From the Sector

ISKO presented its 100% responsible platform, R-TWO™.

The denim ingredient brand hosted a special panel to discuss some of the advancements in technology that are making the fashion industry more responsible: from R-TWO™ to automated laser technology.

With the fashion industry being considered one of the world’s most polluting businesses-sectors, collaborating and knowledge sharing are key in finding solutions for a better future. Fully aware of this scenario, ISKO was the headline sponsor at The Drapers Sustainable Fashion Forum brings together responsible players to discuss what can be done to tackle the industry’s environmental and social issues through innovation and creativity.

Sharing knowledge, collaborating for change.
As evidence of its Responsible Innovation™ approach, ISKO presented the R-TWO™ program, its latest
responsible achievement. Stemming from the mill’s holistic vision, R-TWO™ represents a great example of how reducing, reusing, and recycling strategies can be implemented in a textile business to improve its  environmental performance.
The R-TWO™ reduces the amount of raw material sourced by using a blend of reused cotton and recycled polyester – both certified –, improving sourcing efficiency throughout the entire field-to-fabric production.
Reused cotton is certified with the Content Claim Standard – or CCS – from the Textile Exchange. As for recycled polyester, it can be either Recycled Claim Standard (RCS) or Global Recycled Standard (GRS) certified, depending on the content percentages. Together with this cutting-edge and fully responsible program, ISKO also uses automated laser
technology developed in partnership with Jeanologia.

“How technology can help make the fashion industry more sustainable”:
On March 11th, ISKO hosted a discussion about ways, to make the fashion industry more responsible
The panel was moderated by David Shah, consultant on design and marketing development, Publisher and CEO at Metropolitan Publishing BV and Associate Professor at ARTez (Arnhem, the Netherlands) and Associate Professor at Renmin University, (Beijing, China). The talk involved Keith O’Brien, ISKO Marketing & Business Development Manager, Victoria Soto, Jeanologia Custom Technology Consultant and Filippo Ricci, Fashion Open Studio Program & Partnership Manager.

Trevira will be joining the first BCFA Open Berlin pop-up exhibition, which will be held at the British Embassy on 6 May at the same time of Berlin Design Week (4 – 10 May 2020). The one-day fair is being organised by the British Contract Furnishing Association (BCFA), and members of the association will have the opportunity to display their products in the atrium of the post-modern embassy building.  

At the exhibition, specially invited interior designers and furnishers, along with purchasers from the contract market, will be able to find out more about the collections and products of high-end British manufacturers and textile houses, and attend interesting talks by two top specialists of the sector.

Trevira will be showing a selection of Trevira CS fabrics which were on display earlier this year at the Heimtextil 2020, where they featured in the special exhibition ‘Textile Future by Trevira CS’. These fabrics are permanently flame retardant and can be deployed in a wide range of applications, as Berlin design company studio aisslinger impressively showed in the exhibition at the Trevira stand. For the Heimtextil fair, the prestigious studio aisslinger design team worked together with Trevira, creating a concept that revealed just how attractive and playful Trevira CS fabrics can be in a variety of settings on the contract market, including hospitality, healthcare, workspaces, public spaces and transport.

Designers and architects who are interested in taking part in the event are welcome to register their details with Trevira.

At the Swiss-Egyptian Investment Forum which took place on February 3 in Cairo (Egypt), the Cotton & Textiles Holding Company and Rieter signed additional contracts related to the modernization program for the Egyptian textile industry.

Further Orders from Egypt:

• Contracts for additional projects signed in Cairo
• Order volume is around 30 million Swiss francs
• Order intake in the first half year of 2020 expected

The total volume of the contracts sums up to around 210 million Swiss Francs, including the contracts which had been signed at ITMA 2019 in Barcelona and which represent a volume of around 180 million Swiss Francs.

Rieter expects the full amount of orders to be booked as order intake in the first half year of 2020. So far, 165 million Swiss Francs have been booked.

Thanks to numerous new ramp-ups and the favorable portfolio of vehicle models supplied, Autoneum grew organically by 2.5% in a declining market. Adjusted for currency effects, Group revenue in Swiss francs amounted to CHF 2 297.4 million, 0.7% higher compared to the previous year.

