From the Sector

The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) sent a letter to Treasury Secretary Scott Bessent, following remarks the Secretary made about the U.S. textile industry at this morning’s White House daily press briefing:

Dear Mr. Secretary:

On behalf of the U.S. textile industry and our 471,000 American workers, we appreciate the Trump administration’s efforts to advance an America First Trade Policy to reshore high-quality industrial jobs by addressing unfair trade practices that have harmed U.S. manufacturers and workers for decades. As you may know, our industry publicly endorsed President Trump’s America First Reciprocal Trade Plan and the White House included our endorsement in its April 3 press release highlighting statements of support for the president’s initiative.

We are writing to request a meeting at your convenience with our top industry leaders. We noted your comments today during the press conference that “President Trump is interested in the jobs of the future, not the jobs of the past. We don't need to necessarily have a booming textile industry where I grew up again, but we do want to have precision manufacturing and bring that back.” Our industry saw your remarks and were disheartened to hear this sentiment, especially since this industry has been noted by President Trump himself on a number of occasions as critical and strategic. The U.S. textile industry was proud to make lifesaving PPE during the first Trump Administration in response to COVID. The U.S. proudly makes over 8,000 different products to the U.S. military alone to ensure we do not have to rely on foreign adversaries to make essential products. This is a strategically important, relevant, and key industry – which is why we were pleased the White House amplified the industry again in its press release on reciprocal tariffs.´

Today we write to underscore the importance of our industry and the jobs it offers to thousands of workers, sustaining communities across the United States. The U.S. textile industry provides much-needed employment in rural areas and has functioned as a springboard for workers out of poverty into good-paying jobs for generations, including in your home state of South Carolina. Last year, the multifaceted U.S. textile supply chain directly employed 471,000 workers and produced shipments of man-made fiber, yarns, fabrics, apparel and non-apparel sewn products valued at $64 billion.

The United States exported $28 billion worth of textile-related goods to global markets in 2024, making it the second largest exporter of textile and apparel products in the world. Most U.S. textile exports go to Canada, Mexico, or other Western Hemisphere countries with which the United States has a free trade agreement for finishing and return to the U.S. as apparel. This vibrant production supply chain with our closest trading partners competes directly against imports from China and other countries in Asia that often deploy unfair, predatory trade practices, such as subsidized production, dumped exports, intellectual property theft, undervalued currency, abhorrent labor abuses, and unsustainable environmental practices.

Our industry proudly remains a world leader in textile innovation with unparalleled breadth and scope of manufacturing capabilities. Over the past 10 years, the U.S. textile industry made $22.3 billion in capital investments in pursuit of the latest innovations related to sustainability and production. This focus on innovation enables the industry to create tens of thousands of products including apparel, industrial textiles, and home furnishings.

With the right policies, the Trump administration can encourage the U.S. textile industry to reinvest in America, preserve and grow our existing workforce, and spur greater production and sales of American-made textiles now and in the future.

We would like to meet at your convenience to discuss the critical nature of the U.S. textile industry and how the Administration can help this key supply chain onshore jobs. Thank you for your consideration of this timely request.

Respectfully,
Kimberly Glas, President and CEO

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, announced the INDA International Trade Handbook, available in the INDA store and free to download for INDA members.

The handbook was written in partnership with the law firm Sandler, Travis & Rosenberg P.A. and represents several months of work compiling U.S. trade and customs policy and compliance information impacting the nonwovens sector. The handbook is a comprehensive, 240-page guide to help you and your business understand and comply with U.S. international trade law.  

Information included in the handbook features active tariffs on goods coming into the U.S. as of April 9, 2025, and tariff rates and classification codes for nonwoven roll goods and finished goods. You can preview the table of contents here.

On 8-9 April 2025, social partners from the Turkish textile industry met in Istanbul to discuss different topics such as the green and digital transition, due diligence and brand responsibility, skills and training in the textile sector, as well as the next steps in their efforts to achieve broader and more effective social dialogue.

