From the Sector

Uster FiberQ automated raw material management generated more than 2,000 laydowns in a year for Sagar, one of India’s leading spinners. The results delivered consistent yarn quality and optimized process efficiency – giving a payback period of three months.

Sagar is taking advantage of the new annual subscription format, which includes the software solution plus valuable advisory services from Uster expert technologists.

After one year using FiberQ, A.K. Saini, Chief General Manager Operations at Sagar Manufacturers Pvt. Ltd., reported: “We have seen better fiber utilization, significantly improved yarn quality consistency and elimination of seldom-occurring faults such as white specks and barré. The overall outstanding results convinced our management about the value of FiberQ and we confirmed the renewal of the subscription services of FiberQ and the 360Q platform.”

Sagar insists on consistently high standards in yarn quality and performance. The company wanted to go even further, by optimizing its manufacturing operations and achieving maximum fiber yield.

Sagar Manufacturers Pvt. is renowned for excellence, in both its home country of India and the global textile marketplace, as a producer and supplier of top-class cotton yarns and knitted greige fabric. Saini says: “Our strategic focus is on integrating advanced technology and eco-friendly practices, for creative solutions which drive excellence in manufacturing performance and ensure customer satisfaction.”

Before FiberQ, the company was already proud of the excellent raw material management processes in its spinning operation. It was a determination to improve still further in both production efficiency and consistent quality which led to the decision to implement the Uster FiberQ raw material management solution.

Sagar has always embraced new technologies – especially those focused on innovation and automation – and it was naturally one of the first adopters of the FiberQ raw material management solution. FiberQ combines advanced technology and textile expertise to automate many tasks previously done manually. So it became a very interesting value proposition for progressive spinners like Sagar. The automated, intelligent, reliable and easy-to-use system minimized manual efforts but also provided consistent results. Uster’s end-to-end solution also offers access to continuous improvements such as supplier statistics and fiber-to-yarn correlation, which will add even more value in future.

Impact on production
Sagar figures show that yarn realization has increased by 0.3% to 0.5% on average and it has eliminated the need for ‘cut and creel’ – a big advantage in terms of efficiency and fewer changes in production. During the year, FiberQ generated more than 2,000 laydowns for all production units in a very efficient, fast and easy way. Another plus was the easily accessible laydown history and the visibility of the impact of different cotton lots in use.

Customer feedback has also been strong. Sagar’s improved quality consistency was said to have resulted in better fabric appearance. And since Sagar can now provide customers with bigger yarn lot sizes with the same quality and color properties, they can produce larger, uniform batches of knitted and dyed fabrics and save manufacturing costs.

Advisory service benefits
FiberQ is not only a software solution. It comes with advisory services from expert Uster textile technologists. The FiberQ advisory services ensure there is always a textile engineer with mill experience and deep knowledge available to support the spinners. As well as taking care of all aspects of installation, there are periodic assessments to track quality status from fiber to yarn, which is a unique competence of Uster and a highly appreciated element of the service.

FiberQ is offered as a yearly subscription service. For the industry, the idea of subscribing to a software service for raw material management is quite new, although it has been established for many years in other fields.

The International Textile Manufacturer Federation has published its International Textile Industry Statistics (ITIS) on productive capacity and raw materials consumption in the short-staple organized (spinning mill-) sector in virtually all textile-producing countries in the world. ITMF has used a new calculation method and reviewed past time series.

The estimated global number of installed short-staple spindles reached 232 Mio units in 2023 and the number of installed open-end rotors grew to 9.7 Mio (see Fig. 1 and 2). Capacity building is still disproportionally targeting Asia. The number of installed air-jet spindles soared to 637 thousand. Outside Asia, the main capacity increase was registered in Türkiye.

Global Installed Capacities and Raw Material Consumption in the Short-Staple Organized (Spinning Mill-) Sector of the Textile Industries (1993-2023) The number of installed shuttle-less looms increased to 1.7 Mio in 2023 (see Fig. 3). Total raw material consumption in the short-staple organized sector slightly decreased to 43 Mio tons (see Fig. 4). Global consumption of raw cotton and cellulosic short-staple fibers decreased by -4.4% and -2.9%, respectively. Consumption of synthetic short-staple fibers increased by 0.5%.

