From the Sector

Monforts recently celebrated its 140th anniversary at a special event for staff and their families at its headquarters in Mönchengladbach, Germany. Building on a rich history since its foundation by August Monforts in 1884, the company remains 100% dedicated to the development of technologies that will ensure the future success of its textile industry customers.

Under the motto, ‘140 Years of Performance, Innovation and Partners’, Monforts is looking forward to further celebrating this milestone with its representatives and customers at the forthcoming ITMA Asia + CITME exhibition in Shanghai from October 14-18, in Hall 5 at stand C09.

The first Monforts machines were mechanical napping units for raising the surfaces of cotton fabrics, providing softness and warmth and adding value. By 1893, Monforts 24-roller napping machines were drawing appreciative crowds at the World Fair in Chicago – establishing international trade networks was paramount to the company from the outset.

In 1897, August Monforts established an iron foundry equipped with hydraulic casting machines, by which time the company employed 1,200 people. This was followed by the introduction of semi-automatic manufacturing tools – an area in which Monforts achieved a number of firsts, such as the single-spindle lathe which became a big export hit in the late 1930s due to its unique and unmatched precision.

Overseen by successive four generations of the Monforts family, the company’s range of textile machines has been significantly expanded based on decades of accumulated know-how and a dominant position in fabric finishing technologies has been established.

Since 2013, Monforts has been a member of the CHTC Fong’s Group, today one of the world’s largest textile machinery manufacturers.

Since its opening in 2013, the Monforts Advanced Technology Centre (ATC) in Mönchengladbach has proved a valuable resource to customers for achieving new standards in fabric finishing.

Over an area of 1,200 square metres, it houses two full finishing lines, engineered to accommodate an extremely diverse range of processes, in addition to a Thermex range for the continuous dyeing of denim and other woven fabrics, a full colour kitchen and a number of lab-scale systems for smaller batch trials.

“The ATC allows our customers to test their own textiles and technical fabrics on Monforts dyeing and finishing machines under fully confidential, real production conditions,” says Monforts Technologist Saskia Kuhlen. “Using the results from these trials, we are also able to make recommendations for improving many fabric finishes.”

A collaboration that unites Monforts’ dyeing and finishing equipment, BW Converting’s Baldwin TexCoat G4™ digital spray technology and Archroma’s chemistries towards sustainable solutions is charting the course for the future of sustainable textile finishing.

Together, the three companies will support dyeing and finishing manufacturers, a critical part of the textile supply chain, in their development projects, boosting the quality and performance of their finished products, while at the same time maximizing the productivity and resource utilization of the finishing application process.  

Kicking off the partnership in the second half of this year, Monforts will install BW Converting’s full-width Baldwin TexCoat digital spray unit on a stenter frame at its Advanced Technology Center (ATC) at its headquarters in Mönchengladbach, Germany.

“Our ATC already houses two full Montex stenter finishing lines engineered to accommodate an extremely diverse range of processes, in addition to a Thermex range for the continuous dyeing of denim and other woven fabrics, a full color kitchen and a number of lab-scale systems for smaller batch trials,” explained Monforts Junior Technologist Saskia Kuhlen. “It enables our customers to test their own textiles and technical fabrics under fully confidential, real production conditions and using the results from these trials we are also able to make recommendations for improving many fabric finishes. The new TexCoat installation will make an important contribution to what we can achieve.”
 
TexCoat G4 revolutionizes the traditional water- and energy-intensive pad-dry-cure finishing process by precisely applying chemistry including softeners, antimicrobials, durable water repellents, flame retardants, resins and most other water-based chemicals across the textile surface only where it is required, on one or both sides of the fabric. The system can therefore reduce water, chemistry and energy consumption by up to 50% compared to traditional pad application processes.

The TexCoat G4 installation brings together the surface functions, fabric transport and thermal processing technology of Monforts stenter frames with Archroma’s specialty chemicals, applied with TexCoat’s contactless precision, to achieve optimum absorption and maximum efficacy, exceeding the performance of traditional pad applications.

