From the Sector

At the forthcoming ITMA Asia + CITME exhibition in Singapore, specialists from a 20-strong delegation of British Textile Machinery Association (BTMA) companies will be on hand to discuss some of the highly advanced industries they are now actively supporting.

The manufacture of medical sutures, for example, is a very specialised process and because these items are implanted directly into the human body, every stage of production is tightly controlled to ensure safety, sterility and reliable performance.

Absorbable sutures are usually made from polymers that degrade safely within the body, such as polyglycolic acid, polylactic acid or polydioxanone, while non-absorbable sutures use durable materials like nylon, polypropylene, polyester, silk or even stainless steel. All of these must be of medical grade and fully biocompatible.

The UK’s Fibre Extrusion Technology (FET) is a world leader in both the fibre selection and production technologies behind this industry and in Singapore will highlight a groundbreaking new parallel technology for the medical sector based on supercritical CO2. Further developments in the field of automation and control in advanced fibre production will be highlighted by BTMA members including Autofoam, James Heal, Roaches, Strayfield, Verivide and Wira Instrumentation.

AFP and ATL
From the micro to the macro, sophisticated aerospace technologies such as automated fibre placement (AFP) and automated tape laying (ATL) meanwhile involve the precise placement of carbon fibre tapes or tows on a mould surface, which are then cured to form lightweight yet strong components. 
AFP allows for complex geometries by steering individual tows, making it ideal for fuselage sections, wing skins and other curved structures. ATL, on the other hand, is more efficient for larger, flatter surfaces such as wing covers or stabilisers, where wider tapes can be laid down at high speed with minimal gaps or overlaps. Together, these technologies significantly reduce material waste, improve repeatability and deliver structural performance beyond what traditional hand lay-up methods can achieve.

The UK’s Cygnet Texkimp has developed a new technology to greatly assist this industry which will be unveiled in Singapore.

Collaboration
“High value industries such as aerospace, defence, renewable energy, automotive and the medical sector are areas of high growth and opportunity and an important factor underpinning the success of our companies here is the strong collaboration between industry and the many universities and institutes in the UK,” says BTMA CEO Jason Kent. “Machine builders can also be important in driving material developments as well as technologies.”

UHMWPE
A good example of this is the flexible new process for manufacturing ultra high molecular weight polyethylene (UHMWPE) that will be introduced in Singapore by FET.

UHMWPE is prized in many industries due to its extraordinary properties, being for example, ten times stronger than steel by weight. It is increasingly used in medical implants, but the current systems for manufacturing it are on a huge scale, with very complex processing routes.

This restricts the opportunity for new product development – a disadvantage that is fully addressed with FET’s series lab and small scale gel spinning system, which is already industrialised.

“We have supplied many extrusion systems to the biomedical market and in exploring what else we could do for the same customers it became clear that there was a need for smaller quantities of UHMWPE fibres in bespoke sizes.” explains FET Managing Director Richard Slack. “We believe our introduction of a patented batch system for solvent extraction exploiting supercritical CO2 is a game changer.”

Early stage development
Cygnet Texkimp has meanwhile just introduced a next-generation, production-scale prepreg tape slitting machine at its UK Innovation Centre in Northwich.

This enables organisations to trial the slitting of continuous thermoset, thermoplastic and ceramic prepreg tapes for AFP and AFL processes in real-world conditions using their own materials or those produced on Cygnet Texkimp’s in-house R&D prepreg machines on the machine. The technology can slit tapes at speeds of up to 60 metres per minute, subject to the input material.

“We’re pleased to be able to offer partners the opportunity to engage with us at an early stage in process development, to test out their concepts, explore machine parameters, assess output quality and validate performance with support from our expert team,” says Graeme Jones, wide web product director at Cygnet Texkimp.

Splicing portfolio
Also providing back up services to the aerospace industry is Airbond, with splicing technologies which ensure resource efficiency in the processing of extremely expensive carbon and aramid fibres. Pneumatic yarn splicing is a process established in the textile industry for joining yarns and works by intermingling individual filaments closely together, to make joint which are stronger and flatter than knots.

“We are continuing to find new partners in the wind turbine, hydrogen and aerospace industries and are doing a lot of developmental work with research institutes and universities,” says technical director Carwyn Webb. “This is leading to us expanding our portfolio and we are currently working on systems for carbon tape splicing, for example, as well as an automated system for full weaving beams.”

Further developments for the technical textiles and composites sectors will be showcased by BTMA members including Garnett Controls, Roaches International, Slack & Parr and Tatham.