For the second consecutive year, fewer vehicles were manufactured worldwide in 2019 than in the prior year. In particular, the persistently weak global economy and ongoing trade disputes have had an impact on vehicle demand. With only about 89 million vehicles produced, the market shrank by almost –6% compared to 2018. Despite this negative trend, Autoneum achieved an organic revenue growth of 2.5% through numerous production ramp-ups and a favorable mix of vehicle models supplied. Revenue consolidated in Swiss francs rose by 0.7% from CHF 2 281.5 million to CHF 2 297.4 million.

Revenue growth in North America, Asia and SAMEA region significantly above market The Business Groups North America, Asia and SAMEA (South America, Middle East and Africa) not only outperformed the negative market trend in each case, but also reported higher revenues compared to the previous year. In Europe only, the drop in automobile production caused a decline in revenue of the corresponding Business Group by –5.6% in local currencies. Business Group North America improved its revenue by 7.2% on a currency-adjusted basis, primarily driven by various production ramp-ups of German and Japanese vehicle manufacturers. Despite considerably fewer vehicles being produced in Asia, the Business Group increased its revenue in local currencies by 8.1% thanks to high-volume and new programs of European and Asian automobile manufacturers. Business Group SAMEA continued its growth course. Against the market slump in this region, revenue in local currencies and adjusted for inflation rose by 32.7%. This was mainly due to high-volume export programs in Turkey and South Africa as well as much higher production volumes compared to the previous year in the key SAMEA market of Brazil.

#Takelifebythehorns

Overcoming challenges. Thinking outside the box. Positive thinking. A vision of personal creativity. The advertising campaign for the Spring-Summer 2020 season is a manifesto for expressing the PINKO Woman. Determined, empowered, confident, making her own decisions. Always ready to take life by the horns.

A fiery sunset. A wilderness of mesmerising colours is the backdrop to Mert Alas & Marcus Piggott’s shots, which portray a femininity that is glamorous, gritty, rock, and never predictable. This visual symphony was shaped with a creative team that united stylist Vanessa Reid and creative director Riccardo Ruini with the new star, Lily Aldridge – model, mother and businesswoman – who embodies the beauty of the moment. “We chose Lily because she is the epitome of the PINKO woman”, explained Caterina Negra, image director of PINKO. “She is elegant, sophisticated, with a modern approach. She fills many roles without having had to sacrifice anything. She makes an impression living a life filled with different experiences, as demanded by the modern world”.

Fringes  and  a  masculine  jacket.  Bright  sequins  and  dark  leather.  Rodeo-style  boots,  belt  and  hat  are  teamed  with  sensual denim. This is Lily’s look, as she mounts a unique mechanical bull. It was made specially for the campaign, inspired by the shape and detailing of the Love Bag Mix Studs. An ultra-stylish clash of black and metal accompanies the Love Bag Puff, a new shape in soft quilted nappa leather with chevron motif and appliqué suede fringe. The  fastening  is  the  iconic  metal  buckle  with  Love  Birds.  Not  forgetting  micro-chains  and  studs  for  the  Mini  Love  Metal Fringes or rhinestone fringing for the Go-round version.

The looks are a spontaneous expression of femininity, where personality is key, and movement adds a new dimension to the images. It’s the PINKO message. To be in a safe place where you can be creative without being judged and where you are free to choose. #createyourownlife

Sustainability is part of SEEK’s internal make-up and has always been part of the team and community experience. Over 80 sustainable brands make up the brand portfolio, including players like Veja, Dedicated and Kings of Indigo. Experts will be sharing their experiences on this market-defining topic as well, with a host of live podcasts, talks and panel discussions, and will be shaping SEEK’s programme of content.
 
BIG PLAYER: the new SEEK Culture
 
SEEK is Europe’s most successful trade show for pop, street and sneaker culture. This is where the key players meet, where the looks of tomorrow are showcased, modelled and retold, where classics are celebrated, authenticity rules the roost and where icons take their positions alongside shooting stars. SEEK is essential participation for anyone looking to curate a modern, youthful and relevant range.

The shift from a niche event to a large trade show is now complete with a new logo and campaign design. SEEK has emerged from its transformation to reveal that its content and visual look are as relevant as ever!  

Together with creative agencies Karl Anders and Haebmau, the SEEK team has been working for weeks on the brand’s new branding. The result: a visual concept with a strong message.

“The handshake is the right imagery and commitment to our stance and that of the SEEK community.”

