From the Sector

The Portuguese Textile and Apparel Association (ATP) is promoting the national textile industry at Expo 2025 Osaka with the installation TEXTILE LIVE – Draping with Sustainable Materials, made in Portugal, featured in the Portugal Pavilion under the theme Ocean, The Blue Dialogue.

This international initiative celebrates innovation, environmental responsibility, and the heritage of the Portuguese textile and clothing industry, highlighting materials and processes developed in Portugal that respect ecosystems and place sustainability at the heart of creative practice.

From 12 to 15 June, the thousands of visitors of the Portuguese Pavilion everyday, namely the Multiuse Room (with doors opening directly onto the Expo grounds), will be able to watch and witness an unprecedented live work action by 15 young Japanese designers and one Portuguese designer, on textile materials made in Portugal based on the pillars of sustainability and environmental responsibility.

In collaboration with three Japanese fashion schools - Osaka Institute of Fashion, Marronnier College of Fashion Design and Kobe Bunka Fashion College - art, tradition and innovation, in the form of draping work on busts also made from sustainable materials, will show the world the creative potential of our most eco-friendly materials.

This live draping performance will take place twice a day, one in the morning and another in the afternoon. In addition, visitors will also be able to see a photo exhibition in which Portuguese textiles materials are “interpreted” through the beauty and talent of top Portuguese models from past generations. The experience is further enriched by a miniature doll’s installation, the Marias Paperdolls by Cláudia Oliveira and an informative video that explains the sustainable processes behind the materials on display

Altogether, these elements offer more than enough reason for high anticipation around the event, which aims to reaffirm the active role that Portugal’s textile and clothing industry is playing in positioning itself at the forefront of the Circular Economy.

Curated by Paulo Gomes, the installation highlights textile solutions made in Portugal with:

• Natural wool and linen, responsibly sourced and rooted in traditional craftsmanship.
• Bio-based artificial fibers, derived from food industry by-products.
• Recycled synthetic fibers, including polyester from PET bottle waste.
• Seaweed-based finishes, which reduce water consumption and create unique effects.
• Natural and eco-friendly dyes, with environmentally conscious processes.

The result is a living dialogue between tradition and innovation, Portugal and Japan — where textiles become a medium of artistic expression and a symbol of an industry in transformation.

ATP extends its gratitude to all those who made this installation possible — especially the Portuguese companies Albano Morgado, Burel Factory, Lemar, Positive Materials e Trimalhas; the curator Paulo Gomes; the designer Renato Luiz; and the 15 Japanese fashion students from the Osaka Institute of Fashion, Marronnier College of Fashion Design, and Kobe Bunka Fashion College and AICEP.

ATP further acknowledges the valuable contributions of Cláudia Oliveira (Marias Paperdolls); the volunteer interpreters Kazuha Toriyama and Ayu Adachi; photographer Sorin Opait; models Elsa Correia, Isabel Sousa, Milene Veiga, and Telma Santos; Rui Guimarães (graphic materials); Liliana Alves (video production); and the team from Saiunion Co., Ltd (mannequins), as well as the support of our sponsors, Aquitex and Mind.pt. With this action, ATP reinforces the positioning of the Portuguese Textile and Apparel Industry as a global benchmark in sustainable innovation, presenting itself to the world through art, design, and the matter that defines them: textiles made in Portugal – FOR A BETTER WOLRD.

The 12th annual North American Nonwovens Supply Report, released today by INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, reveals continued growth and strategic transformation within the North American nonwovens industry.

For the second consecutive year, North American capacity continued to increase by over 100,000 tonnes, reaching 5.730 million tonnes in 2024, according to the report based on producer surveys and interviews.

Investments across all processing methods and diverse end-use sectors drove this expansion, according to the INDA findings. Production output continues to shift and slowed in 2024. The larger machine installations coming online promise future efficiency and capacity improvements.