SAATI Germany, a leading manufacturer of highly developed technical fabrics, has further optimised its production processes by using innovative measurement and control technology from Mahlo.

The globally active SAATI Group produces filter fabric for blood transfusion devices, aramid fabric for bulletproof vests and functional fabric for mobile phones and tablets, among other things. SAATI is known for its high precision and quality, which is maintained at all stages of production.

The installation of a Mahlo distortion control system Orthopac FMC-15 and a Famacont PMC-15 yarn density meter in the outfeed of a stenter frame was a further step in this optimisation process.

As Saati produces highly technical fabrics, the exact thread count (up to over 300 F/cm) is an essential quality feature. The PMC-15, a camera-based measuring system, can continuously record and log this parameter. At the same time, the FMC-15 records residual distortion and contributes to the elimination of so-called back sheet distortion in the fabric by automatically controlling the take-off roller of the stenter frame. This ensures the consistently high quality of the end products and reduces potential sources of error.

The investment in these systems proved so successful that SAATI initiated the next stage of process optimisation in 2024. „With the installation of an Orthopac GRVMC-15 straightening machine before the infeed of the stenter frame, we have further perfected the control of fabric
quality,“ says Operations Manager Thomas Brockmeier. The heavyweight among the Mahlo straightening systems with a working width of 2,800 mm enables SAATI to correct skew and bow distortions in the raw fabric even before the stenter frame. This is because a weft yarn that is only slightly skewed or curved can render the fabric unusable or visually unfit for use.

By combining the GRVMC-15 with the FMC-15 already installed in the outfeed, SAATI now has a fully automatic system that offers maximum monitoring and control options. The co-operation of these two technologies enables the company to deliver precisely shot-straight items. „I am delighted that we were able to complete the project so successfully,“ says Brockmeier.

International technology group ANDRITZ has inaugurated a new technical center in Montbonnot, France, dedicated to advancing solutions for dry molded fiber production.

Dry molded fiber (DMF) production uses a nearly waterless process to convert cellulose fibers into three-dimensional products for sustainable packaging. Based on its strategic partnership with the Swedish DMF pioneer PulPac, ANDRITZ is now able to offer complete dry molded fiber lines.

The new technical center with its pilot line will support ANDRITZ’s development of industrial-scale solutions for high-speed, turnkey dry molded fiber production plants for the packaging industry. It will also enable customers to conduct trials, receive support on R&D projects, and create new products with customized shapes and barrier properties.

Andreas Lukas, Senior Vice President of ANDRITZ Nonwoven & Textile, states: “Wood pulp processing has been a core competence of ANDRITZ for a long time. Our new pilot line is an important step in advancing our solutions for responsible convenience packaging from wood pulp. By combining ANDRITZ Dan-Web’s airlaid forming capabilities with PulPac’s molding technology, we are striving for the highest capacity, product quality and flexibility in this field.”

UMAC, a member of the EREMA Group, is expanding its ReadyMac product line with a new 60 hertz version. This means that the immediately available plastics recycling solution can now be deployed worldwide. The standardised machine with its particularly attractive price-performance ratio will be presented in its new look for the first time at Plast Eurasia from 4-7 December 2024 in Istanbul.
    
The ReadyMac celebrated its market launch at K 2022. The recycling system, which is produced in stock and therefore available at short notice, has since established itself successfully in the 50 hertz version, particularly on the European market. Based on this success, UMAC is now also offering the ReadyMac 500 in a 60 hertz version. "The ReadyMac is suitable for a wide range of materials and degrees of contamination, processing film, flakes and regrind into high-quality recycled pellets. The fixed price of just EUR 375,000 makes it an attractive proposition," says Michael Köhnhofer, Site Manager at UMAC. The machine is produced in small series at the St. Marien site.

