong recovery of petrochemicals and derivatives and IVL’s growing profitability.

Under the terms, all tranches must purchase Energy Attribute Certificates (EAC) or voluntary carbon offsets in the event of failure to meet the sustainability performance targets (SPT). The testing dates for tenors with a maturity of 5 and 7 years are 31 December 2025, and 31 December 2030 for the 10.5-year tenor. SPT performance will be independently verified upon the testing dates.Proceeds for the issuance will be used to finance IVL’s corporate working capital and refinance existing debt.

In recent years, IVL secured loans linked to improvements in the company’s sustainability performance as a global leader in environmental, social and governance (ESG) integration. These included Thailand’s first Green Loan of USD 200 million and EUR 200 million from Japan’s Mizuho Bank, Thailand’s first cross-border Sustainability-Linked Ninja Loan worth USD 225 million from 16 institutions in Japan and a Blue Loan of USD 300 million arranged by International Finance Corporation and funded by Asian Development Bank and DEG.

• From C.L.A.S.S. ICON 2021 to Special Project at WHITE Milan, the streetstyle Portuguese brand shows urban outfits for everyday heroes fighting for the environment, with a holistic approach to sustainability

After being rewarded with the 2021 C.L.A.S.S. Icon Award, the Portuguese brand Duarte is ready to present its Spring/Summer 2022 collection developed with C.L.A.S.S. ecohub support. The streetwear designer Ana Duarte has worked in close contact with the Milanese hub in order to create a 40 pieces collection where the approach to materials, suppliers, new business models and communication could include and support a holistic view of the sustainable values aligned with style, performances, look and touch and Duarte identity.

The inspiration behind the collection is the superhero Tadao - Ana Duarte’s dog, an English Cocker Spaniel - which is the World Keeper fighting against the environmental issues mankind has generated. Like a protector of sustainability, it battles modern monsters as Smog Man, Fire Man, Deforestation Man and Wave man, who respectively represent the issues of air pollution, climate change, forest destruction and water overconsumption. A very simple, direct and engaging way of talking about hot topics and simple, direct solutions.

The collection is made of 20 outfits, mainly unisex apart from some of them typically feminine as the crop tops. Hints of bright red and mustard yellow are alternated with denim, grey and pale azure tones, blending in with the colorful prints. Accents of black - used in inserts or as piping - seem to emphasize the outline of the garments. The different textures of the materials create a sense of movement, further enhanced by the unique patterns. All the garments’ prints are exclusively designed by the designer, following each collection inspiration: this time, they recall urban landscapes and the appeal of big metropolis, with Tadao as protagonist in prints, patches and ankle socks.

Among the most representative Duarte outfits we find:

• A matching sweater with trousers made of Newlife™, a yarn 100% made In Italy coming only from post- consumer, traceable plastic bottles.
• A unisex oversized bomber is crafted from Newlife™, lined with precious 100% Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei fabric by Gianni Crespi Foderami and matched with printed neoprene hoodie and shorts.
• Long-panelled unisex coat and trousers made with ReLAST® denim by Candiani, a responsible textile featuring a premium recycled stretch yarn, ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei. The coat is lined with a fabric by Gianni Crespi Foderami in 100% Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei, a new generation material made from the smart-tech transformation of cotton linter.
• The same sustainable stretch yarn is implied in the responsible tulle by Iluna Group, and featured in a shorts and top women’s ensemble, paired with a neoprene printed bomber. The tulle is skillfully matched with 100% Tencel™ back in the loop fabric by Maeba International underneath it.

Ana Duarte is part of a new generation of designers with a new approach to sourcing and production: her research goes into different kind of business models to fit her responsible innovation and style needs at the same time. That’s why in her collection we can find amazing and unique combination of organic, recycled, Back in The Loop, innovative materials that are the right choice for the look&touch and the performance she’s looking for. The result is cool yet respecting people and the environment in full traceability thanks to certified and sometimes even circular solutions. Working with components from various sources and business models requires a certain expertise and a particular sensibility we find in Ana Duarte’s design solutions and in her responsible interpretation of streetwear.

From the 09-11^th of October, CHIC will take place with around 500 fashion and lifestyle brands on 53,000 sqm in the National Exhibition & Convention Center in Shanghai and offers a perfect overview of the fashion innovations in all fashion areas of the next season.

