From the Sector

Vision and technology are the key ingredients of a ground-breaking school blazer that is showing how businesses can move to a circular textiles economy.  
 
While many brands are grappling with the complexities of inevitable legislation and engrained business models, leading school uniform producer, David Luke, has launched a fully recyclable ‘circular’ school blazer that is designed to be recycled through Project Re:claim, the world’s first commercial-scale polyester recycling plant.
 
Project Re:claim is a joint venture between the UK’s largest charity textile collector, The Salvation Army, and leading circularity specialists Project Plan B. The plant opened in the UK in January 2024, and presents huge opportunities for brands to transition to textile-to-textile manufacturing models.
 
David Luke’s circular blazer has been introduced to the brand’s successful Eco-uniform range which has sold over 1.7 million Eco-blazers in the last decade. Up until 2023, David Luke’s Eco-blazer, like many recycled garments, has been made from recycled plastic bottles. But the company has been working with Tim Cross, CEO of Project Plan B and the Circular Textiles Foundation, to bring the 100% recyclable blazer to market.
 
Tim Cross said: “David Luke has grasped the opportunity to embed 100% recyclable and 100% recycled garments into their range, starting with the school blazer. We now have the technology to enable their blazers to be recycled without any separation of the garment, making it an efficient recycling process. The team at David Luke has worked tirelessly with their manufacturers to create a blazer that does not compromise on design or quality, and yet is much kinder to the environment.”
 
Every detail from the lining, buttons and zips to the inter-linings and adhesives, has been re-thought and re-designed to meet the demands of an everyday school blazer and to recycle the garment once it reaches its end-of-life. Up until now, when the blazers have eventually been handed down to siblings, or given to the local charity shop, there had been no end-of-life solution for polyester garments apart from incineration. Now, Project Re:claim can recycle the blazer to produce polyester pellets, which are then spun into yarn to be used for future David Luke circular blazers.
 
Cross continues: “David Luke has the vision to create a fully circular range, and we have the potential to supply recycled content. The possibilities are infinite in terms of the future of garment design and manufacturing.”
 
Kathryn Shuttleworth, Chief Executive of David Luke, said: “It is a natural next step for us to transition to a textile-to-textile model. We have been producing garments using recycled plastic bottles for 15 years, but we have always had an eye on developments in textile recycling and solutions for end-of-life garments.”
 
In 2020, David Luke was awarded the Queen’s award for Enterprise for Sustainable Development and in January 2023 the David Luke circular blazer achieved Circular Foundation Textile certification.
 
Shuttleworth added: “Our focus will always be on those essential ingredients for parents and children - style, durability and affordability. But we have a responsibility to change our business model to better protect children’s future and the environment. It has become our obsession to make uniforms that meet our customers’ demands. We are really excited about the future as we continue to develop our range.”
 
Majonne Frost, Head of Environment and Sustainability for Salvation Army Trading Company, said: “Our vision is to enable companies to produce uniforms, corporate wear, fashion garments and textile ranges using recycled polyester.  We have the infrastructure to collect donations at scale and we now need companies to step up. This is an opportunity for companies to make a commitment to significantly reduce their environmental impact, and David Luke are showing us how that is possible.”

The Trevira CS brand is celebrating its debut at Clerkenwell Design Week (CDW), which takes place in London from May 21-23 2024. The brand is particularly targeting interior architects, interior designers, and contract furnishers to present its innovations on sustainability. Trevira CS stands for flame retardant fabrics that have been tested for fire safety. They also offer numerous sustainable properties.

The London borough of Clerkenwell is home to more creative businesses and architects per square mile than anywhere else in the world, making it one of the most important design hubs in the world. To celebrate this rich and diverse community, Clerkenwell Design Week has created a unique opportunity to showcase the world's leading interior design brands. With more than 600 events in over 160 showrooms, more than 11 curated exhibitions, stunning installations, talks and a supporting program, CDW has established itself as the UK's leading design festival. The Trevira CS stand is part of the "German Collection - home to German Contemporary Design", which brings together a leading selection of renowned German brands.
 
The product range of flame-retardant Trevira® filament yarns now also includes 30 spun-dyed, UV-stable yarns, which are particularly suitable for outdoor use in fabrics in the hospitality sector and on cruise ships due to their high light fastness and UV resistance. They also score points for their sustainable properties, as the fabrics made from them can be produced in a more environmentally friendly way than textiles made from conventional yarns.

Trevira CS fabrics are also available in recycled versions. They consist of fiber and filament yarns that are obtained in various recycling processes. Fabrics made from these yarns can obtain the Trevira CS eco trademark. The prerequisite for this is a recycled content of at least 50%.

As the 2024 edition of Techtextil, the leading international trade fair for technical textiles and nonwovens, gets underway in Frankfurt, Beaulieu Fibres International is introducing its Sustainable Fibres Program to help reshape fibres for sustainable solutions.