Spirit of openness
“Many BTMA members are currently developing new technologies, either in-house or increasingly through joint projects, and we have much to reveal in Singapore,” says Jason Kent in conclusion. “There’s a new spirit of openness and adventurous interaction in the UK right now – especially in the fields of advanced fibres and technical textiles – which is very encouraging for the future.”

Teijin Carbon announced the NCAMP (National Center for Advanced Materials Performance) qualification of its Tenax™ IMS65 E23 24K non-crimp fabrics (NCF) and woven unidirectional (UD) materials, in conjunction with the Syensqo PRISM® EP2400 epoxy resin system. This milestone marks the first NCAMP qualification of dry carbon reinforcements using vacuum assisted resin transfer molding (VARTM) as a standalone and process-separable infusion route.

The Teijin Carbon materials are formally qualified under material specification NMS 241 and process specification NPS 82401 and are accompanied by a publicly available NCAMP material property data report. The NCAMP program is sponsored by the U.S. Federal Aviation Administration.

The NCAMP database supports proof of equivalence across various types of infusion equipment and techniques, opening the door for broader aerospace adoption of out-of-autoclave (OoA) composite manufacturing.

Partnership with Mississippi State University Enhances Implementation
To support practical implementation of the qualified system and part development, Teijin Carbon and Syensqo have partnered with Mississippi State University’s Advanced Composites Institute (MSU-ACI) in Starkville. With its advanced VARTM capabilities and scalable tooling strategies, MSU-ACI plays a key role in validating process robustness and material consistency. The institute helps give manufacturers confidence that they can achieve aerospace-grade quality with accessible, cost-effective production methods.

This collaboration reflects Teijin Carbons’s commitment to facilitating the adoption of infusion technologies by reducing learning curves and enabling faster design-to-certification pathways through NCAMP-qualified data.

Material Benefits for Structural Aerospace Applications
The newly qualified Tenax™ non-crimp facric based on IMS65 E23 24K combined with the Syensqo PRISM® EP2400 epoxy resin system deliver:

• Out-of-autoclave processing with autoclave-comparable mechanical performance
• High fiber volume with near-zero void content
• Long out-life dry preforms — ideal for large, complex components
• Global availability of all components by sea, land, or air
• Accelerated FAA certification with publicly available B-basis allowables

This qualification offers aerospace OEMs and tier suppliers a scalable and robust alternative to traditional prepreg processing. It is suitable for small to extra-large primary or secondary structures as well as integrated parts such as control surfaces, access panels, fairings, in commercial and defense platforms. This processing method can contribute to efficient and resource-conscious manufacturing aligned with the aerospace industry's sustainability goals.

Teijin Carbon and Syensqo will continue to collaborate under the partnership with Mississippi State University to provide the world with advanced composite material solutions that can shape a more efficient, resilient, and sustainable future for aerospace.

A result of Eastman’s recently announced strategic partnership with Huafon Chemical, the new filament yarn features even higher tenacity, making it the perfect solution for premium lightweight fabrics. 

On August 13, Eastman and Huafon Chemical jointly announced a formal strategic partnership to establish a joint facility to produce cellulose acetate yarn. The facility will be dedicated to localized production and product innovation of Eastman Naia™ cellulose acetate filament yarns in China. This collaboration demonstrates Eastman’s long-term commitment to the Chinese market and further deepens its market presence in China by enabling a more agile supply chain response to meet the market demand for high-quality, innovative, and sustainable textile materials in the region.

With the vision to make sustainable textiles accessible to all, the Eastman Naia™ portfolio offers responsibly sourced, biobased cellulosic fibers and yarns. These eco-friendly options empower mills, designers, and brands to create textiles that do not compromise on comfort, quality, or appearance. 

Naia™ acetate filament yarn is widely recognized and used by both high-end luxury and high-street fashion brands in China and around the world. It is favored for ready-to-wear fashion and linings because of its luxurious silky hand feel, beautiful drape, and rich luster. Beyond aesthetics, Naia™ delivers superior comfort, durability, and ease of care. 

Eastman has developed a robust network of mills and fabric trading partners in China, collaboratively driving innovation to develop some of the most advanced acetate-based fabrics in the global textile market today.

Demand for recycled yarn is growing. And the number of TRUECYCLED installations in India is growing too! More and more future-facing companies are driving progress toward a more sustainable textiles industry by producing high-quality yarn from waste through specialized equipment and process know-how from Trützschler. The TRUECYCLED installations in India join a growing group of companies around the globe. This includes Trützschler customers in Türkiye as well as across Europe. 

