From the Sector

CARBIOS published its second Sustainability Report with 2022 as the reference year. Like the first, this report is not subject to any publication obligation for the company, confirms CARBIOS' commitment and desire for transparency in terms of environmental, social and governance (ESG) initiatives.

In 2022, several objectives were achieved:

• Increase of the number of independent directors on the Board of Directors,
• Completion of the first carbon footprint report to sustainably reduce greenhouse gas emissions,
• Consolidation of the life cycle analysis (LCA) of the PET enzymatic depolymerization process,
• Continuation of employee training in safety and environmental issues.

In October 2023, CARBIOS appointed Bénédicte Garbil as Senior Vice President of Corporate Affairs and Sustainability: "In 2022, CARBIOS strengthened its governance, building a solid foundation for our continued growth and commitment to Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR). This strategic development demonstrates our commitment to operational excellence and transparency. We have integrated the principles of sustainability, ethics and environmental responsibility at the heart of our governance, putting CSR at the forefront of our actions."

2024 is a turning point for the European textiles and clothing industry: From 6 to 9 June 2024, European citizens will vote for a new European Parliament and, based on the results, a new European Commission will be formed. In view of this important election, EURATEX publishes a Manifesto, presenting 15 requests which will help to ensure a competitive European textiles and clothing industry.

The textile and apparel industry is making a substantial contribution to European wealth, jobs and growth. Europe counts 192,000 companies employing 1.3 million workers with a turnover of €167 billion and over €67 billion of exports. Entrepreneurship should be recognised as the foundation for a competitive textile industry, offering high quality and sustainable products, based on innovation, creativity and design. European policy makers should recognise such role to textiles and apparel companies and have an open dialogue to create better framework conditions to operate in the internal and global markets.

To realise that vision, the industry and policy makers need to work together on a mix of policy measures and initiatives, which are coherent and offer a transparent and predictable framework for our companies, and make them more resilient and competitive.

These policies should focus around four points:

Develop and implement a “smart” EU industrial policy
Europe should create policies which enhance competitiveness, instead of creating administrative burdens. To EURATEX, each new piece of legislation should undergo a “competitiveness test” to critically look at the impact of the new rules. Europe should also create a favourable environment to promote education and jobs in the industry. The EU textile industry currently employees 1,3 million people, 30% of which is above 50 years old. A critical bottleneck for the textile industry is to attract (young) people and make sure these people have the right set of skills, to operate in a changing textile ecosystem. EURATEX also asks the EU to invest in innovation and digitalisation as they are key to the European competitive advantage. Not only, as the last years have proved, Europe should provide companies with access to sustainable energy at lower prices.

No sustainability without competitiveness
The EU Strategy for Sustainable Textiles is pushing our sector towards new business models with a lower environmental footprint. To realise that ambition, no less than 16 regulatory proposals are on the table, each of them with a different timetable, managed by different departments of the European Commission. EURATEX is committed to sustainability, but asks for economic realism. This set of new regulations needs to be coherent, enforceable, feasible and applicable for SMEs, and not push textile companies out of the market. Moreover, some member states are moving forward faster and some legislations will be decided at national level, creating fragmentation of the market. Such scenarios will hamper Europe and its possibilities to grow.

Ensure free and fair trade
With $224 billion in sold merchandise, Europe is the second major world exporters of textiles and clothes after China ($321 billion). It is therefore important that the global market should be open, free and fair for our industry to continue to thrive. Besides the support to FTAs in general, EURATEX wants to emphasise that all trade agreements should offer effective market access for EU companies and a level playing field in these markets. A free and open market should go hand in hand also with protection against free riders. The EU must always consider enforcement and enforceability when making new laws; it should also take action together with the member states for a better coordination with harmonised criteria for action among Customs Authorities.

Incentivise the Demand for sustainable textiles
Sustainable textile products typically come at a premium price, making it difficult for many consumers and buyers to purchase such products. Many surveys across Europe confirm that around 50% of interviewees do not purchase sustainable fashion products and the main reason is price. EURATEX believes that, to create a demand and help consumers to buy a (genuine) sustainable textile product, there should be standard requirements and fiscal incentives. Public authorities should also implement green public procurements, by increasing the importance of sustainability criteria in their evaluation grids.