Chinese consumers place increasing value on sustainable products, the topic of "sustainability" is present in all areas of CHIC, in cooperation with WGSN the latest trends in sustainable fashion S / S 22 are shown. Together with China Fashion and WWD, companies that produce particularly sustainably are honored as part of the "Pursuer of excellence in sustainability" event.

The organizers put a special focus on the expansion of digital tools for the trade fair participants, which were used in the run-up to the trade fair for intensive visitor marketing and at the trade fair to optimally network supply and demand, WeChat plays a central role here. The CHIC WeChat mini program has been expanded and integrates the CHIC e-catalog, tailored to the needs of exhibitors and visitors.

The next editions of CHIC will take place from 3-5^th of November 2021 in Shenzhen and from 9-11^th of March 2022 in Shanghai.

With the organIQ BLEACH system the CHT Group was the first textile chemical supplier, who offered an ecological alternative to potassium permanganate as a bleaching treatment for Denim. Today, CHT's organIQ products reach beyond the limits of the standards and are state of the art in ecological jeans production worldwide.

In recent years, CHT has continued to research and further develop the organIQ system to find enhancements to the organIQ range that further optimise the system from an ecological point of view and at the same time provide even more variable and broader application possibilities.

organIQ EMS Jeans (Ecological Modular System for Jeans treatment) is based on several modules and every module corresponds to a treatment step. These steps can be mixed and matched in various ways and flexible orders to achieve a great deal of looks and effects.

The new EMS Jeans family supports most modern denim finishing processes. By using selected organIQ products together with water saving nebulization technologies, extremely low water consumptions can be achieved.

Due to this technology, all relevant treatments can be realized at room temperature which is a great energy saving opportunity. Moreover, the pollution of wastewater with toxic substances can be drastically reduced in comparison to common, previously applied denim treatments.

• Create truly unique yarn designs: with up to 6 colors from a large predefined color range and infinite combinations of twisting & air entanglement
• Endlessly recyclable yarn solution - available in both standard PA6 and 75% recycled content EqoCycle PA6 yarn
• Efficient and flexible - all colors in stock to shorten lead-time; customized lot sizes

B.I.G. Yarns brings inspirational design freedom to high-end loop-pile contract and automotive carpets with the unveiling of ColorMind. The innovative yarn technology is B.I.G. Yarns’ first venture into a two steps yarn collection, offering a unique solution for creating multi-color PA6 yarns for any carpet design.

Available from mid-June 2021 in both standard and EqoCycle 75% recycled content yarn, designers are invited to work closely with B.I.G. Yarns experts to realize the designs they have always wanted. Combinations of variable levels of twisting and air entanglement, using up to 6 colors at once, elevate design possibilities beyond current limitations.

The ColorMind color bank features predefined colors, always in stock, meaning short lead times. Manufacturers can also benefit from customized lot sizes and bobbin length, creating even more flexibility and design freedom. To preview a taster of the potential directions opened up for loop-pile carpets, B.I.G. Yarns has used the technology to achieve its own “Optica” dot effect and “Illusion” wave effect as inspiration for customers’ design explorations.

“ColorMind offers never-seen yarn diversity to support a new level of design sophistication in high-end carpet segments. We’re very proud and excited to enter into two steps yarns with a solution offering something truly special, the result of intensive dedication from our design and development teams,” comments Emmanuel Colchen, General Manager, B.I.G. Yarns. “ColorMind combines our strengths in delivering high-performance, more sustainable yarns to fit the evolving demands of these segments, underpinned by our expertise in color sequencing and color mixing. We’re looking forward to exciting collaborations and innovative, eye-catching designs for future loop-pile carpets.”

ColorMind PA6 yarns are based on a unique Solution Dyed Nylon yarn and are suitable for Class 33 certification (heavy commercial use). The EqoCycle yarn version is mainly based on post-industrial waste and supports contract and automotive carpet manufacturers with a drop-in circular solution to reduce the ecological footprint of their end carpets.

• Monforts customer Kipaş has been selected as the sole denim manufacturing partner in the €6.7 million European Union-funded New Cotton Project, involving the brands adidas and H&M, working in a consortium with suppliers, innovators and research institutes.

Kipaş, based in Kahramanmaraş, Turkey, is currently installing its third Monforts Montex stenter along with a third Monfortex compressive shrinkage system in a combined configuration dedicated to denim production.

This follows the successful installation and commissioning of the second Montex and Monfortex lines at the Kahramanmaraş plant in 2018, which Kipaş Vice Chairman of the Board Ahmet Öksüz said had immediately exceeded expectations.

