From the Sector

As of April 1, 2024, Eva Baumann takes over the position of CEO in CHT. Together with Prof. Dr. Klaus Müller, who acts as CFO, she forms the management of the internationally active CHT Group.

Until 2020, Eva Baumann had worked for many years in a leading global company in the chemical industry. She has been part of the CHT Group since January 2020 and, as Group Vice President, has headed the Business Field General Industries at Group level. As CEO, Eva Baumann is now responsible for Marketing, Sales, Corporate Strategy, Human Resources and Sustainability.

Eva Baumann has ambitious plans for the future of the CHT Group: "Together with my management team, I will continue to expand the CHT Group as a successful and profitable specialty chemicals group. We focus on what we have been particularly good at for over 70 years: turning innovative ideas into specialty applications. These ideas help our customers to secure their success and at the same time make a sustainable contribution to development. Our customer proximity and the outstanding quality of our products and services set us apart in the market.

• Combination of financial and non-financial reporting as evidence of the central role of sustainability
• Measurable progress in achieving sustainability and climate targets
• Recognized for sustainability and prepares for the European Green Deal

The Lenzing Group has published a combined annual and sustainability report for the first time, reaffirming the strategic importance of social and environmental responsibility for the company. With the title “Ready to join?”, Lenzing would like to extend an invitation to all customers and partners to join forces to renew the textile and nonwovens industries and bring about positive change.

“This annual and sustainability report is also an invitation to find answers together. Lenzing is working tirelessly to make the industries in which it operates even more sustainable and to drive the transformation of the textile business model from linear to circular. For this transformation to be successful, further efforts by the entire industry and a policy designed to ensure a level playing field for sustainability pioneers are needed,” says Stephan Sielaff, CEO of the Lenzing Group.

The results for the 2023 financial year were already published. The report was once again prepared in digital form and is now available.

Infinited Fiber Company has successfully completed a two-part development financing round totaling 40 million euros, with significant investments from new investors Inditex, TTY Management, Youngone and Goldwin, in addition to existing ones.

The new investors are Inditex Group, the parent company of Zara and other brands, and TTY Management B.V., an asset management company privately owned by Tadashi Yanai, Chairman, President and CEO of Fast Retailing. Outdoor clothing manufacturer Youngone (YOH CVC Fund 1 Limited Partnership) and Japanese sportswear manufacturer Goldwin (GOLDWIN Play Earth Fund Investment Limited Partnership) are also among the new investors who joined in the recent second closing of EUR 27 million.

The first part of the development financing round, closed in summer 2023, included investments from existing investors. Apparel companies H&M Group, adidas, BESTSELLER, and Zalando further reinforced their long-term commitment to Infinited Fiber. Also investment company VTT Ventures participated in the first closing, and investment companies Security Trading and Nidoco AB in both closings of the round.

After the development financing round, Inditex, TTY Management and H&M Group are the largest shareholders of Infinited Fiber Company.

AkzoNobel has announced that Mrs. Jaska de Bakker, Mrs. Ute Wolf and Mr. Wouter Kolk will be nominated for appointment to the company’s Supervisory Board, while Mr. Byron Grote – currently Deputy Chair and Chair of the Audit Committee – will be nominated for a fourth term of one year.

Mrs. De Bakker is a financial leader with experience in strategy, governance and ESG. Currently a board member at various companies, she was previously CFO at Royal FrieslandCampina and at Royal HaskoningDHV.
 
Mrs. Wolf is a seasoned finance professional with more than 25 years of experience in financial management and corporate planning. She served as CFO of Evonik Industries AG for ten years and, prior to that, she held several senior positions within various industries and companies.
 
Mr. Kolk is the current CEO of Ahold Delhaize Europe and Indonesia. With more than 32 years of experience in commercial, operational, supply chain, strategic and general management roles, he brings a wealth of knowledge in different geographies and businesses.

Subject to the approval of his re-appointment, Mr. Grote will lead the supervision of the external auditor selection process, whereby the external audit firm of AkzoNobel will be replaced, starting with the audit of the 2026 financial statements. His re-appointment also ensures continuity during the change of the PWC lead partner in charge of the AkzoNobel account, as of the audit of the 2024 financial statements.  