In the context of the EU-funded StitchTogether project, which aims at promoting social partnerships in the European Textiles and Clothing Industry in seven countries in the EU and Türkiye, this seminar was also the occasion to draft the Istanbul Declaration: a joint statement to emphasise the social partners’ strong commitment to work together.

The meeting in Türkiye brought together representatives of the Turkish textile industry, including the Turkish employer association (TTSİS), national trade unions (Teksif, Öz İplik İş, DİSK Tekstil), brands representatives, the Ministry of Labour and stakeholders from the International Labour Organisation (ILO) and the Social Labour Convergence Programme, to discuss the future of the industry.

Together, social partners call upon the Government and the European Union to support the upcoming transformation of the textile and clothing industries, technology and skills upgrades, regional development and just transition. The Istanbul Declaration also includes a series of priorities, confirming social partners’ commitment in working together for a more competitive and fair Turkish textile industry.   

Judith Kirton-Darling, IndustriAll Europe's general secretary stated that “There are more than 1 million workers in the textile industry in Türkiye, who are facing many challenges which they have to adapt to. We stand in solidarity with our Turkish partners and recall the fundamental importance of freedom of association and freedom of collective bargaining in both law and practice, essential for the sector’s economic resilience.”

Dirk Vantyghem, EURATEX Director General, stressed that “Turkish companies face important challenges to adapt to a fast changing environment. This requires flexibility and joint efforts from workers and employers alike, to remain competitive. A constructive and open social dialogue is critical in this regard.”

Rieter has stood for pioneering innovation in textile technology for 230 years. Founded in 1795, the company has grown from a trading company to a global technology leader. With a clear focus on automation, digitization and sustainability, Rieter is shaping the future of yarn production and continues to set standards in the industry.

Rieter, a world leader in developing and manufacturing systems for yarn production with staple fibers, is celebrating its 230th anniversary this year – a history characterized by change, innovation and growth.

The Rieter success story began on April 15, 1795, when Johann Jacob Rieter founded the company J.J. Rieter & Cie. in Winterthur, Switzerland. Rieter started as a trading company for exotic spices and cotton, and on April 23, 1795, the first cotton bale had already arrived at the Waaghaus trading house on Marktgasse in Winterthur.

Initially involved in spinning mills and textile manufacturing, Rieter continued to develop over the 19th century and shifted its focus to building industrial machinery. Acquiring the buildings of the former Töss Abbey in Winterthur in 1833 was an important step. In addition to spinning mill machines, the company’s product line also included machines for winding, knitting, and weaving.

In 1891, Rieter converted into a stock company, which was a significant milestone in the company’s history. In the decades that followed, Rieter set new technological standards again and again. For example, the company was the first machine factory in Switzerland with electronic data processing and Rieter set up a modern laboratory for testing materials. It was joined by prototype workshops, a textile laboratory, and a test spinning mill to support further innovation.

Despite economic challenges, Rieter has always used times of crisis as an opportunity to increase its efficiency and hone its strategic focus. Along with its subsidiaries Accotex, Bräcker, Graf, Novibra, Suessen, SSM, and Temco, today Rieter is distinctive and well-known in the market. The company is a leader in spinning mill technology and contributes to sustainability in the textile value chain with state-of-the-art machines, systems, and components.

Rieter’s success is based not only on technological excellence, but above all on the people who drive the company forward. The approximately 4 800 employees worldwide are the company’s greatest asset. With their expertise, innovative spirit, and passion, they set new standards every day and play an active role in shaping Rieter’s future.

From Rieter’s perspective, the future of spinning mills is automated, digital, and intelligent. Research and development activities are being intensified – in both the areas of autonomous transport systems and collaborative robotics, as well as for ESSENTIAL, Rieter’s digital spinning mill platform. The goal is to fully automate the value creation process of spinning mills by 2027. This will enable spinning mills to reduce their yarn manufacturing costs and maximize their returns. Customers can then concentrate fully on their yarn business and rely on Rieter’s technology and know-how for their operations.