TRUECYCLED is Trützschler’s complete solution for state-of-the-art recycling of pre-consumer and postconsumer textile waste. It encompasses all process steps – from cutting and tearing textile waste through to carding and drawing secondary fibers. Trützschler’s technological expertise enables partner companies to produce recycled yarns with the best possible quality from hard textile waste. In India, USHA YARN was awarded as the first TRUECYCLED reference customer in 2023. Now ten more reference customers are celebrated. TRUECYCLED is gaining traction in India, where demand for recycled yarn is growing rapidly. 
 
The TRUECYCLED pioneers in India are taking action to promote more sustainable, circular value chains in the textile industry. Their yarns contain a substantial amount of textile hard waste, manufactured in a line of Trützschler machinery configured specifically for recycling. All use the T-BLEND blow room line and Trützschler carding machines. 
 

• Anangoor Textile Mills (based in Kangayam): Produces 30 tons of blended open-end yarn (Ne 20 to Ne 40) per day, using more than 50 percent raw materials from pre-consumer waste. 
• Eco spin yarn (based in Derabassi): Specialized in 100 percent cotton and poly-cotton blended yarn. This company produces 18 tons of recycled yarn (Ne 10 to Ne 40) per day. It mainly uses 100 percent pre-consumer waste for cotton and up to 20 percent rPET fibers for poly-cotton blends. 
• Fabtech International Hosieries (based in Tirupur): Manufactures 8 tons of blended open-end yarn (Ne 20 to Ne 40) per day, using more than 50 percent raw materials from pre-consumer waste. 
• KS Spinning Mills (based in Panipat): Specializing in cotton and poly-cotton blended yarns with a capacity of 36 tons per day, this company produces a wide range of recycled open-end yarns from Ne 1 to Ne 40. For cotton yarn, the company uses 100 percent raw materials from preconsumer waste. Poly-cotton blended yarns are produced with a blend of up to 20 percent recycled polyester and up to 80 percent pre-consumer waste. 
• Maatrishakti Cotspin (based in Panipat): An open-end yarn expert, manufacturing 18 tons of cotton and poly-cotton blends per day (Ne 10 to Ne 40), using 70 to 80 percent raw materials from pre-consumer waste. 
• Oasis Textiles (based in Derabassi): Each day, this producer makes 36 tons of recycled yarn – using more than 70 percent raw material from pre-consumer waste (Ne 10 to Ne 40). 
• Shreeji Cotfab (based in Neemarana): Produces 18 tons per day of open-end yarn made from cotton and poly-cotton blends (Ne 10 to Ne 30), primarily using more than 70 percent of recycled materials. 
• Shri Pachaiamman Spinners (based in Coimbatore): Turns more than 50 percent preconsumer waste into hosiery yarn (Ne 10 to 30), producing 13 tons per day and using 100 percent recycled materials. 
• Sri Velayudhaswamy Spinning Mills (based in Dindigul): This customer produces 14 tons of recycled yarn (Ne 20 to Ne 40) per day from a blend of recycled cotton and polyester, using more than 50 percent pre-consumer waste. 
• Tirumalai Textiles (based in Coimbatore): Using more than 50 percent of pre-consumer waste, this manufacturer produces 17.5 tons of open-end yarn (Ne 10 to Ne 30) per day for weaving and hosiery applications. 

The full programme for the 93rd Textile Institute World Conference (TIWC 2025) has been announced, with over 100 presentations to be delivered in parellel sessions at the event, which takes place from October 7-10 at the Porto Palácio Hotel and Spa in Porto, Portugal.

In a comprehensive and international programme, the close collaboration between researchers on separate continents will be highlighted, with a major focus on the further development of technologies and practices assisting in the need for advanced fibre-to-fibre recycling as a means of accelerating a circular textiles economy.

Research teams working continents apart are arriving at strikingly similar solutions – circularity, digital integration, cleaner chemistry and human-centred reform are all critical. These interlocking themes will define this year’s conference.

Circularity will be one of the most prominent concepts underpinning the programme and researchers from Manchester in the UK, for example, will share their evaluation of end-of-life garments and show how almost half of those currently sent to waste could be channelled into advanced recycling. 

From Chemnitz in Germany, new knitting technology will be presented that allows higher proportions of recycled content in cotton fabrics while retaining softness and durability. 

Case studies from Bangladesh and Pakistan will meanwhile explore how local enterprises are already adopting closed-loop systems and circular business innovations, with recycled yarns reaching the supply chains of major global brands. 

Taken together, the many presentations addressing circularity will demonstrate how waste is beginning to shift from a burden to a new raw material, while also pointing to the infrastructure and policies that will be needed to make such systems commercially viable.

Alongside this, the conference will also highlight the revolution now taking place in digitalisation. 

