From the Sector

Members of the British Textile Machinery Association (BTMA) can look back on 2025 as a year marked by notable technological advances and continued progress in global trade, despite an uncertain and volatile market.

“Our members have been very active over the past 12 months and this has resulted in new technologies for the production of technical fibres and fabrics, the introduction of AI and machine learning into process control systems and significant advances in materials testing,” says BTMA CEO Jason Kent. “There’s real excitement about what can be achieved in 2026 as we look ahead to upcoming exhibitions such as JEC Composites in Paris in March and Techtextil in Frankfurt in April.”

Composites momentum
Cygnet Texkimp, for example, has been nominated for a 2026 JEC Innovation Award for its collaboration with McLaren Automotive on the ART rapid tape-deposition system. Capable of depositing dry fibre tapes at up to 2.5 metres per second with exceptional precision, ART reduces scrap, shortens cycle times and delivers structural improvements already being realised across McLaren’s composite-intensive vehicle platforms.

Cygnet is the world’s largest independent manufacturer of prepreg production machinery, alongside a broad portfolio of handling and converting systems for the composites industry. 

In addition, the company is licensed to design and build the DEECOM® composite recycling system developed by fellow BTMA member Longworth Sustainable Recycling Technologies. DEECOM® is a zero-emission, low-carbon pressolysis solution that uses pressure and steam to reclaim fibres and resin polymers from production waste and end-of-life composites.

Other BTMA members supporting the composites sector include Emerson & Renwick, which applies deep expertise in print, forming, vacuum and coating technologies to carbon fibre processing, while Airbond is a pioneer in pneumatic yarn splicing for high-value carbon and aramid fibres. Slack & Parr meanwhile supplies high-accuracy gear metering pumps across the manmade fibre market, where they process a wide range of polymers and fibres with uniformity and consistency.

Gel spinning
Further resource savings in high-end fibre processing have been realised by Fibre Extrusion Technology through the introduction of a new process for manufacturing ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene (UHMWPE). The company’s patented solvent extraction system exploits supercritical carbon dioxide. 

“Current UHMWPE systems are huge in scale and extremely complex,” says FET R&D Manager Jonny Hunter. “That makes the supply chain inflexible and limits new product development. These disadvantages have been addressed in our new FET-500 series lab and small-scale gel spinning system.”

Quality assurance
Alongside materials innovation, BTMA members are also reshaping quality assurance via digitalisation and data-driven manufacturing. Shelton Vision has significantly advanced automated fabric inspection with the latest generation of its WebSpector system. Using patent-pending image processing techniques, WebSpector now enables reliable real-time defect detection on complex patterned fabrics, including those subject to distortion, shear or stretch during processing.

Building on its leadership in plain fabric inspection, the Shelton system now adapts to intricate designs such as camouflage and delivers clean, stable images that allow full fault detection at high running speeds. While automotive interiors and one-piece woven airbags remain key applications, WebSpector systems are increasingly being supplied to producers of performance wear, fashion, denim, outdoor upholstery, mattress ticking, window dressings and even carbon fibre composites.

Continuous colour
A comparable shift from intermittent checks to continuous monitoring is taking place in colour management through the work of C-Tex. Traditionally reliant on periodic swatches, mills can now apply laboratory-level colour measurement directly in production. 

“What we are doing is taking a lab capability and putting it into production,” says Managing Director Rob Ricketts. Working with Shelton, C-Tex has combined inline defect detection with continuous colour variation analysis, enabling both parameters to be assessed simultaneously.

Importantly, this data is now shared across supply chains. When fabrics reach garment, automotive or furniture manufacturers, downstream users know exactly what they are receiving and whether it meets their requirements. 

“This visibility is a big breakthrough,” says Ricketts. “It’s well established in automotive, but now it’s coming to textiles too.”

Intuitive testing
Advanced testing remains another cornerstone of BTMA innovation. James Heal has long supplied advanced textile testing systems and its latest Performance Testing collection focuses on speed, simplicity and intuitive operation for parameters such as airflow and water resiliency. Water repellency testing has similarly been improved with the TruRain system which dramatically reduces wastewater and energy consumption.