“SEEK stands for strength and business just as much as for communality and good vibes! ‘Get Along’ articulates a feeling of agreement, of moving forward and getting to grips with things. We all want to shape a positive future for our industry – as partners and by joining forces.”, explains Fashion Director Maren Wiebus.

CREATIVE CONNECTION: Karl Anders and Haebmau
 
The Hamburg-based agency Karl Anders, which was established by Claudia Fischer-Appelt and Lars Kreyenhagen, was commissioned to come up with the creative concept and design language for the logo and campaign.

“With the new look we are entering a new era for SEEK as a brand. Lots of brands have chosen a design using Helvetica in recent years,” says Claudia Fischer-Appelt, Creative Director at Karl Anders. “We are now signalling a clear shift in another direction. Confident, bold and independent. With the logo we are inviting the viewer to play with the linear layout in their head; we are breaking viewing habits, making a statement and revving things up a gear. SEEK, there it is.”
 
The artwork is the result of a process of in-depth debate with the SEEK brand that took place over several weeks both within the team and also with the support of lifestyle agency Haebmau. Workshops, research and analyses ultimately led to a new, strong brand identity. SEEK is focussed on both established and new players and stands for the WE.

“I have known SEEK since it was in its infancy, so to me it was always like a little brother of the large, successful PREMIUM. Quirky and different, always interesting but somehow not quite so imposing,” says Markus Bublitz, Executive Creative Director at Haebmau. “SEEK today is more grown-up, confident and sharper. Thanks to its position in the market, which it has conquered over the years, it no longer needs to please everyone but can afford to be controversial. This can offer space for new, creative ideas.”

SEEK is edgy, clean-cut and unpolished.

We are all about statement design, new classics, denim and sportswear. SEEK is the trade show event for the fashion community. SEEK knows who calls the shots; it boosts sales and is the place for the next generation of decision-makers to get together. Unlike all the others, SEEK is unconventional and the antidote to boring.

Der Textil vernetzt-Partner Hahn-Schickard hat ein neues Projekt zur Produktentwicklung mit der Ernst REINER GmbH & Co. KG begonnen.

Welche Notwendigkeiten und welche Möglichkeiten ergeben sich durch die Vernetzung mobiler Kennzeichnungsgeräte? Dieser Frage will die Ernst REINER GmbH & Co. KG aus Furtwangen zusammen mit dem Textil vernetzt-Partner Hahn-Schickard in einem gemeinsamen Projekt auf den Grund gehen.

Das 1913 gegründete Familienunternehmen Ernst REINER zählt zu den Marktführern von Stempeln und Kennzeichnungsgeräten in Europa sowie von OCR Druck- und Scan-Systemen in Deutschland. Die mobilen Kennzeichnungsgeräte kommen vornehmlich in Industrie, öffentlicher Verwaltung oder Logistik zum Einsatz, um Verpackungen, Kisten oder auch Paletten zu bedrucken. In der Textilindustrie sind Beschriftungen ebenfalls ein Thema. Bei der Produktion der Kennzeichnungsgeräte steht bei Ernst REINER die Erfüllung höchster Qualitätsstandards im Mittelpunkt, die etwa 200 Mitarbeiter umsetzen. Unter Einsatz neuer Technologien sowie moderner Produktionsanlagen steht das Unternehmen für eine wirtschaftliche und hochpräzise Fertigung.

Um den Mehrwert für Kunden und Unternehmen zu steigern, soll nun – aufbauend auf diesen Anwendungen – evaluiert werden, welche erweiterten Funktionen und Dienstleistungen vor allem für mobile Kennzeichnungsgeräte durch das Internet der Dinge konzipiert, implementiert und angeboten werden können. Mit den Kollegen von Hahn-Schickard wird dazu eine Kosten-Nutzen-Rechnung aufgestellt. Welche Möglichkeiten sich durch die Vernetzung der Belegdrucker bei Ernst REINER ergeben, wollen die Kollegen von Hahn-Schickard in einem 360°-Screening ermitteln.

C.L.A.S.S. discloses five key and influencing brands with unique outfits already available in the market, that demonstrate how smart materials are able to deliver eco hi-tech valuable innovations. 

Five, completely different, contemporary lifestyles!