The appointments and re-appointment will be put to shareholders for approval at the Annual General Meeting being held on April 25. Mrs. Pam Kirby, who is completing her second four-year term, will step down as member of the Supervisory Board as per the same date.

The testing service provider and research partner Hohenstein is joining the Innovation Park for Artificial Intelligence (IPAI) in Heilbronn. There are already points of contact with AI applications in some interdisciplinary research projects. In addition, there is the cooperation with the Munich-based start-up Sizekick and its AI-based technology for size recommendations, which aims to reduce size-related returns in online fashion retail.

"We expect the connection to the IPAI AI network to provide us with valuable impulses to remain fit for the future," explains Hohenstein CEO Dr. Timo Hammer, "This unique platform brings together a wide variety of players with their experience and knowledge. New ideas, projects and even products can be generated with great dynamism in the network as an intelligent response to future requirements. Because one thing is clear - artificial intelligence is THE key technology of the future".

The Innovation Park for Artificial Intelligence (IPAI) in Heilbronn (www.ip.ai) sees itself as an innovation platform for applied AI and a German lighthouse project with international appeal. The center is intended to map the entire AI value chain, from the qualification of specialists to the application of ethically responsible AI. The aim is to use the AI ecosystem to bring together companies, start-ups, research institutions, scientists, and public institutions and to secure Germany's digital independence and competitiveness in a key future technology.

Refashion, a textile industry’s eco-organisation, has renewed its authority approval until 2028. 6 years during which it will continue to transform the industry in keeping with the objectives set by the French Ministry of Ecological Transition and the French Ministry of the Economy, including the objective to collect 60% of CHF (clothing, household linen and footwear textiles) placed on the market by 2028. This new period is reflected in an ambitious road map and significantly increased investment. Nearly 1.2 billion euros, financed by the marketers, will be spent on transforming the industry during this new period of authority approval.

Determined to achieve the objectives set out in the ambitious specifications set down by the Secretary of State at the Ministry of Ecological Transition, Berangère Couillard, Refashion has worked on a road map with all of its stakeholders involved in the transformation that is underway. Maud Hardy, nominated as the eco-organisation’s CEO in January 2022, started a collaborative working method that will continue throughout this new period to support areas that are key in this transformation. In the next few months, projects will begin and will visibly highlight the progress made in the three phases of a product’s life cycle: production consumption, regeneration.

Production

• Recognising eco-design initiatives through the eco-modulation of the fees paid by marketers (durability, environmental information labelling, integration of recycled materials). For marketers, these initiatives should represent the scheme’s cornerstone. The aim is to involve all stakeholders in reducing the environmental impact of products.

Consumption

• As from 2023, Refashion will spend 5 million euros minimum per year in awareness-raising activities and on information to the general public by supporting an array of local authority initiatives.
• The launch of a repair fund in 2023, in particular to prolong the usage of textiles and footwear products. More than 150 million euros will be invested between 2023 and 2028 to change the habits of the French population to increase repairs by 35% (guideline target by the ADEME 2019).

Regeneration

• Accelerating clothing, household linen and footwear collection, in particular thanks to an operational mix in the sector. Funding traditional sorting operators will remain central, but Refashion will also develop an additional operational system in order to achieve the collection target of 60% of products placed onto the market (versus 34% in 2021).
• 5% of fees paid to Refashion will go towards the redeployment/reuse funds to provide support for reuse within the remit of stakeholders in the Social and Solidarity Economy. In addition to this funding, additional funding arrangements open to all stakeholders will be established. The total budget throughout the authority approval period represents 135 million euros.
• 5% of fees, i.e., 58 million euros in 6 years, will be spent on R&D to help achieve these milestones in order to industrialise the recycling of used CHF: recyclability that is considered during the design stage; automated sorting and recycling.

TrusTrace, a SaaS company with for product traceability and compliance, has announced the completion of a (U.S.) $24 million growth investment led by Circularity Capital, a specialist investor in businesses that enable the circular economy, with participation from existing investors Industrifonden and Fairpoint Capital.