“Archroma’s commitment to advancing sustainability solutions for technical textiles has led to a pivotal partnership with Baldwin, where the benefits of contactless precision spray combined with our innovative solutions have helped textile manufacturers achieve greater energy and water savings,” said Michael Schuhmann, Global Marketing Segment Manager for Technical Textiles, Archroma Textile Effects. “We are thrilled to take the partnership to the next level with the integration of a renowned equipment expert. Together, we will bring the best of our expertise in sustainable technologies to our customers around the world.”

“Baldwin has enjoyed a great relationship with Monforts and Archroma over the last few years,” added Rick Stanford, Baldwin’s Vice-President of Business Development for Textiles “Individually, we are working hard to assist our customers to achieve their sustainability and environmental targets but this is the first time the three companies have committed to working together with a focus on bringing transformative change to the dyeing and finishing space. It will result in significantly lower energy, chemical and water consumption with increased productivity and higher quality.  We strongly believe that this partnership will be greater than the sum of its parts.”

Beyond textile finishing, Monforts, Baldwin and Archroma will work together to develop a versatile offering that will include coloration concepts and in the not-too-distant future the partners additionally plan to expand their collaboration to continuous spray dye applications developed by Baldwin.

International technology group ANDRITZ supplied and recently commissioned a tearing line at Sealy Australia’s mattress manufacturing plant in Brisbane. Versatile technology enables Sealy to recycle post-consumer and post-industrial textile waste in one line.

Sealy is a leading Australian manufacturer of high-quality mattresses, producing 1,000 mattresses per day at its Brisbane plant. To replace some of the virgin fiber feedstock with more sustainable recycled fibers, the company installed an ANDRITZ tearing line at the plant.

The ANDRITZ reXline tearing can process up to 1,200 kg/h of cotton denim waste and up to 800 kg/h of quilt waste. The 6-cylinder Exel module allows flexible switching between the two types of material. The combination of the reXline and the ANDRITZ airfelt line, which has been in operation at the Brisbane plant since 2008, enables Sealy to process large amounts of waste into new mattresses ready for sale around the world.

“With our new line, we are taking a significant step towards circularity by making new mattresses from textile waste that would otherwise be burnt or landfilled,” says Shaun Guest, Fiber Plant Factory Manager of Sealy Australia.”

Under the motto "Master the Change", the KARL MAYER GROUP presents innovations from its brands KARL MAYER, STOLL and KM.ON at to ITMA ASIA + CITME, from October 14 to 18, 2024. Visitors can expect an exhibition of solutions from the fields of mechanical engineering, digitalization, textile products, applications and customer support.

A range of warp knitting and flat knitting machines from the Group's product portfolio and textile trends will also be on display at an accompanying in-house show at KARL MAYER (CHINA). The event in Changzhou starts the day before the trade fair opens. One highlight will be the opening of the new showroom of the KARL MAYER subsidiary in China with solutions from all areas of technology.

Fibre Extrusion Technology Ltd (FET) of Leeds, UK will be exhibiting for the first time at COMPAMED 2024 in Düsseldorf, taking place between between 11 – 14 November 2024, to reflect the company’s increasing profile in the medical sector. COMPAMED is a international trade fair for the medical technology supplier sector, showcasing a range of high-quality medical technology components, services and production equipment for the medical industry.

FET are experts in medical fibre technology and innovations, designing and delivering high performance equipment for a range of precursor medical products. This includes turnkey solutions for nonwoven medical devices, wound care and dressings and synthetic absorbable sutures.

FET’s expertise lies in laboratory and pilot melt spinning equipment for a vast range of applications, especially precursor materials used in high value medical devices and specialised novel fibres from exotic and difficult to process polymers. FET has processed over 100 different polymer types and its systems can melt spin resorbable polymers in multifilament, monofilament and nonwoven formats, collaborating with specialist companies worldwide to promote greater sustainability through innovative manufacturing processes. Where melt spinning solutions are not suitable, FET provides an alternative with pilot and small scale production wet and gel spinning systems.