With 230 years of experience, strong innovative power, sustainable solutions and a global sales and service organization, Rieter looks to the future with confidence.

The US is EU 5th most important trading partner, with total trade exceeding €9 billion.
American customers enjoy high end fashion items, but also technical textiles coming from Europe. Adding a 20% duty will hamper that relationship.
 
EURATEX Director General Dirk Vantyghem warned against this tariff escalation: "This decision is like going back in time; it will lead to a loose-loose relationship within the global textile industry. EURATEX stands for free but fair trade, based on common rules which are respected by all; the EU and the US should lead by example, and promote high quality and sustainable textile products.”

On the occasion of World Water Day, Jeanologia reaffirms its commitment to dehydrating and detoxifying the textile industry by presenting its Ecological Profit and Loss Account—a pioneering report that quantifies the positive impact of its innovative solutions in terms of water savings and emissions reduction.

The figures for 2024: 20,875,400 cubic meters of polluted water saved and a reduction of 98,4 million kilograms of CO₂ emissions—a contribution equivalent to the annual water consumption of a city the size of Valencia and the carbon capture in a year by a forest of 16,000 hectares, the same size as 22,400 football fields. This means millions of liters of wastewater have been prevented from reaching rivers and seas, and millions of kilograms of CO₂ from polluting the atmosphere.

Water scarcity: the textile industry’s challenge and the urgency to act
The fashion industry, one of the most water-intensive and waste-generating sectors, faces a critical challenge. Each year, it is estimated to use 93 billion cubic meters of water and generate 20% of the world’s wastewater, mostly due to processes like dyeing and garment finishing. This scenario highlights the urgent need for transformation.

The global water crisis demands concrete solutions. Jeanologia has proven that it is possible to produce fashion responsibly, significantly reducing environmental impact without compromising quality, authenticity, creativity, or profitability.

The denim revolution is driven by innovation. Since its founding three decades ago, Jeanologia has developed a integrated ecosystem of technologies that enable zero discharge and minimal water usage. Among its specialized solutions for the denim industry are:

• Laser: A pioneering technology that replaces traditional abrasion methods, eliminating the use of water and harmful chemicals.
• eFlow: Uses nanobubbles to transport chemicals precisely to fabrics, minimizing water usage and ensuring zero discharge.
• Airwash Tech (G2 Indra): Replaces conventional water-based garment washing with air, significantly reducing both water and chemical consumption.
• H2Zero: A closed-loop water recycling system that recovers up to 95% of water used during production.

Jeanologia has implemented these technologies in over 80 countries, working with leading global manufacturers to completely transform how jeans are made. Sustainability in the textile sector is no longer a promise—it’s a measurable reality.

Since its founding, Jeanologia has been on a mission to transform the textile industry into a more ethical, sustainable, and efficient model. The company works closely with brands, retailers, and suppliers on this transformative journey, offering disruptive technologies, innovative software, and a new operational model. Their groundbreaking solutions, including laser technology, G2 ozone, Dancing Box, e-flow, H2Zero, and ColorBox, have redefined garment design and finishing standards, eliminating polluting processes and significantly reducing the use of water, energy, and chemicals. Thanks to these advancements, Jeanologia has saved millions of liters of water and eliminated harmful substances, turning its vision of a truly sustainable textile industry into reality.

In 2025, Jeanologia celebrates its 30th anniversary, marking a legacy of three decades of sustainable innovation. From the introduction of its laser technology in 1999, which revolutionized denim finishing, to its current challenge of implementing a revolutionary sustainable garment dyeing process, the Spanish company has pioneered solutions that not only benefit the environment but also optimize operational costs. Looking ahead, Jeanologia remains committed to creating an eco-efficient and ethical textile future, encouraging all industry stakeholders to join its Mission Zero initiative: dehydrate and detoxify the textile industry. No more water and toxic chemicals used in garment finishing around the world.