During 2025, the company also introduced the new Martindale Motion.
The new nine-station instrument with individual lifting heads now offers the flexibility to run each station independently for carrying out different textile tests simultaneously. Once set up, the Martindale Motion can be left running with the sample holders automatically lifting at the required evaluation points, freeing up the operator’s time to do other work without the need to return until the abrasion or pilling test is fully completed, including overnight.

Colour accuracy is addressed by the VeriVide DigiEye system which provides non-contact colour measurement and digital imaging, enabling objective data capture and rapid sharing across organisations. Recent developments include 100% LED illumination, integrated dust filtration, software-controlled lighting geometry and automated image capture, improving both precision and efficiency.

Tactility challenge
The tactile sensation experienced when touching and manipulating fabric is meanwhile a critical aspect of textile evaluation, but to date has been very subjective. One of the biggest challenges faced by designers and manufacturers is in describing and sharing information about fabric aesthetics before manufacturing, or without the costly and time-consuming process of transporting physical samples.

These limitations are being overcome with the new Sentire fabric handle tester from Roaches International.

“No two people will describe how a fabric feels in the same way and the lack of a common language to describe fabric tactility poses communication challenges across the complex global fashion and textile supply chain,” says Roaches International MD Sean O’Neill. “The Sentire has been developed to allow our customers to objectively measure qualities such as softness, smoothness, drape and stiffness and market response during 2025 has been extremely positive.”

Convergence
Bringing these developments together, Jason Kent sees a clear strategic direction emerging. 

“Across the BTMA we’re seeing a convergence of advanced machinery, intelligent software and rigorous testing,” he says. “Our members are responding to today’s challenges around efficiency, sustainability and quality, while laying the foundations for a more transparent, data-driven and resilient textile manufacturing sector. Despite market uncertainty, there is genuine confidence about what lies ahead for British textile machinery and its global customers.”

The European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) takes on new responsibilities under the EU's One Substance, One Assessment (OSOA) Package. 

Working closely with other EU agencies and authorities, ECHA will lead efforts to build a common data platform on chemicals, streamline assessments, and strengthen collaboration to better protect human health and the environment.

The Agency is committed to driving this initiative forward and will deliver its new responsibilities with transparency and efficiency.

Dr Sharon McGuinness, ECHA’s Executive Director said:
"The OSOA package represents a significant step towards a more efficient chemical safety system in Europe. By joining forces with our partner agencies and authorities, we will create a system that anticipates risks, and brings together existing knowledge, and supports innovation.  

Our shared goal is clear: a safer, more sustainable Europe through collaboration and science-based action.’’  

Under this legislation, ECHA is entrusted with significant new tasks, reinforcing its role in delivering coherent, predictable, and transparent chemical assessments. These changes will enhance efficiency and improve consistency across EU chemical legislation.

Building a common data platform on chemicals 
The OSOA package also introduces the Regulation on common data platform and monitoring and outlook framework for chemicals. 

ECHA will manage this platform in close collaboration with other EU bodies – including the European Environment Agency (EEA), European Food Safety Authority (EFSA), European Medicines Agency (EMA), and the European Agency for Safety and Health at Work (EU-OSHA) under the governance scheme and implementation plan adopted by the European Commission. 

The platform will integrate information from multiple sources and provide services such as: 

• Information Platform for Chemical Monitoring;
• Repository of reference values;
• Study notifications database; and
• Databases on standard formats and controlled vocabularies, regulatory processes, legal obligations, chemicals in articles or products, alternatives to substances of concern, and environmental sustainability-related data.

This will create a one-stop-shop for chemicals data, improving transparency and accessibility for regulators, industry, and the public.

New tasks for ECHA
Beyond the data platform, ECHA will:

• Develop a monitoring and outlook framework;
• Support early warning and risk identification;
• Generate new data when needed; and
• Promote the use of scientific research to strengthen chemical safety.

ECHA will also take on scientific and regulatory responsibilities previously managed by other bodies, including:

• Preparing restriction proposals under the RoHS Directive (hazardous substances in electrical and electronic equipment), and processing exemption requests;
• Setting and reviewing limit values for persistent organic pollutants in waste under the POPs Regulation; and
• Updating guidelines on how to perform the benefit-risk assessment of the presence of certain hazardous substances in medical devices under the Medical Devices Regulation.

Nonwovens and the 9th Wonder of the World
Palm Jebel Ali – an ambitious artificial archipelago off Dubai’s Jebel Ali coast – is making a high-profile return after years of dormancy, which is good news for the construction industry and for the manufacturers of geotextiles and other engineered nonwovens who will be involved.