The noteworthy trend is the installation of several new production lines, primarily in long-life sectors. This shift underscores the industry’s proactive efforts to achieve sustainability goals and reduce environmental impact.

Report Based on Producer Input
The annual INDA report delivers data to support industry growth and strategic planning, offering a detailed analysis of capacity, production, operating rates, and regional trade across North America, including Canada, Mexico, and the United States.

Driven by extensive research, including producer surveys and in-depth interviews with industry leaders, the report provides a comprehensive picture of the nonwoven materials landscape, covering composites, roll and finished goods.

“As part of INDA’s role to be the industry’s trusted data source, this report offers valuable insights for benchmarking, strategic planning, and decision-making,” said Tony Fragnito, INDA President and CEO. “This year’s findings highlight a resilient industry expanding capacity with ongoing investments across all regions and sectors, a strategic shift toward sustainable, long-life products, and a commitment to innovation and meeting rising demand across North America.”

The entire report is provided free of charge to producers who provided information. The Executive Summary from the annual Supply Reports, the quarterly INDA Market Pulse, and the monthly Price Trends Summary are provided to INDA members on a complimentary basis as part of their membership. The data gathered for this annual report is a springboard for the biennial Global Nonwoven Markets Report, published in November 2024.

An open and transparent process that goes beyond current EU and national legislation: EDANA announced the expansion of the Stewardship Programme CODEX™, a key part of their voluntary industry initiative to ensure product safety, transparency, and consumer confidence. This expansion increases the number of trace chemicals covered in the CODEX™, reinforcing the industry’s commitment to responsible stewardship and high safety standards.

The voluntary Stewardship Programme core is its CODEX™, which features:

• An evolving list of trace chemicals, purposefully chosen by EDANA (including, but not limited to, PAHs, PCBs, dioxins, furans, phthalates, formaldehyde, metals). These are not intentionally used to manufacture absorbent hygiene products (AHPs) but may be present in trace amounts.
• Guidance values for each substance, based on existing related regulations, regulatory guidance, related existing standards or industry experience.
• Standardized consumer relevant test methods to evaluate products for possible traces of substances.

A Voluntary Commitment to Safety and Transparency
The EDANA Stewardship Programme was created to provide science-based guidance on the safety of absorbent hygiene products, including baby diapers, menstrual products, and incontinence products. As a voluntary initiative, it reflects the industry’s proactive approach in going beyond regulatory requirements to enhance trust and transparency.

By broadening the CODEX™, EDANA and its members continue to support best practices in substance management and regulatory alignment.

Why This Expansion Matters

• More Chemicals Covered – The CODEX™ now includes a broader list of substances not to be present in AHP in a higher concentration than the respective guidance value. These are not intentionally used to manufacture AHPs but may be present in trace amounts.
• Enhanced Consumer Confidence – By voluntarily increasing substances, the industry demonstrates its commitment to ensuring safe and high-quality absorbent hygiene products. EDANA’s member companies keep safety at the very heart of what they do.
• Alignment with Best Practices – The expansion reflects the latest scientific knowledge and supports companies in staying ahead of regulatory developments. The voluntary CODEX™ represents a living programme; it is a proactive work to keep adding substances.

The expansion of the EDANA Stewardship Programme CODEX™ is the result of ongoing collaboration with industry experts, scientists, and regulators, ensuring it remains a trusted reference for product stewardship.

Swissmem textile machinery industry sector elects president and board: The Swiss Textile Machinery Association is the representative body for Switzerland’s providers of textile equipment, systems and services. Its general assembly on May 8 elected experienced industry leaders as president and board members.

The association’s new president is Davide Maccabruni, CEO of Uster Technologies AG. His role is to lead the board in defining strategies and key focus areas. Assessing the challenges facing the industry, Maccabruni states: “The Swiss textile machinery industry still holds unique strengths that can secure its success well into the future. To achieve this, however, we must focus on aligning our capabilities, working together, and supporting one another.”