According to Shameek Ghosh, CEO and Co-Founder of TrusTrace, the new investment will enable the company to further accelerate its global expansion ambitions by strengthening its presence in key markets, deepening product innovation and expanding collaborations – helping to create a global network where all value chains are traceable, circular, and fair.

Traceability has accelerated in importance and momentum as a key enabler of sustainable transformation, as evidenced by TrusTrace’s five-fold growth in subscription revenue in the 27 months since the previous growth round by Fairpoint Capital and Industrifonden in 2021, preceded by seed funding from Backing Minds in 2019.

With more than a billion products now tracked through the platform, TrusTrace has established itself as a business-critical solution for supply chain traceability. TrusTrace customers include adidas, Brooks Running, Tapestry, Asics and many more. TrusTrace also plans to offer its services to regional and mid-size brands in 2024.

Software group Everfield has acquired the Swedish software reseller “SoCom Scandinavia AB” (SoCom Scandinavia). The previously independent reseller is now a subsidiary of German “SoCom Informationssysteme GmbH” (SoCom), which Everfield acquired early 2023. SoCom Scandinavia distributes SoCom’s ERP system for the commercial laundry industry in Scandinavia. SoCom is among Europe’s leading providers in this segment and with this acquisition is further expanding its market position in the Nordic countries.

“By acquiring SoCom Scandinavia, we have successfully completed the first so-called bolt-on acquisition for one of our portfolio companies”, says Oscar Koberling, Acquisitions Manager at Everfield. In a bolt-on acquisition, the company being purchased is integrated into an existing portfolio company. “We focus on long-term sustainable growth and work closely with the management of our portfolio companies to identify the right targets”, Koberling highlights. “With the addition of SoCom Scandinavia, SoCom can now further strengthen the sales and support in this region and thereby continue to foster growth in Scandinavia.” With its Enterprise Resource Planning (ERP) software “TIKOS”, the German software developer SoCom from Krumbach enables laundries of any scale to achieve end-to-end process management.

SoCom Scandinavia distributes the “TIKOS” laundry software in Sweden, Finland, Norway, Denmark and Iceland. The company was founded in 2017 by the sole shareholder Anna Johansson, in close cooperation with the German SoCom Informationssysteme GmbH. “I myself come from the commercial laundry industry and was therefore able to convince myself of the performance and flexibility of the TIKOS software in practice”, says Anna Johansson. “Our success in the past years shows that many laundries in Scandinavia share this assessment. In the future, we will work even more closely with our German colleagues to further expand our market share in the region.”

Johansson and her team will continue to be available to customers at the existing location. “Since establishing SoCom Scandinavia, Anna and her team have already won and supported a plethora of well-known clients for our software”, emphasizes SoCom’s CEO Michael Wieser. “By integrating SoCom Scandinavia, we can streamline our processes even further. Our main goal remains to offer the best possible service to our clients.”

With its steadily growing software and service portfolio, SoCom has been operating in the laundry industry for over thirty years and is a market leader in the German-speaking region. In total, SoCom’s products are used in over 350 laundries across 17 countries.

This year’s edition of ITMA ASIA + CITME proved to be a success for the exhibiting VDMA member companies. Measured by booked square metres, Germany had the largest contingent, among the foreign exhibitors. More than 40 VDMA member companies were exhibiting their innovative products in Shanghai.

Dr. Janpeter Horn, chairman of the VDMA Textile Machinery Association noted: “Although facing a difficult market situation, this year’s edition of ITMA ASIA + CITME has exceeded the expectations, both in terms of the number of visitors and the quality of the talks. The significant number of foreign visitors to the fair was particularly pleasing.”

Solutions were demonstrated for more sustainable textile productions by most of the exhibitors, and here the VDMA members presented their technologies for saving water, energy and raw materials under the heading “Smart technologies for green textile production.”  

Dr. Uwe Rondé, CEO, Saurer Intelligent Technology AG explained: “Saurer is satisfied with both the number of visitors and the quality of the discussions. Our booth was full from morning to evening with customers focused on latest technologies within the three mega trends: recycling, automation and digitalisation. Although machine utilisation in the spinning mills is still well below average, people are already gathering information and thinking about what to invest in once the market recovers.”