Initially launched in 2002, the project was to be a palm-shaped island even larger than its famed sibling, Palm Jumeirah (billed as ‘The 8th Wonder of the World’), but suffered delays and suspension following the global financial crisis of 2008. 

After remaining largely on hold for over a decade, it was formally relaunched in 2023, with construction resuming in 2024 under a revised master plan targeting completion around 2028. 

The renewed vision for Palm Jebel Ali is bolder and more sustainable. At about 13.4 square metres, the island is now designed to be more than twice the size of Palm Jumeirah, adding nearly 100 kilometres of new coastline to Dubai’s map. It includes multiple fronds, interconnected islands, luxury residential units, hotel and resort zones, marinas and extensive waterfront amenities. 

A key aim is to blend high-end living with smarter infrastructure, environmental consciousness and modern urban planning, marking a step beyond the purely spectacle-driven island developments of the past. 

Palm Jumeirah
Completed around 2006/07, Palm Jumeirah required massive engineering works to transform marine seabed into a stable platform for residential, hotel and infrastructure development. Underlying that ambition was a need to manage soil, water and structural stability in a highly demanding environment of waves, tides and fine and sometimes mobile sediments. 

One company heavily involved in this work was INDEX™26 exhibitor Fibertex, as the supplier of engineered fabrics for several of Palm Jumeirah’s containment, separation, drainage and stabilisation functions.

For the breakwater protecting Palm Jumeirah’s outer edge, a specific nonwoven grade was used as a stabilising geotextile. In effect, this fabric was laid between structural rock layers or between rock and sand zones to prevent migration of fine particles, filter subsurface flows, and preserve the intended layering.

In a marine rock-fill breakwater, designers traditionally achieve filtration with graded stone filters alone. That approach is robust but demands precise gradation and thicker sections. A high-strength, puncture-resistant nonwoven delivers the same filter/separator function in a thinner interface, while accommodating differential settlement and allowing free water flow to relieve pore pressures. 

The breakwater itself is substantial – the Palm’s protective seawall runs around 12 kilometres in length and roughly 200 metres wide, forming a barrier that must resist wave and storm action while preventing seabed scour and internal erosion. 

The geotextile layer thus acts as a demarcation/interface between rock armour and the inner sand and gravel fill materials in order to maintain the mechanical integrity of the breakwater and reduce mixing of layers under hydraulic stress. 

The involvement of Fibertex in the project, however, went further various grades of the company’s nonwoven geotextiles were specified for the reclaimed island’s internal infrastructure, including the roads on each frond as well as drainage systems and landscaping.

Landmarks
Nonwoven geotextiles have become one of the most influential yet least recognised technologies shaping the construction of modern landmarks. Through careful control of fibre type, density and bonding method, engineers have created materials that can filter, separate, drain and reinforce in ways once unimaginable. They are now used wherever earth meets infrastructure – between layers of aggregate, behind retaining walls, beneath pavements, along riverbanks and below rail beds. Their dual nature is significant – they are strong enough to withstand immense stresses, yet porous enough to allow water to flow freely.

The idea of using textiles in soil is not new and even the Romans stabilised roads with layers of organic fibre, but nonwoven geotextiles have made it possible to apply the same principle on a scale suited to 21st Century construction. These materials first came to prominence in the 1970s and 1980s when engineers sought reliable separation layers for highways and embankments. Since then, they have quietly found their way into some of the world’s most recognisable civil works.

Runways and tunnels
In the runways of airports, for example, carefully layered structures of base course and treated subgrade lie below the concrete surface. Between these, a nonwoven layer acts as a bond breaker and separator, preventing the upward movement of fine particles and relieving stresses that could cause cracking at the surface. 

This small intervention can extend the runway’s life by decades and reduce the frequency of costly closures. At such sites, the stakes are high – aircraft weighing hundreds of tons depend on uniform support and impeccable drainage and the nonwoven layer ensures both.