A new member of the association board has also been elected. He is Martin Zürcher (Heberlein Technology AG), who joins Beat Meienberger (Benninger AG), André Imhof (Autefa Solutions Switzerland AG), Andreas Conzelmann (Jakob Müller AG) and Ralph von Arx (Retech AG), the latter taking on the role of vice-president.

Davide Maccabruni succeeds Ernesto Maurer, the association’s president for the past ten years. Maurer has been an active board member since 2011, becoming president in 2015. During his service, he has made a significant contribution to strengthening the innovative power and international visibility of the Swiss textile machinery industry.

The Swiss Textile Machinery sector was founded in 1940 and is the longest-established industry sector within Swissmem. It currently has 42 affiliated companies, including manufacturers of machines and components, and service providers, for the textile industry. The association supports its members in fostering innovation initiatives and education. A major focus is on joint market access campaigns, through a successful programme of international symposia. Recent events have been held in Mexico and the US, and another is planned for Morocco later this year.

The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO), representing the full spectrum of U.S. textiles from fiber, yarn and fabrics to finished sewn products, issued the following statements from NCTO President and CEO Kim Glas and several U.S. textile executives in support of President Trump’s order closing de minimis for China, effective May 2.

National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) President and CEO Kim Glas

“We are grateful to President Trump and his administration for closing the destructive de minimis loophole that has allowed unsafe and illegal Chinese goods—including goods made with forced labor—to flood the U.S. market duty-free and largely unchecked for years.

“This loophole, largely exploited by Chinese e-commerce giants and others to skirt U.S. tariffs, regulations and laws, has contributed to the closure of 28 textile mills in the past 22 months.

“The U.S. textile industry is a critical and strategic sector, supplying more than 8,000 products to the U.S. military, as well as industrial and commercial markets, while supporting local communities across country, and employing 471,000 workers nationwide.

“Today’s action by the administration is an important step forward to help rebalance the playing field for American manufacturers, preserve good-paying American manufacturing jobs, spur more investment and innovation in manufacturing facilities here at home, and close the backdoor to China once and for all.

“We urge the administration and Congress to move swiftly to end de minimis for commercial shipments from all countries to prevent circumvention and to make sure Made in China products cannot enter the United States through third countries. The U.S. textile industry stands ready to assist the administration as it continues its work to end the de minimis exemption and implement this critical provision.”

Anderson Warlick, Chairman and CEO of Parkdale Mills
“The de minimis loophole has impacted our businesses and our workforce significantly. Roughly half of de minimis shipments contain textile and apparel products which get an unfair competitive advantage at our expense. Illegal products like fentanyl and products made with Uyghur forced labor come into the United States under the de minimis exemption, causing economic damage and impacting the lives of many Americans.

“I am pleased to see President Trump take action to eliminate de minimis for products from China, and I encourage the administration to end de minimis for imports from all countries so we textile manufacturers can compete on a more level playing field.”

Amy Bircher Bruyn, CEO & Founder of MMI Textiles
“The de minimis loophole has wreaked havoc on the U.S. textile industry by enabling duty-free access for massive volumes of fast fashion imports, largely from China. This policy undermines American manufacturers who play a critical role in our national security and industrial resilience.

“At MMI Textiles, we employ 39 direct team members and support an additional 21 indirect workers — including a printer of camouflage patterns who operates exclusively within our NC facility, summer interns who represent the next generation of textile leaders, and specialized industry consultants. More broadly, through our robust contract manufacturing network, we directly support hundreds of jobs across the U.S. supply chain. Our company is a catalyst for employment and innovation in domestic textiles, producing essential components for U.S. military and law enforcement applications.

“The U.S. textile industry is vital to our nation’s industrial base. We supply the U.S. military, and during the COVID-19 pandemic, our industry pivoted rapidly to manufacture lifesaving PPE for frontline workers. Despite these contributions, the current de minimis threshold has created an unfair advantage for foreign competitors, particularly China, by allowing them to bypass duties and flood the market with underpriced goods — at the direct expense of American jobs.