Among the first adopters of E.C.O. Kosmos shines Gilberto Calzolari, a luxury prêt-à-porter brand Made in Italy with a responsible soul, whose style is represented by the demi-couture dress: fresh, glamorous and romantic. Precious fabrics, complemented by the highest quality in production techniques and tailoring craftsmanship, bear the hallmarks of a brand with a strong identity that is in tune with the needs of contemporary living and reclaims the values of environmental sustainability as well as elegance and excellence typical of luxury Made in Italy. Supported by the CNMI Fashion Trust due to its environmental committment and unique design, the brand chose two materials of the E.C.O. KOSMOS cross-collection for the SS 2020 presented during MFW: the E.C.O. AURORA 50% AMNI SOUL ECO® -50% Standard 100 by OEKO-TEX® certified Cotton canvas and the E.C.O. SONICA Newlife™ stretch satin.

Closed: the German brand, founded in1978, focuses on great designs, small details and pure quality to create understated and advanced denim looks totally handmade in Italy. Closed selected the new amazing Candiani ReLast line, the range of market fresh responsible denim products whose objective is to introduce a 100% transformed innovative solution. The partnership between ROICA™ and Candiani generated a very special ROICA™ yarn realized only for Candiani. A premium stretch yarn that is boasting a GRS (Global Recycled Standard) version 4 certification, thanks to its high percentage of recycled content and appropriated process of transformation.

Within the premium brand adoptions of Bemberg™ shines Martin Greenfield, one of the world's most renowned tailor company. The company, founded in 1977 by Martin Greenfield, realizes hand tailored men’s clothing to meet the requirements of innovative designers, specialty retailers, costume designers, stylists and individuals. For finest made-to-order as well as made-to-measure suits,100% built by hand in their Brooklyn Factory, they choose Bemberg™ Yarn Dyed Lining produced in Italy and Japan for its soft versatility, unique precious touch and exquisite comfort.

My.Suit: Since My.Suit was founded in 2008 in NYC, their philosophy has been simple: provide their clients with a better way to buy a suit.  Their made-to-measure suits and tuxedos offer a better fit than traditional off-the-rack alternatives by accommodating as many different body types as possible, and can be made in a variety of fabric and style options to suit individual needs.  My.Suit utilizes a vertical business model: fabric mill, suit manufacturing, and retail locations, to provide a quick delivery time at an attractive price point. My.Suit has been using Bemberg™ lining to add style and comfort to their suit jackets for over a decade.  With a wide range of colors and designs, Bemberg lining complements their extensive fabric selection and helps us to create visually stunning suits that feel great and provides a personalized option to their clients.

un-sanctioned™ is an innovation-driven performance running apparel brand newly launched in September, 2019; founded on the belief that it’s time for running to give back to the environment all runners take so much joy from.  In partnership with Miti-Spa, un-sanctioned™ has developed and launched with two initial sustainable performance running fabrics called [ BottleKnit™ ] — a 100% recycled polyester made from plastic bottles. And [ WasteKnit™] — a 100% upcycled polyamide made from industrial waste blended with ROICA™ EF yarn for uncompromising smart stretch performance.

• A naturally advanced collection, a cutting-edge coloration technology, and a brand-new collaborative business model.
• TINTEX stands out at PERFORMANCE DAYS, the functional fabric fair for the sourcing in sports, work and corporate wear.
• Performance Days, Munich, November 13th -14th, 2019 –booth C08 / hall C1

The leading jersey manufacturer brings a new holistic and sustainable approach spun from the company’s DNA and woven in the mission to create Naturally Advanced fabrics.

The WEME collection - A/W 20/21
The new statement collection goes beyond intellectual and spiritual individual needs to embrace a communal vision blurring ‘we’ and ‘me’, ‘conscious’ and unconscious’, responsible innovation and creativity. Developed around the concept sub-collections ID, Superego and EGO, the range comes in electric and active tones and combines smart ingredients and processes to drive innovation by harnessing the company’s unique dyeing and finishing expertise.

The new fabrics are made from a mix of new generation fibers that enhance free movement such as REFIBRA™ by Lenzing, Q-NOVA® by Fulgar and the unique GRS certified premium stretch ROICA™ EF.  The smartcel™ powered ID sub-collection is defined by striped structures that simulate flaws on initially smooth and perfected surfaces and provides soothing, anti-inflammatory effects thanks to the inclusion of zinc oxide, provides soothing, anti-inflammatory effects. The “EGO” selection comes in rich purples, calm lilacs and feminine yellows and features natural fibers such as organic wool. The “Superego” is available in unique styles and colours, achieved thanks to Colorzen® and the Naturally Clean® finishing. Together these enhance the natural beauty of cotton and cellulosics eliminating harsh treatments and optimizing clean surfaces with vivid colors, and an exquisitely smooth hand feel. Transformed materials take such as ECOTEC® by Marchi&Fildi take the lead saving up to 77.9% in water compared with regular cottons.