Vietnam is the subject of increasing investment across an array of industries, with its textile sector going from strength to strength in a short space of time. To give key players from across the textile spectrum an opportunity to make their presence felt in this market, the Vietnam International Trade Fair for Apparel, Textiles and Textile Technologies (VIATT) will make its debut from 28 February – 1 March 2024. Taking place at the Saigon Exhibition and Convention Center (SECC), the new fair will cover three main product sectors, namely apparel fabrics, yarns and fibres, and garments; home textiles; as well as technical textiles and nonwovens, textile processing, and printing technology.

In line with the industry’s anticipation, the country was identified as the ideal location for ASEAN’s new comprehensive textile platform for several key reasons. Vietnam’s pro-business policies, strategic geographical location, abundant labour force, and favourable trade agreements have contributed to its rise as a global textile manufacturing hub. Agreements such as the Regional Comprehensive Economic Partnership (RCEP); the Indo-Pacific Economic Framework for Prosperity (IPEF); and 15 free trade agreements (FTAs) covering over 60 countries and regions, will further enable participants from across the value chain to conduct cross-border business after connecting at next year’s show. In addition, several key travel initiatives that serve international players have been implemented, including the country’s APEC Business Travel Card programme^[1], availability of e-visas to all nationalities, and visa-free travel for select countries^[2].  

Exhibitors from multiple textile sub-sectors converge in February
In Vietnam’s home textile segment, rising urbanisation, emerging young consumers, and higher disposable incomes are interrelated factors driving growth^[3]. Globally, three of the top trends include recycling; utilising green fibres; and the increasing use of technical fabrics for enhanced comfort and health. At the fair, confirmed home textiles exhibitors include Hanyang Eco Tex, Hohmann GmbH, Phuong Nam Feather, and SIGMA, set to showcase their most up-to-date products, covering bedding, upholstery fabrics, curtain, and sun protection.
 
Utilised for automobiles, civil aviation, construction, health care, and more, Vietnam's exports of technical textiles reached USD 676.6 million for the first nine months of 2022, up 17.1% compared to the same period in 2021^[4]. This in turn bodes well for the country’s import prospects of quality machinery and equipment. Hoping to cater to domestic demand at VIATT 2024, international suppliers in this category include Julai, SIGMA, and Skwentex.

Meanwhile, apparel-related products make up the lion’s share of the country’s textile exports – according to Vietnam Textile & Apparel Association (VITAS), in 2022 these numbered USD 29.1 billion. From Ho Chi Minh to Hanoi, numerous international fashion brands have a manufacturing presence, including Adidas, H&M, Lacoste, Lululemon, Nike, The North Face, Uniqlo, and many more. At next year’s fair, exhibitors such as Avery Dennison, Lenzing, Stylem Takisada-Osaka, and Texwinca, will aim to draw the attention of apparel brands and a wide range of other domestic and international buyers.

The Vietnam International Trade Fair for Apparel, Textiles and Textile Technologies (VIATT) is organised by Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd and the Vietnam Trade Promotion Agency (VIETRADE), covering the entire textile industry value chain.

^[1] ‘Everything You Need to Know About Traveling to Vietnam with an APEC Business Travel Card’, April 2023, Vietnam Briefing, https://www.vietnam-briefing.com/news/apec-business-travel-card-vietnam.html/ (Retrieved: November 2023)
^[2] ‘Vietnam Introduces E-Visa for All Nationalities from August 15, 2023’, August 2023, Vietnam Briefing, https://www.vietnam-briefing.com/news/vietnam-introduces-e-visa-for-all-nationalities-from-august-15-2023.html/ (Retrieved: November 2023)
^[3] ‘Vietnam Home Textile Market Size & Share Analysis’, 2023, Mordor Intelligence, https://shorturl.at/wQVWZ (Retrieved: November 2023)
^[4] ‘Vietnam's technical fabric exports continue to be positive’, October 2022, Web Portal of Supporting Industry of Vietnam, https://shorturl.at/lmnvX (Retrieved: November 2023)

from both inside and outside of Asia. Looking ahead, the stage will be set once again at the National Exhibition and Convention Center (Shanghai) next year, allowing exhibitors and buyers from the industry to match their trading needs onsite. Thanks to the resumption of global travel and the ongoing industry recovery, the next Autumn edition is slated to attract even more multinational fairgoers and diverse home and contract textile collections. The fair will return in 14 – 16 August 2024.