The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO), representing the full spectrum of U.S. textiles from fiber to finished sewn products, issued the following statement March, 7 from President and CEO Kim Glas regarding President Donald Trump’s one-month suspension of tariffs for qualifying imports under the U.S.-Mexico-Canada Agreement (USMCA):

“We sincerely thank President Trump for pausing the 25 percent penalty tariffs on qualifying imports from Mexico and Canada under the USMCA trade deal for one month, while all parties continue to negotiate a deal to address his administration’s concerns over illegal immigration and fentanyl trafficking. We urge an expeditious resolution for all the parties to ensure the vitality of the U.S. textile industry.

“Under USMCA, the U.S. textile and apparel industry has formed a vital coproduction chain with Mexico and Canada that supports 1.6 million workers and generates $20 billion in two-way trade. It is by far the largest export region for American textile producers, representing $12.5 billion in combined U.S. exports – 53 percent of our total annual exports. U.S. textile inputs routinely come back as finished products to the United States under the trade agreement.

“As such, imposing tariffs on imported goods that comply with the USMCA would only serve to harm a key U.S. manufacturing sector that contributes significantly to the U.S. economy and workforce. It would also adversely impact two key trading partners and a North American coproduction chain that competes directly with China and Asia. In addition, it would further undermine the U.S. industry’s ability to make critical products for the U.S. military if this critical production chain were harmed.

“We appreciate President Trump’s delay in these tariffs and urge a more measured approach as well as a negotiated solution that at the very least exempts qualifying USMCA goods from penalty tariffs and closes the de minimis loophole once and for all.

“We look forward to working with President Trump and his administration on his trade agenda aimed at bringing jobs back to the U.S. and will continue to provide input on a plan to build a stronger, more vibrant domestic supply chain.”

The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO), representing the full spectrum of U.S. textiles from fiber to finished sewn products, issued the following statement today from President and CEO Kim Glas regarding the Trump administration’s notices imposing 25 percent tariffs on imports from Mexico and Canada and additional 10 percent tariffs on China.

Statement by NCTO President and CEO Kim Glas:

“The newly imposed tariffs on imports from Mexico and Canada threaten a crucial textile and apparel coproduction chain with our two valued trade partners—one that sustains nearly 500,000 American jobs and a total of 1.6 million jobs across North America.  Destabilizing this production chain coupled with the de minimis loophole will only exacerbate migration and the fentanyl crisis.  We appreciate that President Trump has drawn much needed attention to these significant problems, but we believe there is another way that achieves critical objectives that grow U.S. jobs, stabilizes the Western Hemisphere, and closes dangerous tariff loopholes that are hurting us all.  We want to work with the President to find solutions that work to meet all these objectives.

“The U.S. textile industry ships $12.3 billion, or 53 percent, of its total global textile exports to Mexico and Canada and those component materials often come back as finished products to the United States under the United States-Mexico-Canada Agreement (USMCA). This coproduction chain under USMCA represents $20 billion in two-way trade and spurs U.S. investment in the region as well as at home.

“Equally as important, it serves as an alternative and counterweight to the China-led, Asia- based production platform that competes based on illegal tactics, such as the used of forced labor, subsidies and counterfeits, and has largely come to dominate global trade.

“For these reasons, we are extremely concerned that the imposition of penalty tariffs on imports from our critical USMCA partners will only serve to benefit China and other Asian countries and harm the U.S. textile industry, which has lost 27 plants in the past 20 months.

“Separately, we welcome President Trump’s plan to impose an additional10 percent penalty tariff on imports from China, bringing the total of new tariffs on China to 20 percent this year. In fact, we encourage even higher penalty tariffs on China and recommend that these penalty duties be specifically targeted to finished apparel and textile imports.

“In addition, we are calling on President Trump to close the de minimis loophole to all commercial shipments from China, Mexico and Canada, and more importantly from all countries. This loophole facilitates 4 million shipments a day to the United States that often hide illegal and unethically made products, unsafe goods and illicit fentanyl and other narcotics to our doorsteps.