Far from being a niche domain of design software, digital tools are becoming the backbone of sustainability itself. Work will be presented on blockchain, digital product passports and RFID systems that trace garments throughout their lifecycle, strengthening consumer trust and helping businesses meet new regulatory requirements. 

New methods of digital textile printing and open-source knitting software will also be discussed, offering designers the ability to localise production and work with greater creative agency.  

The message of these projects is clear – digitalisation is not an add-on to sustainability but one of its primary enablers.

Perhaps most significant at TWIC 2025 will be the attention given to the human dimension of sustainability. 

In Sri Lanka, small and medium-sized apparel manufacturers will be shown to face critical health and safety risks as climate change brings rising temperatures, air pollution and extreme weather. A new assessment tool will be introduced which is helping firms build resilience and protect workers. 

The Sustainable Fibre Alliance will also demonstrate how cashmere herders, traders and processors in Mongolia are being engaged in a collective effort to reduce rangeland degradation and safeguard livelihoods. 

UK fashion educators will further share approaches to preparing the next generation to embrace circular models and ethical consumerism, equipping future designers to balance profit with responsibility. At the consumer end, new research will reveal misalignments between brand recommendations for garment care and the behaviour actually adopted by wearers, showing that communication must evolve. 

“These examples will remind delegates that technology and recycling alone cannot deliver sustainability without parallel shifts in culture, education and policy,” says Textile Institute CEO Stephanie Dick. “The global nature of the challenges facing textiles is already widely acknowledged and climate change, waste, toxic chemicals, unsafe labour practices and consumer overconsumption have combined to make fashion and textiles one of the world’s most scrutinised industries. What will emerge from this conference, however, is an unmistakable sense of convergence and solid progress.”

Kraig Biocraft Laboratories Inc., a leader in spider silk technology, announces that its second production rearing center in Southeast Asia is now fully operational.

With two active production facilities, the Company has established parallel operations designed to ensure continuous rearing cycles of its specialized recombinant spider silk silkworms. This dual-site capacity increases resilience and scalability, providing greater consistency in material output as Kraig Labs advances its commercialization strategy.

Teams are now active at both rearing centers, working with the company’s established parental lines for BAM-1 production hybrids, as well as three additional parental lines introduced earlier this summer. These new genetic lines represent a significant expansion of Kraig Labs’ breeding program and are expected to further enhance production efficiencies.

These facilities are designed to create efficient redundancy to avoid bottlenecks the company experienced in the past. This is a major leap forward in terms of creating sustained production.

“Becoming fully operational at our second rearing center is a milestone that strengthens the foundation of our spider silk production platform,” said Kim Thompson, Kraig Labs founder and CEO. “Having parallel operations allows us to maintain continuous cycles of rearing, diversify our breeding program, and accelerate the development of next-generation hybrids. This expanded capacity is essential as we push forward in scaling production and bringing our recombinant spider silk to market.”

The opening of this second rearing facility reflects Kraig Labs’ ongoing commitment to building a robust, reliable, and scalable spider silk production system in Southeast Asia, positioning the company to meet growing demand from diverse markets and industries.

The Lenzing Group, a provider of regenerated cellulose fibers for the textile and nonwoven industries, expands its photovoltaic capacities at its Lenzing site. Together with VERBUND, a new PV plant with a capacity of 1.3 megawatts peak (MWp) has been commissioned, increasing the total capacity of the PV plant park to 8.3 MWp. Lenzing is thereby investing in a stable and diversified energy supply and is also making an active contribution to the energy transition. VERBUND is accompanying Lenzing on its path to energy independence and, as a partner, is providing significant support for the expansion of renewable energies. 
 
In recent years, Lenzing has continuously invested in the expansion of renewable electricity and energy sources. In addition to its PV plant park, the company operates numerous other sustainable energy projects, including three small hydropower plants with a total output of 2.3 MW. In addition, several supply contracts have been concluded in recent years, for example with WLK energy for the purchase of around 13 MW of wind energy, and with green electricity producers Enery and Energie Steiermark to finance a photovoltaic plant with a capacity of 5.5 MWp in the district of Deutschlandsberg. 
 
“To ensure our long-term competitiveness, we are focusing on a sustainable energy mix of biomass, photovoltaics, wind energy, and hydropower. Investments in renewable energies and production that is as energy autonomous as possible are central components of our strategy. Political support – for example, through electricity price subsidies – is equally essential in order to achieve our ambitious sustainability and climate goals,” explains Christian Skilich, member of the Lenzing Group Executive Management. 
 