Trützschler and the Indian company Gimatex have a long relationship that began in 2006. Gimatex has used Trützschler’s IDF in direct spinning and are now using it to turn textile waste into ring yarn.

Gimatex Industries Pvt. Ltd. operates fully integrated facilities with ginning, spinning, recycling, weaving and processing units in Hinganghat, within India’s cotton-growing region of Vidarbha. It also runs a fabric processing unit in Dholka, near Ahmedabad. Together, Trützschler and Gimatex are working in close collaboration with the shared aim of extending that long history far into the future.

Trützschler’s Integrated Draw Frame (IDF) technology is at the heart of this collaboration. Gimatex is using these solutions to produce high-quality yarn. In particular, IDF enables Gimatex to produce yarns from a wide variety of raw materials – from 100 percent cotton through to polyester, recycled fibers and blends of various different inputs.

Gimatex mainly uses Trützschler IDF to manufacture rotor yarns in a direct spinning process. Direct spinning means shortening the spinning process by eliminating draw frame passages. Fiber slivers are fed directly from the card into the integrated drafting passage. This direct spinning concept uses less electricity and less space than conventional draw frame passages, which helps Gimatex to cut costs while increasing output volumes – with no compromise in quality. Most often, IDF technology is used for rotor and vortex spinning. However, the team at Gimatex is now also one of the first spinning mills in India to develop a special IDF process for producing traditional and recycled ring yarn. This allows the company to leverage the same setup it uses for open-end yarn. The ring yarn produced in this unusual way is mostly coarser varieties and recycling blends for cotton / spandex (lycra) products, with Ne 10s and Ne 16s. The yarn goes through a blow room into a TC 15 card with IDF, before entering a Trützschler TD 10 draw frame, a speed frame and a ring frame.

Computerized textile solutions provider SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD. of Wakayama, Japan, together with its Hong Kong and Chinese market subsidiary SHIMA SEIKI (HONG KONG) LTD., will exhibit at the 30th edition of the Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics show in Shanghai, China this month. It will exhibit as part of the newly established Digital Solutions Zone which allows visitors to capture various opportunities available as part of the digital revolution that is currently making waves in the apparel industry.

SHIMA SEIKI will be showing its APEXFiz® subscription-based design software which supports the creative side of fashion from planning and design to colorway evaluation, realistic fabric simulation and 3D virtual sampling. Virtual samples are a digitized version of sample making that are accurate enough to be used effectively as prototypes, replacing physical sampling and consequently reducing time, cost and material that eventually go to waste. The remarkable realism of textile simulation is achieved by using scanned data of actual yarn to virtually weave or knit, creating an image that resembles real fabric. These fabrics can be utilized in various 3D simulation software including APEXFiz® to create realistic product images. Should the design be approved for production, machine data can be generated to allow smooth communication for digitally bridging the gap between the studio and factory. APEXFiz® thereby helps to realize sustainability and digitally transform the fashion supply chain.

The product planning capability of APEXFiz® is enhanced by several web services featured as part of the SHIMA SEIKI Online Services (SHIMA online) web platform. These include SHIMA Datamall™ digital content web service that allows users to search, browse and purchase a variety of useful data for streamlining the planning and production of fashion items, as well as the yarnbank® digital yarn sourcing web service that offers digitized yarn data by yarn companies from around the world for download and use in virtual sampling.

Knitwear samples produced on the latest lineup of computerized flatbed knitting machines and exclusive to SHIMA SEIKI computerized knitting technology will also be on display, including WHOLEGARMENT® knitwear that can be produced in their entirety without linking or sewing, as well as hybrid knit-weave samples proposed as an alternative to wovens.