A recent study showed a significant rise in corporate travel in 2023, driven largely by the resurgence of live business events and the easing of restrictions following several turbulent years. Adding to this, the Chinese government has announced several measures in a bid to attract more international visitors, including a simplified visa application process as the latest initiative.
 
As one of the largest economies in the world, China is renowned for producing high-value products across the home textile spectrum, making Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles an essential stop for global suppliers and buyers aiming to kick off the next business season.  
 
Emerging markets have become a significant focus for the industry in recent years. China's exports of home textiles to the ASEAN market amounted to around USD 2.09 billion in the first quarter of 2023, with an increase of 18% year-on-year; of which around USD 1.38 billion was exported in finished goods, seeing a rise of over 42% year-on-year[3]. With this growth in trade, buyers from fast growing emerging markets are expected to increasingly benefit from the Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles platform to fulfil their sourcing needs.
 
The upcoming Autumn edition will continue to comprise a wide range of home textile products, including bedding & towelling, rugs, table & kitchen linen, upholstery & curtain fabrics, editors, home textile technologies and textile design.
 
Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles – Autumn Edition is organised by Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd; the Sub-Council of Textile Industry, CCPIT; and the China Home Textile Association (CHTA).

To meet future demands on the amount of textile waste which needs to be collected and sorted, as well as the demand on recycling feedstock, it is necessary to match the demand and need for sorting of waste in Europe and create cost efficiency sorting capacities with larger scale and automation are necessary.

In an online session “Redefining Textile Waste Sorting: Impulses and findings for the future of next-gen sorting facilities” Texaid and partners talk about the current state of development and the challenges for the future.  Anna Pehrsson (Texaid), Gesine Köppe (ITA Augsburg GmbH) and partners present the results of a Technology Assessment conducted within The Transform Textile Waste into Feedstock Project (initiated by TEXAID within the ReHubs initiative) to assess the best available sorting techniques and process.

Details:  
December 4th 2023
12:30-13:30pm   
Online
For registration follow the link.

Autoneum Holding Ltd has been awarded the gold medal in the 2023 EcoVadis sustainability rating, ranking the automotive supplier in the top 5% of companies assessed. Following a silver medal the previous year, the Company was able to further improve the overall rating of its sustainability performance in the four categories Environment, Labor and Human Rights, Ethics and Sustainable Procurement and achieved the second-highest recognition level.

As part of its commitment to transparency towards its stakeholders and the public at large, Autoneum reports regularly on its key developments and achievements in the area of Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR). In addition to reporting in line with the Global Reporting Initiative (GRI) standards, Autoneum uses external platforms such as EcoVadis – a globally recognized sustainability rating agency – to assess the quality of its sustainability management system. EcoVadis uses 21 criteria based on international CSR standards to rate companies in four categories: Environment, Labor and Human Rights, Ethics and Sustainable Procurement. Since its foundation in 2007, EcoVadis has assessed the sustainability performance of more than 100 000 companies from 175 countries.

In the 2023 sustainability rating by EcoVadis, Autoneum achieved gold medal status for the first time, placing it in the top 5% of companies assessed. Having already been awarded the EcoVadis silver medal in 2022, Autoneum thus moved up to the second-highest recognition level in this year’s rating, thanks to significant progress in the Environment and Labor and Human Rights categories.

More information on Autoneum’s sustainable products and processes can be found in the current issue of the Corporate Responsibility Report.

The Lenzing Group has concluded a supply contract with the Austrian electricity producer WLK energy for the purchase of around 13 megawatts of wind power. Lenzing is thus not only underlining its commitment to climate protection and the energy transition, but is also making a long-term investment in a price-stable and diversified electricity supply. The contract has a term of 15 years and provides for supply from the new wind farm in Engelhartstetten from the first quarter of 2025.