Through the initiative the company is looking to gain deeper insights into the challenges encountered by customers across the value chain to identify opportunities to leverage its expertise to deliver impactful products and services.

Beaulieu has identified several conversation triggers for Techtextil 2024, including recyclable, high performance, renewable, bio-circular, co-developed and made in Europe fibres, to find out what matters most to customers in terms of targets, green initiatives and sustainability expectations.
The Sustainable Fibres Program serves as a charter to help Beaulieu Fibres International accelerate its ‘fibres that build futures’ campaign, by educating on existing solutions, reshaping products and creating partnerships to facilitate market cooperation on shared challenges.

In addition to leading the market within the framework of the European Green Deal, and alignment with the objectives of the proposed Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation, Beaulieu Fibres International is committed to achieving its own sustainability targets outlined in its roadmap known as ROUTE 2030.

Quickly becoming the benchmark for sustainability, circularity presents a simple solution for many of the world’s complex waste issues. However, in a quickly changing textile marketplace with increasing regulatory pressures, designing circular products can be anything but simple.

To help demystify this accelerating paradigm shift, the Designing for Circularity panel is coming to Portland’s Functional Fabric Fair, where expert panelists will inform and inspire the next generation of product designers and developers.

Scheduled for Wednesday, April 17th at 2:00pm and hosted by textile industry communications agency Formidable Media, the Designing for Circularity panel will bring together experts in materials sourcing, textile finishes, trims, sustainability, recycling, natural materials, and more, to help designers, product developers, and brand representatives make the choices needed to become leaders in the future of sustainable products.

“Fashion is regularly listed among the top five largest polluting industries in the world and our panel of experts hope to  help shape future design and sustainability decisions to mitigate fashion’s outsized impact on the environment,” said Scott Kaier, Founder and President of Formidable Media. “Informed and innovative design is the first step in creating circular products, so today’s designers will be instrumental in creating a cleaner, more sustainable future.”

Hand-picked from across the outdoor, fashion, lifestyle, and footwear industries, the Designing for Circularity panelists include:

• Daniel Uretsky, President, ALLIED Feather + Down
• Martin Flora, VP of Business Development, Green Theme Technologies
• Sarah Schlinger, R&D Commercialization Manager, Woolmark
• Sharon Perez, Senior Business Development Manager, Lenzing Group
• Brian La Plante, Senior Manager of Sustainability, YKK
• Theresa McKenney Director of Sustainability, NEMO Equipment

Archroma launched the ONE WAY+ to help mills and brands to improve their productivity and efficiency, and to reduce their environmental impact.

The program is a three-phase process of establishing the baseline, process design and implementation, and ongoing improvement. Tailor-made for selected customers, it draws on the expertise of a curated team of Archroma processing experts and leverages specialist tools and technologies, including Archroma’s ONE WAY Impact Calculator combined with Sustainability Improvement Program.

Mills that adopt Super Systems+ through the ONE WAY+ process can expect enhanced productivity and reduced resource utilization and utilities costs; in addition, also cleaner chemistry and the co-development of new aesthetics and functionalities. Participation in the ONE WAY+ process also indicates to brand partners that mills are committed to remaining sustainable by adopting global best practices and using products that are compliant with current and future regulatory requirements.

Brands that work with Archroma under ONE WAY+ will be supported with a roadmap to their sustainability targets. They will gain a better understanding of the sustainability status of their current suppliers and how this impacts their supply chain. Ultimately, the aim is to optimize efficiencies in the supply chain and connect with suppliers that are able to meet target sustainability commitments.

From base-line audit to results review, ONE WAY+ is usually carried out over 16 weeks, with a team of two or three Archroma experts working closely with the customer’s technical teams. Results achieved so far include the following:

• A textile mill in China, serving a top international sports and athleisure brand, cut its processing time by 30% while reducing water and steam requirements by 40% and achieving a 10% RFT improvement; and
• A textile mill in Peru, serving a leading American luxury fashion house, reduced water and steam usage by 20% while slashing processing time by 30%.
• A textile mill in Argentina, serving casual wear and performance apparel brands, reduced water consumption by 40% and steam usage by 20%
• A textile mill in India, serving some of the world’s largest homewares brands, improved productivity by 15% while achieving 95% right first time (RFT) processing and 0.5% quality rejection.

The “Cellulose Fibres Conference 2024” held in Cologne on 13-14 March demonstrated the innovative power of the cellulose fibre industry. Several projects and scale-ups for textiles, hygiene products, construction and packaging showed the growth and bright future of this industry, supported by the policy framework to reduce single-use plastic products, such as the Single Use Plastics Directive (SUPD) in Europe.