The ReadyMac is based on EREMA's proven TVE technology, in which degassing occurs after filtration. Equipped with a robust SW RTF® screen changer filtration system, the recycling machine processes both printed and contaminated waste. The multipurpose screw handles a wide range of materials efficiently and reliably. With a throughput of up to 500 kg/h for LDPE, LLDPE, MDPE, PP, PS, PC, ABS and up to 450 kg/h for HDPE, the ReadyMac 500 is a true all-rounder. In addition, the two frequency converters on the main drives (preconditioning unit and extruder screw) ensure consistently high throughputs and quality for a wide variety of material types, such as regrind, film or nonwoven, even without changing the screw. This enhances both flexibility and productivity. The frequency converters are now included as standard with the ReadyMac.

October, 30 Rieter has placed a bond of CHF 65 million with a term of five years and a coupon of 3.5%. The net proceeds of the issue will be used for general corporate purposes. “The bond also extends the maturity profile of our debt financing and increases the diversification of the investor base as well as our strategic flexibility,” said Oliver Streuli, Rieter Group CFO.

The bond was issued by UBS, Zürcher Kantonalbank, Commerzbank and Basler Kantonalbank. The bond will be listed on the SIX Swiss Exchange.

ARISE IIP, the pan-African developer and operator of world-class industrial parks, has partnered with African Export-Import Bank (Afreximbank) and Rieter, the supplier of systems for manufacturing yarn from staple fibers in spinning mills. The unprecedented partnership will spearhead the “Africa Textile Renaissance Plan” – a transformative initiative aimed at revitalizing the continent’s textile sector. This ambitious project will leverage ARISE’s extensive network of industrial parks to support a new era of textile manufacturing in Africa.

In order to facilitate the implementation of the Africa Textile Renaissance Plan, Afreximbank, Arise IIP and Rieter AG signed a framework agreement on October 14, 2024. The framework agreement outlines the collaboration to establish 500 000 metric tons of African cotton transformation capacity over the next three to five years, supported by USD 5 billion in financing.

The Africa Textile Renaissance Plan aims to achieve the following key objectives:

• establish 500 000 metric tons of African cotton transformation capacity over the next three to five years, with potential expansion of an additional 500 000 metric tons,
• localize machine repair expertise in Africa,
• create up to 500 000 jobs,
• reduce Africa’s annual textile imports,
• boost exports to the US under the African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA), focusing on full value addition within the continent and to export to the rest of the world and
• develop a strong financing structure to support capacity building.

Countries benefiting from the program will be selected based on criteria such as power and gas availability, and textile parks with standard infrastructure or equity contribution. Training centers will be established in selected countries to develop and improve skill levels.

The partnership aims to secure financing of textile projects, streamlining the process through:

• standardized loan documentation and security packages,
• expedited two-month application process and
• standardized business plan templates.

To foster long-term growth, Rieter has committed to gradually establishing a manufacturing presence in Africa subject to commercial viability, including the:

• setup of a repair and maintenance facility in ARISE’s industrial park in Benin,
• establishment of spare parts warehousing and
• phased introduction of machine assembly operations.

Gagan Gupta, CEO and Founder of ARISE IIP expressed his enthusiasm for the project: “The Africa Textile Renaissance Plan represents a significant milestone in the continent’s industrial development. I’m convinced that this initiative will not only boost local manufacturing and create thousands of jobs but also position Africa as a global leader in sustainable textile production.”

Prof. Benedict Oramah, President and Chairman of the Board of Directors of Afreximbank, stated that the Africa Textile Renaissance Plan is a “game-changer” for African trade. He remarked: “By transforming Africa’s cotton into high-value textile products, we are not only driving industrialization but also reducing dependence on imports while building a competitive export base. This partnership complements our ongoing efforts, such as the transformative change we are spearheading in Africa’s Cotton-4 plus (C4+) countries, alongside other partners. It underscores Afreximbank’s unwavering commitment to industrialization and export development.”

Thomas Oetterli, CEO Rieter Group, said: “We are thrilled to support this important initiative with our commitment, expertise and consulting knowledge. We are convinced that the Africa Textile Renaissance Plan marks an important starting point for the future development of the textile industry in Africa.”

In the third quarter of 2024, the order index for Italian textile machinery, as reported by the Economics Department of ACIMIT, the Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers, showed a decline compared to the period July – September 2023 (-19%). In value terms, the index stood at 50.6 points (base 2021=100).