“We performed a very thorough technical investigation based on the latest Industry 4.0 analysis before the purchase, to determine what we needed, and the Monforts technology met all our requirements,” he said, in an interview with Textilegence magazine. “The Monfortex is equipped with a variety of features not found on classical shrinkage machines and the production can be monitored from beginning to end. It also exceeded our expectations in energy cost savings.”

Kipaş subsequently received a special certificate from Monforts in recognition of its exceptional utilisation of the technology to its full potential.

The latest Montex stenter now being installed at Kipaş is a 12-chamber unit with a working width of 2 metres featuring all of the latest automation features. The Monfortex unit, also with a working width of 2 metres, is in a ‘double rubber’ configuration, comprising two compressive shrinkage units and two felt calenders in line. This allows the heat setting of elastane fibres and the residual shrinkage of the denim to be carried out simultaneously, for a significant increase in production speeds.

“Around 90-95% of denim fabric production now contains elastane fibres and the Monforts system has allowed us to simultaneously increase our production and quality in this respect,” Mr Öksüz said.

Regenerated cotton
For the next three years within the New Cotton Project, Kipaş will manufacture denim fabrics based on the cellulose-based fibres of Infinited Fiber Company of Finland, made from post-consumer textile waste that has been collected, sorted and regenerated.

The patented technology of Infinited, which is leading the consortium of 12 companies, turns cellulose-rich textile waste into fibres that look and feel like cotton.

“We are very excited and proud to lead this project which is breaking new ground when it comes to making circularity in the textile industry a reality,” said Infinited co-founder and CEO Petri Alava. “The enthusiasm and commitment with which the entire consortium has come together to work towards a cleaner, more sustainable future for fashion is truly inspiring.”

Take-back programmes
Adidas and H&M will establish take-back programmes to collect the clothing that is produced, to determine the next phase in their lifecycle. Clothing that can no longer be worn will be returned to Infinited, for regeneration into new fibres, further contributing to a circular economy in which textiles never go to waste, but instead are reused, recycled or turned into new garments.

The aim is to prove that circular, sustainable fashion can be achieved today, and to act as an inspiration and stepping stone to further, even bigger circular initiatives by the industry going forward.

The EU has identified the high potential for circularity within the textile industry, while simultaneously highlighting the urgent need for the development of technologies to produce and design sustainable and circular bio-based materials. Making sustainable products commonplace, reducing waste and leading global efforts on circularity are outlined in the European Commission’s Circular Economy Action Plan.

Fashion brands produce nearly twice as many clothes today as they did 20 years ago and demand is expected to continue growing. At the same time, the equivalent of one garbage truck of textiles is landfilled or burned every second. Most of the textile industry’s environmental problems relate to the raw materials used by the industry – cotton, fossil-based fibres such as polyester, and viscose as the most common man-made cellulosic fibre, are all associated with serious environmental concerns.

A typical manmade fiber system produces well over 600 tons of yarn a day. This equals in around 700 winders in filament yarn production or 3 systems in staple fiber production. These figures show just how important smooth production processes are.

If an error creeps into the process at any point, the daily waste increases dramatically. It is obvious that all yarn manufacturers want to prevent this happening to ensure their production facilities operate efficiently. Here, digitalization provides invaluable support. A Smart Factory that networks all steps within the production chain – including all auxiliary processes – identifies and reports quality deviations at an early stage. Yarn manufacturers can quickly intervene in the production process and hence avoid generating waste.

Digital solutions ensures process reliability
And the Smart Factory is also the focus of Oerlikon Manmade Fibers. Here, it comprises considerably more than the Plant Operation Center, a system that has been well-established within the market for many years now. “This is about absolute transparency and traceability. At the end of the process, yarn manufacturers are able to track at which position its finished textured yarn packages were spun and even have information on the processed granulate and the specific production conditions”, comments Ivan Gallo, responsible for digital products at Oerlikon Manmade Fiber. In this way, the Smart Factory ensures process reliability, above all. The data are automatically entered into the system and the product assessed at each stage of yarn production at which values and data are recorded – such as during visual inspection and when weighing. In the event of anomalies in the intermediate laboratory and quality checks, this allows yarn producers to intervene in the production process and correct these anomalies.

Information on the chip feeding, on the drying and on the masterbatch are available, as are data on the climate control, on the compressed air supply and on further auxiliary systems. With this, yarn manufacturers have at all times a complete overview of the ongoing production process, including comprehensive information on quality and production costs.