The construction of the wind farm is a joint project involving several partners, including the operator and electricity supplier WLK energy, based in Untersiebenbrunn (Lower Austria). The total output of the wind farm with a total of eleven wind turbines will be around 45 megawatts. The share of around 13 megawatts, which will be produced exclusively for the needs of the Lenzing site (Upper Austria), corresponds to the average electricity requirements of around 10,000 households per year in Austria. The ground-breaking ceremony to mark the start of construction took place on November 09, 2023 with representatives from politics and business.

In 2019, Lenzing was the first fiber manufacturer to set itself the goal of reducing its CO2 emissions by 50 percent by 2030 and becoming carbon-neutral by 2050. This CO2 reduction target was recognized by the Science Based Targets Initiative. In 2022, Lenzing opened Upper Austria's largest open-space photovoltaic plant together with Verbund and also signed an electricity supply contract for photovoltaic energy with the green electricity producer Enery and Energie Steiermark.

Developments:

• Currency-neutral revenues up 1% driven by growth in all regions except North America
• Top-line development reflects focus on conservative sell-in and full-price business
• Gross margin up 0.2pp to 49.3% driven by reduced freight costs, a more favorable business mix, and lower inventory allowances; discounting levels continue to improve  
• Operating profit of € 409 million includes extraordinary expenses of around € 110 million
• Conservative sell-in strategy paying off as inventory position improves substantially versus Q2 level to € 4.8 billion; now down 23% year-over-year

Outlook
adidas expects revenues to decline at a low-single-digit rate
On October 17, adidas had adjusted its full year financial guidance to reflect both the positive impact of the second drop of some of its Yeezy inventory and the better-than-expected development of the underlying business. At the same time, macroeconomic challenges and geopolitical tensions persist. Elevated recession risks in North America and Europe as well as uncertainty around the recovery in Greater China continue to exist. In addition, the company’s revenue development will continue to be impacted by the initiatives to significantly reduce high inventory levels in North America and the company’s focus on full-price sales across its own channels. As a result, adidas now expects currency-neutral revenues to decline at a low-single-digit rate in 2023 (previously: decline at a mid-single-digit rate).

Underlying operating profit anticipated to reach a level of around € 100 million
The company’s underlying operating profit – excluding any one-offs related to Yeezy and the ongoing strategic review – is now anticipated to reach a level of around € 100 million in 2023 (previously: around break-even level). Including the positive impact from the two Yeezy drops in Q2 and Q3 of around € 300 million (previously: € 150 million), the potential write-off of the remaining Yeezy inventory of now around € 300 million (previously: € 400 million) and one-off costs related to the strategic review of up to € 200 million (unchanged), adidas now expects a reported operating loss of around € 100 million in 2023 (previously: loss of € 450 million).

Rieter’s cumulative sales in the first nine months of 2023 amounted to CHF 1 092.9 million (2022: CHF 987.4 million), an increase of 11% compared to the prior-year period. In particular, supply bottlenecks eased slightly, which allowed more machines to be delivered than in the same period last year. Sales in the third quarter of 2023
were CHF 334.7 million (Q3 2022: CHF 366.8 million).

The Business Group Machines & Systems generated total sales of CHF 749.6 million in the first nine months of 2023 (+18%). The Business Group Components posted sales of CHF 206.8 million, 11% lower than in the corresponding period of the previous year, while the Business Group After Sales recorded growth of 13% to CHF 136.5 million in the first nine months of 2023.

Order intake in the reporting period was characterized by restrained investment in new machinery in almost all regions except China. Demand for consumables, wear & tear and spare parts continued to weaken due to the slowdown in spinning mill capacity utilization. Rising interest rates and high energy and raw material prices also had a dampening effect.

In this market environment, the Rieter Group received orders totaling CHF 452.2 million in the first nine months of 2023 (2022: CHF 1 095.8 million). In the third quarter of 2023, orders decreased by 44% year-on-year to CHF 127.2 million (2022: CHF 226.4 million).