40 international speakers presented the latest market trends in their industry and illustrated the innovation potential of cellulose fibres. Leading experts introduced new technologies for the recycling of cellulose-rich raw materials and gave insights into circular economy practices in the fields of textiles, hygiene, construction and packaging. All presentations were followed by exciting panel discussions with active audience participation including numerous questions and comments from the audience in Cologne and online. Once again, the Cellulose Fibres Conference proved to be an excellent networking opportunity to the 214 participants and 23 exhibitors from 27 countries. The annual conference is a unique meeting point for the global cellulose fibre industry.  

For the fourth time, nova-Institute has awarded the “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year” Award at the Cellulose Fibres Conference. The Innovation Award recognises applications and innovations that will lead the way in the industry’s transition to sustainable fibres. Close race between the nominees – “The Straw Flexi-Dress” by DITF & VRETENA (Germany), cellulose textile fibre from unbleached straw pulp, is the winning cellulose fibre innovation 2024, followed by HONEXT (Spain) with the “HONEXT® Board FR-B (B-s1, d0)” from fibre waste from the paper industry, while TreeToTextile (Sweden) with their “New Generation of Bio-based and Resource-efficient Fibre” won third place.

Prior to the event, the conference advisory board had nominated six remarkable innovations for the award. The nominees were neck and neck, when the winners were elected in a live vote by the audience on the first day of the conference.

First place
DITF & VRETENA (Germany): The Straw Flexi-Dress – Design Meets Sustainability
The Flexi-Dress design was inspired by the natural golden colour and silky touch of HighPerCell® (HPC) filaments based on unbleached straw pulp. These cellulose filaments are produced using environmentally friendly spinning technology in a closed-loop production process. The design decisions focused on the emotional connection and attachment to the HPC material to create a local and circular fashion product. The Flexi-Dress is designed as a versatile knitted garment – from work to street – that can be worn as a dress, but can also be split into two pieces – used separately as a top and a straight skirt. The top can also be worn with the V-neck front or back. The HPC textile knit structure was considered important for comfort and emotional properties.

Second place
Honext Material (Spain): HONEXT® Board FR-B (B-s1, d0) – Flame-retardant Board made From Upcycled Fibre Waste From the Paper Industry
HONEXT® FR-B board (B-s1, d0) is a flame-retardant board made from 100 % upcycled industrial waste fibres from the paper industry. Thanks to innovations in biotechnology, paper sludge is upcycled – the previously “worthless” residue from paper making – to create a fully recyclable material, all without the use of resins. This lightweight and easy-to-handle board boasts high mechanical performance and stability, along with low thermal conductivity, making it perfect for various applications in all interior environments where fire safety is a priority. The material is non-toxic, with no added VOCs, ensuring safety for both people and the planet. A sustainable and healthy material for the built environment, it achieves Cradle-to-Cradle Certified GOLD, and Material Health CertificateTM Gold Level version 4.0 with a carbon-negative footprint. Additionally, the product is verified in the Product Environmental Footprint.

Third Place
TreeToTextile (Sweden): A New Generation of Bio-based and Resource-efficient Fibre
TreeToTextile has developed a unique, sustainable and resource efficient fibre that doesn’t exist on the market today. It has a natural dry feel similar to cotton and a semi-dull sheen and high drape like viscose. It is based on cellulose and has the potential to complement or replace cotton, viscose and polyester as a single fibre or in blends, depending on the application.
TreeToTextile Technology™ has a low demand for chemicals, energy and water. According to a third party verified LCA, the TreeToTextile fibre has a climate impact of 0.6 kg CO2 eq/kilo fibre. The fibre is made from bio-based and traceable resources and is biodegradable.

The next conference will be held on 12-13 March 2025.

Building on a renewed five-year strategy, Fashion for Good selects ten new innovators for its 2024 programme to receive tailored support validating their technologies. This cohort represents an increased focus on novel footwear material and recycling technologies, man-made cellulosics, and nylon recycling.

The 2024 Innovation Programme provides support based on the development stage and ambitions of each innovator, matching them with relevant industry partners to drive technology and impact technology and impact validation as well as investing activities.

The selected innovators joining the 2024 Innovation Programme are:

• Algreen Ltd: Algreen co-develops alternative materials from algae and biobased sources that can replace fossil-based products such as PU.
• Balena: Balena creates biodegradable partly biobased polymers for footwear outsoles.
• Epoch Biodesign: Epoch Biodesign is an enzymatic recycler of PA66 and PA6 textile waste.
• Fibre52: Fibre52 is a bio-based solution replacing traditional bleach prepared-for-dyeing and dye processes.
• Gencrest BioProducts Pvt Ltd: Gencrest works with various agri-residues to convert them into textile-grade fibres using their enzymatic technology.
• HeiQ AeoniQ: HeiQ AeoniQ™ is a continuous cellulose filament yarn with enhanced tensile properties.
• Nanollose - Nullabor: Nullarbor™Lyocell is developed from microbial cellulose which is converted into pulp pulp to produce a lyocell fibre with their partner Birla Cellulose.  
• REGENELEY:  REGENELEY pioneers advanced shoe sole recycling technologies by separating and recycling EVA, TPU, and rubber components found in footwear.
• Samsara Eco: Samsara Eco is an enzymatic recycler of PA66 and PET textile waste.
• SEFF: SEFF Fibre produces cottonised fibres and blends of hemp fabrics utilising a patented HVPED process.