In tunnels and underground rail networks, nonwovens perform a different yet equally critical function. Behind the waterproofing membranes that line the excavation, they serve as protective cushions, allowing the flexible membranes to accommodate ground movement without puncture. They channel seepage water into drainage systems, keeping the tunnel interior dry and safe. The great subterranean arteries of modern cities – their metros, deep stations and cut-and-cover highways – are lined with these unseen fabrics. When commuters move effortlessly through stations that might once have dripped with moisture, they are benefitting from the quiet performance of a nonwoven layer only a few millimetres thick.

Erosion control
In dam and reservoir construction, nonwoven geotextiles meanwhile provide filtration and erosion control in zones where fine soils meet coarse drainage aggregates. Their role here is to hold back the soil while allowing water to pass, preventing the formation of internal erosion channels that can threaten stability. Some of the most ambitious water projects in the world have relied on them to safeguard the transition between impervious cores and drainage layers. Decades after installation, many continue to perform flawlessly – illustrating their durability under constant load and hydraulic pressure.

Coastal and river protection projects, too, have embraced nonwovens. Beneath rock armour, breakwaters or sand-filled tubes, they stabilise the subsoil and prevent scour by wave action. When severe storms strike, these layers can be the difference between an intact shoreline and a collapsed embankment. In ports and estuaries where space is limited, nonwovens have enabled the construction of vertical quay walls and reclaimed land by controlling the migration of fines and maintaining hydraulic balance. They are the quiet custodians of modern coastlines, extending the life of structures that face the full force of nature. 

Quiet strength
When Palm Jebel Ali rises from the Gulf, it will stand as a further reminder that the most visionary feats of engineering depend not only on grand designs but also on the quiet strength of the materials beneath them. 

Nonwoven geotextiles, though unseen, remain key tools of such progress and in playing their part in shaping the 9th Wonder of the World, will once again reaffirm their place at the foundation of modern civilisation’s most ambitious landscapes.

• Borealis has entered a strategic partnership with BlueAlp, a chemical recycling technology leader based in Eindhoven, the Netherlands
• Under the agreement, Borealis will transfer its majority stake in Renasci to BlueAlp, and acquire a direct 10% stake in BlueAlp to support its future growth and scale-up
• The strategic move reflects Borealis’ evolving engagement in the chemical recycling value chain
• Operating chemical recycling assets is for BlueAlp a logical next step that accelerates technology innovation and strengthens the licensing proposition 

December 16, 2025, Borealis announced a strategic partnership with BlueAlp, a leading chemical recycling technology company headquartered in Eindhoven, the Netherlands. The partnership will see Borealis transfer its majority share in Renasci, a chemical recycling company based in Ostend, Belgium, to BlueAlp, while acquiring a 10% share in BlueAlp to support its future growth and scale-up.
 
Renasci licensed BlueAlp’s technology to create a 20 kt p.a. scale-up plant, which BlueAlp engineered, constructed, and has supported throughout its operation in recent years. Moving from supporting operations to directly operating the asset is a logical next step in BlueAlp’s growth. This will accelerate technology innovation, establish a robust platform for producing high-quality circular feedstock, and further strengthen BlueAlp’s licensing proposition.
 
Since entering into Renasci, Borealis has led the development to become one of the few operating chemical recycling plants in Europe. Following the agreement, BlueAlp will lead the next phase of development and further advancement of Renasci, while Borealis continues to develop customer solutions based on chemically-recycled feedstock.“Borealis’ direct support comes at a pivotal moment in the chemical recycling industry, where rapid expansion of capacity is needed to achieve recycled content targets. Their market experience and materials expertise will support our growth and position us well to turn more plastic waste into high-quality circular feedstock,” says Valentijn de Neve, BlueAlp CEO.
 
This collaboration helps Borealis and BlueAlp’s customers and partners across the value chain to prepare for the EU’s upcoming Packaging and Packaging Waste Regulation (PPWR) in 2030, which is expected to increase demand for recycled materials suitable for contact-sensitive applications like food and cosmetics packaging, such as those based on chemically recycled feedstock.
 
”The deepening of the partnership with BlueAlp, combining assets and technology, will accelerate progress in chemical recycling for the industry,” says Stefan Doboczky, Borealis CEO. “It will allow Borealis to accelerate serving our customer base with an ever-broadening range of polymers based on chemically recycled feedstock. This transaction is fully in line with Borealis We4Customers Strategy, helping customers to deliver on their sustainability ambitions, whilst strengthening the innovation and operational focus of the group.”
 
The financial details of the transaction are not being disclosed.