“Raising tariffs on countries without closing this destructive loophole will only serve to drive more shipments to the duty-free de minimis loophole. Incentivizing greater use of de minimis will further harm U.S. manufacturers and exacerbate the fentanyl crisis, because this loophole will continue to provide a workaround for importers of consumer products and drug cartels alike who are seeking to avoid punitive trade enforcement.”

“We look forward to continuing to work with the Trump administration on these important trade policies that have widespread implications for the U.S. textile industry and those of our free trade partners. This is a pivotal moment for the domestic textile industry, and we believe the right policies will preserve and bolster this vital manufacturing base and spur more job creation and investment.”

The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO), National Chamber of the Textile Industry (CANAINTEX), and Canadian Textile Industry Association (CTIA) issued a joint statement urging President Donald Trump to reach a deal with Mexico and Canada to avoid imposing 25 percent tariffs on imports from these countries and to close the de minimis loophole immediately.

“All three of our countries are partners in a vital textile and apparel coproduction chain that generates $20 billion in two-way trade and helps support over 1.6 million jobs under the United States-Mexico-Canada Agreement (USMCA) — a trade deal that was negotiated during President Trump’s first term in office,” the associations said.

The U.S. textile industry ships $12.3 billion, or 53 percent, of its total global textile exports to Mexico and Canada. Those inputs come back as finished products to the United States under the USMCA.

Mexico exports $9 billion in textile and apparel to the United States. Mexico is the 4th largest exporter of textiles and the 6th largest exporter of apparel to the United States.

Canada exports approximately $1.8 billion in textiles and apparel to the United States and Mexico, with the United States being the destination for 64 percent of its total global textile export, including high-quality flame-resistant materials and medical equipment including PPE.

“While we fully support President Trump’s efforts to stem illegal migration and to address the fentanyl crisis as quickly as possible, we urge the administration to refrain from imposing penalty tariffs on imports from USMCA partners. We are focused on ensuring a normalized trading relationship between our countries,” said NCTO President and CEO Kim Glas. “Imposing penalty tariffs on imports from critical U.S. free trade agreement (FTA) partners will only serve to benefit China and other Asian countries that don’t play by the rules and to harm the U.S. textile industry and manufacturers in our Western Hemisphere supply chains.”

“As part of any deal with Mexico, Canada—and China—we also call on the Trump administration to end the de minimis tariff exemption immediately for imports from all countries. This loophole in U.S. trade law, which allows imports valued at $800 or less to enter the United States duty-free hurts our textile and apparel industries, rewards countries like China, and helps facilitate the flow of illegal and toxic products, such as fentanyl and fentanyl precursors into the U.S. market,” Glas added.

“Despite steps taken by our countries to prevent the importation of goods that are undervalued, made with forced labor or transshipped, we have seen firsthand how the Asian market has gained an unfair advantage through predatory trade practices, displacing companies and workers in our industries and undermining our critical coproduction chain,” said Rafael Zaga Saba President of CANAINTEX.

“Canada is seeking to preserve our strong coproduction chain with Mexico and the United States which spurs investment, trade and employment in our three countries,” said Jeff Ayoub, Chairman of the Board of CTIA. “These additional tariffs would harm our industries and workers, and we urge President Trump stop these expected tariffs from being imposed.”

“We look forward to working closely with the Trump administration and continuing to educate officials about the adverse impact of penalty tariffs on imports from Western Hemisphere countries and de minimis on our industries and workers, while highlighting the critical nature of our strong coproduction chain, which contributes to our overall investment, job growth, and economic stability,” the associations jointly added.

NCTO is a Washington, DC-based trade association that represents domestic textile manufacturers.

• U.S. employment in the textile and apparel supply chain was 501,755 in 2023.
• The value of shipments for U.S. textiles and apparel was $64.8 billion in 2023.
• U.S. exports of fiber, textiles and apparel were $29.7 billion in 2023.
• Capital expenditures for textiles and apparel production totaled $2.27 billion in 2021, the last year for which data is available.

CANAINTEX is a Mexico City-based trade association representing Mexican textile producers.