Lightweight design is a key enabler for addressing the energy transition and sustainable economy. Following the liquidation of the state agency Leichtbau BW GmbH, a consortium consisting of the Allianz Faserbasierter Werkstoffe Baden-Württtemberg (AFBW), the Leichtbauzentrum Baden-Württemberg (LBZ e.V. -BW) and Composites United Baden-Württemberg (CU BW) now represents the interests of the lightweight construction community in the State.

The Lightweight Design Agency for Baden-Württemberg is set up for this purpose on behalf of and with the support of the State. The Lightweight Construction Alliance BW is the central point of contact for all players in the field of lightweight construction in the State and acts in their interests at national and international level. Professor Markus Milwich from the German Institutes of Textile and Fiber Research Denkendorf (DITF) represents the agency.

The use of lightweight materials in combination with new production technologies will significantly reduce energy consumption in transportation, the manufacturing industry and the construction sector. Resources can be saved through the use of new materials. As a cross-functional technology, lightweight construction covers entire value chain from production and use to recycling and reuse.

The aim of the state government is to establish Baden-Württemberg as a leading provider of innovative lightweight construction technologies in order to strengthen the local economy and secure high-quality jobs.

Among others, the "Lightweight Construction Alliance Baden-Württemberg" will continue the nationally renowned "Lightweight Construction Day", which acts as an important source of inspiration for a wide range of lightweight construction topics among business and scientific community.

Professor Milwich, an expert with many years of experience and an excellent network beyond the State's borders, has been recruited for this task. In his role, Milwich also represents the state of Baden-Württemberg on the Strategy Advisory Board of the Lightweight Construction Initiative of the Federal Ministry for Economic Affairs and Climate Action, which supports the cross functional-technology and efficient transfer of knowledge between the various nationwide players in lightweight construction and serves as a central point of contact for entrepreneurs nationwide for all relevant questions.

From 2005 to 2020, Professor Milwich headed the Composite Technology research at the DITF, which was integrated into the Competence Center Polymers and Fiber Composites in 2020. He is also an honorary professor at Reutlingen University, where he teaches hybrid materials and composites. "Lightweight design is an essential aspect for sustainability, environmental and resource conservation. I always showcase this in research and teaching and now also as a representative of the lightweight construction community in Baden-Württemberg," emphasizes Professor Milwich.

• Combination of financial and non-financial reporting as evidence of the central role of sustainability
• Measurable progress in achieving sustainability and climate targets
• Recognized for sustainability and prepares for the European Green Deal

The Lenzing Group has published a combined annual and sustainability report for the first time, reaffirming the strategic importance of social and environmental responsibility for the company. With the title “Ready to join?”, Lenzing would like to extend an invitation to all customers and partners to join forces to renew the textile and nonwovens industries and bring about positive change.

“This annual and sustainability report is also an invitation to find answers together. Lenzing is working tirelessly to make the industries in which it operates even more sustainable and to drive the transformation of the textile business model from linear to circular. For this transformation to be successful, further efforts by the entire industry and a policy designed to ensure a level playing field for sustainability pioneers are needed,” says Stephan Sielaff, CEO of the Lenzing Group.

The results for the 2023 financial year were already published. The report was once again prepared in digital form and is now available.

The announcement of a new effluent treatment plant (ETP) marks a milestone in Denim Expert's journey towards sustainability. This upcoming facility is a testament to the company's dedication to reducing its ecological footprint and safeguarding local ecosystems through advanced water management techniques.

The new Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP) being developed by Denim Expert strives for 100% wastewater recycling. As the ETP rises from concept to reality, Denim Expert embarks on a transition towards its next horizon: aligning with the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) Wastewater Guidelines Version 2.0.

Denim Expert's proactive approach to sustainability has been recognized on a global scale. The company has been named 'New Champion' by the World Economic Forum and has partnered with organizations such as the Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC), the United Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change (UNFCCC), and the Ellen MacArthur Foundation's Jeans Redesign program. As one of the first factories to join the Partnership for Cleaner Textile (PaCT) and in the process of implementing the 3E program, Denim Expert is dedicated to achieving 100% water reuse and full reliance on solar energy, further solidifying its commitment to driving positive environmental change.