Terrot Textilmaschinen GmbH announces its participation in Febratex 2024, the premier event for the textile industry in Brazil and across Latin America.

At this year’s event, Terrot will exhibit the Pilotelli JVCE-4 machine, demonstrating their commitment to advancing textile technology and supporting the industry’s growth. The machine model is known for its high production capabilities in outerwear textiles and shows great results in knitting single-jersey fabrics, including plain single (up to E44), piqué or two-thread fleece.

Flat knitting solutions provider SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD. of Wakayama, Japan will exhibit at the Brazilian Textile Industry Fair (FEBRATEX 2024) between 20th - 23rd August 2024. On display will be a roundup of SHIMA SEIKI computerized flat knitting technology, represented by the latest WHOLEGARMENT® knitting machines, conventional shaped knitting machines, glove knitting machine and design software.

The SWG-XR® WHOLEGARMENT® knitting machine features the company's original SlideNeedle™ on four needle beds supporting a wide range of high-quality WHOLEGARMENT® knitting in all needles. MACH2®VS and N.SVR®183 are conventional V-bed machines capable of WHOLEGARMENT® knitting in every other needle. N.SIR®123SP features a special loop presser bed and is capable of producing woven-like hybrid fabrics as well as technical textiles. The SVR® and N.SSR® workhorse machines set the industry benchmark for shaping machines, with SVR®202 featuring tandem knitting capability for flexible operation. N.SSR®072 is a new machine that specializes in knitting of collars, shown for the first time in Brazil. The SFG® fully automatic glove knitting machine rounds out the comprehensive lineup.

APEXFiz® subscription-based design software supports the creative side of fashion from planning and design to colorway evaluation, realistic fabric simulation and 3D virtual sampling. Virtual sampling is a digitized version of sample making, accurate enough to be used effectively as prototypes. By replacing physical samples, virtual samples reduce time, cost and material that otherwise go to waste. APEXFiz® thereby helps to realize sustainability and digitally transform the fashion supply chain.

Flat knitting solutions provider SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD. of Wakayama, Japan, together with its Korean subsidiary SHIMA SEIKI KOREA INC., will participate in the 25th edition of Preview in Seoul exhibition with a lineup of knitting machines and design systems.

SHIMA SEIKI will be exhibiting its SWG®061N2 compact WHOLEGARMENT® knitting machine which can produce a wide range of WHOLEGARMENT® items in their entirety without the need for linking or sewing. The SWG®-N2 series “Mini” range is suited to the production of small knit items and accessories such as gloves, socks, hats and scarves as well as dogwear, cozies, shoe uppers, bags, card cases, glasses cases, smartphone covers and other personal items. The N.SVR®093SP is a conventional shaped knitting machine featuring a loop presser bed that yields novel fabrics with special inlay patterns that are produced by inserting yarn into knit fabric in a weave fashion, offering new and exciting possibilities in hybrid knitweave textiles. Both machines will be shown knitting such items as a knit bag and stationery case to demonstrate the capability of current knitting technology for producing non-apparel items. Other knit samples on display include the latest items produced on SHIMA SEIKI's newest flagship SWG-R® WHOLEGARMENT® knitting machine.

On the design side, the SDS®-ONE APEX4 design system and APEXFiz® subscription-based design software will be on display. Both support the creative side of fashion from planning and design to colorway evaluation, realistic fabric simulation and 3D virtual sampling. Virtual samples are a digitized version of sample making that are accurate enough to be used effectively as prototypes, replacing physical sampling and consequently reducing time, cost and material that otherwise go to waste. Virtual samples can furthermore be used in e-commerce to gauge consumer demand before production begins. Feeding that information back to production and combined with on-demand WHOLEGARMENT® knitting technology, production can be adjusted to optimize inventory and minimize leftover waste. Virtual sampling on SDS®-ONE APEX series thereby helps to realize sustainability and digitally transform the fashion supply chain.