COLORAU®
TINTEX’ cutting edge color technology which received the Sustainable Solution award in the May 2019 edition of Techtextil debuts in Munich. COLORAU®  was created with a Portuguese consortium constituted by premium realities and gives life to responsibly colored fabrics with antimicrobial properties, using natural dyes extracted from different types of natural plants resources that do not use salt in the production.

COLORAU® uses only compounds of natural origin such as thyme, boldo, peppermint, chestnut and gambier in the production of functional and sustainable textiles in a variety of fibers such as cotton, lyocell and wool. An eco-efficient and low temperature surface treatment improves the affinity between the textile substrate and these natural compounds. The technology features a selection of “performing” extracts for appropriate color fastness to light and washing as well as color durability and antimicrobial functionality.

CO.LAB

TINTEX is proud to announce CO.LAB, a smart and collaborative business model and a totally new supply chain developed in coordination and with the support of C.L.A.S.S.. The first sustainable and PETA-Approved collections are 100% traceable without compromising on quality and style. As co-leader and founding actor, TINTEX has invited Becri, Confetil and Pedrosa & Rodrigues, 3 leading companies, each producing specialized garment styles. The new collections are:

1. The ECOPERFORMER by TINTEX with Confetil collection meets the values of millennials and generation Z consumers. Sustainable, multitasking, gender neutral and designed to fit contemporary urban lifestyle. The collection comprises modern soft sports garment with fully transparent innovation values. The range flexes its muscles with the best sustainable and high-performative materials for comfort, ease and style. All selected fabrics are PeTA APPROVED VEGAN. Designed to win.
2. ‘LEGACY H20’ by TINTEX with Becri is 100% traceable and focuses on responsible water-management.
3. ‘SENSING SMARTS’ by TINTEX with Pedrosa & Rodrigues, a next-to-skin soft and sensual range of materials enhancing wellbeing and comfort while harnessing an innovative and responsible way of using chemical products for a greener and safest future.

• Order intake of CHF 524.5 million after nine months
• Order intake for a major project from Egypt booked in October 2019
• Market situation remains challenging
• Real estate sale in Ingolstadt successfully completed
• Outlook 2019

The cumulative order intake recorded by Rieter Group in the first nine months of 2019 of CHF 524.5 million (2018: CHF 749.8 million) was down by 30% compared to the prior-year period. In the third quarter of 2019, order intake was CHF 146.2 million (Q3 2018: CHF 238.0 million).

Order Intake for a Major Project from Egypt Booked
On October 7, 2019, Rieter booked the order intake for the first six projects with Cotton & Textile Industries Holding Company, Cairo (Egypt) of around CHF 165 million. This amount is thus not included in the figures for the third quarter of 2019 and will positively affect the fourth quarter. The sales are anticipated to be realized in the 2020/2021 financial years. The order includes deliveries of compact and ring spinning systems and it is part of a comprehensive modernization program for the Egyptian textile industry.

Market Situation Remains Challenging
The demand for new machinery remained at a low level in the third quarter of 2019. The primary reasons are existing overcapacity in the spinning mills, the trade conflict between the USA and China, as well as political and economic uncertainties in other regions of importance to Rieter. Rieter's market share continues to be at the level of around 30%.

Real Estate Sale in Ingolstadt Successfully Completed
Rieter completed the real estate sale in Ingolstadt (Germany) to GERCHGROUP of Düsseldorf (Germany) on September 13, 2019. Rieter expects a non-recurring profit contribution from this transaction on a net profit level of around EUR 60 million.

Outlook 2019
Rieter estimates significantly lower sales for the year 2019 as a whole compared to 2018, and expects a significant drop in the result from the ongoing business. EBIT and net profit are anticipated to be significantly above the levels of the previous year due to the non-recurring profit contribution from the sale of real estate in Ingolstadt (Germany). The cost-cutting measures introduced have been implemented to a great extent.