Martin Wagner, Managing Director of VERBUND Energy4Business, emphasizes the importance of this strategic cooperation: “The partnership with Lenzing is an important step for us toward a sustainable energy future. Together, we are not only shaping energy independence of companies, but also actively contributing to the energy transition. The new photovoltaic system is further proof that we are driving forward the transformation of the energy market through cooperation. VERBUND remains a reliable partner in supporting companies such as Lenzing on their path to a more sustainable future.” 
 
Lenzing is thus also steadily moving closer to its net-zero target. The group updated their climate targets for 2024 to align its commitment to climate protection with the goals of the Paris Agreement to limit global temperature rise to 1.5 degrees Celsius. The Science Based Targets Initiative (SBTi), the leading authority on climate-related target setting, reviewed and confirmed the target increase. Lenzing is the only producer of regenerated cellulose fibers with a scientifically confirmed net-zero target.

Around the world, used textiles are still rarely recycled and pile up into huge mountains of waste. A recent study by the Boston Consulting Group (BCG) drew attention to this problem. However, the low recycling rate is also due to the fact that only a small percentage of used textiles are actually suitable for recycling into high-quality materials and for demanding applications. The German Institutes of Textile and Fiber Research Denkendorf (DITF) are addressing this problem with their research. Europe's largest textile research center has launched two research projects with a total project volume of over 4.2 million euros.

To promote the recycling of high-performance fibers such as carbon and glass fibers, the DITF will establish a center for the development of high-performance fiber composite structures based on recycled high-performance fibers (HiPerReF) over the next two years. There, scientists are developing a complete process chain for the industrial-scale production of highly oriented semi-finished products from recycled carbon and glass fibers. In order to achieve maximum performance in the component, the interaction of all machines and equipment is being optimized to produce commercially available semi-finished products such as prepreg and non-porous composite plastics with a fiber volume fraction of over 45 percent.

The CYCLOTEXUM project focuses on recycling classic textile waste into high-quality yarns. The aim is to intelligently combine existing mechanical, physical, and chemical process steps so that fine, uniform yarns can be produced from secondary raw materials. The Material Flow and Cost Accounting (MFCA) developed at the DITF makes it possible to review all technological developments for economic efficiency and sustainability.

The research work of the two centers provides the national and global textile industry with effective tools and solutions for an effective textile circular economy.

Eastman announced a formal strategic partnership with Huafon Chemical to establish a joint facility to produce cellulose acetate yarn. The facility will be dedicated to localized production and product innovation of Eastman Naia™ cellulose acetate filament yarns in China.

“China is the world’s largest textile supply chain hub and a frontier for product and technology innovation,” said Ruth Farrell, general manager of Eastman’s textiles business. “This strategic partnership will provide us with greater capacity and further enhance the innovation and product development capabilities of Naia™ yarn while enabling Eastman to fulfill its brand promise of making sustainable textiles accessible to all.”   

This collaboration demonstrates Eastman’s long-term commitment to the Chinese market and further deepens its market presence in China by enabling a more agile supply chain response to meet the market demand for high-quality, innovative and sustainable textile materials in the region.  

“Through cooperation with Eastman, we look forward to combining local advantages with international resources to achieve a fully localized chain — from technological innovation, product development and production to service — and jointly promoting the sustainable development of the textiles industry,” said Congdeng Yang, director of the Huafon-Eastman collaboration program.

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, recently attended the 2025 NCSL Legislative Summit hosted in Boston, Massachusetts. Wes Fisher, Director of Government Affairs, and Kevin Conroy, Senior Manager of Government Affairs, connected with hundreds of state legislators, their staff, international delegates, and many who visited INDA’s booth amongst the thousands of attendees.

Attendees were eager to learn more about flushability, the California Collection Study, the ins and outs of the nonwovens industry, the federal WIPPES Act, and state legislation on wipes. Wes and Kevin provided hands-on demonstrations and educational discussions to help policymakers understand how nonwoven products are made, used, and regulated — and the importance of accurate wipes labeling for consumers and the environment. This year marked the second time in recent years that INDA has exhibited at the event.

“Having a booth at the 2025 NCSL Legislative Summit allowed us to engage directly with state legislators, policy stakeholders, and many of the thousands of attendees on wipes labeling, the WIPPES Act, and other key issues shaping the nonwovens industry today,” said Wes Fisher. “The meaningful conversations and hands-on product demonstrations showcased the essential role nonwoven fabrics play in everyday life, from consumer households to critical industrial applications.”

The annual NCSL Legislative Summit hosts one of the nation's largest and most influential gatherings of state legislators, staff, corporations, government agencies, and trade associations. State and national media publications cover the event, disseminating news and stories across the country.