• The textile industry in Mexico provides over 1.1 million jobs.
• Mexican textile exports are projected to reach 9 billion USD in 2024.
• Mexico is the 4th largest exporter of textiles and the 6th largest exporter of apparel to the United States.
• One out of every three pairs of pants sold in the U.S. is made in Mexico.
• With 36% domestic content in its exports, the textile industry generates the highest value-added of any manufacturing sector in the country.

CTIA represents domestic textile manufacturers across Canada, advocating for policies that support innovation, sustainability, and growth in the sector.

• The Canadian textile industry employs approximately 30,000 textile and apparel workers.
• The total value of shipments for Canadian textiles and apparel was approximately C$7.5 billion in 2023.
• Canada exported approximately US$2.66 billion in textiles in 2023, with 64% (US$1.71 billion) going to the United States.

The Lenzing Group, a leading supplier of regenerated cellulose fibers for the textile and nonwovens industries, welcomes the European Commission’s Clean Industrial Deal, which aims to pave the way for a sustainable, climate-neutral and competitive industry. Commission President Ursula von der Leyen discussed the initiative on Wednesday, February 26, 2025, together with 400 business leaders, including the CEO of the Lenzing Group, Rohit Aggarwal, in Antwerp (Belgium). The industry is calling on EU heads of state and government to take urgent measures in all EU member states without delay ahead of the upcoming European Council meeting in March.

“International trade tensions, volatile energy markets, and the need to decarbonise industries demand urgent collective action. We must continue to support Europe’s green leadership and ensure that those investing in sustainability are incentivised. We must act now, work together and translate ambition into tangible results”, emphasizes Rohit Aggarwal, CEO of Lenzing Group. “The Clean Industrial Deal is an important initiative for Europe’s industrial and sustainable future. It will strengthen Europe’s net-zero industry, expand green technology manufacturing, and enhance industrial competitiveness.”

One important aspect is access to affordable and clean energy, which is crucial for the global position and competitiveness of the industry.

“We appreciate the Commission President taking the time to join us today in Antwerp to present the Clean Industrial Deal. Nine out of ten calls of the Antwerp Declaration have been addressed. We need to transform Europe’s ambition ‘to be’, into a determination ‘to do’. Every day, Europe is falling behind its goals, and is losing quality jobs for our current and future generations of workers. In the turbulent times we are in we need bold action from the European Leadership,” said Ilham Kadri, President of the European Chemical Industry Council, Cefic.

Europe’s industries are facing historical challenges: declining demand, stalled investments, reduced capacity, and EU gas prices at 4 to 5 times higher than its competitors. Between 2023 and 2024, Europe’s manufacturing output – a sector employing over 31 million people – dropped another 2.6 percent. While for the chemicals industry – the industry of industries – Cefic’s recent study emphasised the severity, with over 11 million tons of capacity announced to be closed between 2023 and 2024, affecting 21 major sites.

To overcome these challenges, back in February 2024, 73 business leaders presented the Antwerp Declaration to Commission President, Ursula von der Leyen and former Belgian Prime Minister Alexander De Croo. The Antwerp Declaration lays out 10 concrete actions to restore the business case for investments, to implement Europe’s sustainability ambitions and safeguard quality jobs in Europe. It is now signed by over 1,300 signatories.

“Reading the Clean Industrial Deal, we need the Commission to focus, prioritise the three key actions that improve our situation already this year and put all power, boldness and bravery in the European Commission behind these. And give us a realistic planning for the remaining actions. When we say actions, we mean action, not strategies, policies or plans. Leave no stone unturned and break all taboos. We need the situation to change.” Marco Mensink, Cefic Director General.

“Cefic calls on all new EU initiatives to be evaluated against the following criteria: Do they keep Europe safe and independent, reduce energy prices, ease the administrative burden on companies, attract investments to Europe, create markets for sustainable products, and safeguard quality jobs in Europe? If the answer to any of these questions is no, EU policymakers should reconsider and revise the proposal accordingly.”