“I am encouraged by President Trump’s commitment to ending de minimis eligibility for Chinese imports. I urge the administration to move swiftly to eliminate this loophole for all imports and restore a level playing field that protects U.S. manufacturing, jobs, and national security.”

Ron Sytz, CEO of Beverly Knits
“I am truly thankful to President Trump for closing the de minimis loophole for Chinese imports. This loophole has been devastating to my family’s 44-year-old textile manufacturing business in Gastonia, North Carolina, forcing us to lay off 175 workers and significantly reduce capacity in our plants. We can’t compete against subsidized imports from China that enter the U.S. duty free through the de minimis loophole. With the administration’s action, our company which provides hundreds of jobs and supports our community and the U.S. economy, will once again have a level playing field that will allow us to expand, invest and hire more associates here in the United States.”

The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) sent a letter to Treasury Secretary Scott Bessent, following remarks the Secretary made about the U.S. textile industry at this morning’s White House daily press briefing:

Dear Mr. Secretary:

On behalf of the U.S. textile industry and our 471,000 American workers, we appreciate the Trump administration’s efforts to advance an America First Trade Policy to reshore high-quality industrial jobs by addressing unfair trade practices that have harmed U.S. manufacturers and workers for decades. As you may know, our industry publicly endorsed President Trump’s America First Reciprocal Trade Plan and the White House included our endorsement in its April 3 press release highlighting statements of support for the president’s initiative.

We are writing to request a meeting at your convenience with our top industry leaders. We noted your comments today during the press conference that “President Trump is interested in the jobs of the future, not the jobs of the past. We don't need to necessarily have a booming textile industry where I grew up again, but we do want to have precision manufacturing and bring that back.” Our industry saw your remarks and were disheartened to hear this sentiment, especially since this industry has been noted by President Trump himself on a number of occasions as critical and strategic. The U.S. textile industry was proud to make lifesaving PPE during the first Trump Administration in response to COVID. The U.S. proudly makes over 8,000 different products to the U.S. military alone to ensure we do not have to rely on foreign adversaries to make essential products. This is a strategically important, relevant, and key industry – which is why we were pleased the White House amplified the industry again in its press release on reciprocal tariffs.´

Today we write to underscore the importance of our industry and the jobs it offers to thousands of workers, sustaining communities across the United States. The U.S. textile industry provides much-needed employment in rural areas and has functioned as a springboard for workers out of poverty into good-paying jobs for generations, including in your home state of South Carolina. Last year, the multifaceted U.S. textile supply chain directly employed 471,000 workers and produced shipments of man-made fiber, yarns, fabrics, apparel and non-apparel sewn products valued at $64 billion.

The United States exported $28 billion worth of textile-related goods to global markets in 2024, making it the second largest exporter of textile and apparel products in the world. Most U.S. textile exports go to Canada, Mexico, or other Western Hemisphere countries with which the United States has a free trade agreement for finishing and return to the U.S. as apparel. This vibrant production supply chain with our closest trading partners competes directly against imports from China and other countries in Asia that often deploy unfair, predatory trade practices, such as subsidized production, dumped exports, intellectual property theft, undervalued currency, abhorrent labor abuses, and unsustainable environmental practices.

Our industry proudly remains a world leader in textile innovation with unparalleled breadth and scope of manufacturing capabilities. Over the past 10 years, the U.S. textile industry made $22.3 billion in capital investments in pursuit of the latest innovations related to sustainability and production. This focus on innovation enables the industry to create tens of thousands of products including apparel, industrial textiles, and home furnishings.

With the right policies, the Trump administration can encourage the U.S. textile industry to reinvest in America, preserve and grow our existing workforce, and spur greater production and sales of American-made textiles now and in the future.