Rieter expects the market to have bottomed out in the year 2023 and anticipates a gradual market recovery in the course of the 2024 financial year.

As of September 30, 2023, Rieter has an order backlog of around CHF 900 million (September 30, 2022: CHF 2 000 million). The current order backlog will allow good capacity utilization at the production facilities into the coming year. The cancellation rate in the reporting period was within the usual range, averaging around 5% of the order backlog, with a slight downward trend.

In July 2023, the Group launched the “Next Level” performance program aimed at strengthening sales excellence, sharpening customer focus, improving cost efficiency in production and optimizing fixed cost structures. By taking these measures, Rieter intends to create the basis for providing an even more agile response to the cyclical nature of the machinery business. The objective of the planned initiatives is to ensure the profitable and sustainable development of the group.

The performance program includes provisions for the net reduction of approximately 300 positions in overhead functions across the group, primarily in Germany and Switzerland. The consultation processes initiated with the employee representatives in Ingolstadt (Germany) and Winterthur (Switzerland) were completed in the third quarter of 2023. The majority of these workforce reductions are expected to be implemented by the end of December 2023.

Due to the current market situation, further market- and volume-related adjustments in the range of 400 to 600 positions will be necessary, mainly in production. However, the actual number of positions to be reduced depends on the order intake in the coming months.

Rieter continues to expect that the strategic and operational measures initiated will result in one-off restructuring costs of around CHF 45 to 50 million, which will impact earnings in the 2023 financial year.

Outlook for the full year 2023 confirmed
As announced on July 20, 2023, in view of the economic situation and the ongoing cyclical market weakness, Rieter continues to expect below-average demand for new equipment in the coming months. A revival is not anticipated until the end of 2023 at the earliest. Likewise, Rieter believes that demand for consumables, wear & tear and spare parts will not recover until towards the end of 2023.

For the full year 2023, Rieter expects an EBIT margin of around 5 to 7% (including positive special effects of less than 2%) and sales at the previous year’s level of around CHF 1.5 billion.

Australia is one of the highest waste generators in the world, with over 7.6 million tonnes of food ending up in landfill each year, costing over $36.6 billion and producing 17.5 million tonnes of greenhouse gas.

Deakin’s partnership with Jet Technology through REACH will explore ways to transform industry-generated organic waste into new products like organic textiles and stock feed using a rapid composting system.

Jet Technology’s Environmental Recycling System (ERS) will build a circular economy by creating valuable products for a range of industry sectors.

Australia is continuing to generate more landfill each year. A new partnership between Deakin’s Recycling and Clean Energy Commercialisation Hub (REACH) and Japanese-based company Jet Technology aims to turn this around by repurposing organic waste and transforming it into new products.

Australia contributes more than 7.6 million tonnes of food to landfill annually, costing over $36.6 billion and producing 17.5 million tonnes of CO2.

Deakin University scientist Alfred Deakin Professor and Chair in Biotechnology Colin Barrow and his team from the Centre for Sustainable Bioproducts will work with Jet Technology to explore the possible reuses of organic waste using Jet Technology’s Environmental Recycling System (ERS). The project will focus on converting organic waste from the agriculture, dairy and fishery sectors by drastically shortening composting time so it can be used to make new products.

The four-year research project will be undertaken at the BioFactory at Deakin’s Waurn Ponds campus. It will initially focus on processing agricultural waste, converting apple pomace into a bioproduct for the textile industry. Apple pomace consists of the apple skin, pulp, seeds and stems left over from apple juice manufacturing. Its disposal in landfill can lead to greenhouse gas emissions and potential contamination of soil and groundwater.

If successful, it could lead to the establishment of a local multi-million-dollar bioeconomy where organisations such as councils, supermarkets and food and beverage businesses could cut costs while generating new revenue streams and job opportunities.

Deakin’s REACH initiative collaborates with progressive industry, government, and education partners to establish a multi-billion-dollar bioeconomy in Victoria and push the limits of technological innovation to deliver energy and recycling solutions that reduce landfill, fossil fuel emissions, and the devastating costs of global warming.