This drop is due to the decrease in foreign markets (-23%), which account for 86% of total orders. Instead, a 15% increase was observed in Italy compared to the third quarter of 2023. The absolute index value for foreign markets was 49.1 points, while in Italy it reached 61 points. In the third quarter, the order backlog amounted to 3.8 months of guaranteed production.

Marco Salvadè, President of ACIMIT, stated: “The order index remains at low levels. The foreign demand is of greatest concern. Investments in machinery remain stalled in some of the major markets for Italian textile machinery, such as India, Turkey, and Bangladesh.”

The growth in order collection in the domestic market is not sufficient to bridge the gap recorded abroad. Furthermore, the increase needs to be compared with the same quarter in the previous year, when orders were already low. Given the weak demand in several key markets, Italian manufacturers are working to seek new opportunities in Countries where the textile industry is still technologically underdeveloped. Marco Salvadè added: “Recently, ACIMIT organized exploratory missions to Turkmenistan and Kyrgyzstan to assess the local textile market and understand the technological needs of its companies.”

GarmentTech Istanbul, Turkey's comprehensive meeting point in the field of garment technologies, will bring together leading garment machinery manufacturers and representatives of world-famous brands. The exhibition, which will host professional visitors and global buyers in Istanbul for 4 days, will offer important opportunities to change the stagnation experienced in the sector in the recent period, to take strong steps towards the future and to bring dynamism to the sector.  

The Exhibition will be held at Istanbul Expo Centre (IFM) between 25-28 June 2025 and presents all technologies used in garment and ready-to-wear production from sewing to cutting, ironing systems to packaging, embroidery to denim.

Ready-to-wear and garment, which is the 3rd most exporting sector in Turkey, is one of the leading sectors with its employment and export revenues. Despite the general stagnation in the Turkish and global economy, the increase in ready-to-wear and garment exports, especially in September, reveals the sector's resilience and competitiveness in international markets. The sector, which exported approximately 1.6 billion dollars in September, reinforces its contribution to the national economy with its success. This is made possible by companies' innovative approaches and their ability to adapt quickly to global market demands. GarmentTech Istanbul Garment, Embroidery Machinery Spare Parts and Sub-Industry Exhibition is organised to ensure the sustainability of this success and to provide a new vision to the companies in the sector.

Flat knitting technology company SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD. of Wakayama, Japan, is participating in the ITMA Asia + CITME 2024 exhibition in Shanghai, China. In line with its exhibition concept at ITMA 2023 and ITMA Asia + CITME 2022 held last year, SHIMA SEIKI continues the concept for this year’s exhibition: “SHIMA SEIKI Reborn".

SHIMA SEIKI Reborn represents a return to origin, for the company and for its products, and a renewal of passion and commitment toward innovation. The concept is manifested in physical form as the long-awaited production version of the SWG-XR® next-generation WHOLEGARMENT® machine, introduced to much acclaim as prototypes at ITMA 2023 in Milan, Italy and ITMA Asia + CITME 2022 exhibits last year.

Of the 5 knitting machines SHIMA SEIKI is exhibiting at its 350 sq. meter booth in Hall 4, Stand F01, 4 are WHOLEGARMENT® knitting machines, 2 of which are the new SWG-XR® machines, shown. 2 other WHOLEGARMENT® knitting machines and 1 prototype computerized flat knitting machine round out the machine exhibit. Approximately 270 knit items are on display as proposals for knitted applications in various fields ranging from fashion to shoes, bags and accessories.

In addition to machine technology, SHIMA SEIKI's computer graphic design system and software are shown with their latest software upgrades that feature significant improvements in knit programming, 3D functions and speed, as well as generative AI functions. Demonstrations are available for a comprehensive fashion tech solutions package based on realistic virtual sampling and supported by various digital solutions and web services.

Based on customer feedback as well as industry and media response at ITMA 2023 and ITMA Asia + CITME 2022, SHIMA SEIKI's exhibit is likely to garner much attention at ITMA Asia + CITME 2024 as well.