We would like to meet at your convenience to discuss the critical nature of the U.S. textile industry and how the Administration can help this key supply chain onshore jobs. Thank you for your consideration of this timely request.

Respectfully,
Kimberly Glas, President and CEO

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, announced the INDA International Trade Handbook, available in the INDA store and free to download for INDA members.

The handbook was written in partnership with the law firm Sandler, Travis & Rosenberg P.A. and represents several months of work compiling U.S. trade and customs policy and compliance information impacting the nonwovens sector. The handbook is a comprehensive, 240-page guide to help you and your business understand and comply with U.S. international trade law.  

Information included in the handbook features active tariffs on goods coming into the U.S. as of April 9, 2025, and tariff rates and classification codes for nonwoven roll goods and finished goods. You can preview the table of contents here.

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, proudly announces Carl Cucuzza and Lynda Kelly as the recipients of the 2025 INDA Lifetime Service Awards. Carl and Lynda are being recognized for their key contributions to the advancement of the nonwovens industry and INDA.

“I am thrilled to recognize Carl and Lynda for their exceptional dedication and impactful contributions,” said Matt O’Sickey, PhD, Director of Education & Technical Affairs at INDA. “Their unwavering commitment and tireless advocacy play vital roles in shaping the future of the nonwovens industry. I am looking forward to seeing and giving them their Awards at Hygienix and IDEA®25.”

• Carl Cucuzza will receive his award during the Hygienix™ Conference on November 18th at 4:30 pm.
• Lynda Kelly will receive her award during IDEA®25 on April 29th at 4:45 pm.

Here are the Award recipients:

Carl Cucuzza: INDA Lifetime Service Award
“I am deeply honored and thankful to receive this Lifetime Service Award from INDA. It has been a blessing to collaborate with a close-knit community of dedicated professionals who continually innovate in ways that improve lives while protecting the environment. I’m grateful for the recognition and continue to be excited to see steady growth through the entrepreneurial spirit that is a hallmark of this industry.”

Carl Cucuzza, prior to retirement, was President and Managing Partner of Teknoweb North America, a key supplier of converting equipment for wet and dry wipes, facemasks, and similar disposable products. He also partnered with his son in establishing the Hot Melt Supply Company, which provides service and support for adhesive applications in the disposables, product assembly, and packaging industries.

Prior to that, Carl was General Manager of Newco Enterprises, Inc. and Global Sales and Marketing Manager for the Nonwovens Systems Group of Nordson Corporation. In that role, Carl directly managed the North American and European sales efforts to disposables producers and personally coordinated hot melt systems sales and support activities for a major producer’s global baby diaper production expansion through the 1990s.

Carl is a past board member of INDA, Organizing Committee member, Moderator and Presenter for over 35 years at Vision, WOW, Hygienix, and various other domestic and international conferences. He has been recognized by the state of Georgia with the Award for Product Development and Management Excellence and has received seven patents for machinery and processes for the production of disposable products. He has also published numerous technical papers and articles, consulted on disposables projects, and acted as an expert witness.

Born and raised in Bradford, PA, and living in Monroe, GA, he and his wife Toni have been married for 47 years and have four children and four grandchildren,

Lynda Kelly: INDA Lifetime Service Award
“I am truly humbled and honored to receive the INDA Lifetime Service Award. Growing up in this amazing industry has been a remarkable journey, working alongside so many incredible colleagues across the globe to develop and sell unique nonwoven product solutions and technologies. As an industry, we have achieved so much over the decades, and I am proud to have been part of its evolution. It has truly been an incredible experience!

Lynda Kelly served as Senior Vice President, Americas & Business Development for Suominen Corporation until her retirement in 2023, due to health challenges. She dedicated nearly a decade to Suominen, where she led the Care team then transitioned to lead Americas sales team alongside global product and business development professionals. Under her leadership, the company successfully advanced its sales, market presence, and innovative products to achieve optimal profitability.