Benjamin Reiners, owner of Reiners + Fürst stated: „This year’s ITMA ASIA + CITME has exceeded our expectations by far. Especially the first day - a Sunday - has brought many high-quality customers and exclusively decision makers to our booth. We estimate about 20% international customers mainly from Bangladesh, Egypt, India, Iran, Pakistan, Uzbekistan and Vietnam. All customers agreed that the market situation at the moment is difficult, capacity usage is between 50-75% in the ring spinning sector and improvement is expected not before the 2nd half of 2024. Nevertheless the general spirit is very positive.“

“This ITMA ASIA was a great success for Trützschler. We welcomed a large number of Chinese visitors to our booth, as well as a significant number of interested international visitors”, said Dr. Bettina Temath, Head of Global Marketing Trützschler Group SE.

Georg Stausberg, CEO of the polymer processing solutions division and chief sustainability officer of the Oerlikon Group stated: „We can look back on a successful show where we were able to meet many of our customers not only from China, but also from Pakistan, India and Indonesia, for example.”

“A very well-attended trade fair, with interesting discussions, great innovative topics, in line with the modern and rapidly developing China" noted Wolfgang Schöffl, head of product line weaving machines and member of the extended management, Lindauer Dornier.

The VDMA Textile Machinery Association and VDMA China were present at the fair, to support the members e.g. with regard to IPR. With the help of a VDMA expert and a contracted law firm, the member company Sahm submitted a complaint application for patent infringement disputes during the exhibition to the onsite IPR office. Both parties, Sahm, and the Chinese company, that used patented design without permission reached an agreement: The Chinese company had to stop displaying functions and designs involving patent infringement on site which meant the removal of some structural parts and the covering of key components protected by patent protection.

Dr. Harald Weber, managing director of VDMA Textile Machinery concluded: “Asia, and China in particular, represent the primary foreign markets for the VDMA member companies in the sector. The Chinese market is the main destination for their exports. Other major export destinations in Asia include India, Pakistan, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan. ITMA ASIA + CITME provides a unique platform to showcase technologies for customers directly in Asia. The VDMA member companies are looking forward to the coming edition of the fair from 14 to 18 October 2024 in Shanghai.”

The latest survey of VDMA members' subsidiaries in China gives reason to hope that the economic situation in the Chinese textile industry could also improve significantly in the second half of the year. In addition, European textile machinery manufacturers are urged to be present on the most important market and at the trade fair and to offer Asian customers most advanced technology for their demanding challenges.

Global Fashion Agenda (GFA) released the 2023 edition of The GFA Monitor — a report to guide fashion leaders towards a net-positive fashion industry. The second GFA Monitor has been updated to include the latest guidance and insights from over 25 industry organisations in one cohesive publication. For the first time, the report includes new data insights from the Fashion Industry Target Consultation - drawn from over 900 industry participants in 90 countries.

The GFA Monitor is an extensive resource that presents expert insights on the status of the industry, clear actions to take, and proven best practices. In a time of poly crisis when the implementation of sustainable practices is challenged, GFA is supporting the industry by consolidating an abundance of available solutions that can be applied today.  

The tool is grounded by the sustainability framework laid out in the Fashion CEO Agenda, featuring in-depth guidance according to the five sustainability priorities: Respectful and Secure Work Environments, Better Wage Systems, Circular Systems, Resource Stewardship, and Smart Materials Choices. Embracing additional expert knowledge from other industry organisations, each priority includes insights from GFA’s Impact Partners: Fair Labor Association, Social & Labor Convergence Program (SLCP), Ellen MacArthur Foundation, Apparel Impact Institute, and Textile Exchange, respectively.

The 2023 publication presents new findings from the Fashion Industry Target Consultation (FITC), launched by GFA and the United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP) in November 2022, which invited stakeholders from across the global value chain to share their thoughts on the performance indicators and milestones that the industry must strive to meet. The FITC indicates a very positive sentiment from participants, but action and positive impact from that action is yet to be measured. Overall, the data reveals that the majority of the 900 participants supported industry alignment on the 27 action areas proposed in the consultation and remarked that they are actively engaging with the industry to drive progress in the respective areas. The report further illuminates the level of industry ambitions per priority and the areas where more aligned action areas are needed.