Lynda began her career at Kendall, which later merged into International Paper/Veratec and eventually became BBA Nonwovens. Throughout her tenure, she managed sales and marketing across various sectors, advancing into leadership roles. Early in her career, she embraced an expatriate assignment in Toronto, Canada, which provided her with early exposure to the rapidly growing spunmelt market.

In addition to her time at Suominen, Lynda brought deep expertise to the nonwovens industry through 11 years at First Quality Nonwovens, where she helped expand their spunmelt nonwovens offerings in the medical market. She also gained valuable insights into consulting during her two years with John Starr.

A devoted contributor to the nonwovens industry, Lynda remains a long-term supporter of INDA initiatives. She played a significant role as a key member of INDA’s AAMI medical disposable standards committee, helping to shape critical industry-wide guidelines. From 2019 to 2022, she served on the INDA Board of Directors, navigating the challenges and opportunities presented by the pandemic and advocating for collaboration across the sector. While at Suominen, she championed wellness-focused events like the “Run or Walk with Suominen,” blending industry engagement with health, fun, and community.

Lynda’s passion for the nonwovens industry extended beyond her professional contributions. Known for her enthusiasm, she often turned personal encounters into learning opportunities. For example, she would often examine new nonwoven products in a hospital or doctor’s office to spark inspiration. This curiosity drove her to learn more, initiate meaningful conversations, and implement innovative changes within her own teams.

Above all, Lynda cherishes the relationships she developed throughout her career. From colleagues to friends, she believes the most rewarding part of her journey was the people who enriched it. For Lynda, the true heart of the nonwovens industry has always been the connections and partnerships that make it thrive.

EDANA, the global association and voice representing the nonwovens and related industries, and INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, jointly express their concerns regarding escalating trade tensions.

Both associations recognize the potential for countermeasures and reciprocal tariffs to negatively impact the nonwovens industry globally. The nonwovens industry is a global sector, with many companies having significant operations worldwide, including in Europe and the United States. It is crucial to avoid a harmful cycle of retaliatory tariffs that could have a net negative effect on economies worldwide.

Both EDANA and INDA urge policymakers to prioritize negotiations and seek mutually beneficial resolutions. “While we understand the need to address unfair trade practices, we urge regions to prioritize negotiations and seek mutually beneficial resolutions,” stated Murat Dogru, General Manager at EDANA. “Escalating tariffs create uncertainty and can disrupt supply chains, ultimately harming industries and consumers.”  

Tony Fragnito, INDA’s President & CEO added, “The nonwovens industry supports fair trade and a level playing field. We encourage policymakers to consider the broader impact of trade measures and to pursue policies that foster collaboration and free trade.”  

EDANA and INDA highlight the significant role of the nonwovens industry in providing essential materials for various sectors, including hygiene, healthcare, and manufacturing in many regions, including Europe and the United States. The associations urge the US and EU to recognize the interconnectedness of the industry and the importance of maintaining open trade between the regions. At a time when manufacturers are facing cost pressures from many angles, it is imperative that American and European manufacturers remain competitive globally and have long-term clarity on import costs.  

EDANA and INDA remain dedicated to promoting trade policies that support a strong and adaptable nonwovens industry worldwide. Choosing collaboration over conflict, and commitment to open markets and productive engagement, will pave the way for a future where trade acts as a catalyst for shared prosperity and innovation, to the advantage of industries and consumers alike.

The US is EU 5th most important trading partner, with total trade exceeding €9 billion.
American customers enjoy high end fashion items, but also technical textiles coming from Europe. Adding a 20% duty will hamper that relationship.
 
EURATEX Director General Dirk Vantyghem warned against this tariff escalation: "This decision is like going back in time; it will lead to a loose-loose relationship within the global textile industry. EURATEX stands for free but fair trade, based on common rules which are respected by all; the EU and the US should lead by example, and promote high quality and sustainable textile products.”